just found your channel. very good tips for a newbie like me!! looking to doing some christmas gifts and you have made it easier for me to make them look better. Thank you and best of luck in the future.
Wow, this was a great tutorial and filled in (No pun intended) the blanks on the alignment of the basketweave patterns. Question though - in watching your videos, you typically oil (Neatsfoot) the leather, but do you do that before or after tooling/stamping? I see in one instance applying it after the liner, but was wondering if there is a difference when tooling? Thanks
Thanks for asking - if you're going to tool or carve a pattern, you typically want to oil or condition your leather after the tooling is complete. This is because the oil will soften the fibers and your stamp pattern or tooling will not come out as crisp. The general rule of thumb is (in our shop anyhow): 1. use whatever pattern to cut the leather. 2. if you are going to tool, stamp or carve, do that next. Dunk your leather in water and let it case. Once the water is evenly spread through the fibers and it doesn't look "wet" but feels cool to the touch and when bent holds its shape (I always say its ready when it kinda feels like clay) its ready to tool. 3. After tooling or stamping is complete, let it dry completely (24 hours, usually) Then you would move on with the rest of construction...lining if desired, oiling, dye, stitching etc Hope that helps!
The rawhide mallet in the video is one that I've had and used for 20+ years. I've tried a few others, but always come back to that one. Nothing wrong with the bakelite mallets, they'll get the job done for sure. It comes down to personal preference (that comes with time, experience and experimenting) like with everything else. The rawhide mallet I use is only between 9 and 10 ounces and typically you will want a lighter hammer for tooling. This is because the actual act of hitting the stamp again and again is easier with a lighter hammer in that you don't have to 'pull your punches' like you might with a heavier mallet and prevent it from hitting too hard. With something lighter, its easier to hit the stamp with an even amount of force again and again, making your overall pattern look better.
We purchase straight from Wickett&Craig tannery in PA to guarantee the best hides and so we don't get stuck with "tannery run" quality from distributors. That being said, purchasing an entire hide might not be the best route for some makers. Depending on how much leather you're looking for, I would recommend 8 to 10oz panels of full grain veg tan saddle skirt that can be found online at Weaver Leather, Tandy Leather or Springfield Leather. (For example: www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/hermann-oak-veg-tan-single-shoulders-natural?variant=40909255213196 )
@@HellhoundLeatherCo Awesome, I dabble in a bit of leatherwork but it is not my main hobby. I really want to make some good holsters for cowboy mounted shooting, but I have never been able to figure out what to look for in leather. I appreciate the help, I will likely be purchasing one of your templates sometime.
Thank you for all the tips.
The best explanation of basket weave I’ve seen! Thank you very much!
Wow, thank you! Very glad to hear it helps!
just found your channel. very good tips for a newbie like me!! looking to doing some christmas gifts and you have made it easier for me to make them look better. Thank you and best of luck in the future.
Well done 👍 Super clean result 👍 Very clear explanation 👍 Thanks
Thanks for the excellent advice.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you!
It's a wonderful video.
Thank you. It looks great
Very helpful. Thanks for the videos
Good stuff.
Very well done. You do beautiful work. Thank you for sharing your techniques.
Thanks very much! I hope folks find it helpful :)
Very well done tutorial I always learn something new thank you.
Thank you! I'm so glad its helpful!
Excellent
Wow, this was a great tutorial and filled in (No pun intended) the blanks on the alignment of the basketweave patterns. Question though - in watching your videos, you typically oil (Neatsfoot) the leather, but do you do that before or after tooling/stamping? I see in one instance applying it after the liner, but was wondering if there is a difference when tooling?
Thanks
Thanks for asking - if you're going to tool or carve a pattern, you typically want to oil or condition your leather after the tooling is complete. This is because the oil will soften the fibers and your stamp pattern or tooling will not come out as crisp. The general rule of thumb is (in our shop anyhow):
1. use whatever pattern to cut the leather.
2. if you are going to tool, stamp or carve, do that next. Dunk your leather in water and let it case. Once the water is evenly spread through the fibers and it doesn't look "wet" but feels cool to the touch and when bent holds its shape (I always say its ready when it kinda feels like clay) its ready to tool.
3. After tooling or stamping is complete, let it dry completely (24 hours, usually)
Then you would move on with the rest of construction...lining if desired, oiling, dye, stitching etc
Hope that helps!
What size is your basket stamp? Looks awesome.
The basketweave stamp in this video is one that I purchased from Tandy almost 20 years ago. I think its their "X510: 0.25x0.47in
Is the rawhide mallet the one to go for, I've also been looking at a bakelite one? Also what weight do you recommend?,thankyou..
The rawhide mallet in the video is one that I've had and used for 20+ years. I've tried a few others, but always come back to that one. Nothing wrong with the bakelite mallets, they'll get the job done for sure. It comes down to personal preference (that comes with time, experience and experimenting) like with everything else. The rawhide mallet I use is only between 9 and 10 ounces and typically you will want a lighter hammer for tooling. This is because the actual act of hitting the stamp again and again is easier with a lighter hammer in that you don't have to 'pull your punches' like you might with a heavier mallet and prevent it from hitting too hard. With something lighter, its easier to hit the stamp with an even amount of force again and again, making your overall pattern look better.
Any recommendations on what leather to use for a holster like this, and where to buy it?
We purchase straight from Wickett&Craig tannery in PA to guarantee the best hides and so we don't get stuck with "tannery run" quality from distributors. That being said, purchasing an entire hide might not be the best route for some makers. Depending on how much leather you're looking for, I would recommend 8 to 10oz panels of full grain veg tan saddle skirt that can be found online at Weaver Leather, Tandy Leather or Springfield Leather. (For example:
www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/hermann-oak-veg-tan-single-shoulders-natural?variant=40909255213196 )
@@HellhoundLeatherCo Awesome, I dabble in a bit of leatherwork but it is not my main hobby. I really want to make some good holsters for cowboy mounted shooting, but I have never been able to figure out what to look for in leather. I appreciate the help, I will likely be purchasing one of your templates sometime.
Is this leather stamped dry or did you case the leather?