On my 2011 Tundra it was sticking tensioner. Ran seafoam Oil, Fuel, Intake and has made zero ticking since. Only did the treatment once and no longer add sea foam and is still solid for the past 6 months. Not saying that is the same for everyone but it would be a fast and cheap test. Oh by the way my noise would go and come while the engine was warming up. Once it warmed up it would usually stop.
Great tip. Definitely worth a try for someone experiencing intermittent noise. How many miles on the engine? The tundra in the video got worse as it warmed up.
How did you go about adding the Seafoam oil, fuel? Specifics would be helpful if you don’t mind. My truck has intermittent ticking since about 80k miles and now have 160k. Truck still does it. I have also noticed my oil is low after about 3k. Did you notice that as well?
@@jakedaddy04 So I picked up 2 bottles of the high milage seafoam and one the aerosol cans. I also picked up 2 oil changes worth of cheap full synthetic oil. I started by changing the oil and filter then added one full can to the oil. Then started with 1/4 tank of gas and added one full bottle then filled it up with gas. The last thing I did was use the aerosol seafoam in the intake. I had my son keep the rpm's around 3k while I sprayed it into the intake with the supplied tube. I ran the entire can, then I let the truck sit for about 15 minutes. After that I got on the highway and made a few long pulls to burn up all the seafoam in the intake. It took about 10 minutes before the truck stop smoking from burning the seafoam. Since that day the ticking has completely gone away. Oh and lastly I ran the oil for about 800 miles before I changed the oil and filter again.
@@jakedaddy04 I noticed my oil would get low (1-1/2qts)if I used certain oil brands. Ever since I switched to amsoil it loose about a half a quart in 5000 miles.
My 2010 tundra has the same problem. It's had it for about 8+ years. Took me a while to figure out it was a tensioner. Had multiple dealerships/shops tell me it wasn't worth the money to fix unless I could do it myself, so I left it alone. Truck is now at 325,000 kms and still runs like a dream otherwise. Edit: Also, mine is the same as a lot of others, intermittent until up to running temp, then goes away.
I think a commenter posted on here that he got a quote of 7 grand. The labor rate in this area is $200hr and probably around a 15hr job.@@Enchanted3DPrints
That is awesome! 215K and my 07' ticks from time to time, but not always. I'm going to give the seafoam a shot first and if not, get replacing the chain tensioner. Thanks for the video!
Just had this fixed at a local Toyota specialist shop. While they were at it, they fixed leaking cam towers on both sides. Total cost was $4500.00. Dealer quoted $7500.00 for the same job. $4500.00 included replacing primary timing chain, gears, water pump, belts, hoses, both primary tensioners, and a fan bracket as well as seeping cam towers on both banks. Also, I tried the seafoam fix, and it worked for a few weeks.
$4,500 is without a doubt a lot better than $7,500 but still is armed robbery. I replaced both head gaskets on my 4Runner in less than two days outside with no lift. And I am not a mechanic, shops wanted between $5,000 and $6,5000.
Had same issue on my 2010Tundra Dealer asked for 9800$ to do the VVT and all else Toke it apart ordered all new chains and tensioners cause I didn’t want to risk it since I have high mileage, problem solved 2000$ In parts later .wish you had this video up a few years back when I did mine, would’ve solved my frustration going back and forward with Toyota reps and mechanics.
Oh, so you did fix. Disregard my other comment. Dealer wanted almost ten grand! Knowing what is the cause can be harder than the fix sometimes. Glad you got it fixed and saved a bunch of money.
Great video. Crazy thing is that EVERY symptom you explain even the sounds is exactly what’s going on with my 5.7 Grand Cherokee. Took a stethoscope this morning and listened around. Valves and rockers sound good outside of the normal Hemi tick. As soon as I put the stethoscope up front the chatter was as loud as can be so I’m guessing it’s the same issue. Originally I thought my exhaust manifold bolts had broken again but I checked them and they’re perfectly fine. Guess I’ll take the weekend and rip it apart 😞
I have the hydraulic lash adjuster tick, little noisy on very cold mornings but quite once at op. But good info to know if I start to hear a hard loud klacking noise.
Had same issue on my 2015 Tundra. It was a while before the dealership acknowledged it was a problem. Anyhow I am still under warranty. They replaced the timing tensioner, timing chain, and left variable timing gear. Took it home and after driving about 10 miles, I got a check engine light. Took it back and was told they should have replaced both timing gears. So everything was torn apart again and they replaced the other timing gear. All in all it was like a $5,200 repair I am happy I didn’t have to deal with. Advise!! Just change the timing tensioner and don’t go to a dealerhip for repair!!!
Also I would like to mention one thing that is the biggest cause of time chain stretch and guide wear besides not changing your oil is not letting your engine warm up before driving. Especially in the cooler months. Alot of people will start their car and just start driving while the oil pressure is at a elevated level. So not only is the oil level higher is increases the pressure on the hydraulic chain tensioner. Good rule of thumb is to start your car and wait for the engine to warm enough for the oil pressure to normalize. If you drive while your engine is cold not only do you have more pressure on the chain than at idle it will substantially increase wear during that time. I believe this is why people that know nothing about things mechanical have issues more often than mechanically inclined individuals. IMO. Sorry @raincitywrench for high jacking your post.
@@vlsr71 @Do Work I guess not you. Maybe before trolling you get a better job so you can afford to park your truck inside, that way it only takes 5 minutes or get a remote start. But hey keep pounding that keyboard champ 🏆!
@@ErnestDuarte You sound very sensitive is your name Karen by any chance? I may actually get the remote start though. I just figured with all the bells and whistles on these expensive trucks you wouldn't need to worry about having to warm it up but apparently not.
@@vlsr71 There are a bunch of cars and trucks that have chains that have issues like this. After about 140k its just a matter of time before you have to replace guides and chains just like belt drive ohc motors. I rather have a chain than a belt imo. Chains usually give warning belts leave you calling a tow truck. Almost all Toyota 07 to current tundra's have remote start. You just have to flash the ecu to enable it. My truck has remote start enabled from the factory.
Overall the 5.7 is a loud engine normally but you can definitely tell the difference between before and after repair, I think my 08 with 150k will need this repair soon not to mention valve cover and spark plug tube gaskets.
Its real obvious when the chain starts slapping. Replace the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, tensioners, chains, guides and you will be good to go for another 100K+
I just had sound appear this morning after owning it one week. 🤦🏻♂ Going to tackle it tomorrow. Thank you so much for the video! 👍🏻 I feel like replacing the timing chains and other parts while I'm at it would be good preventative maintenance, but I can't afford to take it too far. My truck is a 2014 with 287000 km.
Lol just bought a 15 sequoia with 210,000kn a few days ago and I just heard the tick for the first time this afternoon. I was ready for it just in case. I did a lot of research before I bought it luckily, or else I'd be tripping right now. Seems to be a very common problem, almost always bank one.
Appreciate that! Back when this vehicle came in I did a quick search on TH-cam for the rattle but didn't come up with much so figured I better do a video to help others.
My 2018 made a bit of a rattle like that on startup when it was cold. I bought used and only had it one winter. Changed the oil and going to see if it happens this winter. Really low miles on it (~4000) so hopefully it was just something sticking and will free up now that I've put a few thousand more miles on it.
Hopefully it's just one of those things. Good luck to you. If noise does return, make sure the metal cage inside the oil filter is not missing on next oil change.
Great video man. Thanks. My 2010 with 220,000 miles has been doing this for at least the last 100,000 miles. But only during warmup. I was told it’s the vvt solenoid. I think I’m going to try the seafoam and see if that helps.
Wow, and it still keeps going. If you want to know for sure then pull the plastic oil filler neck and peek down inside at the chain and tensioner when cold.
Its probably one of the hydraulic tensioners. Mine behaved the same when cold and it went away once it warmed up. Eventually it got worse and made noise most of the time. Both tensioners were sticking and difficult to depress when i inspected them. I think over time, the oil inside the tensioner gets varnished and the plunger gets sticky after 100k miles. I tried seafoam to flush the oil system but it didn't help. I replaced all 4 chains, both tensioners and the 4 guides and both sprockets. The root cause was tensioners. The chains were not stretched or damaged and the sprockets were good. Unfortunately you have to disassemble the whole front of the engine to replace them. That job took 20 hours and i would not do it again if you paid me. I know why the dealer charges so much to do it.
@@Tres-ow7ct I never got an actual hard quote. It was more like 4k-7k ballpark. The work was not easy for sure but I'd rather spend the cash at Hooters rather than my local Toyota dealer.
For all the work involved in taking it apart, you should have changed both primary tensioners. It sounds like bank 2 is a little noisy too. I did all 4 on mine along with 4 chains. The bank 2 tensioner had the same varnished appearance as bank 1. I would also use the Toyota 103 sealer when putting it back together. That stuff is great. If you end up with an oil leak over time, its most likely the gasket sealer failing. That job was so much work I recommend using all the best quality parts and sealer so you never have to do it again. Its not a job for joe average to change all those parts. Good work.
I agree, that job can easily be messed up. I would have replaced chains, guides, tensioners if it were mine but was a trade in & the sales department wants everything fixed cheap as possible. A few posters on here had ridiculous quotes so really pays off to do yourself.
@@raincitywrench117 Yeah, I know they just want the basics done and get it out the door. I don't think most "home mechanics" could do this job period. You need a decent set of tools and some understanding of how the whole thing works to get it done properly. The balancer alone could stop you dead if you don't have a 300lb pound impact gun or a trick to get that bolt off. My impact gun is older and it's probably time to upgrade because mine wouldn't budge it. You can't see most of the bolts, everything is hidden and all it takes is 1 missed bolt to bend or break that timing cover. I noticed several good used ones for sale on Ebay. That should tell you something. I did a video on the job but there are a fair number of things I just didn't capture because filming takes so long and so does the job itself! th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html
GREAT VIDEO, STUBBORN O-RING, ONLY THING I THINK i'D HAVE DONE DIFFERENT, WOULD BE TO REPLACE BOTH TENSIONERS, WITH ONE FAILING I WOULD QUESTION THE INTEGRITY OF THE OTHER, AND YOU'RE RIGHT THERE ANYWAYS, JUST A PERSONAL OPINION,/VIEW, STILL A GREAT FIX IT VIDEO, KEEP EM COMING
Thanks Kevin. This pickup was a dealer trade in so the cheaper it's fixed the better sales dept profit margin is. Also, it was sold before I even had it done. The pickup market up here in western Washington is nuts. F150's are going for 3-4k over list. Anything used in good shape is flying out the door. Our dealer sold over 120 used vehicles in June. Go figure? I'm with you though, if it were my vehicle or a customers then it would get both tensioners, guides and both primary chains especially since it had over 100k. I had never been this deep into a Toyota 5.7 before, the job was a little tricky but fun. I probably will never see another one that needs a complete teardown.
@@raincitywrench117 I feel ya, gotta love the used car department, we have the same issue up here in Alaska, they sell em before we even get them inspected
@@lnl2000 Would love to help you out but I work for the sales department at a Ford dealer. We recondition trade-in and auction vehicles & the Tundra in this video was one of them.
great video have similar issue (chain slap @ cold startup goes away after warmup) with '12 sequoia 5.7L 3urfe engine @333K miles will ask mechanic to change upper tensioner both banks just in case.
Thanks! Yea, those are quite the deal to get back together without messing something up. I'm sure this job has been screwed up bad many times by techs out there 😢
The European and Mexico Owners Manuel recommend 5W30. You’ll be amazed at how much quieter the engine is. The 0W20 is a US Govt fuel economy emissions BS recommendation. You want even notice a difference in your MPG. Also add 2 oz of Marvel Mystery oil for every 10 gallons of gas.
I have this knock and have been to several mechanics who wont touch my truck. Toyota itself turned my truck around in like 6 hrs and said it needed a new engine for 14,000$ (never checked oil, never drove it, nothing) same sounds as this vid in the same exact place. Im willing to try this fix, but, id like to know what kind of damage this causes if left untreated (as i have) for a while. It began making this noise a few weeks after purchase and has gotten progressively worse. Its in a 2012 tundra in primo shape with some nice upgrades and i dont wanna give it up at 120k. I love this truck, it runs mint, but the tick is SO loud now its driving me crazy. Runs perfectly, never an error code, no smoke, clean oil, just KNOCKS all the time. Cant order at a drive thru, can hear it running from my backyard. only gripe with this truck at all. Also, while in there does it make sense to replace any parts other than the tensioner? Would it make sense while there to just swap all the wear parts? Chain, pulleys, etc? I dont wanna do twice.
Tip if your ever putting a timing cover back on like that cut the ends off two bolts and make yourself temporary dowels. This way you can slide it on straight without smearing the silicone all over everything. Even if the engine has dowel pins sliding it over the cut bolts will be way easier.
Another issue with the 2UR & 3UR V8 motors. Early models suffer from defective driver side tensioner. Their supposed to ratchet/ spring back smoothly. Internally the drivers side always tends to lock up. That’s when you begin hearing clanking sounds from the chain slapping around. It’s usually during cold starts. IS F owners have found switching over to Renewable Lubricants motor oil, tends to subside the noise during start up. We have a member who switched to this oil & has over 100k miles. His noise is virtually gone. Great video!
Great video and thanks. My 2007 Tundra 5.7 began making this noise a few thousand miles ago. It has 100K now. I keep it maintained and it's intermittent and will last only a few seconds. At least now I know what the hell it is. Thanks.
Great video thanks! So before you got to what was shown you took off the intake manifold and all the pulleys including the crank pully. Looks like.the radiator is still in. Was it very difficult with the radiator remaining in the truck?
I'm used to working in tight areas & have an impact driver that takes the crank bolt off without radiator removal. If you are doing this job yourself, you will definitely need to remove the radiator.
@@raincitywrench117 i can see experience goes a long way on this job to know the bolts and tight spaces. Thanks again for the video. Gives people a chance to do it themselves.
I have the exact same problem with my 2014. I was told by another video this was the issue. But you provided more details. I’m going to do the whole service, since the mechanic is going to be in taming chain, and water pump area. Thanks Question do you suggest to get OEM parts or aftermarket? 124k
I like OEM parts for a big job like that. I know Ford has complete warranty coverage if their parts are used and something fails regardless of what shop installs them & Toyota may offer something similar.
I just had my 2014 5.7 tundra done with 177k same sound. Replaced timing chains and tensioners 2500.00 bucks. Fixed the issue. Started making the sound on cold morning start ups at 40k miles truck has had oil changes done religiously. After fighting with the Toyota dealership and getting no help i took it to another shop i was in and out. Not happy with Toyota as the truck was still under warranty when i first started asking to get it fixed dealership refused and said it dosen't need done.
That's a bummer. ☹ Some dealers will keep deflecting until the issue is out of warranty. Plus the dealer would probably want twice that amount or more to repair. The good thing is that the engine is probably at half life. Wouldn't be surprised it goes over 300K
So I've read through all the comments and replies. I got this same problem. I'll definitely remove the oil filler and have a look. I'll probably try the Seafoam trick as well. My question is, if I have to replace the tensioner and spend $1000's, what's to say this won't happen again in another 100k miles or even in 50k? I can't sell it with this noise or I'd get far less than the cost to fix so either way it must be done but maybe I should sell it after a year or so subsequent to fixing it?
Have yet to hear anyone say the rattle eventually turned into mechanical failure. It sounds like they will keep running indefinitely while making the noise. Just annoying is all.
Down below you mention looking down where you add the oil and into the where the chain and tensioner are. What exactly would I be looking for and what will I be able to see. My 2014 Tundra with only 74k miles has started making this exact sound and the dealership can’t replicate it since it’s very sporadic. Played them the video I took of the sound and they didn’t have a clue. They are having me run an oil consumption test now for 1300 miles but not sure that will tell us anything.
I would bet money the tensioner is your issue if the rattle sounds the same. The noise in the video would be really sporadic and then one day it started making noise and didn't let up. Remove the plastic oil filler neck, visualize where the tensioner is in the video and then look down inside the engine in that general area at the chain/tensioner to see if it vibrates/jumps up and down when the noise is present.
my ticking is on that side but is random and not rhythmic like that. i saw you tested the VVTs first. Could this problem be because of a VVT issue. i cleaned my and it went away for a few months. i had a pcv valve go bad and after i fixed it, i changed my oil and it was dirty, could it be clogged VVT screens or a VVt failing>
If it is a random typewriter sound then don't be alarmed. Some gasoline and diesel engines can do this right after changing oil. My 6.7 diesel sometimes does this right after changing the oil but goes away after putting some mileage on it. There are tsb's from multiple manufactures, here is one: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10140303-9999.pdf If it clatters hard like in the video then you definitely need to get it into the dealer. If you are able to catch it in the act long enough, remove the oil cap while running and shine a flashlight down in the timing cover, visually inspect the #1 tensioner to see if rattles in the same cadence of the ticking noise.
I've got a 2008 5.7L Sequoia with 210,000 miles that clatters on startup but only if I let it sit for more than 3 days. I don't drive it much because I work from home, so I'll go 4-5 days before starting it and it will clatter from this exact location/sounds louder but similar, and only clatters for maybe 1-2 seconds. After 1-2 seconds it sounds normal and clatter is gone. A few observations I have noticed. 1: If I drive it daily or every 2-3 days I don't hear a clatter on startup. 2: When I use "high mileage" synthetic oil, my clatter happens much more frequent, even after just 1-2 days sitting. It seems whatever high mileage oil additives there are cause this problem to be much more pronounced and frequent. 3: Using regular synthetic with no additives seems to be best for startup noise/less frequent clatter on mine. With NON-high mileage oil I only get the clatter when it sits for longer periods. I'm going to try the seafoam as mine is not doing it all the time, maybe if I catch it early enough I can clear out the passages if that is what causes this to happen. I think this is the second video I have seen where someone replaced the tensioner, then tested the tensioner and couldn't find what was really wrong with it as it seemed to have good tension. It makes me think it might just need cleaned.
Make sure the cage is not missing inside the oil filter housing but you probably already have. With that high of mileage and if the timing components are original then it sounds like the chains/guides are worn. They don't last forever. If original then that's pretty impressive. Let it sit for a few days, remove the plastic oil filler neck and look down inside at the chain tensioner/guide and see if they rattle when someone else starts it up. If so then you should start budgeting for front timing chain/guide replacement if you are going to keep it. Another thing you could do is run one grade thicker oil and see what happens but even if it cures the noise it's only masking the original problem.
@@raincitywrench117 Thanks for the advice. I believe it is all original on mine. When you talk about the cage in the oil filter housing I assume you are talking about the center metal cylinder that has holes, and goes inside the center of new oil filter element? I believe it is in a way sprint loaded as well? Question about your comment on the guides. If my guides were worn then it would make the noise all of the time, or when revving it up? I believe the reason it only does it on start for a few seconds is because the tensioner is not working properly until it gets worked/vibration from the chain. That's my theory anyway. I have not seen any trends of the 5.7L with worn guides, though I suppose this tensioner being left unfixed could cause damaged guides eventually. Can you explain why you think the guides would be worn but only make a clatter for a few seconds, or maybe that's not what you were referring to? After a few seconds, mine sounds like a new car, no extra noise etc. My father owns a 2009 xterra and they are notorious for worn guides/sharp chains causing issues etc. When his guides became worn, it was a slow progression of the vehicle getting more noisy over time, it was more noisy when revving the engine as you could hear the worn guides more, and he had a slight power loss. The noise did not go away after a few seconds, or when warm.
@@jlrosine The chain links, tensioner/idler guides, sprockets will develop a small amount of wear over time. The wear is constantly being taken up by the tensioners. When the tensioners get further extended it appears this engine is more prone to rattling. You should be able to peer down inside the left side of timing cover and see how far the primary chain tensioner plunger is pushed out. If it looks to be pushed way out then I suspect engine tear down is inevitable.
Ever experienced the 5.7 Valve spring break that destroys the engine? I am curious to know if installing aftermarket valve springs would be a better option. I looked it up and hear a few horror stories regarding this engine and i have it in the Sequoia with 170k miles but runs great. I was hoping to get at least 300k miles out of it but if that spring snaps the whole engine needs replaced from what i see on the forums.
I have not. I've only seen a handful of broken spring in my career. Most of the time the spring will crack in half but the valve keepers stay in place. It causes a misfire because the valve won't seat but won't drop into the piston. It's a big job to replace the springs. You may have one break tomorrow or never break. Replacing the springs is an insurance policy and I almost never buy extended warranties. If it were me, I would roll the dice and do nothing. Someone commented in this thread that the key to longevity is to warm up your engine before driving and I have to agree. I warm my engine for a good 5+ minutes each day I drive in the colder months.
@@raincitywrench117 I agree, it does have a remote starter so it's always warming up before being driven. I was thinking of having toyota install new springs since they are a 1 year warranty and unlimited mileage. If i have them do that once a year and one breaks destroying the engine would they not technically be responsible for replacing the whole engine if the springs are still within there 1 year? I want to turn it into an overland vehicle but dropping 6k into accessories vs what could happen is making me think twice. I believe the cost from toyota to replace the springs is about $500 so that is what i would be looking at once a year.
Is this an issue with the newer tundras? I bought a 2019 brand new and it only has 4600 miles on it now. I have the 5.7 TRD sport dc. I only run the Toyota oil in it with the TRD filters. I did my first oil change myself at 2500 miles. Thanks
I have this noise on cold start for 2 minutes then it goes away. was this one making the noise all the time? I'm thinking the dealer duped me in to thinking 10k oil changes were ok. possibly that thing got gummed up by residue.
At first the noise was intermittent but then started rattling most of the time so they had no choice but to have it fixed. The tensioner fixed it and it's never been back.
Holy eff I said when you said the knock sensor wires..my 2015 brand new tundra of 4 months had that happen...now I have the tick tick...you know that motor very well...I don't understand why Toyota hasn't been sued yet it's clear this issues stem for a long time.
Any engine with an open valley under the intake just invites the rodents. Worked on a 6.7 super duty today and noticed a large nest down in the valley. Had no idea the video would get this many views when I originally filmed it. It's like almost every one of these engines will eventually start making the rattle. They are great engines but it's too bad you have to tear half the engine apart to replace one bad component. Good question and Toyota is surely aware of this problem. I have never looked to see if there is a field service action, TSB or something else for this issue. Maybe there is?
@@raincitywrench117 thank you for the information, but they should wrap the wiring harnesses unban anti rodent tape at least, I haven't seen a tsb for that issue..I was told about 3k to do that job
curious how do those tensioners keep tension? I thought it was oil pressure which makes me wonder that when you were turning by hand how are they keeping tension without oil pressure?
You are correct. Oil pressure keeps the tension. There is a cam mechanism and notches machined into the piston that also keep the piston from retracting back when there is no oil pressure. That being said, this tensioner was bad and moving in and out causing the rattle noise. Thanks for watching!
Am I right in thinking that when this problem starts, it begins when the engine is cold and disappears once warmed up? I have a 2012 4.6, 178k, it has just developed a vibration which I thought might be a tensioner or some other pulley on the serpentine belt, but, those spin freely and quietly. Also, have noticed coming off the gas, I feel a very slight step to the rpms, could this be related? Probably time for a new fuel pump, anyway.
The Tundra in the video would rattle cold or hot. Sometimes the rattle would be pretty consistent then randomly stop altogether. By vibration, do you mean rattle noise from engine like in the video or is the vehicle vibrating while driving? The idle fluctuation when letting up on the gas could be from a dirty throttle body especially with that high of mileage.
Rain City Wrench the vibration on mine is not as bad as the one in the video. I would sometimes get a tin sounding rattle upon startup that would last only a second. This might only happen twice a week, so, I thought it could be the start of the chain tensioner going out. The vibration on mine is there in neutral or moving, feels the same through the accelerator pedal as if a loud motorbike or car is passing. I’ve checked the throttle body, it’s clean (had a k&n filter a few years ago and saw the messed that caused on the throttle body, won’t do that again). Thank you for your time and reply, really appreciate it.
My Tundra 5.7 (99K miles) makes the same noise when I start it for a few minutes then it seems to diminish. About how much does it cost to repair it? Is it normal for the chains to loosen this early on? Thank you.
With a $150 dollar labor rate, I would say somewhere around 3 grand. The noise on the vehicle in this video was from the tensioner, not timing chain stretch. The cause seems to be the way the tensioner is designed.
Hi, I just changed the chain tensioner on my 2011 tundra 4.6 and I put everything back together and I started and still making the same noise, I hope someone can help me or have any idea why still making the noise. Thank you.
Make sure the metal cage inside the oil filter is not missing and the filter element is not collapsed. If that looks fine then you may want to have an oil pressure gauge installed and check what the actual oil pressure is.
Boy, that's a tough one. If the top end is starving for oil then that can cause rattling noises. I would start by pulling the oil filter and make sure the inner metal tube is not missing. If it's not there then the oil filter can collapse.
My '07 5.7L has 296,000 miles and it makes a similar noise, but it also runs perfect. I will keep driving it, and only tear it down if the noise gets dramatically worse.
Now I know what I'm fixing to mention may sound like total crap considering I'm going to mention a different engine from a much older vehicle. I had a 94 toyota truck with the 22RE inline 4. I had to replace the timing chain tensioner 3 times 15-20k miles apart due to loud timing chain slap. Noise was very noticable at idle but couldn't hear it at higher RPM's. It uses oil pressure to apply tension. The oil ports were very small and I found that sludge would cause them to plug up, thus not allowing low idle oil pressure to apply correct tension but would at higher RPM'S. I always changed my oil at regular intervals myself so that wasn't the issue of not changing the oil. I finally wised up and found my issue was being caused by a K&N drop in air filter allowing too much dust to enter the engine and mix with oil. Found a crap load of cotton missing on the air filter on its high peaks/folds. Just looked like open window screen. Once I replaced it with paper air filters my timing chain tensioner never gave me issues again. Due to this I never used K&N again and could only wonder how much wear it caused my other internal components. Got another 200k miles afterwards with no further issues with that chain tensioner. So just food for thought. When I saw this issue in the video it brought back that bad memory.
Worked on a bunch of 22R & 22RE's back in the day. Thanks for reminding me, can't remember the last time I checked the air filter on my yukon daily driver. The brand escapes me right now but it's the same type as K&N.
Never heard of those filters deteriorating and shedding material into the engine but now I'm going to look more closely. If overoiled, they are known to coat air flow meters causing low power and other driveability issues.
@@raincitywrench117 I think mine was just a manufacturing issue. I doubt it was sucked into the intake. I'm gonna say a round over a hundred screen squares missing it's filter media. I lived in Phoenix at the time and never took that truck off road. But it does get dusty at times.
Looks like the mileage is all across the board. Some say it started while still in warranty and others well out of warranty. The engine in the video was well maintained and some owners say they have taken meticulous care & it still made the noise. It may just be a roll of the dice to whether it will make noise. I wonder if this issue still afflicts the newer 20-21 engines?
@@raincitywrench117 I had a 13 Tacoma and at 170 000 kms was still running near silent. I did change the oil every 8 000 kms. I used Castrol Syntec because it is cheap at Costco. My new Tundra only has 7 000 kms so to early to tell. I know our Corolla made that buzz sound at cold start and I am sure it was those spring loaded pins rattling. Once oil pressure is there...the pins 📌 are forced out under oil pressure and then go silent. This started at around 300 000 kms. My wife's RAV 4 does this now at just 110 000 but it is intermittent.
@@mikefoehr235 Yep, those corolla's would only make noise on startup from sticky cam phaser pins. From what others say on here, routine oil changes & engine warm up in colder weather are key to longevity.
I just bought my truck 10 days ago and doing this. Should i cut the loss amd trade it in? Everyone on the forums keep saying its normal. 1 guy tonight said if i dont fix, the engine will blow. It rattles hard in the morning byt if you rev it disappears. A few days ago i had a poof of white smoke for 2-3sec. These issues arent realted no? Tensioner issues dont affect combustion is my thoughts.
As far as I know, the noise will not affect reliability or cause internal damage. Read where some have driven with noise for tens of thousands of miles. White smoke will not be related to the tensioner. But make sure you keep an eye on the coolant level to see if it slowly drops over time. This repair can be real spendy unfortunately. I would make sure the correct weight oil is being used and the center metal screen is not missing inside the oil filter housing. www.amazon.com/Assembly-2008-2020-2007-2013-15620-0S010-15620-38010/dp/B08YWSL2KB
A couple of questions please... *How many on the truck? *how often was the oil/filter changed? *what brand of oil and what brand of filter used? Thank you!
I'm not 100% but think it was 135K. Would have to watch back but guess I forgot to put the mileage in. Unfortunately I can't answer the other questions because this was a dealer trade in. It was sent to me for a used vehicle inspection and that's when I noticed the noise. I will say the vehicle has never returned.
Ran into this thread. My 2015 with only 51K miles started doing it. Oil always changed by Toyota dealership, buddy mechanic. It never goes away, not even after it warms up. Gets better at higher RPMs. Thinking the seafoam and new oil change thays worked for some would be a waste??
@@raincitywrench117 going to try just to see. Only thing is been working from home for 2.5 years. Haven't driven it much. Unless like you said the tensioner just went bad
Great video. I've got this same issue going on with a 2014 Land Cruiser. Only 80K miles. Bank 1. Worse when cold and comes and goes on and off as the solenoid seems to energize when idling. Techs could never hear noise until latest visit. Quoted 6K at Toyota dealer to replace chains tensioners phasers etc. My big worry is that the car consumes oil, up to 2 quarts in 10K miles. Worried about fixing tensioners if there is other major engine wear unrelated to timing chains. Big bummer. I am the original owner and have always done all recommended maintenance on the car.
Well that stinks. Have a few comments with dealer quotes between 4-8 thousand dollars which is ridiculous. If I was a shadetree mechanic, would buy the crank puller and tackle job before I ever payed that price. I agree, need to see if the oil consumption problem can be fixed before worrying about the chain rattle. I would recommend doing some research on oil consumption fixes on these engines. Maybe it is pulling oil through the crankcase breather system or the oil rings are gummed up? Not sure if these engines have a pcv valve. Could try running an oil flush solvent though it or seafoam to see if that helps. May be worth pulling the plugs and see if oil consumption is isolated to one cylinder or all of them.
How long can I run my truck with these noise without damaging the engine? been running it for more than 10k miles with that noise only in cold start then the noise goes away after it warms up.
I can't say, that would be a great question for a journeyman technician at a high volume Toyota dealer. I wonder what the end result is? Do they eventually jump timing, break chains, wear off cam/crank teeth? They do seem to keep running a long time even after making that noise.
Could be. Unbolt the oil fill neck when it's making the noise & look down inside timing cover with flashlight. If the chain and guide rattle up & down then that's your problem.
I’m actually in the middle of a teardown for the same issue any tips I’m trying to remove as little as possible just out of curiosity do the belt pulley have to be in time first time ever doing this
There is a large main oil feed o-ring in the bottom of the timing cover, make sure that is in place before installing the timing cover. Lubricate the water pipe o-rings with Sil Glyde (napa) or equivalent before going back together. Leaving the front oil seal off when installing timing cover can help when clocking the oil pump onto the crankshaft. Make sure the block mating flanges are cleaned thoroughly with alcohol or brake cleaner right before installing cover so that way the silicone sticks good. There are small o-rings in the top of the cylinder heads on each side for the vct oil control valves, make sure they are in place before installing valve covers. The belt pulleys do not need timed, pulleys can be in any angle when serpentine belt is installed. You do not need to touch any of the timing chain components on the passenger side. Before removing bank one timing chain tensioner make sure you hold the intake camshaft with some vice grips like I did so the cams do not move. Make marks with a paint pen on the timing chain and cam/crank gears so that way you know it is the same as when you took it apart. Good Luck!
Rain city wrench I’m not going to lie this job is a pain I also don’t know where a certain nut goes any way to send you a photo of it to see it you know where it goes it had to be removed to get the timing chain cover off
I would love to but I don't have one in the shop for that repair now. The hardest part of the job is removing the crankshaft balancer bolt, they are on VERY tight. I start by breaking the fan pulley nuts loose before removing the belt then pull belt, fan/shroud. Next up is breaking the crank bolt loose. I use a power bar just like in this video:th-cam.com/video/urARM2WDokM/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=RainCityWrench Next up I use two pry bars on opposite side of the balancer and gently try to walk the pulley off. If it is really stuck then I break out my puller to get it off. Without those tools it will be really tough or next to impossible to do that repair yourself. Hope that helps.
I’ve got this same noise that just started. I don’t have the time to put into this. How much would this cost at a mechanic? Or worse yet the dealership?
Think someone in the comments had a dealer quote for 7 grand 🤦♂️ It's about 15 hours so if the shops in your area are around $200hr then the labor alone is 3 grand.
Interesting. I suspect a second problem. Need to have the PCM scanned and see what codes are stored. Maybe a camshaft/crankshaft correlation code which could make it lose power or any number of other issues.
Pretty expensive repair. I think it's a 14 hour job + parts. The dealer I work at charges $165 an hour. Depending on where you live, my guess is somewhere between 2-3 thousand $ repair. If your pickup is well maintained, you like it and plan on keeping it then it's a no brainer, I would fix it.
That I can't say because it was a trade in but it could be the reason why the previous owner decided to get rid of it. I think it had around 120k, would have to go back through my comments to remember the exact mileage.
Pull the plastic oil fill housing and look down inside at the chain/tensioner. If it jumps up and down the same rate as rattle then you have a bad tensioner.
@@raincitywrench117 I tried that and it seemed to be holding steady, but when it does it again I'll look at it one more time. Thanks for responding. If that's not it, not sure where I'll look next.
I have a tundra 5.7 with a p0022 and p0012 code only. The engine started making this noise at start up a couple mornings (25 degrees ouside) ago and then it goes away after it warm-ups, then today the codes appear. It runs great and the noise is gone. Any suggestions of where to start? anyone have this issue with your 2011 Tundra 5.7L?? Thank you!
Found this on tundratalk.net, this guy was having the same codes as you and it seems cold weather was affecting it: "I have put roughly 15,000 miles on the truck, and the codes have NOT reappeared. I've been sampling my oil with Blackstone from day one and nothing funny is going on inside the engine (wear wise). I've concluded the root of the problem was the oil from the get go. I switched to 0w-20 synthetic and all the problems went away. I found out after several trips the dealer is using super cheap 10w-30 bulk oil. The oil is the only variable to change. I've waited through the cold months for it to pop up again because that's when the symptoms started. Maybe I just have a picky truck, who knows but I'm not complaining because the problem is gone." I would flush the engine oil, change the oil filter checking to make sure the metal center tube is not missing and the filter is collapsed, fill with quality 0w-20 oil, clear codes and drive. I bet this saves you $3000,00. Good luck.
@@raincitywrench117 Thank you so much for the reply. Interestingly enough everything started 50 miles after I took the truck to the dealership for an oil change (they put 5w20 non-synthetic). I decided to follow your advice and do an oil flush, and use 0w20 synthetic oil. To my surprise, the oil filter was completely collapsed wth?? the tech at the Toyota dealer forgot to place the tube back ??? I went ahead and bought a new oil housing cap and tube from the local store ($29), replaced the oil, filter, and cleared the codes. 150+ miles later no check engine light, no more ticking noises, runs smoother and quieter. Thank you for your knowledge. You gain a new subscriber!!!
@@aleazp123 Cool! Glad you got it fixed up. The lube jockey dropped the housing and broke the tube out or something but obviously wasn't paying attention when installing the new filter. Makes me wonder how many times this has happened to Toyota owners through the years costing them time, grief and money? Take care.
Monica was unstoppable by early 1993 and likely would have won 2 more grand slams that year plus 3 more in 1994 and 1995. She also was so determined she would eventually have captured a Wimbledon title. Its so sad that Seles and the entire tennis world were robbed of seeing Seles in her prime.
My 2012 does this at idle until it gets up to operating temp. But it's not constant the "knock" starts and stops when it does it. Been doing it for years still no major issues 🤷🏻♂️
@@raincitywrench117 yes it is very annoying but mine only does it off and on until the engine hits operating temperature then the noise goes away completely
I have a tundra 5.7 with a p0014 code only. Engine doesn’t make this noise. Any suggestions of where to start? I called numerous dealerships around the country and heard a drastic difference in approach. I hear things like check vvt system and vvt filters and others said check timing chain stretch. I thought stretch would cause valve timing retard but my code is advanced
That's an exhaust cam over advanced bank 1. Swap the oil control valves on the driver side valve cover, clear codes and drive. If code returns but switches to the intake cam then you know you have a bad oil control valve. If code stays the same then swap the cam position sensors and repeat to check for bad sensor. If P0014 just keeps coming back then it's most likely inside the engine. Pull driver valve cover, roll engine over until timing marks line up and thoroughly inspect to see if chain jumped. Also look down inside timing cover to see how far the tensioner is pushed out. If tensioner is pushed most of the way out then the chain is stretched.
@@raincitywrench117 also I’m curious of your opinion on driving the truck on a long road trip. It runs well and engine is quiet during warm up and at operating temp. In my experience a catastrophic timing chain failure would make some noise first. With this p0014 code but a nice quiet and strong running engine, would you tow a camper on a 3200 mile round trip? It has 139k miles. Runs and shifts great and I’ve kept up with all fluids during the time I’ve owned it.
I changed my oil recently at 5100 miles on my 19 Tundra and now notice this tapping sound. I’m shocked .... should I take it to the dealer? I have an extended warranty
If it is a random typewriter sound then don't be alarmed. Some gasoline and diesel engines can do this right after changing oil. My 6.7 diesel sometimes does this right after changing the oil but goes away after putting some mileage on it. There are tsb's from multiple manufactures, here is one: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10140303-9999.pdf If it clatters hard like in the video then you definitely need to get it into the dealer.
@@raincitywrench117 thanks for your reply! I changed the oil about 2-3 weeks ago and noticed the typewriter sound at start up then it went away. Now weeks later I hear it on occasion at startup but it gradually goes away as the engine warms up but I still do hear a tap here and there at idle, is that still ok? Thanks for your help and reassurance!
@@raincitywrench117 I just started up the engine this morning after letting the car sit overnight and had no wierd noises. Everything sounded normal, but I will keep an eye on it.
@@NYC-2-BKK No problem. It sure sounds like the typewriter tsb from what you describe. My diesel can take 500-1000 miles for it to stop ticking at idle, that is if it starts to make noise at all. It is so random. E did a seafoam oil treatment that cured his noise, pinned it to the top of comments.
Here is my reply to Josh Slacker: "I bet it is the tensioner. The Tundra in the video would do it randomly, sometimes at an idle, sometimes after cold start, other times it would take an hour. Definitely no rhyme or reason."
Was this Tundra doing it full-time? Just at startup? Or randomly? Mine does it sometimes at startup. It also does it at idle sometimes. Can get pretty loud if I'm in a Drive-Thru up against the wall where the sound bounces back. Sometimes it won't do it for a week. Its been happening for a few years now. Very bizarre 2010 5.7 with 172k.
I bet it is the tensioner. The Tundra in the video would do it randomly, sometimes at an idle, sometimes after cold start, other times it would take an hour. Definitely no rhyme or reason.
I pulled all of the VVT solenoids and every one of them would stick open after I would energize it. Clean them all up until they actuated buttery smooth. My thought was that if the valves hang then oil pressure is going to the phasers at startup and starving the tensioner for a bit. Put everything back together and had a few solid days of no noise. Then it started doing it again. It must be the tensioner...FML.
@@Mtbslacker The next time it starts making noise, remove the oil cap and look way down inside with a flashlight at the bank one tensioner. If you see the chain slapping up and down quickly then that is the cause.
@@raincitywrench117 www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~tensioner~assy~chai~13540-0s022.html?vin=5TFUW5F13FX454711&make=Toyota&model=Tundra&year=2015&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=() is this the one from your video?
I don't see a problem with that. I use Motorcraft TA-30 or TA-31. The key is clean all oil off the mating flanges right before assembly. I use a clean terry cloth soaked in alcohol to wipe the surfaces. After engine final assembly, I like to let sit overnight for silicone to set up. Also make sure the pipe o-rings are lubed with sil-glyde. Never use petroleum jelly or regular grease as it can swell seals.
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On my 2011 Tundra it was sticking tensioner. Ran seafoam Oil, Fuel, Intake and has made zero ticking since. Only did the treatment once and no longer add sea foam and is still solid for the past 6 months. Not saying that is the same for everyone but it would be a fast and cheap test. Oh by the way my noise would go and come while the engine was warming up. Once it warmed up it would usually stop.
Great tip. Definitely worth a try for someone experiencing intermittent noise. How many miles on the engine? The tundra in the video got worse as it warmed up.
@@raincitywrench117 My tundra has 160k.
How did you go about adding the Seafoam oil, fuel? Specifics would be helpful if you don’t mind. My truck has intermittent ticking since about 80k miles and now have 160k. Truck still does it. I have also noticed my oil is low after about 3k. Did you notice that as well?
@@jakedaddy04 So I picked up 2 bottles of the high milage seafoam and one the aerosol cans. I also picked up 2 oil changes worth of cheap full synthetic oil. I started by changing the oil and filter then added one full can to the oil. Then started with 1/4 tank of gas and added one full bottle then filled it up with gas. The last thing I did was use the aerosol seafoam in the intake. I had my son keep the rpm's around 3k while I sprayed it into the intake with the supplied tube. I ran the entire can, then I let the truck sit for about 15 minutes. After that I got on the highway and made a few long pulls to burn up all the seafoam in the intake. It took about 10 minutes before the truck stop smoking from burning the seafoam. Since that day the ticking has completely gone away. Oh and lastly I ran the oil for about 800 miles before I changed the oil and filter again.
@@jakedaddy04 I noticed my oil would get low (1-1/2qts)if I used certain oil brands. Ever since I switched to amsoil it loose about a half a quart in 5000 miles.
Thank you RCW. Great video and gives me confirmation of nasty noise.
Good fix. I normally replace chain and guides as well, especially on a higher mileage engine! Messy tedious job, but worth the money for the customer.
My 2010 tundra has the same problem. It's had it for about 8+ years. Took me a while to figure out it was a tensioner. Had multiple dealerships/shops tell me it wasn't worth the money to fix unless I could do it myself, so I left it alone. Truck is now at 325,000 kms and still runs like a dream otherwise. Edit: Also, mine is the same as a lot of others, intermittent until up to running temp, then goes away.
That seems to be what everyone says. Haven't heard where the rattle noise leads to catastrophic failure.
Great call, fixed the problem and saved the customer a bunch of money.
Thanks. Even better, this was a trade in so I saved the sales department a bundle of money and they are my boss. LOL
@@raincitywrench117 what would be the cost? tensioner is cheap but labor looks like quite a bit
I think a commenter posted on here that he got a quote of 7 grand. The labor rate in this area is $200hr and probably around a 15hr job.@@Enchanted3DPrints
That is awesome! 215K and my 07' ticks from time to time, but not always. I'm going to give the seafoam a shot first and if not, get replacing the chain tensioner. Thanks for the video!
👍It just may work
Just had this fixed at a local Toyota specialist shop. While they were at it, they fixed leaking cam towers on both sides. Total cost was $4500.00. Dealer quoted $7500.00 for the same job. $4500.00 included replacing primary timing chain, gears, water pump, belts, hoses, both primary tensioners, and a fan bracket as well as seeping cam towers on both banks. Also, I tried the seafoam fix, and it worked for a few weeks.
7500 is almost criminal. Some shops throw out huge estimates and see what sticks. Sounds like you got a pretty good deal to me.
That's the price of am entirely rebuilt motor
$4,500 is without a doubt a lot better than $7,500 but still is armed robbery. I replaced both head gaskets on my 4Runner in less than two days outside with no lift. And I am not a mechanic, shops wanted between $5,000 and $6,5000.
Great video! Thank you for making this. Need to do this really to my 2013 5.7 245k engine.
Awesome and informative video. Helps me out tremendously with my 2012 Tundra. Thank you! New subscriber 👊🏻👊🏻💯✔️
Thank You! These are great engines. Some of them are affected with this rattle unfortunately. Get the #1 tensioner replaced and it's all good.
Great video, thanks. My 2007 tundra just started making that noise.
How many miles on it?
Had same issue on my 2010Tundra
Dealer asked for 9800$ to do the VVT and all else
Toke it apart ordered all new chains and tensioners cause I didn’t want to risk it since I have high mileage, problem solved 2000$ In parts later .wish you had this video up a few years back when I did mine, would’ve solved my frustration going back and forward with Toyota reps and mechanics.
Oh, so you did fix. Disregard my other comment. Dealer wanted almost ten grand! Knowing what is the cause can be harder than the fix sometimes. Glad you got it fixed and saved a bunch of money.
Great video. Crazy thing is that EVERY symptom you explain even the sounds is exactly what’s going on with my 5.7 Grand Cherokee. Took a stethoscope this morning and listened around. Valves and rockers sound good outside of the normal Hemi tick. As soon as I put the stethoscope up front the chatter was as loud as can be so I’m guessing it’s the same issue. Originally I thought my exhaust manifold bolts had broken again but I checked them and they’re perfectly fine. Guess I’ll take the weekend and rip it apart 😞
Bummer. Wonder if it's the vvt actuator on the front of the camshaft?
I have the hydraulic lash adjuster tick, little noisy on very cold mornings but quite once at op. But good info to know if I start to hear a hard loud klacking noise.
Had same issue on my 2015 Tundra. It was a while before the dealership acknowledged it was a problem. Anyhow I am still under warranty. They replaced the timing tensioner, timing chain, and left variable timing gear. Took it home and after driving about 10 miles, I got a check engine light. Took it back and was told they should have replaced both timing gears. So everything was torn apart again and they replaced the other timing gear. All in all it was like a $5,200 repair I am happy I didn’t have to deal with. Advise!! Just change the timing tensioner and don’t go to a dealerhip for repair!!!
Very nice! I wonder if they had one of the cams off a tooth on the first repair? As long as they have it fixed now.
So much for Toyota quality that’s why I drive fords I’ve put so many miles no issues
@@jayg3183 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 Ok buddy.
Also I would like to mention one thing that is the biggest cause of time chain stretch and guide wear besides not changing your oil is not letting your engine warm up before driving. Especially in the cooler months. Alot of people will start their car and just start driving while the oil pressure is at a elevated level. So not only is the oil level higher is increases the pressure on the hydraulic chain tensioner. Good rule of thumb is to start your car and wait for the engine to warm enough for the oil pressure to normalize. If you drive while your engine is cold not only do you have more pressure on the chain than at idle it will substantially increase wear during that time. I believe this is why people that know nothing about things mechanical have issues more often than mechanically inclined individuals. IMO. Sorry @raincitywrench for high jacking your post.
But who has time to sit in their truck to wait for it to warm up for 10 to 15 minutes? Because 5 minutes just doesn't do it.
@@vlsr71 @Do Work I guess not you. Maybe before trolling you get a better job so you can afford to park your truck inside, that way it only takes 5 minutes or get a remote start. But hey keep pounding that keyboard champ 🏆!
@@ErnestDuarte You sound very sensitive is your name Karen by any chance? I may actually get the remote start though. I just figured with all the bells and whistles on these expensive trucks you wouldn't need to worry about having to warm it up but apparently not.
@@vlsr71 There are a bunch of cars and trucks that have chains that have issues like this. After about 140k its just a matter of time before you have to replace guides and chains just like belt drive ohc motors. I rather have a chain than a belt imo. Chains usually give warning belts leave you calling a tow truck. Almost all Toyota 07 to current tundra's have remote start. You just have to flash the ecu to enable it. My truck has remote start enabled from the factory.
@@ErnestDuarte if what you are saying is true then you are saying my 07 5.7 tundra limited crew has it already😲??
How would I use it or flash the ecu?
Love rain city wrench! Thanks mat
U R welcome. Appreciate That!
most excellent video.!!
Overall the 5.7 is a loud engine normally but you can definitely tell the difference between before and after repair, I think my 08 with 150k will need this repair soon not to mention valve cover and spark plug tube gaskets.
Its real obvious when the chain starts slapping. Replace the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, tensioners, chains, guides and you will be good to go for another 100K+
Fantastic informative video sir thank you 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
My pleasure
I just had sound appear this morning after owning it one week. 🤦🏻♂ Going to tackle it tomorrow. Thank you so much for the video! 👍🏻
I feel like replacing the timing chains and other parts while I'm at it would be good preventative maintenance, but I can't afford to take it too far. My truck is a 2014 with 287000 km.
Lol just bought a 15 sequoia with 210,000kn a few days ago and I just heard the tick for the first time this afternoon. I was ready for it just in case. I did a lot of research before I bought it luckily, or else I'd be tripping right now. Seems to be a very common problem, almost always bank one.
Best 57 rattle video on TH-cam
Thank you
Appreciate that! Back when this vehicle came in I did a quick search on TH-cam for the rattle but didn't come up with much so figured I better do a video to help others.
@@raincitywrench117 thank you
My 2018 made a bit of a rattle like that on startup when it was cold. I bought used and only had it one winter. Changed the oil and going to see if it happens this winter. Really low miles on it (~4000) so hopefully it was just something sticking and will free up now that I've put a few thousand more miles on it.
Hopefully it's just one of those things. Good luck to you. If noise does return, make sure the metal cage inside the oil filter is not missing on next oil change.
Great video man. Thanks. My 2010 with 220,000 miles has been doing this for at least the last 100,000 miles. But only during warmup. I was told it’s the vvt solenoid. I think I’m going to try the seafoam and see if that helps.
Wow, and it still keeps going. If you want to know for sure then pull the plastic oil filler neck and peek down inside at the chain and tensioner when cold.
Its probably one of the hydraulic tensioners. Mine behaved the same when cold and it went away once it warmed up. Eventually it got worse and made noise most of the time. Both tensioners were sticking and difficult to depress when i inspected them. I think over time, the oil inside the tensioner gets varnished and the plunger gets sticky after 100k miles. I tried seafoam to flush the oil system but it didn't help. I replaced all 4 chains, both tensioners and the 4 guides and both sprockets. The root cause was tensioners. The chains were not stretched or damaged and the sprockets were good. Unfortunately you have to disassemble the whole front of the engine to replace them. That job took 20 hours and i would not do it again if you paid me. I know why the dealer charges so much to do it.
@@danmccarthy206 20 hrs…..wow! Do you remember the dealer’s quote?
@@Tres-ow7ct I never got an actual hard quote. It was more like 4k-7k ballpark. The work was not easy for sure but I'd rather spend the cash at Hooters rather than my local Toyota dealer.
@@danmccarthy206 I agree, but I’m sweating it a little. Thank you for the reply! …..and such a quick reply.
For all the work involved in taking it apart, you should have changed both primary tensioners. It sounds like bank 2 is a little noisy too. I did all 4 on mine along with 4 chains. The bank 2 tensioner had the same varnished appearance as bank 1. I would also use the Toyota 103 sealer when putting it back together. That stuff is great. If you end up with an oil leak over time, its most likely the gasket sealer failing. That job was so much work I recommend using all the best quality parts and sealer so you never have to do it again. Its not a job for joe average to change all those parts. Good work.
I agree, that job can easily be messed up. I would have replaced chains, guides, tensioners if it were mine but was a trade in & the sales department wants everything fixed cheap as possible. A few posters on here had ridiculous quotes so really pays off to do yourself.
@@raincitywrench117 Yeah, I know they just want the basics done and get it out the door. I don't think most "home mechanics" could do this job period. You need a decent set of tools and some understanding of how the whole thing works to get it done properly. The balancer alone could stop you dead if you don't have a 300lb pound impact gun or a trick to get that bolt off. My impact gun is older and it's probably time to upgrade because mine wouldn't budge it. You can't see most of the bolts, everything is hidden and all it takes is 1 missed bolt to bend or break that timing cover. I noticed several good used ones for sale on Ebay. That should tell you something. I did a video on the job but there are a fair number of things I just didn't capture because filming takes so long and so does the job itself! th-cam.com/video/CEwUC7cxGz8/w-d-xo.html
@@danmccarthy206 Yea, more things that could wrong then right on a job like this for the novice tech or do it yourselfer
GREAT VIDEO, STUBBORN O-RING, ONLY THING I THINK i'D HAVE DONE DIFFERENT, WOULD BE TO REPLACE BOTH TENSIONERS, WITH ONE FAILING I WOULD QUESTION THE INTEGRITY OF THE OTHER, AND YOU'RE RIGHT THERE ANYWAYS, JUST A PERSONAL OPINION,/VIEW, STILL A GREAT FIX IT VIDEO, KEEP EM COMING
Thanks Kevin. This pickup was a dealer trade in so the cheaper it's fixed the better sales dept profit margin is. Also, it was sold before I even had it done. The pickup market up here in western Washington is nuts. F150's are going for 3-4k over list. Anything used in good shape is flying out the door. Our dealer sold over 120 used vehicles in June. Go figure? I'm with you though, if it were my vehicle or a customers then it would get both tensioners, guides and both primary chains especially since it had over 100k. I had never been this deep into a Toyota 5.7 before, the job was a little tricky but fun. I probably will never see another one that needs a complete teardown.
@@raincitywrench117 I feel ya, gotta love the used car department, we have the same issue up here in Alaska, they sell em before we even get them inspected
@@raincitywrench117 want to do mine, I’m here in great NW as well and need this done on my 5.7 Sequoia?
@@lnl2000 Would love to help you out but I work for the sales department at a Ford dealer. We recondition trade-in and auction vehicles & the Tundra in this video was one of them.
@@raincitywrench117 I understand, thanks for that video👍🏻
great video have similar issue (chain slap @ cold startup goes away after warmup) with '12 sequoia 5.7L 3urfe engine @333K miles will ask mechanic to change upper tensioner both banks just in case.
That's a ton of miles. If maintained, those engines just keep going.
At 4:20 my man nice job putting the timing chain cover on with all that EVT like material. Very careful and methodical!
Thanks! Yea, those are quite the deal to get back together without messing something up. I'm sure this job has been screwed up bad many times by techs out there 😢
The European and Mexico Owners Manuel recommend 5W30. You’ll be amazed at how much quieter the engine is. The 0W20 is a US Govt fuel economy emissions BS recommendation. You want even notice a difference in your MPG. Also add 2 oz of Marvel Mystery oil for every 10 gallons of gas.
There is no tundras in Mexico nor Europe
0w20 has nothing to do with emissions, not does any oil. It's purely viscosity and 0w and 5w have the same viscosity at OT.
@@ricardovillegas1818 I've seen them all over Ukraine now!
Wow that is a pretty clean engine.....how many miles? looks really well taken care of to have timing chain
issues.
The owner definitely kept up on their oil changes for sure, just one of those things I guess. Engine had 136K
I have this knock and have been to several mechanics who wont touch my truck. Toyota itself turned my truck around in like 6 hrs and said it needed a new engine for 14,000$ (never checked oil, never drove it, nothing) same sounds as this vid in the same exact place. Im willing to try this fix, but, id like to know what kind of damage this causes if left untreated (as i have) for a while. It began making this noise a few weeks after purchase and has gotten progressively worse. Its in a 2012 tundra in primo shape with some nice upgrades and i dont wanna give it up at 120k. I love this truck, it runs mint, but the tick is SO loud now its driving me crazy. Runs perfectly, never an error code, no smoke, clean oil, just KNOCKS all the time. Cant order at a drive thru, can hear it running from my backyard. only gripe with this truck at all.
Also, while in there does it make sense to replace any parts other than the tensioner? Would it make sense while there to just swap all the wear parts? Chain, pulleys, etc? I dont wanna do twice.
Tip if your ever putting a timing cover back on like that cut the ends off two bolts and make yourself temporary dowels. This way you can slide it on straight without smearing the silicone all over everything. Even if the engine has dowel pins sliding it over the cut bolts will be way easier.
Great tip!
Another issue with the 2UR & 3UR V8 motors. Early models suffer from defective driver side tensioner. Their supposed to ratchet/ spring back smoothly. Internally the drivers side always tends to lock up. That’s when you begin hearing clanking sounds from the chain slapping around. It’s usually during cold starts. IS F owners have found switching over to Renewable Lubricants motor oil, tends to subside the noise during start up. We have a member who switched to this oil & has over 100k miles. His noise is virtually gone. Great video!
I have the same problem and I knew it was something to with the timing tensioner. It only happens once in a while tho.🙄🙄 I got to change it soon.
Well, at least you know what it is. Thanks for watching.
Great video and thanks. My 2007 Tundra 5.7 began making this noise a few thousand miles ago. It has 100K now. I keep it maintained and it's intermittent and will last only a few seconds. At least now I know what the hell it is. Thanks.
Right on! I was hoping this video would help others.
Great video thanks! So before you got to what was shown you took off the intake manifold and all the pulleys including the crank pully. Looks like.the radiator is still in. Was it very difficult with the radiator remaining in the truck?
I'm used to working in tight areas & have an impact driver that takes the crank bolt off without radiator removal. If you are doing this job yourself, you will definitely need to remove the radiator.
@@raincitywrench117 i can see experience goes a long way on this job to know the bolts and tight spaces. Thanks again for the video. Gives people a chance to do it themselves.
I have the exact same problem with my 2014. I was told by another video this was the issue. But you provided more details. I’m going to do the whole service, since the mechanic is going to be in taming chain, and water pump area. Thanks
Question do you suggest to get OEM parts or aftermarket? 124k
I like OEM parts for a big job like that. I know Ford has complete warranty coverage if their parts are used and something fails regardless of what shop installs them & Toyota may offer something similar.
My '13 sequoia, 100,000 miles, is doing this right now and its loud as hell. Especially when it's cold. CEL just came on. Gotta take it in
Good Luck
What was the light on for
What code was the CEL
I just had my 2014 5.7 tundra done with 177k same sound. Replaced timing chains and tensioners 2500.00 bucks. Fixed the issue. Started making the sound on cold morning start ups at 40k miles truck has had oil changes done religiously. After fighting with the Toyota dealership and getting no help i took it to another shop i was in and out. Not happy with Toyota as the truck was still under warranty when i first started asking to get it fixed dealership refused and said it dosen't need done.
That's a bummer. ☹ Some dealers will keep deflecting until the issue is out of warranty. Plus the dealer would probably want twice that amount or more to repair. The good thing is that the engine is probably at half life. Wouldn't be surprised it goes over 300K
thanks for the video. Alldata is basically useless. the worst part is removing all the parts that bold to the cover.
I'm with you. I basically winged it when it came to the cover. Getting the timing cover off, cleaned and carefully reinstalled is a pain.
Thank you so much sir
Most welcome
So I've read through all the comments and replies. I got this same problem. I'll definitely remove the oil filler and have a look. I'll probably try the Seafoam trick as well. My question is, if I have to replace the tensioner and spend $1000's, what's to say this won't happen again in another 100k miles or even in 50k? I can't sell it with this noise or I'd get far less than the cost to fix so either way it must be done but maybe I should sell it after a year or so subsequent to fixing it?
I can't say how long the replacement tensioner lasts but I think it's a good gamble to fix it.
My 2013 tundra has over 290k miles on it. It has had this sound since about 100k. I never knew what it was. I guess I’m going to have to replace it.
Have yet to hear anyone say the rattle eventually turned into mechanical failure. It sounds like they will keep running indefinitely while making the noise. Just annoying is all.
Down below you mention looking down where you add the oil and into the where the chain and tensioner are. What exactly would I be looking for and what will I be able to see. My 2014 Tundra with only 74k miles has started making this exact sound and the dealership can’t replicate it since it’s very sporadic. Played them the video I took of the sound and they didn’t have a clue. They are having me run an oil consumption test now for 1300 miles but not sure that will tell us anything.
I would bet money the tensioner is your issue if the rattle sounds the same. The noise in the video would be really sporadic and then one day it started making noise and didn't let up.
Remove the plastic oil filler neck, visualize where the tensioner is in the video and then look down inside the engine in that general area at the chain/tensioner to see if it vibrates/jumps up and down when the noise is present.
my ticking is on that side but is random and not rhythmic like that. i saw you tested the VVTs first. Could this problem be because of a VVT issue. i cleaned my and it went away for a few months. i had a pcv valve go bad and after i fixed it, i changed my oil and it was dirty, could it be clogged VVT screens or a VVt failing>
If it is a random typewriter sound then don't be alarmed. Some gasoline and diesel engines can do this right after changing oil. My 6.7 diesel sometimes does this right after changing the oil but goes away after putting some mileage on it. There are tsb's from multiple manufactures, here is one: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10140303-9999.pdf
If it clatters hard like in the video then you definitely need to get it into the dealer.
If you are able to catch it in the act long enough, remove the oil cap while running and shine a flashlight down in the timing cover, visually inspect the #1 tensioner to see if rattles in the same cadence of the ticking noise.
I've got a 2008 5.7L Sequoia with 210,000 miles that clatters on startup but only if I let it sit for more than 3 days. I don't drive it much because I work from home, so I'll go 4-5 days before starting it and it will clatter from this exact location/sounds louder but similar, and only clatters for maybe 1-2 seconds. After 1-2 seconds it sounds normal and clatter is gone. A few observations I have noticed.
1: If I drive it daily or every 2-3 days I don't hear a clatter on startup.
2: When I use "high mileage" synthetic oil, my clatter happens much more frequent, even after just 1-2 days sitting. It seems whatever high mileage oil additives there are cause this problem to be much more pronounced and frequent.
3: Using regular synthetic with no additives seems to be best for startup noise/less frequent clatter on mine. With NON-high mileage oil I only get the clatter when it sits for longer periods.
I'm going to try the seafoam as mine is not doing it all the time, maybe if I catch it early enough I can clear out the passages if that is what causes this to happen. I think this is the second video I have seen where someone replaced the tensioner, then tested the tensioner and couldn't find what was really wrong with it as it seemed to have good tension. It makes me think it might just need cleaned.
Make sure the cage is not missing inside the oil filter housing but you probably already have. With that high of mileage and if the timing components are original then it sounds like the chains/guides are worn. They don't last forever. If original then that's pretty impressive. Let it sit for a few days, remove the plastic oil filler neck and look down inside at the chain tensioner/guide and see if they rattle when someone else starts it up. If so then you should start budgeting for front timing chain/guide replacement if you are going to keep it. Another thing you could do is run one grade thicker oil and see what happens but even if it cures the noise it's only masking the original problem.
@@raincitywrench117 Thanks for the advice. I believe it is all original on mine. When you talk about the cage in the oil filter housing I assume you are talking about the center metal cylinder that has holes, and goes inside the center of new oil filter element? I believe it is in a way sprint loaded as well?
Question about your comment on the guides. If my guides were worn then it would make the noise all of the time, or when revving it up? I believe the reason it only does it on start for a few seconds is because the tensioner is not working properly until it gets worked/vibration from the chain. That's my theory anyway. I have not seen any trends of the 5.7L with worn guides, though I suppose this tensioner being left unfixed could cause damaged guides eventually. Can you explain why you think the guides would be worn but only make a clatter for a few seconds, or maybe that's not what you were referring to? After a few seconds, mine sounds like a new car, no extra noise etc.
My father owns a 2009 xterra and they are notorious for worn guides/sharp chains causing issues etc. When his guides became worn, it was a slow progression of the vehicle getting more noisy over time, it was more noisy when revving the engine as you could hear the worn guides more, and he had a slight power loss. The noise did not go away after a few seconds, or when warm.
@@jlrosine The chain links, tensioner/idler guides, sprockets will develop a small amount of wear over time. The wear is constantly being taken up by the tensioners. When the tensioners get further extended it appears this engine is more prone to rattling. You should be able to peer down inside the left side of timing cover and see how far the primary chain tensioner plunger is pushed out. If it looks to be pushed way out then I suspect engine tear down is inevitable.
Ever experienced the 5.7 Valve spring break that destroys the engine? I am curious to know if installing aftermarket valve springs would be a better option. I looked it up and hear a few horror stories regarding this engine and i have it in the Sequoia with 170k miles but runs great. I was hoping to get at least 300k miles out of it but if that spring snaps the whole engine needs replaced from what i see on the forums.
I have not. I've only seen a handful of broken spring in my career. Most of the time the spring will crack in half but the valve keepers stay in place. It causes a misfire because the valve won't seat but won't drop into the piston. It's a big job to replace the springs. You may have one break tomorrow or never break. Replacing the springs is an insurance policy and I almost never buy extended warranties. If it were me, I would roll the dice and do nothing. Someone commented in this thread that the key to longevity is to warm up your engine before driving and I have to agree. I warm my engine for a good 5+ minutes each day I drive in the colder months.
@@raincitywrench117 I agree, it does have a remote starter so it's always warming up before being driven. I was thinking of having toyota install new springs since they are a 1 year warranty and unlimited mileage. If i have them do that once a year and one breaks destroying the engine would they not technically be responsible for replacing the whole engine if the springs are still within there 1 year? I want to turn it into an overland vehicle but dropping 6k into accessories vs what could happen is making me think twice. I believe the cost from toyota to replace the springs is about $500 so that is what i would be looking at once a year.
Is this an issue with the newer tundras? I bought a 2019 brand new and it only has 4600 miles on it now. I have the 5.7 TRD sport dc. I only run the Toyota oil in it with the TRD filters. I did my first oil change myself at 2500 miles. Thanks
That I don't know but they're great engines. Keep up on the regular maintenance and it should last you a lifetime.
I have this noise on cold start for 2 minutes then it goes away. was this one making the noise all the time? I'm thinking the dealer duped me in to thinking 10k oil changes were ok. possibly that thing got gummed up by residue.
At first the noise was intermittent but then started rattling most of the time so they had no choice but to have it fixed. The tensioner fixed it and it's never been back.
Was that TA-30, 31, 357 gasket sealer? Where do you get the stubby caulk gun?
TA-30 and a VERY old LOCTITE #29247 caulking gun
@@raincitywrench117 Thanks!
Holy eff I said when you said the knock sensor wires..my 2015 brand new tundra of 4 months had that happen...now I have the tick tick...you know that motor very well...I don't understand why Toyota hasn't been sued yet it's clear this issues stem for a long time.
Any engine with an open valley under the intake just invites the rodents. Worked on a 6.7 super duty today and noticed a large nest down in the valley.
Had no idea the video would get this many views when I originally filmed it. It's like almost every one of these engines will eventually start making the rattle. They are great engines but it's too bad you have to tear half the engine apart to replace one bad component.
Good question and Toyota is surely aware of this problem. I have never looked to see if there is a field service action, TSB or something else for this issue. Maybe there is?
@@raincitywrench117 thank you for the information, but they should wrap the wiring harnesses unban anti rodent tape at least, I haven't seen a tsb for that issue..I was told about 3k to do that job
👏 good job.
Thanks for watching.
curious how do those tensioners keep tension? I thought it was oil pressure which makes me wonder that when you were turning by hand how are they keeping tension without oil pressure?
You are correct. Oil pressure keeps the tension. There is a cam mechanism and notches machined into the piston that also keep the piston from retracting back when there is no oil pressure. That being said, this tensioner was bad and moving in and out causing the rattle noise. Thanks for watching!
Am I right in thinking that when this problem starts, it begins when the engine is cold and disappears once warmed up? I have a 2012 4.6, 178k, it has just developed a vibration which I thought might be a tensioner or some other pulley on the serpentine belt, but, those spin freely and quietly. Also, have noticed coming off the gas, I feel a very slight step to the rpms, could this be related? Probably time for a new fuel pump, anyway.
The Tundra in the video would rattle cold or hot. Sometimes the rattle would be pretty consistent then randomly stop altogether.
By vibration, do you mean rattle noise from engine like in the video or is the vehicle vibrating while driving? The idle fluctuation when letting up on the gas could be from a dirty throttle body especially with that high of mileage.
Rain City Wrench the vibration on mine is not as bad as the one in the video. I would sometimes get a tin sounding rattle upon startup that would last only a second. This might only happen twice a week, so, I thought it could be the start of the chain tensioner going out. The vibration on mine is there in neutral or moving, feels the same through the accelerator pedal as if a loud motorbike or car is passing. I’ve checked the throttle body, it’s clean (had a k&n filter a few years ago and saw the messed that caused on the throttle body, won’t do that again). Thank you for your time and reply, really appreciate it.
Good morning people , I have a question .
Did he have to remove the AC compressor to remove the the cover top ? Thank you
Yes. Just unbolt it and let it hang off to the side. No need to evacuate a/c system.
My Tundra 5.7 (99K miles) makes the same noise when I start it for a few minutes then it seems to diminish. About how much does it cost to repair it? Is it normal for the chains to loosen this early on? Thank you.
With a $150 dollar labor rate, I would say somewhere around 3 grand. The noise on the vehicle in this video was from the tensioner, not timing chain stretch. The cause seems to be the way the tensioner is designed.
@@raincitywrench117 Thank you.
Hi, I just changed the chain tensioner on my 2011 tundra 4.6 and I put everything back together and I started and still making the same noise, I hope someone can help me or have any idea why still making the noise. Thank you.
Make sure the metal cage inside the oil filter is not missing and the filter element is not collapsed. If that looks fine then you may want to have an oil pressure gauge installed and check what the actual oil pressure is.
My truck makes a similar noise but only under load. Accelerating or going up a hill or towing. Don't think.it is the same thing. Any advice
Boy, that's a tough one. If the top end is starving for oil then that can cause rattling noises. I would start by pulling the oil filter and make sure the inner metal tube is not missing. If it's not there then the oil filter can collapse.
My '07 5.7L has 296,000 miles and it makes a similar noise, but it also runs perfect. I will keep driving it, and only tear it down if the noise gets dramatically worse.
JUST. DONT. If at all the time to fix it is now. Cars, like all machines operate on the domino-effect. Just a thought!
Still going strong without repair?
Obviously not
@@teamhogmeat I changed the oil and filter yesterday at 305,000 miles and she purrs like a kitten.
Now I know what I'm fixing to mention may sound like total crap considering I'm going to mention a different engine from a much older vehicle. I had a 94 toyota truck with the 22RE inline 4. I had to replace the timing chain tensioner 3 times 15-20k miles apart due to loud timing chain slap. Noise was very noticable at idle but couldn't hear it at higher RPM's. It uses oil pressure to apply tension. The oil ports were very small and I found that sludge would cause them to plug up, thus not allowing low idle oil pressure to apply correct tension but would at higher RPM'S. I always changed my oil at regular intervals myself so that wasn't the issue of not changing the oil. I finally wised up and found my issue was being caused by a K&N drop in air filter allowing too much dust to enter the engine and mix with oil. Found a crap load of cotton missing on the air filter on its high peaks/folds. Just looked like open window screen. Once I replaced it with paper air filters my timing chain tensioner never gave me issues again. Due to this I never used K&N again and could only wonder how much wear it caused my other internal components. Got another 200k miles afterwards with no further issues with that chain tensioner. So just food for thought. When I saw this issue in the video it brought back that bad memory.
Worked on a bunch of 22R & 22RE's back in the day. Thanks for reminding me, can't remember the last time I checked the air filter on my yukon daily driver. The brand escapes me right now but it's the same type as K&N.
Never heard of those filters deteriorating and shedding material into the engine but now I'm going to look more closely. If overoiled, they are known to coat air flow meters causing low power and other driveability issues.
@@raincitywrench117 You're very welcome
@@raincitywrench117 I think mine was just a manufacturing issue. I doubt it was sucked into the intake. I'm gonna say a round over a hundred screen squares missing it's filter media. I lived in Phoenix at the time and never took that truck off road. But it does get dusty at times.
At what mileage does this happen? Does changing the oil often help prevent this? I have a brand new 2020 Tundra.
Looks like the mileage is all across the board. Some say it started while still in warranty and others well out of warranty. The engine in the video was well maintained and some owners say they have taken meticulous care & it still made the noise. It may just be a roll of the dice to whether it will make noise. I wonder if this issue still afflicts the newer 20-21 engines?
@@raincitywrench117 I had a 13 Tacoma and at 170 000 kms was still running near silent. I did change the oil every 8 000 kms. I used Castrol Syntec because it is cheap at Costco. My new Tundra only has 7 000 kms so to early to tell. I know our Corolla made that buzz sound at cold start and I am sure it was those spring loaded pins rattling. Once oil pressure is there...the pins 📌 are forced out under oil pressure and then go silent. This started at around 300 000 kms. My wife's RAV 4 does this now at just 110 000 but it is intermittent.
@@mikefoehr235 Yep, those corolla's would only make noise on startup from sticky cam phaser pins. From what others say on here, routine oil changes & engine warm up in colder weather are key to longevity.
So would that change the the oil pressure margins?
That I do not know. Don't think it affects oil pressure at all.
I just bought my truck 10 days ago and doing this. Should i cut the loss amd trade it in? Everyone on the forums keep saying its normal. 1 guy tonight said if i dont fix, the engine will blow.
It rattles hard in the morning byt if you rev it disappears. A few days ago i had a poof of white smoke for 2-3sec. These issues arent realted no? Tensioner issues dont affect combustion is my thoughts.
As far as I know, the noise will not affect reliability or cause internal damage. Read where some have driven with noise for tens of thousands of miles. White smoke will not be related to the tensioner. But make sure you keep an eye on the coolant level to see if it slowly drops over time. This repair can be real spendy unfortunately. I would make sure the correct weight oil is being used and the center metal screen is not missing inside the oil filter housing. www.amazon.com/Assembly-2008-2020-2007-2013-15620-0S010-15620-38010/dp/B08YWSL2KB
A couple of questions please...
*How many on the truck?
*how often was the oil/filter changed?
*what brand of oil and what brand of filter used?
Thank you!
I'm not 100% but think it was 135K. Would have to watch back but guess I forgot to put the mileage in. Unfortunately I can't answer the other questions because this was a dealer trade in. It was sent to me for a used vehicle inspection and that's when I noticed the noise. I will say the vehicle has never returned.
Thank you! In your professional opinion was the failed tensioner a result of bad maintenance , ie. lack of timely oil changes?
Ran into this thread. My 2015 with only 51K miles started doing it. Oil always changed by Toyota dealership, buddy mechanic. It never goes away, not even after it warms up. Gets better at higher RPMs. Thinking the seafoam and new oil change thays worked for some would be a waste??
Wouldn't be out that much if it didn't work, may have no choice but to install a new tensioner.
@@raincitywrench117 going to try just to see. Only thing is been working from home for 2.5 years. Haven't driven it much. Unless like you said the tensioner just went bad
Great video. I've got this same issue going on with a 2014 Land Cruiser. Only 80K miles. Bank 1. Worse when cold and comes and goes on and off as the solenoid seems to energize when idling. Techs could never hear noise until latest visit. Quoted 6K at Toyota dealer to replace chains tensioners phasers etc. My big worry is that the car consumes oil, up to 2 quarts in 10K miles. Worried about fixing tensioners if there is other major engine wear unrelated to timing chains. Big bummer. I am the original owner and have always done all recommended maintenance on the car.
Well that stinks. Have a few comments with dealer quotes between 4-8 thousand dollars which is ridiculous. If I was a shadetree mechanic, would buy the crank puller and tackle job before I ever payed that price. I agree, need to see if the oil consumption problem can be fixed before worrying about the chain rattle. I would recommend doing some research on oil consumption fixes on these engines. Maybe it is pulling oil through the crankcase breather system or the oil rings are gummed up? Not sure if these engines have a pcv valve. Could try running an oil flush solvent though it or seafoam to see if that helps. May be worth pulling the plugs and see if oil consumption is isolated to one cylinder or all of them.
How long can I run my truck with these noise without damaging the engine? been running it for more than 10k miles with that noise only in cold start then the noise goes away after it warms up.
I can't say, that would be a great question for a journeyman technician at a high volume Toyota dealer. I wonder what the end result is? Do they eventually jump timing, break chains, wear off cam/crank teeth? They do seem to keep running a long time even after making that noise.
I think jump timing is the most likely. But who knows? It depends on how you drive too.
My dad tundra had the same problem and he waited and it jump time and had to rebuild the engine and cost thousands
@@ramcummins7879 how long did he wait and was the house constant?.
Noise
My 2011 sounds similar but it gets quicker while I give it a little more throttle you think that’s the same issue? I was thinking that but not to sure
Could be. Unbolt the oil fill neck when it's making the noise & look down inside timing cover with flashlight. If the chain and guide rattle up & down then that's your problem.
My 2016 5.7 is starting to do tjay noise but goes away after it gets warm idk can someone help maybe a thicker oil to make it sound better ?
You can try the seafoam trick like E did in the comments. Maybe it will work for you too?
I’m actually in the middle of a teardown for the same issue any tips I’m trying to remove as little as possible just out of curiosity do the belt pulley have to be in time first time ever doing this
There is a large main oil feed o-ring in the bottom of the timing cover, make sure that is in place before installing the timing cover. Lubricate the water pipe o-rings with Sil Glyde (napa) or equivalent before going back together. Leaving the front oil seal off when installing timing cover can help when clocking the oil pump onto the crankshaft. Make sure the block mating flanges are cleaned thoroughly with alcohol or brake cleaner right before installing cover so that way the silicone sticks good. There are small o-rings in the top of the cylinder heads on each side for the vct oil control valves, make sure they are in place before installing valve covers. The belt pulleys do not need timed, pulleys can be in any angle when serpentine belt is installed. You do not need to touch any of the timing chain components on the passenger side. Before removing bank one timing chain tensioner make sure you hold the intake camshaft with some vice grips like I did so the cams do not move. Make marks with a paint pen on the timing chain and cam/crank gears so that way you know it is the same as when you took it apart. Good Luck!
Rain City Wrench thank you I’ll let you know how it goes and if I run into any issues
Rain city wrench I’m not going to lie this job is a pain I also don’t know where a certain nut goes any way to send you a photo of it to see it you know where it goes it had to be removed to get the timing chain cover off
@@CarlosSantiago-cb7ol Sure, send to raincitywrench@gmail.com
After replacing everything was there still slack in the chain ?
good mecahik
Ball park how many hours is a job like that?
Can you show a video on how to replace the crankshaft seal on a 2010 tundra 5.7 L flex fuel?
I would love to but I don't have one in the shop for that repair now. The hardest part of the job is removing the crankshaft balancer bolt, they are on VERY tight. I start by breaking the fan pulley nuts loose before removing the belt then pull belt, fan/shroud. Next up is breaking the crank bolt loose. I use a power bar just like in this video:th-cam.com/video/urARM2WDokM/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=RainCityWrench
Next up I use two pry bars on opposite side of the balancer and gently try to walk the pulley off. If it is really stuck then I break out my puller to get it off. Without those tools it will be really tough or next to impossible to do that repair yourself. Hope that helps.
@@raincitywrench117 Should I remove the radiator?
@@raincitywrench117 That is an awesome tool, it sure seems to save a lot of work. Thank you very much for the input!!!
Toyota should do a recall on this. My platinum is at 94,000 and it started making this noise after oil change from Toyota City.
They should but don't hold your breath
Mines a different type of knocking like rod bearings
I’ve got this same noise that just started. I don’t have the time to put into this. How much would this cost at a mechanic? Or worse yet the dealership?
Think someone in the comments had a dealer quote for 7 grand 🤦♂️ It's about 15 hours so if the shops in your area are around $200hr then the labor alone is 3 grand.
My 2013 Tundra has this ticking noise, and every now and then, my engine light, with four Hi/Lo, will come on. When that happens, I lose power?
Interesting. I suspect a second problem. Need to have the PCM scanned and see what codes are stored. Maybe a camshaft/crankshaft correlation code which could make it lose power or any number of other issues.
Have the same issue with my 15 tundra 99k miles on it how much would it cost to fix? It runs great other than that!
Pretty expensive repair. I think it's a 14 hour job + parts. The dealer I work at charges $165 an hour. Depending on where you live, my guess is somewhere between 2-3 thousand $ repair. If your pickup is well maintained, you like it and plan on keeping it then it's a no brainer, I would fix it.
Curious as to the mileage that this started happening on. Thanks for the good walkthrough.
That I can't say because it was a trade in but it could be the reason why the previous owner decided to get rid of it. I think it had around 120k, would have to go back through my comments to remember the exact mileage.
On my 2010 tundra started at about 280thousand K in
@@vasileiacoban2827 With that high of mileage, you could just keep driving and see how far it goes.
I replaced the knock sensor wires three times thanks to Mr. Ratatouille
Damn rats. Just had a rat get his guts sliced open by the belt on a Volvo s60 on a test drive.
I replaced my tensioner as well and all the chains and still get the noise. Not sure what to dive into next. Scratching my head at this point.
Pull the plastic oil fill housing and look down inside at the chain/tensioner. If it jumps up and down the same rate as rattle then you have a bad tensioner.
@@raincitywrench117 I tried that and it seemed to be holding steady, but when it does it again I'll look at it one more time. Thanks for responding. If that's not it, not sure where I'll look next.
@@markphillips9454 ever figure this out? Did you use OEM Toyota parts?
@@teamhogmeat used oem parts. It was the variable valve timing lock pin worn out. Still running it. Not going back in till I have to.
I have a tundra 5.7 with a p0022 and p0012 code only. The engine started making this noise at start up a couple mornings (25 degrees ouside) ago and then it goes away after it warm-ups, then today the codes appear. It runs great and the noise is gone. Any suggestions of where to start? anyone have this issue with your 2011 Tundra 5.7L?? Thank you!
Found this on tundratalk.net, this guy was having the same codes as you and it seems cold weather was affecting it: "I have put roughly 15,000 miles on the truck, and the codes have NOT reappeared. I've been sampling my oil with Blackstone from day one and nothing funny is going on inside the engine (wear wise). I've concluded the root of the problem was the oil from the get go. I switched to 0w-20 synthetic and all the problems went away. I found out after several trips the dealer is using super cheap 10w-30 bulk oil. The oil is the only variable to change. I've waited through the cold months for it to pop up again because that's when the symptoms started. Maybe I just have a picky truck, who knows but I'm not complaining because the problem is gone."
I would flush the engine oil, change the oil filter checking to make sure the metal center tube is not missing and the filter is collapsed, fill with quality 0w-20 oil, clear codes and drive. I bet this saves you $3000,00. Good luck.
@@raincitywrench117 Thank you so much for the reply. Interestingly enough everything started 50 miles after I took the truck to the dealership for an oil change (they put 5w20 non-synthetic). I decided to follow your advice and do an oil flush, and use 0w20 synthetic oil. To my surprise, the oil filter was completely collapsed wth?? the tech at the Toyota dealer forgot to place the tube back ??? I went ahead and bought a new oil housing cap and tube from the local store ($29), replaced the oil, filter, and cleared the codes. 150+ miles later no check engine light, no more ticking noises, runs smoother and quieter. Thank you for your knowledge. You gain a new subscriber!!!
@@aleazp123 Cool! Glad you got it fixed up. The lube jockey dropped the housing and broke the tube out or something but obviously wasn't paying attention when installing the new filter. Makes me wonder how many times this has happened to Toyota owners through the years costing them time, grief and money? Take care.
Anyone having this issue I ran a half can of seafoam in my oil, oil turned completely black "cleaned out motor" no more vvt rattle on startup !!!!
My 08 tundra makes noise when accelerating
The #1 tensioner could definitely be the cause.
Great job 👍 How many miles on vehicle?
Thank You. 136K on this engine
@@raincitywrench117 my 4.6 LS 460 has 211K still quite. Hopefully won't have to do this but thanks for showing me how. Great video.
4.6 and 4.7 have a timing belt not a chain like the 5.7.
My 07 LS 460 has a chain.
Veri good
Monica was unstoppable by early 1993 and likely would have won 2 more grand slams that year plus 3 more in 1994 and 1995. She also was so determined she would eventually have captured a Wimbledon title. Its so sad that Seles and the entire tennis world were robbed of seeing Seles in her prime.
My 2012 does this at idle until it gets up to operating temp. But it's not constant the "knock" starts and stops when it does it. Been doing it for years still no major issues 🤷🏻♂️
Have yet to see a comment that this noise leads to catastrophic failure. Just annoying is all.
@@raincitywrench117 yes it is very annoying but mine only does it off and on until the engine hits operating temperature then the noise goes away completely
My 2014 just started, with only 70,000 miles, I thought it might be the oil I was using.
Bummer. It won't break down but is annoying.
Incorrect oil causes those tensioners to fail
How many miles on truck?
I'm not 100 positive but think it had 137K
I have a tundra 5.7 with a p0014 code only. Engine doesn’t make this noise. Any suggestions of where to start? I called numerous dealerships around the country and heard a drastic difference in approach. I hear things like check vvt system and vvt filters and others said check timing chain stretch. I thought stretch would cause valve timing retard but my code is advanced
That's an exhaust cam over advanced bank 1. Swap the oil control valves on the driver side valve cover, clear codes and drive. If code returns but switches to the intake cam then you know you have a bad oil control valve.
If code stays the same then swap the cam position sensors and repeat to check for bad sensor. If P0014 just keeps coming back then it's most likely inside the engine. Pull driver valve cover, roll engine over until timing marks line up and thoroughly inspect to see if chain jumped. Also look down inside timing cover to see how far the tensioner is pushed out. If tensioner is pushed most of the way out then the chain is stretched.
@@raincitywrench117 just saw this. Thanks so much for the advice. I’ll try swapping tomorrow
@@raincitywrench117 also I’m curious of your opinion on driving the truck on a long road trip. It runs well and engine is quiet during warm up and at operating temp. In my experience a catastrophic timing chain failure would make some noise first. With this p0014 code but a nice quiet and strong running engine, would you tow a camper on a 3200 mile round trip? It has 139k miles. Runs and shifts great and I’ve kept up with all fluids during the time I’ve owned it.
@@dasppg9737 I agree with you. If I were to gamble, I bet you have no problem on your trip.
@@raincitywrench117 thanks
I changed my oil recently at 5100 miles on my 19 Tundra and now notice this tapping sound. I’m shocked .... should I take it to the dealer? I have an extended warranty
If it is a random typewriter sound then don't be alarmed. Some gasoline and diesel engines can do this right after changing oil. My 6.7 diesel sometimes does this right after changing the oil but goes away after putting some mileage on it. There are tsb's from multiple manufactures, here is one: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10140303-9999.pdf
If it clatters hard like in the video then you definitely need to get it into the dealer.
@@raincitywrench117 thanks for your reply! I changed the oil about 2-3 weeks ago and noticed the typewriter sound at start up then it went away. Now weeks later I hear it on occasion at startup but it gradually goes away as the engine warms up but I still do hear a tap here and there at idle, is that still ok? Thanks for your help and reassurance!
@@raincitywrench117 I just started up the engine this morning after letting the car sit overnight and had no wierd noises. Everything sounded normal, but I will keep an eye on it.
@@NYC-2-BKK No problem. It sure sounds like the typewriter tsb from what you describe. My diesel can take 500-1000 miles for it to stop ticking at idle, that is if it starts to make noise at all. It is so random. E did a seafoam oil treatment that cured his noise, pinned it to the top of comments.
@@raincitywrench117 What's a typewriter? Showing your age. Regardless, very good video and information.
She did this on cold starts only and then will run normal yes?
Here is my reply to Josh Slacker: "I bet it is the tensioner. The Tundra in the video would do it randomly, sometimes at an idle, sometimes after cold start, other times it would take an hour. Definitely no rhyme or reason."
Was this Tundra doing it full-time? Just at startup? Or randomly?
Mine does it sometimes at startup. It also does it at idle sometimes. Can get pretty loud if I'm in a Drive-Thru up against the wall where the sound bounces back. Sometimes it won't do it for a week. Its been happening for a few years now. Very bizarre
2010 5.7 with 172k.
I bet it is the tensioner. The Tundra in the video would do it randomly, sometimes at an idle, sometimes after cold start, other times it would take an hour. Definitely no rhyme or reason.
I pulled all of the VVT solenoids and every one of them would stick open after I would energize it. Clean them all up until they actuated buttery smooth. My thought was that if the valves hang then oil pressure is going to the phasers at startup and starving the tensioner for a bit. Put everything back together and had a few solid days of no noise. Then it started doing it again. It must be the tensioner...FML.
@@Mtbslacker The next time it starts making noise, remove the oil cap and look way down inside with a flashlight at the bank one tensioner. If you see the chain slapping up and down quickly then that is the cause.
So this was the driver side tensioner only? do you have the part number by any chance?
Sorry I don't but should be easy to find.
@@raincitywrench117 www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~tensioner~assy~chai~13540-0s022.html?vin=5TFUW5F13FX454711&make=Toyota&model=Tundra&year=2015&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=() is this the one from your video?
@@MrRey007 Yes sir. Chain tensioner #1
@@raincitywrench117 thank you buddy. Is it ok to put the cover back in using permatex right stuff black rtv ?
I don't see a problem with that. I use Motorcraft TA-30 or TA-31. The key is clean all oil off the mating flanges right before assembly. I use a clean terry cloth soaked in alcohol to wipe the surfaces. After engine final assembly, I like to let sit overnight for silicone to set up. Also make sure the pipe o-rings are lubed with sil-glyde. Never use petroleum jelly or regular grease as it can swell seals.
Excellent job. How many miles on that truck?
136K
no I don't since I bother to maintain it...runs like a Swiss clock
Saludos desde chile buen video
Thanks for watching!
About how many hours was this job?
Believe I had close to 15 hours
im lucky i suppose, im at 260k and engine is buttery smooth no noises. shes been ran hard too
It looks like these engines are hit and miss when it comes to developing this noise. Weird for sure.