Engine Oil Codes Explained, SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) numbers - Oil Viscosity Explained
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 เม.ย. 2016
- Get a GREAT UNDERSTANDING of Multigrade Oil Codes, with this Unique Effortless Explanation.
The designations 0W, 20, 30, 5W30, 5W40, 10W30, 10W40, 15W40, and SEA30 stand for various motor oil grades and kinds used in internal combustion engines. Choosing the proper oil for your engine is crucial for both the longevity and proper running of your engine. Each of these codes and designations represents significant oil qualities. An expanded description of these codes and their significance is provided below:
Grades of viscosity, such as 0W, 20, 30, 5W30, 5W40, 10W30, 10W40, and 15W40: The vital characteristic of motor oil that shows its flow resistance is its viscosity. The viscosity of the oil at various temperatures is represented by the numbers in these codes. The "W" stands for winter, and the number that comes before it (for example, 0W or 5W) denotes the oil's cold-start viscosity, which is essential for starting an engine in cold weather. The oil flows better in cold temperatures the lower the number. The viscosity of the oil at working temperatures is indicated by the number following the "W" (for example, 30, 40). The oil is thicker at high temperatures, the higher the number.
It is crucial to select the optimum viscosity grade so that the oil flows smoothly under all circumstances and properly lubricates the engine's parts.
Engine Types (Gasoline vs. Diesel): The needs for motor oil vary depending on the engine type. Due to differences in the combustion processes, operating temperatures, and engine components, petrol engines and diesel engines each have their own special requirements. The incorrect oil can lead to insufficient lubrication and possible engine damage. In contrast to diesel engine oil, which is frequently referred to as "Turbo Diesel" or "Heavy-Duty Diesel," petrol engine oil is specifically manufactured to satisfy the needs of petrol engines.
There are several grades and formulas of motor oil within each type of engine oil. The American Petroleum Institute (API) and the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), for example, have established a number of performance standards and requirements that are used to define these classes. These grades guarantee that the oil satisfies specific performance and quality standards. One such classification is SAE 30, which designates a single-grade oil suitable for particular engine types.
An essential component of engine maintenance is changing the oil. Your engine will get the essential lubrication and protection it needs to run effectively if you choose the right oil type and grade. For information on the proper engine oil specifications for your particular engine, you must either check the manual for your car or a professional. Selecting the incorrect oil can result in engine wear, decreased performance, and even expensive repairs.
Many thanks indeed
Craig Kirkman (Owner and Creator of the 'The Repair Specialist' Channel)
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BEFORE COMMENTING - Gets thicker when hotter? Really? Please can I just ask before any more comments regarding this question come in, that you please look at this video that I made explaining further what I meant when I said this. This explains in much more detail and hopefully will satisfy your desire to know more. Here it is. Thank you. Craig: : th-cam.com/video/Tck6JU-KZgQ/w-d-xo.html
7p!
P
All these years and I never understood this. This video simplifies it.
It would be better if background music was turned off
The fact that oil is engineered to be LESS Viscous when colder is incredible. Thank goodness for whoever came up with that
The simplest explanation on viscosity I have ever received
As an engineer i state these about oils:
The second number (the working number) is the most important as that defines it's viscosity near working temperature. This relates to the oil pressure and bearing clearances.. better clearances may use a thinner oil as it is not spewed right out of the bearing. If bearing journals are worn and inherently the oil pressure goes low you might want to go for a higher second number to grab a bit more life before total rebuild. It will be thicker at work temperature and will have increased pressure than the thinner oil.. but because of the wear.. the pressure will be about the same with the thicker oil. The problem is not solved fully because different parts wear different.. so while boosting pressure for crank journals, valve guides may be starved of oil because it's too thick, or turbo bearing that is still in parameters needs a thin oil.. so the thicker oil for a worn engine does not solve issues and it may create more issues if you skip too many numbers.
The first number represent mostly the viscosity dependency with temperature. The lower W number, the more stable viscosity with temperature the oil has. So lets assume a monograde SAE30 oil (for agriculture tractors etc).. it has a set cP viscosity chart depending of temperature. That chart is quite steep.. very viscous at low temperature and adequate for running at 100deg.
Hypothetically there is a monograde oil SAE5 that has the same steep curve of dependacy but it has reasonable viscosity at low temperatures and way to thin at 100deg (as thin that it gets a 5 rating compared to 30-40 usually for engines).
The 5W30 is the multigrade oil that performa at cool as the monograde 5w and at hot as the monograde 30.
So in any case, for engine oil.. a 0W30 might be the best you can buy and most recommended.. because its viscosity gradient with temperature is very flat.. almost constant.. same viscosity at cold or hot.. the higher the first number is, the less flat that curve is and more depended with temperature until you reach the monograde SAE30.
The points of concern for using a very thin oil at cold .. so lets say your manufactures say to put 10W40.. you definitely can opt for 0W40.. better, more stable viscosity with temperature, no harm done, same viscosity at running temperature. The caveats for this are the price (is way more expensive 0W40 than 10W40), and the shortcuts and bad additives added that may be just for flattening the viscosity with temperature but having all kind of side-effects worsening other characteristics.. so putting 0W40 when is not needed may not be economical and from some aspects may not perform better.
The best thing to do for an engine: check the manual (and find the manufacturer recommends from 5W40 to 15W40 in hot areas and from 0w30 to 10w30 in cold areas).. living in a hot area you put the best 5w40 it was recommended. Check the manual further and see it recommends to comply with BMW LL-01 oils standard. Check carefully on the label and your oil should state a list of car manufacturer standards.. make sure your needed standard is on that label!!! this is a set of key parameter an oil has to meet in order to pass the standard (so it may state to have certain additive, certain concentration of different stuffs, etc) - this is the most important thing!
Another quite loose criteria could by API rating.. S for spark (gasoline engines), and C for compression (diesel engines). The second letter is ranging from A to N depending of it's quality and better properties.. the higher the letter, the better properties of lubing it has (better friction reduction, better onctuosity, better flash point, better..etc). Now SA is from the 20's i guess.. so you get today SM, SN, or CF, CI (diesel engines are heavily loaded.. and only qualifies for a lower letter standard).
Another thing VERY important in choosing the right oil: If the engine oil is used in more the one place, take great care to satisfy all recommended instructions (viscosity rating SAE, and manufacturer standard, also the API and ACEA ratings to be fulfilled), because some engines use the engine oil for actuating variable valve lift and timing, and in such applications, viscosity and other properties must be the same because the hydraulic distributors were designed with a certain oil in mind to work.. make sure you put the right one. Also in motorcycles, most of them use the engine oil for the wet clutch.. so you don't want to slip.. so usually in motorcycles it's a compromise.. a worse enough oil so the clutch wont slip.. a good enough oil to prevent wear of the engine.. in reality is neither of those.. and recommend an SJ api rating (very old rating.. a bad enough oil that still lubes something).
I could write books about oils.. but wait... I already did.
Very good analysis & sharing of knowledge by u AsiAzzy. Thank u brother keep it up😎
notice the video fails to explain how multi grade oils come about as compared to a monograde type. multi grade oils start as thin oils to which polymers and other additives are added to resist thinning out at higher temperatures. when I worked in sales at an oil company no one could explain how long these additives would last in order to protect at higher engine temperatures. it was important to use multi grade oils in cold climate areas, but in Florida and other warmer climate states, I would not recommend a very low wintergrade oil.
So in a very cold weather what oil should i use?
Hello AsyAzzy. Thanks for sharing.
Please correct me if I got wrong...
A 10w60 is thicker than a 10w40 at i.e. 20°C and it keeps its at engine working °T.
Also, it has chemical polymers for keeping it's thickness in cold weather when engine is not working (the lowest the first number the lowest the °T it's able to keep its thickness.
I'll be waiting for your comments.
Thank you for your time and patience.
After reading all the comments and read again your...
You wrote having a 0w30 is like having a monograde 0 and a monograde 30 (assuming 30 is thicker than 0). Then you wrote the lower the multigrade first number the less the thickness variation (understanding the less the °T it gets thicker until it freez).
So, I don't know if multigrade oil gets thicker while the °T warms up (1) or if the first and second numbers of multigrade oil are measured in different scales (below 0° and at 100°) and the numbers are just references being impossible compare the first with the second having in mind that the hotter the oil the thinner it gets (2).
Watched at least 10 videos on the subject and your is by far the best (and pretty much the shortest). Good entry-level explanation - thank you.
Great video, can't understand why people would thumbs down someone for educating them!
Sophie333C thank you, I really appreciate your comment. Thanks again.
Because they're democrats. They don't like the truth.
GRJCLyon, HAHAHAHAHA!!!
Those uneducated bas@$*/s
Half the thumbs down are by accident and the other half are by kids using their parents phone and not interested in the video.. the other half are from people who don't agree with what is said and the rest of the thumbs down are from douche bags..
I can't tell you how much I appreciate the time you spent on your explanation here!
I've asked countless car accessory store staff about this over the years and not one of them knew the answer.
I'm off to show my kids this so they know for future reference.
You are a legend!
Awesome, finally an excellent way to explain for me an non-mechanic! Thank you for sharing your thoughts and wisdom with us!
This video finally demystifies everything about engine oil. Thanks for sharing!
I’m studying to become a archipelago Captain here in Sweden. And we have a test coming up in our machine class. This helped me alot. Thank you very much. You just earned yourself a sub! ⚓️
Lovely simple straightforward explanation. A great job mate well done
Great video. One thing you did not mention is the temperature that the cold or "W" part of the oil is tested at. Unlike the second number that is tested at 100 degrees C, the cold number (W number) is generally tested at -35 or -40 degrees C. In other words, VERY cold temperatures. Far colder than most will encounter. With that said it is important to remember that while both numbers on a multi-grade oil such as 0W-40 are tested to SAE standards, they are tested at very different temperatures meaning they are not exactly on the same scale. Using the 0W-40 as an example, one may think that as the engine heats up to 100 degrees C, the oil actually thickens as you are going from a 0W to a 40. This is not the case as the two grade numbers cannot be directly compared as they were created using different baseline temperatures. Therefore, the oil is actually getting thinner as the car warms up to 100 degrees C and reaches its 40 rating. This can be likened to comparing Celsius and Fahrenheit. Just because 60 degrees Fahrenheit is a higher number than 20 degrees Celsius does not mean it is warmer. In this case, 20 degrees Celsius is warmer than 60 degrees Fahrenheit, despite the representing number being lower.
thak you ✌
Hi so what is the actual weight of an oil is it a 0 or a 40 im still not understanding that part
Interesting
@@slicktmi he means that you could have an oil such as 0w-9999 and it could be theoretically be thicker at lower temperatures due to the testing differences at each temperature. That’s how i understand it.
Thank you so much! been reading endless none-sense on the internet and your video made it very clear and easy to understand! Simple is best!
Thanks man. People like you make life easier and worth living.
This is the best explanation of this topic I have ever heard, concise but easy to understand.
Awesome explanation. You're an engineer with good teaching skills.
Best oil vid on youtube simple and easy to understand.
Actually
As a mechanical engineer it help me a lot. Thank you🙏🙏🙏
I'm so glad that you shared your knowledge. Thank you for sharing
I have a repair shop and my mechanics were having a really hard time in understanding oil configuration numbers. This video solved our problems, very well explained! Thank you very much for sharing it.
Hands down best explanation on TH-cam. I was trying to explain to my 10 year old the reasons for the numbers and was unsuccessful. This video cleared it up. Simplified so a 10 year old and his dad get the point and gain some knowledge.
Thank you so much! I was trying to read about the subject and just about fell asleep! You’re a life saver
5w-50 thanks to the great personality who cleared all the doubts about oils 😀
Sir you changed my world!!! 😐
I was always confused buying my oil for bike. after trying several times, as I usually learn the hard way, I sticked to 10-40. it suits me well and give me great acceleration and top speed.
many many thanks and respect from Pakistan!😘😘😘
triple nipples that's YOU!!! useless people where only sitting on your teleFCKINvision all day long!!!!
Sultan Mehmood Ghaznavi oil doesn't give you a top speed
Thank you so much for making this video. Im 39 and ive always thought 5 was the hot viscosity and 30 when cold. It just made sense so i never questioned it. But now that you explained it it actually made no sense to have an oil thin out at higher temps but actually get thicker. Pretty cool how they can make it act that way. Very helpfull video👍
Even I could understand it; one of the best explanations I've heard. Many thanks!
This video is the most logical explanation I'm searching for.
Downloaded the video. Very useful explanation of SAE purposes code. Thank you for sharing!!!
I found this the best one explaining about engine oil grades yet. You cleared my concept. But please use a dedicated mic for clear voice. Thank you!
Again, simply explained and not full of jargon....thanks
Great explanation! I hope you are a professor or motivate some to explain that way!! Thanks a lot for saving us time!
best explanation , love the ac"cent ,thank you,.cheers
Excellent explanations, thankyou for sharing. 👋 🇦🇺
wow .. after ruining though so MANY of others explanations of how to explain the oil code properly.. YOUR video explains it the MOST Simplistically and properly..THANKS !
This is such a great vid mate! Really simple and easy to understand. Love the drawings and it’s explained perfectly 👍
Thank you so much for your nice feedback. It's comments like yours that motivate me to continue making these videos. Craig 😀👍
The test performed at 100C uses a smaller diameter hole than the test cold. 5W-30 is NOT thinner at colder temperatures than at hotter temps, but it IS thinner than standard SAE 30 at cold temperatures. So many people get these figures wrong because they assume the two testings are equal. When testing oils at cold temperatures if you were to use the same sized hole, the viscosity would measure much higher. Single viscosity oils have a linear slope to their density/viscosity as temperature rises. Multigrade oils have a curved slope, changing viscosity sooner at a lower temperature. The first number is lower simply because the orifice used is larger.
@robert franqui cool story bro.
In a 5w-30 does the oil gets thicker (or sae value increases >30) when its above 100 deg cel in scorching summer weather?
No, as the oil heats up it's viscosity decreases. a 0w-30 will have roughly the same viscosity as a 10w-30 at 100° C
Viscosity is a standard scientific measurement, it is not about the size of hole but depends on the viscometer itself.
@@JosephDika-wz7yb The first number is not the oil viscosity when cold, it is the number that reflects the oil dependency on temperature changes. The more the viscosity changes with temp, the higher the number.
good well put together vid many thanks
Thanks for making this video, it's very straightforward and makes it easy to understand the oil codes.
This is the only video you need to watch on this topic .
I watch this every night before i go to sleep
matt antunovic why 😂 you can see just one to learn about the story .
@@TECHNICALIQ its so boring it puts me to sleep
It's important to understand that the SAE number (30 or 5w) IS A STANDARD, NOT A MEASUREMENT. The car makers talk to the SAE people and come up with a number that corresponds to a safe range of viscosity for the kind of engines they want to sell. Oil companies put the SAE numbers on the bottle and are protected from lawsuits by the fact that any car that specifies that SAE number must be compatible with that kind of oil otherwise it's the manufacturer's fault, not the oil. On the other hand car companies are protected because if an oil company has a bad batch, ruins cars and the oil tests to be outside of that range, everyone knows it's the oil's fault, not the engine.
So the SAE numbers only loosely correspond to viscosity; an SAE20 oil will not necessarily be half as thick as an SAE40 oil. The fact that the number corresponds roughly to viscosity is just so that the standard makes some sense when you read it (although it still continues to confuse EVERYONE).
For one, motor oil does NOT become thinner as it cools. It always becomes thicker. The increase in thickness is just not as much for oils with a low w-number.
If we're allowed to play the same game as the SAE, then let's at least come up with a way to interpret these numbers intuitively that doesn't lead people to the wrong conclusions. It makes intuitive sense to see the w-number as how much the viscosity increases at cold temperatures.
So a 10w-30 oil would be 30 when hot, but 30+10 or 40 when cold. 5w-20 would be 25 when cold. 20w-50 would be 70 when cold. 0w-40 would still be 40 when cold.
This is not strictly correct but it's conceptually adequate to explain how the numbers relate to the viscosity of the oil.
As for cold starts, my experience is that it's the quality of the oil, not the viscosity that determines cold start behavior. I have had a car start fine with 15w-30 in the winter. Put in a 15w-30 from a different company, and then you would have problems. In other cases I found it was because my starter was going out, or my battery was going out, and it had nothing to do with the oil. I live in a hot climate, so 15w in the winter is not a problem except for certain brands.
Car oil pumps are constant displacement pumps, which means they will pump a constant flow of oil, even if that oil has the consistency of a slushie. The problem is not that the oil gets too thick to be pumped. It's that solid oil does not flow into the gap left when the pickup tube sucks up the slug of oil it's sitting in. Then it just sucks up air.
I had no idea. Actually, I always thought it was the other way around. Thank you for enlightening me!
I learned a lot about Engine Oil today thank you for teaching me something brand new that I never even knew before thanks bud
One of the best videos on oil codes. Thank you very much for making it so easy to understand.
Wow, its comments like yours that motivate me to continue making these videos. Thanks you for your positive feedback.
akbaxb165 iii
Thanks for posting
Ibnul Hossain, I really appreciate your feedback, that you
Fish oil..hehe
The clearest explanation I have found on TH-cam. Thanks
Andrew Morris thank you
Nice clear and concise explanation of multi grade oils. Thanks!
This is such a clear explanation. thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you so much for giving me your positive comment. You have helped keep me motivated. Thanks
TheRepairSpecialist .
clear and concise. No waffle .
Just in case you were wondering, SAE: Society of Automotive Engineers Standard.
Best video on explaining engine oil numbers. Thanks a lot. I now truly understand.
Thanks very clear, best part, no distracting music blasting out.
very well explained, so easy to understand
Hi, thank you for taking the time to give me your positive feedback. I really do appreciate it. Thanks again.
thanks
The best explanation I’ve ever heard. Thank you for sharing this sir. Regards from Perth WA.
I’ve wondered about this for a long time, now I get it! Thanks v much
dont race or rev your engine in the first 3 to 5 minutes.let it run slow untill it gets warm
ijaz Khan especially in low powered engines.
I tried to race my engine but it won.
Try to tell that to Harley riders
Why bro?
kaun se jamane se ho bhai ??
Glad I was buzzin when I watched this. You lost me at "I just wanna give a quick explanation".....🤤
I love this!!! I have never had engine oil specifications so simply explained.
This is one of the most useful videos I've ever seen!! Thanks!!
thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge, it is very helpful indeed. stay blessed
SK J. Thank you so much for your nice feedback. I really do appreciate it.
the way I understand it, from owning old oil burners dating back to the 70,s that a 20w 50 oil, because its heavier in viscosity therefore when it gets hot it wont thin out as much as a lighter weight oil, therefore it wont burn off as quickly as a lighter weight oil so good for older engines that the oil rings are shot ,and the motor is on the way out ,or in need of a rebuild , but not suitable for modern cars, which some of them require fully synthetic light weight oils to even start .
GrooberNedJardine - yea my g35 had to get a new motor cz of that.
GrooberNedJardine so i can used the 20w 50 for my 00 5.7 vortec 350 with 177k on it?
GrooberNedJardine when the time gets cold it would get thick and takes a Lil longer to go around in engine what would u recmomend for a 1G marks engine in an tropical island?
try 10-40 first and see how that works . basically u should run as thin a oil as works to make your engine run well and not use oil .
@@jameslee2105 20/50 was the first of the Multigrade oils. Brought out in the 1960's to replace the Straight 30 summer oil and 10 winter oil. no additives, and no detergent in straight oils! The result was more carbon build up and the engines have to be de coked. How many youngsters have heard THAT term before? I run two 75 year old Dodges with flat head straight six side valves. Both engines were originally built for Straight oils, and by modern standards have a low compression and high capacity, as such for nearly a 4 litre engine only rated at 57hp. I now use a semi synthetic 20/50, it holds pressure better at high temprature, especially on a long drive, keeps the engine cleaner, the detergent again, is more stable for longer periods, and due to an increase in engine effeciency, along with modern fuel, they will run on anything better than 78 Octane, just, gives better horse power. Oil does more than lubricate, it cleans and helps regulate running temprature. Modern oils allow much closer parts tolereance and there fore more power for smaller capacity.
I enjoyed the video. It was very informative and saved me a lot of time looking at this text book. The 5 min breakdown was really helpful. thank you. appreciated every second
mate thank you very much for grate explanation, i have put in my car 5w40 but dealer recommended 5w30 i was worry but after saw your video now know much more, thank you
I’ve been driving for 30 years and I’ve never put the recommended oil for my car,
I just pick up the cheapest one I can find and put it in and I’ve never had a problem...
So an easer way to see it 5w-30 it is 5 viscous when cold and 30 vicious when warm I think?
Impossible . When temperature increases viscosity decreases becaue it becomes thinner.
When density reduces viscosity will increase.
5w means on -18°c oil viscosity 30 means on 100°c oil viscosity.
Wow! 😊 Brilliant! The most comprehensive, yet concise video explaination of engine oil viscosity that I have watched. Much Obliged 😊
Explained very clearly and made sense. Thank-you. I appreciate you making this video.
well yes infact the "w" does stand for winter. sae 30 oil has a viscosity of 30 hot or cold. "seasonal equipment" also includes snow blowers and I'm confident they also take sae30.
very good video by the way. I hope eventually people will realize that engineers are working really hard to get the right oil weight when designing their vehicle. but all that information is in the owner manual, which nobody reads
chris keiley, thank you so much for your comment. I really am grateful. Cheers
I would hate to start my snowblower at 0f with straight 30 weight oil, it would take a lot of turning over. I think I will stick to 10w 30. In my vehicles I have used 5w 30 synthetic at 0f for easier starting, it makes a difference and worth the cost IMHO.
quick question, almost all new Japanese cars run on 0w-20 these days as they are trying to push fuel economy and shorten warm up times etc. The manufacturers say they use 0w-20 so the cars have 0 warm up time. I find this hard to believe because regardless of how thin the oil is, surely it still needs a few moments to circulate and coat all the parts properly. Is it really possible to have no additional wear by using a very thin oil?
Hi, as you said, they use these oils to help lubricate the engine more efficiently from a cold start. As for the Japanese manufacturers in question, well they must have conducted some of their own tests on these oils with there products. I imagine they have data showing reduced wear but like anything else we don't know for definite because we don't have their data to verify this. It is, however, well known that an oil with a low cold viscosity, such as 0w 20, will get to the engine parts quicker when first starting. But to answer your question directly, I would say that it would reduce wear, but I can't say just how much exactly. I hope this helps a little. Thanks
Hello, thanks for the lengthy and detailed response :)
TheRepairSpecialist
I didn't even watch the whole video and I love how you explained it. I'll have to watch it a few more times to have it fully embedded in my head but I do understand.
I think it'll have less wear at start-up and more wear at temperature. So which is worse?
TheRepairSpecialist i
i think the explanation is so simple and straight forward, well done sir.
BEST EXPLANATION I HAVE HEARD. NOW I UNDERSTAND.
Nice video. I have a question. I always wondered if the 5 and the 30 are on the same scale? It is just difficult to digest that when it is always easier to change the oil on a warmer engine as it flows better. So 5 and 30 are on the same scale? or each temperature has its own scale?
Yes so why does it drain quicker when warm?
@@darrenmicklewright2008 If it acts like 5 when cold and 30 when it gets warm. And the higher the number the higher the viscosity, then is it thinner when cold? Or the 5 and the 30 are on 2 different scales?
So, what you're saying is that the engine oil gets thicker when its cold?
up
Super simple and straightforward explanation. Thanks!!
Thank you for the time taken to make this very informative video. Very straight forward and easy to understand.
Thank you for giving me this positive feedback. I really appreciate it. Thanks again
I tried to tell people that W on the 5w means winter. No one believes me even in college.
Jason Patrick the W does mean winter and suitable for WINTER use. you are correct pal
crazy tony, brilliant, thank you for your post.
Jason Patrick LOL and they say college guys should have more culture
Jason - don't fret. If motorists in this country REALLY payed attention to motor oil and engine life, the car companies would loose sales of new cars.
hahaha! just like that 10k recommended oil change right! so damn brain washed, no common sense.
what oil would u recommend for my racing mower
olive oil
Julius Bond fucking Good one!!!😂😂😂 lmao
coconut oil have electrolytes in it give you rapid acceleration
Brad E. Wortman Wesson!
Hair Oil!
The lawnmower diagram was heartfelt, Thank you sir.
This is one of the most useful engine oil grad video, many thanks!
Saleh Al Ateyah, thank you for your positive comment. I really appreciate it
Actually, multi-viscosity oils are low viscosity oils with chemical polymers added to make a thin oil act like a thicker oil. Think of the polymers as chemical ball bearings. The higher the big number, the more polymers are added. Hence, on a 10W-40 oil, you're actually using a 10W oil that acts like a 40 weight oil when it warms up. This is good with a 4 stroke engine. But with a Detroit Diesel 2 stroke engine (the old 53, 71, 92, 149 and Locomotive EMD 567, 647, 710 Series), 2 stroke Diesels do not relax-they are firing every time. Hence, the polymers are always being squished down and never given a chance to relax back to their chemical size. With a 2 stroke Diesel, the polymers squish down and then you have an engine running on straight 10W. This is why 2 stroke Diesels are required to run on straight SAE30, 40 or 50 weight. Hope this helps.
Tom Christman, fantastic explanation, thank you so much.
Hello Tom.
So... A 10w40 would be thinner than a 20w40 (both at 20°C) and increasing to 100°C (mostly working °T) both would get the same thickness?
Also, lowering the °T, the 20w40 would get thicker and thicker getting freezing before the 10w40?
Why some vendors recommends for racing to go (for example) with a 10w60 instead a 10w40 arguing the higher revs and T° (having in mind 10w60 is thicker than 10w40 and with metal expanded a thicker oil won't flow the best).
Thank you so much in advanced for your time and patience.
Tom Christman Thank you. As I began to think about it, it seemed backward; referencing at the winter point (the oil) makes it easier to remember polymers do the thickening at higher temperatures.
W=winter viscosity, not weight, you don't weigh your oil!
@@luisernestoalvaradoholguin5356 true said
But is 5W SAE 5 at both -30c and 10c? Is the transition from thin to thick linear?
Hi
That's a very good question. My best answer to that, in accordance with as far as my knowledge stretches on this, Is that if a particular oil is flowed through the viscometer at -30, which indicates a flow time within the SAE 5 range, than it will be given the 5W status. Now taking that very same oil and testing it again at +10 may indeed give a different flow/time result. Exactly what result will depend on the oils overall multigrade rating as per previous test. But my point is that because these oils are, to my knowledge, tested at ether very low temperature, or at 100c then I can't give an exact answer to your question of whether or not it will behave like a SAE5 at +10, after behaving like an SAE5 at -30.
I'm sure if you spoke to someone who has a Hyrodynamics background, then I'm sure you would get a closer answer. As for whether or not the transition from these points are linear, again I'm not too sure exactly. I'm sorry I can't be of any more help. Thanks for the question though. I can see you are in to your physics and hydrodynamics. Thanks again. Craig
TheRepairSpecialist
Hi great topic......based on this answer, Why don't you do your own test and post results instead of quoting unproven figures. I agree with Tip Tipsta, and others 100%
Damn! Best Video on the Explanation by Far! Thanks for this...YOU Got a Sub!
Thank you Sir!
Very informative yet simple and easy to understand.
My oil is always cool.
Try canola or olive oil might work better ..
try also lubricant oil to make it fast
try virgin coconut oil also.
I am so confused! How does oil get thicker when its warmed up to 100 degrees??
It gets thinner not thicker
It doesn't. Multigrade oils just thin less as temperature increases than the baseline monograde oil.
Bugger
I thought it was the other way around my entire life
Thanks for explaining that
This video cleared my mind about sae ratings
so i put 15w40 on my 2.0vw but on highway with hot car i got a low oil pressure light, manual recommends 5w40, should I change oil? 15w or 5w had not effect as this is the cold viscosity right?
nac5000 hi, I would always recommend the oil that your manufacture has suggested to be correct for your engine. Its the same for me. My vehicles are always run on manufacturers recommended oil. I realise it can be tempting to try other specs of oil from time to time but I have seen so many damaged engines as a result of trying oils outside of manufacturers recommendation. In fact so much so that I don't use anything else myself. I hope this helps. Thanks.
nac5000 have you fitted a spurious oil filter? Otherwise your engine may be a bit worn
You have worn bearings/oil pump problems
put lubricant oil
nac5000 you should definitely change it 15 is way too thick at cold , go with 5w-40
Great Video, but its wrong that oil has a lower viscosity at lower temperatures. I just means that the oil behaves like a SAE 5 behaves at cold temperatures and an SAE 30 at 100°. However even an SAE 5 has higher viscosity at low temperatures than an SAE 30 at high temperatures.
Yes, you are absolutely right, that is how the oil behaves, rather than the oil actually being a certain viscosity. Maybe I didn't make myself clear enough in the video that this is the case. Thank you for your valuable feedback though. Many thanks indeed.
Actually they use two separate tools of measure...You are right but for the wrong reason
TheRepairSpecialist Jo
If using the same tool of measurement as the last number or operating temp number, which is measured by a viscometer, the weight of the oil at starting temps of 40 C 100 F which is the temperature used would be about a 300 weight....Taking Mobil 1 as an example their 5W-30 it is over 65 centistokes at starting weight and only 11 at operating temp... a 50 weight is about 18 to 20 at operating temps
I posted my reply before reading this one. This guy has it exactly. My Chemistry professor argued this with me so I did a paper on it. I measured densities and flows to prove him wrong. He still wouldnt admit I was correct. Even brought the SAE test papers showing density and flows. ALL engine oils flow less (have higher viscosity) at lower temps.
Beautifully succinct and very well said, keep up the good work!
Im running 20/70 in my old '77 hi ace lol its seems to love it ,still pulls a full load while burning a little oil ! Cheers.
I'm pretty sure this video is misinformative. A 5w-30 oil is always thinner when it's in operating temperture. That's why car mechanics always go for a drive before an oil change, so that the oil will heat up, thus it will run faster and less oil will stick to the wall on the inside of the motor.
When you measure the viscosity of an oil, you have for example 1 "unit of volume" of cold oil, and 5 or maybe 10 "units of volume" of warm oil, and the numbers 5w-30 refer to the time it takes to run thru a viscometer. Becasue you have a higher volume of warm oil, it will take longer to run then the cold oil.
Please correct me if i'm totally wrong, because I have a test tomorrow about cars and engines
Hello. Do you still know the same? Please share.
How did you do in the test?
First off, these are not codes, they represent a specific weight. Codes are what modern cars produce indicating what's called "a trouble code"
Thanks for clear and understandable information, and thanks for getting right to the point!
My pleasure! Thank you so much for your kind feedback. Craig 👍👍👍
Very clear and understandable explanation! To the point! 👌🏼
very simple, clear and up to the point directly. Many thanks.
God pless you.
thanks for greasing my doubts on all these oil jargons.
Excellent breakdown! Thank you.