Build your own 3D Printer: Everything about extruders!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 เม.ย. 2016
- Everything about extruders - one of the functionally most important parts of any filament-based 3D printer!
Building a RepRap-style 3D Printer without buying a full kit is still the purist's way to go - it's the cheapest and most flexible way of acquiring a 3D printer, but there are a lot of chances where stuff can go wrong. In this mini-series i'll try to cover the most important spots while Luk builds his iTopie i3!
Support OctoPrint patreon.com/foosel
Music is Maccary Bay Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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Man, It's amazing to see how far 3D printing has come within just 7 years.
"Size doesn't matter, as long as it fits" - Thomas Sanladerer
"it's more about the technics anyways" ;)
+Philippe Kirsch That's what she said ;)
goglu2 he**
Hmm, he managed to be offensive to both Asian guys and black guys
wow, you've gotten a lot better at this over the years.
Great stuff Thomas! I am embarking on a DIY large printer build and gathering info from all sorts of resources. This is a perfect merger and delivery of the info out there! Thanks and looking forward to more from the series.
I am really enjoying this series. I have my OctoPi, and RAMBo ready. I'm printing a delta frame on the printer here at the University of Alabama. I hope to be up and running by the end of May! Great vids Tom!
thank you for the informative video Tom, that was really useful and interesting!
Great video, I learned a few new things.
Thanks for sharing.
HI Thomas.. firstly I am very much learning how to 3d print in a very satisfying way because you made it happened...
Oh no! Octoprint is my favorite. This will be my first ever patreon pledge.
Great video Tom. I got my E3D Titan on release too. I plan to fit it, along with an E3D v6, to my BQ Prusa i3.
Love your videos. You are very good at explaining these things. Thanks!
I am using octoprint since 2014, never again without it. Its just so convenient.
Your great at explaining details, thanks.
Great series keep up the good work.
Great videos, thanks for all the work!
Can't wait for the titan review! Building a custom i3 setup. It needs to ooze awsomeness.
Excellent review as always please keep them coming. Looking forward to the review on the E3D Titan Extruder hopefully you will include super soft filament such as Nin*****x
I can't wait for the titan review. I really want to get one. Great video...
great video like always keep up the good work
Some finer finer points on the 3mm vs 1.75 mm exist ofc, but this video is spot on for first custom build ones :3
Oh, you kept reading to find the finer points? They are something like ...
- 3mm is more rigid than a 1.75mm counterpart. So if you have a brittle filament lying around ( mediocre PLA or a novelty filament) a 3mm part tolerates only rather careful handling before snapping. Don't try to change spools on 3mm filament , you may have a very snappy time D: (I speak from personal experience)
- 3mm may require a more delicate extruder control, and a heavier duty hotend because of the larger mass being heated.
- 1.75mm buckles easier . So a 1.75mm flexible filament is hard to extrude ... it buckles and clogs in any slight gap that it's not perfectly directed. There are good 1.75 extruders for flexible filament though. And with 1.75 becoming more popular more filaments are available in both diameters, so there is more flexible 1.75 filament spools to choose from.
- If you are gonna print BIG BUILDS you need 3mm for 1.5 reasons:
1) speed of printing. A 1.75mm extruder needs to go faster for the same material per second being fused.
1.5) You don't need the detail of a 0.3mm nozzle, so you may go with a .8 or even 1mm nozzle. Which will give you smoothier printing ... and faster printing. But faster printing means faster extruding. A NEMA motor can only go so fast! ...
- For small prints the finer control on a 1.75 mm direct drive and small nozzles it may be worth it. Its kind of the opposite of the previous point i made.
TLDR:
¿ New to 3D printing ?
3 or 1.75 mm filament ?
Whatever your local distributors have. Whcih most likely will be 1.75. And its getting way more common and available.
:3
Great video, thanks Thomas :)
I think the only thing your videos miss is studio laughter for your jokes:)
What Jokes? ...
@@CodeLeeCarter It's german humor
I would love a more detail video on the delta 3D printers and how you made yours.
year 2020. im still watching this video. i print something everyday.
same here :)
Do make a video on Delta printers. Calibration, firmware and most importantly about determining their height and length ratios and build volume.
"You cannot convert a hotend from one size to the other" -- that depends on the hot end -- SeeMeCNC made a hotend with a teflon liner that goes all the way into the melt zone -- converting between the sizes is as simple as swapping out the liner for one with a different inner diameter. (They provided liners for both 1.75 and 3mm.)
Thanks for the excellent video. I would like to ask something about bed adhesion. After your suggestion I was using UHU stick for bed adhesion. It was very good for both PLA and ABS. In my last purchase of UHU stick, I have seen that it has a new formula badge on it and It performed very poorly with ABS. Did you notice anything similar?
Mehmet
Is there any advantage in having the effectively more steps per mm extruded that gearing gives if you use 1,75mm filament?
Hey Thomas will you be at the Rapid Tech in Erfurt?
Are you ever going to do a video on that all metal delta that's always lurking in the background? If you have can someone shoot me the link?
Where do I find the extruder you have used for the giant Delta printer? :)
Best regards Sebastian
Thanks for another superb video Tom.
I'm seriously considering the E3D Titan, now I know you have one to review, I will wait till I see your video on it ... can't wait.
I would also like to buy a Big Box, but I am looking for something with a bigger print volume, something like the GMax 1.5 XT+. Ideally I wish E3D would do something that size.
+Spike Kent I considered getting a Big Box but in the end decided to build a gCreate gMax 1.5 XT ++ for about $1100 and I am loving the build volume size and printer itself. I have videos on my channel documenting the build.
Wow, great work Kevin.
I've just watched your videos. Looks like the way to go for me too. I hadn't realised that G-Create had all the info there for all.
Thank you so much mate.
Can you do a review on the Reprap Duet controller?
Who made the hobbed pulley at 3:45? It looks pretty nicely machined.
Edit: oh, E3D Hobb Goblin?
Tom. So when using the 3mm; do you use or can you use a larger nozzle and speed up your prints?
Or should my question be can you go faster with 3mm without sacrificing quality?
Thanks for your "to the point" vids.
Could you do a firmware setup tutorial
Thomas, You should consider an DIY episode of building a 3D printer from scratch (buying and selecting components) for say less than $600 (or what ever). Component selection, assembly and testing.
Cheers
Firing up the new titan on a rigidbot tomorrow!!!!!!! I also am trying out Dyze design extruder and hotend combo on another printer
thank you for not making these videos 20 minute rambles
What was the 3D printed geared (non-Bowden) extruder used in this video?
What is a good hotend that has a mini motor in it but that is also light enough to fit on a mini delta printer like a 101 hero? My hotend is terrible but in general it would seem that the rest of the 101 hero components are ok. I don't want to throw it out... just upgrade the hotend without having the boudin thing where the motor is on the side. Any ideas? I remember you reviewed the tiny deltaprinter mini hotend but if I am not mistaken that one does not have a motor on it.
i have a kossel xl with modified 12mm magnets on the diagonal rods. smoothieboard, 1.75
I struggle to get the speed up as its one of the "original" direct china extruders... do You have a prefered printable (or to be bought) geared extruderYoiu can recommend?
Thanks for Your videos :) appreciated..
I converted my anycubic i3 mega to direct drive and all I gained was trouble. flexibles printed fine and still print the same (at 35-30mm/s) maybe 5mm/s faster. same stringing which was close to nothing before. just more ghosting more issues (so many issues related to direct drive) and more heating on the extruder since now it's a tiny stepper. not to mention repairing and messing with my printer needs me to take the carriage off and unscrew the titan and take out my e3d v6 from there.
however I need some help with my printer cr-10 v2.. printing in a very long hours makes my extruder failed to extrude midpoint... I even tried to removed my extruder motor gear and tension spring for cleaning and end up well for few hours but poblem still there after 7 to 10 hours printing time....waisted so much filament and time.. bed temp and hotend is ok... but I've noticed that my extruder area like the surface of the tension spring lever is getting hotter az well when printing overnight for 10 hours... really need help how to fix this... Thans a lot. more power to your vlog.
Hey Tom, do you have a link to the white bowden extruder used in this video (The one on the metal extrusions)?
Thanks, James.
+Thomas Sanladerer Thanks :-).
Hey Tom, have you ever encounter an extruder that refuses to calibrate? Doesn't matter the e-steps it always extrudes about 50mm
I usually always agree with you Tom, but choosing between a 3mm and 1.75mm Filament extruder makes a big difference. 1.75mm Filament works great with standard Polymers, however specialized FIlament usually always works better with a 3mm. PVA as a tricky polymer and works betterr in 3mm than in 1.75mm. Also as soon to be published research shows, 1.75mm Filament tends to emits a higher amount of particles than a 3mm Filament.
Thanks for many shout outs :)
Hey Thomas, regular viewer of your content. Quick question, has anyone ever tried using an RJ45 connection as a quick connect for 1. Heater block, 2. Thermistor, 3. Fan? Trying to find a way to quickly connect and disconnect these parts and the local hardware store (HomeDepot in Canada) suggested RJ45 network connectors. I'm sure it will work for the thermistor and fan as its not drawing a lot of current, but worried about the heater block.
Thanks!
Thanks for responding so quickly! I tried it out and the problem is that the cables that go into the RJ45 male connector have to be the perfect diameter. I tried a pair that were coming off a fan I bought and they were too big. I guess I'm sticking to Molex or something like that. Really appreciate the quick response.
Thanks!
It would be cool if foosel came on the show. Gina rocks
Do you have a UK Amazon affiliate link?
hey tom, what are your thoughts of using a direct mount extruder and still mounting the stepper on the frame utilizing something like a cable drive or mabe a pto like shaft to get the effects of a bowden without the hassels of the tube?
There are a few products out there that seem to make exactly that work, but I've not tried them yet.
Do you know what they'called?
Thomas Sanladerer hey! do you happen to know how ultimaker's X & Y axes work?
I would recommend a Bowden because the stepper is a lot more weight for the x axis motor lug around
Nice
can you build a 3d printer with squares tubing
You mentioned stuff about the drive gear profiles but didn't point to any specific drive gears as recommendations for building your own printer. Looking around online, I saw things but ultimately didn't know enough for what's good so I decided to come back here and ask you: any specific drive gear recommendations?
What did you end up going with?
Could I put a new extruder on my pursa i3
Hello Thomas, I'm in the process of buying a 3d printer for the first time, I have a big roll of filament 200meters, it is flat about 5mm x 1 mm, I would like to know if the extruder will be able to feed that type of filament or it will need to be modified. Thanks in advance
Pancho Villa build a filastruder!
So e3d Titan review soon?
+Thomas Sanladerer Great! I'm happy you're doing this series, I've just started to convert my Kossel into a P3Steel. Hopefully I can pick some new tips up on the way. I have an unassembled E3D titan, mostly because I have a lot of trust in those guys.
Will you be covering calibration some more? What's your go to guide for Cartesian calibration?
+MiNiD33 I was about to ask the same thing!
Ooh yea, would love to see one of those, but ordered one yesterday, so hope it's good.. :\
+Thomas Sanladerer Come on! It's currently 21 hours since you said that. What's taking you so long? ;-)
why don't they use a type of rubber to grip the plastic in the extruder instead of metal teeth? or would it just slip? but in that case, just apply more pressure.
You can't apply an arbitrary amount of pressure because the motor will bind up, the motor shaft is supported by bearings which will only take so much lateral force, and that's not a terrible much at all. And yes, filament is pretty slippery against rubber and the behaviour of rubber is going to be inherently inconsistent, prone to surface-hardening, temperature-dependence, and aging. I think it's much more reliable to have the hobbed gear or two mechanically notch the filament and advance it that way, the way it's being done now.
I am using repeater host and mid print I just stops heater are still on but no move men windows 8 pls help
oooohhhoooo it's more about the tekniq anyways. hahah
So I bought an i3 kit years ago and am pretty happy about it, but I would like to get into flexible filament. The current i3 has a direct drive for 1.75 mm. After looking into things a bit, I'm thinking about getting another i3 kit for 3mm flexible filament. I also am going to maybe move to a bowden extruder on the old printer as its just for PLA prints and I hear that can really make a difference. I'll convert the direct drive on the new i3 for 3mm use then. Are there not really 3mm direct drive extruder on the market anymore? I see lots of listed 1.75 units, but nothing listed as 3mm. Or maybe I just need a gear hob replacement for 3mm use and get a hotend nozzle for 3mm? If Anyone has any tips or can point me in the right direction, that'd be awesome.
personaly i only known the wade Reloaded extruder.
Which was shown in this video.
Is there a way to find help with printer, because it prints really badly and no one can't help me???
Signed up to Gina, but why don't you have a Patreon account?
so BQ completely abandoned Octoprint development? What future do we expect for it? I'm going to support via Patreon...
HAHA Tom back at it with the penis jokes ;P
what about printing pure beeswax? what should i do to achieve it?
Heated paste extruder. Typical paste extruders are basically syringes. You can by all reason get a glass syringe and wrap some nichrome around it to keep it at temperature.
can you run two hotend on your 3d printer
Yes, you can run a dual extruder setup, or swap out one with another
This is sad to hear. I will become a patreon for Gina Häußge. I am working on a project right now tom that I am using a pi zero as the basis of octoprint. (Octopi). I will mention this on my next Octopi-zero video. Thank you for spreading some awareness concerning this project. Most people think that open source is 100% free, with that said the devs and the people who contribute their time have to live as well. Since they all live in the real world, financial backing is a must.
Built my own and nothing but issues due to the non flat bed. Over 2 years I have tried to get anything flat to arrive and UPS/USPS always bends them. I give up and I am about to buy a knock off of the Flashforge Creator Pro and that way if it comes bent it is on the manufacturer since the bed will be inside a fully enclosed metal case. The only way I could ever get anything for the bed to arrive flat, besides buying an entire printer, is if the item was shipped in a wooden frame.
+Dark Alchemist Just buy a 8mm (1/3 -1/4 inch) thick aluminum plate, as it will for shure not bend, and then use blue painters tape to get started with printing pla !
EchterOsti
Yeah, was thinking of tool plate but on an I3 with a moving Y the weight of even 1/4in (6.35mm) is over 2 pounds so 8mm would be close to 2.5-5 pounds and that will never work.
In my school we actually have a Velleman printer that moves the platform in both X and Y, and (for budget reasons) i also am using an 8mm aluminum plate on that. It works with speed of up to 55 mm/s ! (btw they are dirt cheap in the range from 5-10 mm, at least thats how it is in Germany)
Cheers
Peter
EchterOsti
6.35mm aluminum tool plate will cost,with shipping, 40 USD. I am waiting on a quote to see how much extra it will be to have 6 counter sunk holes drilled.
Oh wow ! In Germany, such a plate costs about 8 Euro (9 $). Let me see if i can find the reseller (ships from Germany) for you !
can anyone tell me what the ending beat is?
Darude - Sandstorm
Hmm, I always called the whole assembly extruder, being made up of the feeder and the hotend… *shrug*
Huh, is 3mm really the most common? I've thought it was always 1.75mm, I've mostly been using bowden printers though.
+Thomas Sanladerer Ahh, ok. Yeah the small bit of time I'd had to deal with 3mm filament in the local hackerspace really was enough for me. I find it really stiff and annoying to work with. 1.75mm is the diameter for me :P
rofl i love the comment twords the end about the technique instead of "size" that matters... nice pun
lol on size ^^
LOL, OMG you delivered that joke totally deadpan and didn't laugh. I signed up to support Gina the other day. What about Patreon for you? There are 3D printing channels that provide much less than you do, that have Patreon.
And how to find "next video" 3 years later?
That aged well
On your point about being tricky getting an adapter for your extruder... Check out www.3dhubs.com for people who will print things for you for a small fee. That's how I'm getting my parts made.
pls suggest a 3d printer inder 250$
If you want a kit under 250$ I would recommend the anet a8
Or the tevo terantula
Or if you want a delta the anycubic kossel
Your welcome
Ender 2 is also a very good option i can recommend from own experience
Hey Tom, is there any way I could contact you via email, so I can do an interview for a college paper?
How did the paper turn out?
i only buy plastic by weight
Clear as vodka
huh?
1.75 * 3 is not 3mm :P its more like 1.75*1.75
So its 75% more plastic per meter, not 300% as you said(3 times).
+Johan Lindström area for 1,75 is 2,405 and area for 3 is 7,069, pretty close to 3 times more
1.75 mm and 3 mm are the diameter of the filament. Area is pi*(diameter/2)^2. Area for 1.75 mm filament is about 2.4 mm^2 and area for 3 mm filament is about 7.1 mm^2 => which is right at 3 times more cross sectional area which means 3 times the volume per unit length.