I have a 2018 Camry V6 (the current generation) and I live in a mostly hot climate all year round. The dealer recommended me to use 5w30 and if I wanted to go for 10w40 (which they used on my car when I didn’t know better lol) there wouldn’t be a problem. Toyota engines can accept wider range of oil viscosity. I was shocked when I found out that US spec Toyota models use 0w20 oil. I have been using 5w30 full synthetic and for years and no problems whatsoever. 0w20 is too thin for that engine in my opinion.
That 0w20 is from our corrupt government wanting .1 more mpg. Some folks say it's because the tolerances are tighter on new cars, but the same car is using 20w50 in Austrailia. And if you freeze 0w20, it flows like SAE90, destroying to tighter tolerances myth.
For sure, 20 weight is not fit for a hot climate. I drive between Orlando and Miami all year round, no way I would ever put a 0w-20 in my Toyota. As usual what works in some nerds lab does not hold up in the real world. I ran my V-8 Chevy in Houston TX on 10w-40, got over 189K miles and finally dumped it because too many other things went bad, the engine was still running fine.
After 50 years of doing it myself, I finally seriously researched motor oil. I came to the shocking realization that I could have used nothing but 10W-30 in every vehicle I have ever owned from the early 70s till today. In several of them, the recommended viscosity was 5W-30. However, in the fine print it always said you could use 10W-30 if the temperature never went below 0 Fahrenheit. So there.
@@jason200912 I have never owned a vehicle where the recommended oil was 5W-20 or 0W-20. If it was the recommendation, I would use it. With the ones where 5W-30 was recommended, the fine print said you could use 10W-30 if the temperature did not go below zero F. I could have used nothing but 10W-30 in every vehicle I ever owned with a cast iron American engine. The point is, I could have used one oil all my life, never debated, discussed or researched the topic and been no worse off. But I like to research. Almost anything.
@@anonymike8280what's the purpose of oil logistics for you though because the oil additives degrades overtime and you should only buy it when you're ready to do the oil change
3 หลายเดือนก่อน +5
2016 Kia Rio. Says 5W-20 on oil filler cap. Manual says you can also use 5W-30, or if it never goes below zero 10W-30.
Thanks for the great video. One thing to keep in mind, fuel dilution changes the viscosity requirement for pedestrian gas cars too. We can choose an oil that provides adequate MOFT under 100% of normal operating situations, but when driving around town, fuel can accumulate in the oil. Follow this up by a blast down the road at high speed, some towing, or a track day without enough time to evaporate the fuel, and bearing failure can be the result. The Audi supercharged V6 is well known for this.
There is more than fuel dilution at work here. A 5W 30 oil is a 5 weight oil.cold with viscosity improvers to make it act like a 30 weight oil when it is hot. Operating in the tight clearances of a running engine a couple of other things that happen beyond fuel dilution are shear back whereby those viscosity improvers get broken. Think of them kind of like tiny bits of thread that get torn in half, so now your hot oil behaves more like a 25 or 20 when hot. Another thing that happens is boil off. Petroleum is a compendium of molecules with different boiling points. When you get the oil well warmed up the light ends vapourize and get carried out in the PCV system. Now your 5 oil becomes 8 or 10 when cold. Synthetic oils do not have the range of molecules petroleum oils do and can be engineered for qualities the designers want. Thus they do not have the same light end boiloff or the shearback. Synthetics generally have premium additive packages in them that prevent shear better. Like the old Fram filters ad, pay me now or pay me later. You generally get what you pay for, so if you pay for cheap shit, you get cheap shit.
@@daledavies2334 speaking of PCV , I wish people would change their friggin pcv valves! Some cars should have them changed as early as 30,000 miles. Then on another topic, I also wish folks would do their transmission fluid at regular intervals. Today's small DI turbo engines with a CVT is so easy to do, you should really be doing it atleast once a year. Or at a minimum of every 30,000 miles.
@@daledavies2334 THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU! So many people nowadays think that a multi-vis oil is the hot number - ie 5W 30 is the same thing as SAE 30 - and will argue and even want to fight you over that. I was beginning to think I was the only one still alive who knows what Multi-grade oil is.
@@vermontvermont9292 They insist on waiting for the trans to start slipping, and by then it is often too late. The damage has been done, and the death spiral has started.
For some odd reason... I was wishing mr T could have popped into this video just to say "jibber-jabber" just one time. But there are a few nuggets worth our time.
I use what my car manufacturer recommends in the winter and put in a slightly thicker oil in the summer. Most of all, I pay attention to the night time temps. I want the thinner oil in there for cold nights. When it never gets below freezing at night, only then will I put in my summer oil. You want the oil flowing freely at start up...always.
@jamesbosworth4191 back in the day, my Dad was having trouble starting his 6.2 diesel ⛽️ on colder days (n.w.corner of Oregon) I switched from his straight 30 to a multi viscosity... problem solved
Working in a large fleet operation, 200 units, cars, SUVs, trucks from class 3 to class 8, I observed 1st hand the effects of 0- 5, 5-20 Each vehicle that the manufacturer recommends super light weight oils had knocks, rattles, changing to 10-30 stopped it all. Our fleet was made up of GM, Dodge, Ford, gas, and diesel engine cars and trucks in Colorado. Managing a fleet you get see the effects even before the manufacturer does.
@@jamesbosworth4191 only for American junk. I had a 2012 Camry that I put 217,000 miles on using 0W 20 oil. Never burned oil between 10,000 mile oil changes and no knock or engine problems of any sort whatsoever.
@@markkauffman6184They didn't advertise 10,000 mile oil change intervals in 2012. Also, lots of people have told me in a bragging way that they hardly every change their oil, yet their engines is "perfect". Well, it does start, and it does move the vehicle forward, but perfect??? Pounding like a blacksmith making horseshoes is hardly "perfect".
@@jamesbosworth4191 actually in the owners manual it did say you could go 10,000 miles under normal driving conditions. I did a lot of highway driving and so it fell into that normal driving conditions. My engine did not burn any oil and when I looked inside valve cover, there was zero varnish, all you saw was gray metal. The only reason I sold it was it was starting to rust - and in the rust belt that is the kiss of death.
Excellent video! I’ve never seen a chart that gives you a baseline for where to start with bearing clearances. I want to build a road race 454 LS7, and now I can have an intelligent talk with my engine builder. I’d like to run 0W-40 on the road course at an oil temperature greater than 212°F and still have adequate oil pressure at 7000 RPM. Hopefully going with the gas-ported, gapless 1mm, 1mm, 2mm ring package! Thanks for educating the track rats and gearheads out there!
@DimosTs192 dodge specificies a 0w40 for all their scat packs aka 6.4l Hemi, so at least at start up I cant imagine they would spec an oil leading to wear under warranty...in fact other oils will void it.... I run a 5w50 in a 7600rpm LS7 build get about 75psi hot at shift.... The gen 3 boosted coyote calls for 5w50 it would see 90psi at 8000rpm shifts well 7850
Great video. Interesting how important the 40c viscosity is. In many climates it’s the viscosity change of the oil from say 10c or 20c to 100c that is so relevant.
I switched my '16 Corolla to 5w30 from 0w20 at 200K miles. Now, I don't have to add a quart to quart and a half every 5K miles, my car is quieter, and the efficiency is the same for me. Owner's manuals in other countries list MULTIPLE grades for the exact same engines. This "0w20 only" nonsense is only a sop to the EPA/Feds, and I love that people refuse to accept this as per their programming.
Be sure to use a PEA (techron is one) fuel additive to keep those piston rings clean. Biggest prob with those low tension rings is fuel dilution of oil after the rings get sludge/carbon on them. Fuel mixed with your oil takes that viscosity way down. Big time wear. EPA is screwing Americans - full corruption.
Good video. One has to remember that with miles come wear, the clearances will get bigger thus less resistance for the oil. With higher milage you will have too use a thicker oil.
For the new wrx's, Subaru recommends 5W-30 in the Canadian owner's manual and 0w 20 in the US owner's manual. It has to do with EPA requirements in the usa.
I guess this is the problem. What are you optimising for? If it is only fuel economy, you are going to use thinner oils with some degradation of durability to maximise fuel economy. If the standards talked about the total energy required to build a car, then maybe you might prioritise durability a little higher.
@@bakemonking Yep. I checked the known bearing clearances for my BRZ and 0W-20 was correct for most people, except high temperature racing. However using the charts, a turbocharged engine with the same bearing clearances should be running 5W-30 or 10W-30. Definitely for fuel economy or US CAFE.
Love your work mr Speed Jr . As you chaps say” awsum “. Together with all these other boffins you introduce , this is just the best fun. Thank you to Stapleton 42 for helping me finds you guys. Keep it gannin lads✌
One additional point, when using piston squirters, distributor gear squirters or in engines that have other forms or devices or wear that can result in oil pressure/flow escapes, (leaking timing chain tensioners or slightly worn oil pump are a good example on an older engine) The use of ultra low viscosity oil can result in zero flow to distant components. It's not that the parts need more viscosity, it's that the system as designed or operated can't provide adequate flow, often during very low RPM conditions. This is why we sometimes see the farthest cam bearing cap wiped-out first. And why a move to a more viscous oil is a viable solution.
I keep looking through these hoping to see Lake Speed Sr show up. I miss the glory days of NASCAR. I run 5/30 in my wife's Chrysler and 0/20 in my Alfa, just as the manufacturer recommends. No problems and we run them long and hard on trips (300+ miles between stops @80mph).
@@lonniebeal6032 Freezing or boiling. There's no other recommendation. It seems to work fine. The engine temps never go above 192 and it doesn't use oil...about 1 qt every 10K miles.
Ford recommends 5w-20 for my Coyote 5.0 f150. But one thing I noticed is that most 5w-20 evaporative characteristics is what is giving the 5.0 a reputation for high oil consumption. By simply going to 5w-30 I noticed my Oil Catch can had less oil in it and my oil level was better between oil changes. OE recommendations isn’t always the best.
Yeah, I switched to 5w-30 at around 70k miles. I was researching and came to the conclusion 5w-30 was best for my vehicle. I had no idea that there were quite a few F-150 owners who did the same, as I wasn’t specifically searching based on the F-150, just location and the pros and cons of 5w-20 vs 5w-30. It started with my diff fluid/gear oil. Went with a slightly thicker viscosity for better protection. Sure, MPGs takes a slight hit, but I don’t think the majority of us got a truck for it’s spectacular MPGs. It was even recommended by most Ford YT mechanics to go with a thicker gear oil in the diff vs what Ford recommends.
Many years ago I ran two different oils to test on a very hobby level, but there was almost 40 degrees *C oil temperature difference, one was Semi-Synthetic maybe 15-40 or 10-40, the other was Full Synthetic maybe 5-30. It is a long time ago, but I was impressed at the difference, it was also two different brands, so many changes. But one of them was around 95*C and the other around 135*C at full warm somewhat "hard driving" on the street, not on track. What oil was best for the motor I would guess the one that kept the heat the lowest. As long as the pistons also were cooler, and not just the oil.. Hmm.. I guess above 100*C would be nice for some water evaporation though. But what actually made me comment here, was the Cylinder head, just a random Olds head on the table.
@@BoredGeese In my experience fully synthethic runs cooler if you check the oil temp gauge, if it is because that oil transport more heat away from the other materials, bearings, pistons etc. or absorbs less heat than mineral oil I do not know, I only get more questions thinking about it than answers. But if the synthethic has less wear than mineral oil, I guess part of the lower temperature is because there is less friction, less wear and less temperature because of that. But maybe it is cooler because it is more effective at transfering more heat away instead? And is that because of the more uniform size of the synthetic oil molecules or because of more/better additives? I do not know. But too hot oil is not good atleast, but then, what is too hot oil? What is the limit?
Truly my dream job. U should do some testinging on shaeffers and its moly addative. I’m sure u kno about it but videos would be cool showing how and why it works. As far as incredible luberication and capability’s. Iv seen night and day diff in temps, line pressure, mileage, breakdown etc, hope to see some vids
The Ow has more additives that break down over time than the 5w or 10w. The lower the range, the less additives. I was using Castrol Edge 5w40 which was oem for my turbo car. Now I'm doing Castrol Edge 0w40 which had a higher lube rating than the 5w40 but more additives which break down. The 0 should pump faster on start up which prevents wear. The engine seems happy with either and I'm in the Pacific Northwest so we don't have extreme hot or cold weather. I'll just use whichever is cheaper or available..lol I do 10k full synthetic oil changes and filter. 72k and runs like new. Mazda mpv V6 ran Mobil 1 5w30 at 10k oil changes and ran like new for 150k miles and sold car. Cheers
I have a 2013 Ford Edge 3.5 cyclone engine at the current time I'm running 5W-20 Mobil 1 AF synthetic, I know that was recommended strictly for CAFE here in the US, because in other countries, they recommend 5W-30. I know that engine is not hard on oil, I have a 120000 on it right now, I've already had the water pump replaced, along with the timing chain, tensioners, guides and oil pump. Would you recommend going to a 5W-30? Stay with this oil? Thank you for your help
I don’t know if that is going to help you but one my friends at my previous work used to have a Mazda CX9 with the same engine as your Ford Edge. He clocked at over 400 thousand kilometres (250k miles plus) using 5w20 oil and didn’t have any issues engine wise. Aside from charging the water pump obviously.
Most people don't understand multi weight oils or viscosity; this subject is best explained by SAE ( society of automotive engineers )!!! I have been using Rotella or Delvac 15W40 in everything I own since the 70s. Which included a3.5hp Briggs & Stratton push mower that lasted 25 years!?!?!? Today I use Rotella 5W40 synthetic in everything. I said all this as a retired CAT&CUMMINGS diesel mechanic.
@@dad3562 that's a good, thick for grade oil. It's on the heavy end of the 30wt range. If we used half weight ratings, it would be a 35 weight oil all day. 👍
I have a (what I think) is a great question. I collect many Japanese imports. My cars from Japan, state to use 5w40/10w40. My US SPEC Honda/Acura that uses the same identical B18C VTEC engine, states to use the factory 5w30/10w30. The ONLY difference in the two is that the Japanese spec revs a bit higher because of the ECU. I always wondered why the difference. A better similarity is a Japanese spec S2000 to a US S2000. Japan states in the owners manual 5/40-10w40, in the US 10w30. Do you know why? Emissions BS? Marketing? I hate to question or argue with a true Honda engineer, but I feel you would know! Love the channel
We use straight 30 wt, in our hot rod engines, because we run .003 thou. On the mains, and .002 thou. On the rods. Lighter oil might allow the crank to hammer the bearings at 7 to 8,000 rpm
I have been using synthetic oil only in race engines for near 30 years. Road race or dirt oval engines. Have normally used 25/50. Chev road race engine did aprox 2200 race miles and the bearings were basically brand new. Good enough to reuse. Unfortunatly the crank was cracked! I did use 15/40 also, seemed no different. This on a drysumped SBC road race engine with a decent oil cooler running to 7500. Oil temp usually around 220-230degF Current project is a 5 litre Ford to 340ci. Will be run to 7500 also. The windsor oil pump drive is too small@ 5/16,, weak and I am stuck with a [good] wet sump. I feel 10/40 may be the go. Crank will be aprox 2 thou right along.
Even amsoil in a way suggests to go one grade higher or lower. We have a choice to go one grade higher or lower according to ambient temperature and driving conditions
In my personal experience, you technically should not replace 0W-20 with 5W-30. An engine with high mileage required 0W-20 and it runs smoothly and quietly; but once switched to 5W-30, it run less smooth and a bit louder. So with this experiment, I would just stick with recommended oil whether it is 0W-8, 0W-16, 0W-20, 5W-30, or 10W-30 etc; and perform the oil change every 6-9 mo or 5k-7k miles.
Lake, could you do a video talking about oil temperature? I read that we want it to boil out any water in the oil, but is there a reason why we want it to be hot? Is 150 as good as 180 or 210?
I’m 5 min into the video, heard nothing but viscosity, viscosity, and how important it is. What is the point? What do you suggest people do rather than following manufacturer’s recommendation?
the lower the W number, the better (within reasonable cost, comparatively). The other number... well... whatever your ambient upper temperatures tend to be. For most people, 5w-30 is fine in most location. Otherwise 5w-40 is fine. Very very rarely would anyone need *W-50 or 60. These are either for highly stressed performance cars, high mileage engines, or very hot ambient temps.
I had read a research article which in short words stated that engine oil viscosity is based upon clearance of rod bearings. We all know rod bearings are the most critical parts of an engine to have maximum wear
When I added a supercharger to my sbc, I changed from 10w-30 to 0w-40. It's running over triple the stock hp so the oil is worked much harder and sees more heat.
@@TotalSeal I've heard others recommend to stick with factory viscosity. No thanks! I wanted better cold flow for instant oil pressure and flow on cold starts.. while maintaining better protection when I step on the throttle. I recently read that the 650hp LT4 is factory filled with the same multi-grade viscosity.
@@EricErnst Not withstanding the fact that a 0w40 is already almost a 30 from the container and get to a low 30 after a few hours of operation So, you still giving a 30 most of the time, anyways
Film strength matters too. The 0w40 requires more viscosity modifiers than a 10w30, assuming all else is equal. More viscosity modifiers (big numerical spread) often result in less shear resistance. The big numerical spread can look like everyone is happy, but might not be as protective as numbers closer together (less modifiers). 10w30 won't shear to less than 10. 0w40 can shear down to 0.
I drive a car with a low mileage 1 litre gdi turbo motor. I live in a a tropical country with temperatures around 80 f. My manual recommends 5w30, 10w30 and 10w40 viscocity. What would be the viscosity that is best for lowest engine wear for city driving conditions in your opinion . Would greatly appreciate your response.
That speaker reminds me of Richard Simmons' Total Body Workout on TV. LOL I am just short of 50 years of vehicle ownership both in daily drivers and performance machines, and I have never had an oil related failure using name brand oils in the viscosity listed in the owner's manual. Jeez and some I have kept for over 200K miles from new.
Funny how the exact same motor from the exact same manufacturer working in the exact same temperature range and climate has 2 different requirements for oil weight and add pac.
Question, I run the VR1 in my Chevelle. My engine builder recommends a 10W40 and I can use a 10W30. So I went on line and found an oil viscosity calculator for mixing two different viscosities to come up with another one. Is it safe to mix two different viscosities of the same brand of oil? Valvoline says they don't recommend it, but that might just be them covering their butt. What's your opinion? Per the viscosity calculator, I can mix 3 quarts of 10W30 with 4 quarts of 20W50 and come up with roughly a 15W40 Will that work or is that a bad idea?
I switched to 10W-30 in my 2.4 L engine in my jeep renegade from the 0W 20 to attend W-2 and if I can’t find a 10W-30 I’ll use a 5W-30 I could understand using 0W 20 or 0W 30 if your daytime high is only in the high 50s or low 60s And then below zero at night time
Mr. Lake Speed , my 2023 Lexus IS 350 calls for a 0 W 20 . The owners manuel says that if I drive at high speeds or pull heavy loads , I may use a thicker viscosity oil . Can I use say a 0 W 30 or a 5 W 30 oil , will it be safe . Thank you Sir for your tlme and the video . May God bless you .
If you drive like crazy constantly revving your engine in the red zone, then go for 0w30 or even 0w40 as the difference between 20 and 30 is not that high - again it differs from manufacturer to manufacturer, and for sportier applications 40 would be a better choice. If you drive normally, stick to 20 as the manufacturer recommends. 20 is for regular driving mode like 90% of people have going to work and from work without sporty ambitions. If you really load your engine hard revving it near red zones, you definitely have to go for thicker oil.
Great video guys...thank you! I live in Alberta Canada and I own a Stage 2 (catted downpipe, MHD stage 2 tuned) 2018 BMW M240I X-drive with 36000 miles that produces about 450 HP and 475 lb-ft of torque at the wheels. I exclusively use the Shell Nitro+ 93 octane fuel (10% methanol). The oil temperature at normal running temp is 215 F. The manufacturer calls for 0W20, but I have zero idea what the main bearing clearance is. Am I correct in assuming that 0W30 will be fine and likely, preferable to use, at least in the summer?
I rented a 300 Chrysler 5.7 in AZ, with 0w20 it knocked and ticked every morning, it was never below 90f. So local temps matter. 0w20 also returns to the pan faster than a 10w30.
It’s 110 degrees outside today. Summer is here. My car takes 5w30 but I’ve got some 10w30 I’d like to use up. I don’t think the 5w30 will get down to that 5 number anyway. Tell me the pros and cons of using the 10w30 this summer
My 5.0 f150 is recommended 5w-20 in the us and Canada, but is recommended 5w-30 in the Mexican version. My vehicle is higher mileage and vibrated a lot. I ran 0w-30 and most of the unusual vibrations went away. I now exclusively use 0w-30 or high quality 5w-30. Timing chain sounds a lot happier too 😂
0-20 is shortening engine life, and makes engines consume oil, especially nowadays with pistonrings with less tension. That is me experience atleast. 5-30 is good choice for a normal passenger car.
Low tension rings do better with low viscosity oils. The low tension rings can actually hydroplane over instead of scrape oil off the cylinder walls if the oil is too vicious.The fuel efficiency gains with low viscosity designed engines is not only lower pumping losses but also lower rings to cylinder friction because lower tension scraper rings are needed because of lower viscosity oil.
@@jtmartin8445hydroplane ???? Lmao. Agree ive never heard of that. Its not like engine oil versus gear oil. I believe running thicker oil will make engine last longer...
My old Fords oil pressure was a bit lacking having 565,000 miles and instead of raising the thickness of the oil I lowered the thermostat temp from 192 to 180 degrees and the oil pressure came back to the way it was...
Hey Lake Jr. I have a stock ford 4.6 3v in my Mustang and run 20-30 min hpde/time trial road courses. Oil temp usually settles at about 220 on cooler days and up to 235 on hot days. I've been running a 50/50 blend of FR20 and LS30. Should I continue with the blend or go straight 5/30 for my application?
Please help this conundrum..... "hotter oil gets thinner"...as a general rule, yet for multi-grade oils like 5W-30.....the base oil is 5 weight to allow better flow at low temps, but with its viscisity improvers it acts like a heavier 30 weight oil when at higher operating temps. In this arguement, the oil is thicker as it warms. Can you offer guidance on this apparent contradiction..... for better understanding?
@@TotalSeal ....I fully understand W is for "Winter" and not "Weight", but presenting the question this way helps for presenting the question. I viewed the details of the vid but it goes into arcane testing details and doesn't really address the core question. Let try this way---> a 5W-30 oil acts as a "5" ( lower viscosity) oil to help cold-weather flow....yet it acts as a "30" ( higher viscosity) oil, when warmed up...like a straight "30" oil...all done by using additives and viscosity improvers. A "30" oil will flow with more resistance through passages than a "5" oil.....like it was "thicker". Yet the common convention says oil get thinner when hotter. Can someone distill down the core thinking behind this ??????
Let's explain in a simple way. Oil thins out in higher temp, that's a fact. Imagine single grade oil at sae 5, it will have a viscosity of let's say 60cSt @ 40°C and 3cSt @ 100°C. Another single grade oil at sae 30 will have a visc of let's say 90cSt @ 40°C and 10cSt @ 100°C. The sae 5 oil is what you need during a cold start but at normal operating temp that oil will be too thin. In contrast, the sae 30 oil is too thick during cold start although it is at good visc for normal operating temp. This is where 5w30 multigrade oil comes in. It has sae 5 visc grade at low temp and has sae 30 visc grade at high temp i.e. 60cSt @ 40°C and 10cSt @ 100°C. I rounded cSt values to nearest integers for easier understanding.
@@1_D333....I guess that is what I was angling for....a (say) 5W-30 is basically 5 weight "core" oil.....with lots of viscosity improvers to allow it to behave like a 30 weight when "warmed".
@@TheWilferchbut don't forget that oil gets thinner when temp raises. Now you can google "oil viscosity graph" where Y-axis is visc (cSt) n X-axis is temp. You'll notice what I mean. And multigrade oil is just a crossing line of two single grade oils which otherwise parallel to each other.
great vid guys, has anyone talked about oil film strength?? I think this is particularly relevant in ball bearing conrods and similar, like many motorbikes have. thx.
@@TotalSeal My Kia with 0w20 was blowing through a qt. of oil in 300 miles, with 10w30 it went to 1000 miles. So I don't agree with a single upgrade to the second number being a problem. And I got rid of the Korean cars due to the many inherent issues...
Toyota states in their owners manual that a higher viscosity idk can be used in high load conditions. So you can use 5W-30 if car calls for 0W-20 without voiding the warranty.
For most drivers, use the oil weight recommended by the manufacturer. Use a high-quality synthetic, change it and the filter every 3,000 miles, drive gently, and a well-built vehicle will last a long, long time.
The problem is my car has 200k miles and my oil gets very hot.. 218°f/103°c and I drive mainly city miles.. wouldn't I be better off running 0w40 at these temps?
I know many of the recommended weights by manufacturers are really thin for emissions and economy and in other countries they direct the owners of the same engines to run thicker oils so you need to really know what is best for your engine…
Oil weight aside, oil changes at 3k miles with modern oils, let alone full synthetic, is a complete waste of oil and money. Don’t do that. It certainly won’t hurt your engine, just your wallet. But, it won’t help either.
While friction and wear are independent of each other it's possible to reduce friction (10~30%) while reducing wear (50~90%). If boundary lubrication is maintained, by bonding a lubricant to internal parts, you can safely use lower viscosity oil without worrying that the lubricant film will break down. Engine life can be extended by 2~10x 🙂 #XcelPlus
I Was Told I'm Over Thinking What Oil I Should Run. My Mains Said 30 And The Rods Said 40. The Machine Shop That Built My Short Block Said 20w50. I Said Why And They Said The Added Bearing Clearance. I Called Amsoil And It Was Literally The Same Thing. They Said Yea Run 40 Weight But If Machine Shop Said 50 Run 50. He Was Like, It's Not A Big Deal To Run Oil That's A Little More Viscous. I've Got A Little 3.8 V6 Turbo Engine FWD Auto That I Will Be Daily Driving Again. It The Little Details That Will Drive You Crazy.
How does the choice of oil viscosity differ with different types of camshafts? What if the rules require a functional flat tappet hydraulic lifter vs a solid and or what about a hydraulic or solid roller? Do those differences also change the needs of the engine when it comes to viscosity?
I had for now only old vehicles who accepted even the 15W-40 oil. Two Diesels, both indirect injection ones, and two gasoline/LPG ones, a 1.0l 3 cylinder made from Daihatsu, and a 1.731cc I4 Volvo one. In all four I use and used 5W-40. With 5W-40 instead of 10 or worse 15W-40 I have less fuel consumption and less oil consumption. Just to give some data, the indirect injection turbo car I had, had consumed 2l of oil in 6000km during a summer trip in Spain (starting from Italy) with the 15W-40. Same km the next year with the 5W-40, it consumed something like 100cc. The other Diesel was a 2.5l 70hp naturally aspirated from the early '80s, on an autocaravan, same story, with the 5W-40 less consumption of fuel and oil.
If i may ask ... My motorcycle manufacturer recomends a 10w30 engine oil .... Is it okay if i switch to a 5w40 from a 10w30 ? .... Which one is better for protection in high rpm and high temperature ? And is it okay to use car engine oil in a matic motorcycle ? .... Because as we know, they both use dry clutch.
Dear Lake, should I switch from manufacturer’s recommended 0W20 to 0w30 in Honda Accord 2012 4cyl engine for less engine wear and better engine protection? This car is my daily city driving vehicle in San Diego, CA with 200,000 miles on the odometer and usually 3K-5K oil change intervals with Mobil or Pennzoil. There are thousands of mechanics out there that tell users to stay away from SAE20 and other lower weight oil as the engine life is very much reduced because of using those. Please share your insight. Much appreciated!
In San Diego, you could probably use 5W-30, but we don’t recommend changing viscosity without doing used oil analysis before and after to know for certain if the viscosity change was beneficial.
Well i had 698,714 KM (434,160.8 miles) on a 1991 VW Turbo Diesel and never used any additives at all. My car was totaled by an a-hole, who ran a Red light. The engine had been still running great and never touched other than timing belt(s) and a couple glow plugs. I stuck to the 8000KM oil changes recommended by VW, drove 220-230 KM per day 5 days a week to work and back. Bought an '86 VW TD with the same engine to replace my totaled VW and put over 750,000KM on it before i retired. The '91 was bought new, the '86 had 229,000KM on it when i bought it.
@@KStewart-th4sk Old ones proofed to be a better quality... sorry to hear you had an accident and had to total the car, I would be mad as H.... I just replaced valve cover gasket on my 02 Mazda and engine is mirror clear, that Lucas additive does the job along with good quality oil.... I did had VW too previously, Jetta MK4 2.0, sold it under 200k miles, some few sensors needed to be replaced but was still running good.... Drive safe ✌️
This makes me think back to the 90s era, when NASCAR teams had Qualifying engines, then put in Race engine. People talked about, the engines ran really thin oil, etc, to get more HP to qualify faster, but won't survive a full race. Wonder what the backstory is there?
Lake jr./ can you help me, I drive my 2016 f 150 5.0 v8 only in the summers in Minn. And park it in the winters. I only start it in the winter in my garage twice to 3 times a month, 5 - 10 min. Just to lube the internal parts. Would using 0-20 be ok to use only to get the oil to internals faster at start up, and I use 5-30 Pennzoil ultra platinum in summer. Please let me know your thoughts, love your oil videos. THANKS!!
🔔👍 I run the Ford Fox police oil to water heat exchanger that connects in the return heater hose and installs under my oil filter. It stabilizes the temp around 210*f, I think. 10w30 Mobil1. That always seemed like a good idea. The trucks hook it to the cold radiator hose.
Our 2018 F150…5.0 with plasma cylinder walls used 1qt of 5w-20 semi synthetic Motorcrafter oil every 3000 miles and went thru 2 Ford authorized oil consumption tests. At 20,000 miles I changed to 5w-30 Motorcraft semi synthetic oil and the consumption problem was gone. I now have 45,000 miles on the engine ant it might use a cup in 3K miles. I change oil every 4-5 k miles or yearly if I don’t drive it much…
Great video guys I’ve seen this stuff happen before myself and seen it talked about not this in depth tho I’ve seen most of it from high oil temps to lots of blow by from boost or ethanol use especially if it’s pig rich I find these people that say stick to oem manufactures hilariously full of themselves thinking they already know everything having an open mind is the only way to learn oem manufactures actually recommend different specs in different kind of uses or conditions mostly not on the manual in the glove box but if you do research on their web sites or some even have posters at the parts department stating it Subaru for one I can literally get a picture tomorrow from Subaru in surprise in phx az stating it being ignorant and using it to try and discredit professionals that work hard day in day out to get they’re knowledge is my biggest pet peeve of anyone actual red this looong as paragraph god bless your family’s 😊
I'm pretty new to investigating the best oils to maintain the engine I have so that it will outlast me and I'm curious; where can I find the main bearing clearance spec for my vehicle? I can't seem to find numbers by basic internet search for my 2020 GLC43
Thank you Again MOG! WITHOUT correct lubrication and filtering correctly your doomed to fail. Like the old TV commercial you pay me now! Or pay alot more later it never pays to cut corners on lubrication. Do have a resource for someone who is good with ignition upgrades? I wa t to go distriborless on a 5.9 magnum using LS1 GM ignition coils an you make a recommendation please.
I would like to know what's the deal with 5W-40 oil and why it's so rare to find anyone recommending or using it It's a guess from my car's manual but there is a chart that says "if you drive at temperatures from X to Y and use high quality oil this viscosity" So I chose 5W-40 because it does get cold here but it has become really hot here recently and it's an older engine I am no expert but I think it's the best oil for most older engines that are still running really well. The previous owner was using conventional 10w30 and I switched to a full synthetic 5w40 so it's gonna be better no matter what and the fuel consumption stayed the same
Thanks for the awesome info! I always seem to be thinking about running thicker oil in my car. It's just a toyota v6 that i don't drive hard but I would love to try 15w 40 oil in the summer when I do long trips. Never thought about the piston ring tension. I can't seem to get myself to try anything other than the 5W 30 my manual says but this was a fun thought experiment for me. Looking forward to learning more from you guys!
I'm a big fan of 15-40 and use it in a lot of my engines and customers engines. I shy away from it in modern cars with variable cam timing stuff, some of them seem to be pretty sensitive to oils. While there might be better options, you typically won't go wrong with using what the manual says.
I have a 2008 c63 and the manual recommends 0w40 or 5w40. I have been running 5w49 because people say the 5w is better to prevent lifter tick at startup. Is this what you would go with?
@@DimoS... resistance to flow is viscosity..... both numbers are weights. 0w40 flows faster than 5w40 at cold temperatures (cold engine start) but has the same viscosity at operating temp (212 degrees F).
I thought I heard that variable cam timing was controlled by oil pressure so changing the viscosity could affect Cam timing negatively. I do use thinker gear oils for my truck the the manufacture says to as I know they want better MPG with the thinner oils. I would rather have more protection.
My car calls for 0w20 but i live in az where as now temperatures stays around 90-100 and later on summer we usually reach 120 so i use 5w30 it is ok? Or should i go back to 0w20?
I once visited Phoenix. AZ during a summer week when it was a 108-degree Fahrenheit temperature. In a newer engine, I would stick with 0W-20 regardless of the outside temperatures.Once you get to 75,000 miles, you can use 5W-30 oil full synthetic.
If your owners manual gives you options, 10w30. If you have a warranty and the owners manual only says 0w20, I'd use Redline group IV 0w20 for the POE base and high anti-wear additive package. Just my opinion. I rented a Chrysler 300 Hemi in AZ 2 years ago, on start up it knocked, clattered and did it every morning. Oil cap said 0w20, it was fairly new car, low miles. 0w20 is crap over 35c, it returns to the oil pan too fast.
@@patrickhenry2845 I don't agree. Your car runs hotter when the outside temperature is higher. Every online viscosity chart says 0w20 is no good over 30 or 35c. My cars are under aftermarket warranties, I run 10w30 in the summer, I have receipts for 0w20 that's required year around. Not having any problems.
Here's my advice and take: Use what's recommended by the manufacturer of your vehicle (it's been durablity tested with that) and change your oil frequently. No additives necessary! Just good motor oil!
I would add a caveat: Use what the ROW oil recommendation is in your vehicle manual, not the US recommendation. Example: My Toyota 1UR-FE in my GX460 says "0w-20 no matter what!" in my US manual. However, in the manual for Japan, AE, SA, France, Spain, every Africa Country, South America, etc it gives a range for viscosities and does not rec 0w-20 on the oil use chart for anything over 90F. Except I live in Texas and we go weeks at a time where it won't go below that *at night*, with days close to 110. What do these other manuals (that literally all are identical) say? They recommend 5w-30 syn for my vehicle for that temp range, with 0w-40/5w-40 if I am towing or otherwise doing "heady duty" things. SO, I use Castrol Edge Ti Syn or Pennzoil Ultra Plat 5w-30 and my oil consumption went from on quart per 5k OCI to literally zero. Nothing. MPG's are up slightly, engine runs much smoother (even at 17F). My point being, the US manual was written by bean counters. The ROW manuals were written by engineers. I trust the engineers.
@@DBravo29er you are right on, same for my Mazda 3. In US says 0w20 but Mexico, etc, 5w30. The only thing is would say is that the US manual is written to meet EPA and mileage reasons.
@@amycyclenut Yep. And let's be honest, the car isn't going to "fall apart" under 100k miles with 0w-20. BUT, it will be in far worse shape and probably burning oil with needlessly high cam wear. That's just science. For people who don't keep cars longer than 100k miles, WGAF, right? But I keep my vehicles for at least 200k. At least.
My 5.0 f150 is recommended 5w-20 in the us and Canada, but is recommended 5w-30 in the Mexican version. My vehicle is higher mileage and vibrated a lot. I ran 0w-30 and most of the unusual vibrations went away. I now exclusively use 0w-30 or high quality 5w-30. Timing chain sounds a lot happier too 😂
I would love to see you guys build an engine and run it 500K mile on a Dyno with different visocisity oils repeatedly and weight and measure every part before you assemble the engine then after. Use a calibrated anylitcal scale to measure every part before and after. This way we can see how the chain wears, lifters wear, cams wear, bearings wear with each oil. Check for chain stretch etc.....
One thing I've never heard anybody mention is it all or cool gasoline engines have a thermostat that usually 195 to 200 degrees. This means the engine runs the same temperature all the time no matter if it's 48° outside or 100° outside . So it should make no difference the outside temperature as far as the oil is concern.
Great video! But now I have questions! Thank you very much, so I have a BBC 454 jet drive stock 91 octaine from 47 to 5200 RPM OIl pressure hot is 60 and a bit over 100PSI ta max RPM I am using 20/50 Valoline High zinc on a 300 hour motor. Should I hit the danger zone and change to a thiner oil?
My vehicle is 21 years old now, use what the manual says. 5w30. It recommends 0w30 or synthetic 5w30 if it gets below a certain temp in the winter, so I just use synthetic 5w30 year round. Used 0w30 one time, just wasn't impressed much by it or it's higher price.
I have some questions about which oil to use in new race motor. I was recommended to use Driven oils but am getting a couple of mixed messages as to which one will suit the motor best. Is there any way of contacting you directly to get your thoughts?
@@TotalSeal I'm in Australia and while that's not too much of a problem, part of my question has to do with info from my machinist/engine builder AND an Oil Rep at Driven. Both recommended a different Driven oil product so I'm not quite sure which advice to follow.
@@TotalSeal It's a highly modified alu block Porsche 968 turbo engine for Time Attack that runs on race grade E85 only. It has been sleeved with Darton MiD sleeves which are a thick ductile iron product. The engine builder and machinist (who installed the sleeves) gave me a chart for the XP6 line of oils. Based on clearances you select which weight to go for. But when I contacted Joe Gibbs oils one of their Reps said this: “I chose the GP-1 15W-40 for a couple of reasons. The 15W-40 is a better fit for your main bearing clearance, your front and rear bearings were a bit tighter than the rest, but I would recommend going to the heavy side in line with the centre mains. I did not consider the XP for your application because the XP has very little detergent and virtually no corrosion protection package. XPs are formulated for applications that are disassembled and inspected after every event.” When I looked at what type of cars GP-1 was recommended for it ranges across quite a few different purposes. From racecars to street rods. Whereas it looks like the XP-6 is for drag type applications where the motors are torn down after each event. Do you think I'm reading this correctly? ps...thanks for even responding. Much appreciated. Oh ps..before this motor was sleeved we used to run a 60w oil so I get nervous when seeing people recommend 40w product. But I don't know what the clearances were for the last iteration prior to sleeving.
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a 2018 Camry V6 (the current generation) and I live in a mostly hot climate all year round. The dealer recommended me to use 5w30 and if I wanted to go for 10w40 (which they used on my car when I didn’t know better lol) there wouldn’t be a problem. Toyota engines can accept wider range of oil viscosity. I was shocked when I found out that US spec Toyota models use 0w20 oil. I have been using 5w30 full synthetic and for years and no problems whatsoever. 0w20 is too thin for that engine in my opinion.
That 0w20 is from our corrupt government wanting .1 more mpg. Some folks say it's because the tolerances are tighter on new cars, but the same car is using 20w50 in Austrailia. And if you freeze 0w20, it flows like SAE90, destroying to tighter tolerances myth.
For sure, 20 weight is not fit for a hot climate. I drive between Orlando and Miami all year round, no way I would ever put a 0w-20 in my Toyota. As usual what works in some nerds lab does not hold up in the real world. I ran my V-8 Chevy in Houston TX on 10w-40, got over 189K miles and finally dumped it because too many other things went bad, the engine was still running fine.
After 50 years of doing it myself, I finally seriously researched motor oil. I came to the shocking realization that I could have used nothing but 10W-30 in every vehicle I have ever owned from the early 70s till today. In several of them, the recommended viscosity was 5W-30. However, in the fine print it always said you could use 10W-30 if the temperature never went below 0 Fahrenheit. So there.
10w30 is excellent...stable, and low noack.
You can use 100w-20 if you'll never let your car in winter Temps but there's no advantage to that instead of just buy 0w
@@jason200912 I have never owned a vehicle where the recommended oil was 5W-20 or 0W-20. If it was the recommendation, I would use it. With the ones where 5W-30 was recommended, the fine print said you could use 10W-30 if the temperature did not go below zero F. I could have used nothing but 10W-30 in every vehicle I ever owned with a cast iron American engine.
The point is, I could have used one oil all my life, never debated, discussed or researched the topic and been no worse off. But I like to research. Almost anything.
@@anonymike8280what's the purpose of oil logistics for you though because the oil additives degrades overtime and you should only buy it when you're ready to do the oil change
2016 Kia Rio. Says 5W-20 on oil filler cap. Manual says you can also use 5W-30, or if it never goes below zero 10W-30.
Thanks for the great video. One thing to keep in mind, fuel dilution changes the viscosity requirement for pedestrian gas cars too. We can choose an oil that provides adequate MOFT under 100% of normal operating situations, but when driving around town, fuel can accumulate in the oil. Follow this up by a blast down the road at high speed, some towing, or a track day without enough time to evaporate the fuel, and bearing failure can be the result. The Audi supercharged V6 is well known for this.
Great point!
There is more than fuel dilution at work here. A 5W 30 oil is a 5 weight oil.cold with viscosity improvers to make it act like a 30 weight oil when it is hot. Operating in the tight clearances of a running engine a couple of other things that happen beyond fuel dilution are shear back whereby those viscosity improvers get broken. Think of them kind of like tiny bits of thread that get torn in half, so now your hot oil behaves more like a 25 or 20 when hot. Another thing that happens is boil off. Petroleum is a compendium of molecules with different boiling points. When you get the oil well warmed up the light ends vapourize and get carried out in the PCV system. Now your 5 oil becomes 8 or 10 when cold.
Synthetic oils do not have the range of molecules petroleum oils do and can be engineered for qualities the designers want. Thus they do not have the same light end boiloff or the shearback. Synthetics generally have premium additive packages in them that prevent shear better.
Like the old Fram filters ad, pay me now or pay me later. You generally get what you pay for, so if you pay for cheap shit, you get cheap shit.
@@daledavies2334 speaking of PCV , I wish people would change their friggin pcv valves! Some cars should have them changed as early as 30,000 miles. Then on another topic, I also wish folks would do their transmission fluid at regular intervals. Today's small DI turbo engines with a CVT is so easy to do, you should really be doing it atleast once a year. Or at a minimum of every 30,000 miles.
@@daledavies2334 THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU! So many people nowadays think that a multi-vis oil is the hot number - ie 5W 30 is the same thing as SAE 30 - and will argue and even want to fight you over that. I was beginning to think I was the only one still alive who knows what Multi-grade oil is.
@@vermontvermont9292 They insist on waiting for the trans to start slipping, and by then it is often too late. The damage has been done, and the death spiral has started.
Simple.!! If u live where it's cold use a thinner oil. If u live where it's hot use a thicker oil. Change your oil every 5 thousand miles.
For some odd reason... I was wishing mr T could have popped into this video just to say "jibber-jabber" just one time. But there are a few nuggets worth our time.
LOL
I agree. I never got the 'point' being made. Too much zig-zag .
I use what my car manufacturer recommends in the winter and put in a slightly thicker oil in the summer. Most of all, I pay attention to the night time temps. I want the thinner oil in there for cold nights. When it never gets below freezing at night, only then will I put in my summer oil. You want the oil flowing freely at start up...always.
All multi-grade will flow freely at start-up. It is SINGLE-GRADE that may not.
5w should work unless you see -30+
@@AntilleanConfederationat that temp, even 0W oils may take a little bit to get up to the valve train upon startup.
@@carlovanrijk4039 exactly
@jamesbosworth4191 back in the day, my Dad was having trouble starting his 6.2 diesel ⛽️ on colder days (n.w.corner of Oregon) I switched from his straight 30 to a multi viscosity... problem solved
Working in a large fleet operation, 200 units, cars, SUVs, trucks from class 3 to class 8, I observed 1st hand the effects of 0- 5, 5-20
Each vehicle that the manufacturer recommends
super light weight oils had knocks, rattles, changing to 10-30 stopped it all.
Our fleet was made up of GM, Dodge, Ford, gas, and diesel engine cars and trucks in Colorado.
Managing a fleet you get see the effects even before the manufacturer does.
Isn't the purpose of low viscosity oil all about better fuel economy ?
@@speedfreak8200 At the expense of engine life.
@@jamesbosworth4191 only for American junk. I had a 2012 Camry that I put 217,000 miles on using 0W 20 oil. Never burned oil between 10,000 mile oil changes and no knock or engine problems of any sort whatsoever.
@@markkauffman6184They didn't advertise 10,000 mile oil change intervals in 2012. Also, lots of people have told me in a bragging way that they hardly every change their oil, yet their engines is "perfect". Well, it does start, and it does move the vehicle forward, but perfect??? Pounding like a blacksmith making horseshoes is hardly "perfect".
@@jamesbosworth4191 actually in the owners manual it did say you could go 10,000 miles under normal driving conditions. I did a lot of highway driving and so it fell into that normal driving conditions. My engine did not burn any oil and when I looked inside valve cover, there was zero varnish, all you saw was gray metal. The only reason I sold it was it was starting to rust - and in the rust belt that is the kiss of death.
Excellent video! I’ve never seen a chart that gives you a baseline for where to start with bearing clearances. I want to build a road race 454 LS7, and now I can have an intelligent talk with my engine builder. I’d like to run 0W-40 on the road course at an oil temperature greater than 212°F and still have adequate oil pressure at 7000 RPM. Hopefully going with the gas-ported, gapless 1mm, 1mm, 2mm ring package! Thanks for educating the track rats and gearheads out there!
We are happy to help! The gas ported top rings are awesome, and the 0W-40 should be a solid option with bearing clearances between .002 and .0025
@DimosTs192 dodge specificies a 0w40 for all their scat packs aka 6.4l Hemi, so at least at start up I cant imagine they would spec an oil leading to wear under warranty...in fact other oils will void it....
I run a 5w50 in a 7600rpm LS7 build get about 75psi hot at shift....
The gen 3 boosted coyote calls for 5w50 it would see 90psi at 8000rpm shifts well 7850
@@DimoS...does the w stand for weight or winter ?
@@speedfreak8200winter
Great video. Interesting how important the 40c viscosity is.
In many climates it’s the viscosity change of the oil from say 10c or 20c to 100c that is so relevant.
I switched my '16 Corolla to 5w30 from 0w20 at 200K miles. Now, I don't have to add a quart to quart and a half every 5K miles, my car is quieter, and the efficiency is the same for me. Owner's manuals in other countries list MULTIPLE grades for the exact same engines. This "0w20 only" nonsense is only a sop to the EPA/Feds, and I love that people refuse to accept this as per their programming.
5w30 should be ok for extreme cold temperatures right???
Be sure to use a PEA (techron is one) fuel additive to keep those piston rings clean. Biggest prob with those low tension rings is fuel dilution of oil after the rings get sludge/carbon on them. Fuel mixed with your oil takes that viscosity way down. Big time wear.
EPA is screwing Americans - full corruption.
Never had to top up engine oil before.
@@ivanhamlyn Look at an online viscosity chart. You say Extreme, I'm thinking 0c, you should be running 0w20 or 0w30.
@@MyerShift7 I went with 0w30
Good video. One has to remember that with miles come wear, the clearances will get bigger thus less resistance for the oil. With higher milage you will have too use a thicker oil.
High mileage oil
@@matt4398 Only for leaks. I've read High Mileage will cause rubber seals to expand...
FINALLY! There had to be one of those charts somewhere.
Thanks! We are glad to help.
For the new wrx's, Subaru recommends 5W-30 in the Canadian owner's manual and 0w 20 in the US owner's manual. It has to do with EPA requirements in the usa.
This^ Ford does it too. US vehicles are being destroyed by the EPA
CAFE in the USA.
I guess this is the problem. What are you optimising for? If it is only fuel economy, you are going to use thinner oils with some degradation of durability to maximise fuel economy.
If the standards talked about the total energy required to build a car, then maybe you might prioritise durability a little higher.
This seems backwards, as Canada is colder than US and therefore would be better to have thinner oil.
@@bakemonking Yep. I checked the known bearing clearances for my BRZ and 0W-20 was correct for most people, except high temperature racing.
However using the charts, a turbocharged engine with the same bearing clearances should be running 5W-30 or 10W-30. Definitely for fuel economy or US CAFE.
Love your work mr Speed Jr . As you chaps say” awsum “. Together with all these other boffins you introduce , this is just the best fun. Thank you to Stapleton 42 for helping me finds you guys. Keep it gannin lads✌
Glad you enjoy it!
Stapleton lead me here also
We need to figure out an oil and filter package for our sprint car motors over the off season. Love your content. ❤
Thank you!
One additional point, when using piston squirters, distributor gear squirters or in engines that have other forms or devices or wear that can result in oil pressure/flow escapes, (leaking timing chain tensioners or slightly worn oil pump are a good example on an older engine) The use of ultra low viscosity oil can result in zero flow to distant components. It's not that the parts need more viscosity, it's that the system as designed or operated can't provide adequate flow, often during very low RPM conditions. This is why we sometimes see the farthest cam bearing cap wiped-out first. And why a move to a more viscous oil is a viable solution.
I keep looking through these hoping to see Lake Speed Sr show up. I miss the glory days of NASCAR.
I run 5/30 in my wife's Chrysler and 0/20 in my Alfa, just as the manufacturer recommends. No problems and we run them long and hard on trips (300+ miles between stops @80mph).
What's the outside temp when using the 0w20. I'm not a fan of light oil in hot climates...
@@lonniebeal6032 Freezing or boiling. There's no other recommendation. It seems to work fine. The engine temps never go above 192 and it doesn't use oil...about 1 qt every 10K miles.
Ford recommends 5w-20 for my Coyote 5.0 f150. But one thing I noticed is that most 5w-20 evaporative characteristics is what is giving the 5.0 a reputation for high oil consumption. By simply going to 5w-30 I noticed my Oil Catch can had less oil in it and my oil level was better between oil changes. OE recommendations isn’t always the best.
Same 5w30
That's because, today, oil viscosity recommendations are partly based on gas mileage, rather than engine life.
@@jamesbosworth4191true… it’s about making money too
@@jamesbosworth4191 Entirely actually. Its a numbers game and longevity pays out exactly 0 dollars.
Yeah, I switched to 5w-30 at around 70k miles. I was researching and came to the conclusion 5w-30 was best for my vehicle. I had no idea that there were quite a few F-150 owners who did the same, as I wasn’t specifically searching based on the F-150, just location and the pros and cons of 5w-20 vs 5w-30.
It started with my diff fluid/gear oil. Went with a slightly thicker viscosity for better protection. Sure, MPGs takes a slight hit, but I don’t think the majority of us got a truck for it’s spectacular MPGs. It was even recommended by most Ford YT mechanics to go with a thicker gear oil in the diff vs what Ford recommends.
Wow, I wasn't expecting to see an Oldsmobile head in this video
Many years ago I ran two different oils to test on a very hobby level, but there was almost 40 degrees *C oil temperature difference, one was Semi-Synthetic maybe 15-40 or 10-40, the other was Full Synthetic maybe 5-30. It is a long time ago, but I was impressed at the difference, it was also two different brands, so many changes. But one of them was around 95*C and the other around 135*C at full warm somewhat "hard driving" on the street, not on track.
What oil was best for the motor I would guess the one that kept the heat the lowest. As long as the pistons also were cooler, and not just the oil.. Hmm.. I guess above 100*C would be nice for some water evaporation though.
But what actually made me comment here, was the Cylinder head, just a random Olds head on the table.
Thanks!
Which oil run hotter for your experience?
@@BoredGeese In my experience fully synthethic runs cooler if you check the oil temp gauge, if it is because that oil transport more heat away from the other materials, bearings, pistons etc. or absorbs less heat than mineral oil I do not know, I only get more questions thinking about it than answers.
But if the synthethic has less wear than mineral oil, I guess part of the lower temperature is because there is less friction, less wear and less temperature because of that. But maybe it is cooler because it is more effective at transfering more heat away instead? And is that because of the more uniform size of the synthetic oil molecules or because of more/better additives? I do not know. But too hot oil is not good atleast, but then, what is too hot oil? What is the limit?
Thin oil is ok for winter months, but 5w-30 or 40 makes more sense in warm weather. Has stronger film on bearings and lowers blow-by.
Another great class! Thanks guys!
Thanks! We have a great podcast episode coming soon on this topic.
Truly my dream job. U should do some testinging on shaeffers and its moly addative. I’m sure u kno about it but videos would be cool showing how and why it works. As far as incredible luberication and capability’s. Iv seen night and day diff in temps, line pressure, mileage, breakdown etc, hope to see some vids
Great suggestion!
The Ow has more additives that break down over time than the 5w or 10w.
The lower the range, the less additives.
I was using Castrol Edge 5w40 which was oem for my turbo car.
Now I'm doing Castrol Edge 0w40 which had a higher lube rating than the 5w40 but more additives which break down.
The 0 should pump faster on start up which prevents wear.
The engine seems happy with either and I'm in the Pacific Northwest so we don't have extreme hot or cold weather.
I'll just use whichever is cheaper or available..lol
I do 10k full synthetic oil changes and filter. 72k and runs like new.
Mazda mpv V6 ran Mobil 1 5w30 at 10k oil changes and ran like new for 150k miles and sold car.
Cheers
I have a 2013 Ford Edge 3.5 cyclone engine at the current time I'm running 5W-20 Mobil 1 AF synthetic, I know that was recommended strictly for CAFE here in the US, because in other countries, they recommend 5W-30. I know that engine is not hard on oil, I have a 120000 on it right now, I've already had the water pump replaced, along with the timing chain, tensioners, guides and oil pump. Would you recommend going to a 5W-30? Stay with this oil?
Thank you for your help
I don’t know if that is going to help you but one my friends at my previous work used to have a Mazda CX9 with the same engine as your Ford Edge. He clocked at over 400 thousand kilometres (250k miles plus) using 5w20 oil and didn’t have any issues engine wise. Aside from charging the water pump obviously.
Won’t hurt a thing.
Most people don't understand multi weight oils or viscosity; this subject is best explained by SAE ( society of automotive engineers )!!!
I have been using Rotella or Delvac 15W40 in everything I own since the 70s. Which included a3.5hp Briggs & Stratton push mower that lasted 25 years!?!?!?
Today I use Rotella 5W40 synthetic in everything.
I said all this as a retired CAT&CUMMINGS diesel mechanic.
Do u have gasoline vehicles that say 0w20 or 5w20 that u use 5w40 in?
Makes me want to rethink my Jeep 4.0 and just run 10W-30 instead of 5w-40 year round here in Arizona.
I'm in TX. I have found that 0w-40 is a really good solution. M1 is really thin for a a 40wt, if you want that.
@@DBravo29er I’ve been really happy with Valvoline HM 5w-30 so far, no more click tapping at start up anymore.
@@dad3562 that's a good, thick for grade oil. It's on the heavy end of the 30wt range. If we used half weight ratings, it would be a 35 weight oil all day. 👍
@@DBravo29er no way it is?! For real, I didn’t know that! Crap, now I have to Google it to confirm. I seriously did not know that!
@@dad3562 Yeah the KV100 and HTHS are pretty robust. It's good oil
1:09 is what you guys are looking for. Use this chart and find out what your bearing clearance is. This will work for 90% of people
I have a (what I think) is a great question.
I collect many Japanese imports. My cars from Japan, state to use 5w40/10w40. My US SPEC Honda/Acura that uses the same identical B18C VTEC engine, states to use the factory 5w30/10w30. The ONLY difference in the two is that the Japanese spec revs a bit higher because of the ECU. I always wondered why the difference.
A better similarity is a Japanese spec S2000 to a US S2000. Japan states in the owners manual 5/40-10w40, in the US 10w30.
Do you know why? Emissions BS? Marketing? I hate to question or argue with a true Honda engineer, but I feel you would know!
Love the channel
The lower viscosity spec in the US is because of EPA fuel economy requirements.
We use straight 30 wt, in our hot rod engines, because we run .003 thou. On the mains, and .002 thou. On the rods. Lighter oil might allow the crank to hammer the bearings at 7 to 8,000 rpm
I have been using synthetic oil only in race engines for near 30 years. Road race or dirt oval engines. Have normally used 25/50. Chev road race engine did aprox 2200 race miles and the bearings were basically brand new. Good enough to reuse. Unfortunatly the crank was cracked! I did use 15/40 also, seemed no different. This on a drysumped SBC road race engine with a decent oil cooler running to 7500. Oil temp usually around 220-230degF
Current project is a 5 litre Ford to 340ci. Will be run to 7500 also. The windsor oil pump drive is too small@ 5/16,, weak and I am stuck with a [good] wet sump. I feel 10/40 may be the go. Crank will be aprox 2 thou right along.
Use a crome molly shaft.
Even amsoil in a way suggests to go one grade higher or lower. We have a choice to go one grade higher or lower according to ambient temperature and driving conditions
In my personal experience, you technically should not replace 0W-20 with 5W-30. An engine with high mileage required 0W-20 and it runs smoothly and quietly; but once switched to 5W-30, it run less smooth and a bit louder. So with this experiment, I would just stick with recommended oil whether it is 0W-8, 0W-16, 0W-20, 5W-30, or 10W-30 etc; and perform the oil change every 6-9 mo or 5k-7k miles.
Lake, could you do a video talking about oil temperature? I read that we want it to boil out any water in the oil, but is there a reason why we want it to be hot? Is 150 as good as 180 or 210?
I've always just use that recommended in the owner's manual of the vehicle. They're pretty much all online these days.
For stock engines, that’s all you need.
I’m 5 min into the video, heard nothing but viscosity, viscosity, and how important it is. What is the point? What do you suggest people do rather than following manufacturer’s recommendation?
the lower the W number, the better (within reasonable cost, comparatively). The other number... well... whatever your ambient upper temperatures tend to be. For most people, 5w-30 is fine in most location. Otherwise 5w-40 is fine. Very very rarely would anyone need *W-50 or 60. These are either for highly stressed performance cars, high mileage engines, or very hot ambient temps.
If only you had watched the rest
I had read a research article which in short words stated that engine oil viscosity is based upon clearance of rod bearings. We all know rod bearings are the most critical parts of an engine to have maximum wear
W winter @@DoubtingThomas333
Freeze 0W20, then pour it out and talk that BS about rod bearings and clearances
When I added a supercharger to my sbc, I changed from 10w-30 to 0w-40. It's running over triple the stock hp so the oil is worked much harder and sees more heat.
Going up in viscosity is the right move when going from NA to Boost.
@@TotalSeal I've heard others recommend to stick with factory viscosity. No thanks! I wanted better cold flow for instant oil pressure and flow on cold starts.. while maintaining better protection when I step on the throttle. I recently read that the 650hp LT4 is factory filled with the same multi-grade viscosity.
@@EricErnst good thinking
@@EricErnst Not withstanding the fact that a 0w40 is already almost a 30 from the container and get to a low 30 after a few hours of operation
So, you still giving a 30 most of the time, anyways
Film strength matters too. The 0w40 requires more viscosity modifiers than a 10w30, assuming all else is equal. More viscosity modifiers (big numerical spread) often result in less shear resistance. The big numerical spread can look like everyone is happy, but might not be as protective as numbers closer together (less modifiers).
10w30 won't shear to less than 10. 0w40 can shear down to 0.
Always enjoy you videos guys!.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the kind words!
I drive a car with a low mileage 1 litre gdi turbo motor. I live in a a tropical country with temperatures around 80 f. My manual recommends 5w30, 10w30 and 10w40 viscocity. What would be the viscosity that is best for lowest engine wear for city driving conditions in your opinion . Would greatly appreciate your response.
For a GDI engine, go with an API SP 5W-30 synthetic.
@@TotalSeal Thank you v much 1for your time. Most channels never respond to viewer comments.
We are happy to help!
Actually, an oil analysis of each oil would give you the better answer. I am more inclined to say 10w30, cold flow rate at 70f is about the same.
That speaker reminds me of Richard Simmons' Total Body Workout on TV. LOL I am just short of 50 years of vehicle ownership both in daily drivers and performance machines, and I have never had an oil related failure using name brand oils in the viscosity listed in the owner's manual. Jeez and some I have kept for over 200K miles from new.
Great video...but i have no idea what my bearing clearances are or what my oil temp is running.
Funny how the exact same motor from the exact same manufacturer working in the exact same temperature range and climate has 2 different requirements for oil weight and add pac.
Question,
I run the VR1 in my Chevelle.
My engine builder recommends a 10W40 and I can use a 10W30.
So I went on line and found an oil viscosity calculator for mixing two different viscosities to come up with another one.
Is it safe to mix two different viscosities of the same brand of oil?
Valvoline says they don't recommend it, but that might just be them covering their butt. What's your opinion?
Per the viscosity calculator, I can mix 3 quarts of 10W30 with 4 quarts of 20W50 and come up with roughly a 15W40 Will that work or is that a bad idea?
Loved the video, I have no idea what I was supposed to learn. Still, I'm happy. :)
Glad you enjoyed it!
I switched to 10W-30 in my 2.4 L engine in my jeep renegade from the 0W 20 to attend W-2 and if I can’t find a 10W-30 I’ll use a 5W-30 I could understand using 0W 20 or 0W 30 if your daytime high is only in the high 50s or low 60s And then below zero at night time
Mr. Lake Speed , my 2023 Lexus IS 350 calls for a 0 W 20 . The owners manuel says that if I drive at high speeds or pull heavy loads , I may use a thicker viscosity oil . Can I use say a 0 W 30 or a 5 W 30 oil , will it be safe . Thank you Sir for your tlme and the video . May God bless you .
Go with the 0W-30 if you see the 0W-20 is not working. The way to know is via used oil analysis.
@TotalSeal Thank you Sir, for taking the time to answer my question and for the information. May God bless you.
If you drive like crazy constantly revving your engine in the red zone, then go for 0w30 or even 0w40 as the difference between 20 and 30 is not that high - again it differs from manufacturer to manufacturer, and for sportier applications 40 would be a better choice. If you drive normally, stick to 20 as the manufacturer recommends. 20 is for regular driving mode like 90% of people have going to work and from work without sporty ambitions. If you really load your engine hard revving it near red zones, you definitely have to go for thicker oil.
Great video guys...thank you! I live in Alberta Canada and I own a Stage 2 (catted downpipe, MHD stage 2 tuned) 2018 BMW M240I X-drive with 36000 miles that produces about 450 HP and 475 lb-ft of torque at the wheels. I exclusively use the Shell Nitro+ 93 octane fuel (10% methanol). The oil temperature at normal running temp is 215 F. The manufacturer calls for 0W20, but I have zero idea what the main bearing clearance is. Am I correct in assuming that 0W30 will be fine and likely, preferable to use, at least in the summer?
0w20 gets into and high up in the motor quickly,the gen 3 hemi likes this.
I rented a 300 Chrysler 5.7 in AZ, with 0w20 it knocked and ticked every morning, it was never below 90f. So local temps matter. 0w20 also returns to the pan faster than a 10w30.
Thanks for the insights!
We are glad it was helpful!
Great information 👍
Glad you liked it
It’s 110 degrees outside today. Summer is here. My car takes 5w30 but I’ve got some 10w30 I’d like to use up. I don’t think the 5w30 will get down to that 5 number anyway. Tell me the pros and cons of using the 10w30 this summer
No worries for summertime. Make sure the 10w30 is full synthetic, because the 5w30 is.
Yup, I agree with rickyscogin1008
My 5.0 f150 is recommended 5w-20 in the us and Canada, but is recommended 5w-30 in the Mexican version. My vehicle is higher mileage and vibrated a lot. I ran 0w-30 and most of the unusual vibrations went away. I now exclusively use 0w-30 or high quality 5w-30. Timing chain sounds a lot happier too 😂
fordteck manudko says to use 5-30
0-20 is shortening engine life, and makes engines consume oil, especially nowadays with pistonrings with less tension. That is me experience atleast. 5-30 is good choice for a normal passenger car.
Low tension rings do better with low viscosity oils.
The low tension rings can actually hydroplane over instead of scrape oil off the cylinder walls if the oil is too vicious.The fuel efficiency gains with low viscosity designed engines is not only lower pumping losses but also lower rings to cylinder friction because lower tension scraper rings are needed because of lower viscosity oil.
@@masterq2.033 Exactly.
@@masterq2.033No there’s really no evidence showing that
@@jtmartin8445hydroplane ???? Lmao. Agree ive never heard of that. Its not like engine oil versus gear oil. I believe running thicker oil will make engine last longer...
I could listen to Lake talk all day he is one of the smartest guys in the industry.
My old Fords oil pressure was a bit lacking having 565,000 miles and instead of raising the thickness of the oil I lowered the thermostat temp from 192 to 180 degrees and the oil pressure came back to the way it was...
Hey Lake Jr. I have a stock ford 4.6 3v in my Mustang and run 20-30 min hpde/time trial road courses. Oil temp usually settles at about 220 on cooler days and up to 235 on hot days. I've been running a 50/50 blend of FR20 and LS30. Should I continue with the blend or go straight 5/30 for my application?
That sounds like a good blend.
Awesome, thank you!@@TotalSeal
Please help this conundrum..... "hotter oil gets thinner"...as a general rule, yet for multi-grade oils like 5W-30.....the base oil is 5 weight to allow better flow at low temps, but with its viscisity improvers it acts like a heavier 30 weight oil when at higher operating temps. In this arguement, the oil is thicker as it warms. Can you offer guidance on this apparent contradiction..... for better understanding?
Watch this video: th-cam.com/video/48pviPLgaPQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=2PD023A8q9MJDFMN
@@TotalSeal ....I fully understand W is for "Winter" and not "Weight", but presenting the question this way helps for presenting the question. I viewed the details of the vid but it goes into arcane testing details and doesn't really address the core question. Let try this way---> a 5W-30 oil acts as a "5" ( lower viscosity) oil to help cold-weather flow....yet it acts as a "30" ( higher viscosity) oil, when warmed up...like a straight "30" oil...all done by using additives and viscosity improvers. A "30" oil will flow with more resistance through passages than a "5" oil.....like it was "thicker". Yet the common convention says oil get thinner when hotter. Can someone distill down the core thinking behind this ??????
Let's explain in a simple way. Oil thins out in higher temp, that's a fact. Imagine single grade oil at sae 5, it will have a viscosity of let's say 60cSt @ 40°C and 3cSt @ 100°C. Another single grade oil at sae 30 will have a visc of let's say 90cSt @ 40°C and 10cSt @ 100°C. The sae 5 oil is what you need during a cold start but at normal operating temp that oil will be too thin. In contrast, the sae 30 oil is too thick during cold start although it is at good visc for normal operating temp. This is where 5w30 multigrade oil comes in. It has sae 5 visc grade at low temp and has sae 30 visc grade at high temp i.e. 60cSt @ 40°C and 10cSt @ 100°C.
I rounded cSt values to nearest integers for easier understanding.
@@1_D333....I guess that is what I was angling for....a (say) 5W-30 is basically 5 weight "core" oil.....with lots of viscosity improvers to allow it to behave like a 30 weight when "warmed".
@@TheWilferchbut don't forget that oil gets thinner when temp raises. Now you can google "oil viscosity graph" where Y-axis is visc (cSt) n X-axis is temp. You'll notice what I mean. And multigrade oil is just a crossing line of two single grade oils which otherwise parallel to each other.
great vid guys, has anyone talked about oil film strength?? I think this is particularly relevant in ball bearing conrods and similar, like many motorbikes have. thx.
They ignore the most critical function of oil as usual...
With the typical low tension rings and or gdi engines, are you better to go up a grade?
Going up a grade with low tension oil rings can increase oil consumption.
@@TotalSeal My Kia with 0w20 was blowing through a qt. of oil in 300 miles, with 10w30 it went to 1000 miles. So I don't agree with a single upgrade to the second number being a problem. And I got rid of the Korean cars due to the many inherent issues...
Toyota states in their owners manual that a higher viscosity idk can be used in high load conditions. So you can use 5W-30 if car calls for 0W-20 without voiding the warranty.
Thanks for sharing!
For most drivers, use the oil weight recommended by the manufacturer. Use a high-quality synthetic, change it and the filter every 3,000 miles, drive gently, and a well-built vehicle will last a long, long time.
Changing synthetic oil at 3,000 is what morons do
The problem is my car has 200k miles and my oil gets very hot.. 218°f/103°c and I drive mainly city miles.. wouldn't I be better off running 0w40 at these temps?
I know many of the recommended weights by manufacturers are really thin for emissions and economy and in other countries they direct the owners of the same engines to run thicker oils so you need to really know what is best for your engine…
Oil weight aside, oil changes at 3k miles with modern oils, let alone full synthetic, is a complete waste of oil and money. Don’t do that. It certainly won’t hurt your engine, just your wallet. But, it won’t help either.
@@torchmd I was thinking on an Rv or heavy truck 3k is good (especially an RV, where it takes years to put 3k miles on it) but on a car maybe 5-6k…
While friction and wear are independent of each other it's possible to reduce friction (10~30%) while reducing wear (50~90%).
If boundary lubrication is maintained, by bonding a lubricant to internal parts, you can safely use lower viscosity oil without worrying that the lubricant film will break down.
Engine life can be extended by 2~10x
🙂 #XcelPlus
Wow, great info. Thanks for the video.
Glad it was helpful!
I Was Told I'm Over Thinking What Oil I Should Run. My Mains Said 30 And The Rods Said 40. The Machine Shop That Built My Short Block Said 20w50. I Said Why And They Said The Added Bearing Clearance. I Called Amsoil And It Was Literally The Same Thing. They Said Yea Run 40 Weight But If Machine Shop Said 50 Run 50. He Was Like, It's Not A Big Deal To Run Oil That's A Little More Viscous. I've Got A Little 3.8 V6 Turbo Engine FWD Auto That I Will Be Daily Driving Again. It The Little Details That Will Drive You Crazy.
If the loosest clearance was a 40 grade, then go with a 5W-40. Extra viscosity is extra heat.
20W 50 maybe, but unless you live in the desert, stay away from straight 50.
How does the choice of oil viscosity differ with different types of camshafts? What if the rules require a functional flat tappet hydraulic lifter vs a solid and or what about a hydraulic or solid roller? Do those differences also change the needs of the engine when it comes to viscosity?
Thanks for the question. The camshaft type does not effect the choice of viscosity. It’s all about bearing clearances and oil temperature.
@TotalSeal mate is ok the 0w40 use instead 5w30? Can damage the engine? Toyota 2zzge vvtli 1800cc 192hp 8.400rpm.
Cool to see the Olds head...
I had for now only old vehicles who accepted even the 15W-40 oil.
Two Diesels, both indirect injection ones, and two gasoline/LPG ones, a 1.0l 3 cylinder made from Daihatsu, and a 1.731cc I4 Volvo one.
In all four I use and used 5W-40.
With 5W-40 instead of 10 or worse 15W-40 I have less fuel consumption and less oil consumption.
Just to give some data, the indirect injection turbo car I had, had consumed 2l of oil in 6000km during a summer trip in Spain (starting from Italy) with the 15W-40.
Same km the next year with the 5W-40, it consumed something like 100cc.
The other Diesel was a 2.5l 70hp naturally aspirated from the early '80s, on an autocaravan, same story, with the 5W-40 less consumption of fuel and oil.
Do you have an opinion about motorcycle oil for a Harley Davidson V twins?
If i may ask ...
My motorcycle manufacturer recomends a 10w30 engine oil .... Is it okay if i switch to a 5w40 from a 10w30 ? .... Which one is better for protection in high rpm and high temperature ?
And is it okay to use car engine oil in a matic motorcycle ? .... Because as we know, they both use dry clutch.
Dear Lake, should I switch from manufacturer’s recommended 0W20 to 0w30 in Honda Accord 2012 4cyl engine for less engine wear and better engine protection? This car is my daily city driving vehicle in San Diego, CA with 200,000 miles on the odometer and usually 3K-5K oil change intervals with Mobil or Pennzoil. There are thousands of mechanics out there that tell users to stay away from SAE20 and other lower weight oil as the engine life is very much reduced because of using those. Please share your insight. Much appreciated!
In San Diego, you could probably use 5W-30, but we don’t recommend changing viscosity without doing used oil analysis before and after to know for certain if the viscosity change was beneficial.
@@TotalSeal Thank you so much, will do! God bless
I use Lucas Oil Stabilizer on every oil change on my 21 old Mazda Protege 5, takes 10W30 - 160k miles, no issues at all 🤞
Well i had 698,714 KM (434,160.8 miles) on a 1991 VW Turbo Diesel and never used any additives at all. My car was totaled by an a-hole, who ran a Red light. The engine had been still running great and never touched other than timing belt(s) and a couple glow plugs. I stuck to the 8000KM oil changes recommended by VW, drove 220-230 KM per day 5 days a week to work and back. Bought an '86 VW TD with the same engine to replace my totaled VW and put over 750,000KM on it before i retired. The '91 was bought new, the '86 had 229,000KM on it when i bought it.
@@KStewart-th4sk Old ones proofed to be a better quality... sorry to hear you had an accident and had to total the car, I would be mad as H.... I just replaced valve cover gasket on my 02 Mazda and engine is mirror clear, that Lucas additive does the job along with good quality oil.... I did had VW too previously, Jetta MK4 2.0, sold it under 200k miles, some few sensors needed to be replaced but was still running good.... Drive safe ✌️
Lake Speed Jr. With these glasses looks like a mad oil scientist! Lol Anybody has the bearing clearances of a 1ZZFBE, an EW10J4 and a Ford Vulcan?
LOL, if both engines are stock, then you can follow the viscosity recommendation as set forth by the engine manufacturer.
@@TotalSealThanks, So its 5w30 to 5w40 or 10w30 to 10w40
@@tomasnokechtesledger1786 It that case, go with the 5W-40. Great broad coverage viscosity grade.
@@TotalSeal great! Thanks.
This makes me think back to the 90s era, when NASCAR teams had Qualifying engines, then put in Race engine. People talked about, the engines ran really thin oil, etc, to get more HP to qualify faster, but won't survive a full race. Wonder what the backstory is there?
That is true. The qualifying engines would never last more than 200 miles with oil that thin.
Thank you for 60FPS
Lake jr./ can you help me, I drive my 2016 f 150 5.0 v8 only in the summers in Minn. And park it in the winters. I only start it in the winter in my garage twice to 3 times a month, 5 - 10 min. Just to lube the internal parts. Would using 0-20 be ok to use only to get the oil to internals faster at start up, and I use 5-30 Pennzoil ultra platinum in summer. Please let me know your thoughts, love your oil videos. THANKS!!
Amsoil 5W30 100% synthetic
🔔👍
I run the Ford Fox police oil to water heat exchanger that connects in the return heater hose and installs under my oil filter. It stabilizes the temp around 210*f, I think. 10w30 Mobil1.
That always seemed like a good idea.
The trucks hook it to the cold radiator hose.
Our 2018 F150…5.0 with plasma cylinder walls used 1qt of 5w-20 semi synthetic Motorcrafter oil every 3000 miles and went thru 2 Ford authorized oil consumption tests. At 20,000 miles I changed to 5w-30 Motorcraft semi synthetic oil and the consumption problem was gone. I now have 45,000 miles on the engine ant it might use a cup in 3K miles. I change oil every 4-5 k miles or yearly if I don’t drive it much…
Thanks for sharing
Great video guys I’ve seen this stuff happen before myself and seen it talked about not this in depth tho I’ve seen most of it from high oil temps to lots of blow by from boost or ethanol use especially if it’s pig rich I find these people that say stick to oem manufactures hilariously full of themselves thinking they already know everything having an open mind is the only way to learn oem manufactures actually recommend different specs in different kind of uses or conditions mostly not on the manual in the glove box but if you do research on their web sites or some even have posters at the parts department stating it Subaru for one I can literally get a picture tomorrow from Subaru in surprise in phx az stating it being ignorant and using it to try and discredit professionals that work hard day in day out to get they’re knowledge is my biggest pet peeve of anyone actual red this looong as paragraph god bless your family’s 😊
I'm pretty new to investigating the best oils to maintain the engine I have so that it will outlast me and I'm curious; where can I find the main bearing clearance spec for my vehicle? I can't seem to find numbers by basic internet search for my 2020 GLC43
Thank you Again MOG! WITHOUT correct lubrication and filtering correctly your doomed to fail. Like the old TV commercial you pay me now! Or pay alot more later it never pays to cut corners on lubrication. Do have a resource for someone who is good with ignition upgrades? I wa t to go distriborless on a 5.9 magnum using LS1 GM ignition coils an you make a recommendation please.
I’m not sure who to recommend for that.
We need Charlie from it's always sunny in Philippines in this video.
I was looking for info on switching between a 30 and 40 weight oil but this video is on the extreme ends of oil weight.
Thanks for the tip.
You bet!
I would like to know what's the deal with 5W-40 oil and why it's so rare to find anyone recommending or using it
It's a guess from my car's manual but there is a chart that says "if you drive at temperatures from X to Y and use high quality oil this viscosity"
So I chose 5W-40 because it does get cold here but it has become really hot here recently and it's an older engine
I am no expert but I think it's the best oil for most older engines that are still running really well. The previous owner was using conventional 10w30 and I switched to a full synthetic 5w40 so it's gonna be better no matter what and the fuel consumption stayed the same
Thank you for this valuable information !
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the awesome info! I always seem to be thinking about running thicker oil in my car. It's just a toyota v6 that i don't drive hard but I would love to try 15w 40 oil in the summer when I do long trips. Never thought about the piston ring tension. I can't seem to get myself to try anything other than the 5W 30 my manual says but this was a fun thought experiment for me. Looking forward to learning more from you guys!
I'm a big fan of 15-40 and use it in a lot of my engines and customers engines. I shy away from it in modern cars with variable cam timing stuff, some of them seem to be pretty sensitive to oils. While there might be better options, you typically won't go wrong with using what the manual says.
@@DonziGT230 "...you typically won't go wrong with using what the manual says." Yup. Could have been a single-sentence video.
Where can i get one of those charts?
I would like to learn more about the zinc in Driven motor oils.
It can damage the catalytic converter, so I've read. High zinc is for older cars...
@@lonniebeal6032 I’ve completely read otherwise when done correctly like in Driven Oils.
I have a 2008 c63 and the manual recommends 0w40 or 5w40. I have been running 5w49 because people say the 5w is better to prevent lifter tick at startup. Is this what you would go with?
As long as the outside temperature is above -10F, the 5W-40 is fine. For driving in colder weather, the 0W-40 is better.
Try Lucas Oil Stabilizer as an additive...
The 0w isn't oil weight the 40 is. The 0w is resistance on cold 0w flows better than 5w in all climates
@@DimoS... resistance to flow is viscosity..... both numbers are weights. 0w40 flows faster than 5w40 at cold temperatures (cold engine start) but has the same viscosity at operating temp (212 degrees F).
@@DimoS... The word weight has been used since the multigrades came out, it's just a synonym for Winter.
I thought I heard that variable cam timing was controlled by oil pressure so changing the viscosity could affect Cam timing negatively. I do use thinker gear oils for my truck the the manufacture says to as I know they want better MPG with the thinner oils. I would rather have more protection.
My car calls for 0w20 but i live in az where as now temperatures stays around 90-100 and later on summer we usually reach 120 so i use 5w30 it is ok? Or should i go back to 0w20?
0w20 oil could have something to do with variable valve timing, I think.
I once visited Phoenix. AZ during a summer week when it was a 108-degree Fahrenheit temperature. In a newer engine, I would stick with 0W-20 regardless of the outside temperatures.Once you get to 75,000 miles, you can use 5W-30 oil full synthetic.
If your owners manual gives you options, 10w30. If you have a warranty and the owners manual only says 0w20, I'd use Redline group IV 0w20 for the POE base and high anti-wear additive package. Just my opinion. I rented a Chrysler 300 Hemi in AZ 2 years ago, on start up it knocked, clattered and did it every morning. Oil cap said 0w20, it was fairly new car, low miles. 0w20 is crap over 35c, it returns to the oil pan too fast.
@@patrickhenry2845 I don't agree. Your car runs hotter when the outside temperature is higher. Every online viscosity chart says 0w20 is no good over 30 or 35c. My cars are under aftermarket warranties, I run 10w30 in the summer, I have receipts for 0w20 that's required year around. Not having any problems.
Here's my advice and take: Use what's recommended by the manufacturer of your vehicle (it's been durablity tested with that) and change your oil frequently. No additives necessary! Just good motor oil!
Right on!
I would add a caveat: Use what the ROW oil recommendation is in your vehicle manual, not the US recommendation. Example: My Toyota 1UR-FE in my GX460 says "0w-20 no matter what!" in my US manual. However, in the manual for Japan, AE, SA, France, Spain, every Africa Country, South America, etc it gives a range for viscosities and does not rec 0w-20 on the oil use chart for anything over 90F. Except I live in Texas and we go weeks at a time where it won't go below that *at night*, with days close to 110. What do these other manuals (that literally all are identical) say? They recommend 5w-30 syn for my vehicle for that temp range, with 0w-40/5w-40 if I am towing or otherwise doing "heady duty" things. SO, I use Castrol Edge Ti Syn or Pennzoil Ultra Plat 5w-30 and my oil consumption went from on quart per 5k OCI to literally zero. Nothing. MPG's are up slightly, engine runs much smoother (even at 17F).
My point being, the US manual was written by bean counters. The ROW manuals were written by engineers. I trust the engineers.
@@DBravo29er you are right on, same for my Mazda 3. In US says 0w20 but Mexico, etc, 5w30. The only thing is would say is that the US manual is written to meet EPA and mileage reasons.
@@amycyclenut Yep. And let's be honest, the car isn't going to "fall apart" under 100k miles with 0w-20. BUT, it will be in far worse shape and probably burning oil with needlessly high cam wear. That's just science.
For people who don't keep cars longer than 100k miles, WGAF, right? But I keep my vehicles for at least 200k. At least.
My 5.0 f150 is recommended 5w-20 in the us and Canada, but is recommended 5w-30 in the Mexican version. My vehicle is higher mileage and vibrated a lot. I ran 0w-30 and most of the unusual vibrations went away. I now exclusively use 0w-30 or high quality 5w-30. Timing chain sounds a lot happier too 😂
I would love to see you guys build an engine and run it 500K mile on a Dyno with different visocisity oils repeatedly and weight and measure every part before you assemble the engine then after. Use a calibrated anylitcal scale to measure every part before and after. This way we can see how the chain wears, lifters wear, cams wear, bearings wear with each oil. Check for chain stretch etc.....
I wish we could do that as well.
One thing I've never heard anybody mention is it all or cool gasoline engines have a thermostat that usually 195 to 200 degrees. This means the engine runs the same temperature all the time no matter if it's 48° outside or 100° outside . So it should make no difference the outside temperature as far as the oil is concern.
Great video! But now I have questions! Thank you very much, so I have a BBC 454 jet drive stock 91 octaine from 47 to 5200 RPM OIl pressure hot is 60 and a bit over 100PSI ta max RPM I am using 20/50 Valoline High zinc on a 300 hour motor. Should I hit the danger zone and change to a thiner oil?
Thanks for the feedback. The VR1 20W-50 is a great oil!
Very informative.👍
Thanks!
'19 Tundra with 5.7L, it calls for 0w20, can i bump to 5w20 or 5w30 for the summertime here in in texas?
Yes. Some of the first 5.7 manuals specs all the way to 20w-50 depending on operating temps.
I would have liked to listen to the guest!
Is there an oil that maintains a stable viscosity regardless of the temperature?
My vehicle is 21 years old now, use what the manual says. 5w30. It recommends 0w30 or synthetic 5w30 if it gets below a certain temp in the winter, so I just use synthetic 5w30 year round. Used 0w30 one time, just wasn't impressed much by it or it's higher price.
I have some questions about which oil to use in new race motor. I was recommended to use Driven oils but am getting a couple of mixed messages as to which one will suit the motor best. Is there any way of contacting you directly to get your thoughts?
Call the folks at Driven.
@@TotalSeal I'm in Australia and while that's not too much of a problem, part of my question has to do with info from my machinist/engine builder AND an Oil Rep at Driven. Both recommended a different Driven oil product so I'm not quite sure which advice to follow.
@@333pg333 What's your application? Which products are both recommending?
@@TotalSeal It's a highly modified alu block Porsche 968 turbo engine for Time Attack that runs on race grade E85 only. It has been sleeved with Darton MiD sleeves which are a thick ductile iron product. The engine builder and machinist (who installed the sleeves) gave me a chart for the XP6 line of oils. Based on clearances you select which weight to go for. But when I contacted Joe Gibbs oils one of their Reps said this: “I chose the GP-1 15W-40 for a couple of reasons. The 15W-40 is a better fit for your main bearing clearance, your front and rear bearings were a bit tighter than the rest, but I would recommend going to the heavy side in line with the centre mains. I did not consider the XP for your application because the XP has very little detergent and virtually no corrosion protection package. XPs are formulated for applications that are disassembled and inspected after every event.” When I looked at what type of cars GP-1 was recommended for it ranges across quite a few different purposes. From racecars to street rods. Whereas it looks like the XP-6 is for drag type applications where the motors are torn down after each event. Do you think I'm reading this correctly? ps...thanks for even responding. Much appreciated. Oh ps..before this motor was sleeved we used to run a 60w oil so I get nervous when seeing people recommend 40w product. But I don't know what the clearances were for the last iteration prior to sleeving.
@@333pg333 Go with the GP-1, but use the 20W-50 instead of the 15W-40.