The "W" DOESN'T Stand For WEIGHT! A Certified Lubrication Specialist Explains SAE Viscosity Grades.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ม.ค. 2023
- 20W-50, 5W-30, 0W-20... These viscosity grades are all available at the local auto parts store, but a 0W-20 is not a Zero Weight oil. The "W" in 0W-20 actually stands for Winter.
Because viscosity is the most important characteristic of any lubricant, understanding SAE grades is critical to optimizing engine performance and durability.
World renowned Tribologist and Certified Lubrication Specialist, Lake Speed Jr explains the SAE J300 viscosity grade classification system in this video.
To get started with oil analysis, visit www.speediagnostix.com
Many motor oils are available at amzn.to/3RpHOAR
Who is the @themotoroilgeek ? I'm a Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers Certified Lubrication Specialist and Oil Monitoring Analyst (I've maintained both of those for over a decade). I also worked for Joe Gibbs Racing for 12 years as their lubricant specialist. During that time, we worked with Wix Filters (one of our sponsors) to test and develop filters for our race engines. We also worked with Lubrizol and Chevron-Phillips Chemical to test and develop oils for our race cars. Following that, I was the head of R&D for Driven Racing Oil. During that time, I formulated and tested over 50 products. We also worked with Cummins, Comp Cams, Oak Ridge National Labs and General Motors on various R&D products. Those efforts are recorded in peer reviewed white papers published by SAE International and ACS Sustainable Chemistry journals.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases That just means that I may earn a small commission, at no cost to you, if you choose to purchase that product from Amazon.com. It is a way to help support the work of The Motor Oil Geek.
#viscosity #motoroil - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Finally someone that gets it 100% right. Best explanation ever. Smart man
Thank you sir!
Yeah this is the time I have heard the SAE numbers explained in nuanced detail. I had been wondering how it was possible for oil to get thicker at higher temperatures. This explanation makes total sense of all that.
Yes he understands, and has knowledge , of what. He is explaining.
@@themotoroilgeek. Hi I just found your channel. Great info. I am running a 331 stroker small block ford. I live in southern Calif. I always wonder what oil should I run. It’s a week end worrior and car cruise meets. I don’t race it. I used Valvoline racing 20-50. Is that too thick for my application. Running flat tappet hydraulic cam. Can I get away with a thinner viscosity or stick with 20-50. I don’t use ZDDP additive. It says it’s in the oil. Thanks looking forward to your recommendation 👍🏼
I love these longer-form presentations. Good knowledge is being handed down here.
Glad you like them!
just an FYI; in Alaska we glue a 150watt, 120volt heating pad on the bottom of the oil pan and plug in for a couple of hours before starting. Helps limit engine wear.
i tried it . ehhh not so good . but i live in FLORIDA😮
Yup oil pan heaters have been around for a decades. Especially on air cooled engines. The trick is to not over heat the oil or you destroy it
Back when I was a wee lad in Upstate NY, I remember my folks taking their car into the garage to get the oil changed, the radiator serviced and snow tires installed. I also remember 30 weight HD oil and that was a big deal.
I appreciate your ability to take technical subject matter and break it down into something the average person can understand. I was in tech for nearly 40 years and it was something I had to do on a daily basis, so it is appreciated when I see a subject matter expert impart his knowledge with skill.
Thanks!
There was a reason it was invented in Bradford, PA by AMALIE.
I feel like a total nerd but I love how this guy explains oils engineering and terms. Great video and you’ve got a new subscriber now
Thank you! We are all about the oil nerd vibe, LOL
@@themotoroilgeekwhat happens to oil viscosity when we add blue devil stop leak additive to oil in winter???? Thx
@@letmethinkv great question. Some of those products can raise the viscosity significantly, which can be detrimental in winter cold start conditions.
@@themotoroilgeek if you can test this specific blue devil product ....it will be great thx
What a great wealth of knowledge! Thank you for sharing this with us! It is quite interesting to now understand what the differences of motor numbers really mean!
Im glad he spoke on this and the actual procedure behind assigning these grades and noting its not weight of oil. Its another reason why i always never put much stock in these cold pour tests to measure which oil flows better in an engine as there is rotational force or flow calculated. When and engine is cold and you have the friction of the oil pump, crankshaft and all other rotational components of engine thats a better way to calculate imo. I really am glad i found this channel
I'm kind of an "oil geek" myself, a natural outgrowth from wanting the best for my machines. I love your presentations.
This is easily one of my favorite videos!
I want to learn more about oils and this type of video really helps with that! Of course, I doubt too many people would watch this, which is sad as they all want their engines to last a long time, but don't see this knowledge as useful.
Thank you!
Thank you, I am always checking if you have more video's.
More to come!
Lake, you threw some terms around that I haven’t heard since trade school(40 + years ago). I love listening to the technical side. Thanks, and keep them coming. Rick
Thanks!
Detailed and comprehensive. Thanks!!
This is a great channel - I am always very thankful for every new video!
Glad you enjoy it!
That is absolutely fascinating. Good explanation.
Growing up before multi-grade oils we always called single grade oil as Weight. Before your time when the Pump Jocky would check the oil and water and he say "your low on oil, what weight are you useing".
Simply the best explanation I have come across on what for example 0W-20 actually means.
Well done!
Thank you!
I'm here from Stapleton42. I just love your enthusiasm when you are in his videos!! You and your dad are frickin awesome!! Now I'm going to watch all of your videos and I'm also switching to Driven Oil just because of you for my flat tappet 351w. Amsoil is almost $20 a damn quart for that ZROD Oil.
Thanks!
Thank u. So we'll explained. This is the way my mind works and all the stuff I've thought about through the years but never really had answers to. Thanks again... U have found a great 'niche' for all of us engine/machine/mad-scientists. Thanks again
You are so welcome
This was so good. Should have been trending at release!!
Thank you!
This is so much great information and thanks for sharing your wisdom
Glad it was helpful!
Mind blown!!! Great explanation!! Wow!
As usual, great stuff Lake. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. Regards Greg from Perth in Western Australia
Thanks for watching!
Back in the day, we ran straight 50 weight motor oil in large radial aircraft engines. During winter, the engines needed extensive pre-heating to achieve the proper viscosity before starting the engines. I remember spilling some 50 weight on the ramp at -20F. After the spill cooled to -20F, I could be pick it up off the snow like a piece of coal.
No ya didn't
@@TheHonestPeanut Have you ever played in -12 degree F weather? As a kid, we were not allowed to be inside, unless they were worried you would melt or blow away!
@@jeffreyyoung4104 played and worked, yeah. A few years ago I logged in -17 with wind. What's that have to do with using a non existent thing though? The OC called it "50 weight" which isn't actually a thing.
@@TheHonestPeanut OK, he used the common definition for viscosity, and it is known and understood to mean the same thing when you say weight. So when you go to the store to buy oil, and say you want 90 weight gear lube, everyone there will understand and grab the same bottle of lube.
@@jeffreyyoung4104 on a video that literally explains why it's wrong and what the correct meaning is. Either dude's thick as polar bear shit or an asshole. Either way it's a dumb comment.
Great video sir. My father built a log splitter in the 70’s and put a 1950’s Wisconsin 2 cylinder on it. Hand crack start. Run SAE 30 for engine and oil bath air filter. Air cooled engine. Still running strong.
Great video. Please, make a video talking about thickening polymers.
Thank you for the load of knowledge regarding terms often used improperly. 9:27 table is very interesting, I put it in perspective with a modern oil like Motul X-Clean GEN2 which provides 3.9 HTHS@150°C while being 5W40.
OMG thank you for this. So many (one some cases very good) engine builders do not understand this.
I'm glad you liked it.
Thanks for doing the research for anyone who is obtuse about engine oil knowledge. I do remember oil being just SAE 30 or a specific weight, mostly used for generator motors etc. Thanks goodness for Kendall chemist's giving the automotive engineers a better blueprint to design more efficient motors. Your passion for automotive knowledge is appreciated ✌🏽❤️
Thank you!
In North Dakota on my 1985 Landcruiser 2F I6. with 318K Mi. i have always used when i can 5w30, and now 0w30 or 0w40, in the winter from Sep- May. I also have a circulation tank coolant heater running 78percent antifreeze 22percent water. good for -80deg F. A silicone pad oil pan heater "" ON a timer"". and a battery blanket heater. Fires up every time like it is 60deg F. when it is -40, -50Deg F. Thanks for explaining this so well. Tom in ND.
Thanks for another great video. The explanation of rotational vs flow in regards to the multigrade numbers cleared things up in my head!
I’m glad that helped. It never made sense to me until I understood that as well.
48 Year CLS formulator here very good info thanks to dispelling a lot of myths. Plese leave the FTIR and Spectro pages a little longer so I can read them LOL.
Thanks, will do!
I could listen to Lake Speed Jr discuss car topics all day long.
Thanks!
You are fantastic at explaining oil and how it works. I can think of no one else that I can trust more to provide useful information regarding oil than you.
I think that you could do a great service in making a video regarding
the ideal type of oil for use in an air-cooled riding lawnmower engine and its hydro gear transmission. There are virtually no videos out there to provide the level of expertise that you have regarding this matter.
Evidently, many lawnmower engines are failing due to high heat. Can this be because of less zinc or other lacking additives in new oil formulas? Hydor gear transmissions call for a 20W/50 engine oil, but what would work best....a high zinc oil?
Thanks for your videos. You are great.
Thanks for the kind words. I’ll think about doing that.
nice information. I would love to see a comparison on Rottela t6 and mobil one. Thank you for all your videos
This was very informative... I have been running 5w40 in my truck and was afraid that winter cold starts would be a bit too "thick". I've had a few -30f nights and quite a few -15f nights, so it is good to know the oil still flows good enough and isn't a block of gel that can't be pumped.
Wow! Interesting, That's a lot to take in and understand.
It really is!
I’d be interested in learning about ATF. I worked at New Process Gear years ago. We put ATF into transfer cases which is interesting because ATF is hydraulic oil. Transfer cases are not hydraulic like an automatic transmission is. Additionally, I did some cold synchronizer testing with mineral vs synthetic ATF. Differences were incredible. Great video, thank you.
WELL DONE. | Thanks for the facts.
Thanks!
The youtube algorithm brought me there and I'm glad because it's informative. I do have a question, my bmw engine (s54b32) requires 10w60 oil, which is pretty thick in my opinion. Based on information I could find online, BMW spec'd this oil due to the recall of the first year or two the engines started to have rod bearing failure due to the smaller rod bearing surface area having a redline of 8k RPM which initially had a factory 5w30 oil spec. This engine is known to have increased rod bearing wear due to the smaller rod bearing surface area so it's a recommended maintenance service interval of 80-100k miles to have the rod bearings replaced.
Now there is a lot of discussion in the BMW forums regarding the oil viscosity and theories that BMW spec'd this weight of oil as a BAND-aid for the root cause (smaller bearing surface area). I've made the switch to redline 5w50 at the recommendation of others who claim to have experience that it's a much better oil for the engine. Looking at the data sheets, the viscosity at 40C and 100C is similar to a comparable 10w60 (liqui moly). The HTHS is over 3.5, 5 to be exact for redline 5w50. Does this mean that the redline 5w50 has the same characteristics as the 10ww60 (liqui moly) with better cold cranking value (5W) and better oil flow (50)? I hope I'm understanding that correctly. Thanks!
Great question! Yes, the 5W-50 Redline is a better option than the 10W-60. We never see a 10W-60 still in the 60 grade range after use. They either shear to a 50 or 40 grade.
Try to use 0w40 mobil1 fs.
I had straight 30w in my V-8 in snowy Delaware. My engine struggled to crank over. Once it started, everything was okay.
I recently acquired a replacement car with a BMW M47R diesel engine, it had been recently serviced but I had no information on what oil had been used I assume that it was the either a 15w,-40 or 10w-40 semi-synthetic which were BMW's original recommendations when this engine type in UK climate when this engine was introduced more than 20 years ago. I switched the engine to a more modern 0w-40 full synthetic meeting BMW's LL-04 standard which I know from.experience works well in these engines.
The beneficial effect on fuel consumption surprised me. Normal UK spring weather overnight temperatures just above freezing typical ambient temperature at engine start 7 or 8 centigrade. From.cold start vehicle is used daily for a 6 mile outbound journey which is all up hill and a 6 mile return journey 2 hours later.
After the oil change fuel consumption immediately improved by between 3 and 5.%
Best explanation I have seen. This video needs to be seen by all the oil experts out there who think the oil starts as a 10 weight cold then thickens to a 30 weight hot. Same goes for those who use 15W40 diesel motor honey in their gasoline engines that call for a thinner oil. This seems to be very popular these days.
Do a video about zinc in oil. There is a decades long belief that more is better. What is your opinion about someone dumping a zinc additive on top of your already carefully formulated package?
Don’t do it! - Thanks for the comment. The ZDDP video is in the works.
@@themotoroilgeek I stopped using additives a couple decades ago. I will no longer contaminate what comes out of the bottle.
@@Deucealive75 👍👍
Back in the early 60's I had a 1952 Pontiac straight 8 engine. That had a main bearing knock, I used a 40w oil with a can of STP, even in California, at 7:00am. the engine would not turn over fast enough to start, but open the hood and let the sun warm the engine. till about 12:00 pm noon. The engine would start right up. But now with the new battery chemistry, it would have started up anyway. Great Video, THANKS
Thanks!
I remember those days! I used SAE 40 during the summer in my 61 Buick, but if there was a really cold morning, it would crank too slowly to reliably start, yet later in the day, it would start right up every time.
I would really appreciate it if you could elaborate more on the 0w40 vs 15w40 to talk in detail why the 40 weights get those types of special rules etc
Mobil Gargoyle Arctic C. Typically used in refrigeration compressors. I had to buy that oil for an old machine tool years ago. It was for a friction disk lined feed clutch on a Gray Planer. I think it is basically mineral oil. It would be interesting to hear an experts thoughts on the "Arctic" oils. Certainly not an SAE spec.
Great content as always, I'm looking forward to your video on viscosity index. I have always avoided oils with wide viscosity spreads as much as ambient temperatures allow because of the problems viscosity modifiers have historically caused. I'm sure modern viscosity modifiers don't cause nearly as many problems as they did in the bad old days, but I still don't like the possibility of shearing, higher volatility, etc.
That one is in the works!
love these videos. in my Diesel (Cummins 6.7) i would use a Rottela T6 10w30 in summer and in winter i'd drop to 5W as that was lowest available in T6. (i'm in northern canada and see -45C temps) my new truck runs 0W20 all year.
@4:02 answers the question I could not get answered my whole life. My question was does an oil viscosity value at high temps exceed the viscosity at low temps. Now I know! THANK YOU! For my whole life, people explained both numbers were for viscosity, but it never made sense to me that the higher number was for hotter (less viscous!) oil. Thank you!!!!!! In science and engineering, you should always be working in consistent units. These double numbers violate that rule but nobody ever seems to mention it when they "go into detail".
Glad it helped!
Well explained
It is a difficult concept to explain to people. Nice one!…..
Hey good point on the 8,12 overlap…look at the HTHS!
I like to torque analogy on centpoise and the flow on centistokes.
Can be very confusing to people
But rewarding when it clicks!
Thanks!
Great teacher! Ty
Glad it was helpful!
1952. Jersey Standard introduces Uniflo motor oil, the first multigrade motor oil recommended for both summer and winter use.
Dr. John Ellis founded Valvoline in 1866 when he discovered the lubricating properties of distilled crude oil, formulating the world's first petroleum-based lubricant.
Thanks for this information. I thought I had a working knowledge, but I just learned I didn't even have my terms correct.
One practical tip that I learned flying turbocharged airplanes (extremely expensive engines) is don't just shut down a turbo engine until the turbo cools. If the turbo is red hot and the oil pressure goes to zero, it will cook the oil in the turbo and lead to premature oil degradation as a small amount turns to charcoal at the 1400 degree turbo temp. Maybe cars keep circulating the oil for a time. IDK, but it seems like they should.
Any plans to make a video explaining HTHS viscosity, its importance, where higher or lower is or isn't beneficial, when to use which when the manufacturer doesn't specify, etc? I think that would make a great video.
We will probably get there at some point.
Hi, do you recommend me to use a 10w-30 or a 15w-40 in a 100k Miles vehicle? This in summer with temperatures between 30 to 40 celsius. Nice video and channel !!
Lake, awesome video! Is their much difference with the oils at operating temps above 32 degrees? So like 0-30 to 10-30 same brand and base oils. Last summer I ran the 10-30 seen awesome results. I have used the 0-30 all year around also. Using the Amsoil signature series.
Yes, the 0W-30 will be thinner at 100F than the 10W-30 at 100F, but they are the same at 212F. This is where viscosity index comes into play, which is a whole other video in itself.
Since I ride my motorcycle year round, from the low teens to 100+, I see a deep rabbit hole of researching. Starting with going back to the owners manual.
Wonderful explanation. It dispels a lot of the myths. Looking at the test table here: 09:21 , I see that for the W ratings, the "hottest" tests were performed at -10 degree C. Does that mean for a vehicles that are driven in tropical countries that never ever get below +15 degree C, the W rating is entirely irrelevant? I'm currently working overseas in a tropical country and there's a lot of myth about how 0W40 is better than 10W40, etc.. But going by what you have explained here, it really doesn't apply to climates that never gets below sub-zero Celsius.
Exactly! If the temperatures are never below freezing, then it is mostly irrelevant. The narrower the split between the number before the W and after the W, the more shear stable it will be.
Excellent!
Many thanks!
Back in the day, W always meant Winter. SAE 10W and SAE 20W were winter-grade oils, SAE 20, 30, 40, and 50 were summer-grade oils. The difference between SAE 20W and SAE 20 was in the temperature it's viscosity was measured.
The more I watch the more I’m convinced I may should switch to 5-30 from 0-20. In South Carolina the lowest it gets is 20 degrees in dead of winter. Or maybe use a 0-30.
There are thinner and thicker 5w-30's. They are not all the same. Pennzoil purebase oils, these made from natural gas, are known to be on the thinner side of their specs. In fact many criticize them as being too thin for their designation. South Carolina has very moderate winters, nothing compared to northern states where a 0w-20 would be needed in winter.
Yeah it's too warm to go from 5w30 to 0w20. Plus the majority of time the engine is warm from running, so the oil is going to be at 30. 20 is going to be too thin. I had many cars that used 5w30 in the winter in Chicago, it would be -20 or lower, they were fine.
0w30 is a year round oil
You could try mixing the same brand and type of oil half 5w30 and half 0w20. So that comes out to 3w25ish? There’s people mixing oils all the time with no issues and every additive is messing with the oil as well and there’s no issue. If you want slightly more protection it’s a good option.
@@Scotford_Maconochie Too when cold for my tastes.
Hey there motor oil geek😅 it's great that you explain things in such technical terms but it would be nice at the end if you would just explain it in plain English for those of us that aren't geeky😮 we would really appreciate that❤
TMOG, could you discuss the trade off between oil shearing over time, which lowers the grade, and sludge build up over the, which increases grade. In the old days in a warm climate (Houston) I used 10W40 in my 280z. It used a quart of oil between oil changes and I would top it off with 50 weight to offset presumed shear degradation. Seemed like a good idea, but was it, given that weight increases with mileage due to sludge and other reasons?
I remember learning in high school automotive class back in the 90's that the "W" meant winter. That always stuck with me and I get a little smile on my face every time I hear someone say they're looking for a specific weight oil. I would correct them, but I know better :)
Smart move!
Very interesting! My air cooled Harley takes 20w50. Pretty much honey because runs so hot all year vs 0w in my truck
Thanks for the aerial shot of Puerto Rico 12:26 . Is always summer here and I always try to use the heaviest mfr recommended oil in my vehicles. Lots of stop-n-go traffic and short trips (heat cycles). I also do ZDDP oil additive in my 03 Porsche C4s because of, reasons lol. I try to avoid 0W oils whenever possible. It NEVER gets that cold here. Am I wrong?
Informative video.
Glad it was helpful!
Part 2: Oil Shear Stability
Excellent video
Thanks! I can’t wait to do that video and break out the KRL test results…
I've been in the automotive trade for more than 30 years, 4 years away from retirement I finally learn what the numbers really mean.........
Thanks for watching!
can you do the video concept you mentioned in this video about 0w efficiency and protective abilities please
Back in the early 90s we use to run 90 weight in our dirt cycles, them things went about 20k hours without checking the oil.
Could you comment on the use of 0W20 vs 5W30 or a mixture of the two in an LS?
Would love to see an oil brand quality comparison.
Great suggestion!
this vid is lit🔥
Thanks!
GDI engines seem to be all the rage these days. The type and viscosity of the oil and something called "scuff resistance" seem to be very important in a properly operating GDI engine. Would sure like to get your take on this subject and which oils are best suited for this purpose.
Thanks
As a long time mechanic, I've struggled with this.
What are your suggestions in one of my scenario's? Similar to what you touched on at the end, environment dictates chemistry.
I'm in a tropical climate with an older mazda as my kick around daily. In America my exact same 20 year old engine has a specified oil of 0w-20. If I go onto each individual oil manufacturer site in my country. Each one recommends a different specification? Anywhere from 0w-20 mobile to 5w-40 and everything in between.
In summer, the temperature ranges anywhere between 18C at night to low 30'sC on average but the occasional 40C.
1, Does the winter rating matter at all in my climate if it's always 30 to 60C!!! Above those winter ratings.
2, Why does environment matter to the hot rating (even in a hot environment) if the engine cooling system is adequate. It should only ever be around the temperature it is tested at 100C.
It pretty common here due to climate. If an engine asks for a 30, most will go to a 40. Are they just wasting fuel for no real gain in protection?
3, My confusion comes from the climate scales which suggest for ambient temperatures in my area. I would be nuts to run anything below a 40 in summer? Why does the ambient even matter if the rating is made at 100C, and the day to day putting around engine oil sits below that? Once at the same running temp. Other than the spec the factory has set for it's tolerance in the motor. Why does ambient temp even matter?
Id recommend installing an oil pressure gage if you want to go down in viscosity. take some oil pan temp readings from similar trips/different ambient temps and see how hot that oil is getting. no way id run a 0w20 in your climate. a 40 grade oil wouldn't be overkill either, especially with age and mileage.
The ambient mostly only matters for determining the Winter grade, 0w and 5w are so common because they cover any climate from the Arctic to the Sahara while having relatively little effect on the Summer grade. Typically, manufacturers don't really care about Winter grades in hot climates, thus they might spec 10w30 for a hot region while the US spec might be 0w-30 to ensure it's safe for the relatively few customers who experience extremely low temps who need the low viscosity. They used to run 'straight weight' 30 oil during warm seasons, with no Winter rating (i.e. just SAE 30 Oil instead of 5w30) when low temp performance wasn't a concern, and this is still common for race engines and small power equipment engines that only run in warm weather.
The 'Summer' rating is what actually matters for engine design, fuel efficiency and wear protection and many countries spec higher viscosity oils than US/Europe because they may not have as strict emissions/efficiency requirements and because low winter rating oils are generally more expensive/premium compared to a 10w or 15w for the same Summer rating. Usually the important Oil spec is determined by the summer rating within a relatively narrow range (i.e. Manufacturer prefers 30 oil, though xW20 or xW40 perform similarly enough to be allowed/suggested to provide protection) with the Winter rating not really mattering when the Engine is running at the same hot temp everywhere. The environment does NOT matter for the summer rating like you thought.
If a car suggests a 30 grade summer Oil, you won't hurt it with a 40 grade summer, but there's no reason to use it in a hot climate because as we established, the operating temp is regulated around 100c and using a higher summer viscosity is completely unnecessary. To help simplify multi-grade Oils, the 'real' or 'base' is the Winter rating, meaning a 0w30 Oil is a thinner Oil than a 10w-30, and the thinner oil with the same summer rating requires more additives (Polymers, etc) to achieve a given Summer viscosity rating. The higher Polymers content in wide-range Oils comes at the cost of somewhat worse protection (like high-shear or high-load lubrication as mentioned in this video) which is another main reason 'thicker' (higher Winter rating for same summer rating) Oils are suggested in different regions. It's critical to understand the the viscosity ratings are a range, meaning thinner Oils with more thickener additives have a slightly lower viscosity at the 100c reference than for instance a 15w-30 or especially just an SAE 30 oil with no thickener additives. It's a fairly narrow range meaning there won't be a huge difference for a certain summer rating, but the slightly lower viscosity will theoretically provide worse protection, leading to manufacturers preferring higher winter ratings in general when they can ignore the extreme cold viscosity performance.
So, to sum it up, the Winter number is the actual Oil viscosity with high Polymer wide-range oils being much thinner at room and low temps and slightly thinner than narrower range, lower polymer oils at 100c with slightly worse protection. The caveat is that this assumes all the base Oils are high quality for the different grades and in general lower Winter rating oils tend to be a higher quality, often fully synthetic base oil versus 10w and 15w being cheaper with a lower quality Oil and thus it's assumed that 0w and 5w will last longer before degrading chemically in general, another main reason they're chosen as the spec when not required to offer more protection for customers who neglect oil changes. That's the basics on viscosity and protection but the best Oils are largely determined by the base oil quality and additives for anti-wear, cleaning, etc. Just go with the Summer rating for your engine and you can research the Oils with the best additives and highest refinement if you care enough beyond running the right viscosity.
Hi Lake , lm from Australia and am currently running a 2014 Vw Touareg v8 tdi , with our hot summers here are the Vw 507 5w-30 oils going to cut it when towing in 40c heat here ?
Not that l intend to when it’s that hot but sometimes it can’t be avoided
Cheers Ken
Thanks for the info as some idiots on TH-cam explained 20w50 oil viscosity increase from 20 to 50 when engine operation get hotter. Some say oil gets thinner with high mileage and some say it turns to sludge.
I'm happy to help!
Very interesting. I found a German öl analysis where they compare the most popular brands viscosity claimed vs measured and I based my race car oil on that information. Shell Helix Ultra ECT C2 C3 0W-30 seemed to perform better that Mobil 1 ESP same weight altho Mobil 1 had a better claimed viscosity at 100c. Can you guys do a test like that?
Thanks for the suggestion!
Thank you Jr., this video is long overdue.
You're very welcome
I've frequently moved up from 0W-20 to 0W-30 on noisy engines that I've had and it helps with the noise if there's normal wear that's making some slight valvetrain noise. Don't know if this is a good idea or a bad one.
Making the engine quieter likely reduces wear. Used oil analysis can confirm if a change in viscosity helps or hurts wear.
Maybe someone can answer this question here. I've noticed for various cars the owners manual in the US will say one grade of oil while the same owners manual in another country will provide a list of other grade oils a person can use. Example, new land cruiser manual specifies 0w-20 only. While the Japanese manual lists 0w-20 as standard, but up to 10w-30 as also acceptable.
Will Diesel oil formulations have a better load stability as they have much higher compression?
Is the viscosity and protection level video out yet? Its all interesting, and I understand that an engine will turn over easier with 0W, but how does it impact the longevity of engines with its protection? Plus, we don't live at the arctic circle, most of us at least. So whats the real life tradeoff with 5W, 10W, etc, and their lower grade additives as mentioned in the video... Lets say in a world of worst case scenario of -15c
I'm beginning to think that all that I need is a good straight 30 "weight" oil in my race engine, since I do not run it during the winter, it's usually all tore apart in my garage for a rebuild!
So i am now mixing 5w30 with 5w50 to get 5w40 in the summer for my high mileage 3.5L ecoboost.
If you have a summer car or are a Florida driver is adjusting the numbers up better for lubrication, you don't need the 0 or 5W and when very hot W30 might be better than W20?
So, what should I put in my classic VW Bug 1965 Convertible?
What if you live in Florida and your car uses 5w 20. Should you bump up the weight
Unbelievabley valuable insights we all can bow our heads head to the genius propeller heads!!!!
Opinions on the 0W16 Toyota calls for in the new 2023 rav4 vs just using the 0W20 which is readily available. I live in Texas and we only have 2 seasons, blister hot and warm..Seems using the GM 0w20 dexos approved oil would be something to look into.
We are going to do a video about that.
I find your videos, intriguing and educational. A lot of things, I had no clue about. I especially like your video about adjectives to Motorola. I had speculation that they were essentially snake oil. And have you some of these things and kind of makes me cringe that I have done this potentially damaging my engine. My question is in your analysis.What is the best five w twenty full synthetic motor oil I currently run castro g t x full synthet ache and I have a hundred nineteen thousand miles on my six cylinder pentistar engine In my 2014 Jeep Wrangler, which being in the automotive industry.You may know they have issues with rocker.And Lifters causing a tick. I have changed the rockers and still have the tick and looking for an oil to protecthe sportly designed engine.
What? What in your opinion like? I said is the best for protection. From what you test.
Ed
I was hoping to find out which oil I should choose for my v6 4.3 mercruiser and 455 Olds jet boat. I've been using SAE 30.
Hey Lake, love your vids. Question: (you may have already touched on this previously) Should I run a heavier oil in a high mileage engine than what the manufacturer recommends? My Buick Enclave has 130k on the clock. TIA!
Thanks! Modern production engines use Bi-Metal bearings that don't wear the same as "old school" Tri-Metal bearings. As such, there is no need to use a thicker oil in an older engine.
Well Lake, I have been using 10W 30 in my 3.8 liter engine in my van for almost as long as I have had my old van. Yet with it burning oil, it might be advantageous to step down to the 5W 30 the manufacturer recommends for my jalopy, even though my onboard information center claims that I am getting around 19 miles per gallon.
Which that is with new two years ago E3 platinum spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter last year. Essentially everything has been changed with regards to a tune up.
Now I do only change my oil every 10,000 to 12,000 miles, because it is all highway miles, which my owners manual definitely allows for longer periods between oil changes, which includes oil filter change.
You might want to try the Cummins / Valvoline Restore oil. If the oil consumption is due to buildup in the ring grooves, that oil will fix it.
@@themotoroilgeek Okay I will definitely look into doing that and looking into getting an sample test to get an analysis of my engines health aside from what you are alluding to in your response.
@@themotoroilgeek Lake, I also want to be sure to thank you for taking the time to get back to me as well.
@@TheCrewChief374 I’m happy to help!
The PCV valve needs to be changed on those engines regularly or they, like most engines, will burn oil. I change mine every other oil change and it keeps the oil use at a minimum.
UNBELIEVABLE STUFF!!! Just to show you oil is NOT just oil.
Thanks!
This man knows his stuff and his explanation of the number before W was great, but I must have missed something as I didn't get a Viscosity explanation for the second number. I've been advised to run a 10W50 in my (European petrol 1.6L Mini) as its a trackcar mainly so will be ran at high temps mostly, but im still no wiser as to how this is better than a 40. Will it affect performance due to being too thick or would 40 be too thin...
The second number is flow at 212F (100C). The higher the number the slower the flow (thicker viscosity).
Are there all the viscosites the same on all 5w-30s? Or are some thicker than others at operating temp?
*_Alright! Gonna try 0w30 on my 97 Hatch 😆_*
As a Finnish person I really annoyed with the term of Weight speaking with oils. This was relief to hear.