How to Remove and Replace the Head Gasket - Toyota 1MZ-FE 3MZ-FE Camry Highlander Sienna RX300 RX330
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- Removing and replacing the head gasket is an intimidating job because of all the disassembly that is required to get to the head gasket bolts. But on an engine stand it's all easy. Watch this video for the correct steps of removing the head gasket bolts and then putting it all back together, Includes factory specs. The procedure is basically the same for 1MZ-FE (3.0-liter) and 3MZ-FE (3.3-liter) V6. These engines are in a range of vehicles including Camry, Sienna, Highlander, RX300, RX330, and others.
Head Gasket - Left www.amazon.com...
Head Gasket - Right www.amazon.com...
Complete Head Gasket Set www.amazon.com...
Head Bolt - Complete Set www.amazon.com...
This is the link to the factory service manual.
drive.google.c...
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I love this bulletproof 1MZ-FE engine I have. You ARE prepping ME to help Do my own Head Gasket replacement which although involved, can be performed my ME. I n your video, I get to see the parts where they are before I even take mine apart. I recognize the spark plug coil pack holes so far as I moved one from cylinder 6 to cylinder 4. I replaced the coil pack myself. Was so proud of myself. Thanks for leaving a wonderful legacy and help DIY people.
Right on
I'm extremely lucky no engine damage after the TB snapped with only 40K miles, weird AISIN brand, 2005 RX330 3MZ-FE Engine. Anyway, as per your guidance, I set the engine at TDC, and the Cams line up correctly. Since I was already there I replaced the water pump, idlers, and hydraulic tensioner. When rotating them by hand the bearings were a little rough. Once the TB was installed, I crossed my fingers and was able to turn the crank two full 360-degree turns. Started up the engine and it runs smooth like butter. I appreciate your guidance.
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Hello , love how you work on this engine , I have the 1MZ-FE. I thought you always need to send it to a machine shop whenever you change the gasket
If the engine overheats, you check the deck for any warpage, and you have it machined if needed. Otherwise there is no reason to have it machined. This engine did not overheat. A nut fell down the intake into a cylinder. The engine had to be opened to remove it.
What do you think of the new video format I am trying out? Notice anything different?
@@Merryfrankster_ Miss your commentary voice , I like when you go about explaining
Luv the mizik, Luv the visual, Luv the written narration !_!
Thank you for watching and for commenting
Really interested in the cam shafts replacement and timing......thanks
Thank you for watching and for commenting. There are detailed videos for camshaft replacement and timing belt also in this series on the 1mz.
Awesomeness
Love your content. Question. Do you have to take the heads to have them grind down to redo the head gasket? Hope to hear from you. Great video.
Check the heads and the block with a straight edge. No reason to grind them down unless they need it.
Thanks Frankster, this video is fantastic.
Do you recommend new head bolts or are the originals okay to reinstall like the hex bolt?
I just order a compression test kit to work out which side it is..... or should I do both regardless?
(blew the head gasket on Australian built 2001 Avalon)
For the mz I believe that new head bolts are required. For newer engines (2gr, 2ar), the head bolts can be reused if they meet measurement spec, but even so, I don't suggest it. Head bolt sets are cheap.
Always do both sides. The other side is just a blown head gasket waiting to happen.
Frankster, while replacing the right side cam seal (exhaust cam shaft) , I gouged the inside and outside of the sealing surface (I used a screw driver to remove the seal, like an idiot). Needless to say, it leaked really bad upon reassembly. The outside surface I was going to use rtv sealant, but of course, the inside sealing surface is where the cam spins.
If i removed the camshft and "sanded" out the gouges, would that stop the leak, or will I need to find an entire new camshaft??
Thanks
No, it's done. Find a replacement. You may need a new head too.
What other parts do you recommend to replace since the heads are off? Water pump? Timing belt? Anything else?
Re-seal thermostat housing.
See my video.
Remember: ALWAYS USE OEM HEAD GASKETS
Why? Use any head gasket that you trust.
I have a question for you. My dad has an ‘01 Tacoma with the 2RZFE and he has to have the head replaced. The truck has 125k miles. The Toyota tech showed him the head and it has pitting near the number 4 cylinder, which caused the gasket to fail. My dad is going with a re-manufactured head through Toyota. Have you seen this before and what do you think would cause this. The truck is pristine along with the frame (Alabama truck) and he’s going to give it to me later this year as he’s 84 years old and wants me to enjoy the truck as much as he has…bittersweet. The head will have a one year 12k mile warranty. He has also had the plugs changed, transmission drain and fill and the oil will be changed at the dealership as well. The total out the door is 4300 dollars which I thought was fair…your thoughts on that as well. Thanks and keep up the great work.
Pitting in the head or piston is typically caused by knock aka pinging which could be because the cylinder was run lean because maybe injector was not doing its job. Hard to tell without seeing.
@@Merryfrankster_ I know it’s hard without seeing it. Thx for the reply.
2007 3.3L engine, in your experience, when the TB lets go, do you think I bent any valves given the pistons are flycut? Not sure why the TB let loose after 40k miles will all new TB components. I am hoping to just replace the TB and go, but I will inspect the cylinders first with a boroscope to look for bent valve. Thank in advance for any comments you may have for me, I am subbing your channel
Turn the crank by hand, if you have any bent valves you will know it right away. Then put a belt and tensioner on it and run it. If you have used an aftermarket belt and component kit, Gates for example, I am not at all surprised that it failed prematurely. Use Aisin, which is the OE brand.
I'm dealing with the same issue with my daughter's 2005 3.3L engine. The timing belt snapped close to 40K miles. Anyway, I had the vehicle towed to my house and I'm about to find out if there's valve damage. My guess is that the only way I'm going to find out is by installing a new TB and turning the crank a full 360 by hand. If I feel the crank stopping I will know for sure there's valve damage. At that point, I will have to remove the heads to get a new set of valves, hoping I do not have to replace the pistons.
@@robertkennedy3230 that's what I did. Verified I was at TDC, replaced the belt, turned by hand, then crossed my fingers and it worked, no issues whatsoever. I got very lucky.
Last weekend I was able to turn the crank by hand, so far so good. Then I turned the camshaft sprockets to align the marks. I'm picking up a brand-new timing belt to install, fingers are crossed, and check to see if I will be able to turn the crank by hand a full 360. If all is well I might as well replace the tensioner, idler, and water pump once again. I will never know the reason the OEM TB snapped at 40K miles. From now on, I'm going to make it a point to visually inspect the belt at every oil change.
I have a serious question, as I watch and learn I see that you took out the gears or shafts idk what they are called, So are they easy to take off and does the timing go with them or can you remove em and put them back however?
To remove the camshafts you remove the timing belt first. Then you re-install the camshafts, following the service manual, and after that, you time them with the timing belt, following the service manual. You don't do anything "however." Always follow the service manual.
1999 Avalon V6 , do u have to pull the engine to replace the rear head gasket?
It would make it a lot easier.
So wait. I think I missed something. Should I open the hood first?
Optional with the engine out of the car, you can have the hood either open OR closed while you work on the engine.
How would I know the engine is at TDC, piston one is against the firewall. The mark at the bottom crank is aligned with the notch on the engine block. I removed the spark plug of the cylinder closer to the alternator (cyl 2). I see the piston is at the top. Does this mean piston one is at the bottom? If this is the case, I should turn the crank by hand one full turn until cylinder 2 at the bottom?
something does not sound right here. With the mark on the pulley lined up with the timing indicator at 0, cylinder 1 should be at tdc, cylinder 2 should be 120 degrees off dtc, cylinder 3 is at 240, and cylinder 4 on the front bank should also be at dtc. When you turn the crank one full turn, it returns the cylinders to the exact same position.
@@Merryfrankster_ Then I am at TDC, that's what I wanted to confirm. The mark on the sprocket (bottom pulley) is perfectly aligned with the crank (there is a little mark right below the AISIN brand). At this point, it is safe to proceed to install the TB?
@@robertkennedy3230 I thought you were doing something with the timing covers on. If you are doing a timing belt job, look at my timing belt video and all will be clear. th-cam.com/video/HtohhopU3dw/w-d-xo.html
@@Merryfrankster_ I appreciate the clarification. It all makes sense now. Thanks so much.
You dont put some kind of sealer glue on the head gasket??
It is not needed on a MLS gasket. Maybe if you were using a paper gasket like in 50's chevy.
what about the cam lifter cups? No adjustment?
Usually not needed if you put them back in the order they were removed. But you can check valve clearance after reassembling the cams and make adjustments if needed.
I just blew the head gasket on my 2002 Toyota Highlander. Any chance I could get the manual?
Sure just click on the link to request it.
Why cant I get the pdf from the link
Sorry I was busy boning my beautiful gf when you requested permission to access the doc. Should be ok now.
My friends girlfriend just blew her engine (and not in a good way). I could really use access to that manual.
No problem just request access from the link.
@@Merryfrankster_ That was odd. I ran into trouble with some kind of access code required the first time but it worked this time. Thank you very much, Your awesome.
Lifetime subscriber now
Have a 2002 Es300. Is this an absolute engine out job? Or could the head be removed with the engine still in the car? Remove the engine mounts and Jack it up a little?
If you're only doing the forward facing head, aka Bank 2 or Left Bank, sure, you could do it in the car. Doing the rear facing head (Bank 1, Right Bank) would be an absolute nightmare. Just look at it. The head is tilted back toward the firewall at an angle. Even changing the valve cover on this head puts you in uncomfortable positions over the engine. I would bite the bullett and take the engine out of the car for this job.
@@Merryfrankster_ I did the rear cylinder only and yes I can confirm it's a pain in the butt I just finished this job and tried starting the car but sounds like low compression any idea if maybe I have to adjust valves or something any suggestions please
Check your timing belt again. Take off the top timing cover, line up the crankshaft pulley notch with the indicator 0 on the lower timing cover, and look closely at the notches on the backs of the camshaft pulleys - they should line up with the notches in the inside timing cover. Other than that, sorry, no other ideas. @@adolfalvarez5534