GAME OVER For Hotend/Extruder Design? - The Biqu H2 Direct Drive Hemera Alternative
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.พ. 2021
- Direct drive extruders make superior quality 3D prints, but you pay a major price for that quality. They are slow! By reducing the weight you can speed up the printing. This hotend and extruder combination (The Biqu H2) is the lightest such design out there which is also 100% metal construction. Therefore you can put it in an enclosure and it will stay dimensionally stable. So what's the catch? What's wrong with it?
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0,126 * 0,2 = 0,025 !!! not 0,08
I suspect you made some mental shortcut here. Can you explain how did you calculate it?
Good Catch Tom! The math is a bit off. Trying this a different way, I figure that 13.829mm³ per second / 0.126 X-section area = 109.75 Which means that in the air the nozzle will squeeze out a new smaller filament which is 109.75mm long every second. Because the layer height is half the diameter of the nozzle that means we can double that figure to about 220mm/s. Of course this isn't perfectly accurate because we are in fact squishing a circular profile into a flat line. But It's a good approximation. Maybe an engineer or mathematician can give us the actually correct numbers based on the variables I have provided.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I'm not officially an engineer yet, but I'll give it a try 😁
First of all, your result is correct. Just the second to last line is a bit off (look at the units).
I'm pretty sure that slicers do their calculations based on your assumption that the extruded strand will be squeezed into a rectangular shape.
But let’s first see how big the error would be in that case. Let’s say the extruded rectangle of 0.4mm*0.2mm=0.08mm^2 is more like a rectangle with 0.05mm fillets. The area of a circle with that radius is
pi*0.05mm^2=0.008mm^2
The area of the circles’ bounding box is
(2*0.05mm)^2=0.01mm^2
The difference of both areas
0.01mm^2-0.008mm^2=0.002mm^2
is the area that we missed by disregarding the fillets.
That results in an error of
0.002mm^2/0.08mm^2=2.5%
Now let’s look at at the speed calculation with the assumption that the extrusion is rectangular in shape. Your volumetric feedrate was correct with 13.829mm^3/s.
With
layerheight*linewidth*feedrate=volumetric feedrate
we can arrange for feedrate
(volumetric feedrate)/(layerheight*linewidth)=feedrate
which results in
(13.829mm^3/s)/(0.2mm*0.4mm)=172.862mm/s
When you correct for the potential 2.5% (or so) error, you get
(13.829mm^3/s)/(0.2mm*0.4mm*0.975)=177.295mm/s
And speaking of volumetric feedrates: 14mm^3/s is quite a bit. For reference, the maximum you can push through a stock E3D V6 is 15-16mm^3/s. The mosquito will reach somewhere around 23mm^3/s.
@@ConstantijnC wow.. you are already an engineer.
@@ConstantijnC can't verify if this is correct, but simply for this breakdown you deserve the title "engineer" more than most people who own it ^^
Thank you very much for your great review. Regarding the gear stuck problem mentioned in the video, we have contacted our engineers to deal with it. Later, we will strengthen the quality inspection of parts to avoid this kind of problem. Your suggestion is of great significance to our future improvement. Once again express our sincere gratitude
Thank you for your gracious comment. You are welcome for my criticism. I hope that I have done some small service to help improve the product.
Engineering that will be paid for by all the suckers who bought your defective "V1" extruder.
This product should never have been released as it is, it's a beta not a final product.
Are you going to credit all the defective units you sent out? Or at least pay everyone for fixing your defective extruders? No one works for free in North America.
Do yourself a favor, get the Triangle Matrix - it works out the box unlike Biqu's hunk of garbage.
@@TheWoodfordreserve 500 gram extruder and hot end... You either like bad prints or don't want to print faster than 60mms Maxon a good day. Better off with an original hemera instead of these clones then.
@@TheWoodfordreserve you seem like one of those Karens that is just never satisfied. It is highly likely that there was nothing wrong with the unit since he himself said it worked before he took it apart. It is not the manufacturers fault that the USER broke it.
He put it together wrong then removed metal making the fit too loose to grip the filament.
@@excitedbox5705 that does nothing to address the mfg using V1 products as an engineering test-bed. People shouldn't be paying to be an unknowing part of the beta-testing program. I'm glad I found SJ's comments, I won't be buying this product.
Because we are dealing with subsonic flow, the nozzle is still behaving like a nozzle. This means that the smaller the orifice, the higher flow resistance (and more pressure required to overcome). A larger nozzle will reduce the flow resistance, and you will see some improvement to flow rate, assuming that the heater is able to keep up, it should actually be a pretty meaningful boost in extrusion rate (in volume/time).
WRT a nozzle, Bernoulli's principle basically states that the pressure prior to the nozzle will be higher than after. Closer the inlet and outlet of the nozzle are in area, the smaller the pressure difference. And that keeps with the above. The bigger the nozzle, the larger volume of plastic you can push in a given time.
Cloning is not necessarily "bad" for a diy realm. At some point, all airplanes have wing.
I'm keeping this statement; it's a solid distinction. Besides, this technique is used to feed MIG welder wire, which has a some things in common with filament printers.
And wheels!! Imagine if one would need to be constantly reinventing the wheel!!
I even can't agree this should be called cloning at this point. Using a simple, widely spread design is beneficial for consumer as a)it keeps the production cost lower and b)allows anyone to buy another set of gears if needed.
Only he sees cloning everywhere, a pulley... Everyone makes and sells pulleys, they're all cloned omg....
That's a perfectly widely spread standard item...
Originality is the art of hiding your sources.
No Controversy ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Humility ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Technical content ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Nice vidéo, very enjoying. Have a nice day.
You don’t understand Bernoulli’s principle, the pressure is lower when the orifice is larger.
Agreed. I was going to comment the exact same thing.
As I understand it Bernoulli's principle relates to the speed the fluid is flowing through - the faster the speed, the lower the pressure the fluid exerts on the surrounding structure. I'm not sure that's especially relevant here.
What I think might happen, and what I think the video might refer to, is that you are not pushing the _same_ amount of filament through a larger opening. With a larger opening, you are melting and pushing significantly more filament - going from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.6mm nozzle means pushing 2.25X as much filament. Presumably that takes more force due to plain old friction and viscosity. I haven't tested that, but it's what I might expect.
Yeah but if you want to keep the pressure constant on a larger area you have to increase the force. It still has nothing to do with my bro Bernoulli, ist just multiplication.
yes, but you have to melt a lot more filament with a larger nozzle, so you might actually not be able to melt it as fast as you have to without a longer melt zone.
Except you ignore pressure and use the equation for uncompressed flow, then you end up with volumetric displacement, but it's the same principle.
"It moved freely before I took it apart."
this
i was a machinist in the military and sometimes a gear that is to spec needs to be meshed with a mate gear to smooth out the jankiness.
Those gear teeth are not machined. The most common way to make a gear like this is to use gearstock, which is a long rod that has the teeth formed into it. These are then cut to the face width that you need. Those marks on the side of the gear are almost certainly from the cutoff process on a lathe. I'm guessing that they aren't even having a custom face width manufactured and are instead just using off the shelf parts.
Yep
lol, and he called it a hob gear... there are hobbed gears which is the process of manufacturing gear stock. using a gear hob..... but there are not "hob gears" lol.
i have never seen a cast gear as he suggests, I have cut 'cast gear' blanks using a dividing head on a mill, but I highly doubt that anyone would simply cast gear teeth and use them as is...
i honestly don't understand why people make shit up as they go along.
Thanks for showing off my products. I actually use TinkSeal on my Bondtech gears. All my rails and bearings are packed with TinkSeal. I use a small painter's brush to apply it. Works great on metal to plastic gears, resists drying.
This is a smaller size: www.ebay.com/itm/264318678019
Eccentric unwashed gears requiring manual sanding is the best you’ve ever seen?
This guys videos make no sense to me
@@mr987mike ... and you keep coming back for more
$$$
Chuck the gear box up to an electric drill and run the gears in with a small amount of valve lapping compound until smooth... rinse thoroughly.
Bernoulli's principal is referring to velocity, not volume. While the velocity of melted filament flowing out of the nozzle will increase with smaller sizes, the volume of filament does not. If you went to a larger nozzle you would have lower velocity on the output of the nozzle but your volume per second would increased.
Larger nozzle = higher volume
Higher volume *at the same speed.
Lower speed, same volume.
Inversely proportional.
Agree with this. Basically increased pressure is because of increased volume. Larger nozzle at the same volume will have the lower pressure.
The intro is sound logic and my approach to research. Thanks!!
Nero 3dp did a live stream of this and didn't like the machine quality of the gears, and the fact that there is no tensioner for filament tension. He has multiple screw come very close to getting stripped and the hobbes gear that is not supposed to float was floating. And couldn't rigidly mount. I take it you didn't notice the same issues, or at least, not to the same degree?
Edit: Also I wonder if it is like your mindga and it needs to be screwed in just right ( like if it is moved like 1mm slightly to one side it would not line up the filament path, but on the h2 perhaps the issue isn't the filament path but rather gear alignment)
Have the same problem as Nero 3dp, does NOT turn at all, gears are so bad...
Now if they made the big gear out of nylon, it wouldn't bind up, it would be self lubricating and it would save weight! What an innovation that would be.
I have had mine a few weeks and I have installed it on my well modded Ender 3. All I can say I am very happy with it. Loving it so much going to get another one for my CR10s.... Keep up the great work.
I have two, and I have found that after an hour of running everything runs much easier, it's much the same as with the omnia extruder where you had to run a special g code file to get those gears to mesh properly
It's great when parts are so well machined and the tolerances are so tight I have to spend an hour filing it down so there's enough play for it to move freely. Great design.
youre confusing something. well machined parts with tight tolerances don't need no filing down.
Nice thorough review mate; I thought the same when I ordered mine last week; everything looks good on paper. Great to see what's it's made of! was really expecting these gears to be nylon.
Half hour extruder review, but no prints?
Tells you enough about the on going "revolutionairy" extruders we keep getting
Because he's a fake ass paid shill, shilling gimmicky garbage.
I don't know if this helps or not but when I would replace my RC car gears with all metal would have the same issues sometimes then I learned to take a sheet of paper in between the gears when tightening don't know how it would work the next scenario if you could get it back out but it helped mesh the gears every time
for the record those are not machined gears inside the extruder the gears were created via process of (sintered powder metallurgy) not the same as metal injection molding its a bit more like casting but can produce hard alloys the lathe marks you see on the side is the clean-up pass / clearance pass this is also y the shaft has tight spots in order to machine those gears even in china the price would be very high
Thank you for educating me today. :) For anyone else who is curious: th-cam.com/video/PetwxkqM-kQ/w-d-xo.html
How do you know they are not machined?
@@andrewjamez you cant get something machined for so little money, even on machine costs alone
Mike nice how did you find out the process their using to make the gears??
@@angrydragonslayer yea ya can. Chinese cnc machine shops spit componentry out big time and somthing like that would take a couple of minutes. Plus hardening. Metal sintering would take ages and more expensive.
Amazing concept!
Got the orbiter extruder from fysetc mounted on a Sapphire Plus and that one can push without missed steps 15mm/s of PETG but on a volcano setup. That combined with a volcano comes to have about same weight.
like the video and love the clarity of the video you provide,im new to watching your channel and im impressed with it so far,bought a mingda d2 yesterday because your channel so crossing fingers,wanted the d3 but its so expensive compared to the d2...
Those orbiter extruders are pretty nice. They are about 140g in weight. And they don't include the weight of the heatsink/heatbreak/heater block and heatsink fan. So I don't think you'll be a lot lighter than the h2.
I *do* read the one-star reviews. I want to know what pissed 'em off.
I'd give this video a 1 star review as this guy can't read off grams and we get decagrams being flashed up what!
The one star and 5 star reviews are usually not very helpful, in many cases they're being written by scammers trying to knock the competitor down. The 3 star reviews tend to be by real people that are giving it an honest appraisal.
@@SmallSpoonBrigade I am aware. But I still tend to check the one-stars to see what's pissing them off.
Just FYI when a part is machined on a lathe it is turned or in this application faced not “lathed.”
Definitely jumping the gun by saying this is the "best" without even doing any prints with it. Looking forward to seeing actual print testing for flow and efficiency of heat dissipation.
For what you are looking for, go check out 3D print General's video: th-cam.com/video/CsgpFzxfca0/w-d-xo.html
I was not paying attention - did you get the extruder that is all metal or the one with ptfe tube touching the nozzle. The all-metal throat is an +$7.19 option.
I love your GameBoy wall piece!
I went ahead & purchased two of these to try on my Tenlog TL-D3 Pro, a Idex printer and your right about the shafts needed to be filed a little. I was able to get one to move well. Te other is a little more problematic. It seems the shafts was slightly bent when they pressed the gears onto it. Not by much. I got it to spin freely in one direction but it catches the housing when it spins in the opposite direction.
Anyways. I think my I will have to grind down the inside of the housing so the teeth do not touch it. There is not much thickness to it but should be enough to grind away and still not have it open up. I just need to buy a new Dremel as my old one died.
In the process of filling down the shafts I noticed another potential issue with doing so. The more you file the shaft the more loose it gets in the bearing. So the gears will have some shift to them that is why mine caught the housing. I added more play to the bearing combined with the shafts not being set straight in the gears caused it to catch the housing. The strength of their spring also doesn't help. It pushes me on the gears with some intense force. So it adds to the gears being pressed into the jousing. This Extruder could deal a less forceful spring.
I wish they would not have painted the gears as well.
To recap. If the gears and the shafts for them are straight the H2 Extruder works well. They do seem to have quality issues in achieving that though. It'd be nice if they offered replacement gear sets for this extruder. Just for this issue alone. I looked and didn't see any. They also need to redesign the dual gear lever so that you can get the pin out to replace that gear. If not then they need to offer a replacement lever arm which they should also do anyways just so we have access to full set of spare parts.
All in all the design seems nice. It seems to work well if the parts are good. I just hope I can get the issues with the gears on my second one fixed. If not I'll have to buy another and hope it is in better shape.
I bought one earlier that came with black gears and didn't work. Bought a newer one that had silver gears and different packaging. Otherwise the same and works wonderfully! For 90$ is unbeatable!
Wait for rev 2 for them to fix it. Maybe triangle labs will release one
love the review. In racing drilling holes is a common way to reduce weight. Do it! The large gears could easily be drilled to reduce weight and the caps on the steeper motor could be drilled. Aluminum bolts or screws are out there maybe swap them out? That would be such an awesome next video.
I ordered the Biqu BX printer with an extra H2 extruder from the kickstarter. The printer didn't arrive yet (shipping times to Europe via China and US are long), but the extruder did. When rotating the gear, I cannot feel any difference in force required at particular spots.
15 mm/sec of extusion is about is about 36 mm^3/sec (area of filament * 15 mm/sec), which is about the max for a Volcano style hotend (35-40mm^3/sec), a V6 style hotend maxes around 10-15mm^3/sec
To calculate how much you are pushing out, it's a quite simple formula: Layer height (mm) * extrusion width (mm) * print speed (mm/sec) = flow (mm^3/sec).
Done a slight bit of digging around. The Mosquito will do up to about 20mm^3/sec, and the Mosquito Magnum 30 to 35. The Supervolcano can do 110
The front and back case of the steppers that you wish were aluminium are already aluminium.
Magnesium might reduce weight. Magnesium was used for air cooled VW engine cases and transmissions.
@@kitcarlson6033 for a start you mean magnesium-aluminium alloy, second I'm not sure that's in use for anything but race spec parts and premium wheels, magnesium based alloys aren't particularly good on high temperature environments. Have you ever seen a magnesium fire? Some of the really nasty porshe le mans prototype crash fires were because magnesium-aluminium alloy fires.
Could you do a review of the bondtech lgx? that's their compact extruder design, similar to the Hemera/Biqu H2
Great video!
Great review of this product, although that misaligned shaft would have taken some stars away in my review :). I'm making a hot boxed Sapphire Pro hot and was planning on using high temp stepper motors (180C) to address the steppers being in the hot zone... what are your thoughts on that? They're about $25 and so that is a $50 add... Looking forward to seeing you build the Hot Sapphire project, I'm super curious how you are going to route the filament.... bubble dome? sliding panels? you always such great solutions, cant wait!!
Keep doing what you do, I am following...
I would love to see some high resolution printing with this hotend. I would think the best solution is trading out the heater for a different block and nozzle and to a 200micron nozzle
I think you have the part about pressure backwards - at the same volumetric extrusion speed, a larger diameter nozzle would have less resistance than a smaller one and lead to less back pressure unless you had some wild shear thinning properties for your polymer. In general, the pressure drop is inversely related to the nozzle size.
Hey dpt! Have you seen there's an h2 lightweight now? Comes with a clone volcano but darn it looks impressive. I was about to buy that instead of the h2-500 I got so, what's your take on that one?
That gear friction is due to your having rotated the case 180°.
The centerline shaft is prol not perfectly aligned now that you've rotated the case.
That's what I expect happened. Likely worked until he opened it, but poor part design for manufacture. Then we have lots of ad time to watch why that is more expensive in the long run. All the reparability of a used grenade.
Nope, I have tested that theory using a dial indicator and there is no discernable change.
Random thought.. What if you put a closed loop driver on the pancake stepper.. Would that solve the missed step issue or just make it arrive to the correct steps late?
Yes intersting nosle/extruder combo
Quality is the issue
I have just recived a orbiter extruder from Aliexpress :-)
Thanks for your video as always :-)😊👍
10:32 maybe nano ceramic lube? i seen some in zealous skateboard bearings made a pretty big difference suprisingly thick and sealed yet smooth
as a former machinist , the gears have been there for many years before 3d printers ever came to be, many designs are upgrade or a current or past design. Usually the gear will wear into each other, called a break-in period. I use pneumatic grease.
Hello, I have bought the H2. A new even skinny version came out. Also there are water cooled versions. Is this still better then The Orbiter?
Oh that extruder comes stock on the biqu bx, that's why the stepper comes mounted that way because the weird hdmi interface.
One feature missing is easy heat-break release. Currently you have to open the cold-side housing to get at the grub screws holding the heat-break (bet they'll change this in next revision). There's an easy mod tho, drill a hole 90 degrees away from the old grub screws to the outside and tap. See mod here at 14 minutes th-cam.com/video/k3JQiXgqrbY/w-d-xo.htmlm10s
You win, they changed the design in the new version and put the screws on the side :D
I always liked the look of the Orbiter. That seams like the best extruder to me, but it doesn't seem like anyone uses it. It is 140 grams vs 19, so I understand why. I didn't realize that LDO stepper motor was so damn heavy, lol.
SUBSCRIBED You Rock !
Why are precision worm gear drives not used ?
A matched set is hard to beat for reduction, minimal weight, and excellent mesh
What are going to use as a part cooling Fan? I came across your review looking for a Part cooling solution for the H2.
So can we swap out the dual filament gear for a better quality one, and get a higher tensioner spring so it doesn’t skip like that?
Hi, I´ve become one of your members after some time, but as I´m watching this I think what you were referring to, regarding the cloned Bondtech gears was it's a minimalized geometry and the best to provide the perfect function of such a gear. but I was thinking, the answer is yes it concludes to be a clone because there is still the option to play with that minimal geometry and shuffle its functions and there arrangements... It's an interesting thing to note and critique, but saying all that, so far it's a lovely direct drive system, and I'm surprised at its weight like you said! It's given me ideas to do the same for a future build of my own for a mini printer I'm going to design too.
interesting...
Wow -- you like it, which has me interested, but then I look at the experience Nero 3dp had with his (hint: not good), and I think I'll wait a while until someone's QC gets straightened out!
I have been waiting for you to talk about this tech
Is this one low enough mass to work on a delta (Kossel XL) and eliminate delta retraction requirements? Or does it need the lower mass one you mentioned?
In my opinion even the other one I mentioned is likely too heavy for a Delta. I need to do some experiments. You want to do everything you can to make the effector weight almost nothing. Deltas are for speed printing and cool looking printer. They aren't for making accurate parts. Anything that sacrafices what Deltas are good at is a poor addition.
Is 17:55 your preferred way of determining the max flow rate?
What I hear from this review is, quality control issues and multiple design variants being sent out. I'll see if this becomes the new 'go to' hotend/extruder in a year or two or if it just fades away before I decide it is better than a Hemera.
Is it possible to be installed on an Ender 3? Would you share a link for buying it?
Biqu build awesome mainboards too. I have in my bigest 3D printer installed an BTT octopus v1.1. And with the TMC2209 is it the very quiet and I sleep neer by my printer. I would install in next time the Biqu H2o extruder, why i would cool everything on my monster printer with water and i would have 500 degrees print temperatur.
Hi DPT. Took about three weeks to get, but I got it. Opened the box, and the gears are locked up. Opened that up, took it apart, cleaned and (lightly) lubed everything I could. I could get it to rotate in one direction (retraction), but not the other.
Any chance you could go into more detail into what you did to get your working? If it's locked up solid, there is no way to tell where the rough spots are.
Thanks for any guidance.
Btw, mine seems to be the newer version where you can turn the connectors on the stepper around the other way without completely disassembling.
I covered the whole process in the video. Take it apart so you only have the two gears. No tension arm, no stepper. Get those two gears spinning freely by deburring the teeth and more importantly centering the axle like I showed. Then reassemble. When reinstalling the stepper put pressure against the side of the stepper as you tighten the bolts. Such that it is being forced away from the gear it meshes with. This will loosen the contact and now everything should rotate smoothly.
I had same exact problem and it worked out four me! if you follow DPT indications at 13:30 you will solve the problem! My extruder was not well tighten, they already know the problem and ship them anyway!!!
can you look at the new 500c version?
Just seeing this video for the first time and wow, surprised you had issues. This seems to be the case for a lot of thing i buy....that they have to be modified because of issues with manufacturing.
atleast you where consistent in redefining what a gram actually is :D
Where can you find this? It's sold out on Big Tree Tech's website.
Since heat rises the setup laying on its side will give you results that may differ if tested upright.
Neat, they moved the hot-end mount to the part with the heat-sink. One of the early reviews showed it connected to the gear carrier between the heat-sink and motor. This is a nice upgrade.
Personally those gears look like they're hobbed. I.e. the teeth are cut with a worm-gear like cutter. It's a fast process, they probably only had to spin the gear 5-10 times under the hob to cut the full profile. I assume the stepped gear is actually 2 parts pressed together? That would also let them Hob both parts. When I've seen Powder Metalurgy parts, they're made to net-shape without any finish machining and show an "oil filled bronze bushing" surface texture from the sintered powder. It's PM is a cheaper process in bulk, but requires expensive tooling to get started. Dewalt drill gear boxes are all powder metalurgy parts.
Triangle Labs Matrix LC is another "clone" that brings a lot to the table. In it's case, the liquid cooling also cools the stepper motor so it's extremely well suited to operating in a heated chamber. Also impressed by the Mellow Wind BMG inspired extruder and hot-end heat-sink. Put one on an old Mono-price printer and it prints everything fast, even tpu.
I have a BX, but still want to do a remote direct extruded.
I love the idea in theory. In practice, in my experience, the cable acts like a giant spring as it winds up. Very similar effect on extrusion to the way a bowden tube compresses/decompresses. I've only tested in extreme, demanding and oddball applications so everyone else's experience with a normal .4mm nozzle at "normal" print speeds is probably valid.
According to the aliexpress listing on their store, it has PTFE tubing inside the heatbreak, so it won't be great for high temperature stuff. I'm also nitpicky
That's really cool, but unfortunately I print 0,8 mm line width with 0,4 mm layer height quite a lot...
When are you going to do the plastic orbitor video? Thanks for your videos. I also support your views on what I call the "clone wars."
Try out "orbiter" extruder. You might like it even more.
ok.. 3D printer filament feeders ("extruders") are an adaptation of a feeder system that's been around for a very long time, used in mig welders, spring-forming machines, and other machines that require a continuous wire feed. It wasn't a novel invention by Bondtech or any 3D printer manufacturer, just an adaptation.
For the gears, if you want to take the time, you can use some lapping compound (particle abrasive suspended in typically linseed oil) in the teeth of the gears, and drive the gears with a drill motor to lap them in to precision match each other. Then thoroughly clean everything to remove all the abrasive, then reassemble and lubricate.
What's the current draw? Most of these new drives require so much current that they blow out your stock drivers and require new drivers and the knowledge to adjust them. The 800ma listed is way more than the 500ma most 3D printers are designed for. I've had this problem with BondTech and Hemera upgrades to my printers..
You need to test something like Tevo Tornado. Works excellently at 150mm/s
What software are you using the command the printer? The UI looks nice.
Reprap firmware on a Duet2 Wifi Control board.
Is it possible to fix the text at 20:06? The second to last should be 0.4 * 0.2 = 0.08mm^2
(I know the 2.5% difference has been discussed, so this isn't for that)
I can't fix that unless I reupload and that would piss a lot of people off who have already seen the video. Thank you for the correction though.
I like your review explanation. Thought: Could a motor be lighter if it was a DC servo?
In general, DC servos are more powerful (peak torque) at the same size as steppers. Expensive drive electronics though.
Yep. I've toyed with designing an extruder using a brushless outrunner, and compound planetary gears for high reduction. Tiny outrunners don't have much better continuous torque to weight ratio than steppers, but that torque doesn't drop off with speed until you get into the tens of thousands of RPM, so motor speed (and thus power) will only be limited by inertia/acceleration. The electronics/firmware is the hard part. I probably could do it, but I have a zillion higher priority projects so I doubt I'll ever get to it.
Still your favourite or BondTeck LGT Lite (that's Very new one) Would love to see you review LGT and LGT lite
th-cam.com/video/J031veLc8Xs/w-d-xo.html
I dont think that cloning is that bad, especially for us customers. So good companies keep on inovating and we get better components earlier. And we as customers win
Wire fed welders had dual hob gears long ago.
The end cases of a stepper motor already are aluminum. The center section needs to be steel because that's part of the magnetic mechanism of the motor itself. Unfortunately they're kind of as light as they can be.
off topic question did you try Rhino7 already if so . Like to hear your thought's on it
Yes. I'm using it right now. Worth the upgrade if one of the "What is new" features is something you can use. Otherwise, I'm not seeing any difference.
@@DesignPrototypeTest The mold making features are appealing to me. Whats your favorite new feature of Rhino 7?
Just an FYI, Biqu, I believe is the same company as BigTreeTech, who also make some of the best Marlin printer boards.
You could push the speed for 0.1 mm printing perfect for that
Did you get the upgraded 500c option?
Ah you finally found the orbiter extruder eh? Well you then have also obtained the correct LDO stepper for making a sherpa mini with. Which is alternatively possible. It can be put together using gears etc from a bondtech spare parts kit. All the partts list you can find online The sherpa mini weight is something around 120g. You cannot buy it yet as a pre-made item. Its designed to be printed from ABS or ASA. Cannot seem to find anything lighter than that as of right now. At least for these conventional style DDE where the stepper motor is being tightly integrated together with the extruder.
Lol, I'm guessing the rubber duck might be to help you with debugging?
Thanks for the video.!
Larger nozzle → higher resistance as Bernoulli's principle.
I think its more to the failure of the heater to melt large volume of plastic in short time that provoke higher flow resistance.
In the same condition larger nozzle will provide lower speed of material exiting the nozzle. assuming the nozzle as pipe with certain diameter and length,
Darcy-Weisbach equation suggest the pressure loss in the nozzle is proportional to ΔP = f * (l / d) ρv^2 /2
Where, f = friction coeff. of the nozzle surface, l = nozzle length, d = nozzle diameter.
Larger diameter always results lower pressure loss (less resistance). of course the shape before the orifice also plays significant part in the pressure loss,
but all of the calculation should have diameter in the division part of the equation so it should be less resistance (as long as the molten metal quality is the same for 2 nozzle size)
Did your opinion changed about the H2 after having it for a few months now?
Larger nozzle will result in lower pressure. It might be harder to print with larger nozzle because your hotend might not be able to melt the larger amount of material necessary.
The bearings may have been the problem all along - probably had a bit of a burr in there. Unless you removed the bearings before degreasing, you've likely stripped all the lubricant from them. That'll make even shot bearings spin like magic. Be sure to lube them up - dry bearings will wear out in no time!
Great video. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. Have you heard of the =takoto= / Bondtech BMG-M combination? It can print at over 200 mm/s with amazing accuracy.
I'm getting a Prusa Mini, can you roast it?
Seems like the teeth issue is not isolated to yours. I was going to buy one off of Amazon (no reviews)....checked a few days later and the only feedback was complaints about the gears. I decided to opt for an orbiter.
what about max aceleration that can be used on this extruder ?