The BIQU H2 Compact Direct Drive Extruder Review
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ค. 2024
- Hello, 3D Printing friends! Today we're going to take a look at the BIQU H2 Compact Direct Drive Extruder! It's a DIY upgrade for your Bowden-drive 3D printer. BIQU sent this to me to test out, and I've been using it on my Ender-3 V2.
PID AutoTune for Ender-3 V2:
• • PID AutoTune your Ende...
Want to check out the H2?
• www.bigtree-tech.com/products...
BIQU's downloadable mounts:
• www.bigtree-tech.com/help/dow...
BIQU BX / H2 Extruder Front Mount 5015 Fan Duct
by eight_heads
• www.thingiverse.com/thing:468...
Did this video help you out, save you a bunch of time, or help you learn something new?
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Disclosure:
I sometimes receive compensation such as discounted or free products, and when applicable, this is disclosed in videos and their descriptions. Whether free, discounted, or paid full price, any reviewed product is tested to the best of my ability, and I give my honest impression. All opinions expressed are my own.
#BIQU
#DirectDrive
#DIY
CHAPTERS
00:00 Intro
00:38 Bowden v Direct Drive
02:22 BIQU H2 Direct Drive Solution
06:49 DIY Issues
09:14 Review
16:47 Closing - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Totally unrelated to the video BUT...this guys hair density looks next level for his age.Bravo!
😂 Thanks!
Glad you liked my fan duct/mount design for the H2/BX and thanks for linking to it. Feel free to let me know if you have any suggested changes and I'd be happy to include them.
For those of you who are (or might be in the future) having problems getting the retraction *speed* dialed in on your new BiQu H2... I hate to go against what Bryan has in his video, but this comes straight from BiQu tech support. Try using a retraction speed of 4. That's not a typo. Try using a retraction speed of *four* . Yeah, I know it sounds insane, but I took their advice, and my retraction is now spot on with a retraction distance of 0.5 and a retraction speed of *four* . You can use whatever de-retraction speed works for you (I use 40), but you might seriously want to try out a retraction speed of *four* with your new H2.
I'm using Cura Slicer, do I just put in 0.5 retraction distance in or I have to convert that number? Just looks a little strange, usually retraction distance is from 1.5mm to about 7mm depending on the extruder.
@@deniellemondesire7080 Yes, no conversion needed. With direct drive you do not want high retraction distances. You are more likely to cause jams if you go higher. Those numbers you saw were for bowden set ups.
interesting will try it.
h2 smart manual recommends 1mm at 15mm/s
Love all the E3V2 videos you have. By far has been my fav printer ive had so far.
The lines after features on the outside surface are due to the slowdown / speed changes due to those more detailed features. There is still pressure in the nozzle preventing the immediate reduction in flow compared to the reduction in speed. The result is a slightly wider filament path after detailed features.
Love your videos and how your thorough and very knowledgeable. Definitely installing this extruder on my ender 3v2. I figured I would add dual z axis kit at the same time. Mostly wondering if you had a recommendation brands or a kit ? Thanks so much your assembly video and a few things you said got me off to a great start.
I did it installed the H2 extruder on my ender 3v2. Had to extend the cables all of them. I used the stock stepper cable which i extended found out that the two center cables are crossed on the connector so i un-crossed them and now the stepper works. I'm going to give the fan mount a try. Thanks for the Video it helped considerably.
Thanks for the review, we are looking to print with TPU to make a special knee brace for my daughter.
10:45 Coasting in Cura is not a wipe. It stops extruding before a scheduled retraction to reduce the amount of pressure in the nozzle chamber. This hopefully reduces oozing during travel.
OK. I may have gotten my terminology mixed up with PrusaSlicer. PS says its *Wipe while retracting* setting "...moves the nozzle while retracting to minimize the possible blob on leaky extruders." Basically it wipes the nozzle's butt on the print (yuck? But also handy).
I'm looking at Cura now, and I guess "Coasting" is before every retraction, and "Wipe Nozzle Between Layers" is the same thing, but only at the end of a layer?
Great video. To the point, informative.
Hey Bryan, thanks for this review. Planning to get this soon. Did you happen to share the plate mount for E3v2? I think it makes more sense for the cables to be on the left side too.
Thanks from the Philippines!!
Great video brian👍 keep up the good work
Thanks! 😊
Great video as always!!!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it! 😀
Ha! I love the shirt! My wife says I need one for each day of the week. Lol
Haha! A lot of my T-shirts either come from Amazon or TeeTurtle. 😁
The lines on the Cat Print, I have seen this kind of thing as well. If you look at the STL in something that shows wireframe you will indeed see geometry intersections right where the lines form. Take the model into a program that will remesh the STL. I use Blender and in sculpt mode click remesh. I usually set it to .03. If is something I put a texture on or a logo I set it to .01 For some reason I don't understand this often fixes those ghost lines
Excellent video!
Hey Bryan. Thank you for the H2 video. I'm in the process of installing one on my Ender 3 v2. I elected to also install a Biqu Hermit Crab thinking that it might make installing the H2 a little easier. (It did and didn't, but that's another story.) In your video on the H2, you don't get into any firmware changes for the H2. I'm something of a newbie, so this has been a struggle finding a complete resource. Biqu documents the e-step settings change to 932 and a stepper voltage of 800mA, but not how to make them. Do you cover these changes in another video perhaps?
There would have to be a significant weight savings to use this over the micro swiss kit for the same ish price with all of the mounting hardware ready to go
I bought one and am fitting it to a cr6-se. As you say, not for the faint hearted. A lot of dimensionally accurate pre printing required before head removal. Thanks for a great video.
Let me know how that goes. Are you somehow retaining the pressure sensor that detects when the nozzle touches the bed, or are you going with something like a BL-Touch?
@@BV3D I'm following a guide from dammstien.nl a guy known as sebazz who wrote the community firmware for the cr6. Check out his github and blog.
I will reset the pressure from the pot as his guide describes as the new head is much heavier.
I LOVE THE SHIRT
Polytera matte filament is really awesome.
Hello Bryan, I may have missed your conclusion, but finally was it worth changing ? Do you see any big difference with the stock bowden extruder ?
The non-adjustable tension of the H2 is a big disadvantage. Also filament tends to jam when loading or unloading filament, due to the internal clearance of the extruder. Finally, mine had a stripped grub screw for the heat break.
Not had any problems with jams so far on mine. are you using an early model before the improved production?
@@MeshJedi Yes, there have been multiple versions in the field
You have to use very slow unload of the filament.
As the filament path is so short, when you unload the filament is still melted and stick on the wheel. Which give you jam.
So you have to use slower unload to let the filament cool down and does not stick on the gear.
In my case, i don't use the filament unload on Marlin and manually change the filament by manipulating the tension lever
Two or more questions, Did your really like this? Looks much lower that the Micro Swiss setup. Are you going to share your mounting bracket with wire management. In the video, looks great. Also, does it use the same nozzles as the E3V2?
Hi Bryan, Thanks for the very informative video. I'm really late to this party toying with the idea of a Biqu H2 500C on an old Ender 3 with a Creality 4.2.2 motherboard & CR-touch. I'm trying to get high temperature printing with the bonus of direct drive. The mechanical and wiring are non-issues for me (electronics tech in another life) but I'm a newbie with 3D printing and haven't yet monkeyed with firmware. Any idea whether the 500C is significantly different from the regular H2? Also, as others have mentioned it's hard to tell what if any changes will be required to the actual firmware, beyond just configuration things like E-steps. Should I, as a novice, expect issues dealing with firmware? Many thanks!
Bryan has the direct Drive to make it work!!
Hurdle after Hurdle!!
Biqu : it's D.I.Y.
Bryan : Hold my Crimper!
I'm thinking of upgrading to the BIQU H2. I have a Creality CR-10s Pro v2 and the only Creality thing left on it (besides the frame) is the filament detector and extruder. I have a Lerdge K board running it, but also going to change this out for a BigTreetech SKR2, and thought I would also do the BIQU H2 at the same time. Would you recommend it for an everyday printer where we don't do a lot of flexible filaments, and mainly print with PLA+ and PETG?
Also would be interested to know if you kept this setup running and how it faired over time
just installed this on my modded ender 3.
making cable extensions was a pain in the ass.
the heater cartridge cable has small fibers that make you itch like crazy (fiberglass?) - wear gloves.
i had to calibrate e-steps to 2377 instead of the recommended 932. Not sure whats going on with that...
makes lots of noise on retraction.
so far calibration test cube came out fine.
Wish I could like this video more than once
Awesome video, I think the fan is 35mm?
Thanks.
just discovered how to loose none of the bed print area on an ender 3 with this extruder. saw another video where a guy pulls the 4 bolts holding the y axis rail in the center and using 4 5mx35mm bolts with a flat and lock washer and 4 2020 profile t nuts so it can be moved where you need and tighten. I still wanted the full bed area thats not usable in stock form so i did recompile jyers. mostly mentioning cause it was a fix for the bed
I saw somewhere this has a 7:1 drive. They should have included a pancake stepper (nevermind, it has one. Missed where you said it). Those are plenty even for the 3:1 (clone!) like I use.
Correct, default e-steps are 932.
good stuff
Thank you, William 👍
I know what that banding is!
It is the nozzle laying material down the other way compared to other layers!
Is there a way to fix this? I had this problem for a while and reallt want to fix it!
@@philipprior9174 I'm not sure, you might need to play with some firmware features.
Tune Linear Advance and turn S-curve acceleration on or off to minimize the effect.
Maybe your slicer has an option to follow a specific direction, but these artifacts generally show up aligned to printed features.
it would be good if you can show us how you install from removal of old to new....
Any thoughts on it not having a tension adjustment? I feel like this would be a big deal for flexibles but it didn't seem to make much difference for you. Thanks.
It hasn't been a problem so far. I think it might be _less_ of an issue for flexibles. I would think they'd be able to spring back to their original diameter more easily than, say, PLA. Looking at the exploded diagram of the H2 it appears that the spring applying the tension to the second filament drive gear is all the way around the back of the unit, so they'd have a fair bit of redesign to do to make it adjustable.
Any recommendations for supports in duct? I am trying to figure out the best way to print it, so I can actually clean support material out
how are you not getting the e1 therm runaway as soon as the fan 5150 kicks on? I can print for about 3 minutes and then I see my temp is way lower then target temp
About te cat, im quite sure that when it's directly related to something on the model (and its not ghosting) it's coz the retraction it's not 100% right, so it retracts a bit more than it should on some parts.
Is there way to fix it? I've had this problem for ages.
@@philipprior9174 What does it exactly happen?
@@KARONTEC I find sharp angles, like the eyes and whisker features of the Calicat at 12:40 on the video, cause a distortion in the wall.
Is it possible to set a Y-axis offset to set real center for the printed mounts?
Can you share the file for the mount you made to accomodate wire management?
I understand this is the V2 but have you tryed this on a ender 3 max? Im thinking of trying this but no one has done it yet.Ive put dual Z on it and a BL touch. Any ideas?
What do you need to print to mount this to the ender 3 max please.
Just curious. What's the story with Benchy? I see it everywhere. There has to be a story about how benchy became the defacto bench-mark print design (besides his name).
Bryan, I fitted a BL Touch to an Ender 3 and got it printing perfect for a couple of weeks with the best first layer of all of my five printers but then I went to print something today and the first layer has gone down really thin with almost transparent plastic, the extruder is not ticking though and I let the print continue to see what happened, it came out ok and to size in the z-axis.
Have you any idea what is going on here?
It's possible the mount shifted. I had that happen to me earlier this year. I can see the 1st layer patter in my PEI sheet. 😕
Try verifying your Z offset value again.
@@OldCurmudgeon3DP This printer is possessed, I put a print on to get a good look at it in action today and the purge line is printing plastic super thin now but the print is back to normal, I thought I might have set something wrong in the slicer when I first got this issue so I checked the Cura settings which are all good so then I printed the g-code when this issue came about and I got the same results as my earlier print, thin purge but perfect first layer on the part.
I checked the mount just now and it's fine, in fact, it cant move as it is the metal Creality mount that has a fixed mounting and thread positions.
I changed the build plate from a spring steel PEI to the Creality glass and ran the part again and with exactly the same results, I have checked the bed level manually and remeasured the z offset and all is good.
I am at a loss
I wonder if Biqu is going to put this one of their printers? I wonder if they make a 3d printer that incorporates all the stuff they make for 3d printers?
It originally shipped on their Kickstarter-funded BIQU BX printer: www.kickstarter.com/projects/1440007055/biqu-bx-worlds-lightest-direct-extruder-fdm-3d-printer.
The bx is an awesome printer I got one and it's fast
The 5015 fan, is it 12V or 24V? I am waiting for my printer to arrive from Newegg (best price I could find plus free shipping), considering upgrades already.
Hi! It's a 24V 5015 blower. Congrats on getting a good deal from Newegg! 👍🏻
@@BV3D Thanks Bryan. I have been searching for info about this and pretty much stopped when I found out there are 2 fans with different voltage. Now I can progress getting the upgrades. Thanks again. I think you give the best explanations of all the videos I have been viewing.
Where did you get the flexible textile tubing
I got it on Amazon, but the stuff I ordered is out of stock. This stuff (linked below) looks like exactly the same stuff.
MGI SpeedWare Split-Sleeve Wire Loom, Woven Mesh Fabric Cover - 25 feet (1/2")
It's 25 feet (7.6m) of the stuff, which is a ridiculously huge amount. The one I ordered was only a 10 foot length.
amzn.to/2QVtWBZ [affiliate link]
I own an ender 3 v2 that I use for making small to medium sized files. How nessacary would you say a direct drive extruder would be for me?
So what material can you file with PLA ? - Also, no you are good. Happy printing ^^
@@TitanCalE thanks, I mean that the stl file is a small object. I was trying to think of a way to say "I print small prints" without saying print twice. Objects is the right word there.
I know this is a bit late, but I wouldn't say it's necessary unless you're really wanting to print flexibles or to use higher speeds.
Any link to the file for the part cooling fan duct with the 5015 blower?
Hi! Here it is: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4682915
Does anyone else think this man is absolutely adorable
Super video! I applauded for $5.00 👏👏
Wow, thanks Andrew! 😊
Bryan... It looks like you have forgotten where your hairstylist is located. That's quite the lion's mane you are sporting... What happens when we break out the heat gun?
sooo, there´s a new revision???
FYI: The difference between a v-ay-se and a v-ah-z is about $100.
😂
well it work on a monoprice mp10 mini 3d printer
Hi Paul, I don't think so. The MP10 Mini's magnetic mounting system for the hot end would probably make it very difficult to install.
Posh by the way, can be traced back to the habit of the wealthy travellers on ships to request cabins on the port side on the way out (Port Out) then being on the starboard side when getting home (Starboard Home) P.O.S.H.
Marks on the sides are bouncing. You have to upgrade the belt for a better PE one (white). Regards.
I have some of that. White belts with the steel reinforcement built in? Thanks! 👍
@@BV3D Exactly. That PE belts are the less subject to stretch. On the other hand, they do not conform well on smallest radius (GT2 16T pulleys) and may be a bit louder while operating (it's barely noticeable). Regards.
@@axelSixtySix Do you have a link to these type of belts?
@@philipprior9174 Do a "GT2 PU Belt" search on any marketplace.
@@axelSixtySix PU or PE? Your first post mentioned PE and PU in the second. Are they different types of the same thing?
Rubber Ducky!!!!!
What does a quantum duck say?
Quark! Quark! 😂
Dude get a haircut haha joking joking. I'm jealous I don't have those flowing locks. Great video. As allways
Haha! I think I'll keep it long for a while. It's ...interesting. I don' t think I'll let it get to Rapunzel length, but man my follicles have been working overtime for the last year! 😂
man the last time i was this early i got concieved lol
I have the E3D Hemera and I can tell you this is NOT a clone! One simple difference is this extruder has a superior mounting system instead of the totally lame ass dog ear driver motor mount on the E3D that is prone to breaking and the only solution is to buy a new motor, regardless that there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. It is the most ignorant mounting system I have ever seen and that one factor alone is why I will never buy another one, since other than that it has been a fantastic extruder!
Your pronunciation of vase is how I was taught to say the word. Very British. Posh.
There are more pitfalls than I could suspect
Little tip: want to print fast? Don’t use PLA :)
TPU is the wrong direction for speed relative to PLA; what's the right direction? ABS? PETG? [serious question] 😉
You talk to much.
Thanks for watching! 👍
it is not direct drive... it is just a short coupled bowden tube drive... simple as that. Just another misnomer... kind of like bed levelling...
This is as direct drive as direct drive gets. 😂😂😂