Thank you for posting a video that can easily be used as a follow-along! I just did the timing belt, water pump, cam seals on my 2007 3MZ-FE, using this video. It was my first forey into mechanical work this involved. I took my time, got all the special tools mentioned in the video and also a harmonic balancer holder so I could torque the crank bolt to 162 ft lbs. It took me 2 and a half 8 hour days to complete. When I was done I drove over a friends house to return a couple of tools when I noticed a leak. It only took me one and a half days to do it over again and replace the leaking cam seal. I was warned about placing the seals carefully but I didn't know what that meant exactly. If I ever do it again I would be sure to use genuine Toyota seals because the equivelants do not have the same dimensions. I would grease the cam shaft and the seal, I would be sure not to come out of square, not for a second, as the seal traveled down the shaft. I would stop about an inch and a half before the seal seats and use a mirror to look completely around the front and back of the seal. Once the seal begins to seat there will be no way to inspect the inner aspect. I used the special seal installation tool and still managed to get a leak. It was on the underside of the cam shaft hard to see and in the shadows. I did this job on my car because I bought it used with 90k miiles and the dealer could not confirm that it was ever done. Turns out that the belt looked like new and was made in America, so was not original. In retrospect I could have used this video to just remove the bottom cover inorder to inspect the belt. Other than the seal leak, the job went smoothly.... Except for the upper tensioner bolt. It was very difficult to get a tool in there. I wound up getting a 12 mm nut driver from Harbor Freight and belt sanding it into a shallow socket. I used a socket and wrench on the handle of the nut driver for torque and for extension. It worked great but it took me a couple of hours trying other ways first. One last thing to mention that might help. Just keep in mind that if you scratch the cam shaft or crank shaft in your efforts to remove the seal. It will be difficult to fix. I thought I might have scratched my cam shaft and was reading about the different options to repair or replace. None of the options was easy. Be super careful. I used a screw driver, a paint can opener and a thin teflon sheet that I got from my wifes chopping block collection. I was so happy to see that it was only the bent over lip of a seal that caused the leak. Well the Solara is humming along now, no leaks. I could swear it runs better now. Thank you for posting this video. I'm saying that because I saved $800 and I have more time than money. But if I had gouged one of the shafts... I would have regretted watching this video. Lol !
Thanks for sharing your successful belt replacement story. Yes, those cam seals do leak on Toyota's high mileage MZFE engines and I always replace them regardless of their condition. Also, belts do stretch a little as they age which will slightly alter the engine timing; which is why your car is running better now with the new belt.
By far the best video explaining every step to do a complete timing belt change on the 3MZ-FE engine. Got the screen of my tablet all smeared with oily fingerprints stopping and starting this video. Recently purchased a 2008 Solara convertible and plan to keep it going for a really long time. Not knowing if the belt had been changed and at 128,000 miles it was beyond time so I bought an Aisin kit plus the cam and crank seals along with the correct Toyota antifreeze. Save yourself the possible frustration of getting started and then dead in the water.... buy a high mass socket to get the crank bolt off. Just for confirmation this was a worthwhile purchase, I tried a regular impact socket and it wouldn't budge the bolt. The high mass socket made the difference. Also, that seal puller is a worthwhile investment.
Add my thanks to you for this video. I have the ‘luxury’ of doing this while the engine is out. Still, the detail you provided around the timing belt and the tensioner… btw where did you find that little pin for the tensioner?
Best vid I've seen on this engine. Not looking forward to doing the job myself, but it has to be done. After doing stuff like this you can see why so many mechanics leave the trade. Your hands get cut to pieces, even with gloves on, every day working on cars that the engineers didn't give much thought to the person repairing.
I’ve done this before, but still getting a refresher from your video... great advice on relieving slack on the belt to get it in place... that was a huge struggle the first time!
Glad it worked out for you. Surprised how people don't consider moving either the cam or crank towards each other to ease installation of the timing belt.
THANK YOU!! Just recently got a 2000 Camry with the same motor and I couldn’t find anything on how to replace the timing belt! You video helped a lot and I got it done easily!!
Just got done with my 05 Camry. I was seriously considering taking it to the shop but did it in my garage. You saved me some cash and for that I say Thank You. Your video is excellent and right on point. Good job my friend. Couldn't have done it without your video.
This video makes me feel very confident in doing this job myself! Thanks! I'll be replacing the belt, seals and water pump. I'm noticing an oil leak coming from this area. Hopefully changing the seals will help with that...
The camshaft seals are a major source of oil leakage. When you take off the rear camshaft sprocket / timing belt dust cover, you'll better see if the valve cover gaskets are leaking at the corners as well.
Thanks for your post and comment. If doing this job for the first time, yes ... it does appear to be a tedious ... which may explain why repair shops will give you big $$$'s estimates. I've done it so many times on this engine by using electric impact tools and specialty tools that I can complete the job in under 4 hours. Fortunately, it only needs to be performed every 100k miles. To support our channel, give us a thumbs up and to get notifications of new videos, please subscribe.
That's a great tip on backing off the front cam and crank a bit while installing the belt. I watched your video as a refresher course - I'm getting ready to do my second timing belt job on this motor - the dealer did the first, so the engine is getting ready to be on its 4th belt!
@@hardlymovingpro Well, 4th belt in total... 3rd belt change. I'm at 279K miles. 1st belt was late, so 3rd belt service schedule would have been 270k since Toyota recommends 90k interval on these.
@@lsh3rd Or every 7 or 8 years I believe. I had recently replaced a belt on a 2008 Suzuki Forenza with only 32K miles. There were cranks throughout the entire belt and definitely needed replacement. Manufacturer's stated service interval was 60K miles or 8 years.
HMP, Great best video and detailed instructions I have seen! unlike others watching for me this convinced me to take it to the experts like you. I did watch the whole thing because it was so entertaining and not boring watching too much talk and time taking off a simple bolt. Edited perfect and fun to watch your videos during the pandemic. Cheers!
That is such a well made video I referred back to it like 4 times, I just finished my project (water pump) and all turned out great, thanks too you! I had to call a mobile tire repair guy w\ a 3\4 impact though for main pulley bolt..
Appreciate your comment! IS430 is a little bit more involved. Need to remove the radiator to get a impact tool to remove the crank shaft pulley bolt ... camshaft seals can only be replace by removing the camshaft ... and the seals do leak.
So what you're saying is, i screwed up by buying a V6, and there's no way in heck i could change the water pump myself. Great work, though. And thanks for the vid!
Very well made video, good detail, I had a diagram for the timing Mark's when I was doing mine today but your method for linning up all the Mark's was very helpful, thank you
@@hardlymovingpro completely agreed. The only problem for me is that I live in an apartment, so I’d have to do it in a busy parking lot. Step 1 for me is: buy a house with a garage haha
Thanks for the info it's awsome. Got the sprocket tool from amozon. Got sprocket off. Most auto parts don't carry this tool. Thank you so much for making this video.
What an amazing guide. Well done! Best guide I’ve ever seen. I did my BMW 335i N54 walnut blasting, Valve cover gasket, oil filter & cooler gasket replacement myself and yet after watching you this looks very intimidating. I’m not sure I can handle this job. We have the same engine in our 07 Highlander with 134k miles and the only thing I’ve ever done for it is replace the engine oil, break pads and alternator, nothing else. This service is so overdue for it. I was planning on doing it myself but I’m now contemplating because of the amount of work and tools needed. What is the fair cost to have this done at a Toyota Dealer in comparison to a decent Indy shop?
Thanks for your kind comments! Typical dealers will charge you around $1,200 excluding the cost of the camshaft seals. You have to insist they replace it. They'll says "hey ... it's not leaking". Believe me ... the seals will not last to the next TB service interval. The independents will charge around $800 ... but you must insist they use OEM quality parts ... i.e. Aisin water pump, Mitsuboshi or Bando Timing Belt, Koyo or GMB bearings, Toyota red coolant, etc. There have been other posters reluctant to do this job but did it anyway. Some did it in a few days ... others a whole week ... they all took their time. If you follow this video to the letter, you can do it. If you need help along the way, just post your questions and I'll help you out.
Hardly Moving Productions ok well your words of in encouragement help me to reconsider doing it myself. So I have the same engine but it is inside of a Highlander. Is everything exactly the same ? Is your link to amazon for the parts for $108 does that apply to the 07 Highlander also?
Thanks for your feedback on this video! Putting together a video series on rebuilding a 2.4L aluminum engine. A lot more involved than this but doable!
Also I saw a super neat trick from the car care nut on removing that mounting bracket that sticks on the corroded alignment pin. Hit it on the underside of the top northeast corner. 3 smacks from a small carpenters hammer had it off in a jiffy
This video helped me out big time. It was concise and quick to the point. I struggled with getting the timing right.. I ended up releasing and reinstalling the tensioner 4 times. Was extremely frustrating getting the rear cam timed. A few times the rear cam snapped back approx 45 degrees while setting timing. Have you had this happen and is it something to be concerned about? I spent probbbaly 18 hours on the t belt + seals + water pump and valve cover gaskets. I attempted to hold the camshaft with a 13/16 wrench and a cheater bar but was only successful on the front cam. The rear one I ended up getting a chain wrench similar to the one you used. The rear manifold bolts were a total pain, but that's a whole another story. Was wondering if you knew the hourly time for the t belt, seals, wp and valve cover gaskets on an 05 highlander. Can't thank you enough!
Yes ... the rear cam can spring away from its timing mark. Easiest way to prevent is to position the rear one cog clockwise from the timing mark and to mount the belt on the rear cam first.
That solid socket from Lisle. It is a must buy. Even with 600 ft/lbs air impact no go on regular impact socket. Installed Lisle socket on my air impact - 5 seconds. Smoked it.
My sentiments exactly! You can even get away using a 300 lbs electric impact. The Honda 19 mm crank pulley bolt is also a rear bear. No problem with the high mass impact socket!
Excellent!! very nice done, right to the point say only what needs to be said, wasn't any fumbling around well prepared, good camera work. really hate videos that are just senseless talk that doesn't have anything to do with the video, no twenty minutes of watching someone remove a bolt then discovers that he's used the wrong wrench etc.
Exquisite demonstration made the job easier and inform me of what tools I would need to acquire to accomplish the task For my friend Took 7 stores to finally get the chain wrench it was If Vicescript style you Showed The other 6 stores only had the rubber style of strap wrench A cheap cheesy rubber thing that Might work for an oil filter
Just had my timing belt and pulleys all changed in my Lexus ls430 2001. Also replaced all spark plugs. My Lexus ls430 has 325000 miles original engine and transmission.
This has been a great tutorial, really appreciate it! I used a piece of the old belt to cushion the chain clamp but still got slight impressions on the pulley grooves from it. I assume there’s no avoiding that when using a chain clamp.
HMP, just to confirm what I think I have read in the comments, if I have a cam pulley that has jumped forward, in my case the back cam timing mark is at the two o’clock position, is it all right to move it back counter clockwise, or is it ok to move it clockwise all the way back to match up with the timing mark on the back plate?
My ryobi p262 took that bolt off in one second without a high mass socket. I was pretty damn impressed. Best purchase I’ve ever made $199 for a 2,4&6 amp hour battery charger and bag and the impact was free. Then I got the pblrc25 extended reach ratchet and a 4 ah battery for $135 paid $350 for what would have been $1400 if they said snap on and I feel they are definitely up to par with Milwaukee. Both made by tti and likely many of the same parts.
Thanks for sharing about your tool. Had a real bad experience trying to get that pulley bolt off with my Milwaukee rated at 1,200 lbs of torque. Impressive that you got it off using your Ryobi P262 using a standard impact socket. Having electric power tools does definitely make any job go faster!
Thank you so much for making this video. You are still helping real people change the timing belt successfully. This was my first timing belt job and I was a bit nervous but I spent the time studying, purchased all the tools you recommended and successfully finished over the course of two days! One question, I used a corded impact (similar to yours, rated at 300 foot pound of fastening torque) with the high mass 22 mm socket you recommend. After replacing the harmonic balancer I simply reinstalled the crank bolt with the impact gun again (no torque wrench). Should I go back again and tongue to spec at 162 foot pounds? I did the same with the cam sprocket bolts and torqued them with a 24 in breaker bar as hard as I could like you did in the video. Is this sufficient in your experience?
God this brought me back... to work. LOL i used to work at toyota and damn if i didnt do these fuckers on the 1mz and 3mz in my sleep. No idea how i got to this video but after about 30 seconds i was in the zone. Im really happy to report nothing you did made me feel like i could do it better hahaha. The one thing ive ever done differently in my days was when i ever reused a tensioner rather than use a vise i used an irwin quick grip saved a bit of time and easy (used this thing for brakes all day too. Great video, good lighting, great angles. This is where its at man good job.
Thanks! Most kits now come with a new tensioner. On the older tensioners on the 1mz, I compressed it right on the engine using those long 10mm mounting bolts.
Thanks for the video! One question though: aren't all the bolts that go into the engine block given a torque spec, even the big ones that hold the timing belt sprockets? I would think the procedure would be to hand tighten or use a ratchet to get most of the way there, and then finish off with a torque wrench to the correct spec in ft-lb or N-m.
You can use a torque wrench for those nuts and bolts but from my perspective having done so many ... not that critical. However, with cylinder head bolts, crankshaft cap bolts, camshaft cap bolts, etc., I'm very diligent with torque specs.
@@hardlymovingpro I don't see how that Toyota can be more reliable than my 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan, with 3.8L engine and over 300 000 miles, no leaks of any kind no seepages doesn't use a drop of oil, handles superb, runs and drives like new. No any repairs. Smooth quiet . Exceptionally low maintenance, like brakes tires spark plugs, belt, not even a starter or alternator or water pump has ever been changes. You people are constantly repairing these Toyota engines and are telling me they are reliable. Toyota's are not bad but they are over glorified and high maintenance and they don't even give you room to work under the hood. I have ONE serpentine belt with one automatic tensioner compare that with Toyota.
@@hardlymovingpro Even if that happens some day motor mount is no big deal. Reliability and longevity start with quality product and good maintenance. I do all my work on my vehicles and again have to tell you, you are highly skilled and professional technician. Thank you for taking the time to shoot your videos. How the car makers build their vehicles we have no control. Some things are simple and accessible others make our lives hell. I am NOT bias towards brands I make my choice based on models and not so much on brands.
Thanks so much for this video. It was intelligent and very well versed. The part of offsetting the sprockets to ease belt installation was perhaps the most helpful of all.
Great video. I'm about to do a timing belt on a 3VZFE. The Gates brand belt doesn't have any marks on it. I'm nervous. Helpful to see your video. Wish I had your toolbox. Thanks
You can make your own marks by making marks on the old belt before you take it off then transferring it to the new belt. Watch my Acura TL timing belt job.
Great video. Been a while since I was elbow deep under the hood of a car. I referred to your video through the process on my sons car. I have noticed some other guys apply locktite on the tensioner bolts, but I did not. Didn’t seem like you did either. Any issues from past jobs if you didn’t use locktite? Also, I used a chain wrench to hold the cam pulleys in place. I ended up putting a few small dents on some of the cogs. I cleaned them up pretty well with emery cloth. Have you experienced anything like that using that tool on the pulleys? Thanks again for a well done video.
Thanks. Don't think the manufacturer used locktite but rather RTV. Believe the bolt hole passes through a coolant channel behind the water pump. Nothing to worry about, IMHO. Haven't had customer comebacks due to coolant leakage.
Hello, first of all thank you for putting the video. Very helpful. I see that you did the alignment first before removing the old belt. Is that necessary. With my old belt in place my pulleys do not align. Aligning one makes the other offset. Can I align all pulleys after removing my old belt and later put a new belt once everything is aligned.
Yes. If you can't get perfect alignment before removing the belt, that usually indicates the previous belt replacement was done incorrectly. So remove the belt, align the pulleys and proceed to install the new belt. Good luck!
The clarity in this video is legendary. Too bad Toyota made these cars unnecessarily hard to work on. The J Series in the Honda is much easier. I'll never own one of these, but I don't mind getting paid to work on them lol.
Thank you for this video, and especially all the links for the tools and parts. Im preparing to do this job. In your opinion, are genuine Toyota parts any better than the Aisin kit, or would I be wasting my money? Are the parts EXACTLY the same?
Thanks! Wasting money and parts are exactly the same. Toyota, like other manufacturers, outsource these type of parts to third party vendors which they have a long term relationship. Breakdown: Water Pump - Aisin Timing Belt - Mitsuboshi or Bando Belt Tensioner - Aisin or NTN Belt Pulleys - Koyo (GMB not OEM but just as good)
@@hardlymovingpro I run a car charity and work on all kinds of cars that I don't know anything about. Window regulator on a Saturn? TH-cam Baby! How hard is it to do a Toyota V6 cam belt? There it is! Stay Safe and Thanks again.
Labor time for me is 5 to 6 hours (but I have prior repeat knowledge where I don't have to think much). Parts vary between $200 - $400. Labor can be between $80 - $140 hour.
Hi HMP, i just attempted this job on same engine. Apparently the shop that did it at 123k miles stripped the wp studs and extremely over tightened to crank bolt. They used a Continental kit which wp, leaked early , idler squeaks, and it had a paper gasket. 450ft# electric impact with inertia socket wouldn't bud it. I had to buy a 15 inch long extension to get it outside the wheel well and used a 1/2 inch 24 inch breaker bar with jack 2ft jack handle cheater bar and a Jack stand to keep it all level. Finally got that bolt out. I bought the Aisin kit. Somehow when i removed the upper idler bolt, it wouldn't bottom out or get tight on reinstall. Its stripped and the hole in the engine block appears stripped. Not sure how to go about fixing this issue. Any suggestions, are appreciated in advance. Awesome video and instructions!! Thank you
Sorry to learn of your bad experience with the last guy who worked on your car. Only thing I recommend with the stripped threads for the idler bolt is to drill out the threads in the block and tap in new threads that will accept a time sert or heli coil fitting. The inner threads of the sert will match the idler bolt and the out thread will match what's been tapped. Here is an example of a time sert kit: amzn.to/49QBXLF Here is a video explaining how serts work: th-cam.com/video/9ic7H2qe73I/w-d-xo.htmlsi=okananaqDkw02JEX
Sorry to bother, I have one more question. Doing some research I found that stripped timing idler bolt (90105-10191) screws into bracket (13584) I don't see how to replace the bracket. Would you know how to replace the bracket? Thank you
@hardlymovingpro I looked at the time sert website, they want $524 for the kit I need. The bracket is only 43$ at Toyota. I did just look at the bracket in the car, its not easy to get to, I would have to take the timing back plate and cam gears off. Not worth it. A co worker suggested I get a new bolt and thread chaser, to restore the threads. Heli coils are another option,but I hear they may not be strong enough.
The 3.0 is the 1MZ-FE engine and uses a different timing belt tensioner. The 3.3 (this video) is the 3MZ-FE. You should refer to my Lexus ES300 video just for the removal and installation of the belt tensioner. Otherwise, the two videos are vertually identical. Here's the link to the ES300 video work on the 1MZ-FE: th-cam.com/video/KkjgBVxBaeU/w-d-xo.html
thanks for the good video, my friend press the gas pedal when he start the car very cold in the morning, the camshaft broke, the sprocket fell off and even break the timing belt cover, does valves are damaged and the engine is gone? does change the camshaft and timing belt will bring the car alive? what do you suggest to do ?
Anyway you look at it, the engine will have to be pulled to repair it or replace it with a donor engine from the salvage yard. To repair it, would know the work effort until you start tearing the engine apart. Better off getting donor engine ... IMHO.
Thanks ... took me around 3.5 hrs real time. The 1MZ is easier in that I don't need to compress the tensioner pin ... the pin gets compressed when I tighten the mounting bolts simultaneously ... watch my ES300 Timing belt replacement and you'll see what I mean.
Thank you for posting a video that can easily be used as a follow-along! I just did the timing belt, water pump, cam seals on my 2007 3MZ-FE, using this video. It was my first forey into mechanical work this involved. I took my time, got all the special tools mentioned in the video and also a harmonic balancer holder so I could torque the crank bolt to 162 ft lbs.
It took me 2 and a half 8 hour days to complete. When I was done I drove over a friends house to return a couple of tools when I noticed a leak.
It only took me one and a half days to do it over again and replace the leaking cam seal.
I was warned about placing the seals carefully but I didn't know what that meant exactly. If I ever do it again I would be sure to use genuine Toyota seals because the equivelants do not have the same dimensions. I would grease the cam shaft and the seal, I would be sure not to come out of square, not for a second, as the seal traveled down the shaft. I would stop about an inch and a half before the seal seats and use a mirror to look completely around the front and back of the seal. Once the seal begins to seat there will be no way to inspect the inner aspect. I used the special seal installation tool and still managed to get a leak. It was on the underside of the cam shaft hard to see and in the shadows.
I did this job on my car because I bought it used with 90k miiles and the dealer could not confirm that it was ever done. Turns out that the belt looked like new and was made in America, so was not original. In retrospect I could have used this video to just remove the bottom cover inorder to inspect the belt.
Other than the seal leak, the job went smoothly.... Except for the upper tensioner bolt. It was very difficult to get a tool in there. I wound up getting a 12 mm nut driver from Harbor Freight and belt sanding it into a shallow socket. I used a socket and wrench on the handle of the nut driver for torque and for extension. It worked great but it took me a couple of hours trying other ways first.
One last thing to mention that might help. Just keep in mind that if you scratch the cam shaft or crank shaft in your efforts to remove the seal. It will be difficult to fix. I thought I might have scratched my cam shaft and was reading about the different options to repair or replace. None of the options was easy. Be super careful. I used a screw driver, a paint can opener and a thin teflon sheet that I got from my wifes chopping block collection. I was so happy to see that it was only the bent over lip of a seal that caused the leak.
Well the Solara is humming along now, no leaks. I could swear it runs better now. Thank you for posting this video. I'm saying that because I saved $800 and I have more time than money. But if I had gouged one of the shafts... I would have regretted watching this video. Lol !
Thanks for sharing your successful belt replacement story. Yes, those cam seals do leak on Toyota's high mileage MZFE engines and I always replace them regardless of their condition. Also, belts do stretch a little as they age which will slightly alter the engine timing; which is why your car is running better now with the new belt.
By far the best video explaining every step to do a complete timing belt change on the 3MZ-FE engine. Got the screen of my tablet all smeared with oily fingerprints stopping and starting this video. Recently purchased a 2008 Solara convertible and plan to keep it going for a really long time. Not knowing if the belt had been changed and at 128,000 miles it was beyond time so I bought an Aisin kit plus the cam and crank seals along with the correct Toyota antifreeze. Save yourself the possible frustration of getting started and then dead in the water.... buy a high mass socket to get the crank bolt off. Just for confirmation this was a worthwhile purchase, I tried a regular impact socket and it wouldn't budge the bolt. The high mass socket made the difference. Also, that seal puller is a worthwhile investment.
Good story and thanks for sharing!
Almost 2 years later and still helping people with this video. Excellent work both on the car and the video editing!
Much appreciated!
@@hardlymovingpro
Yes, thank you!! Very helpful 👍
Add my thanks to you for this video. I have the ‘luxury’ of doing this while the engine is out. Still, the detail you provided around the timing belt and the tensioner… btw where did you find that little pin for the tensioner?
Best vid I've seen on this engine. Not looking forward to doing the job myself, but it has to be done. After doing stuff like this you can see why so many mechanics leave the trade. Your hands get cut to pieces, even with gloves on, every day working on cars that the engineers didn't give much thought to the person repairing.
You're right! It's a tough occupation to make a living with so many makes and models out there!
I’ve done this before, but still getting a refresher from your video... great advice on relieving slack on the belt to get it in place... that was a huge struggle the first time!
Glad it worked out for you. Surprised how people don't consider moving either the cam or crank towards each other to ease installation of the timing belt.
THANK YOU!! Just recently got a 2000 Camry with the same motor and I couldn’t find anything on how to replace the timing belt! You video helped a lot and I got it done easily!!
Glad it helped!
BEST guide I've seen so far. Great JOB
Glad you liked it!
Exquisite clarity, what great camera work.
Thanks ... appreciate your comment.
Just got done with my 05 Camry. I was seriously considering taking it to the shop but did it in my garage. You saved me some cash and for that I say Thank You. Your video is excellent and right on point. Good job my friend. Couldn't have done it without your video.
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
This is how all "how to" videos should be..Great work!
Really appreciate your comment and thanks for your support!
YES!!!! you are correct I agree!!
Incredible. I feel like Luke being taught by Yoda. Thank you for all these master class methods!
You bet!
This video makes me feel very confident in doing this job myself! Thanks! I'll be replacing the belt, seals and water pump. I'm noticing an oil leak coming from this area. Hopefully changing the seals will help with that...
The camshaft seals are a major source of oil leakage. When you take off the rear camshaft sprocket / timing belt dust cover, you'll better see if the valve cover gaskets are leaking at the corners as well.
Great video. The 22mm high mass socket made all the difference on the harmonic balancer bolt. I almost gave up before that.
Use to get worked up wondering if my impact driver could torque off the balancer bolt. Not anymore with that high mass socket!
WONDERFUL!!! Just did everything and your video is clear and very to the point! This is what makes youtube wonderful!
Thanks for your post and glad it worked out for you!
After watching your whole video, everything else I've seen to fix my Camry seems to be simpler. This is some tedious job.
Well done.
Thanks for your post and comment. If doing this job for the first time, yes ... it does appear to be a tedious ... which may explain why repair shops will give you big $$$'s estimates. I've done it so many times on this engine by using electric impact tools and specialty tools that I can complete the job in under 4 hours. Fortunately, it only needs to be performed every 100k miles.
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That's a great tip on backing off the front cam and crank a bit while installing the belt. I watched your video as a refresher course - I'm getting ready to do my second timing belt job on this motor - the dealer did the first, so the engine is getting ready to be on its 4th belt!
4th belt change? ... wow! You must have over 300k miles on your car? Thanks for your comment and support!
@@hardlymovingpro Well, 4th belt in total... 3rd belt change. I'm at 279K miles. 1st belt was late, so 3rd belt service schedule would have been 270k since Toyota recommends 90k interval on these.
@@lsh3rd Or every 7 or 8 years I believe. I had recently replaced a belt on a 2008 Suzuki Forenza with only 32K miles. There were cranks throughout the entire belt and definitely needed replacement. Manufacturer's stated service interval was 60K miles or 8 years.
Great job on showing in detail how to put the timing belt on. I was having trouble with it. Wish I could give 1000 thumbs up.
Thanks!
Thanks a bunch. I have a 2006 Solara and your instructions worked perfectly. I would not have attempted it with out this video.
Glad it helped!
One of the best timing belt videos I've seen
Thanks ... Glad you like it!
HMP, Great best video and detailed instructions I have seen! unlike others watching for me this convinced me to take it to the experts like you. I did watch the whole thing because it was so entertaining and not boring watching too much talk and time taking off a simple bolt. Edited perfect and fun to watch your videos during the pandemic. Cheers!
Awesome, thank you! Glad you liked it!
Very well shot, explained, and executed. I'm a fan! Learned a lot.
Outstanding video, one of the best how to video's I've seen. Love the way you used pointers to point out specific things that need to be looked at.
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for sharing!
This is by far the best video ever , changing your timing belt . Can’t thank you enough !
Glad it helped and thanks for your post!
This is the BEST video on how to replace the RX 330's timing belt and water pump! Thank you kindly! I am a subscriber!
Glad you found the video useful!
BTW ... Just did a video on the hybrid version of the RX with the same engine. Here's the link: th-cam.com/video/ceAVbcE1C00/w-d-xo.html
That is such a well made video I referred back to it like 4 times, I just finished my project (water pump) and all turned out great, thanks too you! I had to call a mobile tire repair guy w\ a 3\4 impact though for main pulley bolt..
Hey glad it worked out for you! That pulley bolt can be a show stopper. Only thing that works to get it off is a high mass impact socket.
Great work I love how you take the slack out of the belt that's a good thing to know
Thanks 👍
Great video! The 3MZ-FE is a fantastic engine and very reliable
Thanks and you're right about the MZ-FE!
Wow what a professional mechanic he made it look so easy. I need made done on my lexus ls430 2001.
Appreciate your comment! IS430 is a little bit more involved. Need to remove the radiator to get a impact tool to remove the crank shaft pulley bolt ... camshaft seals can only be replace by removing the camshaft ... and the seals do leak.
So what you're saying is, i screwed up by buying a V6, and there's no way in heck i could change the water pump myself. Great work, though. And thanks for the vid!
It takes me around the same amount of time replacing a timing belt on a 4 cylinder Toyota than a 6 cylinder ... even more time on a Honda Civic.
Finally a good mechanic and a GOOD operator..
You bet!
This is how a How To video should be done and it exactly the same engine, Thank so much! GOD Bless.
Thanks!
Very well made video, good detail, I had a diagram for the timing Mark's when I was doing mine today but your method for linning up all the Mark's was very helpful, thank you
Nice work and glad the video helped!
I feel like I should be the only person working on my car, but 5 minutes into this video I'd already accepted the fact that its going to the shop lol
With the right tools and patience, it can be done.
@@hardlymovingpro completely agreed. The only problem for me is that I live in an apartment, so I’d have to do it in a busy parking lot.
Step 1 for me is: buy a house with a garage haha
Go to a friend's house with a garage, vacant parking lot on the weekends, etc.
You have to really enjoy this kind of work ..
Thanks for the info it's awsome. Got the sprocket tool from amozon. Got sprocket off. Most auto parts don't carry this tool. Thank you so much for making this video.
Good job and congratulations on getting the sprocket off! My pleasure making the video for guys like you who appreciate it!
Such precision work! Phenominal job with the step by step detail and instructions!
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
You make it look easy. Great tips and advice too! Well done!
Thank you! Cheers!
Nothing but admiration for your skill. This explains all !
Thanks and appreciate your post!
So much work! I have an appreciation for auto technician MORE than ever.
No too bad after you've done it a few times with the right tools.
I just wanted to replace the bottom pulley.. I couldn’t stop watching though. You’re a beast.
Thanks!
Listening to you while pulling those cam seals reminded me that I forgot to pick up a plunger at the Home Depot yesterday. Thanx !
Realize I grunt a lot.
What an amazing guide. Well done! Best guide I’ve ever seen. I did my BMW 335i N54 walnut blasting, Valve cover gasket, oil filter & cooler gasket replacement myself and yet after watching you this looks very intimidating. I’m not sure I can handle this job. We have the same engine in our 07 Highlander with 134k miles and the only thing I’ve ever done for it is replace the engine oil, break pads and alternator, nothing else. This service is so overdue for it. I was planning on doing it myself but I’m now contemplating because of the amount of work and tools needed. What is the fair cost to have this done at a Toyota Dealer in comparison to a decent Indy shop?
Thanks for your kind comments! Typical dealers will charge you around $1,200 excluding the cost of the camshaft seals. You have to insist they replace it. They'll says "hey ... it's not leaking". Believe me ... the seals will not last to the next TB service interval. The independents will charge around $800 ... but you must insist they use OEM quality parts ... i.e. Aisin water pump, Mitsuboshi or Bando Timing Belt, Koyo or GMB bearings, Toyota red coolant, etc. There have been other posters reluctant to do this job but did it anyway. Some did it in a few days ... others a whole week ... they all took their time. If you follow this video to the letter, you can do it. If you need help along the way, just post your questions and I'll help you out.
Hardly Moving Productions ok well your words of in encouragement help me to reconsider doing it myself.
So I have the same engine but it is inside of a Highlander. Is everything exactly the same ?
Is your link to amazon for the parts for $108 does that apply to the 07 Highlander also?
Yes but you'll need a step stool since the car sits higher off the ground ... unless you're over 6' 3" tall.
BEST 3.3 tutorial on youtube ! Now ........to amazon .
Thanks!
شغل مرتب وجميل جدآ والعده مكتمله شكرآ على مجهوداتك الرائعه ❤
شكرا لانتقاداتك!
Best video step by step precision replacement & reinstalled, fantastic clear camera work best video on utube ......
Wow, thanks!
Great work. Most shops charge over 1k to do this. Not many good vids such as this video for this engine.
One customer told me that his 2 local Toyota dealers quoted $1800
Subscribed, best DIY vid so far! you should include 1mzfe in the title since its a more common engine with the same procedure.
Thanks for your comment. I do have a 1mzfe timing belt video but it's on the Lexus ES300.
Thank you for the tutorial, the one tooth offset is a great trick to get belt in position! Thank you !
Glad it was helpful and thanks for sharing!
It is amazing how much work goes into this like taking it all off is a huge job but holy shit putting it all back together is impressive.
Thanks for your feedback on this video! Putting together a video series on rebuilding a 2.4L aluminum engine. A lot more involved than this but doable!
Best timing belt change I've ever seen. I wish you could do mine :(
If you're around the Memphis area.
Also I saw a super neat trick from the car care nut on removing that mounting bracket that sticks on the corroded alignment pin. Hit it on the underside of the top northeast corner. 3 smacks from a small carpenters hammer had it off in a jiffy
Good to know and thanks for sharing!
Excellent video. Straight to my saved favs for future reference when the time comes for me to do this. Thanks for posting!
Good luck when you're ready!
Thanks for the video. Best I've seen on this procedure.
My pleasure and more videos to come!
Superb video....fast enough to get the point with minimal waste of time. Excellent tips!
Glad you liked it!
I concur Stewart Harrison! Best Video yet. Very thorough
Thanks for your comment and support!
This video helped me out big time. It was concise and quick to the point. I struggled with getting the timing right.. I ended up releasing and reinstalling the tensioner 4 times. Was extremely frustrating getting the rear cam timed.
A few times the rear cam snapped back approx 45 degrees while setting timing. Have you had this happen and is it something to be concerned about?
I spent probbbaly 18 hours on the t belt + seals + water pump and valve cover gaskets. I attempted to hold the camshaft with a 13/16 wrench and a cheater bar but was only successful on the front cam. The rear one I ended up getting a chain wrench similar to the one you used. The rear manifold bolts were a total pain, but that's a whole another story.
Was wondering if you knew the hourly time for the t belt, seals, wp and valve cover gaskets on an 05 highlander.
Can't thank you enough!
Yes ... the rear cam can spring away from its timing mark. Easiest way to prevent is to position the rear one cog clockwise from the timing mark and to mount the belt on the rear cam first.
That solid socket from Lisle. It is a must buy. Even with 600 ft/lbs air impact no go on regular impact socket. Installed Lisle socket on my air impact - 5 seconds. Smoked it.
My sentiments exactly! You can even get away using a 300 lbs electric impact. The Honda 19 mm crank pulley bolt is also a rear bear. No problem with the high mass impact socket!
i did this job in the dead of winter, wish i had this video as reference when i did it!
At least you got the job done!
Impeccable camera work. Clear as a bell. Thank you.
Thanks for your post and comment!
It's a Trac Phone
Excellent!! very nice done, right to the point say only what needs to be said, wasn't any fumbling around well prepared, good camera work. really hate videos that are just senseless talk that doesn't have anything to do with the video, no twenty minutes of watching someone remove a bolt then discovers that he's used the wrong wrench etc.
Thanks for your post and found the video worth watching!
Amazing video! Great work on the video itself and the workmanship on the repair!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Perfect camera work!
Exquisite demonstration made the job easier and inform me of what tools I would need to acquire to accomplish the task For my friend
Took 7 stores to finally get the chain wrench it was If Vicescript style you Showed The other 6 stores only had the rubber style of strap wrench A cheap cheesy rubber thing that Might work for an oil filter
Good for you that you did it yourself! The big chain strap wrench are commonly used by plumbers.
Great video up to the point of reusing timing belt tensioner. Everyone get a new tensioner not worth the risk.good vid
Very true but I've been noticing that Honda's V6 tensioners tend to leak and loosen up.
Just had my timing belt and pulleys all changed in my Lexus ls430 2001. Also replaced all spark plugs. My Lexus ls430 has 325000 miles original engine and transmission.
The LS engine must be the best V8 in the world!
This has been a great tutorial, really appreciate it! I used a piece of the old belt to cushion the chain clamp but still got slight impressions on the pulley grooves from it. I assume there’s no avoiding that when using a chain clamp.
Thanks! The impressions won't hurt the new belt.
HMP, just to confirm what I think I have read in the comments, if I have a cam pulley that has jumped forward, in my case the back cam timing mark is at the two o’clock position, is it all right to move it back counter clockwise, or is it ok to move it clockwise all the way back to match up with the timing mark on the back plate?
Yes. Move it back counter clockwise. Do not do full rotation.
My ryobi p262 took that bolt off in one second without a high mass socket. I was pretty damn impressed. Best purchase I’ve ever made $199 for a 2,4&6 amp hour battery charger and bag and the impact was free. Then I got the pblrc25 extended reach ratchet and a 4 ah battery for $135 paid $350 for what would have been $1400 if they said snap on and I feel they are definitely up to par with Milwaukee. Both made by tti and likely many of the same parts.
Thanks for sharing about your tool. Had a real bad experience trying to get that pulley bolt off with my Milwaukee rated at 1,200 lbs of torque. Impressive that you got it off using your Ryobi P262 using a standard impact socket. Having electric power tools does definitely make any job go faster!
Thank you so much for making this video. You are still helping real people change the timing belt successfully. This was my first timing belt job and I was a bit nervous but I spent the time studying, purchased all the tools you recommended and successfully finished over the course of two days!
One question, I used a corded impact (similar to yours, rated at 300 foot pound of fastening torque) with the high mass 22 mm socket you recommend. After replacing the harmonic balancer I simply reinstalled the crank bolt with the impact gun again (no torque wrench). Should I go back again and tongue to spec at 162 foot pounds? I did the same with the cam sprocket bolts and torqued them with a 24 in breaker bar as hard as I could like you did in the video. Is this sufficient in your experience?
Thanks! Torquing the crank bolt with the inpact gun is fine. Using the 24" braker bar for the cam sprocket bolts should be fine as well.
Great video... Makes me feel a lot better about paying someone else to do it for 900 bucks (includes parts and labor).
Thanks! FYI - Around 6 hrs of labor.
Damn good job with the thoroughness, expertise, and awesome videoing! My only question is why the tensioner cylinder wasn't replaced as well?
Thanks for your comment! On this engine I've never experienced one that failed. Maybe in the future I'll do it on engines with over 200k miles.
God this brought me back... to work. LOL i used to work at toyota and damn if i didnt do these fuckers on the 1mz and 3mz in my sleep. No idea how i got to this video but after about 30 seconds i was in the zone. Im really happy to report nothing you did made me feel like i could do it better hahaha. The one thing ive ever done differently in my days was when i ever reused a tensioner rather than use a vise i used an irwin quick grip saved a bit of time and easy (used this thing for brakes all day too. Great video, good lighting, great angles. This is where its at man good job.
Thanks! Most kits now come with a new tensioner. On the older tensioners on the 1mz, I compressed it right on the engine using those long 10mm mounting bolts.
Thanks for the video! One question though: aren't all the bolts that go into the engine block given a torque spec, even the big ones that hold the timing belt sprockets? I would think the procedure would be to hand tighten or use a ratchet to get most of the way there, and then finish off with a torque wrench to the correct spec in ft-lb or N-m.
You can use a torque wrench for those nuts and bolts but from my perspective having done so many ... not that critical. However, with cylinder head bolts, crankshaft cap bolts, camshaft cap bolts, etc., I'm very diligent with torque specs.
Very nice clean job. I like that camshaft tool you use.
Thanks! Here another video I made on seal removal tools: th-cam.com/video/KUSIZs2b4Ck/w-d-xo.html
Your editing is sooo good.
Thanks!
Thank you for putting this together
You bet!
This video answered all of my questions.
Thanks for sharing!
Great work!!! Everything is great.
Thanks!
This was the best video I could find for this .. thank you... this was very helpfull
Glad it helped!
Thanks,good video.I just bought 2006 3.0 liters Camry.
Good car and engine
I didn't understand what is the advantage of driving a Toyota? Great video by the way thanks.
High dependability, reliability and longevity. Resale value unusually high.
@@hardlymovingpro I don't see how that Toyota can be more reliable than my 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan, with 3.8L engine and over 300 000 miles, no leaks of any kind no seepages doesn't use a drop of oil, handles superb, runs and drives like new. No any repairs. Smooth quiet . Exceptionally low maintenance, like brakes tires spark plugs, belt, not even a starter or alternator or water pump has ever been changes. You people are constantly repairing these Toyota engines and are telling me they are reliable. Toyota's are not bad but they are over glorified and high maintenance and they don't even give you room to work under the hood. I have ONE serpentine belt with one automatic tensioner compare that with Toyota.
Good for you! You're fortunate. Caravans are notorious for front motor mount failures.
@@hardlymovingpro Even if that happens some day motor mount is no big deal. Reliability and longevity start with quality product and good maintenance. I do all my work on my vehicles and again have to tell you, you are highly skilled and professional technician. Thank you for taking the time to shoot your videos. How the car makers build their vehicles we have no control. Some things are simple and accessible others make our lives hell. I am NOT bias towards brands I make my choice based on models and not so much on brands.
Thanks so much for this video. It was intelligent and very well versed. The part of offsetting the sprockets to ease belt installation was perhaps the most helpful of all.
Thanks for your post and great news that you did it yourself!
Great video. I'm about to do a timing belt on a 3VZFE. The Gates brand belt doesn't have any marks on it. I'm nervous. Helpful to see your video. Wish I had your toolbox. Thanks
You can make your own marks by making marks on the old belt before you take it off then transferring it to the new belt. Watch my Acura TL timing belt job.
Great video. Been a while since I was elbow deep under the hood of a car. I referred to your video through the process on my sons car. I have noticed some other guys apply locktite on the tensioner bolts, but I did not. Didn’t seem like you did either. Any issues from past jobs if you didn’t use locktite? Also, I used a chain wrench to hold the cam pulleys in place. I ended up putting a few small dents on some of the cogs. I cleaned them up pretty well with emery cloth. Have you experienced anything like that using that tool on the pulleys? Thanks again for a well done video.
Thanks. Don't think the manufacturer used locktite but rather RTV. Believe the bolt hole passes through a coolant channel behind the water pump. Nothing to worry about, IMHO. Haven't had customer comebacks due to coolant leakage.
Small dents or indentations on the cam pulleys is not a problem. Sharp protrusions on the other hand could wear on the belt.
Hello, first of all thank you for putting the video. Very helpful. I see that you did the alignment first before removing the old belt. Is that necessary. With my old belt in place my pulleys do not align. Aligning one makes the other offset. Can I align all pulleys after removing my old belt and later put a new belt once everything is aligned.
Yes. If you can't get perfect alignment before removing the belt, that usually indicates the previous belt replacement was done incorrectly. So remove the belt, align the pulleys and proceed to install the new belt. Good luck!
@@hardlymovingpro thank you so much. Stay blessed.
You bet!
Great video and mechanic works.
Thanks ... appreciate your critique!
Great great video. Wish you were in SoCal. Definitely shows you know what you’re doing. Thanks
I appreciate that!
Thanks you make clear about the mark for timing belt
Glad it helped
Thanks bro just finished my 07 highlander.
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
The clarity in this video is legendary. Too bad Toyota made these cars unnecessarily hard to work on. The J Series in the Honda is much easier. I'll never own one of these, but I don't mind getting paid to work on them lol.
I hear you!
Great video bruh, step by step like it alot great work
Thanks for the visit!
Genius to speed up certain parts of the video
Glad you liked it!
Thank you for this video, and especially all the links for the tools and parts. Im preparing to do this job. In your opinion, are genuine Toyota parts any better than the Aisin kit, or would I be wasting my money? Are the parts EXACTLY the same?
Thanks! Wasting money and parts are exactly the same. Toyota, like other manufacturers, outsource these type of parts to third party vendors which they have a long term relationship.
Breakdown:
Water Pump - Aisin
Timing Belt - Mitsuboshi or Bando
Belt Tensioner - Aisin or NTN
Belt Pulleys - Koyo (GMB not OEM but just as good)
The best I’ve seen
Thanks!
Excellent!!
Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro I run a car charity and work on all kinds of cars that I don't know anything about. Window regulator on a Saturn? TH-cam Baby! How hard is it to do a Toyota V6 cam belt? There it is! Stay Safe and Thanks again.
I love the quality on the video, How much is this labor and parts cost now days ?
Labor time for me is 5 to 6 hours (but I have prior repeat knowledge where I don't have to think much). Parts vary between $200 - $400. Labor can be between $80 - $140 hour.
thanks @@hardlymovingpro
best of the best ...can't thank you enough 👍
Glad you liked it and thanks for your support 👌!
Hi HMP, i just attempted this job on same engine. Apparently the shop that did it at 123k miles stripped the wp studs and extremely over tightened to crank bolt. They used a Continental kit which wp, leaked early , idler squeaks, and it had a paper gasket. 450ft# electric impact with inertia socket wouldn't bud it. I had to buy a 15 inch long extension to get it outside the wheel well and used a 1/2 inch 24 inch breaker bar with jack 2ft jack handle cheater bar and a Jack stand to keep it all level. Finally got that bolt out. I bought the Aisin kit. Somehow when i removed the upper idler bolt, it wouldn't bottom out or get tight on reinstall. Its stripped and the hole in the engine block appears stripped. Not sure how to go about fixing this issue. Any suggestions, are appreciated in advance. Awesome video and instructions!! Thank you
Sorry to learn of your bad experience with the last guy who worked on your car. Only thing I recommend with the stripped threads for the idler bolt is to drill out the threads in the block and tap in new threads that will accept a time sert or heli coil fitting. The inner threads of the sert will match the idler bolt and the out thread will match what's been tapped. Here is an example of a time sert kit: amzn.to/49QBXLF Here is a video explaining how serts work: th-cam.com/video/9ic7H2qe73I/w-d-xo.htmlsi=okananaqDkw02JEX
@@hardlymovingpro Awesome, thanks for your expert advice. I can calm down now as I thought I was screwed! We appreciate you!
Sorry to bother, I have one more question. Doing some research I found that stripped timing idler bolt (90105-10191) screws into bracket (13584) I don't see how to replace the bracket. Would you know how to replace the bracket? Thank you
@@CJL2022 don't see why you can't install a sert into the bracket. Or Can you place a nut behind it?
@hardlymovingpro I looked at the time sert website, they want $524 for the kit I need. The bracket is only 43$ at Toyota. I did just look at the bracket in the car, its not easy to get to, I would have to take the timing back plate and cam gears off. Not worth it. A co worker suggested I get a new bolt and thread chaser, to restore the threads. Heli coils are another option,but I hear they may not be strong enough.
Is this repair a close match for a 2002 Camry Solara 3.0 engine?
Very nice work on the video.
The 3.0 is the 1MZ-FE engine and uses a different timing belt tensioner. The 3.3 (this video) is the 3MZ-FE. You should refer to my Lexus ES300 video just for the removal and installation of the belt tensioner. Otherwise, the two videos are vertually identical. Here's the link to the ES300 video work on the 1MZ-FE: th-cam.com/video/KkjgBVxBaeU/w-d-xo.html
thanks for the good video, my friend press the gas pedal when he start the car very cold in the morning, the camshaft broke, the sprocket fell off and even break the timing belt cover, does valves are damaged and the engine is gone? does change the camshaft and timing belt will bring the car alive? what do you suggest to do ?
Anyway you look at it, the engine will have to be pulled to repair it or replace it with a donor engine from the salvage yard. To repair it, would know the work effort until you start tearing the engine apart. Better off getting donor engine ... IMHO.
20 minutes, I should hope to be 10% as efficient! Do you suppose the 1mz is about like this? Thanks for the video. It will be very helpful.
Thanks ... took me around 3.5 hrs real time. The 1MZ is easier in that I don't need to compress the tensioner pin ... the pin gets compressed when I tighten the mounting bolts simultaneously ... watch my ES300 Timing belt replacement and you'll see what I mean.
Ok, thanks. That will be great info for me.