Do I regret Buying The Biqu H2 V2S Lite Direct Drive Extruder? - My Experience
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มิ.ย. 2024
- My experience installing and using the Biqu H2 V2S Lite was horrible, especially in the beginning. The customer service as slow and seemed like the language barrier really got in the way of any real progress.
Having now recovered from the nightmare that was installing it, would I now recommend the V2S Lite to people? A contingent yes.
Let me know what you thought of the video in the comments! :)
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Where Can You Buy My Gear?
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Biqu H2 V2S Lite: amzn.to/3eMj6u6
Reliable BL Touch: amzn.to/3TDJepz
Volcano Heat Blocks: amzn.to/3DgSdI7
Volcano Nozzles: amzn.to/3F1mtYG
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Time Stamps:
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0:00 - Video Start
2:48 - Con 1 (Nozzle Availability)
3:52 - Con 2 (Bad/Slow Support)
6:08 - Con 3 (Mounts, Shrouds, Firmware Building Issues)
7:25 - Fan Shroud Design Issues
9:47 - I Buy Another (Bad Experience)
12:26 - More Bad Customer Service
14:00 - I Find My Own Solution
14:58 - Pros and Cons Overview
15:53 - Print Examples
18:12 - Would I Recommend It?
20:36 - What's To Come!
Replaced the Heater block and Nozzle assembly of the H2 V2S Lite with one from BIQU H2, to save all the hassle of re-configuring to H2 V2S. Had recently upgraded to BIQU H2. Working even better now. (using on Ender 5 Plus). Not the perfect solution to buy both Extruders and swap parts, but saves a lot of trouble.
Hi.
Is the same thread size?
I am trying to figure that out.
Wonder if you reconsidered the Micro Swiss option throughout this situation? I love my Direct Drive NG. Pretty much just drop-in on my ender 3 clone with a change of e-steps and nozzle offsets. Came with a printed(PLA) fan shroud. USA based and all the other benefits that comes with.
(This is my other account). I ended up returning the extruders to buy a new set of printers but then ended up returning all of those as they had some issues and purchased 2 Bambulabs X1Carbons with AMS systems. I'll never look back, they are without exception the best printers on the market atm, insane.
Have you actually used the product? I mean... that's the first review I watch that the product does not appear - not even a shaky video made with your phone... That might be an interesting idea. I will make a review of a Ferrari right now!
I think you're looking for a review video. I was sharing my experience with the entire process and that what I actually had to speak on was the brand and they way they go about business. Their choices with this product specifically weren't good ideas until months later when they could provide adequate support and parts.
I'll be making a review once I have conducted enough printing and can talk about it more in-depth, something you're probably looking for.
To answer your question though, yes I have used the product lol.
@@TheNerdArmory Show it on video - or… never actually happened 🤣 Thanks for replying. I saw photos and ads about this extruder - it looks super cool, but no actual footage of anyone using it. You have an opportunity! Don’t be perfectionist nor procrastinate - just show it being used! Everybody will like to see it working!
I’ll be waiting to see it! Good luck! 🍀
really highlights how bad marlin is if you’re setting things up yourself. Amazing for running in the most meager mcu’s, but if you’re tinkering with a 3D printer then the cfg file system of Klipper is a game changer 🎉
I did a mount that did not have the top strap in ABS. Half way thru printing the Benchy print it sagged and started hitting the Benchy. Just lucky it did not break the heat break. 2nd time I have printed a mount. I 'm done with plastic mounts. Going with 19 gauge aluminum plate and using (4) 3/8 inch standoffs to get it away from and not block cooling of the hot end.
Replacement parts are available on the site now.
The parts are smaller than the Regular H2 Extruder.
Yeah they also took the sale of the item down for a time which was a very good choice.
Looks like this is the only video I could find on TH-cam, on the Lite version. Still searching for more guide before placing my order.
It's definitely still not something I'd look to buy, yet.
Check their website and wait until there's more than JUST the 0.6mm nozzle (as they now have that on their website only, it'll take 2 weeks to get it you). When they have everything available, especially on amaozn, pull the trigger as by then I'm sure someone's made a mount for your printer too.
IDK, sounds a lot like you bought the wrong one and then didn't know how to use it. I've been running the old H2's for a while now and I'm definitely looking into this one as an upgrade.
if you think about it, they probably went for the m4 nozzles to save a bit of brass, as it´s heavier than the aluminium heatblock, weird design choice. If you have a decent metal worker at hand the heatblock can be fixed with a good quality drillpress or a lathe. I personally would use the m6 heatbreak thread to center a 5mm drill bit and then drill out the m4. This way you can come in from the heatbreak side again with a m6 threadcutting tool and have a continous m6 thread all through the block. Thermally this shouldn´t be a problem - less heatblock but more nozzle, the thermal mass should be the same.
actually it allows heat and thermal conductivity in a higher performance application.. Faster melting :)
Would the Revo version of the H2 V2S Lite be a better option than this or would you avoid that?
From memory it was similar to this one and would have similar issues but i've since moved on and bought several Bambu printers where the only issues i've had have been from my own doing and it hasn't been many. I grew tired of tinkering with my printers and now, thankfully, i print around the clock with a very low margin of faliure. I'm very pleased I was able to return these Biqus!
These issues are all pretty normal, I own 3 x H2's, they are okay, but I find you will need to design and print your own mounts and ducts to suit your machine, and its hard to get anything just right, its an awkward shaped thing, its gears have no backlash adjustment either, personally, I would recommend just using a Sherpa or similar and an E3D V6, cheap and easy to work with.
I just ordered one of these lites and ordered spare nozzles with it as there out now but the bad is only .6 nozzles are available in spares. I got an idex so I’m running one lite and one h2 v2 so that when I need .4 atleast I got it covered. If I didn’t have a idex I also wouldn’t have considered this h2v2 lite. I’ve got several h2v2s already
I recently bought a new H2 V2S revo direct extruder. Any new extruder will require the community to develop new mounts and fan ducts. The extruder prints beautifully. The only thing I’ve noticed it does is click during retractions. It doesn’t seem to affect its function or print quality. I did manage to jam it printing TPU.
Yeah in the end where the overview is I shared a tip to stop the clicking from other vids I've seen.
I absolutely enjoy using this extruder but as we speak I'm creating a mount and fan duct system that will replace what I'm use now and be 50 time setter. This just isn't cutting it and there's a little play in the whole thing which I think is affecting the print.
Cheers for checking the vid out
do you mind me asking which mount you used? I have a Biqu B1 and can't seem to find a steady mount to hold it to the printer.
@@andrew5821 If this was directed at me, i have a Neptune 2 so it won't be the same for you. If not, carry on haha.
@@andrew5821 you can use the Eva tool head setup and download and print the H2 adapter off thingiverse. This way you can easily mount and get plenty of cooling etc..that's what u did
The click noise could be reduced by fine tuning the retraction on the slicer. I use 3mm at 20mm/s for pla and 2mm at 20mm/s for petg. I know some people goes lower at. 5mm at 10mm/s. But you definitely need to adjust this settings
I wish I had seen this video before I bought mine. I'm getting clicking on every retraction. I'm going to try to lower the retraction distance and speed way down to see if that fixes it, otherwise I'm returning and buying another Orbiter + Dragonfly which is what I have on my other machine and I love that combo.
I thankfully returned all of mine and joined the bambu kickstarter for the x1c line and never looked back, best decision ever. I thought i liked tinkering, turns out i like printer more XD
5:29 LOADSHEDDING!!!! Daily struggle for us South Africans.
I am not sure if you looked any time soon but you can get the Nozzles in 0.6 and 0.4 both brass and harden steel now I don't now about amazon but I have always ordered direct from them any who I waited a long time for Nozzles as well mostly for the hardened steel ones but yeah can get them now
Yeah it took them a few weeks. It was just shameless that they were selling a product they couldn't sell the needed accessories for. I sold it all and bought four X1c's and I've neve been happier.
@@TheNerdArmory thats Awesome I did keep mine actually I have all of them for some reason I started collecting them not sure why, but yep the H2O is awesome!! but very valid point I shelfed mine waiting for hardened steel nozzles (vs2 lite)
I would've maybe bit the bullet and bought it, but the proprietary nozzle is an absolute deal-breaker. It's not available locally, and I'm not keen on shipping something like a nozzle from overseas - nevermind that it's only available in 0.4 and 0.6 sizes even now! What were they thinking?
I've since learned that it's actually not their own. It's jsut a new nozzle type that we'll see more of as time goes on, i just didn't like the fact they weren't UPFRONT about it and just let people suffer for months with now way of getting a replacement or other sizes. It was too early to release and they didn't care.
Nice piece of machinery.
You can get the nozzles on AE, but they're $10 a piece. CNC kitchen has a video on using regular nozzles in volcano hotends, I'm sure it would apply to this too.
I did get the $10 nozzles and they are superior but I'll be making a video showing why I swapped to a Bambu and I've never been happier
@@TheNerdArmory Nice. I've been thinking about adapting the Bambu hotend. I'm going to subscribe so I don't miss that.
I checked and the nozzles are on the extruder page itself , as an option. They have 0,4 and 0,6 brass and hardened
Yes, they were always going to bring them out but it's the idea that they released the product with no way to get the nozzles for them for weeks or months. This issue is resolved now due to time but the experience with them shows that i'd never buy from them again and many i've spoken with has shown that others have had the same experience. :/
The H2 with revo heater looks promising, but what a price uplift ...
i would return it and get the bique h2 v2s revo, it has plenty of 0.6, 0.4 and 0.8 nozzles for sale aftermarket and you can change nozzles with your fingers, its a godsend!
This is what I wish you guys did BEFORE you released the V2S Lite and most of the unhappy customers would never have lost faith in your brand in the first place. It's a shame there's still no other sizes, but it's a step in the right direction.
@@TheNerdArmory 😇Hi! Now only the 0.6mm spare nozzles are available. But later other sizes options will hit the online shops. Please stay tuned!
There is a mount compatible with the MAD duct on printables and I've also designed one myself if you'd like me to share it
If only i'd found out before designing my own haha. That's ok, no matter. I made mine with extra things in mind so today I should be done with it and will print to see what happens.
I would say never buy the first revision of any new BTT product. My 2 BTT CB1 boards have a wrong chip on it so Wifi doesn't work on 5V. The BTT H2 V2 screw that holds the heat throat easily gets stripped, I had to drill it out and tap a new hole in the extruder. I see that the new versions of the H2 series have a better screw.
I had the exact same issues. Had the exact same way of progressing. It's like I am watching my own story.
Funny thing is, i'm going to go back to it when the nozzle sixes are available. 0.6mm doesn't cover all of my projects.
Funnily enough, i've discovered a huge increase in print quality due to one part that i don't know that this uses, so i'll be making a video on that because this is with the volcano end but if I went back to biqus, idk if i'll be able to use the same part.
@@TheNerdArmory I just got the vulcano as well, so now I am very interested!
1 month later, and I seem to have mine working properly. I still need to do test print, but I have everything assembled with a raspberry pi 3B+ running klipper & fluiddpi, The biqu lite with vulcano hot end and E3D thermistor. I am using a buck converter (make sure to get a proper one with cooling) to power the raspberry pi. Next up is printing (self made) a new biqu lite mount, as I am not yet fully satisfied with the ones I found online.
sorry for the crooked grammer
For anyone who wishes to know, I believe I paid: 450 for the ender 6, and 100 (biqu lite) + 100 (raspberry pi 3B+) + 45 (raspberry pi B+ (got scammed)) + 250 (vulcano bltoutch cables nozzles, sensors etc) = 895. so be prepared to put down quite a bit more if u wish to change your configuration from the stock model.
nova hotend is M4 standard, as well as the new xg hotend from dropeffect
and you can print 0.4 line width with 0.6 nozzle with the same quality
5:12 because their" workmate are engineers, which probably don't speak english lol.
biqu has a fan duct that you can download
and you don't need to recompile the firmware becasue estep changee can be made with gcode
Heyo!
I think there's some confusion with a few things both on your and my part. I'm actually glad to hear that the M4 nozzle is being used in other pieces of gear as it explains a lot about my experience and i'll be using this information in my upcoming video so I appreciate you educating me on that.
I know that you can print a shallower line width with a larger nozzle but I run prints with an 0.4 so I can print 0.2 for a few super fine things I do lol. I know I didn't explain that but there's a reason I needed a 0.4.
As for their workmate, you're most definitely right but there were some very basic stuff that I was looking to find out that's really just the job of the person responding to e-mails, the basics. It just felt like this big company, big in my eyes at least didn't have a dedicated support and they didn't know any of the answers. Well, that's not true, they were helpful with some but others took 4 days to get a response over simple stuff that no expert should have been required.
The duct is good to know but i've gone ahead and designed my own out from scratch because I wanted a sturdier design, designed to print in one piece without supports. (Well, the bl touch and fan flowing tubes would be separate but the rest firm and sturdy as one).
The firmware side of things, I did need to recompile to tell the printer where my nozzle sits now, where my bltouch is in conjunction with the nozzle position and then to tell the printer the offset where 0, 0 on the X and Y is now. I think i recall there being 1 other way but recompiling was easier and made more sense because you'd want to be on marlin to really get the most of out a product like this anyway.
Thanks for stopping by and again, very glad to hear it's a new nozzle coming into the scene. I'll definitely give it another try when there's finally nozzles available. I just shouldn't have a paperweight I can't use and have to wait weeks to finalise communication and shipping so i can get back up and running. If I could amazon a nozzle in 2 days, problem solved :P
I don't understand why cooling.
I print with PETG and do not use cooling.
Increase Jerk Speed
There will be no threads
Exact same experiences/ problems/ path/ solutions/ support/ volcano option.
+ I'll add a problem with loading TPU- after 3 unsuccessful attempts and disassembly of the extruder, I just gave up for now
I share your positive sentiments on the build quality etc. but have to say that the heat block through bore for the heating elements seems like a half baked idea and just bad design.
would I recommend it? if you don't know what you're doing and not too capable and don't have spare time- definitely not
if you are capable and have a lot of free time- definitely not-
I'm not even going into the pros and cons- the proprietary hotend assembly parts (not to mention no nozzle availability even on their site) - is a bullshit bully move.
this aggression will not stand, man.
not into buying something and being strong armed into an eco system- for no good reason
Well said. With that in mind, I've spent half a day designing a shroud and mount ad an all in one solution and hopefully in be done with it soon. I'm honestly proud I was able to design one and I also opted to design it around using the gantry bearing bolts so it's much stronger.
@@TheNerdArmory
funny, similar story here- I'm using one of the bolts too- have been even with the original design (biqu b1 printer).
for the "lite" I used cut pieces from the original printhead aluminum housing combined with custom printed parts for a reliable stable mount.
share you're results once done! feel free to reach out if you have some issues with it, perhaps I could assist
Will do for sure! I'll have to include it in the next vid.
You complain about so many things unrelated to the extruder. Just because your printer isn't dialled in and you got stringing doesn't mean the extruder is bad. Needing to reconfigure the Z-offset is normal when using a new extruder. If that takes you 3 nights that's your fault, not the extruders. If you need a nozzle that is not manufactured, that's once again your fault for buying something without doing the bear minimum amount of research before. Same goes for the mount. If there is no mount and you are not able to create one yourself don't buy the extruder. Did you really expect that biqu would manufacture a mount just for your printer?
Im totally aware of all of the points you're made, you're totally right.
I was making this vid as a "this was my experience" for people who might find themselves sin the same place.
Ofc so much time as passed now lost of these issues aren't real anymore. But back at this time, it was certainly things to consider regardless of who's fault certain issues were.
I really appreciate your input though! Upgraded to a fleet of x1c's and haven't looked back since. :)
Work mate. subcontract or sub supplier.
Sunrise extruder is better
By far
its a clone of the drop effect nozzle
You really should not be reviewing products that are not at your level of skillset. You complain about things in your video that are normally easily solved by people that are involved in DIY 3d printing. I was hopping to see feedback on technical data, print speeds, quality of print, and durability. Instead, I heard whining and complaining for things that really matter to individuals that are not DIY tinkerers but buy turn key machines. This extruder system is clearly for the DIYer, and it will require tinkering to get it going. We know that. You would want to state your perspective in the beginning of your videos otherwise you are not going to get a lot of love here…
Exactly!
The screws are 7071 Aluminium, so they are soft, but changing any nozzle on any hotend, you must heat it to full operating temperature before removal and reinstallation, I usually heat to 280° C, you also approached this Chinesium infused product like it was made for a general consumer, which it is not, you are a customer that needs a simple bolt on product that comes with everything for your model printer, including an updated firmware, I have designed multiple complete mounting and cooling solutions for the H2, and I can state, its not real great to work with, and I have only one left in operation on a RatRig, and the clicking gears are getting to me. @TheNerdArmory if your still using this extruder, hit me up as I have a nice 5015 balanced part cooling system that can be easily adapted to the extended heat block your using, one of my video's shows the H2 in operation, but if you would like, I can design you a direct drive extruder system that will be cheaper, easier to maintain, spares are everywhere and will out perform the H2 and the V2S, as you obviously haven't tried printing a nice soft TPE or TPU yet, as it would also be listed under your CON's, spoiler, it cant print them, will tangle and jam every time.
You know it's funny you brought up the TPU because I actually went direct drive to be able to try out TPU but I didn't have this for very long.
Once I got it working, it did print nicely so I bought 2 more for my other printers but after a short time they started jamming on everything all of the time and with all of the other issues i'd already had it just didn't seem like a reasonable product when you look at the experience you have with other parts for printers from similar brands so it seemed to me they should've done a little more thinking..
I returned everything i bought for them and around the same time i was so slammed with christmas orders, on my first chirstmas that I didn't know what to do with myself and pre-ordered something I kept hearing literally only good things about... The Bambu X1 Carbon Combo.... Welp.......... I bought a 2nd one it was just that good.
I'll make a follow up video about all of this as well as videos on the bambu considering the fact the only downside to them is once you've used one, you'll hate all of your other printers (which i promptly sold lol).
@@TheNerdArmory Agree on the Bambu Labs that's the sort of printer for people like yourself, you just need a tool that is point and shoot, and works everytime, maybe and overkill for just PLA, but they are good and time is money, I like to build my own printers from scratch or mod/upgrade others as this is what I enjoy the most about 3D printing, I would get annoyed with the Bambu and want to remove all the proprietary stuff and put Klipper on it :) but for a print farm tool, the Bambu is awesome, if your after just pure volume and more printers in less space, then the Kingroon KP3S are the go, you can get 8 of them for the price of 1 x Bambu.
@@NexGen-3D I enjoyed upgrading them as well. I was so close to going a voron over the bambu but when it came to orders and if a printer was down, i was screwed. I really liked it as a hobby but when it's making me money, i prefer the easier reliability.
I may still get a voron at some point as i'm still a techhead and like building and crafting but hearing nothing bad about the bambu, i'm very happy I went with it now.
@@TheNerdArmory Agree, I have my QIDI Tech printers as my old faithfulls for customer based printing, and all my hotrods are just for tinkering, I will be looking at swapping out the Qidi Tech's at some point for the Bambu as well, its like when you have that custom off road or high performance car versus your daily driver, one you need to get you to work and back, and cant do without, the other, if it breaks, you can just leave it, if you want any advice on 3D printed products in the future, hit me up, my email address is on my channel, happy to help people in the community specially us in Australia, as its still quite small here.
The normal H2 runs the standard V6 nozzles, I use the hardened nozzles from my microswiss direct drive, they fit perfectly. The m4 is just the thread size. U should have no issues by running the standard e3d nozzles that fit the V6. I mean as cheap as some of the nozzles are on Amazon you could have dropped 30 bucks and figured out which nozzles work
I indeed bought cheap nozzles and then the e3d nozzles and there will be a video coming up about this very topic!
@@TheNerdArmory so did they work like they do on the normal ones
@@twistedsocal This was after I changed to the volcano hotend and yes, they printed SO much nicer than my $20 set of nozzles I got on amazon. I'm not having troubles with quality but I think its due to a bad mount and blower design so that should be printed today. Fingers crossed.
@@TheNerdArmory man the Eva tool head is sick, I know it's not made specifically for this hot end setup but with the printable adapter plate and a fat blower with the tri horn style part cooling ducts, it's rad..