How to fix a jammed biqu H2 extruder

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2021
  • These biqu H2 extruders are great, but they do tend to Jam, this is how I sort that out when it happens to me. This stops it jamming altogether.
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ความคิดเห็น • 19

  • @charlesfield9286
    @charlesfield9286 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I’d given up on that extruder but I’m going to give it another try. Thanks

  • @enricovivona9512
    @enricovivona9512 2 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    My extruder was jamming on EVERY print for over a month. Your video inspired a slightly different solution. I believe the tolerances/quality control on the H2 are the issue . I loosened the screws to the point where the stepper would even move when I turned the gears manually.The gears rotated smoothly again like new and not a single jam!

    • @Neilsnonsense1
      @Neilsnonsense1  2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Ace, mines behaved itself since, hope yours stays jam free. Fingers crossed.

  • @cordeljohns
    @cordeljohns ปีที่แล้ว

    I have the V2. It was jamming periodically, even though I could still turn it manually. I followed the instructions, with the exception that the motor was moved towards me, and the body away. It's been working well so far.

  • @kitcarlson6033
    @kitcarlson6033 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I work with early sewing machine motors. I find the best way to get them reassembled without running friction is to run them at a medium speed as end covers are adjusted and tightened down. It is possible to find sweet spot, of lowest running friction. Real problem may be manufacturing tolerances, and how they stack up.

  • @egoodchild
    @egoodchild 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hey Neil! Thanks for your help, it helped me resolve a very frustrating reconstruction job. So the wheels are back to turning... but for how long? We will see! Thanks again, really appreciate you sharing your info.

  • @TotoGuy-Original
    @TotoGuy-Original ปีที่แล้ว

    i just upgraded to the biqu revo i had one similar to your older one you showed however mine was the model before yours so it was made of aluminium only no plastic (was a bugger to mount though!) now i have the H2 V2S REVO
    dont have jamming problems but this is good to know incase i do get any issues

  • @docmalc47
    @docmalc47 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for the video. I purchased two and both did the exact same where it seems as though the tpu backlashed inside of the extruder assembly. My motor doesn't seem loose like yours - everything is mounted tight. Which is the other pain, I have the remove the entire X carriage assembly then the mount from assembly just to be able to remove the h2 from the mount which then I have to disassemble the H2... and then put it all back together again haha... I've done it 3x in last 2 days and its gotten a bit old.
    I do like it tho... weird thing is, both times, it printed absolutely terrific! Until it didn't.
    I think I'm just going to return them both. I don't mind troubleshooting and tinkering to get things working but the amount of work that has to go into being able to troubleshoot and fix is too much. And at the price point I shouldn't have to I feel.

    • @Neilsnonsense1
      @Neilsnonsense1  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      That's a real shame, I wonder what's happening, is the TPU spewing inside of the extruder ?

    • @docmalc47
      @docmalc47 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Neilsnonsense1 it's weird because it just gets all tangled up inside.. 3rd one is working better

  • @FlyingPanMan
    @FlyingPanMan 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have a Mingda D2 which is a direct drive but I can't get it to print TPU with 87 shore hardness (very soft). I bought a filament drier, but that didn't help. Now I think I need a dual drive gear extruder and would like to know how very soft TPU behaves with the Biqu H2... I'd get the version 2, BTW. What shore rating did the TPU you used have?

  • @sufyansaleem9771
    @sufyansaleem9771 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Ive got one on the way, for the price and what you get its unbeatable, but I am prepared to do some work on it to get it working properly. First port of call is probably ptfe grese on the gears, and some boron nitrate paste on the heabreak and heaterblock.

    • @Neilsnonsense1
      @Neilsnonsense1  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Agreed it's a good value option and produces good results.

  • @AlexBuznik
    @AlexBuznik 10 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    I had a surprise finding there is a PTFE (?) tube inside the heatbreak, that melted and was badly damaged.

    • @Neilsnonsense1
      @Neilsnonsense1  10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Guess you must have been printing at high temperatures then?

    • @AlexBuznik
      @AlexBuznik 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@Neilsnonsense1 , not more than 240°C

    • @Neilsnonsense1
      @Neilsnonsense1  10 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Odd, that shouldn't be hot enough to degrade it!
      At least you've found the issue now.

    • @AlexBuznik
      @AlexBuznik 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@Neilsnonsense1 , probably it was due to the fact that I used another thermoprobe, that was not flush with the thermoblock, so it could run a bit more hot for quite some time. Blame on me anyways.

  • @3DJLab
    @3DJLab 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Steppermotor and extruder gear getting too close each other and binding because gear teeth profile is wrong? I can think nothing else that could cause this.