Toyota SHAME ON YOU!!! You need to cover this cost!!!! This goes against your reliability reputation. And you need to FIRE the person responsible for this flaw.
Initially I came to watch just the intake manifold removal, but I stayed for the whole thing, as you never know when you might be coming back for a similar problem down the road!
Great video. I watched this a couple of times and it helped me solve my same problem. Sealing up the intakes is a must. You flew over the Air Check Valves in the back and it took me a while to figure out what those were, I missed that 2 seconds in the video the first time. That unit came out easier than I thought it would. Pull the right 2 bolts, pull the back left and push the unit back enough to get a ratcheting wrench on the inside bold and the unit comes out ok. I did remove the check valves first. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! Yea, should have filmed that part of it. It probably is the most tricky part of the whole job. Glad you got it figured out without having to pay someone. Love saving money.
Hey thanks for filming this ,its really helped me to have extra confidence in undertaking this task , not done yet but seeing you get it done even though not experienced is inspiring. Youve got a good grin too at the end, happy day to ya.👍👋
Video was a great help. I consider my self an above average DIYer, I was able to get it done but it was not fun at all. Lots of parts to remove to get down to it. I would highly recommend people to have a shop do this job.
thanks for that video. I got a Tundra in the garage. had coolant leaks here and there. replaced radiator, pump, thermostat and so on...Still coolant lost. as you said, it took over 3h that the leak occurred. so this heat exchanger job seems to be the last step. I check compression, leak down and co2 test. no cylinderhead failure. you do a nice job there. as I also have daily different cars in the garage I always pack my bolts in zip lock bags, give them a tag and put them in order as best as possible. any hose or vacuum line I mark nowadays with a yellow, red and white marker. for my local Cambodian mechanics it looks a waste but in the end I am faster assembling and I never forget a bolt, sensor or vacuum line which can be a pita to find out after the job why suddenly the car is not running at all!
Had to have this done last week. $1350 later, no more leak and intermittent ticking once warm. I will say the factory silicone did almost make it 12 yrs and 200K miles.
I’m having this fixed on my gx460 right now. Mechanic told me might as well replace knock sensors too because after putting old ones back on they can fail soon after. It’s turning into an expensive job. I have 150,000 miles now and plan to at least double that so why not.
my tundra mysteriously drinking coolant and squeel from the water pump on start when cold or damp out 118000 miles im afraid of this, also they say you may crack the heat exchanger when removing best to replace that or you just get another leak thanks for making this video its really helpful!
Excellent video!!! I am having a leak in the back of the manifold as well(2008 5.7 Toyota Sequoia). Where are you located. I really would have loved for you to fix mine. Thank you for sharing awesome presentation.
thank you for the video it was very insightful. Mine has a very slight leak coming down the bell housing. Im preparing to tow a trailer 10 hours next week and imagine i better get this done first. how long does this repair take you?
Think it was around 5 hours. Getting the bolts out of the air check assembly is the hardest part. The lower left bolt is a real tight fit but just barely comes out. The rest is pretty straight forward.
Good video but.....Warning for DIYer's: This is not an easy task. This video was edited and some steps were not included, so if you are thinking of doing this on your own, you may want to take a pause. the water tube and the transfer tube are connected to some kind of regulator behind the engine, pretty much everything inside the manifold is connected to that. That is where the main job is. It is not shown how to remove that in the video. I am currently stuck on how to remove that. The knock sensor plate also has a bolt in the back, in a very tight spot, if you loosen it you have no allowance to get it out without dismantling the regulator(whatever it's called). In my case I stripped it trying to remove the plate, I ended up cutting the bracket-ground(not sure if that is what it's called) kind of like a washer in between the plate and the screw to free up the plate. You have to also be ready to disconnect quite a few electrical connectors. RC, could please, add a few steps on how to get that regulator out of the way. Thanks
I think you are talking about the secondary air injection diverter valve assembly. Yea, sorry I didn't film that. I bungee tied the plastic tubes off to the side. You are correct, the hardest part of the job is removing the valve. I take the three bolts out of the valve and then remove the four small bolts holding the tubes on each side. Getting the front passenger side air tube bolt out is a pain, I pry the valve slightly to the driver side to get that bolt out and then slide the valve assembly straight up leaving the two metal tubes intact in the cylinder heads. Hope you have success in your repair!
What I’ve heard is not to tackle the bolt at the firewall, but rather disconnect the valves ate the lower portion of the tubes near the pumps behind the passenger side wheel liner. Then the valves come out with the tube(s) attached.
They should use a rubberized metal basket in that location and it would last the life of the vehicle. Same thing with their V6 timing covers, so wasteful. They think they are saving on production cost but get nailed on warranty when those prematurely fail.
I've watched your video many times prior to working on my recently acquired 2012 Toyota Sequoia. When removing the Air check valve, I broke the 5 pin connector as it was super brittle. I've noticed it's almost identical to the MAF 5 pin connector. Would it be ok to fix the wire harness with MAF connectors instead of the original plug? What did you spray from the blue can when cleaning the mating surface of the coolant reservoir? Thanks for the great video!
DONT KNOW IF I'D SAY THAT IT MADE IT 122K MILES, LOOKS LIKE IT MIGHT HAVE BEEN DONE BEFORE BY SOMEONE NOT SO THOUROUGH, NORMALLY FROM THE MANUFACTURER YOU DONT HAVE THE RTV SQUEEZE OUT LIKE THAT HAD, GLAD TO SEE YOU TAKE THE LITTLE STEPS TO DO IT RIGHT, I USED TO USE SYLGLIDE ON MY O-RINGS, THEN I HAD AN OLD TIMER SHOW ME TO USE LIQUID PIPE THREAD SEALER ON THEM, NEVER HAD AN ISSUE EITHER WAY, BUT ANY THOUGHTS ON THAT??
Hey Kevin, how you been? Good eye, you are correct. The more I think about it, Toyota most likely used their gray vulcanizing rubber type sealant from factory so that means the first repair only made it like 20-30k. Great tip on the pipe dope. I just looked up the composition: A material safety data sheet reports that the "Permatex" 51D pipe joint compound contains kaolin, clay, vegetable oil, rosin, ethanol, etc[citation needed]. The ingredients are designed to: fill minute spaces between mating pipe fittings (kaolin), and serve as a lubricant as the fittings are forced together (vegetable oil). Petroleum-based pipe dope is not intended for use on threaded PVC, CPVC or ABS pipe and fittings since it will deteriorate the plastic. Builders in the US are expected to use thread compounds that meet ASTM F2331 - Standard Test Method for Determining Chemical Compatibility of Thread Sealants with Thermoplastic Threaded Pipe and Fittings Materials or thread seal tape on PVC, CPVC and ABS threads. In summary, if the thread sealer meets F2331 standards then it will work in all automotive applications and not deteriorate/swell up rubber seals. Learn something new everyday!
Ex Fel Pro needs to offer a metal reinforced gasket. Shame on Toyota for this design. Just like the Cam Tower leaks. My 2016 is doing this. Very invasive.
I just got done pulling the front timing case off to replace my timing chain tensioner. Filling the radiator back up and have water running down the back of the block. Despite practicing the install of the cover with a new O-ring on the front of the pipe, I have managed to get a leak. It was a lot of work to pull that case to I am looking at going in through the top. My first attempt will be to try and reseat the pipe from the top after removing the minimal things needed to access. If that doesn't work. I will be doing this next. Do you have a list of O-rings that I need to replace if any? How about part numbers for the knock sensors?
Hi sir Can i know, does this provlem have for 4.7 v8 petrol land cruiser 200 series 2010..... Im planning to buy one used bit i dont know whether the engine have problems like this... Please help me out..
Thank you for the great video! I have this very issue and will be making repairs after Thanksgiving. Quick question, how much coolant did you have to add back? Did you fill after reassembly?
I can't remember but think it was just under two gallons total diluted @ 50/50. If you are in a real cold climate then dilute less according to the bottle. I also use an air lift which makes filling real easy and you won't have to worry about trapped air and overheating. th-cam.com/video/_WCRcuCZI50/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=FordTechMakuloco
Question i have to do this on my 2014. Could i just put the sealant on the bottom half of the valley to lessen the chance of smudge or issues or is it recommended to do the sealant on top?
@Rain City Wrench appreciate the responce! I plan to tackle this hopefully this week. I just picked up all the gaskets, sealant and coolant today from toyota. Wish me luck haha.
great job! I'm wondering if this is where I'm losing coolant in my 2007 Tundra with 93,300 miles? I top up the reservoir maybe twice a year but can never find anything physically dripping. Cheers.
Any suggestions on the o-rings? I’ve done this job 3 times in 6 weeks on my tundra because the o rings keep leaking. I put syl-glide on them every time. I’m about ready to cover them in the right stuff and call it good. That pipe may never come off again, but I don’t think it will leak anymore.
@@raincitywrench117 I am using Toyota o-rings. Someone else on here just told me the coolant pipe from the water pump to the heat exchanger has been updated. I ordered one of those, hopefully that does the trick.
I believe I have this issue in my ‘15 sequoia. Local mechanic can’t find leak even with pressure test, running down bell housing, coolant mysteriously low… My truck has 165K miles and this is behind my capabilities. Will the build up of coolant residue hurt anything if I drive it like this for a while just refilling the coolant regularly? I don’t want to spend the money on it right now.
I have the exact problem. I even took the car to the shop to reseal the engine valley plate and the leak is still occurring. LMK if you found a fix that wasn't the valley plate seal
Thanks for the video @raincitywrench117. I'm having the same issue on a 2011 200 Land Cruiser. Toyota dealer suggested replacing the knock sensors as well at $250 a piece, there are 4. What is your opinion on replacing the knock sensors while they are in there? Toyota quoted $3K for parts and labor. Ouch!!
Yikes! I never replace knock sensors unless they are bad. Plus, have only replaced two or three knock sensors in my entire 30 year career. I believe two were on Nissans. If one was to go bad they are easy to do, only the intake has to be removed. The knock sensor bolts do need to be torqued and not run down with an impact.
It's an E Torx socket. Think it was an E6 or an E8. Here is a set:www.amazon.com/14pcs-Female-Torx-Socket-drive/dp/B089B268KL/ref=asc_df_B089B268KL/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459657803259&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8513986803556923626&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033404&hvtargid=pla-942538511940&psc=1
Obviously, toyota FIP didn't work so well. Have some bad luck with permatex grey. Have you ever tried the permatex right stuff? How many miles will your repairs usually get a vehicle le by
Red (medium) Scotch-Brite pad with Toyota FIPG would work perfect. www.amazon.com/Black-Hawk-Surface-Conditioning-Change/dp/B01HUNK1ZS/ref=asc_df_B01HUNK1ZS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807921328&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=858608325201538513&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033382&hvtargid=pla-571314866796&th=1 www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=asc_df_B000HBGI8K/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312097317052&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6812777214562088217&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033382&hvtargid=pla-437600037492&ref=&adgrpid=57631863970&th=1
@@rashadatifrsindi9828 I like Motorcraft TA-31. Use it on almost everything, thick and tacky gray material like what oem manufactures use to seal engines and transmissions. I just so happened to be out the day I shot the video or else that's what I would have used.
@@raincitywrench117 Thanks dude. You're the best. I also wanted to ask about the impact wrench you're using. I noticed that you're using regular socket and not impact sockets ( low torque applications of course). Do they fit fine? What drive size do you recommend? I was thinking of buying Kimo th-cam.com/video/k0-tPJJBAUE/w-d-xo.html . I am just scared my regular sockets won't fit because the kit includes a couple of sockets only.
@@rashadatifrsindi9828 The Kimo unit looks good for the price. I think the best is milwaukee but they are like 3 times more. I prefer 1/2 drive for heavy duty work like lug nuts, frame bolts, suspension bolts exhaust manifolds, etc & 3/8 for most everything else then use 1/4" for light duty applications like air filter housings, headlights, dash work, etc. I pretty much use impact sockets for most of my jobs. You shouldn't have a problem fitting any brand sockets on the Kimo.
Just got my sequoia repaired at Toyota and woke up to coolant back on the ground and radiator empty so they didnt fix it. Toyota is an hour away so would it be safe to fill it back up and drive it there or get it towed so they can fix what they didn't fix?
Hi brother how much does it cost to fix it..... Is it a common problem in every model sequio 😬...... Im planning to buy one but does it cost too much.... Please reply and help
I believe this job took almost six hours so not that terrible. If the repair shops in your area are $200hr then that would make it $1200 bucks plus a few seals.
What about putting silicone in both seal faces instead of a tiny bed in one side?, I saw a guy do this in a Lexus IS and looks like it woukd seal better
Strange? If your coolant level isn't dropping then it's definitely something else. There are two air injection tubes that run under the intake that can build up water inside but that would mean one of the black plastic tubes is cracked. Sure it's not condensation leaking from the evaporator drain?
Yes, you can use and inspection mirror and take a peek under the back of the intake manifold. There are a few spots from the front where you will be able to barely see the plate down in the valley with flashlight.
The large coolant pipe o-rings are #96761-35035 www.ebay.com/itm/284519665139?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=284519665139&targetid=1262779893049&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9033382&poi=&campaignid=14859008593&mkgroupid=130497710760&rlsatarget=pla-1262779893049&abcId=9300678&merchantid=6296724&gclid=CjwKCAiA8bqOBhANEiwA-sIlN4B2mZ-Gt_Sam9O768pfktz1LOUXCGXQWwpJUNa3qC8GnJ8PHD--LBoCXxEQAvD_BwE
I broke the plastic manifold by lifting up on the front to replace the knock sensor harness. i was originally trying to sneak the harness in without removing the manifold. The back 2 bolts were in place and the manifold broke where those last 2 bolts attach. Dumb mistake, yes. This was after watching about a dozen videos to make sure that I had all the bolts. But none of the videos mentioned how many bolts to remove. Anyway now I'm trying to decide if there's any way that plastic welding or JB weld is strong enough to attach the rear pieces to the manifold or the other bolts will create enough of a seal? This is all caused by a mouse that made a nest inside and chewed up my wiring harness
@@raincitywrench117 Yeah, was looking at used manifold options. Actually I decided to use a really strong glue to put the manifold bolt tabs back for the back 2 bolts. It was a gamble, yes. But I was able to get an extremely strong bond. So far the vehicle is working perfectly with that repair. It also probably helps that the manifold only needs 15 ft pounds of torque on it!
Found a coolant leak under the reservoir of my 98 K1500 Silverado, had replaced the water pump last year and replaced the gaskets under cylinder head. It’s not the heater core, I’m leaning towards the intake manifold gasket or worn out connector hoses connected to the metal pipes. Can I get your opinion on this before I get more work done and spending more money then I need to?
These are real common for the intake manifold gaskets to leak. The original gaskets are plastic and they make an updated metal/rubber gasket. I would have the cooling system pressure tested and leave it under pressure overnight to find the leak. You can pick up a fairly cheap pressure tester at harbor freight if you want to do it yourself. www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-MS-98000-Permadryplus-Manifold/dp/B000CH0C0Y/ref=asc_df_B000CH0C0Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312061942313&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4303600977851000936&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033382&hvtargid=pla-434880887414&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63195598318&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312061942313&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4303600977851000936&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033382&hvtargid=pla-434880887414
Does it matter which part you put the silicone bead on? seems like it might be easier to put the bead on the engine and then set the part on top? Just wondering as im doing this tonight. Thanks.
@@raincitywrench117 OMG, that bolt on the EGR tube was insanely difficult. Also, How do you know if the coolant pipe on heat exchanger is seated properly? Mine didnt and I had to take off intake again, then used channel locks to move and twist pipe until it stopped leaking. Im crossing my fingers I dont need to tear it all the way down again. Massive PITA
@@jasonsmith7809 Yea, that one bolt isn't fun. The coolant pipe "floats" in the center and it will only go so far in each direction. You may have had a little corrosion or gunk stuck in the bore. Reusing or not installing Toyota o-rings could also give you problems.
I used Motorcraft TA29. I would have used TA31 but was out. That stuff works awesome, use on everything. Here is the factory sealant: TOYOTA & LEXUS 00295-00103 GRAY O.E.M FOR ALL MODELS F.I.P.G GASKET MAKER
Use Toyota FIPG or equivalent www.amazon.com/Toyota-Genuine-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0 www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=sr_1_1?crid=GYISWRYKQCF0&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6eKLPo-6ohh2IIZAIqEJaBGPZdlzsRq_mdnCz3sJLRjClOI5vjUEHDxTzzeC_0VINpVNQEkQZAL0__HxAq6YNRFWGekL9vq5hinMEQ5Eym8ifFiZC6ursW9OVnS75pjxVxu3x9QW15ry8alhhdeW7XsTChxBj62DH3f9UrE3W44UldgyjF5CaeiLXQfdeniQ5A93NHaUlkvxDvkrtRZm6enHbzbGaX5RZc08R6Lw2U6kv8OfqFNyAcV-i0uEeExf14DtRChV3K13OZbIKgFxEzRoE76f4sjmQTMrreHkLxo.8iq6RhfmZ5LPTPuFhAovYHdSD3WmpUWNY3pIfjIGXkk&dib_tag=se&keywords=ultra+gray+silicone+automotive&qid=1717563527&s=automotive&sprefix=ultra+gray%2Cautomotive%2C145&sr=1-1
I used Motorcraft TA 357. Toyota FIPG is recommended. Permatex Ultra Grey would also work great. www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=sr_1_1_mod_primary_new?crid=30XEDELDP7QK1&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6eKLPo-6ohh2IIZAIqEJaBT7kafYpRdMsZYfdg2D_q-AhRVLb7hmDqntzG8-isjhkcff1C26TYlSDV-OH9DhYn5HZVbh-NgULKXjvqTnD_SnqcG9VdvJbwP4YqNGiAQQzbH1eOwj44MxjTB4Nk-TRT2P5WNK9eCeXOeV-i9cPhlPGLJjiKwGQQZSUuZbmV5HzgAB7QP3607yGNEyV130-Lh8ywfTPRG2RplEviWkad-Df5jZ3rUa3zZYYCbARoovvss5HVvMjKjvNgmtbK411l23I8dpGGJ3jAZkZwbmSgI.nEp4bbsBAR5kaFVIoVcwag6h532He1hRmuOyvI1EONU&dib_tag=se&keywords=Permatex%2B82194&qid=1710738217&s=automotive&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=permatex%2B82194%2Cautomotive%2C145&sr=1-1&th=1
Cornwell but they have discontinued that unit. Here is the replacement:webcat.cornwelltools.com/CTG3000ANGX-3-8-Drive-Electronic-Digital-Torque-Wrench-p373537414 I have the 1/2 version of this unit. Both are fantastic. Feature angle mode + have aluminum handles. Prices are ridiculous though.
Motorcraft TA-357 but Toyota FIPG is the factory sealant. Permatex Ultra Grey would also work great www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-12PK-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B001REZBIE/ref=asc_df_B001REZBIE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693070740373&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5178546024868755165&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033404&hvtargid=pla-434484252858&mcid=8f30e72b8eaa3d469687bad324eeff46&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0MexBhD3ARIsAEI3WHIBBBYWfSpx0D06gJzSDcae6u83gKqIkUEDbJD6SfPJcHEEoMPCAtsaAiqiEALw_wcB&th=1
I’ve done this job 3 times in last 6 weeks because my o-rings keep leaking. I think I’m going to cover them in the same silicone that I’m using to hold down the heat exchanger. It’s crazy. If I stay under 65 mph then I don’t leak at all, but if I get around 75-80 mph my temp gauge starts rising and it spits coolant from that pipe.
@@ryanalexander984 I bought a new coolant pipe, slightly updated part and pretty cheap. Make sure you put a ton of silicone grease on the o-rings so they dont get pushed off their seat when you put the pipe back in heat exchanger.
any recommendation on the seal type as my dealer has no clue what kind of gasket maker seal is it. also what type of lube used to install the O ring on the small tube and by the way thank you so much, you did a great job I am half way through the Job waiting on buying the sealant before removing the heat exchange plate
Permatex 82194 Ultra Grey would work perfect. It's the same thing as Toyota gray fipg. And the lube I use is Sil Glyde as it won't swell rubber o-rings. www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=asc_df_B000HBGI8K/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312097317052&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17824329096223271698&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033382&hvtargid=pla-437600037492&ref=&adgrpid=57631863970&th=1 www.amazon.com/AGS-SIL-Glyde-Multi-Purpose-Weatherproofing-Lubricating/dp/B0036VMLH0/ref=asc_df_B0036VMLH0/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=332041241935&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18326641651597403897&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033382&hvtargid=pla-586191599437&ref=&adgrpid=66194160629&th=1
Permatex Ultra Grey would work nice and cheaper. It's similar to Toyota FIPG www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=sr_1_1_mod_primary_new?crid=27IWCCJHJUWVN&keywords=permatex%2Bultra%2Bgrey%2B82194&qid=1693198373&s=automotive&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=permatex%2Bultra%2Bgrey%2B82194%2Cautomotive%2C143&sr=1-1&th=1
I believe the original sealant would have been Toyota gray FIPG. I was going to use Motorcraft TA-31 which is similar but was out. At least it has never come back. 🤞
Toyota FIPG is the oem sealant. This is equivalent:www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=asc_df_B000HBGI8K/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312097317052&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8420193565382510940&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033382&hvtargid=pla-437600037492&ref=&adgrpid=57631863970&th=1
Nice job. I prefer "The Right Stuff" gasket sealer . OEMs use it all over the engine. Sitting overnight is key. Starting it up with an uncured sealer is looking for trouble.
The right stuff works great. I'm at a ford dealer so I mostly use the gray Motorcraft TA31 for diesel engines but was out at the time. *It's similar to the right stuff* It sets up real nice and never had a failure. Had some TA29 on hand so rolled with it. I always let jobs like this set overnight. The service writers sometimes don't like it but tell them tough, that's the way it is.
@@JustDvoh They must have not got a good silicone adhesion. Yea, this job is a little difficult and can be screwed up easily so don't blame you for taking a pass. Maybe they will be nice and do it again under warranty?
He makes this look easy fellas. Do more research. This job has made me hate the whole fucking truck. There have several tundra 5.7s in the shop. All for this same coolant leak.
Dang I wished all mechanics was like u.Taking pride of doing it right the first time.Thanks for the video
Nice work. Only thing I’d do different is I always set rags over the exposed intake valves. Always nervous something may drop in there.
Same here! Masking tape works well, too.
Toyota SHAME ON YOU!!! You need to cover this cost!!!! This goes against your reliability reputation. And you need to FIRE the person responsible for this flaw.
A thin aluminum gasket with integrated rubber like a transmission pan gasket would have worked real well for this application instead of silicone.
If this had been a gm or ford it would have catastrophically failed. Good on Toyota for doing it the way they did
@laredopotatoI was looking for a used tundra but all these issues have me scared. What year was your tundra? I might start looking at fords now
Initially I came to watch just the intake manifold removal, but I stayed for the whole thing, as you never know when you might be coming back for a similar problem down the road!
Great video. I watched this a couple of times and it helped me solve my same problem. Sealing up the intakes is a must. You flew over the Air Check Valves in the back and it took me a while to figure out what those were, I missed that 2 seconds in the video the first time. That unit came out easier than I thought it would. Pull the right 2 bolts, pull the back left and push the unit back enough to get a ratcheting wrench on the inside bold and the unit comes out ok. I did remove the check valves first. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! Yea, should have filmed that part of it. It probably is the most tricky part of the whole job. Glad you got it figured out without having to pay someone. Love saving money.
Great job! Thanks for showing us how and the video is clear as crystal
Hey thanks for filming this ,its really helped me to have extra confidence in undertaking this task , not done yet but seeing you get it done even though not experienced is inspiring. Youve got a good grin too at the end, happy day to ya.👍👋
Video was a great help. I consider my self an above average DIYer, I was able to get it done but it was not fun at all. Lots of parts to remove to get down to it. I would highly recommend people to have a shop do this job.
Glad it helped! This job definitely isn't easy.
I gotta do this on my 08 Sequoia sometime this weekend. Thanks for posting!
thanks for that video. I got a Tundra in the garage. had coolant leaks here and there. replaced radiator, pump, thermostat and so on...Still coolant lost. as you said, it took over 3h that the leak occurred. so this heat exchanger job seems to be the last step. I check compression, leak down and co2 test. no cylinderhead failure.
you do a nice job there.
as I also have daily different cars in the garage I always pack my bolts in zip lock bags, give them a tag and put them in order as best as possible. any hose or vacuum line I mark nowadays with a yellow, red and white marker. for my local Cambodian mechanics it looks a waste but in the end I am faster assembling and I never forget a bolt, sensor or vacuum line which can be a pita to find out after the job why suddenly the car is not running at all!
Definitely check it. I bet that is where your leak is. Nice job on your organizational skills!
I had to replace my knock sensor wiring harness and this was a great tutorial on removing the intake, thank you!
Cool. At least your lower plate wasn't leaking. Resealing those adds a bunch more time.
Had to have this done last week. $1350 later, no more leak and intermittent ticking once warm. I will say the factory silicone did almost make it 12 yrs and 200K miles.
Great video, I appreciate all the extra effort to ensure the job is done correctly.
Thanks Doug!
Thank you. I will try to fiddle with it this weekend and will let you know how it turned out.
I’m having this fixed on my gx460 right now. Mechanic told me might as well replace knock sensors too because after putting old ones back on they can fail soon after. It’s turning into an expensive job. I have 150,000 miles now and plan to at least double that so why not.
I have 87k miles on mine and it’s in the shop for The Valley plate leak. I will ask about the knock sensors.
I wish every mechanic was a thoughtful and professional.
my tundra mysteriously drinking coolant and squeel from the water pump on start when cold or damp out 118000 miles im afraid of this, also they say you may crack the heat exchanger when removing best to replace that or you just get another leak thanks for making this video its really helpful!
Excellent video!!! I am having a leak in the back of the manifold as well(2008 5.7 Toyota Sequoia). Where are you located. I really would have loved for you to fix mine. Thank you for sharing awesome presentation.
better to be safe than sorry, put shop towels in those intake runners so nothing gets down there
Good idea. Normally I do that but not that time. I did blow out the ports with compressed air before assembly.
thank you for the video it was very insightful. Mine has a very slight leak coming down the bell housing. Im preparing to tow a trailer 10 hours next week and imagine i better get this done first. how long does this repair take you?
Think it was around 5 hours. Getting the bolts out of the air check assembly is the hardest part. The lower left bolt is a real tight fit but just barely comes out. The rest is pretty straight forward.
Good video but.....Warning for DIYer's: This is not an easy task. This video was edited and some steps were not included, so if you are thinking of doing this on your own, you may want to take a pause. the water tube and the transfer tube are connected to some kind of regulator behind the engine, pretty much everything inside the manifold is connected to that. That is where the main job is. It is not shown how to remove that in the video. I am currently stuck on how to remove that. The knock sensor plate also has a bolt in the back, in a very tight spot, if you loosen it you have no allowance to get it out without dismantling the regulator(whatever it's called). In my case I stripped it trying to remove the plate, I ended up cutting the bracket-ground(not sure if that is what it's called) kind of like a washer in between the plate and the screw to free up the plate. You have to also be ready to disconnect quite a few electrical connectors. RC, could please, add a few steps on how to get that regulator out of the way. Thanks
I think you are talking about the secondary air injection diverter valve assembly. Yea, sorry I didn't film that. I bungee tied the plastic tubes off to the side. You are correct, the hardest part of the job is removing the valve. I take the three bolts out of the valve and then remove the four small bolts holding the tubes on each side. Getting the front passenger side air tube bolt out is a pain, I pry the valve slightly to the driver side to get that bolt out and then slide the valve assembly straight up leaving the two metal tubes intact in the cylinder heads. Hope you have success in your repair!
What I’ve heard is not to tackle the bolt at the firewall, but rather disconnect the valves ate the lower portion of the tubes near the pumps behind the passenger side wheel liner. Then the valves come out with the tube(s) attached.
They should use a rubberized metal basket in that location and it would last the life of the vehicle. Same thing with their V6 timing covers, so wasteful. They think they are saving on production cost but get nailed on warranty when those prematurely fail.
Also agree. A thin rubberized aluminum gasket like manufactures use on transmission pan gaskets would work great plus be much easier to repair.
Great video, keep it cool.
I've watched your video many times prior to working on my recently acquired 2012 Toyota Sequoia. When removing the Air check valve, I broke the 5 pin connector as it was super brittle. I've noticed it's almost identical to the MAF 5 pin connector. Would it be ok to fix the wire harness with MAF connectors instead of the original plug? What did you spray from the blue can when cleaning the mating surface of the coolant reservoir? Thanks for the great video!
I don't see why not if the pins are the same size. I used bulk brake cleaner. Alcohol works fine too.
DONT KNOW IF I'D SAY THAT IT MADE IT 122K MILES, LOOKS LIKE IT MIGHT HAVE BEEN DONE BEFORE BY SOMEONE NOT SO THOUROUGH, NORMALLY FROM THE MANUFACTURER YOU DONT HAVE THE RTV SQUEEZE OUT LIKE THAT HAD, GLAD TO SEE YOU TAKE THE LITTLE STEPS TO DO IT RIGHT, I USED TO USE SYLGLIDE ON MY O-RINGS, THEN I HAD AN OLD TIMER SHOW ME TO USE LIQUID PIPE THREAD SEALER ON THEM, NEVER HAD AN ISSUE EITHER WAY, BUT ANY THOUGHTS ON THAT??
Hey Kevin, how you been? Good eye, you are correct. The more I think about it, Toyota most likely used their gray vulcanizing rubber type sealant from factory so that means the first repair only made it like 20-30k.
Great tip on the pipe dope. I just looked up the composition: A material safety data sheet reports that the "Permatex" 51D pipe joint compound contains kaolin, clay, vegetable oil, rosin, ethanol, etc[citation needed]. The ingredients are designed to:
fill minute spaces between mating pipe fittings (kaolin), and serve as a lubricant as the fittings are forced together (vegetable oil).
Petroleum-based pipe dope is not intended for use on threaded PVC, CPVC or ABS pipe and fittings since it will deteriorate the plastic. Builders in the US are expected to use thread compounds that meet ASTM F2331 - Standard Test Method for Determining Chemical Compatibility of Thread Sealants with Thermoplastic Threaded Pipe and Fittings Materials or thread seal tape on PVC, CPVC and ABS threads.
In summary, if the thread sealer meets F2331 standards then it will work in all automotive applications and not deteriorate/swell up rubber seals. Learn something new everyday!
@@raincitywrench117 been good, and busy, those old timers know a thing or 2 don't they....lol
Ex Fel Pro needs to offer a metal reinforced gasket. Shame on Toyota for this design. Just like the Cam Tower leaks. My 2016 is doing this. Very invasive.
I just got done pulling the front timing case off to replace my timing chain tensioner. Filling the radiator back up and have water running down the back of the block. Despite practicing the install of the cover with a new O-ring on the front of the pipe, I have managed to get a leak. It was a lot of work to pull that case to I am looking at going in through the top. My first attempt will be to try and reseat the pipe from the top after removing the minimal things needed to access. If that doesn't work. I will be doing this next. Do you have a list of O-rings that I need to replace if any? How about part numbers for the knock sensors?
Hi sir
Can i know, does this provlem have for 4.7 v8 petrol land cruiser 200 series 2010..... Im planning to buy one used bit i dont know whether the engine have problems like this... Please help me out..
As far as I know the 4.7L has a different intake and no coolant plate in the valley.
I have a 08 toyota sequoia and going through the same issue, it eating coolant but only when I drive, no leaks on the ground
Buen video, gracias por compartir.
Thank you for the great video! I have this very issue and will be making repairs after Thanksgiving. Quick question, how much coolant did you have to add back? Did you fill after reassembly?
I can't remember but think it was just under two gallons total diluted @ 50/50. If you are in a real cold climate then dilute less according to the bottle. I also use an air lift which makes filling real easy and you won't have to worry about trapped air and overheating. th-cam.com/video/_WCRcuCZI50/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=FordTechMakuloco
Question i have to do this on my 2014. Could i just put the sealant on the bottom half of the valley to lessen the chance of smudge or issues or is it recommended to do the sealant on top?
It doesn't matter what side the sealant is put on as long as the plate is assembled in a timely manner. 👍
@Rain City Wrench appreciate the responce! I plan to tackle this hopefully this week. I just picked up all the gaskets, sealant and coolant today from toyota. Wish me luck haha.
Great job
Wish you'd filmed all the #pain but I understand that's not always convenient.
What's the FRT for this repair?
Great job!👍
-100
If this was a customer pay at our dealer, wouldn't be surprised with a $1500 dollar bill.
@@raincitywrench117So about 8-10 hours + tax & shop supplies...
Thanks.
great job! I'm wondering if this is where I'm losing coolant in my 2007 Tundra with 93,300 miles? I top up the reservoir maybe twice a year but can never find anything physically dripping. Cheers.
Any suggestions on the o-rings? I’ve done this job 3 times in 6 weeks on my tundra because the o rings keep leaking. I put syl-glide on them every time. I’m about ready to cover them in the right stuff and call it good. That pipe may never come off again, but I don’t think it will leak anymore.
Weird. Any corrosion inside the aluminum and are you using Toyota o-rings?
@@raincitywrench117 I am using Toyota o-rings. Someone else on here just told me the coolant pipe from the water pump to the heat exchanger has been updated. I ordered one of those, hopefully that does the trick.
I believe I have this issue in my ‘15 sequoia. Local mechanic can’t find leak even with pressure test, running down bell housing, coolant mysteriously low… My truck has 165K miles and this is behind my capabilities. Will the build up of coolant residue hurt anything if I drive it like this for a while just refilling the coolant regularly? I don’t want to spend the money on it right now.
Nope. Won't hurt at all. Good chance this is the leak though. I would have it pressure tested overnight and then inspected thoroughly next day
I have the exact problem. I even took the car to the shop to reseal the engine valley plate and the leak is still occurring. LMK if you found a fix that wasn't the valley plate seal
Good job, valley plate leak is pretty common cheers.
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the video @raincitywrench117. I'm having the same issue on a 2011 200 Land Cruiser. Toyota dealer suggested replacing the knock sensors as well at $250 a piece, there are 4. What is your opinion on replacing the knock sensors while they are in there? Toyota quoted $3K for parts and labor. Ouch!!
Yikes! I never replace knock sensors unless they are bad. Plus, have only replaced two or three knock sensors in my entire 30 year career. I believe two were on Nissans. If one was to go bad they are easy to do, only the intake has to be removed. The knock sensor bolts do need to be torqued and not run down with an impact.
@@raincitywrench117 Thank you! I really appreciate your input.
Great info. I'm trying to find the source of the coolant loss and hoping this isn't the cause. Doesn't look fun.
If it's coming down the back of engine block then unfortunately this will probably be the cause.
Awesome Video
On minute 5:14. How did you remove that bolt. It looks like a bolt with bit head? Can you please link the socket size or tool to remove it?
It's an E Torx socket. Think it was an E6 or an E8. Here is a set:www.amazon.com/14pcs-Female-Torx-Socket-drive/dp/B089B268KL/ref=asc_df_B089B268KL/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459657803259&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8513986803556923626&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033404&hvtargid=pla-942538511940&psc=1
I’m currently going through this issue. What silicone do you recommend use on the cover.
Permatex ultra grey would work great.
Obviously, toyota FIP didn't work so well. Have some bad luck with permatex grey.
Have you ever tried the permatex right stuff?
How many miles will your repairs usually get a vehicle le by
Great vid. New sub
Thank you for your video. May I ask what grid of your gasket removal wheel do you use and do you use Toyota silicone gasket?
Red (medium) Scotch-Brite pad with Toyota FIPG would work perfect.
www.amazon.com/Black-Hawk-Surface-Conditioning-Change/dp/B01HUNK1ZS/ref=asc_df_B01HUNK1ZS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807921328&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=858608325201538513&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033382&hvtargid=pla-571314866796&th=1
www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=asc_df_B000HBGI8K/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312097317052&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6812777214562088217&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033382&hvtargid=pla-437600037492&ref=&adgrpid=57631863970&th=1
Was the water pump leaking too? I got confused. Or is it just the intake? I have the same exact problem on my 2010 sequoia.
Yes. The water pump was leaking too. The coolant leaking from the front was from the pump & the leak down the rear was from the intake plate.
@@raincitywrench117 I’ll check if the pump is leaking 🤞🏽 lol. What kind of silicon can I use for the intake plate? Can I use a head gasket silicon?
@@rashadatifrsindi9828 I like Motorcraft TA-31. Use it on almost everything, thick and tacky gray material like what oem manufactures use to seal engines and transmissions. I just so happened to be out the day I shot the video or else that's what I would have used.
@@raincitywrench117 Thanks dude. You're the best. I also wanted to ask about the impact wrench you're using. I noticed that you're using regular socket and not impact sockets ( low torque applications of course). Do they fit fine? What drive size do you recommend? I was thinking of buying Kimo th-cam.com/video/k0-tPJJBAUE/w-d-xo.html . I am just scared my regular sockets won't fit because the kit includes a couple of sockets only.
@@rashadatifrsindi9828 The Kimo unit looks good for the price. I think the best is milwaukee but they are like 3 times more. I prefer 1/2 drive for heavy duty work like lug nuts, frame bolts, suspension bolts exhaust manifolds, etc & 3/8 for most everything else then use 1/4" for light duty applications like air filter housings, headlights, dash work, etc.
I pretty much use impact sockets for most of my jobs. You shouldn't have a problem fitting any brand sockets on the Kimo.
Just got my sequoia repaired at Toyota and woke up to coolant back on the ground and radiator empty so they didnt fix it. Toyota is an hour away so would it be safe to fill it back up and drive it there or get it towed so they can fix what they didn't fix?
That stinks ☹ Did you get it back up there and fixed?
Hi brother how much does it cost to fix it..... Is it a common problem in every model sequio 😬...... Im planning to buy one but does it cost too much.... Please reply and help
I believe this job took almost six hours so not that terrible. If the repair shops in your area are $200hr then that would make it $1200 bucks plus a few seals.
I am in Atlanta. Never mind I think you are ways away. Thanks anyway.
Sub and liked thanxs for this clip👍🏼🙏🏻
What about putting silicone in both seal faces instead of a tiny bed in one side?, I saw a guy do this in a Lexus IS and looks like it woukd seal better
Have never tried it but don't see why it wouldn't work just fine.
Mine is leaking clear water from the back of the intake , it’s not coolant because it doesn’t have a color. What could it be ?
Strange? If your coolant level isn't dropping then it's definitely something else. There are two air injection tubes that run under the intake that can build up water inside but that would mean one of the black plastic tubes is cracked. Sure it's not condensation leaking from the evaporator drain?
I was going to use PERMATEX® WATER PUMP & THERMOSTAT RTV SILICONE GASKET MAKER. would that be a good idea?
That will work great.
I have an 08 Sequoia and suspect I may have this problem. What is the cost to have this done at a shop? Thanks for a great channel!
I think this was around a 6 hour job so depending on the labor rates in your area my guess would be at least $1500
@@raincitywrench117 Thank you! I was able to remove the intake manifold and thankfully there was no sign of leaking...thanks again for the channel!
Can this be diagnosed without removing the intake? A small camera fed in from front or back?
Yes, you can use and inspection mirror and take a peek under the back of the intake manifold. There are a few spots from the front where you will be able to barely see the plate down in the valley with flashlight.
Can someone put the part numbers in for the orings on the cross over pipe for the distribution plate
The large coolant pipe o-rings are #96761-35035
www.ebay.com/itm/284519665139?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=284519665139&targetid=1262779893049&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9033382&poi=&campaignid=14859008593&mkgroupid=130497710760&rlsatarget=pla-1262779893049&abcId=9300678&merchantid=6296724&gclid=CjwKCAiA8bqOBhANEiwA-sIlN4B2mZ-Gt_Sam9O768pfktz1LOUXCGXQWwpJUNa3qC8GnJ8PHD--LBoCXxEQAvD_BwE
I broke the plastic manifold by lifting up on the front to replace the knock sensor harness. i was originally trying to sneak the harness in without removing the manifold. The back 2 bolts were in place and the manifold broke where those last 2 bolts attach. Dumb mistake, yes. This was after watching about a dozen videos to make sure that I had all the bolts. But none of the videos mentioned how many bolts to remove. Anyway now I'm trying to decide if there's any way that plastic welding or JB weld is strong enough to attach the rear pieces to the manifold or the other bolts will create enough of a seal? This is all caused by a mouse that made a nest inside and chewed up my wiring harness
Stupid mice! May see if you can snag one cheap off eBay or at local wrecking yard?
@@raincitywrench117 Yeah, was looking at used manifold options. Actually I decided to use a really strong glue to put the manifold bolt tabs back for the back 2 bolts. It was a gamble, yes. But I was able to get an extremely strong bond. So far the vehicle is working perfectly with that repair. It also probably helps that the manifold only needs 15 ft pounds of torque on it!
Found a coolant leak under the reservoir of my 98 K1500 Silverado, had replaced the water pump last year and replaced the gaskets under cylinder head.
It’s not the heater core, I’m leaning towards the intake manifold gasket or worn out connector hoses connected to the metal pipes.
Can I get your opinion on this before I get more work done and spending more money then I need to?
These are real common for the intake manifold gaskets to leak. The original gaskets are plastic and they make an updated metal/rubber gasket. I would have the cooling system pressure tested and leave it under pressure overnight to find the leak. You can pick up a fairly cheap pressure tester at harbor freight if you want to do it yourself. www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-MS-98000-Permadryplus-Manifold/dp/B000CH0C0Y/ref=asc_df_B000CH0C0Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312061942313&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4303600977851000936&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033382&hvtargid=pla-434880887414&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63195598318&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312061942313&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4303600977851000936&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033382&hvtargid=pla-434880887414
@@raincitywrench117 Thank you
What do you use for cleaning in the blue container?
It's bulk brake parts wash from a 55 gallon barrel that the shop supplies. Any can of brake parts cleaner from a parts store will work great.
dang o rings are killing me. front cover on wont seat and keep rolling out
Me too. Any luck? Advice?
Does it matter which part you put the silicone bead on? seems like it might be easier to put the bead on the engine and then set the part on top? Just wondering as im doing this tonight. Thanks.
Get it fixed up? No, it doesn't matter which surface you apply the silicone. Personal preference
@@raincitywrench117 OMG, that bolt on the EGR tube was insanely difficult. Also, How do you know if the coolant pipe on heat exchanger is seated properly? Mine didnt and I had to take off intake again, then used channel locks to move and twist pipe until it stopped leaking. Im crossing my fingers I dont need to tear it all the way down again. Massive PITA
@@jasonsmith7809 Yea, that one bolt isn't fun. The coolant pipe "floats" in the center and it will only go so far in each direction. You may have had a little corrosion or gunk stuck in the bore. Reusing or not installing Toyota o-rings could also give you problems.
@@raincitywrench117 thanks for your advice. Im gonna rip the exchange plate off and try again.
Did you smell coolant when it was warmed up and running ?
I never spent much time with it before repairing but these leaks will definitely make it smell like coolant once warm.
what gasket did you use to replace it?
I used Motorcraft TA29. I would have used TA31 but was out. That stuff works awesome, use on everything. Here is the factory sealant: TOYOTA & LEXUS 00295-00103 GRAY O.E.M FOR ALL MODELS F.I.P.G GASKET MAKER
I’ve never done a newer vehicle like this…what gaskets are needed to put the manifold back on?
You need the coolant pipe o-rings and intake plenum gaskets plus some FIPG sealant to silicone down the plate
Good video
What sealer did you use? If you said sorry I missed it. Did you use toyota FIP sealer
Used Motorcraft TA357 but gray Toyota FIPG would be best.
What silicone to use? Any specific kind?
Use Toyota FIPG or equivalent www.amazon.com/Toyota-Genuine-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0
www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=sr_1_1?crid=GYISWRYKQCF0&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6eKLPo-6ohh2IIZAIqEJaBGPZdlzsRq_mdnCz3sJLRjClOI5vjUEHDxTzzeC_0VINpVNQEkQZAL0__HxAq6YNRFWGekL9vq5hinMEQ5Eym8ifFiZC6ursW9OVnS75pjxVxu3x9QW15ry8alhhdeW7XsTChxBj62DH3f9UrE3W44UldgyjF5CaeiLXQfdeniQ5A93NHaUlkvxDvkrtRZm6enHbzbGaX5RZc08R6Lw2U6kv8OfqFNyAcV-i0uEeExf14DtRChV3K13OZbIKgFxEzRoE76f4sjmQTMrreHkLxo.8iq6RhfmZ5LPTPuFhAovYHdSD3WmpUWNY3pIfjIGXkk&dib_tag=se&keywords=ultra+gray+silicone+automotive&qid=1717563527&s=automotive&sprefix=ultra+gray%2Cautomotive%2C145&sr=1-1
What sealant or silicone did you use or recommend?
I used Motorcraft TA 357. Toyota FIPG is recommended. Permatex Ultra Grey would also work great. www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=sr_1_1_mod_primary_new?crid=30XEDELDP7QK1&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6eKLPo-6ohh2IIZAIqEJaBT7kafYpRdMsZYfdg2D_q-AhRVLb7hmDqntzG8-isjhkcff1C26TYlSDV-OH9DhYn5HZVbh-NgULKXjvqTnD_SnqcG9VdvJbwP4YqNGiAQQzbH1eOwj44MxjTB4Nk-TRT2P5WNK9eCeXOeV-i9cPhlPGLJjiKwGQQZSUuZbmV5HzgAB7QP3607yGNEyV130-Lh8ywfTPRG2RplEviWkad-Df5jZ3rUa3zZYYCbARoovvss5HVvMjKjvNgmtbK411l23I8dpGGJ3jAZkZwbmSgI.nEp4bbsBAR5kaFVIoVcwag6h532He1hRmuOyvI1EONU&dib_tag=se&keywords=Permatex%2B82194&qid=1710738217&s=automotive&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=permatex%2B82194%2Cautomotive%2C145&sr=1-1&th=1
I’ve done a couple of 5.7L water pumps, is this more difficult than those?
It's a little more difficult and time consuming but you can do it. 👍
How much would labor cost to repair if I took it to a mechanic?
I believe that was a five hour repair and the labor rate in my area is almost $200hr so that would put this job around a thousand bucks.
Torque wrench brand ? Am looking for some one like it.
Cornwell but they have discontinued that unit. Here is the replacement:webcat.cornwelltools.com/CTG3000ANGX-3-8-Drive-Electronic-Digital-Torque-Wrench-p373537414 I have the 1/2 version of this unit. Both are fantastic. Feature angle mode + have aluminum handles. Prices are ridiculous though.
Thanks!!!!
You bet!
What silicone did you use????
Motorcraft TA-357 but Toyota FIPG is the factory sealant. Permatex Ultra Grey would also work great www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-12PK-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B001REZBIE/ref=asc_df_B001REZBIE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693070740373&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5178546024868755165&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033404&hvtargid=pla-434484252858&mcid=8f30e72b8eaa3d469687bad324eeff46&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0MexBhD3ARIsAEI3WHIBBBYWfSpx0D06gJzSDcae6u83gKqIkUEDbJD6SfPJcHEEoMPCAtsaAiqiEALw_wcB&th=1
I have an ‘08 Tundra with the same issue. How much does this cost?
Estimate will vary depending on shop labor rate but my guess is $1500 give or take
How do you know if the coolant pipe is seated correctly? Mine leaks after installation.
I’ve done this job 3 times in last 6 weeks because my o-rings keep leaking. I think I’m going to cover them in the same silicone that I’m using to hold down the heat exchanger. It’s crazy. If I stay under 65 mph then I don’t leak at all, but if I get around 75-80 mph my temp gauge starts rising and it spits coolant from that pipe.
@@ryanalexander984 I bought a new coolant pipe, slightly updated part and pretty cheap. Make sure you put a ton of silicone grease on the o-rings so they dont get pushed off their seat when you put the pipe back in heat exchanger.
Not smart to use that disc. Should use just Scotch rite by hand only.Disc takes off too much material and is harder to control.
I agree. Almost never use the disc on aluminum but since this was such a small flange, wanted to give the surface some grit for the silicone to "bite"
Nice work
any recommendation on the seal type as my dealer has no clue what kind of gasket maker seal is it. also what type of lube used to install the O ring on the small tube and by the way thank you so much, you did a great job I am half way through the Job waiting on buying the sealant before removing the heat exchange plate
Permatex 82194 Ultra Grey would work perfect. It's the same thing as Toyota gray fipg. And the lube I use is Sil Glyde as it won't swell rubber o-rings. www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=asc_df_B000HBGI8K/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312097317052&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17824329096223271698&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033382&hvtargid=pla-437600037492&ref=&adgrpid=57631863970&th=1
www.amazon.com/AGS-SIL-Glyde-Multi-Purpose-Weatherproofing-Lubricating/dp/B0036VMLH0/ref=asc_df_B0036VMLH0/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=332041241935&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18326641651597403897&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033382&hvtargid=pla-586191599437&ref=&adgrpid=66194160629&th=1
I always cringe when I see a perfectly machined gasket surface being attacked with so called gasket buffs, yes they do take material off.😢
ever have to change a head gasket on one of these ?
Have had the entire front of the engine apart but never pulled the heads on one.... yet. Definitely would be a labor intensive job.
Having that problem now
Yuck 😢 Not the easiest of repairs
What sealant do you recommend? Is there something better than Toyota’s?
Permatex Ultra Grey would work nice and cheaper. It's similar to Toyota FIPG
www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=sr_1_1_mod_primary_new?crid=27IWCCJHJUWVN&keywords=permatex%2Bultra%2Bgrey%2B82194&qid=1693198373&s=automotive&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=permatex%2Bultra%2Bgrey%2B82194%2Cautomotive%2C143&sr=1-1&th=1
I bet it wouldn't leak if you used anaerobic sealer
I believe the original sealant would have been Toyota gray FIPG. I was going to use Motorcraft TA-31 which is similar but was out. At least it has never come back. 🤞
What would a job like this cost at a shop?
I think our shop labor rate is over $200hr so this job would be well over a thousand dollars.
How much is a job like this including parts
Estimate will vary depending on shop labor rate but my guess is $1500 give or take
I’m paying $1600 all in. New hoses, grommets, fittings etc. I have a Lexus GX460 though.
The car dentist 😬 😫 jajaj
Great job will have to do this to my Tundra...
Wich sealand you used..
Toyota FIPG is the oem sealant. This is equivalent:www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=asc_df_B000HBGI8K/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312097317052&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8420193565382510940&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033382&hvtargid=pla-437600037492&ref=&adgrpid=57631863970&th=1
How much would it cost to do a job like this?
Estimate will vary depending on shop labor rate but my guess is $1500 give or take
Nice job. I prefer "The Right Stuff" gasket sealer . OEMs use it all over the engine. Sitting overnight is key. Starting it up with an uncured sealer is looking for trouble.
The right stuff works great. I'm at a ford dealer so I mostly use the gray Motorcraft TA31 for diesel engines but was out at the time. *It's similar to the right stuff* It sets up real nice and never had a failure. Had some TA29 on hand so rolled with it. I always let jobs like this set overnight. The service writers sometimes don't like it but tell them tough, that's the way it is.
Fix mine please!
You can dooo it! -waterboy-
I paid someone like $700 to do it about a year ago. Leak came back slowly. I can do some basic vehicle maintenance but this may be beyond me.
@@JustDvoh They must have not got a good silicone adhesion. Yea, this job is a little difficult and can be screwed up easily so don't blame you for taking a pass. Maybe they will be nice and do it again under warranty?
He makes this look easy fellas. Do more research. This job has made me hate the whole fucking truck. There have several tundra 5.7s in the shop. All for this same coolant leak.
Sorry. Should have made a disclaimer saying this job can be very difficult.
Me cursing about those back bolts. Though didn't look like I had any intake leaks...
Pretty worthless engine but as a mechanic I thank toyota everyday for keeping my wallet full of money !$!