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Did you notice on the camera when you increase the speed the tires lose grip because they deform? RC fast cars use a kind of a rubber foam tire. Also you can put styrofoam inside the tires, like GoodStuff to avoid the lack of grip.
I found something that should help you build a better car: if you look at some videos of Project air, you will find out that the gyros aren't a good idea for high speed as they have a tendency to be affected by the small socks that the car experiences. The type of tyres that you need are foam one as they aren't really affected by the rotation of the wheels.
And btw, try to lower your car and reduce the amount of air that can go under it, to increase your grip, lower your center of gravity for stabilisation, and but some holes in the side parts of your chassis to try to make it lighter without losing strength
Gearing(big gear little gear)(and if you decide to go like 4 wheel drive rc like you watched on youtube the Diffs gearing) you have way too much torque the tires ballooning up like that says it all your power is on the low end right now. When i first got my electric car rc i didn't understand how to get more top end but it's all up to gearing with electric unlike nitro whereas top needle low needle and idle needle determine the tune sure you could put a bigger brushless/batteries or higher amperage speed controller but then more weight and complexity. As for tires switch to bald like tires and get them nice and hot/sticky or find a smooth asphalt road. Another option is dual high kv brushless cans(plus they tend be much smaller and lighter) so you could get the torque(tire snap) at all speed ranges but you would still have to set the gear ratio.
I recommend you get a hold of a pistol-grip style transmitter. It is far more intuitive for driving; I'm sure it will help you better understand the required control inputs when you're spinning out.
Hi! I've been driving hobby-grade RC cars for 5 years and 3d-printing for 3 so here's some tips: 1. You're right, those are definitely not the right tires for 100 MPH, they are made for a short course truck. They also experience ballooning (which is what happens when the centrifugal forces expand the tire) which caused them to fall off the rims. And yes, they should be glued to the wheels, 99% of rubber tires for RC cars have them glued. For speedruns you would use either foam tires (which have more grip and are lighter, so they don't experience balloning) or belted rubber tires. 2. The transmitter you're using is okay but it's not really meant for RC cars. It's much more comfortable to use a "pistol" type transmitter (for example a Flysky GT5, which you could use with the receiver you currently have. 3. The top speed of an RC Car isn't magic and can be easily calculated. With your setup (6s LiPo, 108mm tires, 10T pinion, 50T spur, 1000 KV (motor RPM per Volt) motor) you could theoretically reach 102.6 kph or 63.37 mph, thats assuming 100% efficiency. The formula for this car (direct drive transmission) is: [((KV*nOfCells*4,2)/60)*(pionionT/spurT)*(Pi*tireDiameter)]/1000*3,6. If you wanna convert it to MPH just multiply the result by 0,62. 4. Unless you have a perfectly smooth surface (like a strip of highway that's about to open) then you need good suspension, that is springs + damping. While the springs make the suspension "soft" or "hard" the dampers are used to make it less bouncy. You can try different hardness springs and viscosities of oil inside the shocks to tune it. 5. Despite what many people say the aerodynamics of RC cars are important. Things like spinning tires generate a lot of drag so it's best to cover them under a body. I'd look at both racing car bodies (from Protoform or Bittydesign) and speedrun bodies (Deltaplastik) and try to design something similar. There is also a lot of stuff to consider about the suspension setup like caster and toe but with 3D printer tolerances they're less important than the things I mentioned. If you'd like to ask about something, I'd be happy to help.
Some suggestions in no particular order: - Design it to have adjustable toe. Toe-in would help a lot with stability. - Put a good sized vertical fin from around the center to the wing, like the ones you see on 2017 Formula One cars. This would increase straight line stability by increasing the resistance to yaw and steering changes. - Adjust the steering input to be speed-sensitive. For example: steering output = steering input / speed. Or something to that degree, whatever works best in testing. - Your suspension - especially the rear - is probably adequate in travel and spring force, but probably inadequate in damping, if those shocks even have real dampers on the inside. Those bumps are making the rear bounce and turn, forcing the front to go that way, which causes it to flip. - Increasing overall downforce would also help stabilize the car, and make it more resistant to direction changes from caused by bumps.
also, you need to grease up your fancy ball-bearing driveshaft thing, and also grease up those ball joints. just adding grease would easily add 10 mph to your speed on the driveshaft. adding grease to the ball joints and any other moving parts would greatly improve performance, as especially at high speeds they will tend to "stick" if not greased up. grease reduces friction, which can help reduce wear, but also obivously helps increase movement, increasing performance.
Wow super cool that you were able to use my design as a launching point for your project. Great video keep it up. Some will tell you it’s not possible but I was told designing the Tarmo5 with the current specs wasn’t possible by a lot of people on the internet. I am sure you can make the design a lot better!
A couple years ago I started down the same project 100mph 3D Printed R/C car.... I started looking at the available R/C car models and prints ultimately started designing my own. Seeing what you have accomplished I will have to start that up again.
-Belted tires so they do not balloon -A body for aero dynamics, at 35mph aero drag increases to nearly rolling drag and air resistance scales with size so it is for sure a factor
@@Brettjnash this makes sense too. But CV joints are found on the cheapest of cars, wouldn't universal joints be much cheaper and stronger? But Jeep used universal joints for a really long time, but then again, they were not meant to be in 4wd on pavement, so no power going through them. I bet the difference between the two isn't that much frankly.
You are right about the Universal joints creating that sine wave type motion. However if you have two (the exact same way the CV joints are setup) they actually cancel each other out completely removing the oscillation. That is why any production RC car the buy uses universal joints and not cv joints.
yes and no. on the rear, input and out put are parallel and stay that way, neglecting unequal swingarm stuff... on the front, the wheels steer. theres the imbalanced uni joint. and the last thing you want is your front steering wheels having non-constant velocity. unless youre a rock crawler and speeds are slow enough to not give a damn. can always stick them on top of each other coaxially. gets complicated. CV is easier at that point. a lot of production cars are coming with CV joints now...
As an enthousiast of Rc speedrunning and recent Bambu X1 carbon (& PAHT-CF) owner, you got me inspired. Some tips: 1. Do really get a surface radio (you'll not need the gyro anymore) Control will feel way more natural. 2. Tyres are everything. There are only a few brand offering foam tyres that can do 120+ reliable. Rubbers give more grip and only a few will do so. Grap yourself some GRP GT-sized wheels. 3. Aero will reduce demand for power. But most lack of aero can be solved by power up to 100mph. You will certainly end up with a 4092 inrunner and a bigger ESC which doesn't limit your amp draw. Batteries (max amp draw and voltage sag) will be the next bottleneck. Do some research on "true C rating" 4. Stiffen up your suspention. Definately the rear.
I think you should get FPV camera + goggles and it will make your driving much more accurate immediately. Also adjust the max steering angle to be less for high speeds: either strongly non-linear control if you can avoid going to the sides during sudden movement or actually limit the steering angles similar to gaming console racing games typically do it.
You don’t really need that it’s a skill issue but he’s new to this stuff just like the Traxxas XO-1 or arrma limited they don’t come with FPV you just don’t need it.
An aerodynamic shell and some more weight or wider tires could give you the stability to reach 100 maybe. Gonna be a fight between friction/drag and stability I think.
Can you post the STLs and BOM list? I like your design and will definitely make one. I would suggest getting the batteries as low as possible to lower the center of gravity. Also look in to either metal gears, or print them form better materials, at least abs or higher temps. Also lube them up! Great build
The carbon fibre nylon would probably be suitable for gears, they usually don’t recommend you use it with other materials due to the abrasiveness but it should be fine with itself, plain nylon is also very good for gears since it is self lubricating. PLA is likely to melt but if you have enough friction to melt other materials then something is wrong.
@@conorstewart2214 wouldnt cf-nylon gears cause more friction due to the chopped carbon fiber inside the filament that results in a rough exterior? it is also very hygroscopic so many lubricants will be absorbed into a gear made of cf-nylon.
@@pooppyybuhhole the carbon fibre would improve wear resistance but may add a little friction. Nylon is very often used for gears, it being hygroscopic isn't an issue. There is also a difference between water and oils getting absorbed. Something like lithium grease works well and doesn't cause any issues. Also nylon is self lubricating so you may not need any lubricant.
@@conorstewart2214 PLA is great for gears except for the very first motor pinion gear. Even then I've used PLA gears on low current motors who's shaft doesn't get warm. There is no reason to use fancy materials... And for that matter, I'm not sure any 3d printed motor pinion gear for attaching to that outrunner bell is going to not suck. Broke on the layer lines in the video, good luck printing in any other orientation that also won't just split in half.
Universal joint can give you a constant speed but you need two of them. Your suspension is build in the way that the inner shaft is ALWAYS parallel to the wheel shaft. So if you put two universal joints, the will cancel each out. On the test stand you have only one "bend", so the rotation has oscilations, but if the shafts of the gearbox and the wheel are paralell then two oscilations in the universal joints has opposite phase.
Having a pistol grip transmitter will definitely make you feel more comfortable going at high speeds. I would say find a cheep Traxxas style rc and just get use to bashing it around and comfortable driving. Having a gyro compensate is fine but only after getting use to driving it plane. Also be careful of oscillations at high speeds from over compensation. I cant believe how well the printed car held up after that crash and I am so looking forward to seeing you hit +100mph. Best of luck!!
@@Theroux1989by the same logic, never seen a drone pro pilot, or any other hobby-grade vehicle at all, using a pistol grip. Conventional transmitters are cheaper, ambidextrous, come in different shapes and sizes, have better hardware like hall sensors with little to no deadband or drift, run on community maintained, always evolving open source firmware, can bind to multiple protocols/bands and even swap modules, including open source, low lattency, long range protocols like expresslrs, can control any kind of vehicle, support all kinds of telemetry data, inputs/outputs/mixing/trimming are 100% customizable. sticks allows for super fine, precise and agile control and are not monopolized by one or two companies that haven't evolved since the 80s. not even a $700 futaba is objectively better than a $200 radiomaster. and yes... I have extensively used pistol grips in the past and hated them so much that went to the extend of reverse-engineering their propietary protocols so I can use my own, single transmitter to control all my rc vehicles...
@@knoopx As a guy that has Raced RC's at national champion level(I got third out of seventeen) And also flies RC drones and Heli's Pistol grips are way better on RC cars than stick's because of the way the controls work(have driven RC cars with sticks and it's a pain in the butt) Drone pilots cant use pistol grips(duh GL flying a drone with only two fully proportional channels) You dont like them But there is a reason why all pro RC drivers use pistol grips(including my buddy which has been the national Electric and Nitro buggy champion here for the last four years)
@@storm4710 sure, braking control is superior indeed, and although preference is not a technical aspect of it, it also plays a very strong role. thing is people is recommending a pistol grip like it is going to magically solve the car stability issues when it will make no difference and he's better keeping that radiolink and focusing on the root issues.
I would personally recomend a "castle sidewinder" motor as they are stupid powerful even at 3s, also add another motor to the front and make it 4wd, it will be much more stable!!
Nope, you want the softest spring possible without bouncing off the upper or lower end stops at full compression and de-compression. He needs slower damping to reduce the high speed oscillations.
To fix the "de-beading" issue with the tires. You can use a popular drag racing and offroading design called a "bead locking wheels". Instead of glue, it's a clamp.
Nice video! Love to see RC content. Foam tires will help, the ballooning hurts performance quite a bit. Also, instead of using two shocks, use one but grab stiffer springs and use thicker shock oil. A proper rc car remote is a must too, it's much easier to control. And a better road will improve stability too
The reason your car was spinning out mainly was due to the tires. Even when you are driving on flat ground, the tire still rounds out the faster you go, making your contact patch smaller and smaller. Almost like your tires are turning into bicycle tires.
I think the number one thing you can optimize is the gear reduction, if you manage to get the amp draw the motor with the current setup at diferent speeds you can get a idea of the power/speed curve and estimate the max speed you can hit with this motor (his max power) then adjust the gear ratio to hit maximum voltage and current at this speed (migh differ a bit from theory, but it would be great start) , also try using gears with number of tooth that are prime one with another (=>1 is their only common denominator) to prevent premature deterioration
Other than a smoother surface, you may want to soften your suspension as a common reason for losing power at speed is that the bumps lift your wheels. You may also want to lower the car as to lower the centre of gravity. Adjust your front wheels to some Tow-In, probably about 1 degree. This is not so great for cornering but offers stability in straight lines. Finally, look at adding a shell of some kind. This is primarily for aerodynamics. When you hit those speeds, wind resistance becomes a real factor and especially so if your chassis has areas which are either asymmetrical or potentially look to raise the car off the ground.
Here are a few things you can do to improve the stability: -Adding some toe-in to the front wheels will help it track straighter. (Toe-out will improve handling in the turn but won't track well) Loose linkages will add toe out, which will cause wandering. For that reason, you should use adjustable tie-rods so you can make adjustments. -Add 1 or 2 degrees of of toe in on the rear wheels too. This really helps when accelerating, which seemed to be a problem in the video. -Lower the suspension. Your ride height should be only as high as it needs to be, and since you're running on flats, keep it low. -Get some better shocks. Losi 22 or 8ight shocks will be MUCH better and still let you have loads of suspension if you want to go offroad. The shocks you have look like they're meant for low speed toys or rock crawlers or something. -Your springs and shocks should be set up so that there is approximately as much down travel ad there is up travel. That is to say, when you set your car down, the suspension should compress at least half-way. If you're riding at the top of your suspension travel all the time, the wheels are constantly leaving the ground. Having down travel helps keep the wheels on the ground, which keeps you in control. -Your rear shocks are too angled in at the top. They should be about half way from where they are to vertical. This is part of why you needed to add a second set of shocks - the more angled the shocks are, the less weight they can carry. -Your front shocks are angled the wrong way. They should be angled more like the rears, but not as much. This matters a lot. Angled in make the suspension progressively more stiff as it compresses, which helps control body roll. Angled out makes it progressively less stiff as it compresses, which makes body roll worse... that's bad.... really bad. -Move the motor to in front of the the rear axel rather than behind it, and the battery mounted transversely in front of that. This will give you better weight distribution. -Change your wheels to 1/8 scale buggy wheels. You're using short coarse truck wheels, which are designed for off-road. This will require a different hub, so get the wheels first and design to match. -Gluing tires to rims is a must... always. clean the surfaces well, and use lower viscosity, high quality CA to penetrate the gaps better and get a stronger glue... don't use the supermarket stuff, it's not as strong. You'll need a good bond if you're going to go 100mph... -Use some decent tire inserts. This will help keep the tires from deforming as much. -Get a ground transmitter. The old stick controllers just aren't as good for cars... (It is a matter of preference, but you don't see a lot of stick style transmitters these days for RC cars... by which I mean for the last 30 years or so. As someone who has been doing this long enough to have used both, and even made the transition from sticks to pistol, AND as someone also into RC planes, I would have to concede that pistol is better.) -I'm not sure what you have for a steering servo, but consider getting a quality steering servo if you don't have one. This will make a night and day difference. You want something with good speed and torque... It doesn't matter how well you drive, or how good your gyro is, if your steering servo can't react fast enough.
This is awesome! I also went down the rabbit hole of 3d printing RC cars and ended up redesigning a traxxas rustler 2wd, reusing the gearbox and drivetrain to create my own 3d printed speed demon. It’s got some reliability issues especially since i run it on 8S, and it’s gotten up to 60mph so far but I’m aiming for 100+. Gearbox is the main issue ironically. This video has got me thinking about doing a more custom build with printed drivetrain parts and such. A couple things you should do: buy a set of Hoons or GRP tires, lock the front suspension with a nice, ductile nylon or TPU filament, and lower your center of gravity. Make the wings a higher angle of attack, at this size a flat plate performs relatively efficiently compared to an airfoil. Get a much bigger inrunner motor, and make sure it’s rated for your ESC’s power output while providing adequate torque. These are all things I did and my car runs awesome on a good surface. Great work!
Honestly you just need some foam tires, sway bars and less suspension travel. Also needs way more power. But you should not focus big on aero, you just need a wing at the back to keep it straight, but at 100mph you mostly just need power
Nice project, the car is very robust for something 3D Printed and it has interesting features in the design. Some suggestions: - During the acceleration, the car is pitching really hard on the rear and any bump/steering input is causing instability. Probably need slightly more damping on the suspension on the rear. Having more suspension travel on the front will help to keep control of the steering under very hard acceleration. The pitching movement can be improved a bit with an anti-squat geometry (ideally adjustable). - Geometry improvements for stability: adjustable/increased castor (more), adjustable toe on both front and rear - Increasing the wheel base can help with the stability, you can take advantage of this and also move the motor on the front of the rear-wheels.
I love that this design uses outrunner motors. They are so much torquier and hence require less transmissoin. Or even none. I've built up a 1hp/kg RC car with 4x hub motors and it turned out a blast
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation: 00:14 🚗 Michael aims to make a 3D-printed remote-controlled car reach a speed of 100 miles per hour. 00:42 🏎️ He uses the Tarmo 5 RC car design, which is mostly 3D-printed and uses CV joints for consistent speed. 01:37 ⚙️ Michael demonstrates the issues with universal joints and why he prefers CV joints for his RC car. 02:06 ⛴️ The video briefly mentions a sponsor, World of Warships, a PC game involving commanding warships in multiplayer battles. 03:03 🚗 Michael tests the 3D-printed CV joint, and it provides consistent velocity, ideal for high-speed RC cars. 04:13 🚙 He encounters challenges while testing the RC car, including instability at high speeds and tires coming off. 05:11 📈 Michael tests the car's speed using a 4S battery and achieves a top speed of 46 miles per hour. 07:29 🏎️ Michael modifies the RC car's design for higher speeds, adjusting the wheelbase, suspension, and materials used. 08:48 🔊 He switches from straight cut gears to herringbone gears to reduce noise. 09:56 🏁 The improved car achieves a new top speed of 49 miles per hour but crashes due to instability. 10:30 🚁 Michael plans to continue improving the car and aims to reach 100 miles per hour. Made with HARPA AI
Im making an rc car in my shop class with a brushed motor and low power traxxis components. It probably makes a bit less than 1 horsepower and doesnt have suspension, but i got it up to 40 mph on my schools track. It was previously capping out at 30 mph, but the addition of a simple cardboard aerodynamic body made it jump 10 more mph. In conclusion, you could add a body to make it way faster.
I think reducing the suspension travel and moving to stiffer springs would help with stability. Also it would be good to look into foam tires, which are what a lot of the rc speed cars use.
It just needs slower damping, stiffer springs will just increase the frequency of the oscilllations and make it more likely to jump around. Longer travel, the lowest spring rate possible without hitting the bump stops, and a much slower damping setup, the current setup doesn’t appear to have any damping.
i don't understand your point about longer travel, why longer travel would be better ? if you have some demonstration of that it would be very intersting for me as i'm currently studying oscillators. @@gtjack9
Audio guy here, Nitpick, at 1:57 you mention the velocity fluctuating with a sine wave. A Sine wave is a lot less jagged, very smooth and round. You showed something that looked like a slightly distorted triangle wave. Love the video tho, first one I see from you and I will check some of your others :D
Loved the video! Also got a few tips for you: Put a RC Body on it. That would help an insane amount, when it comes to aerodynamics. Buy different tires! These things are offroad tires and not even belted, meaning they expand at high RPM, which isn’t good for stability. Use a proper RC Car remote, not an RC plane one. That would make it way easier to control. Hope this advice helps.
I whould give the front wheels a toe-out and the back wheels a toe-in for greater stability its used in rc buggys. i whould also recommend a set of foam tires or some type of "belted tires" to help whit the expansion or "balloning" of the tires to help whit stability. You migth be able to change so that the wheels are belt driven instead of using gears that whould help lots with the sound and durability of the gearbox. I dont know what oil you have in your shocks but the car could get more stabile if you use thiner oil or thicker oil so that migth be worth looking in to. You migth benefit from using a rear defuser and some more downforce in both the back and the front. And as a last note after a certain point you are going to need belted or foam tires since normal tires will probably explode that i know from experiance but i drive a 1/8 scale buggy whit a motor capable of 55 000 rpm. Best of luck :)
- Try to extend the battery slot so that you can lean the battery position forwards or backward towards the front or the rear axles, this would help greatly in the ballast weight distribution to balance the car. - Aerodynamically allow a bit of change in the front and rear wings for more stability. keep in mind the the rear wing could cause something called drag, so it will slow the car. - Try to add the vertical wing before the rear axle area. - Suspension stiffness is vital for overall stability, mingle with that. - Also the lower the ride height the better it is, is important for traction, but the problem is the the surface you're using is very bumpy. so yeah, keep that in mind.
I would suggest that you make a 2 motor configuration to make more power. It would also be helpful to try and make a rear wing for a bit of down-force on the rear end which will help the car to grip and go faster.
You need to significantly lower the center of gravity if you want it to be more stable. Also you need to center it z and x axys as well. High performance cars have a 50/50 weight distribution from left to right and from front to back, because it keeps the car from flipping as soon as you have to turn the car. Also reduce the weight of unsprung mass, it looks like the car has too much mass in its suspension components. It will help you with keeping optimal grip in any situation. Last but not least, you need different tires, these are offroad/rock climbing tires, what you need is either proper slicks, or what I recommend foam tires.
AWD is going to be essential for stability at high speeds. Also, make sure you have high quality shocks with adequate weight RC shock oil in there. Super cool project, glad I found your channel!
Haven't seen it in any of the comments, but in the 49mph run the wheels are starting to expand, it probably loses a ton of traction when the wheels expand like that.
A little bit of toe in should make it more stable on straight line but also it increases the rolling resistance, also fix the ballooning of your tires and put a shell on it.
I have a bumper idea that will be strong and light. Run some aluminum or carbon tubes all the way through the body, attach aluminum wire bumpers to the front and back with springs between the bumpers and frame on both sides. When you crash into the front, the bumper will absorb the impact into the springs and push out the back, and vice versa for the back. A floating bumper system that doesn’t direct all of the force into your 3D printer frame and instead just transfers the load into the springs in the front and back. Double points if you make the springs on both sides push/pull so both sets will act to absorb impact instead of just one at a time. If my idea isn’t clear, I’m happy to send a drawing or something. Basically I mean this… bumper[spring-vehicle-spring]bumper. With both bumpers attached via two floating rods that run straight through the chassis of the vehicle.
you might want to be careful when going at higher speeds with a gyroscope because you can get unwanted oscillations AKA fishtailing and completely loose control of it. also to avoid excessive tire ballooning you can wrap some fishing line between the threads on the tires or go for some foam ones. good luck and Godspeed!!!
An RC car remote will have to ability to setup trim and sub-trim. When you drive your car it slowly moved to the left and you have to correct it at high speeds, with sub-trim, you can make small adjustments to where the car will go dead straight when you aren't steering either way on the stick. This is a standard setting for any RC car racer for their setups. It will save you a lot of heartache.
Suggestion for easier steering: reduce the maximum steering values proportinally to the car's speed. That way you have way more control of the car at high speeds, as even a large rotation of the steering will only steer the car a little to the side
As a past RC Oval National Champion, speed is all about the less friction you have the better. Your main gear I called it a Spur gear and your motor gear a pinion gear is too big and bulky. Try and modern brushless motor setup with a modern spur gear and pinion, you will be amazed at the results. Also for steering the less steering you have for just going straight would be better, a very slight toe out would make it more stable. The rear arms with 0 degree toe out would be for all out speed, or a very slight toe in for a bit more stability. Also get a modern radio setup with the trigger and steering wheel control, much easier. Now this is all pending on what kind of budget you have. :) I wish you much success.
As your tyres rotate faster the contract patch goes from square to a tiny oval. Meaning you get far less contact area at high speeds. You could buy high speed tyres, 3D print some, glue foam into them to stop the middle expanding, or 3D print inserts you for into the true and run to stop them being able to deform at high speeds.
OK, some Ideas. So for RC cars, it actually pays to have AWD even for high speed builds. You just have more stability and control, if your front axle pulls, hence you can accelerate faster. This gives you a faster top speed before your sight range ends. Also, consider using hub motors (sub 1000KV), they give you a really low center of gravity. They car doesn't flip, it just slides in circles when losing control. And BL outrunners are tough, I couldn't even kill them in sand, snow, dirt, anything. Brawback is the increased unsprung weight, so you need a smooth track to drive on.
I wonder if limiting turn radius based on velocity would be a good idea for stability. This can be some in software easily if you find a way to measure velocity
Maybe you can just use the accelerometer and integrate it. This won't be super precise but it would at least be better. You can probably just get an output from the ESC tho
Try some red tack (Lucas, etc.) on the diff gears. Looks like you might be using a silicone or lithium grease. Also as others have mentioned, you might want to either get some better shocks or try some different weight fluid in them.
I only recently got a 3d printer, it has a tiny build volume (100x100x100mm), but this makes me excited to try and make something like this. I've made various rc cars using Lego technic, so I think I have enough knowledge to now do it fully custom, heh
toe-in for stability on the straights, also your vertical center of gravity is quite high for a car that needs to go straight for highspeed tests. Try to lower it a bit and put some stiffer springs on combined with slightly thicker shock-oil.
This is just the project I was looking for! I just started printing a 3d printed dragster for MRRF 2023 and am looking forward to seeing how fast I can go. I'll be keeping my eye on your journey to 100MPH!!
- You definitely need to switch to foam tires. - Is there any oil in the shocks? The car looks bouncy as hell. If there is, switch to a heavier weight. - Convert it to 4wd, there aren't a lot of 2wd speed run cars around. - angle your wing and splitter so they produce some actual downforce, but not too much. Might as well throw a body shell on, too.
tire blow off was priceless. As a guy who had MANY RC cars using glue on tires is a must for traction and staying on rim lol. This thing is pretty damn cool too! Cool video bud
The right tires are everything in RC, a quick way to get the meat of the science is to watch a few videos on the Bugatti, i think those tires are like $20,000 a piece, the faster it goes the better tire you'll need to keep it on track and then more down force you'll need to keep it from flipping.
as an avid rc person i can give you two tips first is set ur camber in just a little so both tires pull towards the center this is really good for hig speeds but not so good for turning the second is solid tires you can purchase high speed solid rc tires the tires your using are for a offroad truck and they like to ballon out around thirty miles an hour this will pick your rc up and make it very unstable... likley to flip and the tires can explode
What I noticed when you get to the higher speeds, the tyres elongate which is probably why it's becoming unstable at higher speeds. I would consider looking into a harder compound of tyre to try and mitigate that. I'm guess that the tires don't actually have any pressure in them, but I bet if you had a rim and tyre that can take pressure you would eliminate this problem. Now looking at the next video you totally did that lol. Anyways good stuff!
You can move the front upper control arms back and tilt the wheel hub to add more caster. This will make the rc car more stable on the straights. I know it's an rc car, but have you accounted for the Ackerman's principle?
When the tyre balloons the contact patch / grip will significantly reduce. I would look at getting ones with internal re-enforcement if you want to go faster :)
Look I recommend this being part of the 3D printing community and the rc community I recommend you printing the gears with a resin printer it will allow less resistance. Like you said in the video the tires have to be different and lastly if you want you can upgrade the motor
Have the same project going. you'll get to a point where "taking flight" will be an issue. 3d printed parts can explode under certain rpm conditions (rims are not the best to print when going for speed applications. Cant wait for update.
It’s crazy your doing this. I’ve been also printing a few different designs with a speed goal. The biggest problem you will have is stability. I’m on my 4th variation and so far can’t hold straight above 45-50mph. Try drag tires on the rear and smaller up front. Hurts the turning but it goes straight. If speed js the goal you need to get the nose down so wind can flow over.
I speedrun upto 175mph mark at the moment. There’s been some good points laid out by people. A couple more I’ve learned will help you massively. You need banded tires so you don’t balloon the tires. Gets a set of arrma hoons silver they’re good for around 110mph after that they have a tendency to explode. If you go above 100mph you want foam tires. Extend the chassis by a couple inches in length if possibly longer the chassis more stable the car will be. Setup wise, slam the hell out of it so it’s nearly scrubbing the floor. DO NOT have the ride hight level. You want rake on the car so the rear is a lot higher than the front. Because you’re using a rear wheel drive when you punch the throttle the back will squat down. Also if the back is level with the front or drops lower than the front you’re lose the front end of the car. Front splitter is your friend, stability fun down the middle and a rear wing like a bat wing the speed runners use. It’s for side stability not drag on the rear for traction. Print off different pinion sizes as well Welcome to the world of speedrunning. You’re doomed for eternity now.
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Did you notice on the camera when you increase the speed the tires lose grip because they deform? RC fast cars use a kind of a rubber foam tire. Also you can put styrofoam inside the tires, like GoodStuff to avoid the lack of grip.
I found something that should help you build a better car: if you look at some videos of Project air, you will find out that the gyros aren't a good idea for high speed as they have a tendency to be affected by the small socks that the car experiences. The type of tyres that you need are foam one as they aren't really affected by the rotation of the wheels.
And btw, try to lower your car and reduce the amount of air that can go under it, to increase your grip, lower your center of gravity for stabilisation, and but some holes in the side parts of your chassis to try to make it lighter without losing strength
Gearing(big gear little gear)(and if you decide to go like 4 wheel drive rc like you watched on youtube the Diffs gearing) you have way too much torque the tires ballooning up like that says it all your power is on the low end right now. When i first got my electric car rc i didn't understand how to get more top end but it's all up to gearing with electric unlike nitro whereas top needle low needle and idle needle determine the tune sure you could put a bigger brushless/batteries or higher amperage speed controller but then more weight and complexity. As for tires switch to bald like tires and get them nice and hot/sticky or find a smooth asphalt road. Another option is dual high kv brushless cans(plus they tend be much smaller and lighter) so you could get the torque(tire snap) at all speed ranges but you would still have to set the gear ratio.
I recommend you get a hold of a pistol-grip style transmitter. It is far more intuitive for driving; I'm sure it will help you better understand the required control inputs when you're spinning out.
Hi! I've been driving hobby-grade RC cars for 5 years and 3d-printing for 3 so here's some tips:
1. You're right, those are definitely not the right tires for 100 MPH, they are made for a short course truck. They also experience ballooning (which is what happens when the centrifugal forces expand the tire) which caused them to fall off the rims. And yes, they should be glued to the wheels, 99% of rubber tires for RC cars have them glued. For speedruns you would use either foam tires (which have more grip and are lighter, so they don't experience balloning) or belted rubber tires.
2. The transmitter you're using is okay but it's not really meant for RC cars. It's much more comfortable to use a "pistol" type transmitter (for example a Flysky GT5, which you could use with the receiver you currently have.
3. The top speed of an RC Car isn't magic and can be easily calculated. With your setup (6s LiPo, 108mm tires, 10T pinion, 50T spur, 1000 KV (motor RPM per Volt) motor) you could theoretically reach 102.6 kph or 63.37 mph, thats assuming 100% efficiency. The formula for this car (direct drive transmission) is: [((KV*nOfCells*4,2)/60)*(pionionT/spurT)*(Pi*tireDiameter)]/1000*3,6. If you wanna convert it to MPH just multiply the result by 0,62.
4. Unless you have a perfectly smooth surface (like a strip of highway that's about to open) then you need good suspension, that is springs + damping. While the springs make the suspension "soft" or "hard" the dampers are used to make it less bouncy. You can try different hardness springs and viscosities of oil inside the shocks to tune it.
5. Despite what many people say the aerodynamics of RC cars are important. Things like spinning tires generate a lot of drag so it's best to cover them under a body. I'd look at both racing car bodies (from Protoform or Bittydesign) and speedrun bodies (Deltaplastik) and try to design something similar.
There is also a lot of stuff to consider about the suspension setup like caster and toe but with 3D printer tolerances they're less important than the things I mentioned. If you'd like to ask about something, I'd be happy to help.
Top tier comment
Excellent comment. Thank you
Awesome tips!
do you know what kind of ratio the tires are?
Amazing comment of the year, thanks for your dedication and kindness to share this.🎉🎉
Some suggestions in no particular order:
- Design it to have adjustable toe. Toe-in would help a lot with stability.
- Put a good sized vertical fin from around the center to the wing, like the ones you see on 2017 Formula One cars. This would increase straight line stability by increasing the resistance to yaw and steering changes.
- Adjust the steering input to be speed-sensitive. For example: steering output = steering input / speed. Or something to that degree, whatever works best in testing.
- Your suspension - especially the rear - is probably adequate in travel and spring force, but probably inadequate in damping, if those shocks even have real dampers on the inside. Those bumps are making the rear bounce and turn, forcing the front to go that way, which causes it to flip.
- Increasing overall downforce would also help stabilize the car, and make it more resistant to direction changes from caused by bumps.
yes, toe-in is exactly what i was gonna suggest
I would add look to F1 for downforce advice...
also, you need to grease up your fancy ball-bearing driveshaft thing, and also grease up those ball joints. just adding grease would easily add 10 mph to your speed on the driveshaft. adding grease to the ball joints and any other moving parts would greatly improve performance, as especially at high speeds they will tend to "stick" if not greased up. grease reduces friction, which can help reduce wear, but also obivously helps increase movement, increasing performance.
Also, make sure the steering geometry isn’t susceptible to bump steer.
6:54 The tires ballooned. You're gonna need a stiffer set for 100mph.
Wow super cool that you were able to use my design as a launching point for your project. Great video keep it up. Some will tell you it’s not possible but I was told designing the Tarmo5 with the current specs wasn’t possible by a lot of people on the internet. I am sure you can make the design a lot better!
those cv's are super trick, no proper rc company has anything that good yet, just uj's and uj's disguised as cv's
You are great man.
A couple years ago I started down the same project 100mph 3D Printed R/C car.... I started looking at the available R/C car models and prints ultimately started designing my own. Seeing what you have accomplished I will have to start that up again.
@Daniel Toebe : Look out Bonneville... the gauntlet is down... the challenge is on! 😜
You need a smoother surface.
Less suspension also some wire for some sway bars
That's the comment I was about to write. Yeah, that's the number one thing he needs,common sense !
Mars?😅
Naaa he needs to know what he wants to build has the wheels and springs of a small crawler but the wing and splitter of a formula RC
Yeah fr
-Belted tires so they do not balloon
-A body for aero dynamics, at 35mph aero drag increases to nearly rolling drag and air resistance scales with size so it is for sure a factor
Thanks for the universal vs CV joint comparison. This was helpful.
Only using 1 universal is odd.
2 is normal in this application...
Correctly phased.
@@Brettjnash this makes sense too. But CV joints are found on the cheapest of cars, wouldn't universal joints be much cheaper and stronger? But Jeep used universal joints for a really long time, but then again, they were not meant to be in 4wd on pavement, so no power going through them. I bet the difference between the two isn't that much frankly.
It was also wrong but ok
You are right about the Universal joints creating that sine wave type motion. However if you have two (the exact same way the CV joints are setup) they actually cancel each other out completely removing the oscillation. That is why any production RC car the buy uses universal joints and not cv joints.
yes and no.
on the rear, input and out put are parallel and stay that way, neglecting unequal swingarm stuff...
on the front, the wheels steer. theres the imbalanced uni joint. and the last thing you want is your front steering wheels having non-constant velocity.
unless youre a rock crawler and speeds are slow enough to not give a damn.
can always stick them on top of each other coaxially. gets complicated. CV is easier at that point.
a lot of production cars are coming with CV joints now...
That redesign looks sick as hell. Well done on the improvements!
Some Batmobile Vibes for me
As an enthousiast of Rc speedrunning and recent Bambu X1 carbon (& PAHT-CF) owner, you got me inspired.
Some tips:
1. Do really get a surface radio (you'll not need the gyro anymore) Control will feel way more natural.
2. Tyres are everything. There are only a few brand offering foam tyres that can do 120+ reliable. Rubbers give more grip and only a few will do so. Grap yourself some GRP GT-sized wheels.
3. Aero will reduce demand for power. But most lack of aero can be solved by power up to 100mph. You will certainly end up with a 4092 inrunner and a bigger ESC which doesn't limit your amp draw. Batteries (max amp draw and voltage sag) will be the next bottleneck. Do some research on "true C rating"
4. Stiffen up your suspention. Definately the rear.
I think you should get FPV camera + goggles and it will make your driving much more accurate immediately. Also adjust the max steering angle to be less for high speeds: either strongly non-linear control if you can avoid going to the sides during sudden movement or actually limit the steering angles similar to gaming console racing games typically do it.
You don’t really need that it’s a skill issue but he’s new to this stuff just like the Traxxas XO-1 or arrma limited they don’t come with FPV you just don’t need it.
An aerodynamic shell and some more weight or wider tires could give you the stability to reach 100 maybe. Gonna be a fight between friction/drag and stability I think.
Can you post the STLs and BOM list? I like your design and will definitely make one. I would suggest getting the batteries as low as possible to lower the center of gravity. Also look in to either metal gears, or print them form better materials, at least abs or higher temps. Also lube them up! Great build
The carbon fibre nylon would probably be suitable for gears, they usually don’t recommend you use it with other materials due to the abrasiveness but it should be fine with itself, plain nylon is also very good for gears since it is self lubricating. PLA is likely to melt but if you have enough friction to melt other materials then something is wrong.
@@conorstewart2214 wouldnt cf-nylon gears cause more friction due to the chopped carbon fiber inside the filament that results in a rough exterior? it is also very hygroscopic so many lubricants will be absorbed into a gear made of cf-nylon.
@@pooppyybuhhole the carbon fibre would improve wear resistance but may add a little friction. Nylon is very often used for gears, it being hygroscopic isn't an issue. There is also a difference between water and oils getting absorbed. Something like lithium grease works well and doesn't cause any issues. Also nylon is self lubricating so you may not need any lubricant.
@@conorstewart2214 PLA is great for gears except for the very first motor pinion gear. Even then I've used PLA gears on low current motors who's shaft doesn't get warm. There is no reason to use fancy materials...
And for that matter, I'm not sure any 3d printed motor pinion gear for attaching to that outrunner bell is going to not suck. Broke on the layer lines in the video, good luck printing in any other orientation that also won't just split in half.
Universal joint can give you a constant speed but you need two of them. Your suspension is build in the way that the inner shaft is ALWAYS parallel to the wheel shaft. So if you put two universal joints, the will cancel each out. On the test stand you have only one "bend", so the rotation has oscilations, but if the shafts of the gearbox and the wheel are paralell then two oscilations in the universal joints has opposite phase.
Do you think an FPV system like on drones would help you see what is happening and help with control?
Having a pistol grip transmitter will definitely make you feel more comfortable going at high speeds. I would say find a cheep Traxxas style rc and just get use to bashing it around and comfortable driving. Having a gyro compensate is fine but only after getting use to driving it plane. Also be careful of oscillations at high speeds from over compensation. I cant believe how well the printed car held up after that crash and I am so looking forward to seeing you hit +100mph. Best of luck!!
I strongly disagree about the pistol grip transmitter... conventional airplane transmitters are superior in every possible way
@@knoopx never seen any pro rc car racer use air plane transmitter. Your statement is wrong.
@@Theroux1989by the same logic, never seen a drone pro pilot, or any other hobby-grade vehicle at all, using a pistol grip. Conventional transmitters are cheaper, ambidextrous, come in different shapes and sizes, have better hardware like hall sensors with little to no deadband or drift, run on community maintained, always evolving open source firmware, can bind to multiple protocols/bands and even swap modules, including open source, low lattency, long range protocols like expresslrs, can control any kind of vehicle, support all kinds of telemetry data, inputs/outputs/mixing/trimming are 100% customizable. sticks allows for super fine, precise and agile control and are not monopolized by one or two companies that haven't evolved since the 80s. not even a $700 futaba is objectively better than a $200 radiomaster. and yes... I have extensively used pistol grips in the past and hated them so much that went to the extend of reverse-engineering their propietary protocols so I can use my own, single transmitter to control all my rc vehicles...
@@knoopx As a guy that has Raced RC's at national champion level(I got third out of seventeen)
And also flies RC drones and Heli's
Pistol grips are way better on RC cars than stick's because of the way the controls work(have driven RC cars with sticks and it's a pain in the butt)
Drone pilots cant use pistol grips(duh GL flying a drone with only two fully proportional channels)
You dont like them But there is a reason why all pro RC drivers use pistol grips(including my buddy which has been the national Electric and Nitro buggy champion here for the last four years)
@@storm4710 sure, braking control is superior indeed, and although preference is not a technical aspect of it, it also plays a very strong role. thing is people is recommending a pistol grip like it is going to magically solve the car stability issues when it will make no difference and he's better keeping that radiolink and focusing on the root issues.
I would personally recomend a "castle sidewinder" motor as they are stupid powerful even at 3s, also add another motor to the front and make it 4wd, it will be much more stable!!
as RC modelar this was amusing to watch:D The rookie problems united in one go:D haha, you did well!:)
Instead of installing more shocks try using stiffer springs and also use a low drag body
and stiffer oil in them, to increase the dampling
Nope, you want the softest spring possible without bouncing off the upper or lower end stops at full compression and de-compression.
He needs slower damping to reduce the high speed oscillations.
I think drag will not be a problem in a car this size
@@gtjack9 Yeah, heavier oil in the dampers would probably take care of that.
To fix the "de-beading" issue with the tires. You can use a popular drag racing and offroading design called a "bead locking wheels". Instead of glue, it's a clamp.
Nice video! Love to see RC content.
Foam tires will help, the ballooning hurts performance quite a bit. Also, instead of using two shocks, use one but grab stiffer springs and use thicker shock oil. A proper rc car remote is a must too, it's much easier to control. And a better road will improve stability too
The reason your car was spinning out mainly was due to the tires. Even when you are driving on flat ground, the tire still rounds out the faster you go, making your contact patch smaller and smaller. Almost like your tires are turning into bicycle tires.
I think the number one thing you can optimize is the gear reduction, if you manage to get the amp draw the motor with the current setup at diferent speeds you can get a idea of the power/speed curve and estimate the max speed you can hit with this motor (his max power) then adjust the gear ratio to hit maximum voltage and current at this speed (migh differ a bit from theory, but it would be great start) , also try using gears with number of tooth that are prime one with another (=>1 is their only common denominator) to prevent premature deterioration
Other than a smoother surface, you may want to soften your suspension as a common reason for losing power at speed is that the bumps lift your wheels. You may also want to lower the car as to lower the centre of gravity. Adjust your front wheels to some Tow-In, probably about 1 degree. This is not so great for cornering but offers stability in straight lines. Finally, look at adding a shell of some kind. This is primarily for aerodynamics. When you hit those speeds, wind resistance becomes a real factor and especially so if your chassis has areas which are either asymmetrical or potentially look to raise the car off the ground.
Here are a few things you can do to improve the stability:
-Adding some toe-in to the front wheels will help it track straighter. (Toe-out will improve handling in the turn but won't track well) Loose linkages will add toe out, which will cause wandering. For that reason, you should use adjustable tie-rods so you can make adjustments.
-Add 1 or 2 degrees of of toe in on the rear wheels too. This really helps when accelerating, which seemed to be a problem in the video.
-Lower the suspension. Your ride height should be only as high as it needs to be, and since you're running on flats, keep it low.
-Get some better shocks. Losi 22 or 8ight shocks will be MUCH better and still let you have loads of suspension if you want to go offroad. The shocks you have look like they're meant for low speed toys or rock crawlers or something.
-Your springs and shocks should be set up so that there is approximately as much down travel ad there is up travel. That is to say, when you set your car down, the suspension should compress at least half-way. If you're riding at the top of your suspension travel all the time, the wheels are constantly leaving the ground. Having down travel helps keep the wheels on the ground, which keeps you in control.
-Your rear shocks are too angled in at the top. They should be about half way from where they are to vertical. This is part of why you needed to add a second set of shocks - the more angled the shocks are, the less weight they can carry.
-Your front shocks are angled the wrong way. They should be angled more like the rears, but not as much. This matters a lot. Angled in make the suspension progressively more stiff as it compresses, which helps control body roll. Angled out makes it progressively less stiff as it compresses, which makes body roll worse... that's bad.... really bad.
-Move the motor to in front of the the rear axel rather than behind it, and the battery mounted transversely in front of that. This will give you better weight distribution.
-Change your wheels to 1/8 scale buggy wheels. You're using short coarse truck wheels, which are designed for off-road. This will require a different hub, so get the wheels first and design to match.
-Gluing tires to rims is a must... always. clean the surfaces well, and use lower viscosity, high quality CA to penetrate the gaps better and get a stronger glue... don't use the supermarket stuff, it's not as strong. You'll need a good bond if you're going to go 100mph...
-Use some decent tire inserts. This will help keep the tires from deforming as much.
-Get a ground transmitter. The old stick controllers just aren't as good for cars... (It is a matter of preference, but you don't see a lot of stick style transmitters these days for RC cars... by which I mean for the last 30 years or so. As someone who has been doing this long enough to have used both, and even made the transition from sticks to pistol, AND as someone also into RC planes, I would have to concede that pistol is better.)
-I'm not sure what you have for a steering servo, but consider getting a quality steering servo if you don't have one. This will make a night and day difference. You want something with good speed and torque... It doesn't matter how well you drive, or how good your gyro is, if your steering servo can't react fast enough.
This is awesome! I also went down the rabbit hole of 3d printing RC cars and ended up redesigning a traxxas rustler 2wd, reusing the gearbox and drivetrain to create my own 3d printed speed demon. It’s got some reliability issues especially since i run it on 8S, and it’s gotten up to 60mph so far but I’m aiming for 100+. Gearbox is the main issue ironically. This video has got me thinking about doing a more custom build with printed drivetrain parts and such.
A couple things you should do: buy a set of Hoons or GRP tires, lock the front suspension with a nice, ductile nylon or TPU filament, and lower your center of gravity. Make the wings a higher angle of attack, at this size a flat plate performs relatively efficiently compared to an airfoil. Get a much bigger inrunner motor, and make sure it’s rated for your ESC’s power output while providing adequate torque. These are all things I did and my car runs awesome on a good surface. Great work!
Honestly you just need some foam tires, sway bars and less suspension travel. Also needs way more power. But you should not focus big on aero, you just need a wing at the back to keep it straight, but at 100mph you mostly just need power
'Preciate the MJF entrance bgm
Nice project, the car is very robust for something 3D Printed and it has interesting features in the design.
Some suggestions:
- During the acceleration, the car is pitching really hard on the rear and any bump/steering input is causing instability. Probably need slightly more damping on the suspension on the rear. Having more suspension travel on the front will help to keep control of the steering under very hard acceleration. The pitching movement can be improved a bit with an anti-squat geometry (ideally adjustable).
- Geometry improvements for stability: adjustable/increased castor (more), adjustable toe on both front and rear
- Increasing the wheel base can help with the stability, you can take advantage of this and also move the motor on the front of the rear-wheels.
I love that this design uses outrunner motors. They are so much torquier and hence require less transmissoin. Or even none. I've built up a 1hp/kg RC car with 4x hub motors and it turned out a blast
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation:
00:14 🚗 Michael aims to make a 3D-printed remote-controlled car reach a speed of 100 miles per hour.
00:42 🏎️ He uses the Tarmo 5 RC car design, which is mostly 3D-printed and uses CV joints for consistent speed.
01:37 ⚙️ Michael demonstrates the issues with universal joints and why he prefers CV joints for his RC car.
02:06 ⛴️ The video briefly mentions a sponsor, World of Warships, a PC game involving commanding warships in multiplayer battles.
03:03 🚗 Michael tests the 3D-printed CV joint, and it provides consistent velocity, ideal for high-speed RC cars.
04:13 🚙 He encounters challenges while testing the RC car, including instability at high speeds and tires coming off.
05:11 📈 Michael tests the car's speed using a 4S battery and achieves a top speed of 46 miles per hour.
07:29 🏎️ Michael modifies the RC car's design for higher speeds, adjusting the wheelbase, suspension, and materials used.
08:48 🔊 He switches from straight cut gears to herringbone gears to reduce noise.
09:56 🏁 The improved car achieves a new top speed of 49 miles per hour but crashes due to instability.
10:30 🚁 Michael plans to continue improving the car and aims to reach 100 miles per hour.
Made with HARPA AI
Nice , I ll use that
Im making an rc car in my shop class with a brushed motor and low power traxxis components. It probably makes a bit less than 1 horsepower and doesnt have suspension, but i got it up to 40 mph on my schools track. It was previously capping out at 30 mph, but the addition of a simple cardboard aerodynamic body made it jump 10 more mph. In conclusion, you could add a body to make it way faster.
I think reducing the suspension travel and moving to stiffer springs would help with stability. Also it would be good to look into foam tires, which are what a lot of the rc speed cars use.
It just needs slower damping, stiffer springs will just increase the frequency of the oscilllations and make it more likely to jump around.
Longer travel, the lowest spring rate possible without hitting the bump stops, and a much slower damping setup, the current setup doesn’t appear to have any damping.
i don't understand your point about longer travel, why longer travel would be better ? if you have some demonstration of that it would be very intersting for me as i'm currently studying oscillators. @@gtjack9
Audio guy here,
Nitpick, at 1:57 you mention the velocity fluctuating with a sine wave.
A Sine wave is a lot less jagged, very smooth and round. You showed something that looked like a slightly distorted triangle wave.
Love the video tho, first one I see from you and I will check some of your others :D
I have wanted to print my own car for a long time. This definetly is a cool project.
thank you. I thought only thingiverse existed till now. I've checked Printables, and it's awesome!
Loved the video! Also got a few tips for you:
Put a RC Body on it. That would help an insane amount, when it comes to aerodynamics.
Buy different tires! These things are offroad tires and not even belted, meaning they expand at high RPM, which isn’t good for stability.
Use a proper RC Car remote, not an RC plane one. That would make it way easier to control.
Hope this advice helps.
This just showed up in my recommendations and I'm glad it did! I look forward to seeing the play out.
1:14 it's regardless. Man that's my biggest pet peeve. Irregardless is not a word.
I caught that too. Earlier this week somebody used it weird and its been eating at my brain.
I too cringed. I hate when someone says that. You literally lose all points with me, lol.
I tried to make my own cv joints that were 3d printed for my rc car but they kept breaking
I whould give the front wheels a toe-out and the back wheels a toe-in for greater stability its used in rc buggys. i whould also recommend a set of foam tires or some type of "belted tires" to help whit the expansion or "balloning" of the tires to help whit stability. You migth be able to change so that the wheels are belt driven instead of using gears that whould help lots with the sound and durability of the gearbox. I dont know what oil you have in your shocks but the car could get more stabile if you use thiner oil or thicker oil so that migth be worth looking in to. You migth benefit from using a rear defuser and some more downforce in both the back and the front. And as a last note after a certain point you are going to need belted or foam tires since normal tires will probably explode that i know from experiance but i drive a 1/8 scale buggy whit a motor capable of 55 000 rpm. Best of luck :)
- Try to extend the battery slot so that you can lean the battery position forwards or backward towards the front or the rear axles, this would help greatly in the ballast weight distribution to balance the car.
- Aerodynamically allow a bit of change in the front and rear wings for more stability. keep in mind the the rear wing could cause something called drag, so it will slow the car.
- Try to add the vertical wing before the rear axle area.
- Suspension stiffness is vital for overall stability, mingle with that.
- Also the lower the ride height the better it is, is important for traction, but the problem is the the surface you're using is very bumpy. so yeah, keep that in mind.
solid rocket motor on the back ;)
I would suggest that you make a 2 motor configuration to make more power. It would also be helpful to try and make a rear wing for a bit of down-force on the rear end which will help the car to grip and go faster.
0:19 very much fun😂😂
You need to significantly lower the center of gravity if you want it to be more stable. Also you need to center it z and x axys as well. High performance cars have a 50/50 weight distribution from left to right and from front to back, because it keeps the car from flipping as soon as you have to turn the car. Also reduce the weight of unsprung mass, it looks like the car has too much mass in its suspension components. It will help you with keeping optimal grip in any situation. Last but not least, you need different tires, these are offroad/rock climbing tires, what you need is either proper slicks, or what I recommend foam tires.
AWD is going to be essential for stability at high speeds. Also, make sure you have high quality shocks with adequate weight RC shock oil in there.
Super cool project, glad I found your channel!
what a great piece of engineering!
it would also be a good idea to look into belted tires. they don't blow up or expand. great video!
Haven't seen it in any of the comments, but in the 49mph run the wheels are starting to expand, it probably loses a ton of traction when the wheels expand like that.
Fastest 3 D printed RC … love it 👍👍👍good luck
A little bit of toe in should make it more stable on straight line but also it increases the rolling resistance, also fix the ballooning of your tires and put a shell on it.
I have a bumper idea that will be strong and light.
Run some aluminum or carbon tubes all the way through the body, attach aluminum wire bumpers to the front and back with springs between the bumpers and frame on both sides. When you crash into the front, the bumper will absorb the impact into the springs and push out the back, and vice versa for the back. A floating bumper system that doesn’t direct all of the force into your 3D printer frame and instead just transfers the load into the springs in the front and back.
Double points if you make the springs on both sides push/pull so both sets will act to absorb impact instead of just one at a time.
If my idea isn’t clear, I’m happy to send a drawing or something.
Basically I mean this…
bumper[spring-vehicle-spring]bumper. With both bumpers attached via two floating rods that run straight through the chassis of the vehicle.
you might want to be careful when going at higher speeds with a gyroscope because you can get unwanted oscillations AKA fishtailing and completely loose control of it. also to avoid excessive tire ballooning you can wrap some fishing line between the threads on the tires or go for some foam ones. good luck and Godspeed!!!
An RC car remote will have to ability to setup trim and sub-trim. When you drive your car it slowly moved to the left and you have to correct it at high speeds, with sub-trim, you can make small adjustments to where the car will go dead straight when you aren't steering either way on the stick. This is a standard setting for any RC car racer for their setups. It will save you a lot of heartache.
Smoother surface, longer car, and some foam tires
Have you seen the one I 3d printed. Nice video buddy.
Suggestion for easier steering: reduce the maximum steering values proportinally to the car's speed. That way you have way more control of the car at high speeds, as even a large rotation of the steering will only steer the car a little to the side
I want more of this RC car man! Good Stuff!
As a past RC Oval National Champion, speed is all about the less friction you have the better. Your main gear I called it a Spur gear and your motor gear a pinion gear is too big and bulky. Try and modern brushless motor setup with a modern spur gear and pinion, you will be amazed at the results. Also for steering the less steering you have for just going straight would be better, a very slight toe out would make it more stable. The rear arms with 0 degree toe out would be for all out speed, or a very slight toe in for a bit more stability. Also get a modern radio setup with the trigger and steering wheel control, much easier. Now this is all pending on what kind of budget you have. :) I wish you much success.
As your tyres rotate faster the contract patch goes from square to a tiny oval. Meaning you get far less contact area at high speeds.
You could buy high speed tyres, 3D print some, glue foam into them to stop the middle expanding, or 3D print inserts you for into the true and run to stop them being able to deform at high speeds.
Awesome video! Subscribed and looking forward to see part 2 :)
What filament did you use for the car? Was it TPU (any blend of it)?
What gear ratio you have opted for generic bldc motor? How kv the BLDC motor has?
One question, how did you print the rear wing assembly? position, supports etc. thanks :)
As someone who has a couple of old rc cars for which parts are nonexistent, you convinced me to try and look into 3d printers!
OK, some Ideas. So for RC cars, it actually pays to have AWD even for high speed builds. You just have more stability and control, if your front axle pulls, hence you can accelerate faster. This gives you a faster top speed before your sight range ends.
Also, consider using hub motors (sub 1000KV), they give you a really low center of gravity. They car doesn't flip, it just slides in circles when losing control. And BL outrunners are tough, I couldn't even kill them in sand, snow, dirt, anything.
Brawback is the increased unsprung weight, so you need a smooth track to drive on.
I wonder if limiting turn radius based on velocity would be a good idea for stability. This can be some in software easily if you find a way to measure velocity
Maybe you can just use the accelerometer and integrate it. This won't be super precise but it would at least be better. You can probably just get an output from the ESC tho
I am planning on doing this!
Try some red tack (Lucas, etc.) on the diff gears. Looks like you might be using a silicone or lithium grease. Also as others have mentioned, you might want to either get some better shocks or try some different weight fluid in them.
I only recently got a 3d printer, it has a tiny build volume (100x100x100mm), but this makes me excited to try and make something like this. I've made various rc cars using Lego technic, so I think I have enough knowledge to now do it fully custom, heh
If it doesn't have a diff I would recommend one. Awesome work man!
toe-in for stability on the straights, also your vertical center of gravity is quite high for a car that needs to go straight for highspeed tests. Try to lower it a bit and put some stiffer springs on combined with slightly thicker shock-oil.
This is just the project I was looking for! I just started printing a 3d printed dragster for MRRF 2023 and am looking forward to seeing how fast I can go. I'll be keeping my eye on your journey to 100MPH!!
- You definitely need to switch to foam tires.
- Is there any oil in the shocks? The car looks bouncy as hell. If there is, switch to a heavier weight.
- Convert it to 4wd, there aren't a lot of 2wd speed run cars around.
- angle your wing and splitter so they produce some actual downforce, but not too much. Might as well throw a body shell on, too.
tire blow off was priceless. As a guy who had MANY RC cars using glue on tires is a must for traction and staying on rim lol. This thing is pretty damn cool too! Cool video bud
that was the best thing I've seen on the internet! thanks
Do you have a blog or instructables page where we can seethe build process?
How about mounting a FPV camera system - it might help you avoid near misses like at 9:27
Best of luck!
What size steel balls do you use for the cv joints?
Thank you for this.
Ill be buying a Bamboo soon and an RC car is going to be my first project.
Interesting stuff. Smart guy too
The right tires are everything in RC, a quick way to get the meat of the science is to watch a few videos on the Bugatti, i think those tires are like $20,000 a piece, the faster it goes the better tire you'll need to keep it on track and then more down force you'll need to keep it from flipping.
Do you have a list of the non-printable items required? Suspension etc?
Inspiring stuff! Can't wait to see the last leg of your journey when you blow past the goal :D
I paused the video to order some 3 pin xt-60s. Now I'm back. Cool video.
as an avid rc person i can give you two tips first is set ur camber in just a little so both tires pull towards the center this is really good for hig speeds but not so good for turning the second is solid tires you can purchase high speed solid rc tires the tires your using are for a offroad truck and they like to ballon out around thirty miles an hour this will pick your rc up and make it very unstable... likley to flip and the tires can explode
I like that the on car camera makes it look like a 3rd person perspective of a Tamagotchi pilot.
What I noticed when you get to the higher speeds, the tyres elongate which is probably why it's becoming unstable at higher speeds. I would consider looking into a harder compound of tyre to try and mitigate that. I'm guess that the tires don't actually have any pressure in them, but I bet if you had a rim and tyre that can take pressure you would eliminate this problem.
Now looking at the next video you totally did that lol. Anyways good stuff!
You can move the front upper control arms back and tilt the wheel hub to add more caster. This will make the rc car more stable on the straights. I know it's an rc car, but have you accounted for the Ackerman's principle?
When the tyre balloons the contact patch / grip will significantly reduce. I would look at getting ones with internal re-enforcement if you want to go faster :)
Look I recommend this being part of the 3D printing community and the rc community I recommend you printing the gears with a resin printer it will allow less resistance. Like you said in the video the tires have to be different and lastly if you want you can upgrade the motor
I think it's really hot that you included this advertisement.
Have the same project going. you'll get to a point where "taking flight" will be an issue. 3d printed parts can explode under certain rpm conditions (rims are not the best to print when going for speed applications. Cant wait for update.
Do you by chance have a collection of the STL files? I'm kinda dumb on CAD stuff. If not I will figure it out
exactly the same lol
Easy cheap fix for the tires: glue foam to inside of tires and to the rim. Works wonders and keeps weight down.
brother wont your new gears reduce efficiency? compared to the straight cut ones
It’s crazy your doing this. I’ve been also printing a few different designs with a speed goal. The biggest problem you will have is stability. I’m on my 4th variation and so far can’t hold straight above 45-50mph.
Try drag tires on the rear and smaller up front. Hurts the turning but it goes straight. If speed js the goal you need to get the nose down so wind can flow over.
This is way too entertaining. Keep it up!
I speedrun upto 175mph mark at the moment. There’s been some good points laid out by people. A couple more I’ve learned will help you massively.
You need banded tires so you don’t balloon the tires. Gets a set of arrma hoons silver they’re good for around 110mph after that they have a tendency to explode. If you go above 100mph you want foam tires.
Extend the chassis by a couple inches in length if possibly longer the chassis more stable the car will be.
Setup wise, slam the hell out of it so it’s nearly scrubbing the floor. DO NOT have the ride hight level. You want rake on the car so the rear is a lot higher than the front. Because you’re using a rear wheel drive when you punch the throttle the back will squat down. Also if the back is level with the front or drops lower than the front you’re lose the front end of the car.
Front splitter is your friend, stability fun down the middle and a rear wing like a bat wing the speed runners use. It’s for side stability not drag on the rear for traction.
Print off different pinion sizes as well
Welcome to the world of speedrunning. You’re doomed for eternity now.