To make taking these injectors out a doddle, I disconnect 'em, then rotate them around in their holes with a bar & hammer - that sideways twist breaks the bond between the injector & any crud. You can then pop them out easy with a slide hammer hooked in under the lip. Far easier than all the usual faffing about trying to just pull them. Twist them first. Usually they then just pull out by hand - a doddle. Slide hammer if they don't - still a doddle. People pull like mad on them using fancy gear, often failing to get anywhere if they are a bit stuck, when a sideways twist works a thousand times better/faster/easier - Physics. Bar onto the base of the feed pipe-attachment bit where it's flat, give it a good whack, the injector rotates & Fanny is yer Aunt. She's free/. The same goes for most injectors - pulling is a pita - give 'em a twist first. Nobody does, dunno why. To test electrically, just check resistance across the pins - 0.5 to 0.6 ohms & they're ok. Anything different, chances are they're borked electrically. I then strip the injector tips & clean them/the needles in an ultrasonic cleaner with whatever "aggressive stuff" in it I can find around the workshop. The ultrasonic does a great job. Soaking the crap out of the heads injector bores with throttle cleaner (not brake cleaner) & then blowing the muck back up & out with an airline/blowgun works good too. I keep the copper washers in place with a smear of vaseline so they don't fall off when the injector is going back in & I fit the hold-downs onto the injectors as well - a shim of paper stops those falling off - trying to fit them once the injector is back down the hole is a pita - fit them first, lower the "unit" down ready to bolt. Generally, if you did have a blocked injector, the worlds supply of black muck will get shot out the exhaust shortly after you fire it back up - fear not... that happens.. Another "Handy hint" is when you have cleaned the injector tips, get a spray can of throttle body cleaner, bang the nozzle into the arze of the injector tip & give it a good squirt - you should see the injector spray pattern emerge from the tip - if any bit of the pattern is missing, it needs more cleaning - after you do a few, you can see when the pattern is right - it will be all the ickle holes banging out a mist of throttle body cleaner. :-) No fancy rigs required. As an aside, lol - long comment - if you do get the "Worlds supply of black crap!" coming out the exhaust when you fire it back up, do a manual DPF clean as well - chances are the injectors being on a go-slow have peppered the dpf with soot & junk. It's not that they weren't injecting, it's that they were dribbling & not misting - which creates a rubbish combustion & therefore loads of soot & muck. Which stuffs your dpf full rapido - so clean it. :-)
On these yokes btw - there is a tricky "anomaly" - you might come across one where 1 or 2 injectors are "Not working" - normal logic is the injectors are borked, so new injectors get ordered & fitted (that's a grand spent right there..) - and still don't work.. Then it becomes "It's a wiring fault!" and ages gets spent tracing wires - to no avail..,. more cost.. Generally, at that stage, people throw their hats at it and give up. Pretty much. In these cases - and it is common - it's not the injectors or the wiring, it's the ECU itself - if you find which pin-outs drive the injectors (it's a bank of 8 pins that are numbered as per the injector order btw - easy found) & test the pairs for continuity (there shouldn't be any) - you will find the driver pins for your "broken" injectors are running a dead-short - which means the ECU is shorted internally on them injector driver circuits. Scanning for codes will give "Injector 2 wiring short circuit" or similar - suggesting it is a wiring issue or an internal injector fault - it ain't, it's the ECU itself shorting that circuit. If you open the ECU you will see green crusties on those traces. The fix there is to get the ECU poked by "We poke ECU's" or some such - don't just condemn the injectors because chances are they're fine but aren't being driven by the computer - so replacing them/cleaning them & all that guff won't work. If I had a quid for every person who wasted a grand buying 2 new injectors for their PSA engine when it was really an ECU fault, I'd be able to pay someone else to type this for me. Plus enough left over to buy Ibiza. Not the Seat one - the Spanish island one.
I have a 308 mate got a bit soot out the back and smoke stinks as well runs great though I'm thinking one of the injectors needs a clean but scanner doesn't say which ones faulty 😅
Totally, had the same issue. Replaced the fuel filter - still the same, but at the end was faulty injector. Hickups - it can even make problems with starting the engine.
@@stefantrajkov7877 yes, especially at the starting car first 10-15 minutes car loses power or even shut off especially uphill so low gear driving was most with more throtlle
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To make taking these injectors out a doddle, I disconnect 'em, then rotate them around in their holes with a bar & hammer - that sideways twist breaks the bond between the injector & any crud. You can then pop them out easy with a slide hammer hooked in under the lip. Far easier than all the usual faffing about trying to just pull them. Twist them first. Usually they then just pull out by hand - a doddle. Slide hammer if they don't - still a doddle. People pull like mad on them using fancy gear, often failing to get anywhere if they are a bit stuck, when a sideways twist works a thousand times better/faster/easier - Physics. Bar onto the base of the feed pipe-attachment bit where it's flat, give it a good whack, the injector rotates & Fanny is yer Aunt. She's free/. The same goes for most injectors - pulling is a pita - give 'em a twist first. Nobody does, dunno why.
To test electrically, just check resistance across the pins - 0.5 to 0.6 ohms & they're ok. Anything different, chances are they're borked electrically. I then strip the injector tips & clean them/the needles in an ultrasonic cleaner with whatever "aggressive stuff" in it I can find around the workshop. The ultrasonic does a great job.
Soaking the crap out of the heads injector bores with throttle cleaner (not brake cleaner) & then blowing the muck back up & out with an airline/blowgun works good too.
I keep the copper washers in place with a smear of vaseline so they don't fall off when the injector is going back in & I fit the hold-downs onto the injectors as well - a shim of paper stops those falling off - trying to fit them once the injector is back down the hole is a pita - fit them first, lower the "unit" down ready to bolt.
Generally, if you did have a blocked injector, the worlds supply of black muck will get shot out the exhaust shortly after you fire it back up - fear not... that happens.. Another "Handy hint" is when you have cleaned the injector tips, get a spray can of throttle body cleaner, bang the nozzle into the arze of the injector tip & give it a good squirt - you should see the injector spray pattern emerge from the tip - if any bit of the pattern is missing, it needs more cleaning - after you do a few, you can see when the pattern is right - it will be all the ickle holes banging out a mist of throttle body cleaner. :-) No fancy rigs required.
As an aside, lol - long comment - if you do get the "Worlds supply of black crap!" coming out the exhaust when you fire it back up, do a manual DPF clean as well - chances are the injectors being on a go-slow have peppered the dpf with soot & junk. It's not that they weren't injecting, it's that they were dribbling & not misting - which creates a rubbish combustion & therefore loads of soot & muck. Which stuffs your dpf full rapido - so clean it. :-)
On these yokes btw - there is a tricky "anomaly" - you might come across one where 1 or 2 injectors are "Not working" - normal logic is the injectors are borked, so new injectors get ordered & fitted (that's a grand spent right there..) - and still don't work.. Then it becomes "It's a wiring fault!" and ages gets spent tracing wires - to no avail..,. more cost.. Generally, at that stage, people throw their hats at it and give up. Pretty much.
In these cases - and it is common - it's not the injectors or the wiring, it's the ECU itself - if you find which pin-outs drive the injectors (it's a bank of 8 pins that are numbered as per the injector order btw - easy found) & test the pairs for continuity (there shouldn't be any) - you will find the driver pins for your "broken" injectors are running a dead-short - which means the ECU is shorted internally on them injector driver circuits. Scanning for codes will give "Injector 2 wiring short circuit" or similar - suggesting it is a wiring issue or an internal injector fault - it ain't, it's the ECU itself shorting that circuit. If you open the ECU you will see green crusties on those traces.
The fix there is to get the ECU poked by "We poke ECU's" or some such - don't just condemn the injectors because chances are they're fine but aren't being driven by the computer - so replacing them/cleaning them & all that guff won't work. If I had a quid for every person who wasted a grand buying 2 new injectors for their PSA engine when it was really an ECU fault, I'd be able to pay someone else to type this for me. Plus enough left over to buy Ibiza. Not the Seat one - the Spanish island one.
I have a 308 mate got a bit soot out the back and smoke stinks as well runs great though I'm thinking one of the injectors needs a clean but scanner doesn't say which ones faulty 😅
What size of wrench u used??
I have exactly the same problem with the exact same injector number! Ordered an ultrasonic cleaner to deal with the cleaning.
Works well, make sure you have a dry cloth and a small bath of oil , to quickly place in when take out the the sonic cleaner, to stop flash rusting
Legend
can bad injectors be cause of losing power/hickups in driving of car or even car can shut off !?
Totally, had the same issue. Replaced the fuel filter - still the same, but at the end was faulty injector. Hickups - it can even make problems with starting the engine.
@@stefantrajkov7877 yes, especially at the starting car first 10-15 minutes car loses power or even shut off especially uphill so low gear driving was most with more throtlle