Here’s the list of products reviewed. More details in the video description. Thank you! Pennzoil 0W-16: amzn.to/3Bea68x Pennzoil 0W-20: amzn.to/42kB8XI Pennzoil 5W-20: amzn.to/41qbW0A Pennzoil 5W-30: amzn.to/3MelNCl
most important piece which is overlooked is lack of oil pressure. Shoot oil on grinding wheel with pressure of 30psi. which will allow more flow of thinner oils and may show lesser wear if more volume of thinner oil is disbursed over rotating disc.
The amount of effort and time you put into these videos for mundane everyday products is honestly unparalleled on the entire Internet. You sir are a hero for the everyday man.
I love that you are straight to the point , no fluff. No sponsors. Just raw information quick as not to lose anyone’s attention span. You’ve built a great channel.
@@turn-n-burn1421and the best part is when you've already bought something and then he does a comparison video it's nice to get confirmation after the fact you bought a decent product
@@turn-n-burn1421 Honestly, I trust Project Farm even more than Consumer Reports. You can tell a lot more about one man's integrity than you can about a company with lots of people. You never know when someone's biases might sway a Consumer Report article, or any other article, for that matter. You can see and hear an honest appraisal when you watch these videos. Just fantastic information!
@@Techprep23That's a very good point! I know that it sure works like that for me! I feel a little bummed out on occasion when I made the "wrong choice" because I didn't know as much when I bought whatever than after watching these great videos. And I feel all smart and stuff when I found out that my pre-purchase research and purchase choice turned out to be the best one that I could have made, or at least the best one that I could afford to buy. This channel is the bomb!
@@ProjectFarm If you do another motor oil viscosity vs wear comparison, please consider making an equal parts mixture of 5W-20 synthetic and 5W-30 synthetic oils. If the wear scar decreases from that of the 5W-20 oil, but is also greater than the wear scar of the 5W-30 oil, then this empirically verifies that the wear rate of 5W-30 is not a fluke and that the wear rate is definitely better. Thank you.
What I love about this channel is he gets right to the point and no cringe intro and long explanations that are superfluous, it’s quick, coherent and easily understandable throughout the entire video and you never skip a part because it’s everything you need to know in every second. Not to mention there aren’t any cringe sponsors and what not.
When I saw that Jimmy Buffett passed away, I had my phone play "Margaritaville" while I got ready. I was in the shower when I heard some idiot talking, poked out my head, and it was an ad--after a 3-minute video, which had an ad before it. It was some young and fit guy telling me that I could answer a couple quick questions, learn my body type, and learn how to best lose weight. I answered some questions and he claimed that he just had a quick video to solve all of my problems--and talked for perhaps 30 minute. I got dressed, did 30 push-ups, and drove at least 20 minutes before the guy finally finished talking. 1. Carb cycling 2. Eat healthy fats 3. Do HIIT 3 times a week for 15 minutes 4. Pay him hundreds of dollars.
As an Alaskan, I'd love to see the -40 oil put into the wear tester to see how they perform when put to work in extreme cold. If nothing else it'd be a great video to show the importance of winterizing your vehicle (Transmission heat pad, Oil pan heat pad, Block heat plug to heat coolant, Trickle charger/battery blanket). We tend to run thin oils here cause the winters are so cold. Fairbanks Area.
im still waiting to see the power steering video. I live in the Montana mountains, and -30 isn't uncommon; then add on I have a leak, and I want to see how different power steering fluids handle sadly I don't have the money or power outlets so I can winterize my truck in any helpful way bc I cant go out and start it up every day due to gas prices
An interesting thought, but I think it would make essentially no difference. Ya it'll start out at -40, but the friction will heat it up FAST. It's not like you wreck your engine with a cold/dry start one time, it's doing it hundreds, or thousands of times that gives you issues. I guess you could swap the wear part to a softer metal and perform a shorter test, to try and compensate?
I love how nonchalant this man is. He has possibly the most positive comment section in the entirety of TH-cam in all of his videos and he always answers with a: Thanks! Never change 🗣️
Sure seems like the oil manufacturer added more additives to the 0w-16 to try and offset the increased wear of such a thin oil. Thank you for another informative test.
Unless the heavier rated oils stick to metal surfaces the heavier oil has a disadvantage when cold. With most wear taking place upon start-up the 0-16 has an advantage in this respect.
I'm retired but worked for a company that developed the micro-finishing film that most engine manufacturers adapted. There was extreme focus on the micro-scratch surface left by the finishing materials and very distinct to the design of a particular engine. There was much more engineering and research on this aspect than one might assume. When the manufacturer recommends a specific oil type and viscosity range, they have some well researched reasons for their recommendations. Modern, low-friction piston ring design also factors into what the manufacturer tells us we should be using.
@@DISOPtvexactly. Thinner oil gives better gas mileage. You’re trading off longevity for efficiency. The engineers only job is to build an engine that is more efficient than previous generations. That’s all they care about. They only need it to outlast the warranty.
Friction reduction has seemingly lost to fuel efficiency when it comes to the purpose of oils. I still run "thick" oil in the summer and lighter oil in the winter, glad to know that lessons from Papa still hold up🤙
That logic checks out, I would be concerned about sludge buildup if you aren't really getting the engine up to operating temp for a sustained period of time. All oils do it, synthetic or conventional but synthetic seems to degrade worse in subpar conditions from what I've seen. Be well and make sure to keep your oil changes often and frequent...oil is cheap-ish while engines and repair bills are anything but🤙
I don't think "friction" as he tests it here really is how the engine sees friction. One thing he hasn't tested is "pumpability" when cold or hot. Probably way exceeds his method of testing for friction.
I could be wrong but I believe he has created a "backyard" version of the actual tests conducted industry wide🤷 With that said, the ability to pump the goo around at various viscosity levels is planned out heavily by manufacturers...unless you have minus 50°c for a month and freeze your coolant all should be fine under your hood👍
6:25 yes! Thanks for letting people know this. Also the "S" that they have dropped off the end (10w30s) stood for Summer. Before multi viscosity oils folks would change viscosities for hot and cold seasons.
I remember my previous car (a 04 Seat Leon Cupra R) having such a note in its manual. It had the old oils in it you needed to change between summer and winter and the newer multi viscosity ones.
I love how clearly you speak, how little time you waste (see example: none) in getting the information down, and honestly, I can tell you really enjoy cracking these questions open. One of the best channels on TH-cam period, not just by genre, but entirely. Keep having fun, I'll keep watching!
I have to disagree. As someone with hearing impairment, his rapid speech is hard to follow. If I use the subtitles, then I'm forced to maintain a focus on the subtitles and lose most of the video. But I still love the channel. @@ProjectFarm
Ever think about watching twice? I'm dyslexic, low IQ, ADD, hearing impaired & have poor eyesight so l replay stop and make notes so l can get the message. This is one of if not the best channels for information.
@@FrankenDoctor With all due respect, I have hearing impairment as well, with my midrange that is human voice basically causing it to sound muffled. Mr. Project Farm's voice seems to work just fine for me and I have no issue understanding him. I know it sounds like Mr. Obvious but I try to keep videos at a higher than normal volume level as it does help with the comprehension. You can also find a playback device that allows you to play with the equalization.
9:32 The manufacturer doesn't always recommend "the best" oil, they will often recommend the oil that best meets EPA specs for mpg. Case in point, Ford's 5.4L 3-valve which officially calls for 5W20, but has incorrect pressure with it (too low) and works/lasts much longer when running on 5W30.
I love how you always explain the standards you are working against so every video can be watched as a standalone. Makes it easier to share the video with the folks I discuss them with.
Great to see someone finally put evidence behind the anecdote. Sacrifice a tiny bit of fuel economy and get a FAR longer lasting engine. I run 20w30 in my Ls1 statesman and it's got over 500,000kms on it. Doesn't burn oil, never smokes and has never been rebuklt
@damnnyiffers oil weight is just one factor. There is also how it is driven(harsh winters? Hot summers? lots of stop and go city driving? Lots of highway driving? Lots of idle time or very little? Etc), and oil change frequency.
@@steve8803 oil weight is by far the most important factor for conventional engines which do not specify 0w16 or lower. once you get into 0w16 the viscosity is not the most important consideration, bearing surface treatment technology reigns supreme.
My Skoda Octavia from 2018 has 200 000km and I am running 0W30, every 8000km change with all the filters. Runs like brand new - no smoke, no oil consuption, some friends told me "dude it can not be stock". Yes it is. I am adding Ceratec or MOS2 from LM on each oil change as well.
I’ve set it before and I’ll say it again. Hands down best TH-cam channel I’ve found. No long intros, no selling merch, just straight to the point in under 10 min.
Don't think anyone has ever commented on this, but the tight vocal editing, is always a plus point, and I appreciate it. Your videos are concise, informative, and still yet through.
Awesome test as usual! I still believe the CAFE requirements have a lot to do with manufacturer selection. Obviously, I would want a "thinner oil" in a very cold climate during start-up. However.... my 22-yr. old Buick calls for 10w-30 and I don't have any inclination to use anything else! Thanks for the tests!
I use 15-40 in the summer and 5-30 in the winter, both full synthetic. 320,000 miles and not a tick from the lifters and it doesn’t burn a drop. Leaks a bit but not enough to get worked up about. I have to top it off maybe 1 or 2 times between changes and I do 10k plus changes. And top it off means IT’s just touching the low line and I like it at the maximum mark. More oil equals better cooling from it.
I have used conventional/semi-synthetic 10w-30 in every vehicle I've owned in the last 21 years and have never owned a vehicle that didn't last 400,000 miles or more. I have done this regardless of the manufacturers specification. All of these vehicles succumbed to rust or driver-induced failure...no engine failed because of my choice of oil. That said, I changed my oil religiously at 3k or 5k miles (3k for conventional and 5k for synthetic). I also DROVE my vehicles. I beat on them and/or I drove them for significant periods of time to evaporate the condensation in the oil.
I used 5w30 in -30f and it worked fine. It started a little slow but I think that was more battery 0w30 felt about the same. I agree it is all CAFE even 0w16 cars here recommend 0w20 to 10w30 in other countries. People try to say the engine was specifically engineered for oil that thin. If it was then the manufacturer wouldn't also recommend 10w30. Engine clearances have been the same for a long time. Tolerances have gotten smaller (less variation) and the finish is better but the actual clearances are about the same. Todd's new truck having half the oil pressure also supports this, same size holes thinner oil = lower pressure. Companies care about profit and they lose money if they don't meet CAFE numbers. If thinner oil reduces total engine life but gets a better CAFE number of course they will do that. Next year CAFE is 51 mpg cars, 36.6 mpg trucks and 45 mpg combined. For every 0.1mpg under those numbers they have to pay $5.5 per vehicle produced. Miss the number by 1 mpg and you make 1.8 million cars (Toyota or Ford) thats $99 million dollars lost. Wonder why they are looking into 0w8 oil? Longevity is not always or is never the primary goal.
One of the greatest services provided by this gentleman is encouraging people to think critically and objectively. These videos belong in every engineering curriculum.
My last oil change on my 2016 Silverado, I mixed 0w-20 and 5w-30. The truck runs noticeable smoother. Next time it will be all 5w-30. Cold flow isn't a consideration as I live in the desert of Arizona.
I thought about doing the same on my JL wrangler... just to be safe.... After watching this video and forums.... My first oil change is coming up at 1500 and want to give it a head start on engine life by doing an early first change. And I live in Florida so it's rarely frigid here maybe a couple months of below 45* nights
@@wailingalenPersonally, my opinion on a new vehicle is to stay with the oil viscosity recommended by the manufacturer and what is says in the owner manual. Sometimes manufacturers will list more than 1 viscosity based on temps and usage, but usually it is just 1. If you use an oil that is not recommended and you end up with an engine problem under warranty, the dealer will void the warranty. And unfortunately today, manufacturers have more problems with new engines than you would think. Maybe you don't want to wait until the warranty is over, but it may be good to wait for a year or 2 and/or 15,000 miles or so... just to make sure. Also, if you can I would stay with the winter grade and only increase the grade for the hot weather viscosity. In other words, if it says 0W-20, think about 0W-30, or instead of 5W-20, go with 5W-30. You just don't want a high viscosity when you first start the car and before it is warmed up... I'm glad you are changing the oil at 1500 miles. Manufacturers say it is not necessary any longer, but I do that as well... Change the oil often and use a good filter; change fluids every 3 - 5 years or so; keep the air filter fresh; use fuel system cleaner (i like Chevron Techron); and drive it right... and it will last a very long time. I still drive a 22 year old Acura that runs like new with 238k miles on it..
Its important to remember that some newer cars have very thin oil galleries. Its not just about wear its about getting the oil through the galleries. If your oil is too thick and can't get through the galleries properly it doesn't matter how much wear protection it has cause your car will be getting very little oil on key components. .
@@StephenDeTomasi Kurzgesagt is extremely educational, but 99% of what they teach is not actionable. This channel gives education that makes an impact on my daily life.
When you do oil tests it might be interesting to include the all-time best and worst performers on the charts at the end of each test (maybe give them a faded out color to set them apart). This would give some overall context to the small selection being tested.
You can not appreciate this mans attention to detail enough until you've seen hundreds of videos trying to be scientific but failing miserably. No 'whats', 'ifs' and 'whens' were left behind. The questions posed are always answered and in a short and to the point manner. You, Sir, are very appreciated. Thank You!
Great test. I never run a 20 weight in a turbo charged engine but that's where the manufacturers are going because of CAFE averages. I realize you have to tell people to follow the manufacturers recommendations because of the liability issue but they really don't care how long your engine lasts as long as it makes it past the warranty period. VW had a 7 year or 70 thousand mile warranty before they switched to 0W-20. Then they dropped the warranty to 4 years or 50 thousand miles. They wouldn't have done that unless they don’t have faith in the oil they're recommending.
Exactly what I was saying yesterday. Glad others are catching on the gimmick. Also don't trust the engine oil life indicator light. Just use full synthetic engine oil and change it at least twice a year even if you don't drive over the mileage limit.
VW has a 6/72K warranty for only 2018 and 2019 model years. They did it to help potential buyers feel good about the company again. Remember that they got caught cheating on their diesel emissions. They were fined and had to buy back cars from their customers (or provide other remedies). It had nothing to do with 0W20 motor oil. If you look at the reason VW motors fail, it's not for lack of lubrication. Most times it's due to overheating. Their cooling system is overly complex and there are many places a coolant leak can occur. I've blown up two 2.0L VW motors in the past 4 years. Coolant leaks and runs low, then the motor overheats. Of course not temp gauge, so by the time the dummy light comes on, the motor is cooked!
@kanyeeastlolz Yes, Minnesota actually. All my vehicles.. every 3300 miles. So 10k miles, change it 3 times. Then, every 10k, rotate tires and drain trans oil (trans pan drain plug 4 quarts come out). It is sooo cheap to do this. I'm 65, retired, my dad taught me this since high school. I have always used Castrol gtx non synthetic. Just my .02 sharing.
@@ronlind1757 Conventional oils do fine at 3k mile oil changes, but, Supertech full synthetic is $18 for 5 qts, and you can easily go 5k OCIs. It's also a superior oil, I don't waste my time with anything not full synthetic.
This channel should be considered a national treasure. not only can I not tell you how many PF videos I have watched, but I have watched MANY of them more than once. Such a good channel. Another well done video much appreciated!😊
I believe Project Farm is recognized unofficially at least as the goto for product test results because of his scientific method, testing multiple ways, and objectively stated results.
Have you heard valvoline's new oil's claim to "restore pistons to factory clean" and protect them. That's a bold claim. Would love to see how they are against your top 2, amsoil and pennzoil with standard mobil 1
@@ProjectFarmPlease test this oil. I would like to see the collection of particles in the oil filter. That is the biggest concern I have heard of on a dirty engine. If you test it split and weigh the oil filters! Love your videos👍
Additives make a huge difference on wear. It would be interesting to also do a test with bearing material instead of, or in addition to, the test wheel & pin you are using. I'm pretty sure that is what oil companies tailor there additives to.
Valve lifters/tappets,cam lobes,piston rings/upper cylinder walls,also timing chain links/rollers. Ball pivots used under rocker arms and pushrod tips. Some cam drive chains and sprockets may be larger/better than the minimum practice,also some modern engines use "roller lifters" to try to reduce demands on lubrication but then there is the axle that the roller rolls on ! The oils are constrained by the fact that the EPA does not like a lot of antiwear additive(s) because of the idea that if the engine is burning a bit more oil than desirable the additive might poison the catalytic converter. I believe EPA has even found a way to spread that to Diesel engine oil requirements. So that obsolete SG rated oil from a few years ago may have had better antiwear performance under adverse conditions than today's oils although such standards as "GF-6" or "GF-6A" are an attempt to come up with oil that will offer adequate protection even with the EPA not allowing much of traditional antiwear additive. I believe the super long oil change distances being advertised by the car makers today are pushing the oil far beyond what is safe. I believe that the additives wear out. A broken in engine is easier to lubricate in my opinion than a brand new one. ideally the connecting rod and crankshaft main bearings are "floated" in oil most of the time that the engine is running.
Very interesting! As an old timer it's hard for me to wrap my head around the idea that you should use the same 0w-20 motor oil whether you live on a permanent glacier where anything above freezing is considered a heatwave, or, like myself, you live in desert where you put on a sweater when temps drop below 80. I'm going to need more than just a manufacturer recommending that, because as an ex dealer tech I've seen manufacturers recommend some pretty stupid things over the years. Things that are designed to make them money, not extend the life of the vehicle. And before y'all start typing, remember that oil temp and coolant temps are NOT the same thing.
If you open your owners manual it will have alternate oils than what's on the cap. My 18 f150 says 5w30 on the cap, but in the manual 5w40 is still in the temperature range... (although 5w30 would be better for me in winter).
If you run a block heater 24/7 then your engine never cools down and your oil doesn't break down the viscosity I can get 10,000 miles between oil changes if I use a block heater
Another great video. I'm old school and always thought a thicker oil was the way to go but I'm changing my thoughts a bit on the matter. I was always a 15w 40 guy in everything even small engines. I've never had an engine fail using it but sometimes colder starts were a problem. Then the 5w 40 diesel oils came out and I slowly switched everything to that. Boy did it make a difference in everything especially the diesels. I've come to the opinion that unless the engine is under maximum load and at high temperature all the time the thicker oils may not be necessary. Also oil pressure is an indicator of resistance to flow. So low oil pressure doesn't necessarily mean the engine is not getting oil. Engineering is constantly trying to improve fuel economy and I think that is a major factor, but also I think modern engines using thinner oils have a much higher oil pump volume to try to keep things cool. It's hard for an older guy to get his head wrapped around a 1.5 4 cylinder stock engine producing 250+ hp. Most all auto engines have oil coolers today and that says something. More power in a small package turning higher rpms and a turbo or 2 make a lot of heat and thinner oils flowing faster pick up more heat and carry it away for cooling . Sorry long winded but I'm always trying to learn and understand
newer engines usually have a cylinder that's purposely designed to be micro porous, it means they actually hold onto thinner oils but struggle with thicker ones, couple this with reduced friction piston rings, tighter journals , oil passageways and bore sprayers designed specifically for thinner oils to flow through them it makes it a bad idea to put thicker oils in them. Even though the thicker oil itself is technically a better lubricator when put in a modern engine it actually lubricates worse and can potentially even cause issues. Another thing to note is that a lot of new economy engines are direct injection which usually results in more carbon build up around the valves over time so using a thicker oil with less additives could increase the amount of carbon build up over time.
@@axeami1354 this all makes sense but then Toyota will specify 5w-20 in Europe and 0w-16 in the US for the same engine. If everything else were equal wouldn’t it make sense to equalize the oil specifications? Others reflexively scream CAFE but I’m not so sure
@@tjm3900 exactly, it warms the oil in cooler weather. Also aids in bringing engine up to stable temperature. I was going to mention it but I figured I was a little long winded as it was
We get the Reader's Digest version--informative, to the point, important facts, and a clear presentation. Well done. Three million subscribers and continuing to climb.
I tried 20W50 in an old '79 Plymouth Horizon I had. The engine needed a valve job and was burning oil. One day the temp dropped and the starter could barely turn the engine over.
Dear Project Farm, Thank you for the informative videos that have real world application. If I may suggest the following: 1. Calculate the weight loss due to evaporation as a percentage of the total initial weight. 2. Weigh the pins before and after and calculate percentage lost due to wear. I look forward to many new videos.
We own a 2012 KIA Sorento, & a 2023 KIA Sportage. On the Sorento, I use 5W-30 in the cool months, & 10W-30 in the summer. On the Sportage, I use 5W-20 during the cool months, & 5W-30 during the summer months. BTW, we live at Puerto Rico, and summers get awfully hot.
Hey Todd, have you thought about doing the bearing test AFTER freezing the oil? It would be interesting to see how each oil performs on a bearing when frozen.
I've wondered that. The thing is, once you actually get to the testing part, the oil has warmed up. You've got a good idea, but it might be difficult to test.
I love your videos there’s no beating around the bush always straight to the point. I rely on your testing before I buy anything. Thank you brother for the honesty 💪💪🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
You should have more subscribers than those mindless “ influencers”. You’re videos are thorough, and the normal individual would never be able to spend the money to test the unending amount of products you test weekly. Thanks man… love the videos.
When we first got a carton of 0W-16 oil at my shop, I didn't think it was for a normal daily driven vehicle. I though it was some specialty performance oil for a 2 stroke or something. Just goes to show how much closer the tolerances are in these newer engines. I drive 20+ year old Japanese vehicles and run 10-W30 in them with no issues. It helps that it rarely gets below freezing here.
always hear that term "new tight tolerance engines". but in reality pretty much all tolerances have been the same since the 90s as far as japanese engines go. also the reason the idle oil pressure on his 2020 is so low at idle. same bearing tolerances but lower viscosity oil.
It will on an 07 yaris made for 5w30 when you somehow manage to not only grab 0w20 but to put it in and run it. Instant oil glitter, but after 5k miles of 1000 mile oil changes with cheap conventional 5w30, it didn't even knock.
Can you test, say, 10w-40 for lubricity and puring viscosity, example @ 30 degrees Celsius , and then test the 5w-20 @ 10 degrees Celsius also for lubricity and pouring to see if acts the same as the 10w-40 @ this temperature , or @ what temperature will be the same
I think it would be a good video to test all 4 oils in your truck. Run 1000 to 3000 miles then do a oil sample test after each oil! Thanks for all your hard work!
I sent my Italian Iveco 6 cylinder Turbo charged diesel engine using Ams Oil 15-40W diesel with a by pass oil filter system that was like 2or3 microns. I sent my oil sample in at 15,000 miles it came back with a clean bill of health, I the tried the same oil at 25,000 miles and it was still OK? The trick was I changed the engine twin oil filters at about 7,500 miles and I kept the 3 or 4" diameter by about 12" inches Ams by pass oil filter till only one half of the filter was still hot and the other half much cooler? An engineer taught me that trick as that large oil filer was very expensive my engine went 350,000 miles when I parked it 20 years later as finding parts were very hard to get in the United States. I find it Odd the the same engine and Turbo charger was still good when I parked the truck?
Yes, because the test will show more results on where and tare. What components are worse. The 30w wate should be better for where. 16w whatever seems to thin depending on how hard you run your vehicle's.
@@77.88. I do the same on my Chevy cruze. It maybe where'd but it beats changing my oil like a idiot every 3,000 miles. I only do it once a year. It's the best feeling ever. Lots of pride saying so too. I run amsoil signature series 0w20
Thanks for running these test. My 2010 Honda element calls for 5w20 but have only used it maybe twice since i bought it new. I use 5w30 in it and my 2004 Nissan Titan as i don't think the 5w20 provides enough protection when it gets to be 110 down here in Texas. Oil shears down so that means the 5w20 will be even thinner after a few thousand miles. We don't usually see below freezing temps here so i don't worry about that. I normally use the Pennzoil ultra platinum not burning any oil with over a 150k on the little Element. I don't wait for the maintenance minder to come on i change at 5k or sooner. Oil test may say it still good but they don't test how much dirt and soot is in it.
But an engine block heater makes that a moot point as the oil won't be -40. Also it should still be coated from the last time it ran, unlike in the test where it gets cleaned between uses.
@@Dr-TH-camwhat hes saying is also test the cold oil from 0°F not just warm new and -40 because a majority of people arent going to see -40 temps where they live
I'm just glad you specified to stick to the recommended oil per car as my dad failed to do that in one of my first truck and ended up clogging up my oil pump and the pumps intake screen because the oil was to thick and started sludging up within a 3000 mile range
The MAIN thing is to have all the oil you need in the engine. It helps if it's clean. after that it's just a fine point on a sharp pencil. I drive older stuff, with plenty of clearances, and the runny numbers "evaporate" most quickly from the crankcase, plus it rarely gets super cold down here. Good video.
My older vehicles definitely run thicker oils, However even my high mileage newer vehicles use factory spec. So many newer engines have such small oil passages that thicker oils restrict flow and cause starvation. Sucks because other parts with wear clearances could sure use the thicker stuff.
What I’ve always found interesting is how manufactures recommend different weight oils for identical vehicles with identical engines in different markets. For example my SVT Focus is recommended 5w-20 in the USA but 5w-30 in Europe. My Mazda Skyactiv-G 2-5l NA is recommended 0w-20 in USA and Canada, and 0w-16 in Japan, which has almost identical climate swings to the continental USA, and interestingly, 5w-20 in Mexico, which presumably doesn’t even need Winter-certified oil, or thin starting weight for that matter.
@@Broeils wow, never actually thought about that but you’re probably right. Good chance the regulatory bodies in different countries have different standards.
@@emotionz3 there's also different emissions regulations in different areas, and oil choice can impact emissions testing, and they probably have to test with the recommended oil.
@@emotionz3 No, the oils sold have the same composition - if they are meeting the same standards. And since they are shipped World Wide - such and such Penzoil Platinum Full Synthetic - 5w-30 will have exactly the same spec's anywhere.
@@daves7775 Many manufacturers order their oils in local refineries. Unless they control every batch, you do not really know if the oil meets the original specs. Only few companies produce their oils 100% by themselves and ship it worldwide
It would be interesting to see a comparison between some of the newer "Hybrid Engine Oils" (Mobil1, Valvoline) compared against their "Regular" variants. Maybe add some tests with impurities/fuel dilution to see how they hold up? Always love your content!
Miss the oil test videos. I know you can only test so much so many different ways but glad to see another classic from you Project Farm. Love the oil test videos 😂❤
I switched to 5w30 from 0w20 last year. Mobil 1. Car makers want higher mileage numbers at the cost of the engine. I also change my oil often and earlier than recommended. I live in the South. No cold weather. Good test. Thank you
@@moshet842 With an air cooled engine in 25c+ weather, I'll stick to using the higher viscosity. There may be not much of a difference, but the 10w40 oils here in the UK are considerably cheaper and have slight better protection. It's a no brainer.
It also doesn't make sense to use the total weight lost since the starting weights are never exactly the same. Percent lost is the what we actually want to know.
Blows my mind that all hybrid powertrains recommend 0w20 - 0w16 for the engine side assist. Looks like ill be blending some 5w into mine. Thank you for getting right to the point with tangible results and sharing it with everyone. ❤
Not just for efficiency, hybrids especially plug in require thinner oil. Imagine this, you’re stuck in traffic for a while and only using electric power. Once the traffic is clear and you put your foot down, the cold engine kicks in for power. But the thick oil doesn’t flow quite easily as the thin oil does when cold, you end up damaging the engine even more
@@Dankboi420 if you love in the cold sure everywhere south of the mason Dixon line here in the states is usually above 30 degrees after spring they never go below 80 in Texas until winter
The most important part of the video was at the end differ to the OEM recommendation on oil viscosity. Don’t just throw a 0w16 at your engine if it calls for a 10w40. If you live in a hotter climate use the higher viscosity of oil recommended if it’s colder vice versa. The only thing you should probably take into question is the oil change intervals especially with forced induction engines.
Thanks for all the effort you put in your videos, maybe you can include a 20W-50 and 15W-50 in a future video, here in Brazil 20W-50 is very common because of older cars and hot weather.
Same here in South Africa. I would also like to see how the oils in this video do at high temperature on the wear tester. To simulate using it in 30-40 centigrade.
Love the channel but the oil stuff is pretty much beaten down. Hes probably done a dozen over the years and you can only test so much additives and hot/cold viscosity.
Toyota is now using 0W8 in the new hybrid engines, BMW is also using 0W12 is some of their new ones too. Crazy! Even more important to keep the oil fresh in those engines!
It‘s an awesome video as always. For the car guys, keep in mind that modern cars are usually equipped with an oil-cooler that helps keeping the viscosity stable and the evaporation rate low. That results in different operating conditions between the low viskosity stuff and the multi-grade stuff.
Oil cooler isn't gonna do much to the extreme temps the oil sees above the oil control ring. 0w-16 and 0w-20 is all epa bullshit so cars can get like 1 mpg better at the expense at blowing up right after the warranty expires.
My understanding is that most of the wear occurs on a dry start up, before the oil arrives to the overhead valve train. That's why the friction tester wheel is coated with oil prior to testing. Wouldn't the much faster cold flow of the 0W-16 more than compensate for the decreased wet protection? Especially in vehicles driven short distances?
There's a large factor that never gets discussed, and that is thermal expansion. An engines machined clearances are tested and engineered to be correct --- at full temp. The bearing clearances are effectively incorrect at cooler temps, and accounts for much of start up wear.
It all depends on your oil pump, ocv(vvt actuators) and the phasers driven off those if applicable. If the pump has a massive pressure build the car will take thinner oil, if you use 10-w30 in a 0-w16 itll boost oil pressure so much it wont register phasers appropriately. However running 0-16 in a 10-30 you wont have enough oil pressure causing lubrication issues... Hope this is helpful.
It would probably be very difficult to do, but being able to test wear resistance while the oil is very hot would be cool. Them being at room temperature is closer to winter viscosity than hot viscosity. I wonder if they would be closer at those higher temps.
Problem is the manufacturer doesn’t always have the customer in mind. They often engineer things to bring in more service otherwise their goal would be longevity but longevity doesn’t keep stealerships happy.
You make an excellent point. I think manufacturers can be trusted as far as which viscosity to use but the oil change intervals is where they get you. My recommendation is to use the viscosity they call for but under no circumstance would I wait for an oil life monitor to tell me its time for a service.
I agree. I’ll put more trust in the recommendation of the man who fixes the broken car than the recommendation of the one who designed it to break at a pre determined point.
Started using a synthetic 5W-30 in the mid 1980's. My dad said I was crazy to put such a thin oil in my car! After about 200,000 miles I gave him the car and he drove it for years.
Great video. Because VVT and oiling systems in vehicles are getting a lot more sensitive, it is important to use the oil the engine was designed for. Even if it seems too thin. I am a Toyota mechanic, a lot of the newer Toyotas are going to 0W-16. They started around 2018 with the Camry, and since then I’ve seen several get to 200,000 miles and they don’t burn a drop of oil.
I use the recommended 0w16 in my 2021 Corolla 6spd hatch. I use 80W90 GL4 (not recommended) for gearbox oil. I haven't had any issues. 75W seems like a waste of money if you change it out every 25k miles.
As shown on the bearing test the 5W-30 had the least amount of wear. Protect your engine. The only reason the 5W-20,0w-20 and 0W-16 exist is due to the EPA push for higher mpg standards. I had relatives working at auto factories that saw the EPA reports mandating it.
I was wondering about that. My 2014 Toyota Prado lists a range of oils to use given the max/min temperature, and you can basically use anything when in the range of 0-40 deg. c
I believe hybrid vehicles especially plug in hybrids require thinner oil. Since the engine is not always running, thinner oil flows better at lower temp
I have a question though. Does engine wear happen mostly when cold starting? And if it is so, what kind of tests would reflect the effects of viscosity on engine wear? An idea comes to mind, start/stopping the wheel 100 times without pre-oiling them. Would that be more reflective of real world circumstances?
It only makes sense that a thinner oil will provide less protection from wear. I always used 10W30 (I'm 81 and pretty set in my ways), but I have never had car that called for these thin oils. My vehicle is a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the straight 6 cylinders. It has 240,000 miles on it and I have only used 10W30 in it, which is getting harder to find.
I love all your videos it’s definitely helped me make some buying decisions in the past. Just a suggestion though I’d love to see you add the bearing test with the cold oils to the videos. Best way I could think to simulate starting your car in the cold of winter and letting it warm up before driving.
The high wear rates in a real world engine when it is cold are likely due in part to the presence of condensed water and liquid fuel removing some of the oil film from engine wear areas. Especially the upper cylinder and piston rings. @@ProjectFarm
I think you said it best at the end. Your recommendation is to use the oil the manufacturer recommends. I'm old school and my car calls for 0-16 oil. It's hard for me to do, but I do.
@@corruption1724 From listening to engine racing techs, they said you use a thicker oil because it becomes thinner as temps rise and act like a thinner oil. I would believe if you are just driving back and forth to work and store you wont have to worry too much tho.
- Indeed. Under normal driving conditions and of course with proper maintenance of the car, we should not worry too much about the oil if it matches the specs. In my Beemer X5 3.0D = Shell Helix Ultra, it is equivalent to the Penz. Furthermore, I only recommend XL Boosted from Amsoil, absolutely top quality, smoother engine, visco is maintained, temperature of the engine remains optimal. Etc. To buy!@@wanglee21
Your videos are amazing and like another viewer said all the time and effort you put into your videos is hard work. Thanks for comparing these products because they definitely save me a lot of money 😊
Lighter weight oils are only used to squeak out some slight efficiency gains. They just don't provide as much protection to the engine components as the traditional 5w-30 oil (as the bearing test clearly showed) and thinner oils will sneak past seals and cause the engine to start burning oil and piddle on your driveway a lot quicker than 5w-30. If you ask the EPA; apparently burning oil and nuking an engine prematurely is fine and dandy as long as you can save 1/2 mpg in the process.
yes, i still use 10w40 oil and it is maybe most used here in finland, 5w40 is better for daily use in winter time but... i saw how it turns in 2 years without oil change.. it was like water lol :D
When you have a chance, watch a video on the new Toyota 2.5L motor that I think was the first to use 0W16. They have been using this oil in Japan for a while before it came to the US. With Toyota's tight tolerances and low friction motor, I believe 0W16 has more than enough viscosity for their motor. If it didn't, you'd see quite a bit of metal in the oil and oil filter, which isn't the case.
Awesome content as always. One word of caution though. The OEM oil pressure gauges on cars are not always accurate by design. Some operate like on/off switches and are there to just report any pressure. As an example miatas are notorious for this.
Love these oil videos! Incredibly thorough! Wouldn't mind seeing more two-stroke comparison whether it's oil ratio or oil types at wide open throttle. Even some oil additives for decoking would be interesting to see!
This is a great channel! As someone who builds race engines for a living I would strongly suggest staying with the recommended oil viscosity. The clearences in modern engines are very tight compared to 10years ago. Going from 0W16 to 5W30 can cause accelerated wear on bearings, piston to wall issues and piston rings. Great test, keep them coming please.
@@edbaczewski2959 I love how people are always looking for any reason why low viscosity oil is better. The truth is that it is not because viscosity is always closely related to lubricating properties. In the eighties, the standard was 15w40, in the nineties, 10W40, etc. And everything worked great, including the variable valve timing, which was recently 50 years old, even though the world only knows it from the end of the 80s. Since then, every car manufacturer has named it after themselves, for example Vanos from BMW. .
Did that older truck have low tension piston rings, or GDI? If it's older than say the 90s, they didn't. So these newer cars will need that crap 0w20 in the winter, and it's probably safe to use 10w30 in the summer, I do...
After Brian at FordTechMakuLoco recommended full synthetic 5w30 (he likes the penzoil platinum full synthetic) for my F150 with a 5.4L 3V engine, I definitely switched over from the factory-recommended 5w20 blend. He likes the heavier oil because it sticks to the rockers and other parts in the top of the engine.
Thats why i switched in my jeep wrangler with the 3.6l pentastar, they are known to have some oil filter housing and rocker arm issues. I think the heavier oil will help out! They magically switched in 2013 to the 5w20.... probably for fucking CAFE gas mileage bullshit
summer here exceeds over 45c. Engines without active oil cooling suffer. I prefer my 10w60 even if i have to wait a bit at mornings. At winters, a 5w40 is perfectly fine for our climate. We never had too cold winters to use 0w oil grades. (Greece) i might say that even 5w is way too low for our winter
Me personally, I've always seen oil choice a extremely suggestive based on location of majority driving, how heavily the vehicle is being abused, and MOST IMPORTANTLY, the milage on the motor. Unfortunately, with all the new tech and sophistication that comes along with it, drivers just seem to not be able to get that chance of choosing anymore. However, with car enthusiasts like me who are interested in cars thar are as old, if not older than us, we still have pretty much all the freedom to choose. These videos are a tremendous help to people like me, keep cranking out what ever you can find but. Helps all of us one way or another in the ultimate long run.
Wish you would do a comparison of all 0w16 oil and see how it stacks up against penzoil ultra platinum 0w20. Toyota says you can run 0w20 if 0w16 isn't available but you must switch back to 0w16 on the next oil change. Any explanation? Would 0w20 give better protection with film strength? What if we continued use of 0w20 and neglected to go back to 0w16? What harm if any could be done.
Ow oil vis is the EPA leading you to very short engine life. My next oil change happening next week- Hemi Jeep spec shows 5W-30. Moving up to 10W-30 to quiet the ticking lifters and thicken up during the 100° temps here.
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
Here’s the list of products reviewed. More details in the video description. Thank you!
Pennzoil 0W-16: amzn.to/3Bea68x
Pennzoil 0W-20: amzn.to/42kB8XI
Pennzoil 5W-20: amzn.to/41qbW0A
Pennzoil 5W-30: amzn.to/3MelNCl
can you do wear test at 40F to get an idea which one wears out most at cold start up ?
most important piece which is overlooked is lack of oil pressure. Shoot oil on grinding wheel with pressure of 30psi. which will allow more flow of thinner oils and may show lesser wear if more volume of thinner oil is disbursed over rotating disc.
The amount of effort and time you put into these videos for mundane everyday products is honestly unparalleled on the entire Internet. You sir are a hero for the everyday man.
Thank you very much!
This channel is certainly useful and APPRECIATED!
Agree
This channel deserves more subscribers.
Mundane? These products are very interesting
I love that you are straight to the point , no fluff. No sponsors. Just raw information quick as not to lose anyone’s attention span. You’ve built a great channel.
He's like Consumer Reports for TH-cam.
@@turn-n-burn1421and the best part is when you've already bought something and then he does a comparison video it's nice to get confirmation after the fact you bought a decent product
@@turn-n-burn1421 Honestly, I trust Project Farm even more than Consumer Reports. You can tell a lot more about one man's integrity than you can about a company with lots of people. You never know when someone's biases might sway a Consumer Report article, or any other article, for that matter. You can see and hear an honest appraisal when you watch these videos. Just fantastic information!
@@Techprep23That's a very good point! I know that it sure works like that for me! I feel a little bummed out on occasion when I made the "wrong choice" because I didn't know as much when I bought whatever than after watching these great videos. And I feel all smart and stuff when I found out that my pre-purchase research and purchase choice turned out to be the best one that I could have made, or at least the best one that I could afford to buy. This channel is the bomb!
Thanks!
I'm not being hyperbolic when I say the world would be a better place if everyone watched this channel. This man is a national treasure.
True. And he does NOT waste our time. Dang! Condensed hard valuable info.
Thanks!
This man is phenomenal great job
@@ProjectFarm If you do another motor oil viscosity vs wear comparison, please consider making an equal parts mixture of 5W-20 synthetic and 5W-30 synthetic oils. If the wear scar decreases from that of the 5W-20 oil, but is also greater than the wear scar of the 5W-30 oil, then this empirically verifies that the wear rate of 5W-30 is not a fluke and that the wear rate is definitely better. Thank you.
@@ProjectFarm keep up your great service... from Asia
What I love about this channel is he gets right to the point and no cringe intro and long explanations that are superfluous, it’s quick, coherent and easily understandable throughout the entire video and you never skip a part because it’s everything you need to know in every second. Not to mention there aren’t any cringe sponsors and what not.
Thanks!
i just wish he wouldn’t speak so fast and loud that’s just me tho
Nothing but content. No wasted words. No dead spots. And you sure can talk fast!!
Don't stop doing what you're doing!!
One of my top reasons why I love this channel so much. Time wasted = 0!
Good editing helps too.
Thanks!
When I saw that Jimmy Buffett passed away, I had my phone play "Margaritaville" while I got ready. I was in the shower when I heard some idiot talking, poked out my head, and it was an ad--after a 3-minute video, which had an ad before it.
It was some young and fit guy telling me that I could answer a couple quick questions, learn my body type, and learn how to best lose weight.
I answered some questions and he claimed that he just had a quick video to solve all of my problems--and talked for perhaps 30 minute.
I got dressed, did 30 push-ups, and drove at least 20 minutes before the guy finally finished talking.
1. Carb cycling
2. Eat healthy fats
3. Do HIIT 3 times a week for 15 minutes
4. Pay him hundreds of dollars.
@@drippingwax How much wax are you dripping, my guy? This isn't related to the video at all...
As an Alaskan, I'd love to see the -40 oil put into the wear tester to see how they perform when put to work in extreme cold. If nothing else it'd be a great video to show the importance of winterizing your vehicle (Transmission heat pad, Oil pan heat pad, Block heat plug to heat coolant, Trickle charger/battery blanket).
We tend to run thin oils here cause the winters are so cold. Fairbanks Area.
Thank you for the video idea!
im still waiting to see the power steering video. I live in the Montana mountains, and -30 isn't uncommon; then add on I have a leak, and I want to see how different power steering fluids handle
sadly I don't have the money or power outlets so I can winterize my truck in any helpful way bc I cant go out and start it up every day due to gas prices
Yikes I can imagine how cold it gets up In Alaska… I’m from the upper Midwest and luckily it still 95° here. 😅
An interesting thought, but I think it would make essentially no difference.
Ya it'll start out at -40, but the friction will heat it up FAST.
It's not like you wreck your engine with a cold/dry start one time, it's doing it hundreds, or thousands of times that gives you issues.
I guess you could swap the wear part to a softer metal and perform a shorter test, to try and compensate?
How do you survive up there? As a Canadian, I can get used to -30⁰C
This fella puts a ton of time and effort into each of his videos. Very impressive. Possibly the best test shop in the world.
Thanks!
@@ProjectFarm hey can you test the best product for stopping rust on the cars underside?
Love your videos!!
And he doesn't even use a stunt double.
And his pouring is top notch .
@@R5555.would be a good video but it would need to be long term at least a year to re evaluate
I love how nonchalant this man is. He has possibly the most positive comment section in the entirety of TH-cam in all of his videos and he always answers with a: Thanks!
Never change 🗣️
Thanks!
That is a bot response.
@@matrixist😂😂😂
@@matrixist Stop leaving botted replies
@@thevalorousdong7675 aint botted if you go down the section you'll find many different responses
Sure seems like the oil manufacturer added more additives to the 0w-16 to try and offset the increased wear of such a thin oil. Thank you for another informative test.
Exactly!
That’s what Toyota uses and they are known for reliability and longevity
Unless the heavier rated oils stick to metal surfaces the heavier oil has a disadvantage when cold. With most wear taking place upon start-up the 0-16 has an advantage in this respect.
@@michaelbassett5105 Honda uses 0W16 on some models I think I heard as well.
Efficiency is good when you own it, longevity is better for the next owner
I'm retired but worked for a company that developed the micro-finishing film that most engine manufacturers adapted. There was extreme focus on the micro-scratch surface left by the finishing materials and very distinct to the design of a particular engine. There was much more engineering and research on this aspect than one might assume. When the manufacturer recommends a specific oil type and viscosity range, they have some well researched reasons for their recommendations. Modern, low-friction piston ring design also factors into what the manufacturer tells us we should be using.
Thanks for the feedback.
You said what I came to say.
EPA probably is the most reason for the low vis oil and high mile oil change intervals.
@@DISOPtvexactly. Thinner oil gives better gas mileage. You’re trading off longevity for efficiency.
The engineers only job is to build an engine that is more efficient than previous generations. That’s all they care about. They only need it to outlast the warranty.
@@screaminlead I was just going to recommend the Total Seal videos on engine surface finishes as well.
Friction reduction has seemingly lost to fuel efficiency when it comes to the purpose of oils. I still run "thick" oil in the summer and lighter oil in the winter, glad to know that lessons from Papa still hold up🤙
Thanks for sharing.
I lived in Ohio. I had an 85 Ford F250 with the 6.9 IDI diesel engine. Ran 20w50 in the summer and 10w40 in the winter. No blow by 👌🏻
That logic checks out, I would be concerned about sludge buildup if you aren't really getting the engine up to operating temp for a sustained period of time. All oils do it, synthetic or conventional but synthetic seems to degrade worse in subpar conditions from what I've seen. Be well and make sure to keep your oil changes often and frequent...oil is cheap-ish while engines and repair bills are anything but🤙
I don't think "friction" as he tests it here really is how the engine sees friction. One thing he hasn't tested is "pumpability" when cold or hot. Probably way exceeds his method of testing for friction.
I could be wrong but I believe he has created a "backyard" version of the actual tests conducted industry wide🤷
With that said, the ability to pump the goo around at various viscosity levels is planned out heavily by manufacturers...unless you have minus 50°c for a month and freeze your coolant all should be fine under your hood👍
6:25 yes! Thanks for letting people know this. Also the "S" that they have dropped off the end (10w30s) stood for Summer. Before multi viscosity oils folks would change viscosities for hot and cold seasons.
I remember my previous car (a 04 Seat Leon Cupra R) having such a note in its manual. It had the old oils in it you needed to change between summer and winter and the newer multi viscosity ones.
I love how clearly you speak, how little time you waste (see example: none) in getting the information down, and honestly, I can tell you really enjoy cracking these questions open. One of the best channels on TH-cam period, not just by genre, but entirely. Keep having fun, I'll keep watching!
Thanks so much!
I have to disagree. As someone with hearing impairment, his rapid speech is hard to follow. If I use the subtitles, then I'm forced to maintain a focus on the subtitles and lose most of the video. But I still love the channel. @@ProjectFarm
Ever think about watching twice? I'm dyslexic, low IQ, ADD, hearing impaired & have poor eyesight so l replay stop and make notes so l can get the message. This is one of if not the best channels for information.
@@FrankenDoctor With all due respect, I have hearing impairment as well, with my midrange that is human voice basically causing it to sound muffled. Mr. Project Farm's voice seems to work just fine for me and I have no issue understanding him. I know it sounds like Mr. Obvious but I try to keep videos at a higher than normal volume level as it does help with the comprehension. You can also find a playback device that allows you to play with the equalization.
@@FrankenDoctorTry playing the videos at .75x speed.
9:32 The manufacturer doesn't always recommend "the best" oil, they will often recommend the oil that best meets EPA specs for mpg. Case in point, Ford's 5.4L 3-valve which officially calls for 5W20, but has incorrect pressure with it (too low) and works/lasts much longer when running on 5W30.
Thanks for the feedback.
I love how you always explain the standards you are working against so every video can be watched as a standalone. Makes it easier to share the video with the folks I discuss them with.
Thanks!
Thx u so much I’ve been waiting for this review!
The best automotive channel for me, straight to the point, no click bait, no gimmick, no weird music 😎
Thanks!
Great to see someone finally put evidence behind the anecdote. Sacrifice a tiny bit of fuel economy and get a FAR longer lasting engine. I run 20w30 in my Ls1 statesman and it's got over 500,000kms on it. Doesn't burn oil, never smokes and has never been rebuklt
Thanks!
@damnnyiffers oil weight is just one factor. There is also how it is driven(harsh winters? Hot summers? lots of stop and go city driving? Lots of highway driving? Lots of idle time or very little? Etc), and oil change frequency.
@@steve8803 oil weight is by far the most important factor for conventional engines which do not specify 0w16 or lower. once you get into 0w16 the viscosity is not the most important consideration, bearing surface treatment technology reigns supreme.
My Skoda Octavia from 2018 has 200 000km and I am running 0W30, every 8000km change with all the filters. Runs like brand new - no smoke, no oil consuption, some friends told me "dude it can not be stock". Yes it is. I am adding Ceratec or MOS2 from LM on each oil change as well.
I’ve set it before and I’ll say it again. Hands down best TH-cam channel I’ve found. No long intros, no selling merch, just straight to the point in under 10 min.
Thanks!
Yes! I requested this topic. Thanks so much for testing this.
"Project farm” and "The Car Care Nut” are National Treasures. Let’s all pray for these two guys to live up to 100 years healthy.
Thanks!
Don't think anyone has ever commented on this, but the tight vocal editing, is always a plus point, and I appreciate it. Your videos are concise, informative, and still yet through.
Thanks so much!
Awesome test as usual! I still believe the CAFE requirements have a lot to do with manufacturer selection. Obviously, I would want a "thinner oil" in a very cold climate during start-up.
However.... my 22-yr. old Buick calls for 10w-30 and I don't have any inclination to use anything else! Thanks for the tests!
I use 0w-40 even at -15°F, no problem whatsoever.
I use 15-40 in the summer and 5-30 in the winter, both full synthetic. 320,000 miles and not a tick from the lifters and it doesn’t burn a drop. Leaks a bit but not enough to get worked up about. I have to top it off maybe 1 or 2 times between changes and I do 10k plus changes. And top it off means IT’s just touching the low line and I like it at the maximum mark. More oil equals better cooling from it.
I have used conventional/semi-synthetic 10w-30 in every vehicle I've owned in the last 21 years and have never owned a vehicle that didn't last 400,000 miles or more. I have done this regardless of the manufacturers specification. All of these vehicles succumbed to rust or driver-induced failure...no engine failed because of my choice of oil. That said, I changed my oil religiously at 3k or 5k miles (3k for conventional and 5k for synthetic). I also DROVE my vehicles. I beat on them and/or I drove them for significant periods of time to evaporate the condensation in the oil.
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I used 5w30 in -30f and it worked fine. It started a little slow but I think that was more battery 0w30 felt about the same.
I agree it is all CAFE even 0w16 cars here recommend 0w20 to 10w30 in other countries. People try to say the engine was specifically engineered for oil that thin. If it was then the manufacturer wouldn't also recommend 10w30. Engine clearances have been the same for a long time. Tolerances have gotten smaller (less variation) and the finish is better but the actual clearances are about the same. Todd's new truck having half the oil pressure also supports this, same size holes thinner oil = lower pressure.
Companies care about profit and they lose money if they don't meet CAFE numbers. If thinner oil reduces total engine life but gets a better CAFE number of course they will do that.
Next year CAFE is 51 mpg cars, 36.6 mpg trucks and 45 mpg combined. For every 0.1mpg under those numbers they have to pay $5.5 per vehicle produced.
Miss the number by 1 mpg and you make 1.8 million cars (Toyota or Ford) thats $99 million dollars lost. Wonder why they are looking into 0w8 oil?
Longevity is not always or is never the primary goal.
One of the greatest services provided by this gentleman is encouraging people to think critically and objectively. These videos belong in every engineering curriculum.
Thanks!
You're the absolute best at independent product testing. I work in quality assurance, and I find your DOE to be top notch. Thank you!
Thanks!
My last oil change on my 2016 Silverado, I mixed 0w-20 and 5w-30. The truck runs noticeable smoother. Next time it will be all 5w-30. Cold flow isn't a consideration as I live in the desert of Arizona.
If the car is older, you can use 10W40 in hot climate
I thought about doing the same on my JL wrangler... just to be safe....
After watching this video and forums....
My first oil change is coming up at 1500 and want to give it a head start on engine life by doing an early first change. And I live in Florida so it's rarely frigid here maybe a couple months of below 45* nights
@@wailingalenPersonally, my opinion on a new vehicle is to stay with the oil viscosity recommended by the manufacturer and what is says in the owner manual. Sometimes manufacturers will list more than 1 viscosity based on temps and usage, but usually it is just 1. If you use an oil that is not recommended and you end up with an engine problem under warranty, the dealer will void the warranty. And unfortunately today, manufacturers have more problems with new engines than you would think. Maybe you don't want to wait until the warranty is over, but it may be good to wait for a year or 2 and/or 15,000 miles or so... just to make sure. Also, if you can I would stay with the winter grade and only increase the grade for the hot weather viscosity. In other words, if it says 0W-20, think about 0W-30, or instead of 5W-20, go with 5W-30. You just don't want a high viscosity when you first start the car and before it is warmed up... I'm glad you are changing the oil at 1500 miles. Manufacturers say it is not necessary any longer, but I do that as well... Change the oil often and use a good filter; change fluids every 3 - 5 years or so; keep the air filter fresh; use fuel system cleaner (i like Chevron Techron); and drive it right... and it will last a very long time. I still drive a 22 year old Acura that runs like new with 238k miles on it..
Its important to remember that some newer cars have very thin oil galleries. Its not just about wear its about getting the oil through the galleries. If your oil is too thick and can't get through the galleries properly it doesn't matter how much wear protection it has cause your car will be getting very little oil on key components. .
@@mm-jx7gf you might want to be prudent with the fuel system cleaner, it's been shown to drop lubricity in your engine oil whilst it's in the system.
This is hands down the #1 most useful channel on TH-cam. I've learned so much from you.
Thanks so much!
I'd argue it's the most useful for analysing oil and tools etc... But that's it. I'd give Kurzgesagt the prize for most useful overall
@@StephenDeTomasi Kurzgesagt is extremely educational, but 99% of what they teach is not actionable. This channel gives education that makes an impact on my daily life.
I just LOVE all the efforts and details taken to make all your tests. Kudos and keep them coming.
Thanks, will do!
When you do oil tests it might be interesting to include the all-time best and worst performers on the charts at the end of each test (maybe give them a faded out color to set them apart). This would give some overall context to the small selection being tested.
Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm I'll +1 this one, sometimes I would love to know what the all time best in category is so I can go buy the best.
Project Farm is a true America treasure ! Thank you Sir for these fantastic tests.
You are a blessing. 👍
Thanks so much!
World treasure.
Your dedication to these tests are incredible! thanks for all you do.
Thanks and you are welcome!
You can not appreciate this mans attention to detail enough until you've seen hundreds of videos trying to be scientific but failing miserably. No 'whats', 'ifs' and 'whens' were left behind. The questions posed are always answered and in a short and to the point manner. You, Sir, are very appreciated. Thank You!
Thanks so much!
Great test. I never run a 20 weight in a turbo charged engine but that's where the manufacturers are going because of CAFE averages. I realize you have to tell people to follow the manufacturers recommendations because of the liability issue but they really don't care how long your engine lasts as long as it makes it past the warranty period. VW had a 7 year or 70 thousand mile warranty before they switched to 0W-20. Then they dropped the warranty to 4 years or 50 thousand miles. They wouldn't have done that unless they don’t have faith in the oil they're recommending.
Exactly what I was saying yesterday. Glad others are catching on the gimmick. Also don't trust the engine oil life indicator light. Just use full synthetic engine oil and change it at least twice a year even if you don't drive over the mileage limit.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
VW has a 6/72K warranty for only 2018 and 2019 model years. They did it to help potential buyers feel good about the company again. Remember that they got caught cheating on their diesel emissions. They were fined and had to buy back cars from their customers (or provide other remedies). It had nothing to do with 0W20 motor oil.
If you look at the reason VW motors fail, it's not for lack of lubrication. Most times it's due to overheating. Their cooling system is overly complex and there are many places a coolant leak can occur. I've blown up two 2.0L VW motors in the past 4 years. Coolant leaks and runs low, then the motor overheats. Of course not temp gauge, so by the time the dummy light comes on, the motor is cooked!
Eurocars need a 30 or 40 weight period.
Their engines are not build for thinner oils.
@@alouisschafer7212 5W40 synthetic is recommended on most newer European cars, or at least it was.
Thanks for a great video! My 2002 5.3 Silverado has 358,000 miles, 5w-30 year round, non synthetic oil, and never had engine apart.
Wow. How often do you change the oil and are you in a cold climate?
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
@kanyeeastlolz Yes, Minnesota actually. All my vehicles.. every 3300 miles. So 10k miles, change it 3 times. Then, every 10k,
rotate tires and drain trans oil (trans pan drain plug 4 quarts come out). It is sooo cheap to do this. I'm 65, retired, my dad taught me this since high school. I have always used Castrol gtx non synthetic. Just my .02 sharing.
@@ronlind1757 Conventional oils do fine at 3k mile oil changes, but, Supertech full synthetic is $18 for 5 qts, and you can easily go 5k OCIs. It's also a superior oil, I don't waste my time with anything not full synthetic.
@@lonniebeal6032 You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
This channel should be considered a national treasure.
not only can I not tell you how many PF videos I have watched, but I have watched MANY of them more than once.
Such a good channel.
Another well done video much appreciated!😊
If you consider it, it is!
Thanks so much!
I believe Project Farm is recognized unofficially at least as the goto for product test results because of his scientific method, testing multiple ways, and objectively stated results.
*International treasure
Greetings from Germany :)
Have you heard valvoline's new oil's claim to "restore pistons to factory clean" and protect them. That's a bold claim. Would love to see how they are against your top 2, amsoil and pennzoil with standard mobil 1
Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarmplease do it
Yes, this i really want to see
@@ProjectFarmPlease test this oil. I would like to see the collection of particles in the oil filter. That is the biggest concern I have heard of on a dirty engine. If you test it split and weigh the oil filters! Love your videos👍
Additives make a huge difference on wear. It would be interesting to also do a test with bearing material instead of, or in addition to, the test wheel & pin you are using. I'm pretty sure that is what oil companies tailor there additives to.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I'd also like to see it be done under pressure somehow, since this is how the engines runs.
These pins are often made from a standard ball bearing steel. 100Cr6 or 52100 I think is the yankee name. ;)
@@jackmclane1826 yes, but that’s not what rod and cam bearings are made of.
Valve lifters/tappets,cam lobes,piston rings/upper cylinder walls,also timing chain links/rollers. Ball pivots used under rocker arms and pushrod tips.
Some cam drive chains and sprockets may be larger/better than the minimum practice,also some modern engines use "roller lifters" to try to reduce demands on lubrication but then there is the axle that the roller rolls on !
The oils are constrained by the fact that the EPA does not like a lot of antiwear additive(s) because of the idea that if the engine is burning a bit more oil than desirable the additive might poison the catalytic converter. I believe EPA has even found a way to spread that to Diesel engine oil requirements. So that obsolete SG rated oil from a few years ago may have had better antiwear performance under adverse conditions than today's oils although such standards as "GF-6" or "GF-6A" are an attempt to come up with oil that will offer adequate protection even with the EPA not allowing much of traditional antiwear additive.
I believe the super long oil change distances being advertised by the car makers today are pushing the oil far beyond what is safe. I believe that the additives wear out. A broken in engine is easier to lubricate in my opinion than a brand new one.
ideally the connecting rod and crankshaft main bearings are "floated" in oil most of the time that the engine is running.
Very interesting! As an old timer it's hard for me to wrap my head around the idea that you should use the same 0w-20 motor oil whether you live on a permanent glacier where anything above freezing is considered a heatwave, or, like myself, you live in desert where you put on a sweater when temps drop below 80. I'm going to need more than just a manufacturer recommending that, because as an ex dealer tech I've seen manufacturers recommend some pretty stupid things over the years. Things that are designed to make them money, not extend the life of the vehicle. And before y'all start typing, remember that oil temp and coolant temps are NOT the same thing.
Id say in the end it comes down to the actual oil temp.
The higher they climb = the thinner the oil gets its as simple as that
If you open your owners manual it will have alternate oils than what's on the cap.
My 18 f150 says 5w30 on the cap, but in the manual 5w40 is still in the temperature range... (although 5w30 would be better for me in winter).
If you run a block heater 24/7 then your engine never cools down and your oil doesn't break down the viscosity
I can get 10,000 miles between oil changes if I use a block heater
@@thecloneguyz running a block heater 24/7 is absolutely insane.
You are wasting more money on electricity than changing your oil every month.
Thanks for the feedback.
Another great video. I'm old school and always thought a thicker oil was the way to go but I'm changing my thoughts a bit on the matter. I was always a 15w 40 guy in everything even small engines. I've never had an engine fail using it but sometimes colder starts were a problem. Then the 5w 40 diesel oils came out and I slowly switched everything to that. Boy did it make a difference in everything especially the diesels. I've come to the opinion that unless the engine is under maximum load and at high temperature all the time the thicker oils may not be necessary. Also oil pressure is an indicator of resistance to flow. So low oil pressure doesn't necessarily mean the engine is not getting oil. Engineering is constantly trying to improve fuel economy and I think that is a major factor, but also I think modern engines using thinner oils have a much higher oil pump volume to try to keep things cool. It's hard for an older guy to get his head wrapped around a 1.5 4 cylinder stock engine producing 250+ hp. Most all auto engines have oil coolers today and that says something. More power in a small package turning higher rpms and a turbo or 2 make a lot of heat and thinner oils flowing faster pick up more heat and carry it away for cooling . Sorry long winded but I'm always trying to learn and understand
I think you will find most modern engines employ a coolant to oil heat exchanger, not just an oil cooler.
newer engines usually have a cylinder that's purposely designed to be micro porous, it means they actually hold onto thinner oils but struggle with thicker ones, couple this with reduced friction piston rings, tighter journals , oil passageways and bore sprayers designed specifically for thinner oils to flow through them it makes it a bad idea to put thicker oils in them. Even though the thicker oil itself is technically a better lubricator when put in a modern engine it actually lubricates worse and can potentially even cause issues.
Another thing to note is that a lot of new economy engines are direct injection which usually results in more carbon build up around the valves over time so using a thicker oil with less additives could increase the amount of carbon build up over time.
@@axeami1354 this all makes sense but then Toyota will specify 5w-20 in Europe and 0w-16 in the US for the same engine. If everything else were equal wouldn’t it make sense to equalize the oil specifications? Others reflexively scream CAFE but I’m not so sure
You grasped a lot of things most struggle with, a lighter oil doesn't necessarily mean less protection, because oil flow plays a lot into it.
@@tjm3900 exactly, it warms the oil in cooler weather. Also aids in bringing engine up to stable temperature. I was going to mention it but I figured I was a little long winded as it was
We get the Reader's Digest version--informative, to the point, important facts, and a clear presentation. Well done. Three million subscribers and continuing to climb.
Thanks!
I never heard of 0W-16 oil before this video. But these tests and this whole channel are amazing.
Well new yaris used 0w-8, you are just behind the times a bit.
I'd love to see a video about the advantages and disadvantages of running very thick oils like 15w50 for extreme duty
Disadvantages would be fuel economy and flow issues in colder weather
Thanks for the suggestion.
I run 20w 50 in my hotrod and in the high performance engine in my boat. Both are only used in summer months. I use 10w 30 in my other two Mustangs.
I tried 20W50 in an old '79 Plymouth Horizon I had. The engine needed a valve job and was burning oil. One day the temp dropped and the starter could barely turn the engine over.
@@gadgethunter5732 thats what happened when I had it in my old BMW during the winter
Dear Project Farm,
Thank you for the informative videos that have real world application.
If I may suggest the following:
1. Calculate the weight loss due to evaporation as a percentage of the total initial weight.
2. Weigh the pins before and after and calculate percentage lost due to wear.
I look forward to many new videos.
You are welcome! Thanks for the constructive feedback.
We own a 2012 KIA Sorento, & a 2023 KIA Sportage. On the Sorento, I use 5W-30 in the cool months, & 10W-30 in the summer. On the Sportage, I use 5W-20 during the cool months, & 5W-30 during the summer months. BTW, we live at Puerto Rico, and summers get awfully hot.
Thanks for the feedback.
A two stroke oil shoot-out like synthetic vs conventional vs caster bean oil would be awesome to see!
Make sure the 'gum up' factor is included. Castor oils gum up power valves badly.
Thanks for the suggestion.
It may start on fire. Somebody on TH-cam tried olive oil and that happened.🔥
@@joewalla8438 all of those are in use now and have been for a long time.
The smoke factor should be measured in more than one way. Two smoke FTW!
Hey Todd, have you thought about doing the bearing test AFTER freezing the oil? It would be interesting to see how each oil performs on a bearing when frozen.
I've wondered that. The thing is, once you actually get to the testing part, the oil has warmed up. You've got a good idea, but it might be difficult to test.
Thanks for the video idea.
5 gallon bucket and some dry ice could help keep the oil cold while set up takes place.
@@TheCAD66
That's a good idea!
@@TheCAD66
Just put the oil directly into the test cup and freeze it. Go from the freezer to the testing rig.
I love your videos there’s no beating around the bush always straight to the point. I rely on your testing before I buy anything. Thank you brother for the honesty 💪💪🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks and you are welcome!
You should have more subscribers than those mindless “ influencers”. You’re videos are thorough, and the normal individual would never be able to spend the money to test the unending amount of products you test weekly. Thanks man… love the videos.
Thanks and you are welcome!
ABSOLUTELY, THEY ARE HERE TO DISCREDIT REALITY
When we first got a carton of 0W-16 oil at my shop, I didn't think it was for a normal daily driven vehicle. I though it was some specialty performance oil for a 2 stroke or something. Just goes to show how much closer the tolerances are in these newer engines. I drive 20+ year old Japanese vehicles and run 10-W30 in them with no issues. It helps that it rarely gets below freezing here.
always hear that term "new tight tolerance engines". but in reality pretty much all tolerances have been the same since the 90s as far as japanese engines go. also the reason the idle oil pressure on his 2020 is so low at idle. same bearing tolerances but lower viscosity oil.
Thanks for sharing.
Your testing and thoroughness is second to none. Great work as always
Thanks!
It will on an 07 yaris made for 5w30 when you somehow manage to not only grab 0w20 but to put it in and run it. Instant oil glitter, but after 5k miles of 1000 mile oil changes with cheap conventional 5w30, it didn't even knock.
Great information on the impact of the low viscosity oil.
Can you test, say, 10w-40 for lubricity and puring viscosity, example @ 30 degrees Celsius , and then test the 5w-20 @ 10 degrees Celsius also for lubricity and pouring to see if acts the same as the 10w-40 @ this temperature , or @ what temperature will be the same
Thanks for the suggestion.
Would love to see a comparison of oil filters. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, will do! Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarmDon't forget the cartridge style filters for us Europeans, some ford like the F-150 use them too.
I think it would be a good video to test all 4 oils in your truck. Run 1000 to 3000 miles then do a oil sample test after each oil! Thanks for all your hard work!
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
caballeroloco............why don't you try it in your truck, anybody can get oil samples done.
I sent my Italian Iveco 6 cylinder Turbo charged diesel engine using Ams Oil 15-40W diesel with a by pass oil filter system that was like 2or3 microns. I sent my oil sample in at 15,000 miles it came back with a clean bill of health, I the tried the same oil at 25,000 miles and it was still OK? The trick was I changed the engine twin oil filters at about 7,500 miles and I kept the 3 or 4" diameter by about 12" inches Ams by pass oil filter till only one half of the filter was still hot and the other half much cooler? An engineer taught me that trick as that large oil filer was very expensive my engine went 350,000 miles when I parked it 20 years later as finding parts were very hard to get in the United States. I find it Odd the the same engine and Turbo charger was still good when I parked the truck?
Yes, because the test will show more results on where and tare. What components are worse. The 30w wate should be better for where. 16w whatever seems to thin depending on how hard you run your vehicle's.
@@77.88. I do the same on my Chevy cruze. It maybe where'd but it beats changing my oil like a idiot every 3,000 miles. I only do it once a year. It's the best feeling ever. Lots of pride saying so too. I run amsoil signature series 0w20
Always a good show, and thanks for all the time, effort, and personal money used to do these tests. G-d bless everyone.
Thanks!
Thanks for running these test. My 2010 Honda element calls for 5w20 but have only used it maybe twice since i bought it new. I use 5w30 in it and my 2004 Nissan Titan as i don't think the 5w20 provides enough protection when it gets to be 110 down here in Texas. Oil shears down so that means the 5w20 will be even thinner after a few thousand miles. We don't usually see below freezing temps here so i don't worry about that. I normally use the Pennzoil ultra platinum not burning any oil with over a 150k on the little Element. I don't wait for the maintenance minder to come on i change at 5k or sooner. Oil test may say it still good but they don't test how much dirt and soot is in it.
You are welcome!
In extreme cold the oil getting there quickly is far more important than anything else.
I think a different low temp test should be added to represent the situation most people are in during winter, such as zero degrees F.
@@bills6093Did you watch the video?
@@Dr-TH-cam Yes, his freezer is at -40F, a test which doesn't mean much to most of us.
But an engine block heater makes that a moot point as the oil won't be -40. Also it should still be coated from the last time it ran, unlike in the test where it gets cleaned between uses.
@@Dr-TH-camwhat hes saying is also test the cold oil from 0°F not just warm new and -40 because a majority of people arent going to see -40 temps where they live
Always enjoy the oil tests! 👨🔬😎✌️
Would still like to see a sump pump showdown sometime!
Thank you!
Yes, sump pumps -Liberty and Zoeller for starters@@ProjectFarm
@@RRaucina Wayne & Simers, too!
I'm just glad you specified to stick to the recommended oil per car as my dad failed to do that in one of my first truck and ended up clogging up my oil pump and the pumps intake screen because the oil was to thick and started sludging up within a 3000 mile range
Thanks for sharing.
What were the grades?
Im looking at P.F. video's , on a Sunday morning !! Love the Oil-impics
The MAIN thing is to have all the oil you need in the engine. It helps if it's clean.
after that it's just a fine point on a sharp pencil.
I drive older stuff, with plenty of clearances, and the runny numbers "evaporate" most quickly from the crankcase, plus it rarely gets super cold down here. Good video.
My older vehicles definitely run thicker oils, However even my high mileage newer vehicles use factory spec. So many newer engines have such small oil passages that thicker oils restrict flow and cause starvation. Sucks because other parts with wear clearances could sure use the thicker stuff.
Old car with 0W will burn the oil, it will blow by the rings.
Thank you for sharing!
What I’ve always found interesting is how manufactures recommend different weight oils for identical vehicles with identical engines in different markets.
For example my SVT Focus is recommended 5w-20 in the USA but 5w-30 in Europe. My Mazda Skyactiv-G 2-5l NA is recommended 0w-20 in USA and Canada, and 0w-16 in Japan, which has almost identical climate swings to the continental USA, and interestingly, 5w-20 in Mexico, which presumably doesn’t even need Winter-certified oil, or thin starting weight for that matter.
Seemingly same oils in different markets can have totally different compositions, might be a factor?
@@Broeils wow, never actually thought about that but you’re probably right. Good chance the regulatory bodies in different countries have different standards.
@@emotionz3 there's also different emissions regulations in different areas, and oil choice can impact emissions testing, and they probably have to test with the recommended oil.
@@emotionz3 No, the oils sold have the same composition - if they are meeting the same standards. And since they are shipped World Wide - such and such Penzoil Platinum Full Synthetic - 5w-30 will have exactly the same spec's anywhere.
@@daves7775 Many manufacturers order their oils in local refineries. Unless they control every batch, you do not really know if the oil meets the original specs. Only few companies produce their oils 100% by themselves and ship it worldwide
It would be interesting to see a comparison between some of the newer "Hybrid Engine Oils" (Mobil1, Valvoline) compared against their "Regular" variants. Maybe add some tests with impurities/fuel dilution to see how they hold up? Always love your content!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm Could you test silicone "oil" in place of crank case oil?
@aboy467 I'd like to see this as well.
You are so thorough. I check for your reviews before I buy anything. Haven't steered me wrong yet.
Thanks!
Miss the oil test videos. I know you can only test so much so many different ways but glad to see another classic from you Project Farm. Love the oil test videos 😂❤
Thanks!
I switched to 5w30 from 0w20 last year. Mobil 1. Car makers want higher mileage numbers at the cost of the engine. I also change my oil often and earlier than recommended. I live in the South. No cold weather. Good test. Thank you
Thank you for sharing!
Mine calls for 10w30 but I use 10w40. Completely agree with you.
@@Gobbbbb At 10w-30 you are already at the upper end of viscosity. Completely unnecessary to switch to 40.
@@moshet842 With an air cooled engine in 25c+ weather, I'll stick to using the higher viscosity. There may be not much of a difference, but the 10w40 oils here in the UK are considerably cheaper and have slight better protection. It's a no brainer.
@@Gobbbbb Oh, you didn't say it was air-cooled. Keep doing what you are doing then.
Nice video Todd. The heat test with the 0W-16 oil was a loss of 6.36 grams and not 4.36 grams. it started at 412.12 grams and ended at 405.76 grams.
Thanks!
It also doesn't make sense to use the total weight lost since the starting weights are never exactly the same. Percent lost is the what we actually want to know.
@@unitedgray I think the weights were close enough that percentage loss wouldn't make that big a difference.
Blows my mind that all hybrid powertrains recommend 0w20 - 0w16 for the engine side assist. Looks like ill be blending some 5w into mine. Thank you for getting right to the point with tangible results and sharing it with everyone. ❤
You are welcome!
Not just for efficiency, hybrids especially plug in require thinner oil. Imagine this, you’re stuck in traffic for a while and only using electric power. Once the traffic is clear and you put your foot down, the cold engine kicks in for power. But the thick oil doesn’t flow quite easily as the thin oil does when cold, you end up damaging the engine even more
@@Dankboi420 if you love in the cold sure everywhere south of the mason Dixon line here in the states is usually above 30 degrees after spring they never go below 80 in Texas until winter
The most important part of the video was at the end differ to the OEM recommendation on oil viscosity. Don’t just throw a 0w16 at your engine if it calls for a 10w40.
If you live in a hotter climate use the higher viscosity of oil recommended if it’s colder vice versa.
The only thing you should probably take into question is the oil change intervals especially with forced induction engines.
Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for all the effort you put in your videos, maybe you can include a 20W-50 and 15W-50 in a future video, here in Brazil 20W-50 is very common because of older cars and hot weather.
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
Same here in South Africa. I would also like to see how the oils in this video do at high temperature on the wear tester. To simulate using it in 30-40 centigrade.
Gulf countries do that too.
I’d love to see another motor oil showdown!
I love the oil tests
Thanks for the suggestion.
Love the channel but the oil stuff is pretty much beaten down. Hes probably done a dozen over the years and you can only test so much additives and hot/cold viscosity.
@@giggiddyDo maple syrup, then.
10w40 versus 20w50
Not sure if you realize how much of a positive impact you have on most of us. Ty
You are welcome!
Toyota is now using 0W8 in the new hybrid engines, BMW is also using 0W12 is some of their new ones too. Crazy! Even more important to keep the oil fresh in those engines!
Thank you for sharing!
can't wait for 0W0!
If they are designed for it, it should be no problem. Bigger bearing surfaces and smaller clearances.
Just pour water in the crank case at that point.
Thanks for sharing.
It‘s an awesome video as always.
For the car guys, keep in mind that modern cars are usually equipped with an oil-cooler that helps keeping the viscosity stable and the evaporation rate low. That results in different operating conditions between the low viskosity stuff and the multi-grade stuff.
Thank for sharing.
Oil cooler isn't gonna do much to the extreme temps the oil sees above the oil control ring. 0w-16 and 0w-20 is all epa bullshit so cars can get like 1 mpg better at the expense at blowing up right after the warranty expires.
@@dkis8730Good thing I have a lifetime power train warranty on my Camry 😁
My understanding is that most of the wear occurs on a dry start up, before the oil arrives to the overhead valve train. That's why the friction tester wheel is coated with oil prior to testing. Wouldn't the much faster cold flow of the 0W-16 more than compensate for the decreased wet protection? Especially in vehicles driven short distances?
There's a large factor that never gets discussed, and that is thermal expansion. An engines machined clearances are tested and engineered to be correct --- at full temp. The bearing clearances are effectively incorrect at cooler temps, and accounts for much of start up wear.
I use it Lucas syn on all oil changes, 185300miles going strong, one bottle per change.
Heavier oils will leave more of a film behind than water, oops, 0w16 does...
@lonniebeal6032 facts. I use 90w120 on my motorcycle chain. Going 100mph there is still oil on the chain.
It all depends on your oil pump, ocv(vvt actuators) and the phasers driven off those if applicable. If the pump has a massive pressure build the car will take thinner oil, if you use 10-w30 in a 0-w16 itll boost oil pressure so much it wont register phasers appropriately. However running 0-16 in a 10-30 you wont have enough oil pressure causing lubrication issues... Hope this is helpful.
It would probably be very difficult to do, but being able to test wear resistance while the oil is very hot would be cool. Them being at room temperature is closer to winter viscosity than hot viscosity. I wonder if they would be closer at those higher temps.
Thanks for the feedback.
Always a great video, love the breakdowns and simplicity for anyone to understand. keep up the amazing work man, thank you for another great video
Appreciate it!
Problem is the manufacturer doesn’t always have the customer in mind. They often engineer things to bring in more service otherwise their goal would be longevity but longevity doesn’t keep stealerships happy.
Thank you for sharing!
💯
You make an excellent point. I think manufacturers can be trusted as far as which viscosity to use but the oil change intervals is where they get you. My recommendation is to use the viscosity they call for but under no circumstance would I wait for an oil life monitor to tell me its time for a service.
If someone can’t easily figure out what engine oil their vehicle takes than they have no business doing their own oil change.
I agree. I’ll put more trust in the recommendation of the man who fixes the broken car than the recommendation of the one who designed it to break at a pre determined point.
The best as always! Didn't waste a second neither. It is hard to watch other YT that take 2-3 minutes to get started!
Thanks!
Started using a synthetic 5W-30 in the mid 1980's. My dad said I was crazy to put such a thin oil in my car! After about 200,000 miles I gave him the car and he drove it for years.
What car was that🤔?
Thanks for sharng.
5W-30 is very thin for a 1980s car. Most 1980s classics want 10W-40 oil.
Great video. Because VVT and oiling systems in vehicles are getting a lot more sensitive, it is important to use the oil the engine was designed for. Even if it seems too thin. I am a Toyota mechanic, a lot of the newer Toyotas are going to 0W-16. They started around 2018 with the Camry, and since then I’ve seen several get to 200,000 miles and they don’t burn a drop of oil.
I use the recommended 0w16 in my 2021 Corolla 6spd hatch. I use 80W90 GL4 (not recommended) for gearbox oil. I haven't had any issues. 75W seems like a waste of money if you change it out every 25k miles.
Avoid this guy at all costs!
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
As shown on the bearing test the 5W-30 had the least amount of wear. Protect your engine.
The only reason the 5W-20,0w-20 and 0W-16 exist is due to the EPA push for higher mpg standards.
I had relatives working at auto factories that saw the EPA reports mandating it.
I was wondering about that. My 2014 Toyota Prado lists a range of oils to use given the max/min temperature, and you can basically use anything when in the range of 0-40 deg. c
I believe hybrid vehicles especially plug in hybrids require thinner oil. Since the engine is not always running, thinner oil flows better at lower temp
I have a question though. Does engine wear happen mostly when cold starting? And if it is so, what kind of tests would reflect the effects of viscosity on engine wear?
An idea comes to mind, start/stopping the wheel 100 times without pre-oiling them. Would that be more reflective of real world circumstances?
It only makes sense that a thinner oil will provide less protection from wear. I always used 10W30 (I'm 81 and pretty set in my ways), but I have never had car that called for these thin oils. My vehicle is a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the straight 6 cylinders. It has 240,000 miles on it and I have only used 10W30 in it, which is getting harder to find.
EPA doesnt give a damn about your engine, if you need to buy a new one is more money (and taxes) for the government
Other TH-camrs should take notes and learn from this man, this is how videos should be made. Just get to the point! I love it!
Thanks so much!
I love all your videos it’s definitely helped me make some buying decisions in the past. Just a suggestion though I’d love to see you add the bearing test with the cold oils to the videos. Best way I could think to simulate starting your car in the cold of winter and letting it warm up before driving.
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
The high wear rates in a real world engine when it is cold are likely due in part to the presence of condensed water and liquid fuel removing some of the oil film from engine wear areas. Especially the upper cylinder and piston rings. @@ProjectFarm
I think you said it best at the end. Your recommendation is to use the oil the manufacturer recommends.
I'm old school and my car calls for 0-16 oil. It's hard for me to do, but I do.
Thanks for the feedback.
I agree. Old school here too and have a new Toyota and forced to use 0W-16 due to warranty. But other countries can use 5W-30
Yeah mine calls for 0-20 and I get reminded every time when Inlook at the fill cap 😳
I'm wondering if you could do your tests with the oil at operating temp and see if the results would be different. Love your content!👍
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
Great idea!
Yes, please do an operating temp test. The oil behaves totally different vs room temp.
@@corruption1724 From listening to engine racing techs, they said you use a thicker oil because it becomes thinner as temps rise and act like a thinner oil. I would believe if you are just driving back and forth to work and store you wont have to worry too much tho.
- Indeed. Under normal driving conditions and of course with proper maintenance of the car, we should not worry too much about the oil if it matches the specs.
In my Beemer X5 3.0D = Shell Helix Ultra, it is equivalent to the Penz.
Furthermore, I only recommend XL Boosted from Amsoil, absolutely top quality, smoother engine, visco is maintained, temperature of the engine remains optimal. Etc. To buy!@@wanglee21
Your videos are amazing and like another viewer said all the time and effort you put into your videos is hard work. Thanks for comparing these products because they definitely save me a lot of money 😊
Thanks and you are welcome!
Lighter weight oils are only used to squeak out some slight efficiency gains. They just don't provide as much protection to the engine components as the traditional 5w-30 oil (as the bearing test clearly showed) and thinner oils will sneak past seals and cause the engine to start burning oil and piddle on your driveway a lot quicker than 5w-30. If you ask the EPA; apparently burning oil and nuking an engine prematurely is fine and dandy as long as you can save 1/2 mpg in the process.
yes, i still use 10w40 oil and it is maybe most used here in finland, 5w40 is better for daily use in winter time but... i saw how it turns in 2 years without oil change.. it was like water lol :D
Most wear is at startup.
@@nwastormchaser9624 yes, fepending how cokd id it
Yea now imagine a 0-20 in a diesel engine,, the gm 2.8
When you have a chance, watch a video on the new Toyota 2.5L motor that I think was the first to use 0W16. They have been using this oil in Japan for a while before it came to the US. With Toyota's tight tolerances and low friction motor, I believe 0W16 has more than enough viscosity for their motor. If it didn't, you'd see quite a bit of metal in the oil and oil filter, which isn't the case.
Awesome content as always. One word of caution though. The OEM oil pressure gauges on cars are not always accurate by design. Some operate like on/off switches and are there to just report any pressure. As an example miatas are notorious for this.
I'm pretty sure all fords trucks since the 80's are like this. Just an idiot gauge. Pretty easy to tell tho, they only ever read 0 or 60ish %.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
Love these oil videos! Incredibly thorough! Wouldn't mind seeing more two-stroke comparison whether it's oil ratio or oil types at wide open throttle. Even some oil additives for decoking would be interesting to see!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
Wow, that is not the result I was expecting. Very informative.
Thanks!
This is a great channel! As someone who builds race engines for a living I would strongly suggest staying with the recommended oil viscosity. The clearences in modern engines are very tight compared to 10years ago. Going from 0W16 to 5W30 can cause accelerated wear on bearings, piston to wall issues and piston rings.
Great test, keep them coming please.
Yes, this test doesn't seem to test differences in tolerances.
The lighter oil viscosity is also for the variable valve timing in modern engines
@@edbaczewski2959 I love how people are always looking for any reason why low viscosity oil is better. The truth is that it is not because viscosity is always closely related to lubricating properties.
In the eighties, the standard was 15w40, in the nineties, 10W40, etc. And everything worked great, including the variable valve timing, which was recently 50 years old, even though the world only knows it from the end of the 80s. Since then, every car manufacturer has named it after themselves, for example Vanos from BMW.
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Do you manufacture racing engines for 0W16 or 5W30 viscosity oil?
@@MijanboyStraight 0 weight is used for qualifying in racing .
I have used 10W30 motor oil in all my older trucks and have never had any issues !! Nice job !!
Generally speaking, if you stick to the oil weight specified by the vehicle manufacturer and change it regularly, you won't have any issues.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I have used it in all my lawn mowers. All my vehicles, I've never had an issue.
Did that older truck have low tension piston rings, or GDI? If it's older than say the 90s, they didn't. So these newer cars will need that crap 0w20 in the winter, and it's probably safe to use 10w30 in the summer, I do...
@@lonniebeal6032 94 chevy !!
After Brian at FordTechMakuLoco recommended full synthetic 5w30 (he likes the penzoil platinum full synthetic) for my F150 with a 5.4L 3V engine, I definitely switched over from the factory-recommended 5w20 blend. He likes the heavier oil because it sticks to the rockers and other parts in the top of the engine.
Thanks for sharing.
Thats why i switched in my jeep wrangler with the 3.6l pentastar, they are known to have some oil filter housing and rocker arm issues. I think the heavier oil will help out! They magically switched in 2013 to the 5w20.... probably for fucking CAFE gas mileage bullshit
Your government at work.
Ford recommends 5w30 for the same 3 valve engines in the rest of the world and they don't have the same problems with the valve train failing.
summer here exceeds over 45c. Engines without active oil cooling suffer.
I prefer my 10w60 even if i have to wait a bit at mornings.
At winters, a 5w40 is perfectly fine for our climate. We never had too cold winters to use 0w oil grades. (Greece) i might say that even 5w is way too low for our winter
Me personally, I've always seen oil choice a extremely suggestive based on location of majority driving, how heavily the vehicle is being abused, and MOST IMPORTANTLY, the milage on the motor. Unfortunately, with all the new tech and sophistication that comes along with it, drivers just seem to not be able to get that chance of choosing anymore. However, with car enthusiasts like me who are interested in cars thar are as old, if not older than us, we still have pretty much all the freedom to choose. These videos are a tremendous help to people like me, keep cranking out what ever you can find but. Helps all of us one way or another in the ultimate long run.
Wish you would do a comparison of all 0w16 oil and see how it stacks up against penzoil ultra platinum 0w20. Toyota says you can run 0w20 if 0w16 isn't available but you must switch back to 0w16 on the next oil change. Any explanation? Would 0w20 give better protection with film strength? What if we continued use of 0w20 and neglected to go back to 0w16? What harm if any could be done.
the difference between 20 and 16 is meaningless. I wouldn't worry for one second about this.
Nobody on youtube puts as much effort or consistency into their videos keep up the amazing work love the oil videos as always
Thanks, will do!
Ow oil vis is the EPA leading you to very short engine life. My next oil change happening next week- Hemi Jeep spec shows 5W-30. Moving up to 10W-30 to quiet the ticking lifters and thicken up during the 100° temps here.