We've got some major problems...
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- In this episode I talk about a major problem I now have with my cammed 2009 Dodge Challenger.
Mods:
Comp Cams HRT Stage 2 Cam w/phase lock
Stainless Works long tube headers
Magnaflow 3" Catback exhaust
Corsa closed lid style air box
Whiteline cradle bushings
Hotchkis front and rear sway bars
432 whp, 422 lb/ft tq.
My vote would be for it to be welded but def get the opinion of whoever will actually do the job to make your decision.. some repairs are really as good as new
I think once I have it out of the car I can get an idea of how reasonable it will be to repair and if there is a possibility of me reinforcing it. Not looking forward to the disassembly part though…
With a manual car, hard launches are hard on the drivetrain. I would probably go with welding the subframe. Like you said the weld is the strongest part if it is done correctly. The problem with radials is that they have stiff sidewalls and don't absorb shock like a bias ply slick or bias ply drag tire would.
That’s definitely what I’m leaning towards!
Weld it. You can reinforce the area while your at it, and make it stronger.
Thank God you found that!
Yea, could’ve been bad! 😳
If you're not gonna weld it, check with Gforce Performance Engineering. The have a modified rear cradle, that repositions the diff to be higher in the vehicle. This takes the strain off the driveshaft & the axles. Just not certain if it requires a new diff or not, as they advertise it with a 9" conversion. You should also look at BMR's solid diff & cradle bushings. Good luck with either path you choose my friend! ✌🏼
Interesting, hadn’t heard of it! 🙏🏻
@@TrackPackRT I got their Outlaw axles, & talked to them about their modified cradle. It's a great thing they got, but I think it's a bit pricey. It's in my wish list though, along with the 9" diff conversion.
Oh man, that sucks! But, at the same time, you have a massive opportunity to really improve that perch/attachment point. Here's what I'd do, if it were mine. I'd remove the cradle and have it welded back. However, looking to improve it, I'd have the shop ALSO weld in some gusseting, like triangle stock to really secure that round section to the cradle. If you can take some "before" measurements and let the welder know how much he, or she, has to add gussets...that would be the ticket. Hell man, why not completely remake that perch with thick-walled pipe, a thick end plate (the section that sheared off) and gusset THAT. It'll never break again. And while you're at it, add gusseting to the back side of the cradle, increasing it's rigidity, too. I would NOT pass up this opportunity. When shit breaks, we drag racers ALWAYS look for the glass of lemonade. 😎😎😎
Thanks for the suggestions, that’s definitely in line with what I’m thinking. Once I pull it out I’ll have a better idea of where I can maybe stiffen it up and how easy/hard the repair will be.
Well it sucks, hopefully u fix it asap. Ur car looks great.✌️
Thank you!
Seems like a reasonable excuse to also buy yourself a new Hellcat too ;)
Haha I was looking around awhile ago, the extra mortgage sized car payment had me put the breaks on that. But damn they’re sweet! Hope you’re doing good!
That is an incredible amount of torque that beast is building up to be snapping the rear cradle mount like that! Holy Hell. Once this is sorted out, are you thinking seriously about boosting it as a future mod?
Yea no one can accuse me of not making power I guess. 😂
I’ve had boost on the forefront of my mind for awhile now…
Yeah man, I'd just weld it, maybe layer it up, but it should be plenty strong
Kind of what I’m leaning towards.
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Grab a diff brace. I need to do it as well since all th added power i have done lately in my manual 5.7
I have one! I think that’s the only thing that stopped me from snapping the diff to pieces when the axles went!
Manual trans hits hard! They break lots of parts. If you would use 17 or 18 in. Wheels, the extra sidewall would absorb some of that hit and make it easier on the parts.
I did make the switch to 17s for the track to lighten the wheels and give me even better traction. I’m still running 20s on the street though.
@@TrackPackRT ah ok, wow! On the street maybe not as bad as traction becomes limited but the drag radials hook very well! Depends how you drive on the street. I remember my 4 speed SB Nova when it was manual i changed driveshaft u joints every months, when I switched over to auto, it was easier on the ujoints
I would weld it if the break is repairable, and even beef up the area while at it. The replacement will most likely do the same.
@@robertbois89 yea the shock between shifts is so much greater with the manual. Not to mention high rpm launches seem to hit the drivetrain harder too. That’s wild you would have to tweak your drive train that often! 😳
Damm that sucks. Iv seen it happen before wheel hop puts so much abuse on the whole rear. I know you locked out the cradle and other things but it could of had hair line cracks. Things break at the weakest link. Iv bent my lower control arms on my 8 speed from wheel hop. I put all AAD suspension on last winter. Now I just snaped 1 of my axles broke a hole in the diff case and cracked the drive shaft in September. Racing sure is fun. I.70 60 ft with stock open diff. Im putting 3.09 lsd in over the winter.
To be honest I haven’t even wheel hopped since I put the whiteline cradle bushings in. But 3k launches with a manual…that’s tough on parts haha
@TrackPackRT I was saying before the cradle lock out. Yea manual is ruff also lol
Speed kills my friend. Sorry about the mishap. If you swap cradles, would there be any advantage in going with a 2015 and newer cradle? It might help mitigate some of the creeping obsolescence with the pre-2015 cars. I have a 2014 so I can feel your pain.
I put some thought in about doing just that, but the diff would then have to be changed, the driveshaft, the new axles I just installed would have to be changed. It would be really expensive with minimal upside.
@@TrackPackRTIt wouldn't be bad if you just bought a complete cradle from a stick car. The later diff is certainly stronger. The cheapest and easiest would of course be to just swap the cradle that you currently have as yours would have to be dropped anyway just to weld it. Time for some diff lockout bushings as well. I just got the BMR set for my 19, along with all the Whiteline bushings for the rear and the 25mm hollow BMR rear sway bar. While you're in there, right?
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