I was surprised at how much I love the $40 Cold Steel. I treat it like a rented car and it keeps performing. My Benchmades (huge fan of this brand) have been collecting dust since I got it.
I just bought the AD10 without knowing just how strong the locking system was. Thanks for the info. Now I really glad I bought it for come of my heavier duty knife chores!
Backlock test of blade Hq was a fail. Because the wire was pushing the Backlock down so it can't fail. The Bolt lock and ball bearing lock is super strong. And the difference in a backlock and cold steel Tri ad, you can see how deep the cold steel one is in the blade tang. And a backlock is just a tiny bit in the tang. I know it's strong enough for normal use. I wish the compression lock would be thicker, than it would be Way stronger. Anyway, nice video
Whats the point of a stronger lock? Nothing. Youre not gonna be putting that much force on a folding knife. Technically the handle would break before a compression lock failing.
The problem with the Spyderco Compression lock is the minimal liner material remaining around the stop pin where the compression lock "leaf" or segment is cut out. Imo shock and torsion resistance is much more important than outright strength in folding knives. The Spyderco Ball Bearing lock and Compression lock, Benchmade Axis lock and of course, Cold Steel Triad lock are much more shock and torsion resistant than liner and frame locks. All well made locking knives regardless of style of lock are plenty strong enough to do tasks a folding knife is intended for however.
When you are properly using a knife, when, exactly are you applying torsion to a knife? That's like saying 'I don't like it because when you use it for a hammer the scales crack so its a bad design'. Right tool for the right job. Nuff said.
@@lenzielenski3276 - I don't use my knives as hammers but I do occasionally pry or drill with them, both situations where torsional rigidity is necessary.
I was not surprised seeing Cold Steel in this video. The triad lock is indeed impressive. They are coming with a new locking system as well - the Atlas lock.
Definatly agree with everything said in this vid. Do you need that much strength in average day to day cutting or EDC not really, but when push comes to shove I know that in any situation I'd rather have a knife that I know isn't going to fail no matter what I throw at it. That's why I carry multiple knives though usually a tank like the 4Max Or SR1 and a slicer like a Civivi Riffle. Best of both worlds that way. I have also put the 4Max Scout through its paces with chopping, batoning, prying, and even some cutting lol. I would trust it's performance over some fixed blades (like a stick or rat tail tang), but nothing beats having a full tang fixed blade that is made for outdoors. Thanks for the great vid Jerad and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable
The Tri-Ad lock is my favorite lock. Not just for the strength alone. Also for the best detent, and the fact that you are never going to accidentally press any unlocking button. I wish Cold Steel would make more models or variants with the Tri-Ad. I would buy them. For example, a Voyager with no difference from current Voyagers except a thinner scale in G10. And a knife just like the 4Max Scout except with 120 thou blade stock instead of 190 thou. I would buy those knives in a heartbeat. I would buy several of each in different scale colors.
After seeing Cold Steel test a Sebenza and seeing it fail with just 45 pounds, I think frame locks that are made from titanium are some of the weakest locks. When the Sebenza failed, it put an S curve in the cut out relief of the lock bar. A lock is only as strong as its weakest point.
You can also find some that fail in ward and cease the knife, and I've seen titanium frames that are very strong, and many that are weak, the geometry matter most with liners and frames, and of course the weak points as you said
@@thrashingjustin most buttoning doesn't have a hand wrapped around it, of course having your hand absolutely ads strength, but these are the strongest regardless
Great job Jarrod on this video.Makes it very clear with your pics.and, drawings.Keep up the great work. Does anyone have trouble with lock stick on Triad lock? T.C. all
Even the back-lock on a Byrd feels more solid than most liner locks. They are solid but tend to be on old school cheaper knives. I like the shark lock. I’m just waiting a year or two for the diehards to say if they fail easy or not. That new Flytanium in MagnaCut looks amazing for a first MagnaCut blade.
I'm going to be in the minority here so let the hate begin. I don't really care about "strongest lock" as its next to irrelevant. If you are pressing down to cut something as in using a knife correctly, for its intended purpose, even the most minimal or NO LOCK AT ALL is sufficient (as millions of slip joint users can tell you). I've carried a knife daily for over 50 years, of all kinds, and have never, ever, had ANY lock fail or blade close unintentionally (slippies included)...you just have to use a knife as, well, a knife. BTW, as good as the BladeHQ tests were, they are still not "fair" in that, amongst other things. the distance from the pivot to the point where pressure was applied varied depending on the knife. Since the pivot is, in essence, acting as a fulcrum even a quarter of an inch difference actually makes a huge mechanical difference to the lock. I'll close by saying its more likely the frame/pivot/handle will fail before most locks. How can I be sure? Easy, if a lock fails and someone gets hurt you can almost be assured there would have been a lawsuit and, as such, would have been brought to the public's interest. Cheers
Thanks for the vids! How is it, do you think, that all this 'lock' discussion seems to only focus on the vertical plane? Could it be because it lets us play with erection producing numbers? Big pounds? Why not take this G10 Espada xl and clamp it up on the horizontal plane? Hang some weights on the tip end (or handle end) and see what the 'weakest link' in the chain will be. Because of it, the knife might never get to play in the stratospheric regions the vertical tests indicate available. "No feature is an island!" - Gilligan
Awesome vid, but I hate when people use this as a major metric for purchase. For example, I had someone say my elementum, and all other liner locks, are too weak for him to ever buy. I've never seriously damaged a lock on any knife more that 25 bucks.
Also of note - people may not know Demko as a common name on the knife adjacent community or even entheuiest realm. The guy had 2 of 3 of the absolute bomb proof locking systems known to date. That’s saying something.People think of Laconico, Perdue, Osborne hinderer, winkler. Frickin Demko man…Legend
How strong is “strong enough?” I’ve been (hard) using the Al Mar SERE2000 nearly two decades. I’m accustomed to opening with my thumb, bumping a liner or frame lock to close. Searching for a replacement (because Al Mar has gone Chinese and this knife WILL wear out), I picked up an Off Grid Rhino and a Cold Steel SR1 Lite. I can adjust to the Rhino’s flipper and it feels “normal” to close. The SR1 Lite is a total beast (and I wanted that because I use ‘em hard), but a bit too bulky in pocket, and I just can’t get used to pushing hard in the middle of the back to close. The SERE2000 has plenty of lock strength to use the spine on a ferro rod. Does anyone NEED that Triad lock? (Still seeking a design that pleases me as much as the SERE2000.) BTW in my fire/rescue days, I bought one of the first yellow plastic handled Spyderco Rescue (Mariner in plastic instead of steel) knives. That back lock did need improvement. I don’t think that model lasted long.
Props for the SERE 2000. I had one too around 15 years ago. Loved, loved the look and feel of the design but the lock couldn't pass the spine whack test (not necessary for functionality I know, but is for my peace of mind). Also, there is a cut out right at the juncture where the lock bar joins the frame, making the connection just 2 thin pieces of metal (WTF). A fatal and unnecessary flaw IMHO. I loved that knife but ended up letting it go and getting a BM 520 Presidio as it had a similar aesthetic but also a mmmuuuccchhh stronger lock. No spine whack failure with the axis lock... would buy another SERE in a second if the lock was more stable.
Spyderco lock-back is simply bad. Even brand new knives have rock lock. The lever is hanging on the edge of the noch. Normal wear and tear rounds the edge of the noch and makes lock unreliable. It works more like slipjoin on some well used knives.
Your video is about the "strongest locking folding pocket knives ever" .... and yet you DO NOT have a Barry Wood knife. They have 1/4" pivot or hinge pins and when they're in the "open" position, Wood knives are basically fixed blade knives. Maybe you've never had one. (?) Been collecting them since the 60s and have had every model, made of every material Barry ever used.
Because they are not the strongest, and they are known to break very easily. There's a reason you don't see a hundred videos online of people buttoning with them
I was surprised at how much I love the $40 Cold Steel. I treat it like a rented car and it keeps performing. My Benchmades (huge fan of this brand) have been collecting dust since I got it.
Great video. Really like the cutaway views of the locks. Gives me a much better understanding of how they work and the strength of each.
simple answer is the Tri-Lock system from Cold steel.. best and strongest ive felt/seen
Great review Jerad
I just bought the AD10 without knowing just how strong the locking system was. Thanks for the info. Now I really glad I bought it for come of my heavier duty knife chores!
The 4-max is the only folder that has absolutely zero blade play in any direction no matter how hard you try. It's amazing.
Great overview Jared. Much appreciated. Love the informational videos like these and the Fast 5. You got it bruh. God bless you and yours.
I love all kinds of knives but i have always been a little partial towars spyderco and cold steel just love their knives more than others.
Love axis type locks. Extremely strong while being extremely easy to manipulate. Best balance for edc imo.
same here, the omega springs breaking once in a while is so overblown. It's easy to make the springs and install.
omega springs...so weak
Makes me love my AD20.5 even more knowing it made the elite list.
Thanks for sharing
Backlock test of blade Hq was a fail. Because the wire was pushing the Backlock down so it can't fail. The Bolt lock and ball bearing lock is super strong. And the difference in a backlock and cold steel Tri ad, you can see how deep the cold steel one is in the blade tang. And a backlock is just a tiny bit in the tang. I know it's strong enough for normal use. I wish the compression lock would be thicker, than it would be Way stronger. Anyway, nice video
Whats the point of a stronger lock? Nothing. Youre not gonna be putting that much force on a folding knife. Technically the handle would break before a compression lock failing.
@@thrashingjustin that's not true! It just needs a impact and the compression lock fails! Your comments doesn't make any sense!
What do you personally think are the couple of strongest locking mechanisms?
That's why I carry a CS RECON 1. Thanks Jared..🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
The problem with the Spyderco Compression lock is the minimal liner material remaining around the stop pin where the compression lock "leaf" or segment is cut out.
Imo shock and torsion resistance is much more important than outright strength in folding knives. The Spyderco Ball Bearing lock and Compression lock, Benchmade Axis lock and of course, Cold Steel Triad lock are much more shock and torsion resistant than liner and frame locks.
All well made locking knives regardless of style of lock are plenty strong enough to do tasks a folding knife is intended for however.
When you are properly using a knife, when, exactly are you applying torsion to a knife? That's like saying 'I don't like it because when you use it for a hammer the scales crack so its a bad design'. Right tool for the right job. Nuff said.
@@lenzielenski3276 - I don't use my knives as hammers but I do occasionally pry or drill with them, both situations where torsional rigidity is necessary.
Very professional n informative.
High technical detail.
🇺🇲✅🇦🇺👍🏻
I was not surprised seeing Cold Steel in this video. The triad lock is indeed impressive. They are coming with a new locking system as well - the Atlas lock.
Really! I'd like to see that
Well done, I love the diagrams.
Definatly agree with everything said in this vid. Do you need that much strength in average day to day cutting or EDC not really, but when push comes to shove I know that in any situation I'd rather have a knife that I know isn't going to fail no matter what I throw at it. That's why I carry multiple knives though usually a tank like the 4Max Or SR1 and a slicer like a Civivi Riffle. Best of both worlds that way. I have also put the 4Max Scout through its paces with chopping, batoning, prying, and even some cutting lol. I would trust it's performance over some fixed blades (like a stick or rat tail tang), but nothing beats having a full tang fixed blade that is made for outdoors. Thanks for the great vid Jerad and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable
I like to carry two, a Cold Steel and a Benchmade. Refreshing to see I am not alone, my none knife friends don't get it.
The Tri-Ad lock is my favorite lock. Not just for the strength alone. Also for the best detent, and the fact that you are never going to accidentally press any unlocking button. I wish Cold Steel would make more models or variants with the Tri-Ad. I would buy them. For example, a Voyager with no difference from current Voyagers except a thinner scale in G10. And a knife just like the 4Max Scout except with 120 thou blade stock instead of 190 thou. I would buy those knives in a heartbeat. I would buy several of each in different scale colors.
Great video Jerad.
Man, I just got my Manix 2 this week. Wow. That thing is solid!
Great knives
Picked up a Manix 2 about a month ago. First Spyderco since the early 90's. Floored by the quality of that knife. I'm hooked on Spyderco now.
Appreciate all of the teaching and knowledge. Buying my next knife (Smock) through one of your links. Trust your input. Appreciate you. 👊🏼.
Thanks, jerad.
Demko is the best.! Excellent folder for outback & bushcraft uses. Cowabunga mate.
I need to pick up an ad10. Looks like a real good edc for construction.
The CRKT double locking system is great. Why was it not mentioned ???
Because the actual knives are junk.
EXCELLENT PRESENTATION
After seeing Cold Steel test a Sebenza and seeing it fail with just 45 pounds, I think frame locks that are made from titanium are some of the weakest locks. When the Sebenza failed, it put an S curve in the cut out relief of the lock bar. A lock is only as strong as its weakest point.
You can also find some that fail in ward and cease the knife, and I've seen titanium frames that are very strong, and many that are weak, the geometry matter most with liners and frames, and of course the weak points as you said
Those test are bs. A framelock is great because your grip acts as reinforcement. Those tests didnt have any grip
@@thrashingjustin most buttoning doesn't have a hand wrapped around it, of course having your hand absolutely ads strength, but these are the strongest regardless
The Proponent with pin is FAIL SAFE. Like the shuttle.
@@thrashingjustin
I know what you are saying but I don't think a grip on the knife would have prevented an S curve from occurring in the cut out.
Would like to see a comparison with the deadbolt lock, it seems pretty strong.
There's a video with the dead bolt being tested next to the tri ad, and it was very strong but the tri ad won
I would like to see the deadbolt on a good knife 😀
Excellent vid as always, Neeves! Just wondering how CS' new "ATLAS" Lock would fare in this comparison. Thanks!
Show muito bom 👏👏👏👏
Great job Jarrod on this video.Makes it very clear with
your pics.and, drawings.Keep up
the great work.
Does anyone have trouble with
lock stick on Triad lock?
T.C. all
A zippoknives backlock failed giving me 4 or 5 stitches in my little finger. This video just pushes me more towards fixed blade edc.
How so you feel about button locks
Even the back-lock on a Byrd feels more solid than most liner locks. They are solid but tend to be on old school cheaper knives.
I like the shark lock. I’m just waiting a year or two for the diehards to say if they fail easy or not. That new Flytanium in MagnaCut looks amazing for a first MagnaCut blade.
I'm going to be in the minority here so let the hate begin. I don't really care about "strongest lock" as its next to irrelevant. If you are pressing down to cut something as in using a knife correctly, for its intended purpose, even the most minimal or NO LOCK AT ALL is sufficient (as millions of slip joint users can tell you). I've carried a knife daily for over 50 years, of all kinds, and have never, ever, had ANY lock fail or blade close unintentionally (slippies included)...you just have to use a knife as, well, a knife.
BTW, as good as the BladeHQ tests were, they are still not "fair" in that, amongst other things. the distance from the pivot to the point where pressure was applied varied depending on the knife. Since the pivot is, in essence, acting as a fulcrum even a quarter of an inch difference actually makes a huge mechanical difference to the lock. I'll close by saying its more likely the frame/pivot/handle will fail before most locks. How can I be sure? Easy, if a lock fails and someone gets hurt you can almost be assured there would have been a lawsuit and, as such, would have been brought to the public's interest. Cheers
Great video man.
But what are the chances this tri-ad lock breaking inwards and cutting your own fingers off while stabbing hard
Thanks for the vids!
How is it, do you think, that all this 'lock' discussion seems to only focus on the vertical plane? Could it be because it lets us play with erection producing numbers? Big pounds?
Why not take this G10 Espada xl and clamp it up on the horizontal plane?
Hang some weights on the tip end (or handle end) and see what the 'weakest link' in the chain will be. Because of it, the knife might never get to play in the stratospheric regions the vertical tests indicate available.
"No feature is an island!" - Gilligan
I like that artisan ow yeah and this channel ❤👍🏻
👊
I would be thankful If I have that 4MAX or AD10 in my hand❤😁
Whatever happened to the double locking system CRKT used?
Can any one tell the name of the knife with the gold tone handle
Good stuff bro!
This is the way
Indeed, the 4max is the way to go here.
Oh my gosh that ad20.5
Cold Steel tri-ad lock
I saw a cool video torture testing the Triad. They kept adding more and more weight til 800lbs. Then he ran out of weight.
My demko is still going strong🔪👍👌
Awesome vid, but I hate when people use this as a major metric for purchase. For example, I had someone say my elementum, and all other liner locks, are too weak for him to ever buy. I've never seriously damaged a lock on any knife more that 25 bucks.
I agree totally brotha!
What was the demko with the shark lock? I dont think you included it in the list in the description
Wonder how strong the 20.5 sharklock is
Supposedly similar strength to the tri ad, I think the 20.5 is 250lbs psi
My Recon 1 is robust but comes with fragile hollow grind although its s35vn which is pretty tough.
Gotta respect "cold steel"
Them are some beefy knives! Did Demko invent the scorpion lock? Thanks bro✌&💛
Yes he did, he's responsible for most of the very strong locks
Also of note - people may not know Demko as a common name on the knife adjacent community or even entheuiest realm. The guy had 2 of 3 of the absolute bomb proof locking systems known to date. That’s saying something.People think of Laconico, Perdue, Osborne hinderer, winkler. Frickin Demko man…Legend
How strong is “strong enough?” I’ve been (hard) using the Al Mar SERE2000 nearly two decades. I’m accustomed to opening with my thumb, bumping a liner or frame lock to close. Searching for a replacement (because Al Mar has gone Chinese and this knife WILL wear out), I picked up an Off Grid Rhino and a Cold Steel SR1 Lite. I can adjust to the Rhino’s flipper and it feels “normal” to close. The SR1 Lite is a total beast (and I wanted that because I use ‘em hard), but a bit too bulky in pocket, and I just can’t get used to pushing hard in the middle of the back to close. The SERE2000 has plenty of lock strength to use the spine on a ferro rod. Does anyone NEED that Triad lock? (Still seeking a design that pleases me as much as the SERE2000.) BTW in my fire/rescue days, I bought one of the first yellow plastic handled Spyderco Rescue (Mariner in plastic instead of steel) knives. That back lock did need improvement. I don’t think that model lasted long.
Props for the SERE 2000. I had one too around 15 years ago. Loved, loved the look and feel of the design but the lock couldn't pass the spine whack test (not necessary for functionality I know, but is for my peace of mind). Also, there is a cut out right at the juncture where the lock bar joins the frame, making the connection just 2 thin pieces of metal (WTF). A fatal and unnecessary flaw IMHO. I loved that knife but ended up letting it go and getting a BM 520 Presidio as it had a similar aesthetic but also a mmmuuuccchhh stronger lock. No spine whack failure with the axis lock... would buy another SERE in a second if the lock was more stable.
@@Horusfour thanks, interesting alternative. We are fortunate to have so many choices these days.
@neevesknives wait till you see Demko's new lock will be on the new AD-10 m
The Buck took the max on Blade HQ
Forbidden in Germony
When I looked at the thumbnail I thought these were weird looking shoes lol!
"strongest" Cool. ...I'd like to see a well built balisong (butterfly knife) tested.
If you spine whack the hell out of a Manix it will eventually fail. There is a vid of someone doing just that.
Yeah some definitely will, some also don't. I've done many and I've has some new ones fail since the lock hasn't broken it
Nothing new, but enjoyable evening relaxation with knives
Spyderco lock-back is simply bad.
Even brand new knives have rock lock. The lever is hanging on the edge of the noch. Normal wear and tear rounds the edge of the noch and makes lock unreliable.
It works more like slipjoin on some well used knives.
Largely opinion. No scientific testing.
Your opinion doesn't persuade me. I need evidence, scientific testing, etc.
I should have watched the whole video before commenting but I didn't see a Triad in the bunch. Sorry Never mind😂
Your video is about the "strongest locking folding pocket knives ever" .... and yet you DO NOT have a Barry Wood knife. They have 1/4" pivot or hinge pins and when they're in the "open" position, Wood knives are basically fixed blade knives. Maybe you've never had one. (?) Been collecting them since the 60s and have had every model, made of every material Barry ever used.
Why do you always scream like a pregnant shepherd at the beginning of the video?!
There is not any strong knife then Knife with Tri-Ad Lock!
Balisong.
First. Now gimme the knife
How can you not mention locking frame locks?
They have existed rarely in high end knives but are now available cheap from manufacturers like Ruike.
Because they are not the strongest, and they are known to break very easily. There's a reason you don't see a hundred videos online of people buttoning with them
Cold Steel Triad Lock
Tested to 800lbs.