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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ต.ค. 2022
- Thanks to The Ridge Wallet for sponsoring today’s video! Check out www.ridge.com/DONUTMEDIA & use code DONUTMEDIA for 10% off + FREE worldwide shipping.
Huge thanks to everyone who helped us become functional 3D printer owners:
Bob and I Like To Make Stuff -- / iliketomakestuff
MatterHackers -- / matterhackers
Adnan and Moonshot 3D -- moonshot3d.com/
HERE IN MY GARAGE…
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Milwaukee 48-59-1880 M18 REDLITHIUM HIGH OUTPUT XC 8 Ah Lithium-Ion Battery and M18 /M12 Charger Kit
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Barrow 52 in. Brown Large Rectangle Wood Coffee Table with Lift Top
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Title: 300,000$. Literally 2 seconds in: 250,000$.
it fits better i guess
Eh factor in the cost of the engineer running the thing
@@eddie_23 Yeah, I realize that's why they do it, but calling your own title out for lying 2 seconds in is still pretty funny.
inflation 😅
Well, it depreciated in value that fast
One thing to watch out for is the low temperature resistance of PLA if people wanna print for automotive use, I've had parts deform within minutes in summer. Stick to ABS (If not exposed to UV), PETG, ASA, PA12 or PP if you can get it to print 👌
Given that most interior car parts are made of PP, I'd probably print out of it
They shoulda collaborated with you instead! ;)
Glad to see Angus helping clarify some of the information in this video. Keep up the good work my dude
@@dotJata Totally agree!
So weird to see these 2 worlds come together
Massive props to Bob for coming up to an uncalibrated printer he's never used and actually producing something useful within a few hours. I've been designing, printing and selling 3D printed parts for over 5 years now. "So the printer just failed... Sometimes it happens" has got to be the understatement of the year. 3D printers are finicky af even with the best processes in place.
Edit: Also, that tan PEEK material he's talking about in the SLS segment, is about $0.60 *per gram*, so not exactly cheap. PLA plastic as used in the FDM desktop printer is closer to 0.02$/g.
All metal high temp hotend + good heated bed + cheap enclosure you can print PEEK as well. Filament is VERY expensive though
i get failed prints, but never at the level or frequency I see others get. Perhaps my corner of the house is just 'better' for printing? Even my polycarbonate prints nearly all the time without issue.
@@elitewolverine I'm with you. Every failed print has a reason for failure, it's just a game of tracking down and eliminating those bugs.
@@sp0764 Yup. I took less than 2hrs to get my ender 5 plus dialed in, and then I never touched it for like 7 months in terms of tweaking. I simply made sure the bed was dust free, hit print, and I knew every print would work. And my failure rate was less than 5% give or take a percent. In fact failure was so low, it was a fluke. I could hit print and it would work.
Perhaps I got lucky? THough my ender 6 I just setup this weekend, has now produced 15 prints over 2 days with only 1 'error' where the letters on the bottom of the E3D buggy test print were messed up but the whole print still printed, and is lovely.
@@elitewolverine my first printer was an ender 5 and it's almost the same story for me. It's an excellent printer. It should be recommend as a first printer over the ender 3 because of the z axis being on the bed. Helps it be very accurate and reliable.
Bob showing up in this episode is the crossover I never expected… but apparently the one we needed.
That Ender is not one of the cheapest printers you could buy. It's actually considered a decent printer in the 3D printing community. Especially that model of Ender 3 lol. You can get much cheaper.
And with tons of mod support, you can actually make it a pretty decent printer that could handle basically any filament.
@@BurittoSandwich yep, just direct drive upgraded my base ender 3 and got a new board with silent drivers.
Prints petg and tpu like a champ.
@@BurittoSandwich Tell me about it lol. SKR mini v3, CR touch, dual gear metal extruder, Dragonfly BMS hotend, new thermistor, custom part cooling duct, raspberry pi with a webcam for octoprint, glass bed, noctua fan mods on all the fans, etc. etc. Once I started I couldn't stop. It's an addiction. And all of that is just a drop in the bucket compared to the amount of mods and customization you can do with that printer.
false. ender is a cheap model lmfao. prusa printers are twice the cost of an ender and theyre made out of 3d printed components. the point he was making wasnt necessarily about quality anyway, he said its one of the cheapest, not one of the worst. but id never buy an ender lmfao.
@@astrofeeder777 He never said it wasn't expensive. He stated that it's not the cheapest on the market, there's printers that are wayyyy cheaper than the ender 3's.
I did expect a bit more from this episode to be honest.
There are so many options and applications for cars. Like refining prints by sanding filling and painting them to really make them look like bought parts.
Missing out on all the awesome metal prints that are available these days. Like F1 uses them.
One important application for FDM printers is to make molds for carbon-fiber parts. Which directly nets you automotive-grade, heat-resistant and light-weight parts.
This has got to be one of the most realistic demonstrations of 3D printers I've seen. Most channels just show things working in usually ideal conditions, but anyone who has worked with 3D printers knows the pain that Bob went through delivering for this video.
The quality of a print really depends on tuning. I have an ender 3 that had terrible quality but then when I properly tuned it, the parts coming off the bed look almost injection molded
What did you tune yours to?
@@creavityatrandom calibrate e steps, level bed, install bltouch or similar, calibrate flow, calibrate retraction distance/speed, calibrate temperature.
there are plenty of good guides for this online
My ender3 straight up came perfectly calibrated from the start lmfao
Its insane how they built nowadays.
@@honkhonk8009 meh, ender 3 are notorious for bad quality. I have an ender 3v2, while esteps are perfectly calibrated the fans started breaking after a few months and its now unbearable to be in the same room as the printer.
@@honkhonk8009 it wont last, it will fall out of calibration over time
A cool project for low car would be to design a cosmetic hood scoop to cover up that elephant trunk sticking out of the hood left after doing the v8 swap. You could 3D print a mold and use it to fabricate a carbon fiber component to bond to the hood. It's not as hard as it sounds but would make that hood look like you did it on purpose instead of leaving the hood rough cut with a hose sticking out.
Hi Low Car and Jerry's Bike Project I hope would happen someday.
Or 3d print it with polycarbonate filament.
That nose is an absolute tragedy on a very cool car
They don’t do anything challenging anymore
Hi rob
As someone who has a $300 3-D printer, I personally think it prints really high-quality parts, not high enough to be in cars, but high enough to be desk toys.
its shitty to be honest . I bought anycubic kobra max. damn i regret my choice
@@beavonmoranga9048 I feel bad for you.
@@Tim2716 nowawdays 300 you can get a pretty good printer i got my ender 3 s1 for like 270 it comes with a CR Touch which to me is now mandatory on all printers and after leveling the bed knobs could print great prints even better and at 150mm after i got klipper installed on it
Thinking of buying a printer to help organize my garage? Looking at svo6 and ender 3s? Thanks
@@Tim2716 Custom mounting brackets for pc parts it seems like a steal. Sometimes smaller based things are needed to fit a part but isn't a thing. For example internal temperature LCD screens, they're so different to each one, you need to have custom printed bracket.
A highly modified ender 3 can produce the same quality print with a smaller print nozzle and a slicer setting to match. The price really only reflects size of print volume, ringing in prints, and and maybe other featuress like an I closure to keep the air arround the part warm.
I reccomend Carbonfiber Nylon, it's what I use for my Saab parts (NACA ducts, replacement trim, brackets)
these are car guys, 3DP is another language to them
@@MrAlexgiu Wouldnt that mean the polar opposite?
Most car guys ik are big on DIY shit.
3D printers are worth it in hobby stuff in general.
@@honkhonk8009 its a sense of mechanical vs electrical/computer science
As someone who's been 3d printing for 7 years, I hate the misinformation, but glad to see the episode.
As someone who knows nothing about 3d printing, what was the misinformation
Would also like to know what the misinformation was
@@superjive8282 prices, print quality, some of the names of the materials were wrong.
Production takes a while, so it's understandable prices would be wrong, but the ender 3 has been under $200 for years, and goes on sale for $100 if you're near a microcenter.
Don't get it twisted, even with the mistakes and misinformation, it's still a good episode. I find it comical they did better with information on the Pontiac Fiero episode when everyone else butchers it, but they did worse on a 3d printing episode.
Good to know. Thanks.
@@superjive8282 It's not the cheapest 3d printer. It's the best bang for your buck printer. Also I doubt that those discs will survive in the interior in the summer heat. Most filaments the ender 3 can print will hit glass transition temps in the summer heat in the interior. For car interiors you can upgrade the ender 3 with an all metal hot end, steel nozzle, enclosure, fume extractor and an upgraded thermistor and print nylons, abs and polycarbonates that will survive the heat of the interior and engine bay. Even with those upgrades the ender 3 is the best bang for your buck. The printer that's a step up are the prusa 3d printers but will cost more than an ender 3 upgraded for higher temp filament (if I remember correctly) while only being able to print the same filaments as a stock ender 3. You pay more for the prusa for a bigger build area, higher accuracy and shorter print times which can make a huge difference on larger prints with more complicated geometries. The prusa is also less fussy compared to the ender 3
I'd like to see them 3D print the ridge wallet in both machines then compare them.
That's a great idea right here.
That would be jokes, probably some IP legal issues though
I don't think you can print an actual carbon fiber weave tho lol
@@GlorifiedGremlin who knows maybe some might
@@reubenmiller2142 unless you call it the bridge wallet
The sound effects every time Nolan fixes his glasses always get me lol
That $300,000 printer under extruding 😆, also the vertex part was probably like $40 in material 😆
it is not, it is just have bigger (than reprap standard 0.4) nozzles and 0.254mm minimum layer high preset
Nozzle size would not enough if it's not putting out enough filment because it's going to fast or is to cold
The gaps you see on the top is because this gaps are smaller than the nozzle diameter, and apparently stratasys slicer not so advanced as a modern open source ones. It is not underextrushion, all strats prints like that and bonding between layers is exceptional, it just looks ugly and always has been like that
Ender 3 is quite a powerful 3d printer. There's definetly worse printers to do for a cheap printer comparison. Most of its printii capability is based on the user's ability to tune it
It’s actually not the Ender 3 it’s the Ender 3 S1
@@skitterlitter so its just an even better ender 3?
@@fabiofanf3e813 sort of, it’s got a lot different. It has a sprite direct drive extruder, self leveling with matrix sensor. dual lead screws on the z axis. Filament run out detection (that they didn’t even setup properly in the video) the list goes on compared to a standard Ender 3.. mind you an Ender three is also only like $150.00. But the failures in this video are user error and not actually setting the printer up properly (which is super easy with the S1 because of the CR touch sensor.
I have a CR-10 and I can attest to the statement that most of its printing capability is based on the user's ability to tune it 😂
Definitely not the easiest to tune correctly, but once you do the printer is amazing for its price
I have an ender 3. I Have had amazing results with mine. Once you dial it in its amazing. The biggest difference for me was the addition of a glass plate. My ender 3 is the generation before that one but still prints amazingly.
"Hi, I'm Bob at I Like to Drive Stuff!"
When Bob mentioned he had done some collaboration with y'all I was super excited because he's one of my long time faves and Donut is a newer fave. This is an awesome combination and I hope there is more to come!
3d printers are getting pretty insane and I love to see where the industry is going you can print anything from plastic to metal to carbon fiber to glass to wood to concrete and everything in between
I started out with an ender 3. I've upgraded the hot end, motherboard and added a touch screen and it has always worked great. I've printed several car parts in carbon fiber nylon.
A few errors:
When mentioning SLA/SLS, the editor shows a picture of another FDM machine (Makerbot).
There is no consumer SLS machine, and they are quite different from SLA, using lasers to melt powered plastic. SLA uses uses UV lasers or LCD panels masking a UV light source to cure a vat of liquid resin into a part. Bob would know this.
It’s “StRatasys”, not “STATasys” as Zach called it.
The biggest benefit to the more expensive FDM printers is the ability to print the exotic high temp materials. For production quantities that don’t require those exotic plastics, other printers like SLA or MJF can produce production lots of parts less expensively.
PEEK is an amazing plastic, but it is VERY expensive because of that. People trying to get their car parts out of PEEK might be shocked at the quoted print prices.
Out of the errors, him saying statasys bothered me the most
actually form labs just dropped one, the fuse 1, its a "hobby grade" SLS 3d printer
I work for Stratasys programming these machines and setting up builds. They are super simple to use and you can adjust things easily. We make parts for all sorts of industries. We don’t use supports though. My facility does SLS and FDM, MJF mainly. Fun job being able to build whatever my mind can come up with to a point. I’ve made parts for my motorcycle and a lot of figurines. Very interesting field to say the least.
3D printing truly is a game changer. I remember 15 years ago when 3D printers were commerical only and were less powerful than the home ones you and I could buy. I've printed so many different things. Love it
Maybe it’s the cheapest one that actually works
7 years ago wasn't that long ago. From then to now the main thing has been a race to the bottom on price. But even 5-6 years ago we a had a lot of the same cheap 3d printers we have today in their initial form. The CR-10 is 6 years old.
Reprap project started in 05 and commercial mainstream hobbyist printers have been around since 2012.
Hobbyist FFF printers went commercial when Scott Crump’s patent on FDM (Stratasys) expired in 2009. Similar thing happened with EOS’ patent on SLA.
More like 10-12 years ago instead of 7.
Did you read that before you posted it? First, 3D printers have been out way longer than 7 years. Second, if they were "commercial only" you wouldn't be buying a home one. Do you know what the word "only" even means?
@@joeno4683 simple mistake on my part mate. I meant to write 15 not 7 🤷
I like how with the expensive one he was like "This looks like shit, and we hear that a lot... but imagine you wanted 1,000!" If I was wanting 1,000 identical parts, I sure as hell don't want them to look like THAT. Also the blue MSLA prints at the end had visible layer lines. The Mars 2 Pro I used years ago printed better looking parts. Was this a "quick, just hit GO" type demo with the lowest settings they could find?
I just received a Creality Ender 3 V3 KE and I have to say I'm quite impressed with the couple of builds I've printed. From unboxing to my first print took maybe 1 hour. The unit is built impressively solid. Nothing feels, looks or even sounds cheap so far). The calibration was 100% automated which is the way it should be. I printed the requisite Tugboat and also a Lithophane night light. I was very impressed with how smooth the print came out and also how strong (relatively speaking) the print is. I'll move on to more functional projects which require some strength and durability this winter. At the very least, having a 3D printer and learning how to design and print is just another valuable tool in my technology arsenal. A couple of observations: The cost differential while my prints are "smooth" and certainly good enough for personal use, it would be a stretch to say the output is "production" quality so newcomers should not expect injection molding quality ;)
BTW your (video) editor should get props for correctly engineering the sound. It's one of the first YT videos with enough volume that your not straining to hear.
Hi, 3DPrinting specialist here. Awesome video, I know when starting in a new area can be overwhelming with information, principally 3dprinting that is growing exponentially. I also understand why is important to break down to make easier to understand. Although I wanted that you break apart about the different types of 3d printer. Hopefully you guys start learning more and more about the slicer you are using, and soon you guys can get even better parts. Congrats in general!
I like how at the high end high production print shop, you can see all the neat little projects the employees work on in their spare time like that boot or the mew lol it was the exact same way when my dad worked at a metal fab shop in the military. Everybody had cool metal stuff they'd made. They made my dad an entire sword when he retired lol
My favorite are the muffler shops that weld a tin man out of used pipes and mufflers lol.
That's why they do it because they have a love for it and enjoy it. Yes they work and build things for customers and what not but you always have to have time to build your own fun projects
I'm in tool and die and when I'm not building for the company I'm either marching tools for me to use or just a fun little project
@@johnathonsmith6893 Yeah if i didn't tinker I wouldn't learn anything new. Because trying something different and learn something new can make us realize we've wasted so much time doing things a different way.
Why not half a sword?
I got a 3d printer and I use PLA+ for engine Bay stuff in my Corrado.
The Corrado doesn't have a good aftermarket shift linkage. So we designed one in pla+ because the plastic acts as a bushing and is easy to replace
For those looking into getting into 3d printing the ender 3 is a solid option, not the best or latest tech printer bit it as it's getting a little dated but certainly capable of great quality printing and has one if not the most documented knowledge base and customization aftermarket options of any hobby printer available. Plus it's super easy to modify it to be able to print high end materials like ABS and Carbon fiber nylon with a simple hot end / nozzle upgrade and an enclosure. Been using that exact combo for a couple years now making my own cosmetic and mechanical auto parts like velocity stacks for instance.
Honestly can't think of another printer that could so easily and cheaply be converted to printing these material besides the creatily Ender3 and bigger brother CR10. Anything else is usually a big jump in price.
This is NOT a collab I ever expected to happen, but I'm all for it !
You like ridge wallet
Hi
This is the crossover I didn't think I needed
BUT MAN, I am glad this happened
Same here!
I’ve been paying more close attention to the Donut Media channel since Bob mentioned it on his podcast. I subscribe to both, but don’t always watch every video.
Super fun to see him here.
Maybe next we have Donut vs Jimmy Diresta on modifying a truck bed. 😋
Sup kev
This was the most painful video on this channel I've seen. Please have someone who knows what they're talking about recreate the entire episode.
So have you made that vid Mr I know everything?
@@user-cy7qt5pe5z plenty others have already
We're waiting
@@user-cy7qt5pe5z what
I just kinda wish the editing was more accurate. For example, the editor wrote "PT" when Bob said PET, and all kinds of cgi examples are kinda iffy. On the other hand, this video isn't made for 3d printing nerds like us
Jobe comes in like the mature big brother who's been paying attention and saves the day.
Ah yes the MakerBot replicator a SLS printer. 🤣 @2:15
You guys should try and get someone to show you a metal printer. I know they're common in aerospace but I wouldn't be surprised if they're used for turbo intakes, manifolds, and any weirdly shaped mounting brackets and supports
I've heard of them being used in NASCAR
Koenigsegg makes their entire variable vane turbocharger for one, not just a turbo intake.
they are often used in F1 for testing out new parts and designs for cheap and SLS printers aka 3D Metal printers are not very uncommon so should be easy to find
papadakis racing youtube channel and you will see metal 3d printing of exhaust manifold on inconel if I can remember right
@@leviathan19 that's a serious alloy
You can make almost any print look factory finished off even the cheapest machines with enuff post print finishing and painting..they really help to bring ideas to life or create low volume production...
I have a set of 1.5" spacers on top of my struts that outlasted one set of struts and show no signs of falling anytime soon printed of a very old school genesis printer back in 2014 in PETG. Now these days I can print just about any material out there on a heavily modified ender 5 plus and total cost of the printer is still under $2k . Most notable is a supercharger mount made out of pa12+cf that would be normally reserved for a milling machine. 3D printing is so awesome, and you are only limited by your imagination. Haven't tried it but there's no reason I can't print the peek like he mentioned, I know for sure I can get the chamber temp high enough and my hotend can easily handle 410 degrees.
You can print print as many colors as you want on the Ender too, but there are obviously limits. You just put a pause on the layer right before the letters raise up (in Donut for example) and then swap the filament and resume. There is usually a default macro "m600" that exists for this purpose and it will pause, move the head out of the way, etc.
if u have an directdrive feed, you can just cut the filament off at the right moment while printing and insert the new color, all without even the need to stop the print.
Buy a multi color printer and quit fighting to make a print. Many of my prints have 4 colors on every layer. the change filament buy layer doesn't work in those situations.
I used a 3D scanner app and my ender 3 to create and print new trim clips for my el camino. Honestly has saved me so much money. Also printed my license plate holder in 2 pieces and fused it together. Cost me about $10 in fullerene compared to $90 on eBay
Which app?
^
@@caddyguy5369 heges is a good one to use with an iphone front facing camera since it has Lidar. That's what i use to scan my car, it has a learning curve though.
@@Maderasdesign I've been eyeing up consumer 3d scanners for a while. Maybe I should get a used iPhone.
@@caddyguy5369 for sure! Im about to make a handle that lets me point the phone at my object and a mirror underneath to see what im scanning lol. Its hard to use the front facing camera for scanning sometimes
Hey, 3D printing SME here (8yrs exp). The main difference b/t cheap printers and more expensive printers is 1. The build volume, and 2. The build chamber temperature regulation. To print the PEEK, Ultem1010, CF Nylon, materials you have to have a build chamber that can reach 150 degrees C. For FDM machines the deposition rate is similar throughout all price points. If you all ever want a metal 3D printing SME hit me up
I’m subbed to ILTMS and Bob’s one person who is never expect to see on Donut. 😂 This is a collab I did not see coming.
I've been using an Ender 3 v2 for a few years now and works great for printing interior car accessories. A couple of mods like a glass print bed and automatic bed leveler really reduce the amount of failed prints! Using software like Ultimaker Cura can help with adding the detail to prints (while increasing print time) along with just a little bit of sanding goes a long way as well!
What automatic bed leveler do you use?
That sounds like a spell in final fantasy lmao. Especially since Ultima, and cura ARE spells in FF 😂😂 I love it!
@@NLamki2002 also interested in knowing this
@@NLamki2002 I am unable to attach Amazon links so here are the names of the bed leveler and the board upgrade I used. You may need to flash a new firmware to read the bed leveler:
Dawnblade Creality CR-Touch Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Kit, for Ender-3 / Ender-5 / CR-10 Series, Official 3D Printer Upgrade Kit
Creality V4.2.7 Upgrade Mute Silent Mainboard for Ender 3 Customized Silent Board, Ender 3 Silent Mother Board
@@mekg5430 is the board upgrade required?
I've been waiting to see what Bob did with you while he was there. Very cool demo. I've got an Ender 3 v2 myself. In spite of the caveats you talked about here, which are completely legitimate, the Ender is one of the better OOTB experiences compared to others in its price class. It's a decent gateway to casual hobbiests. Now I just need to figure out what I can print with it for my car.
Totally awesome to see Bob just show up in a Donut video!
At about 9:25... Love the honesty. Watching a 3d printer falls somewhere between watching paint dry, and watching grass grow.
this was a great episode! ive been looking into getting tinot 3d prininting and this was definitely very imfortamtive! it was nice to hear from the experts and the future of 3d printing!
Sick! If anybody is interested, remember that for anything automotive you need a temperature resistant material (ABS, ASA, etc). PLA will soften immediately if you leave your car in the sun for a minute or two!
Look in the forums, groups or TH-cam channels if the printer you're looking to buy can handle them!
I would have loved to see a printer in the middle of those two, like a Prusa as they're about 700-900 with shipping depending on the country you're in.
I have 7 3d printers and am working on getting parts to build my 8th a voron 2.4r2.
The ender 3v2 can print faster with the proper setup in the slicer. I have managed a 13min benchy on one of my modded ender 3 pro.
Also have a dual nozzle dual extruder ender 3 pro that I modded. Pretty cool introduction into the dual filament world.
My cheapest is an Ender 2 pro and it does really good quality prints with PLA and PETG they can be had for $100-$150 and are fantastic if you don't need a massive print surface.
You can print engine bay parts with the right filament. Such as ABS,Nylon,polycarbonate.
Bro the lil squeak when Nolan pushes up his glasses gets me every time
2:37 a correction, it's PET (or PETG as in polyethylene glycol), not "PT". Also, you don't print carbon fiber, you print carbon fiber additive materials, where there are carbon fibers added to the polymer material for reinforcement, as mentioned in 15:30
Thank you for your service, Private Pedantry
Gotta check your hearing as he clearly says P-E-T.
@@albertastrofimovas He says, but the annotation is incorrect
Polyethylene terephthalate glycol
@@sylaswojciechowski6895 I feel like this was more "reporting" than making an instructional video, so it gets a pass for small errors.
As you know, journalism might cover a wide variety of topics that a journalist might not be familiar about, so keep that in mind when some extremist "independent news source" presents mistakes by "the other size" to "prove" they're untrustworthy.
Dual extreuder doesn't justify 7k price. 'Tho iut's Ultimaker, Apple of 3d-printers so, yeah. You can DIY enclusoure and camera etc around eg. MK3 + MMU with fraction of that price.
Also comparing rectilinear and monotonic top infill doesn't correlate with price at al.
If you want print quality, everyone knows resin is the way to go. Nozzle size and calibration are key for quality on FDM printers. A large scale 3d printer is exactly that, for printing large scale objects.
Would have been nice to see some MSLA in the mix.
Nice to see 3dp in donut vids. Try out the older ender3/ender3 v2, they are about $100 less. they may require a bit more troubleshooting, but are still capable. I've had an 1st gen ender3 for a few years and it gets the job done. Also there is a large community around modifying the ender3 to make it more capable.
I love ILTMS, Bob is such a cool dude 😎 awesome to see these two YT channels get together.
Having a few years of experience working with 3D printing as a hobby, the quality of 3D prints on FDM machines are highly dependent on the operator more than the machine. A properly set up Ender 3 can exceed machines several times it's price, but it it will require a lot of knowledge and a solid technical knack to do so.
The finish on the one fan plug was because of the hole in the center, the 7k one would do the same thing but when setting up on either you could adjust the settings to make it go back over and iron it smoother
0:34 oh yeah let me buy a ridge walet, it's a flamethrower resistant! -said nobody ever
The Creality Ender 3D printers are genuinely excellent for the price. If you’re on the fence, go ahead and pick one up. Very fun and practical. I’ve done 100s of prints with mine and she’s still going strong. I’m using the 3 year old model as well so the newer one is significantly better than mine.
I've got an older model (Cr-10) that has been going strong since 2017. Great platform.
I'd really like to see some information about where to go to get/make 3D models of specific car parts. It's one thing to just say you can print it but aquiring a model for a specific interior piece can be difficult unless youre lucky and someone has posted exactly what you need in some corner of the internet.
PLEASE LOWER THE MUSIC VOLUME OR MAKE YOUR VOICES LOUDER.
I’m constantly adjusting the volume to be able to watch this video.
2 minutes in and craziest crossover ever, love both your channels and so happy you guys collaborated on this!!
For the ender 3 you'll need to adjust the infill and turn on ironing but other than that you can def make those look identical.
I think one of the reasons they looked so different is because of the hole on the ender 3's part, that would make the nozzle have to go different ways to print that, which would make it have that rough texture
@@vibinz6693 so I have an ender 3 and the ironing option I talk about smooths it all out. It's not just the printer it's also the slicer they're using.
Hmm.
My. Cr10v2 with bl and Direct Drive has never given me trouble and prints amazing with perfect dimension.
Can't imagine spending over 1k on a printer after owning this one
I 3d printed a snorkel for my ST lol. Theres a couple things you can do. Snorkels, washer fluid caps, phone holders, center console organizers, pedal spacers, etc
this is one collaboration I never thought I would see!! that's awesome!
I remember when my school got a 3D printer for the first time 8 years ago and I took a whole day to get a cube you could fit in your hand printed out. But it was dope asf cus it just made something tangible and interactive
For anyone suffering lift off of parts from the print bed, try using a glue stick to apply a thin layer of glue prior to printing. I use the same thin layer for 5 or 6 prints before I add a dot more, and then I'll do about 20 prints before removing the plate and cleaning in soapy water. Haven't had a model lift/move since using the glue stick method, although you do have to wait for the bed to cool down a lot more before the model will release!
Take it from someone who has owned a good 15 3D printers, with just two being SLA. The high-end and expensive ones aren't needed for a hobbyist. Aside from some minor SLA prints, I predominantly print in PLA or PLA+. I rarely print trinkets. I'd figure that 99% of my prints are functional designs.
Easily the two game-changers for my setups have been enclosed filament heaters to kill off moister, and going with printers with auto leveling.
Dude I love this colab. I had to double take when they introduced Bob. Some of my favorite Chanel’s!
Also with the ender for relatively cheap upgrade you are able to print carbon fibre/ nylon which would be able to withstand the heat of and engine bay so that could be something to test in the future
You can print abs with out upgrades, you really just need to build a box around it to keep the heat in it.
$185000 printer underextruding is crazy
Had to pause, absolutely love the old NCIS reference. That scene always made me crack up laughing.
Would have been cool to see some current gen metal 3d printing. I had a custom bracket made for my engine bay in steel. Designed myself in 3d software, sent the file through a company online's upload system, paid $50 and had the part in my mailbox in 2 weeks.
wow! what site did u use? sounds awesome for custom fab stuff i dont have the tools for
Check out titans of cnc they have amazing metal prints
That’s cool, what is the bracket used for and how does the quality hold up? This would be a good thing to replace certain parts you can’t find anywhere.
Two of my favorite channels together! Awesome!
I 3d printed a shrouded 18 blade propeller with a diameter of 14" in Nylon (had to consult a professional for that size)
I then mounted it to a DC motor/generator and battery. This then was mounted to the front of my old winter beater Saturn. From my experiments I determined that using a small amount of current to keep it spinning all of the time even when stopped looked cool, aided in cooling, and increased efficiency. Ultimately I generated usable charging current above 20mph where I generated around 80 watts, all the way up to 1kw at 75mph. It was a fun experiment to run my wet cell HHO generator which ultimately aided in the destruction of my engine (it had 300k+ miles)
2:34 He's saying "PET", not "PT". It's one of the more common materials for 3d printing which also happens to be the same plastic used for most plastic bottles
I was so surprised to see Bob here, been folowing his work for a realy long time now
Dear Nolan, I NEED more Chrysler Imperial content. I'd actually love seeing more of donut employee personal projects as well.
Great video. Surprised they didn't focus more on SLS with metals. Maybe too expensive/uncommon.
have an ender 3 v2 neo and never struggled as much as this with printing anything. I print tons of stuff in petg and ABS without issues all the time.
The sPro60 is "good" for 15x13x18 but the outside inch or so has some weird thermals going on that causes warping, so if that matters to you the effective build area is only around 11x13x18. Unless 3D Systems fixed that in the later revisions, i have no idea.
The Ender 3 is a great machine. I am a mech engineer and have two of them at home. At the office we have two Ultimakers an S3 and an S5 and my Enders print quality is on part with the Ultimakers on PLA. I recommend the Ender 3 (specially the S1 Pro) for any hobbyist out there!
As an ender S1 pro owner I wouldn't recommend it to other people.
@@omrcz these 2 comments perfectly describe owning a 3d printer.
How about for just a mechanic to help organize tool boxes. Im hearing the ender 3 max or neo. Are the svo6's any better?
@@Grant3758 the printing surface is too small even on the max to create organizing trays for a toolbox. You would have to print them in segments and then super glue them together. I didn't think a 3d printer is the right tool for that unless you have a smaller thing to print in mind. If that's the case the Ender will suffice.
He said the same things when I was presenting S5 for my manager. I decided to take one of them because ease-of-use and the ability to teach how to use for people between ages of 18-60.
It’s so crazy that those 3 pieces took an hour and a half and it was really fast. I have a feeling we’ll be looking back on this video 20 years from now and laughing or remembering these machines like I remember the Motorola RAZR
For that price it’s already slow now the 1650 dollar x1 carbon prints around that time if not fast with better quality
@@sober4159 Look at the benchy speed race: there were fast printers even before the bamboo one. =)
Am I really the only one who misses the old Donut shows?
No I do too. It feels lazy lately.
@@CamAteUrKFC Thanks man. I don’t DISlike the new stuff they’re making, I just really miss the old stuff like B2B, H/L, Wheelhouse, Up to Speed, Money Pit, etc. I wish they would at least let us know if it’s in the plans to bring them back.
I'm glad that you guys are shedding more light on the world of 3d printing. It is such a fun hobby, and it is changing the world.
3d printing is nerd bs
@@206beastman what is too hard for you?
@@206beastman , it's pretty effective, just not a high volume production method.
@@206beastman Useful for lots of stuff, may save your life one day (they can both make weapons liberating countries, to medical parts), they can do quite a bit. Sure, the exotic supercars are really the only people using them to print titanium turbochargers (due to impossible to manufacture geometry with casting or CNC), but they have a lot of application and lots of parts of my motorcycle are slowly getting vibration dampening or mounting, or heck even my temporary tag is printed because the state says it takes them nearly a MONTH to replace my tag... I can't just not work for a month...
@@MaxC_1 , I think you read way too much into my reply, lol. The guy I was responding to said 3D printing was 'BS.' To which I responded, it is very useful, just not great for high volume, just in case that was his issue.
I use 3D printing all of the time myself for straight up prints, prototyping, and models for metal casting. So, you're preaching to the choir ;-)
thanks for the help it help my every thing i need to install
Yoooo! Big props for the ratfink shirt, I was so shocked to see that. Ed roth is my all time favorite artist 👌
IMO Donuts infomercials are worthy of their own play list
These TH-cam collabs have been killing me. Bob at donut?? Heck yeah
😀
There's tons of stuff in my engine bay that was printed on my Ender 3. Annealed PLA has a higher heat resistance than ABS.
As someone who prints in resin I physically recoiled when you smelled the uncured print 16:09 🤣 won't catch me near it without my respirator
I've found 3d printed parts made of plastic don't do well any where in a car that sits in the Texas heat. Everything I've ever printed that goes in a car gets warped after a summer week.
That's a shortcoming of PLA, which is what most low-cost 3D printers use. Buy an Afinia and print in ABS, just cover the fume filter with a sheet of paper as it will warp larger prints if it blows directly on it (don't know why they designed it that way). I've never seen a printer perform better than a Tiertime/Afinia in ABS, especially at the same speed and dimensional accuracy.
Very cool to see them make a video about this but there is a lot of missing info about it for sure. Also there is no "Just print it" there needs to be a working and printable design. People do upload some files for free but most of the time your going to be making the parts yourself seeing that there are no files for them. Cheaper 3D scanners will help a lot but they are not easy to use for the most part so you will need to learn how to use them. My channel is gearing up to be all about how to do this. I will be showing how to make parts from scratch using different methods like 3D printing, 3D scanning, laser cutting / engraving and metal casting. 😁👍
I just took a peek at your channel and your videos are great. Keep it up!
Truth be told I started this channel with a similar intent as I've long believed the 'mechanical' side of making could use the same kind of love software & electronics get. I find that the problem many newcomers have with kits & programs is that they teach the absolute basics then there's barely any good forms of progression/tool or design knowledge etc. and if they want to continue things quickly get out of scope. Unfortunately, I've been busy with school, but your channel has encouraged me to at least bump it as a priority.
2:19 that "SLS" printer you are showing is a MakerBot Replicator, which is also an FDM printer.
The lines on the cheaper one, you can see that they line up with the hole, thats because its not continually filling in a circle but has to jump to the other side of the hole, i havent used the ultimaker but i think it will probably do the same thing
Zack Jobe standing on a cube that can support his weight : “ this is the future “
Completely unexpected crossover! ❤️
Pogo Shoes !!!!
I have successfully made BMW TPS adapters for Miatas using ABS 3D Printers. I've made other parts that aren't in the engine bay as well, like fusebox adapters/mounts. Highly recommend it.
For the record, I use Prusa Mk3s+, best support, best quality, decent price.
I have a older ender3 pro with just a basic arduino controller and bland basic as shit LCD screen, I took it out of the box, assembled what it needed ... its been running damn near perfect for a few years in my garage... summer and winter. The only mod being a shim under one of the steppers.
These newer machines with the fancy touch screens and 32 bit controllers seems delicate (yells at cloud), and every twin Z lead screw machine I have ever owned has been a pain in the ass, cause they never have feedback and then get out of sync, and eventually start binding while making great tapers