UPDATE: Not even a couple days after filming, I’m starting to see a second tiny roll in the SAME spot on the SR1 that the SR1 lite had. This means that even the SR1 will damage by simply closing the blade. It wasn’t as apparent probably because the s35 was taking longer to wear. Huge disappointment! I’ll be reaching out to cold steel.
Just trying to help. You said, on your Original, CPM-S35VN, SR1 Folder, that when you depressed the Lock-Bar, while the Blade is in the Folded Position, your Blade hits the Leaf-Spring. Is this what's happening, when you use your SR1 this way? With that said, why are you depressing the Lock-Bar to open your Tri-Ad Folder? The only time you should be depressing the Lock-Bar, is when the Folder is in the open position and you need to unlock the Blade so you can close your folder. But, you only depress the Lock-Bar, just long enough to unlock your folder. Perhaps, you're not using this lock type correctly... But, if this isn't the case and the Blade is hitting the Leaf-Spring, while you are using the Folder correctly, then, contact GSM, Cold Steel and see if they'll help you out and let you send in your Folders for replacement. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
@@Kris_Stiletto I don’t use the lock to open them. The two spots that hit. Like I said, one of the spots hit the spring just by closing the blade on its own. The other spot hits the ledge if you try to close the knife one handed. That one would be if you depress the lock and let the blade drop shut.
Anche ul mio tanto sr1 liye 72 euro tutto skeggiato lo tirato kontro un tavolo di frassino o poi è caduto a terra la punta del tanto se pure skeggiata 70 euro fa skfo tutto skeggiato handrhas blazer e meglio del sr1 lite ora o preso sr1 clip point 64 euro 65 euro spero sia non così mi arriva oggi o domani mercoledì entro giovedì deluso dal sr1 lite 72 euro meglio hsndrahas 50 euro ma in d2 e in g10 o il warrior o il general o assassin difatti o preso il warrior handrhas e sr1 lite lo fatti scontrare lama contro lama sr1 se skeggisto o cioppato battonig kon un martello di ferro lama se rotta tutta o meglio graffia skeggiata okkio nudo poi il tanto non è da tiro né da buskraft solo da combattimento 72 euro buttati ora 65 euro preso clip point a kora deve arrivarmi ordinato venerdì mattina siamo a martedì ma mi arriva mercoledì o giovedì.....😢
What's wrong with people $hitting all over this guy's video. He's sharing some good valuable observations here for free. No blade should be chipped using the knife, that should be built into design. Now you can advise us how to avoid the problem after we bought it, but still this video makes some good points. THANKS for taking the time to put it together.
Update: I've reached out to GSM, and they requested photos. I sent photos and also a reference to your video explanation. We'll see how it goes. Thank you again for this video.
Clarification: i called them and got a live person and got the service ticket that way. . I received the replacement after 15 days from shipping to them. And so far, following the rules in the comments: . Open using thumb stud only . Disengage the lock, but dont hold the lock too long . And so far, it's been okay. I'll keep ya'll posted 😊
I will say this , That is the one knife that bit me bad while one handing the lock back while closing. I had my index finger a little too low on the handle and I thought it cut my finger completely off. Learned a valuable lesson about playing with knives that’s new to you
Hola gracias por el video me fue útil ! Me pasaba lo mismo en la lite drop point, me dejaba una pequeña mecha y no sabía porqué, entonces probé sacando solo una cacha y ver el problema, efectivamente la hoja cerrada tocaba con el resorte!! El cuál lo quite y lo aplaste 3 mm y el problema fue resuelto! No toca más la hoja !! Es muy sencillo de hacer !! Gracias
faxcil x t io k non so manko svita na vittanto balllla lama una mrda sr1 lit una mrda 2 cambia il trso rso mi da i soldi kuando mai la cold stl balllla lama dai
Just bought one of these (SR1 Lite) and have read several reviews about this happening. I figured it might be something I need to fix/tweak on a $35 sharp crow bar. This thing is a beast, most knife for the dollar I have purchased and I have dozens. Not sure if they have fixed the issue but my tanto version has not had this issue. Best beater knife I own so far.
I have several SR1 Tanto Folders in both the Lite and Regular Models. None of mine have this issue. I would suggest that you contact GSM, Cold Steel for a replacement. Sorry to hear that you are having problems. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
@@Jeremy-TwoI previously said I didn't have this issue. Recently, I was trying to fidget with my New SR1. And, I noticed my Blade got a small, tiny, ding. I was opening and closing the Blade fast. Mine is touching the Lock-Bar in the same place. This is the first one I tried fidgeting with. Mine is the Clip. But, I also noticed a small, tiny, ding in the same area on my Tanto SR1, also. I will make a Video on this issue. The SR1 Series is one of my personal favorites for Heavy-Duty Use Folders. I want to ask everyone if they have ideas on how to fix this issue; the SR1 is an awesome Heavy-Duty Folder; it might just not be the best choice for Fidgeting... :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
Received my SR1 a few days ago and have been carrying it since then. Great knife. I like it. I like its toughness over my previous Spyderco PM2 EDC knife which I carried for 3 years exclusively and broke the tip two times until it was sturdy enough to withstand "my" handling. Already cut up stuff and opened boxed and so far this knife is neither too big nor the blade not as sharp and "slicey" as some people make it out to be. Tried everything to get the same detents on the edge as you but no luck so far. My knife doesn't have this issue.
@MNWoodland I never had that happen. I have two SR1 Lites. It's possible the spring is slightly forward or and should be pushed back further in its slot.
just purchased SR1 tanto a few weeks ago, no issues. i did have to sand down scales under pocket clip and tweek tension on clip. it arrived impossible to clip over pants pocket. other than that, i love the beast. i purchased it for my edc work knife as a home re-modeler.
Could you update. What happened and did Coldsteel reimburse you or fixed the problem on later production? I am interested to buy a SR1 but won't do it before I know if they have fixed the problem (changing the tolerances would do I think). Also I want to thank you for sharing this valuable information. Thanks! :)
@@MNWoodland Ok, thank you for letting me know. I think I will start looking for another solid tank folder... but it is not easy. Do you have any suggestions?
@@Riedenlow I don’t have any other tank folders, maybe the ad-10, but that might have the same issue with the triad lock. So if you want cold steel, the ad-15 has a different style lock. Would say possibly the Benchmade Adamas. Expensive, and at the same time, I personally don’t trust that lock either because I’ve had an omega spring break before.
I actually have a SR1 Lite Tanto and mine doesn't have any chips or problems, but that issue would totally mess mess with my ocd. I think that maybe because I always close my folders gently, but I sure do snap them open pretty loud when using my SR1 Lite. Well that sucks. Mine is an old model because a friend of mine gave it to me and I love this knife, it's scary sharp, I honed the holy hell out of it too! Hopefully CS addressed these issues.
Same. just bought the knife yesterday, closed it a fiew times lucky managed to make just a small dent on the blade ,opened it with the knife folded. THE BLADE WAS TOUCHING THE SPRING. well shit I thought.. I bent the spring a bit like you said. now the there s a small space between . oiled it and put it back together ,gave it the edge back. all good now. that seems to fix the problem. just use both hands when folding. thank you for the fix.
I recently purchased the sr1 and the sr1 light, and they both came with the same type of chip in the edge. I own many other cold Steals with the Triad lock and this is never been an issue.
I tested out a few different tri-ads after watching this. Most are impossible or very hard to close the knife that way. My SR1 lite does seem to be the easiest one to do this although I wasn't trying to test it hard. With my limited experiment, it seems to be something about that particular model. However, I never had an issue because I don't close the knife that way.
I have both drop point and tanto for SR1 Lite... no problems at all..... I have been using the tanto for 1 year... still no problems at all... perhaps you got a bad deal????
This is an easy fix..take apart and use sand paper where the edge contacts the lockbar..took me like 15 mins to take apart fix the problem and put back together
@DjrWalsh i love this knife, especially with the snaggletooth mod. I stuck a cotton ball in there to buffer it but I might just have to bite the bullet and open it up and sand it. I just didn't want to void the warranty :-(
Thanks just got the knife and after this video i tried closing my knife a little harder to see if it caused damaged, and yes it did now im gonna send it back
The older one 62K1 has 8Cr13MoV steel in clam pack, the newer one 62K1Z has 8Cr14MoV in blister pack, same problem or fixed? It probably does not even matter as the Lite model is the only one that stays together after the Joe X destruction test. I'm getting several after watching it.
My biggest problem with the Tri-Ad lock is that I practically have to bruise my thumb to disengage the lock and close the blade. Some don't have this problem, but others do. My Mackinac Hunter model is so bad I rarely carry it.
all my cold steels (sr1, 4max scout, hold out 3, recon 1, talwar, tuff lite) have this issue. it's just the nature of the beast with the triad-lock, some of them become slightly smoother with use, some of them don't. i got used to it but i understand when someone dislikes it, adding a little notch in their locking bar and chamfering the edges would probably help a lot.
Just bend the spring videos on it didn't use my air lite before adjusting it now its easy to press the lock back and you can fling it out with a little effort it sweet now
i'm really sorry that you have these issues, the edge hitting the inside of a knife when closed is an absolute no-go and would be a instant return for me. my sr1 doesn't have this problem (just checked the edge) and i flick it shut all the time with the lock pressed down, so either they fixed it in the new versions or i was somehow lucky. either way, it's a huge design flaw no matter what.
Yep, I have a chip on my tanto lite right where yours is. Apparently, not all SR-1's have this problem. I know cause I have both lites, and both premiums. The tanto is the only one chipped but, it's also in my backpack 24/7 and my pack gets pretty banged up! Still though, this is a very interesting issue!
This is ridiculous. Its caused by pressing the lock bar with the knife closed. If you remove the show side scale you will see where the blade is stopped by a pin, and that it is nowhere near the lock bar. You will also notice that when you depress the lock bar with the scale off, you can clearly see the contact with the blade.
I have a sr1 lite tanto and have the same problem but mine have only one roll in the blade an its not the triad lock is the pin that stop the blade when close its the knife design have this problem I have more pocket knives from cold steel and no have this problem with others of my knives
i was watching this video then looked over at the edge on my SR1 lite tanto... yup have the rolled edge from hitting the spring. This knife is only 1 week old too. Serious bummer
I am writing a new comment instead of editing my comment from a day ago because it's that important. I did NOT try to do one hand close, I learn that if I press the tri-ad lock deep enough, the blade is free to swing easily. I was just practicing one hand open and push it hard enough that the blade DROPPED, I got CUT 3 times in a day. Not bad, but see blood. As for how to check whether the the lock make contact to the edge of the blade, it's easy. Close the blade all the way, hold the knife with one hand keeping the blade close, use the other hand to push the lock button ALL THE WAY DOWN. If you feel the blade is being pushed out, the lock is hitting the blade. This will cause damage if you let the blade drop close like in the video. I have the Cold Steel Rajah III, the blade does not contact the lock, so it won't hurt the edge. People have to try the others to see.
Don't try do one hand close!! It's not meant to be, don't be fancy. Important thing is one hand deploy, why even worry about one hand closing. Stupid people insist in one hand close on those liner lock, they have to make the spring action so weak that it usually don't lock that well. I have to drill the detend hole out a little, bend out the liner lock to make it stronger to get it more secure. The idea applies here also, people try to be fancy, start complaining and they will make the spring weaker for easier control one hand closing. That will make the knife less safe. The point is don't do fancy things, fast deploy is important, take your time to close it with 2 hands!!! There is always give and take, you make it too easy to do one hand, you weaken the design when it really matters. I do weight training and I am not weak. I have a hell of a time pushing the lock like you did with one hand releasing the blade. it dropped and almost cut my finger. Don't give people any more this kind of idea.
I can see that being a problem if you are trying to close it like it's the ad15 or a shark lock then yes you will have that happen, now when I'm opening and closing my sr1, 4 max, code 4, rajah frankly any tri ad lock I'm using 2 hands simply because I've cut myself with the 4max when closing and it would of took off my finger but only took off a piece of skin very scary ever since then always with 2 hands I'm not to proud I'm 10 fingered and want to stay that way lol
The blade shape is the difference but no one should put pressure on a back lock on any knife, it’s a rule your father should have taught you as a child.
1. Check pinned comment. The expensive one has the same problem, didn’t see it until after the video. So the one flaw is not user error. 2. Even if it was only the cheaper one, there are other knives comparable in price to $36 that don’t have the problem. A blade should never hit the hit the back and damage the edge. That’s a design flaw.
Io lo pagato gennaio febraio 2024 72 euro tantob75 clip point no 40 o 37 da 72 euro a 64 euro ser1 liteccosta dai 74 in su fi o a 70 72 💶 ma non è buono carrarmato e il poket busmano 50 euro ma è una bestia bomba ha mano a 🎉
@@whatever3773 did you watch all of the video watch 4:00 to 4:21 he show how he did he it. and as I said 130$ knife is a little bit of a problem but the lite witch is 37$ is not a problem it is 8Cr13MoV witch is not the best steal. cold steel should fix sr1 because it is 130$ but you can strop it out on both with some good compound it will come right out. and I'm not rich just stating facts so I'm sticking with use error. and for less than 40$ for a sharpened pocket pry bar is a steel of a deal.
UPDATE: Not even a couple days after filming, I’m starting to see a second tiny roll in the SAME spot on the SR1 that the SR1 lite had. This means that even the SR1 will damage by simply closing the blade. It wasn’t as apparent probably because the s35 was taking longer to wear. Huge disappointment! I’ll be reaching out to cold steel.
Just trying to help. You said, on your Original, CPM-S35VN, SR1 Folder, that when you depressed the Lock-Bar, while the Blade is in the Folded Position, your Blade hits the Leaf-Spring. Is this what's happening, when you use your SR1 this way? With that said, why are you depressing the Lock-Bar to open your Tri-Ad Folder?
The only time you should be depressing the Lock-Bar, is when the Folder is in the open position and you need to unlock the Blade so you can close your folder. But, you only depress the Lock-Bar, just long enough to unlock your folder. Perhaps, you're not using this lock type correctly...
But, if this isn't the case and the Blade is hitting the Leaf-Spring, while you are using the Folder correctly, then, contact GSM, Cold Steel and see if they'll help you out and let you send in your Folders for replacement. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
@@Kris_Stiletto I don’t use the lock to open them. The two spots that hit. Like I said, one of the spots hit the spring just by closing the blade on its own. The other spot hits the ledge if you try to close the knife one handed. That one would be if you depress the lock and let the blade drop shut.
Anche ul mio tanto sr1 liye 72 euro tutto skeggiato lo tirato kontro un tavolo di frassino o poi è caduto a terra la punta del tanto se pure skeggiata 70 euro fa skfo tutto skeggiato handrhas blazer e meglio del sr1 lite ora o preso sr1 clip point 64 euro 65 euro spero sia non così mi arriva oggi o domani mercoledì entro giovedì deluso dal sr1 lite 72 euro meglio hsndrahas 50 euro ma in d2 e in g10 o il warrior o il general o assassin difatti o preso il warrior handrhas e sr1 lite lo fatti scontrare lama contro lama sr1 se skeggisto o cioppato battonig kon un martello di ferro lama se rotta tutta o meglio graffia skeggiata okkio nudo poi il tanto non è da tiro né da buskraft solo da combattimento 72 euro buttati ora 65 euro preso clip point a kora deve arrivarmi ordinato venerdì mattina siamo a martedì ma mi arriva mercoledì o giovedì.....😢
Any response from cold steel or GSM yet?
What's wrong with people $hitting all over this guy's video. He's sharing some good valuable observations here for free. No blade should be chipped using the knife, that should be built into design. Now you can advise us how to avoid the problem after we bought it, but still this video makes some good points. THANKS for taking the time to put it together.
Much appreciated.
That explanation at 6:30 makes so much sense. I have both chips too.
Update: I've reached out to GSM, and they requested photos. I sent photos and also a reference to your video explanation. We'll see how it goes. Thank you again for this video.
Nice. I emailed them 3 separate times and I never got a response. I used the email directly from their website.
@MNWoodland
so no customer support on top of selling you two faulty products, that is bad...really bad!
Clarification: i called them and got a live person and got the service ticket that way.
.
I received the replacement after 15 days from shipping to them. And so far, following the rules in the comments:
.
Open using thumb stud only
.
Disengage the lock, but dont hold the lock too long
.
And so far, it's been okay. I'll keep ya'll posted 😊
I will say this , That is the one knife that bit me bad while one handing the lock back while closing. I had my index finger a little too low on the handle and I thought it cut my finger completely off. Learned a valuable lesson about playing with knives that’s new to you
Same thing on my air lite learned quickly not to do that again 😅
bro i had that with my 4 max..i bet u can already imagine how bad it was lol
My sr1 lite got me the same right at the knuckle on my fingertip
Hola gracias por el video me fue útil ! Me pasaba lo mismo en la lite drop point, me dejaba una pequeña mecha y no sabía porqué, entonces probé sacando solo una cacha y ver el problema, efectivamente la hoja cerrada tocaba con el resorte!! El cuál lo quite y lo aplaste 3 mm y el problema fue resuelto! No toca más la hoja !! Es muy sencillo de hacer !! Gracias
il tanto lama balllla lama svita 2 cambi dopo frrracosto rso una mèrda
faxcil x t io k non so manko svita na vittanto balllla lama una mrda sr1 lit una mrda 2 cambia il trso rso mi da i soldi kuando mai la cold stl balllla lama dai
Just bought one of these (SR1 Lite) and have read several reviews about this happening. I figured it might be something I need to fix/tweak on a $35 sharp crow bar. This thing is a beast, most knife for the dollar I have purchased and I have dozens. Not sure if they have fixed the issue but my tanto version has not had this issue. Best beater knife I own so far.
I have several SR1 Tanto Folders in both the Lite and Regular Models. None of mine have this issue. I would suggest that you contact GSM, Cold Steel for a replacement. Sorry to hear that you are having problems. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
@user-du5wc7ye4e Both. I have both, Original and GSM Models. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
I agree with you Stiletto.
@@Jeremy-TwoI previously said I didn't have this issue. Recently, I was trying to fidget with my New SR1. And, I noticed my Blade got a small, tiny, ding. I was opening and closing the Blade fast. Mine is touching the Lock-Bar in the same place.
This is the first one I tried fidgeting with. Mine is the Clip. But, I also noticed a small, tiny, ding in the same area on my Tanto SR1, also. I will make a Video on this issue.
The SR1 Series is one of my personal favorites for Heavy-Duty Use Folders. I want to ask everyone if they have ideas on how to fix this issue; the SR1 is an awesome Heavy-Duty Folder; it might just not be the best choice for Fidgeting... :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
@@Kris_Stiletto The SR1 folder is the best. However, it would be better with Recon 1 handle scale shape. Thicker scales.
Received my SR1 a few days ago and have been carrying it since then. Great knife. I like it. I like its toughness over my previous Spyderco PM2 EDC knife which I carried for 3 years exclusively and broke the tip two times until it was sturdy enough to withstand "my" handling. Already cut up stuff and opened boxed and so far this knife is neither too big nor the blade not as sharp and "slicey" as some people make it out to be.
Tried everything to get the same detents on the edge as you but no luck so far. My knife doesn't have this issue.
I have the SR1 Lite in the tanto version and it doesn't have this issue, works perfectly. Maybe it was a problem with a specific lot
I haven't had those issues. I never hold the lock back down while closing the blade.
What about from closing it normally? I got edge damage from just closing normally as well.
@MNWoodland I never had that happen. I have two SR1 Lites. It's possible the spring is slightly forward or and should be pushed back further in its slot.
@@Jeremy-Two that may be the case.
@@MNWoodland Right.
just purchased SR1 tanto a few weeks ago, no issues. i did have to sand down scales under pocket clip and tweek tension on clip. it arrived impossible to clip over pants pocket. other than that, i love the beast. i purchased it for my edc work knife as a home re-modeler.
Could you update. What happened and did Coldsteel reimburse you or fixed the problem on later production? I am interested to buy a SR1 but won't do it before I know if they have fixed the problem (changing the tolerances would do I think). Also I want to thank you for sharing this valuable information. Thanks! :)
@@Riedenlow I reached out to gsm through email and they never got back to me. I never pursued it further.
@@MNWoodland Ok, thank you for letting me know. I think I will start looking for another solid tank folder... but it is not easy. Do you have any suggestions?
@@Riedenlow I don’t have any other tank folders, maybe the ad-10, but that might have the same issue with the triad lock. So if you want cold steel, the ad-15 has a different style lock. Would say possibly the Benchmade Adamas. Expensive, and at the same time, I personally don’t trust that lock either because I’ve had an omega spring break before.
@@MNWoodland, I have the AD-10 - two actually - and they do not have this issue.
I actually have a SR1 Lite Tanto and mine doesn't have any chips or problems, but that issue would totally mess mess with my ocd. I think that maybe because I always close my folders gently, but I sure do snap them open pretty loud when using my SR1 Lite. Well that sucks. Mine is an old model because a friend of mine gave it to me and I love this knife, it's scary sharp, I honed the holy hell out of it too! Hopefully CS addressed these issues.
I too have noticed this problem. But discovered the fix is to bend the spring out a little bit.
How did you do it?
Same. just bought the knife yesterday, closed it a fiew times lucky managed to make just a small dent on the blade ,opened it with the knife folded. THE BLADE WAS TOUCHING THE SPRING. well shit I thought.. I bent the spring a bit like you said. now the there s a small space between . oiled it and put it back together ,gave it the edge back. all good now. that seems to fix the problem. just use both hands when folding. thank you for the fix.
Easy solution just grab an angle grinder and grind the edge flat so it doesn't stick out as much.
I recently purchased the sr1 and the sr1 light, and they both came with the same type of chip in the edge. I own many other cold Steals with the Triad lock and this is never been an issue.
Thanks for sharing.
Only the sr1 has this issue? I will avoid them for now.
So did they actually fix the problem or is it strictly user error?
Hmmm… so the method of one hand snap closing the blade, when you still had the triad lock in the pressed position… Thanks for the info
I tested out a few different tri-ads after watching this. Most are impossible or very hard to close the knife that way. My SR1 lite does seem to be the easiest one to do this although I wasn't trying to test it hard. With my limited experiment, it seems to be something about that particular model. However, I never had an issue because I don't close the knife that way.
I have both drop point and tanto for SR1 Lite... no problems at all..... I have been using the tanto for 1 year... still no problems at all... perhaps you got a bad deal????
This is an easy fix..take apart and use sand paper where the edge contacts the lockbar..took me like 15 mins to take apart fix the problem and put back together
Should be something done at the factory level though :-/
@johnkeo358 while i agree 100% with u..its an easy fix on an otherwise great knife
@DjrWalsh i love this knife, especially with the snaggletooth mod. I stuck a cotton ball in there to buffer it but I might just have to bite the bullet and open it up and sand it. I just didn't want to void the warranty :-(
@johnkeo358 what warranty? Lol
Thanks just got the knife and after this video i tried closing my knife a little harder to see if it caused damaged, and yes it did now im gonna send it back
Unfortunate, but glad I could help.
The older one 62K1 has 8Cr13MoV steel in clam pack, the newer one 62K1Z has 8Cr14MoV in blister pack, same problem or fixed? It probably does not even matter as the Lite model is the only one that stays together after the Joe X destruction test. I'm getting several after watching it.
My biggest problem with the Tri-Ad lock is that I practically have to bruise my thumb to disengage the lock and close the blade. Some don't have this problem, but others do. My Mackinac Hunter model is so bad I rarely carry it.
all my cold steels (sr1, 4max scout, hold out 3, recon 1, talwar, tuff lite) have this issue.
it's just the nature of the beast with the triad-lock,
some of them become slightly smoother with use, some of them don't.
i got used to it but i understand when someone dislikes it, adding a little notch in their locking bar and chamfering the edges would probably help a lot.
Just bend the spring videos on it didn't use my air lite before adjusting it now its easy to press the lock back and you can fling it out with a little effort it sweet now
i'm really sorry that you have these issues, the edge hitting the inside of a knife when closed is an absolute no-go and would be a instant return for me.
my sr1 doesn't have this problem (just checked the edge) and i flick it shut all the time with the lock pressed down, so either they fixed it in the new versions or i was somehow lucky.
either way, it's a huge design flaw no matter what.
pls, can anyone tell me if the SR1 Lite tanto version has a hollow grind?
Thanks.
Nope. Flat.
I've got the same problem with the light, It is not the tri ad lock, I've got more gold steels with this lock, and with those no problem at all
So it seems to just be the design of the sr1 series.
Yep, I have a chip on my tanto lite right where yours is. Apparently, not all SR-1's have this problem. I know cause I have both lites, and both premiums. The tanto is the only one chipped but, it's also in my backpack 24/7 and my pack gets pretty banged up! Still though, this is a very interesting issue!
It happened to me with the SR1 Lite Tanto.. only one. All the other sr1 and lite are good ok
I have had a sr1 for a couple of years now and I have no chips on my blades.
i love sr1 lite th-cam.com/video/0Ya8tQMwUEU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=he3SEkaS7tlngR5s
This is ridiculous. Its caused by pressing the lock bar with the knife closed. If you remove the show side scale you will see where the blade is stopped by a pin, and that it is nowhere near the lock bar. You will also notice that when you depress the lock bar with the scale off, you can clearly see the contact with the blade.
I know that part, but there is another contact point without pressing the bar on both knives.
Then post another video with scale off so we can see what you are referring too.
@@indy5797 I’ll consider it, but it’s very clearly hitting the spring.
@@indy5797 and I believe that will void the warranty if I disassemble.
I have a sr1 lite tanto and have the same problem but mine have only one roll in the blade an its not the triad lock is the pin that stop the blade when close its the knife design have this problem I have more pocket knives from cold steel and no have this problem with others of my knives
i was watching this video then looked over at the edge on my SR1 lite tanto... yup have the rolled edge from hitting the spring. This knife is only 1 week old too. Serious bummer
dang
A back lock is meant to be a 2 handed closer I have a 4 max scout and I don’t have this issue
I am writing a new comment instead of editing my comment from a day ago because it's that important. I did NOT try to do one hand close, I learn that if I press the tri-ad lock deep enough, the blade is free to swing easily. I was just practicing one hand open and push it hard enough that the blade DROPPED, I got CUT 3 times in a day. Not bad, but see blood.
As for how to check whether the the lock make contact to the edge of the blade, it's easy. Close the blade all the way, hold the knife with one hand keeping the blade close, use the other hand to push the lock button ALL THE WAY DOWN. If you feel the blade is being pushed out, the lock is hitting the blade. This will cause damage if you let the blade drop close like in the video.
I have the Cold Steel Rajah III, the blade does not contact the lock, so it won't hurt the edge. People have to try the others to see.
Yeah backlock knives are not safe to close one handed.
Why would you not take apart the knife to show what's happening rather than drawing a picture?
Don't try do one hand close!! It's not meant to be, don't be fancy. Important thing is one hand deploy, why even worry about one hand closing. Stupid people insist in one hand close on those liner lock, they have to make the spring action so weak that it usually don't lock that well. I have to drill the detend hole out a little, bend out the liner lock to make it stronger to get it more secure. The idea applies here also, people try to be fancy, start complaining and they will make the spring weaker for easier control one hand closing. That will make the knife less safe.
The point is don't do fancy things, fast deploy is important, take your time to close it with 2 hands!!! There is always give and take, you make it too easy to do one hand, you weaken the design when it really matters. I do weight training and I am not weak. I have a hell of a time pushing the lock like you did with one hand releasing the blade. it dropped and almost cut my finger. Don't give people any more this kind of idea.
I can see that being a problem if you are trying to close it like it's the ad15 or a shark lock then yes you will have that happen, now when I'm opening and closing my sr1, 4 max, code 4, rajah frankly any tri ad lock I'm using 2 hands simply because I've cut myself with the 4max when closing and it would of took off my finger but only took off a piece of skin very scary ever since then always with 2 hands I'm not to proud I'm 10 fingered and want to stay that way lol
@@jonenglert5809 Same. I always use 2 hands closing lockbacks now.
Don't do that
The blade shape is the difference but no one should put pressure on a back lock on any knife, it’s a rule your father should have taught you as a child.
😂🎉
dude it is a 36$ knife the 130$ one yes that is a problem but use error, so it is not the problem don't say it a bad deal you messed up your blades.
1. Check pinned comment. The expensive one has the same problem, didn’t see it until after the video. So the one flaw is not user error.
2. Even if it was only the cheaper one, there are other knives comparable in price to $36 that don’t have the problem. A blade should never hit the hit the back and damage the edge. That’s a design flaw.
Io lo pagato gennaio febraio 2024 72 euro tantob75 clip point no 40 o 37 da 72 euro a 64 euro ser1 liteccosta dai 74 in su fi o a 70 72 💶 ma non è buono carrarmato e il poket busmano 50 euro ma è una bestia bomba ha mano a 🎉
why is an inferiror product ok? you must have too much money.
@@whatever3773
did you watch all of the video watch 4:00 to 4:21 he show how he did he it. and as I said 130$ knife is a little bit of a problem but the lite witch is 37$ is not a problem it is 8Cr13MoV witch is not the best steal. cold steel should fix sr1 because it is 130$ but you can strop it out on both with some good compound it will come right out. and I'm not rich just stating facts so I'm sticking with use error. and for less than 40$ for a sharpened pocket pry bar is a steel of a deal.