sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know a tool to get back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb lost my password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Zane John Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
This is an amazingly helpful video!! I like to have things printed out. So here are my notes documenting it. Key time stamps included. I'm a DIYer, not a mechanic. I've watched this video twice and will have my notes with me. Prep for rear valve cover 1. Remove wiper blades, caps and 13mm nuts (0:13) [Take note of their position for later reinstall, perhaps mark spot on glass with masking tape.] 2. Remove plastic windshield box cover, pull clips, (1:00) 3. Unplug electrical cable in middle, pull cable free from frame (1:32) 4. Pull cable through grommet hole. (1:48) 5. Unbolt wiper assembly 4x 10mm bolts (2:00) 6. Unbolt metal tray, bracket with 10mm bolts (2:34) 7. Remove array of 10mm bolts Removal of front valve cover begins 8. Remove engine cover, 3x 5mm hex (3:18) 9. [Take reference pictures!! This will help with reinstalling hoses later etc.] 10. Vacuum!!! Avoid debris issues 11. Remove coils, 10mm bolts (3:29) 12. Unbolt E6 torx to remove wiring harness (3:38) 13. Take vent line off 14. Remove 10mm fasteners around valve cover, flex radiator hose out of the way (4:00) 15. Lift out the valve cover. Clean up edges !! 1. Scrape off old silicone by cam lobes 16. Rip out / remove half moon thing (5:56) 17. Clean cover and then replace gaskets 1. Bend little prongs out of the way (6:17) Putting back the front valve cover begins 18. Place black sealant at correct spots (6:58) [place cover within a few minutes after applying sealant] 1) Two corners of the “cam lobes” 2) half moon 3) lip/edge (2x spots) 19. Reinstall but don’t tighten!. Check everything with a dental mirror!! (8:00) 20. Reinstall 10 mm fasteners around valve cover. Criss Cross pattern! Quarter turn to snug. (71 inch pounds is 5.9 foot pounds) 21. Reinstall E6 torx for wiring harness 22. Install coils (9:15) More clearing a path to the rear valve cover 23. Unplug mass air flow sensor (9:25) 24. Remove air box, hose clamps etc. remove vacuum lines. 25. Remove throttle body facing (4x bolts), let hang with lines attached (9:59) 26. Remove 2nd part throttle body, side bolt plus 5 front bolts (?) Remove left side hose, move throttle body part off to the side with hose attached. 27. Unbolt vacuum manifold 10mm (11:20), flip forwards out of the way. 28. On manifold, unplug hoses 29. Start removing the 12mm bolts working your way to the 14mm bolt of back pain (12:01) Optional but maybe helpful, loosen or remove nuts on pressure feed tube This pressure tube is partially in the way of the 14mm bolt Going under the van to loosen bolts is mentioned here in the video. 30. One last clean up, vacuum, blow away loose debris. Don’t let junk fall into engine!! 31. Remove 8mm allen/hex screws on top 32. Remove 14mm nuts on two corners of bracket; then remove the metal bracket. You can leave the electrical ground strap attached. 33. Optional but helpful: remove e8 studs. Removing these studs helps pull plenum easier. 34. With plenum lifted but not fully removed, Remove PCV hose on back left of intake 35. Fully pull out plastic manifold (aka, intake air surge tank) (14:44) 36. Safety tip!!! Cover up the ports with rags!! 37. Remove coils (14:48) 38. Loosen / Remove wire loom from studs 39. Unplug fuel injectors 40. Remove wiring harness; plastic clips on left, 10mm bolts on back (15:40) 41. go under the van and loosen (but not fully undo) the surge tank stay bottom bolts. 1. You want this to create the clearance to remove the valve cover, the hangers then move out of the way (15:52) 2. Tip: check if it is now possible to loosen the bottom hanger bolts from the top. This will save you jack up time and going underneath if you can reach from the top. Otherwise, go underneath safely and loosen the bottom bolts. 42. Remove valve cover bolts, then pry up with screw driver (16:17) Cleaning rear valve cover 43. Lift out the valve cover. Clean up edges !! 1. Scrape off old silicone by cam lobes 44. Remove out / remove half moon thing 45. Clean cover, half moon and then install new gaskets 1. Bend little prongs out of the way Putting back the Rear valve cover begins 46. Reapply new silicone (17:28) 47. Push wiring harness out of way 48. Reinstall valve cover but don’t tighten!. Check everything with a dental mirror!! You don’t want leaks! 1. Especially check the back right with mirror. (18:47) 2. Optional but perhaps helpful, check gasket from under the vehicle. 49. Once done checking, tighten valve cover bolts, crisscross starting in center. Putting it all back together 50. Place ignition coils in place (19:30) 51. Place wiring harness in place 52. Plug in fuel injector clips back into injectors, remount plastic studs onto holders (19:49) 53. Remove rag and look inside ports to make sure nothing fell in. (20:05) 54. Replace plenum gasket. 55. Put manifold back in place. Do PCV hose first (20:29) 56. Put metal bracket in, then install studs/bolts. Allen nuts first, then 14mm in corners 57. Torque the bolts to 21 foot pounds. 58. Flip vacuum switch plate back into place, 10mm bolts (21:38) 59. Plug left & right side vacuum lines in. Check hood sticker for reference. 60. 14mm bolt on left side bracket is hardest, do it by hand first. Then ratchet down. (22:00) 61. Reinstall inner throttle body, torque to 21 ft lbs. (22:54) 62. Plug in side vacuum hose on throttle body (23:04) 63. Install bolt on side bracket 64. Install outer throttle body, torque to 11 ft lbs (23:28) 65. Put hose / air boot back on, reinstall vacuum lines / vent hose 66. Make sure mass air flow sensor (MAF) is reinstalled 67. Visually double check everything!! 68. Go underneath vehicle and tighten bottom hanger bolts, torque 14 ft lbs (24:28) 69. Install top engine cover Reinstall wiper stuff (24:50) 10. 10mm bolts for metal tray, torque to 66 inch pounds (5.4 ft lbs) 11. Install wiper motor assembly, 49 inch pounds 12. Feed wires back through the hole. Re install wires. 13. Double check everything is back in place 14. Reinstall plastic panel top cover with clips 15. Reinstall wiper arms , 15 ft lbs.
I have watched several videos doing valve cover gaskets on Toyota V6, and this is the best. This is about the same difficulty with RX300 which I've just did recently. When I worked on this, I also replace spark plugs, throttle cleaning, IAC valve cleaning, electrical wires recondition, coolant change, cleaning around the block etc... and it took me more than a day to finish.
minh do everything you did on the RX was good preventative maintenance. This One should take a lot less time now that you have some experience. Good luck with the repair and thank you for watching!
Mission complete! Probably the biggest engine job I’ve done in a long time. The hardest part where is the back bolts coming from underneath. Thank you very much for not just the video, but the step-by-step instructions on where you did it. Totally could not have done it without your help.
CAUTION: VALVE COVER BOLTS 8.8 Ft/LBS or 106 INCH/LBS. Love your work it was very informative and helped me get the job done. A word of caution for anybody following this. TORQUE THE VALVE COVER PROPERLY. I followed the advise to bottom the bolts out but I never felt the bottom and broke one off in the very back using a small 1/4 ratchet driver. After that I took all the other bolts out and replaced them with new ones and torqued them to spec. Couldn't get the broken one out. Used the RTV on that corner and we'll see if she leaks.
I've done this before. Just drill the remaining screw out, tap a new hole and rethread. It's not that hard. Buy a helicoil kit, a decent tap wrench and drill. The cylinder head is aluminum so it will cut thru it like butter. But you are right - torquing even a little bit over 8 ftlb will likely snap a bolt off
Brian, thank you sooooooo much. I relied on your video the most. The rear valve cover gasket replacement was the most frustrating ever. I must have stated every expletive in existence. But I finished and there was no MIL light. Vehicle runs great. No more oil leakage on my 223K mileage Sienna. Hope it lasts to 300K. But I have to change the timing belt/water pump next. I have confidence now.
@@MattL.-KE0SAW the belts and water pump replacements were successful, thanks to Brian again along with other guys’ videos. But right now I get a brief screeching sound on startup soon after the job. Alternator, starter, loose belts? Not sure yet. Vehicle runs fine otherwise. Oh and I also got to replace the flex pipe on the exhaust. Always fun stuff!
@jtom8888 I've also got a flex pipe coming up. The thing is 18 years old after all. I would say check the belt tensioners for power steering and the alternator. Might have gotten a little slack in them.
@@MattL.-KE0SAW Thanks, I'm hoping that's the case since the noise came up soon after. Maybe the new belts started stretching out so I'll tighten them a little further.
I hope that is a once-in-the-life-of-the-van job. Took me about 4 hours by myself. I found it odd that getting that p. side upper intake support bracket back on was easier than getting it off. Also, I didn't remove the intake studs, just the allen-head bolts and nuts. Having a couple little elastic cords to hold things out of the way was very helpful. Thanks again for making the video.
I just followed your video and changed my front gasket…only because of time. But it worked!! And the van worked better than ever! Thank you so, so much!!! You saved me thousands!
About to tackle this project on my Highlander and after watching an endless amount of videos of Toyota valve covers/spark plugs I have to say this is the best most detailed one.
@@HowtoAutomotive About half way done those bolts in the back are something. lol. Had the spark plugs replaced about 8 years ago and when removing the valve cover bolts all of them were loose no wonder it’s been leaking oil for so long. In your experience do those loosen over time like that or did someone not tighten them correctly.
@@nonya1232 They will not come loose by themselves, so they were most likely loosened up to get more work in the future. I did the valve cover gaskets when I was doing the plugs on my daughter's Rx330 and also cleaned the throttle body while it was disassembled.
@@pawwalton2157 Unfortunately that’s what I thought happened. Not the first time little things were done wrong so I would have to come back. That’s why I been trying to do as much as I can on my own 💪. Also took advantage and cleaned the throttle body too.
@@nonya1232 The gasket loses its elasticity over time and flattens out a bit causing the bolts to become loose which causes oil leak. Not a bad idea to re-torque them after a while. On my 04 Highlander the torque spec is 71 in-lb (just under 6 ft-lb).
Removing Wiper Blade Assembly 1. Pull off wiper caps 2. Remove nuts under the wiper caps (13mm) 3. Pull off the wiper arms 4. Remove plastic wiper cover by removing clips on the bottom and pulling hooks off the glass 5. Unplug window defroster and wiper motor 6. Unclip wiring harness all the way down 7. Pull wiring harness (with the gromet) through the hole it comes out of to get it out of the way 8. Remove 4 bolts holding the wiper motor assembly on (10mm) 9. Remove the wiper motor 10. Start removing the metal tray under the wiper motor by removing two bolts from the bracket in the middle (10mm) 11. Pull that braket out 12. Remove all the 10mm bolts around the sides of this metal tray 13. Grab the tray, lift toward you and upwards to remove Front Valve Cover 14. Remove the engine cover 15. Unplug ignition coils 16. Unbolt and remove ignition coils 17. Unbolt the wiring harness for the ignition coils (E6 male torque bolts), and pull the vent line off the right side of the valve cover 18. Flip the wiring harness back toward the manifold (you can hold it back with a bungie cord to get it out of the way) 19. Remove all the 10mm bolts around the front valve cover (one on the left is covered by the radiator hose, which can be flexed out of the way) 20. Pull the valve cover off 21. Remove the oil cap 22. Remove the circular tube seals and the gasket all around the cover 23. Wash the valve cover 24. Go around the cylinder head, wiping oil and debris off of the edge surface 25. Scrape old silicone off where it is applied on the sides 26. Remove half moon cam plug from the right side. 27. Clean oil and silicone off the cam plug 28. Bend one side tab op on each tube hole on the underside of the valve cover so the new tube seals can fit in 29. Insert the new seals and bend the tab back down 30. Insert the new gasket 31. Put a small amount of black silicone on the rounded side of the cam plug and put it back in the cylinder head (push it in until it fully seats itself) 32. Put a thin layer of black silicone on the small ridge on the right side of the cylinder head to seal it up 33. With radiator hose and wiring harness tucked out of the way, lower the valve cover down onto the cylinder head, push it down with the tube seals lining up 34. Look around the entire valve cover with a dental mirror to make sure it didn't slip off anywhere. 35. Starting in the middle and working out to the edges, snug on the 10mm bolts that fasten the valve cover. 35. Tighten down these bolts in the same order 36. Flip the wiring harness back down and tighten down the e6 torque bolts. 37. Reinstall the coils + plug them in + bolt them down 38. Put the oil cap back on, but leave the vent line off Get Access to the Rear Valve Cover 39. Unplug mass air flow sensor 40. Loosen the hose clamp behind the air box so it can be removed 41. Pull off vent line on the left 42. Pull off the yellow, red and black hoses from the left side of the air box 43. Remove the top of the air box (one bolt on front, one on back) 44. With air box remove, remove the four bolts from the front throttle body it was attached to 45. If your Evap Vent line is hard, work around it because messing with it wll break it. Otherwise, pull it off and get it out of the way 46. With hoses still attached to the bottom of it, pull the front throttle body off and let it rest on the open air box 47. The throttle body gasket is now exposed, note that it is domed backwards. Keep it that way when putting everything back. (sits between front and rear throttle body) 48. Remove the support bracket bolt on the side of the rear throttle body 49. Remove the 5 fastening bolts from the rear throttle body 50. Remove the hose from the left side of the rear throttle body 51. Leaving the hose on the other side of it attached, pull the rear throttle body off and let it sit off to the side with the front throttle body 52. Unbolt vacuum switch manifold (one bolt on each side.) 52. Leaving everything attached to this, flip it toward the front valve cover. 53. Unplug the vacuum hose on the right side of the intake manifold and flip it toward the air box. 54. Unplug the vacuum hose on the left side of the intake manifold and flip it off to the left 55. Remove the support bracket bolt from the back right of the intake manifold. 56. Go underneath the vehicle and look up toward the rear valve cover. Loosen the 14mm bracket bolt on the underside of the Cylinder head on the passenger side. 57. There is another bracket just behind the exhaust on the driver side. Loosen that too. Neither of these bolts should be removed, just loosened. 58. Further toward the driver side, around the side of the engine there is a third bracket that should be loosened by a few threads. Let these 3 brackets hang loose. (this is all so we can move them out of the way later.) 59. Still under the vehicle, it is easier to access the 10mm bolt on the back of the rear valve cover in the corner on the passenger side. Remove that from here. 60. Back up top, there is a bracket on the far left side behind the intake manifold. Crack it free with a small wrench (14mm) 61. Reach back and remove that 14mm bolt by hand 62. Clean debris off the intake manifold to prevent it from falling into the engine when the manifold is removed 63. On the rear left corner there is a valve with a little elbow hose coming off of it. Undo the squeeze clamp and pull this hose off 64. Remove 8mm alan screws from around the intake manifold. 65. Remove the 14mm nuts from each side of the intake manifold 66. Remove the metal bracket off the top of the intake manifold and set it aside with the ground strap still attached. 67. Remove the studs on the side (e8 torque bolts) 68. Pull the manifold out (you may need to now fully remove the elbow hose if you couldn’t do it before) 69. Lay a cloth over the intake manifold holes to prevent debris from getting in the engine 70. Remove the 3 rear ignition coils (connections and bolts) 71. Pull the wiring harness clips off the studs on the rear valve cover. 72. Unplug the 3 electrical connections for the fuel injectors and flip the wiring harness off toward the left 73. There is a main wiring harness that snakes around the back of the valve cover. On the left there are a couple clips holding it in place. Flip the tabs here to lift it up. 74. Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding this main wiring harness onto the valve cover. 75. Push the now loose wiring harness back toward the firewall to get it out of the way. Rear Valve Cover 76. Undo all the bolts around the rear Valve cover. 77. Pull off the rear valve cover. You can insert a flat screwdriver into the corner and twist to pry it up. 78. Remove the half moon cam plug from the cylinder head. 78. Clean off the rim of the cylinder head and the half moon cam plug 79. Put some black silicone in the corner of the cam lobes on the left of the cylinder head. 80. Put silicone on the cam plug and reinsert it 81. Put silicone on the ridge (same as front) 82. Clean the valce cover and insert the gasket and tube plugs 83. Reinsert the valve cover while pushing the wiring harness out of the way. 84. Use a dental mirror to make sure the gasket did not fall off anywhere, maybe also going under the vehicle to check out the back side. 85. Tighten down the bolts in the same pattern as the front cover Put everything back together 86. Reattach the main wiring harness to the rear valve cover. 87. Reinsert the ignition coils + bolt them down + plug them in. 88. Redo the clips for the main wiring harness on the side 89. Flip the injector wires back into position and plug the fuel injectors back in 90. reclip the injector harness back onto the studs 91. Pull off the rags and clean off the ports on the intake (look down and make sure nothing fell in) 92. Install the new intake manifold gasket to the plastic side of the intake that you removed. 93. Reattach the elbow hose of the manifold to the rear valve cover 94. Lower the intake manifold into position 95. Reinstall the studs on the sides of the intake manifold. 96. Reinstall the metal bracket on top of the intake manifold with the alan bolts and nuts that screw onto the studs. (torque all these down to 21 ft/lbs starting in the middle) 97. Flip the vacuum switch plate back over the studs. (one 10mm bolt on each side.) 98. Plug the vacuum line on the far left side back in 99. Plug the vacuum line on the far right side back in 100. Reinstall the 14mm bracket bolt onto the back left side of the intake manifold. 101. Reinstall the 12mm bracket bolt onto the back right side of the intake manifold 102. Reinstall the rear throttle body back on (5 main bolts and one bracket bolt on the side. (21 ft/lbs) 103. Plug the vacuum line into the rear throttle body. 104. Reinstall the front throttle body with the 4 bolts holding it on (11 ft/lbs) 105. Reinstall the air box top, tighten the hose clamp to the throttle body 106. Reinstall the vacuum lines to the air box top. 107. Plug in the mass air flow sensor 108. Plug the vent line back into the front valve cover 109. Go underneath the vehicle and tighten the 3 brackets back up 110. Install the engine cover 111. Reinstall the windsheild wiper tray and start all the 10mm bolts back in 112. Reinstall the bracket for the wiper tray 113. Reinstall the wiper motor. 114. Feed the wiring harness back through into the tray and plug in the wiper motor and defroster. 115. Get the wiring harness gromet and clips back in place 116. Get the plastic wiper paneling and clip it back onto the windshield, then lower the front half down and press the clips in. 117. Reinstall the wiper arms 118. Reinstall the wiper arm nuts and plastic caps
Im not a mechanic AT ALL but with that being said i probably know more than half em working today but this video did help me complete this , this past weekend on my wifes 2004 sienna. I did all 6 of her spark plugs a few years ago so i wasnt that lost but never did a valve cover gasket Job . Thanks for all the info......as i always say having the right tools is 90% of the job
Awesome video! Best I have ever seen on replacing Valve Cover and Manifold gasket(s) on a Toyota (my Lexus Rx330 is a Sienna replica). Recommendation for those going to do this; replace PCV valve (only $5 item), and (carefully) clean throttle body before reassembly.
Excellent recommendations! Replacing PCV valves every 3-4 years is one of the best bang-for-the-buck things you can do. On my Highlander, installing the PCV valve was a relative nightmare with everything installed. Not sure how it is on the Sienna. On many vehicles, it is very simple to do.
Agreed. If you're going to do this job, do 1. the valve cover gaskets 2. Spark Plugs 3. Clean the throttle body (if you don't you risk idle issues). 4. PCV (it's a cheap part) 5. The plenum gasket.
This was an awesome video to follow. It took me much longer than 27 minutes to complete, but I wouldn't have been able to do it without this. Thank you!
Excellent tutorial, definitely one of best step by step DIY. As someone earlier said, seems like I'm standing next to you and you are teaching me. Huge thanks.
Great job explaining everything on the video and how to do the valve cover gaskets. You saved me a lot of time 👍👍 I just finished mine since the vehicle was new, 2006 with 186K miles.
Thank you for your video!! I was able to successfully do this job on our 2004 Sienna with your instructions. Not only saved us some money but also provides a sense of accomplishment. Thanks again.
This is a great video, I was stressing about doing this job on my 06 sienna but with what little experience I have I feel confident to attempt it. You said in a comment it was about a $400 job with parts and labor but when I called the Toyota dealership a while back I believe they quoted me $2300. Wow so definitely Savin some money trying it hopefully. Thanks a lot.
Great Video. I have a 2006 Toyota Sienna that needs a new valve cover gasket for the front head, but since I also need to replace the spark plugs, this would be an efficient way to do the back valve cover gasket as well, knocking both jobs out since the disassembly is nearly the same. And, while everything is apart, it is a perfect opportunity to do a good cleaning of the throttle body.
thank you! i have to do this job on my grams van, the sideways mount v6 seemed intimidating as hell. thank you for this video!!! saved me almost 500 bucks!
Great instructional video on this gasket replacement:-) I know this is an older video, only “while you are in there” I would have done is replace the spark plugs and changed out PCV valve followed by cleaning the MAF sensor and IAC valve😊. Again great repair video!
Excellent video, couldn't have done it without the guidance, took me a long time though, about the most tedious work I have done on my 04 Sienna, thank you.
Great walkthrough! Any chance you'd know where I can get those exact male e6 torx bolts @3:45 online? A Toyota parts dealership pointed me to a version with the bolt, but it didn't have that "nut" on there.
Used this video to do my valve cover gasket on my 2006 toyota solara 3.3l and it was some work but this video saved me plenty of time!! I recommend buyinhg a couple extra of those blue rings that come with the vale cover gasket as i broke two trying to get mine in (really had to push hard)
This is a fantastic video. However, you should really consider changing the title. This job must have been done on a 2004-2007 Sienna because you can tell by the engine bay that it is a 3MZ-FE which is a 3.3L V6. In late 2007, Toyota changed the engine to the 3.5L V6 2GR-FE and it stayed that way at least until 2010. The 2GR-FE makes the job a bit more challenging. First, the wiring harness runs on top of both valve covers and you have VVT oil control valves (2) and cam shaft position sensors (2) on top of each valve cover that contribute more to the complexity of the job. Not only do you have to remove all those connections, but you likely have to disconnect the wiring harness from the alternator so that you can move it completely out of the way to get rear cover off. The valve covers themselves are a bit different as well. There is no half moon piece that you have to worry about. Only need to place gasket compound on the spots where the timing chain cover mates with the cylinder heads. Also, because the 2GR-FE covers have thos VVT oil control valves, you have additional seals that you need to install. You also have VVTI oil lines that attach to both covers that need the metal seals replaced. For this reason, the valve cover gasket kit for Siennas between 2007-2010 is a completely different Fel-Pro part # (VS50682R). So for all the reasons above, I would change this video title to 2004-2007 instead.
Brian, thank you very much for the details in your video. It was just what I needed to replace the valve cover gaskets on my 2006 Sienna. I replaced the plugs too while I had everything apart. :)
THANK YOU SO MUCH for such a detailed video!!! If you’re not teaching …. You should. Community college offering mechanic courses could really use someone like you!!!
Great video, simple and step by step. Just the bolt behind manifold is 12 in my case not 14. Just be ready guys to change some gaskets and hoses, some are fried, I replaced pcv valve in my 2005, it was dirty as hell. And be very gentle with valve cover bolts because they get broken easily. Cleaning oil around the engine is very easy with diesel, not that stuff is sold at the store, that's not work well as diesel.
Thank you for the video. I need to change my knock sensor, and the disassembly of the intake and all was helpful, especially about going under the car to loosen the bracket. I have a question about the bracket. It seems that reaching behind the plenum is one of the more challenging parts of the job because you have to do it blind. Do you think if I just went under and loosened the bracket from the bottom, that I can still get the plenum out without having to mess with the three bolts by the firewall? Would that make the job easier?
It's the windshield angle that causes the issue; older Siennas had a steeper windsield and flatter hood, but this version gets great highway fuel economy.
Excellent video. I love the way you not only show the removal but also putting everything back together. I did the front on mine but have not tackled the rear yet. Looks like a real PITA. I have to wait until I can have the car out of service for a few days. Just in case of unexpected issues. This video will be a great help. Thanks.
Excellent video! I'll be doing this soon on a 2006 Highlander 3.3L; not looking forward to it! My main interest was if the intake had to be removed and what gaskets/ seals were needed. Thanks for sharing!
Getting ready to tackle this job. Only thing I'm concerned with I'm not working on the lift. So those back bolts you loosen up so those brackets move around to get the intake off. Did you disconnect the wire to the power steering up? Good video thanks
Your how-to vid is very efficient for the user. I was able to back up several times to follow the details. THANKS! Just one question. I'll follow your procedure to access and correct a misfire in the #5 cylinder. Is it indeed necessary or best to remove the throttle body in two pieces?
Thank for the video. Really helpful in preparing to change both front/rear valve gasket. My question, I have a 2005 Highlander with a V6 3.3L engine. Will your procedure work the same. I am hoping it will Thanks again
I had a sienna with the valve cover gaskets leaking just a little. I regretted not just fixing it (and some of the other things wrong with it) and keeping the vehicle (it was so handy hauling all kinds of stuff). Seeing what it takes to repair, glad I got rid of it.
I just completed this job on a 06 Toyota Solara. Perfect video and I appreciate it. Question: what if the spark plug seals put in backwards, would this cause an issue?
Great video!!!!! I am using this video to further explain things concerning my 2007 Highlander with the 3.3L engine. The other videos concerning my Highlander are missing some cool details that you mention in your video. Thanks so much!!!
I"ve got 141K on my Sienna with a leaky front cover. I'm assuming it would be smart to do timing belt, water pump, cam seals, valve cover gaskets and plugs all at the same time...right? Previous maintenance is up to date.
BRIAN, Good video and info the step by step you showed is really helpful to who ever want to do this job by himself great hand own teaching thanks for sharing. cheeeeeers
Extremely helpful video, thanks for taking the time. On the same engine have you ever done the intake cam gears for the vvti? My 2006 is noisy and not getting the same Mileage as before. I was told it won’t hurt anything important but I recently had to replace both cat converters and I think that was the reason. Is it worth doing and do you have any tips?
No wonder mechanics charge an arm and a leg to replace the back valve cover gasket. I need to replace mine in my 2000 sienna but hell if I can afford it right now. My hat's off to the mechanics of this country.
@@straypussy After doing it myself, I noticed he did it right. It looks wrong, but it's right. You'll have to press the cover on when you put it back together, so the spark plugs tube slide into the rubber gaskets. Awesome video! (p.s., I tried them both ways and it cost me another gasket set =/ )
I take a piece of cardboard and sketch the part I'm working on... such as a valve cover. Then I push the bolts through it one at a time as i remove them into the matching spots on my drawing. This helps holds the bolts in place and is especially helpful when a part has several bolts of different lengths and sizes.
the vacuum line diagram sticker is on the cowl.. the high pressure line is held on to the surge tank also, - one nut is on the tank ( you must take this off to access the starboard side upper brace bolt in the rear) other than that thanks!!
I know that this is 4 years old but I am unable to remove those E6 stud bolts that are on the front cover. I think i stripped one of them and have not tried the other. I just sprayed some PB blaster hoping it will loosen up any rust and try again. I don't know why couldn't be just regular bolts. The ones you were working on came off so quickly.
Great video as these videos go. If you could do a timing belt with water pump(same year range) etc..would be great as there are videos but not a clear step by step like this..
Julio from trujillo A. PR. , I have to a sienna 08 is 3.5L, I am amateur some skills mec. DIY, weekens, I wonder if can do it, on 2 or 3 days resting, alternating day
@@orlandoortiz689 Saludos Bro, Yo soy diabetico y con un poco de todo, yo lo ize poco a poco y sin saber nada de mechanica. Este video me ayudo mucho! Lo logre hacer pero me tomo mucho tiempo, graciasca Dios estoy retirado. No te voy a decir que es facil pues no lo es, yo tenia que acostarme encima del motor muchas vezes y casi no hay espacio para las manos. Yo decidi arreglarlo yo mismo pues donde quiera cobraban mucho dinero por ello. Trata de hacerlo debajo de sombra y con paciencia y lo lograras.
Great video, I am stick on getting the wiring harness out, I stopped and put everything back together. Any idea on what to due if the e bolts stripped?
I stripped the e bolt on the front valve cover that holds the ignition coil harness (near the radiator side) and was able to use locking plier to remove it. Just make sure to spray some kroil on any bolts that havent been removed in a while before removing them
Hi Brian, When I replaced my front valve cover gaskets and spark plugs on my 08 Sienna I noticed that all 3 sparkplugs were coated in motor oil, I had to remove the spark plug tubes (No easy task) and fixed the leaks. I'm wondering how to do this in the rear bank of the motor where there is barely any space, if those tubes are leaking as well, do you have any advise on this? Thank you for this video!!
Hey question I have a toothache 2004. With a 157 miles, it does lose and power very badly. When I'm driving, what could be the problem? Could it be the transmission or could it be the senses?
You skipped the removal of the 3 studs that hold the 4mm Allen nuts which hold the front of the engine cover. Do those go through the valve cover? What if they won’t come out? Mine broke off. What then?
Just did this a few days ago. What a pain I had with that wiring harness, it's super tight and difficult to maneuver around. 1st try, the gasket came off in the rear, took me a few tries to jam it in there. Just wanted to search and see if it really is that difficult or an easier way out and found ur video. Well I'm glad I'm done and dont have to deal with it for another 100k or so. While in there, also think about replacing your coils/plugs, and pcv valve. Maybe I should of done air/fuel sensor too. It was right behind the valve cover. Oh well
Yes, I'm planning on doing this job next month and it looks like the wire harness will be the nr 1 PITA. Do you have any suggestions on best way to move it out of the way? The three 10mm nuts holding it across the top of valve cover is an easy step, but after that, then what?
@@Kielyn123 that harness is one place I remember I used some force. I didnt look around to see if I could unbolt something to loosen it up, maybe try that. Afterwards take some rope and try to tie it out the way. The main idea is to apply force so it gives you enough clearance to reinstall valve cover. I also used a mechanics mirrors to make sure gasket sealed all around the rear valve cover. Also use your hand to feel it. Be 100% sure, this is one job you dont wanna do again. Make sure to apply rtv sealant in the right spots, I believe I used a q tip to make life easier then I let it dry overnight before firing the car up. If your replacing those tube seals, that's another darn nightmare if they never were replaced since ownership because they get hard and brittle with time and break while yanking off. I had to bend a screwdriver, carefully get it in there and slowly yank them out. Did manage to make some small scratches on seating surface, but that okay, wasnt too bad and no leaks ever since.
If you gentlemen want to get the valve covers really clean with no effort at all , spray them with oven cleaner. You will be amazed at how clean they will get... Remember follow the instructions on the can of cleaner... GB
Looks like I won't be checking the gaskets while looking at a used vehicle to buy hahaha! Bookmarking the video in case I do end up with a Sienna though. Great job!
It'll make this video better if you correct the title to 2004-2006, because Sienna in 2007 got the newer 3.5 2GR-FE engine which is slightly different.
Is it any different on the 3.5L Siennas? Who makes the best Gasket set these days, FEL PRO still? which silicone set with plug seals for an 07 Sienna LE 3.5L would you go with? Also, what is your fav spark plug for the Sienna? The OEM toyota denso or The NGK laser Iradium, or the NGK Iradium IX? I'm looking for the best Sparkplug so I don't have to rip apart this van again anytime soon...It's hot as hell in Florida. Awesome vids man, Thank you in advance.
Hi Iike to own that power tools you use to remove the volt can you tell me how many watts, volts, or torque I'm want to get exactly the one you use I never own a powertools before thanks
Excellent vid! You explain things just like I am standing there right next to you while you are working. It feels like a one on one lesson.
bill beckett thank you very Nice to hear!! Thank you for watching!
Excellent video. But it's a lot of work. That should be done by the pro instead of DIY.
sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know a tool to get back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb lost my password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Hayden Cole Instablaster ;)
@Zane John Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
This is an amazingly helpful video!! I like to have things printed out. So here are my notes documenting it. Key time stamps included. I'm a DIYer, not a mechanic. I've watched this video twice and will have my notes with me.
Prep for rear valve cover
1. Remove wiper blades, caps and 13mm nuts (0:13) [Take note of their position for later reinstall, perhaps mark spot on glass with masking tape.]
2. Remove plastic windshield box cover, pull clips, (1:00)
3. Unplug electrical cable in middle, pull cable free from frame (1:32)
4. Pull cable through grommet hole. (1:48)
5. Unbolt wiper assembly 4x 10mm bolts (2:00)
6. Unbolt metal tray, bracket with 10mm bolts (2:34)
7. Remove array of 10mm bolts
Removal of front valve cover begins
8. Remove engine cover, 3x 5mm hex (3:18)
9. [Take reference pictures!! This will help with reinstalling hoses later etc.]
10. Vacuum!!! Avoid debris issues
11. Remove coils, 10mm bolts (3:29)
12. Unbolt E6 torx to remove wiring harness (3:38)
13. Take vent line off
14. Remove 10mm fasteners around valve cover, flex radiator hose out of the way (4:00)
15. Lift out the valve cover. Clean up edges !!
1. Scrape off old silicone by cam lobes
16. Rip out / remove half moon thing (5:56)
17. Clean cover and then replace gaskets
1. Bend little prongs out of the way (6:17)
Putting back the front valve cover begins
18. Place black sealant at correct spots (6:58) [place cover within a few minutes after applying sealant]
1) Two corners of the “cam lobes” 2) half moon 3) lip/edge (2x spots)
19. Reinstall but don’t tighten!. Check everything with a dental mirror!! (8:00)
20. Reinstall 10 mm fasteners around valve cover. Criss Cross pattern! Quarter turn to snug. (71 inch pounds is 5.9 foot pounds)
21. Reinstall E6 torx for wiring harness
22. Install coils (9:15)
More clearing a path to the rear valve cover
23. Unplug mass air flow sensor (9:25)
24. Remove air box, hose clamps etc. remove vacuum lines.
25. Remove throttle body facing (4x bolts), let hang with lines attached (9:59)
26. Remove 2nd part throttle body, side bolt plus 5 front bolts (?)
Remove left side hose, move throttle body part off to the side with hose attached.
27. Unbolt vacuum manifold 10mm (11:20), flip forwards out of the way.
28. On manifold, unplug hoses
29. Start removing the 12mm bolts working your way to the 14mm bolt of back pain (12:01)
Optional but maybe helpful, loosen or remove nuts on pressure feed tube
This pressure tube is partially in the way of the 14mm bolt
Going under the van to loosen bolts is mentioned here in the video.
30. One last clean up, vacuum, blow away loose debris. Don’t let junk fall into engine!!
31. Remove 8mm allen/hex screws on top
32. Remove 14mm nuts on two corners of bracket; then remove the metal bracket.
You can leave the electrical ground strap attached.
33. Optional but helpful: remove e8 studs. Removing these studs helps pull plenum easier.
34. With plenum lifted but not fully removed, Remove PCV hose on back left of intake
35. Fully pull out plastic manifold (aka, intake air surge tank) (14:44)
36. Safety tip!!! Cover up the ports with rags!!
37. Remove coils (14:48)
38. Loosen / Remove wire loom from studs
39. Unplug fuel injectors
40. Remove wiring harness; plastic clips on left, 10mm bolts on back (15:40)
41. go under the van and loosen (but not fully undo) the surge tank stay bottom bolts.
1. You want this to create the clearance to remove the valve cover, the hangers then move out of the way (15:52)
2. Tip: check if it is now possible to loosen the bottom hanger bolts from the top. This will save you jack up time and going underneath if you can reach from the top. Otherwise, go underneath safely and loosen the bottom bolts.
42. Remove valve cover bolts, then pry up with screw driver (16:17)
Cleaning rear valve cover
43. Lift out the valve cover. Clean up edges !!
1. Scrape off old silicone by cam lobes
44. Remove out / remove half moon thing
45. Clean cover, half moon and then install new gaskets
1. Bend little prongs out of the way
Putting back the Rear valve cover begins
46. Reapply new silicone (17:28)
47. Push wiring harness out of way
48. Reinstall valve cover but don’t tighten!. Check everything with a dental mirror!! You don’t want leaks!
1. Especially check the back right with mirror. (18:47)
2. Optional but perhaps helpful, check gasket from under the vehicle.
49. Once done checking, tighten valve cover bolts, crisscross starting in center.
Putting it all back together
50. Place ignition coils in place (19:30)
51. Place wiring harness in place
52. Plug in fuel injector clips back into injectors, remount plastic studs onto holders (19:49)
53. Remove rag and look inside ports to make sure nothing fell in. (20:05)
54. Replace plenum gasket.
55. Put manifold back in place. Do PCV hose first (20:29)
56. Put metal bracket in, then install studs/bolts. Allen nuts first, then 14mm in corners
57. Torque the bolts to 21 foot pounds.
58. Flip vacuum switch plate back into place, 10mm bolts (21:38)
59. Plug left & right side vacuum lines in. Check hood sticker for reference.
60. 14mm bolt on left side bracket is hardest, do it by hand first. Then ratchet down. (22:00)
61. Reinstall inner throttle body, torque to 21 ft lbs. (22:54)
62. Plug in side vacuum hose on throttle body (23:04)
63. Install bolt on side bracket
64. Install outer throttle body, torque to 11 ft lbs (23:28)
65. Put hose / air boot back on, reinstall vacuum lines / vent hose
66. Make sure mass air flow sensor (MAF) is reinstalled
67. Visually double check everything!!
68. Go underneath vehicle and tighten bottom hanger bolts, torque 14 ft lbs (24:28)
69. Install top engine cover
Reinstall wiper stuff (24:50)
10. 10mm bolts for metal tray, torque to 66 inch pounds (5.4 ft lbs)
11. Install wiper motor assembly, 49 inch pounds
12. Feed wires back through the hole. Re install wires.
13. Double check everything is back in place
14. Reinstall plastic panel top cover with clips
15. Reinstall wiper arms , 15 ft lbs.
Wow. Thank YOU
Thank you. Very helpful.
wow, you're a champ, i was doing this, but then read your comment, THANK YOU!
Thanks Bro. Very Informative 🙏🏽
Very considerate of you to record this information.
I have watched several videos doing valve cover gaskets on Toyota V6, and this is the best. This is about the same difficulty with RX300 which I've just did recently. When I worked on this, I also replace spark plugs, throttle cleaning, IAC valve cleaning, electrical wires recondition, coolant change, cleaning around the block etc... and it took me more than a day to finish.
minh do everything you did on the RX was good preventative maintenance. This One should take a lot less time now that you have some experience. Good luck with the repair and thank you for watching!
Man I really wonder if you live nearby... help a neighbor lmfao
Mission complete! Probably the biggest engine job I’ve done in a long time. The hardest part where is the back bolts coming from underneath. Thank you very much for not just the video, but the step-by-step instructions on where you did it. Totally could not have done it without your help.
Glad the videos helpful. Thank you for watching!
A lot of work to get to the back valve cover. Why did the engineers not make it a lot easier to get to the back valve cover?@@HowtoAutomotive
CAUTION: VALVE COVER BOLTS 8.8 Ft/LBS or 106 INCH/LBS. Love your work it was very informative and helped me get the job done. A word of caution for anybody following this. TORQUE THE VALVE COVER PROPERLY. I followed the advise to bottom the bolts out but I never felt the bottom and broke one off in the very back using a small 1/4 ratchet driver. After that I took all the other bolts out and replaced them with new ones and torqued them to spec. Couldn't get the broken one out. Used the RTV on that corner and we'll see if she leaks.
Yeah I was wondering where's the frickin torque wrench and amount.
I've done this before. Just drill the remaining screw out, tap a new hole and rethread. It's not that hard. Buy a helicoil kit, a decent tap wrench and drill. The cylinder head is aluminum so it will cut thru it like butter. But you are right - torquing even a little bit over 8 ftlb will likely snap a bolt off
@@fmashockie I tried. The broken bolt is to the back of the engine up against the firewall. It has been a year and no leaks so far.
@@mycofairbanks3321 I gotcha. I didn't realize it happened on the rear cover. Glad to hear it's not leaking though!
you should truly be proud of how much effort you put in this , this was litteraly a step by step guide an help me out so much man thank you brain !
Brian, thank you sooooooo much. I relied on your video the most. The rear valve cover gasket replacement was the most frustrating ever. I must have stated every expletive in existence. But I finished and there was no MIL light. Vehicle runs great. No more oil leakage on my 223K mileage Sienna. Hope it lasts to 300K. But I have to change the timing belt/water pump next. I have confidence now.
Glad the video was helpful and everything is good. Thank you for watching!
How did the timing belt/water pump go? I just did mine, now I'm about to do the gaskets, plugs and coils.
@@MattL.-KE0SAW the belts and water pump replacements were successful, thanks to Brian again along with other guys’ videos. But right now I get a brief screeching sound on startup soon after the job. Alternator, starter, loose belts? Not sure yet. Vehicle runs fine otherwise. Oh and I also got to replace the flex pipe on the exhaust. Always fun stuff!
@jtom8888 I've also got a flex pipe coming up. The thing is 18 years old after all. I would say check the belt tensioners for power steering and the alternator. Might have gotten a little slack in them.
@@MattL.-KE0SAW Thanks, I'm hoping that's the case since the noise came up soon after. Maybe the new belts started stretching out so I'll tighten them a little further.
I hope that is a once-in-the-life-of-the-van job. Took me about 4 hours by myself. I found it odd that getting that p. side upper intake support bracket back on was easier than getting it off. Also, I didn't remove the intake studs, just the allen-head bolts and nuts. Having a couple little elastic cords to hold things out of the way was very helpful. Thanks again for making the video.
I just followed your video and changed my front gasket…only because of time. But it worked!! And the van worked better than ever! Thank you so, so much!!! You saved me thousands!
About to tackle this project on my Highlander and after watching an endless amount of videos of Toyota valve covers/spark plugs I have to say this is the best most detailed one.
Thank you! Wishing you luck did everything go smooth for you. Thank you for watching!
@@HowtoAutomotive About half way done those bolts in the back are something. lol. Had the spark plugs replaced about 8 years ago and when removing the valve cover bolts all of them were loose no wonder it’s been leaking oil for so long. In your experience do those loosen over time like that or did someone not tighten them correctly.
@@nonya1232 They will not come loose by themselves, so they were most likely loosened up to get more work in the future. I did the valve cover gaskets when I was doing the plugs on my daughter's Rx330 and also cleaned the throttle body while it was disassembled.
@@pawwalton2157 Unfortunately that’s what I thought happened. Not the first time little things were done wrong so I would have to come back. That’s why I been trying to do as much as I can on my own 💪. Also took advantage and cleaned the throttle body too.
@@nonya1232 The gasket loses its elasticity over time and flattens out a bit causing the bolts to become loose which causes oil leak. Not a bad idea to re-torque them after a while. On my 04 Highlander the torque spec is 71 in-lb (just under 6 ft-lb).
This is unparaelled detail. You going to be a general in heaven 100%.
Removing Wiper Blade Assembly
1. Pull off wiper caps
2. Remove nuts under the wiper caps (13mm)
3. Pull off the wiper arms
4. Remove plastic wiper cover by removing clips on the bottom and pulling hooks off the glass
5. Unplug window defroster and wiper motor
6. Unclip wiring harness all the way down
7. Pull wiring harness (with the gromet) through the hole it comes out of to get it out of the way
8. Remove 4 bolts holding the wiper motor assembly on (10mm)
9. Remove the wiper motor
10. Start removing the metal tray under the wiper motor by removing two bolts from the bracket in the middle (10mm)
11. Pull that braket out
12. Remove all the 10mm bolts around the sides of this metal tray
13. Grab the tray, lift toward you and upwards to remove
Front Valve Cover
14. Remove the engine cover
15. Unplug ignition coils
16. Unbolt and remove ignition coils
17. Unbolt the wiring harness for the ignition coils (E6 male torque bolts), and pull the vent line off the right side of the valve cover
18. Flip the wiring harness back toward the manifold (you can hold it back with a bungie cord to get it out of the way)
19. Remove all the 10mm bolts around the front valve cover (one on the left is covered by the radiator hose, which can be flexed out of the way)
20. Pull the valve cover off
21. Remove the oil cap
22. Remove the circular tube seals and the gasket all around the cover
23. Wash the valve cover
24. Go around the cylinder head, wiping oil and debris off of the edge surface
25. Scrape old silicone off where it is applied on the sides
26. Remove half moon cam plug from the right side.
27. Clean oil and silicone off the cam plug
28. Bend one side tab op on each tube hole on the underside of the valve cover so the new tube seals can fit in
29. Insert the new seals and bend the tab back down
30. Insert the new gasket
31. Put a small amount of black silicone on the rounded side of the cam plug and put it back in the cylinder head (push it in until it fully seats itself)
32. Put a thin layer of black silicone on the small ridge on the right side of the cylinder head to seal it up
33. With radiator hose and wiring harness tucked out of the way, lower the valve cover down onto the cylinder head, push it down with the tube seals lining up
34. Look around the entire valve cover with a dental mirror to make sure it didn't slip off anywhere.
35. Starting in the middle and working out to the edges, snug on the 10mm bolts that fasten the valve cover.
35. Tighten down these bolts in the same order
36. Flip the wiring harness back down and tighten down the e6 torque bolts.
37. Reinstall the coils + plug them in + bolt them down
38. Put the oil cap back on, but leave the vent line off
Get Access to the Rear Valve Cover
39. Unplug mass air flow sensor
40. Loosen the hose clamp behind the air box so it can be removed
41. Pull off vent line on the left
42. Pull off the yellow, red and black hoses from the left side of the air box
43. Remove the top of the air box (one bolt on front, one on back)
44. With air box remove, remove the four bolts from the front throttle body it was attached to
45. If your Evap Vent line is hard, work around it because messing with it wll break it. Otherwise, pull it off and get it out of the way
46. With hoses still attached to the bottom of it, pull the front throttle body off and let it rest on the open air box
47. The throttle body gasket is now exposed, note that it is domed backwards. Keep it that way when putting everything back. (sits between front and rear throttle body)
48. Remove the support bracket bolt on the side of the rear throttle body
49. Remove the 5 fastening bolts from the rear throttle body
50. Remove the hose from the left side of the rear throttle body
51. Leaving the hose on the other side of it attached, pull the rear throttle body off and let it sit off to the side with the front throttle body
52. Unbolt vacuum switch manifold (one bolt on each side.)
52. Leaving everything attached to this, flip it toward the front valve cover.
53. Unplug the vacuum hose on the right side of the intake manifold and flip it toward the air box.
54. Unplug the vacuum hose on the left side of the intake manifold and flip it off to the left
55. Remove the support bracket bolt from the back right of the intake manifold.
56. Go underneath the vehicle and look up toward the rear valve cover. Loosen the 14mm bracket bolt on the underside of the Cylinder head on the passenger side.
57. There is another bracket just behind the exhaust on the driver side. Loosen that too. Neither of these bolts should be removed, just loosened.
58. Further toward the driver side, around the side of the engine there is a third bracket that should be loosened by a few threads. Let these 3 brackets hang loose. (this is all so we can move them out of the way later.)
59. Still under the vehicle, it is easier to access the 10mm bolt on the back of the rear valve cover in the corner on the passenger side. Remove that from here.
60. Back up top, there is a bracket on the far left side behind the intake manifold. Crack it free with a small wrench (14mm)
61. Reach back and remove that 14mm bolt by hand
62. Clean debris off the intake manifold to prevent it from falling into the engine when the manifold is removed
63. On the rear left corner there is a valve with a little elbow hose coming off of it. Undo the squeeze clamp and pull this hose off
64. Remove 8mm alan screws from around the intake manifold.
65. Remove the 14mm nuts from each side of the intake manifold
66. Remove the metal bracket off the top of the intake manifold and set it aside with the ground strap still attached.
67. Remove the studs on the side (e8 torque bolts)
68. Pull the manifold out (you may need to now fully remove the elbow hose if you couldn’t do it before)
69. Lay a cloth over the intake manifold holes to prevent debris from getting in the engine
70. Remove the 3 rear ignition coils (connections and bolts)
71. Pull the wiring harness clips off the studs on the rear valve cover.
72. Unplug the 3 electrical connections for the fuel injectors and flip the wiring harness off toward the left
73. There is a main wiring harness that snakes around the back of the valve cover. On the left there are a couple clips holding it in place. Flip the tabs here to lift it up.
74. Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding this main wiring harness onto the valve cover.
75. Push the now loose wiring harness back toward the firewall to get it out of the way.
Rear Valve Cover
76. Undo all the bolts around the rear Valve cover.
77. Pull off the rear valve cover. You can insert a flat screwdriver into the corner and twist to pry it up.
78. Remove the half moon cam plug from the cylinder head.
78. Clean off the rim of the cylinder head and the half moon cam plug
79. Put some black silicone in the corner of the cam lobes on the left of the cylinder head.
80. Put silicone on the cam plug and reinsert it
81. Put silicone on the ridge (same as front)
82. Clean the valce cover and insert the gasket and tube plugs
83. Reinsert the valve cover while pushing the wiring harness out of the way.
84. Use a dental mirror to make sure the gasket did not fall off anywhere, maybe also going under the vehicle to check out the back side.
85. Tighten down the bolts in the same pattern as the front cover
Put everything back together
86. Reattach the main wiring harness to the rear valve cover.
87. Reinsert the ignition coils + bolt them down + plug them in.
88. Redo the clips for the main wiring harness on the side
89. Flip the injector wires back into position and plug the fuel injectors back in
90. reclip the injector harness back onto the studs
91. Pull off the rags and clean off the ports on the intake (look down and make sure nothing fell in)
92. Install the new intake manifold gasket to the plastic side of the intake that you removed.
93. Reattach the elbow hose of the manifold to the rear valve cover
94. Lower the intake manifold into position
95. Reinstall the studs on the sides of the intake manifold.
96. Reinstall the metal bracket on top of the intake manifold with the alan bolts and nuts that screw onto the studs. (torque all these down to 21 ft/lbs starting in the middle)
97. Flip the vacuum switch plate back over the studs. (one 10mm bolt on each side.)
98. Plug the vacuum line on the far left side back in
99. Plug the vacuum line on the far right side back in
100. Reinstall the 14mm bracket bolt onto the back left side of the intake manifold.
101. Reinstall the 12mm bracket bolt onto the back right side of the intake manifold
102. Reinstall the rear throttle body back on (5 main bolts and one bracket bolt on the side. (21 ft/lbs)
103. Plug the vacuum line into the rear throttle body.
104. Reinstall the front throttle body with the 4 bolts holding it on (11 ft/lbs)
105. Reinstall the air box top, tighten the hose clamp to the throttle body
106. Reinstall the vacuum lines to the air box top.
107. Plug in the mass air flow sensor
108. Plug the vent line back into the front valve cover
109. Go underneath the vehicle and tighten the 3 brackets back up
110. Install the engine cover
111. Reinstall the windsheild wiper tray and start all the 10mm bolts back in
112. Reinstall the bracket for the wiper tray
113. Reinstall the wiper motor.
114. Feed the wiring harness back through into the tray and plug in the wiper motor and defroster.
115. Get the wiring harness gromet and clips back in place
116. Get the plastic wiper paneling and clip it back onto the windshield, then lower the front half down and press the clips in.
117. Reinstall the wiper arms
118. Reinstall the wiper arm nuts and plastic caps
Im not a mechanic AT ALL but with that being said i probably know more than half em working today but this video did help me complete this , this past weekend on my wifes 2004 sienna. I did all 6 of her spark plugs a few years ago so i wasnt that lost but never did a valve cover gasket Job . Thanks for all the info......as i always say having the right tools is 90% of the job
It's a good idea to replace the spark plugs as part of this job.
If needed i would
Awesome video! Best I have ever seen on replacing Valve Cover and Manifold gasket(s) on a Toyota (my Lexus Rx330 is a Sienna replica). Recommendation for those going to do this; replace PCV valve (only $5 item), and (carefully) clean throttle body before reassembly.
Excellent recommendations! Replacing PCV valves every 3-4 years is one of the best bang-for-the-buck things you can do. On my Highlander, installing the PCV valve was a relative nightmare with everything installed. Not sure how it is on the Sienna. On many vehicles, it is very simple to do.
Agreed. If you're going to do this job, do 1. the valve cover gaskets 2. Spark Plugs 3. Clean the throttle body (if you don't you risk idle issues). 4. PCV (it's a cheap part) 5. The plenum gasket.
best video i've found for working on the 3.3L V6 Toyota engines. I have a 2005 Toyota highlander and the process was exactly the same.
This was an awesome video to follow. It took me much longer than 27 minutes to complete, but I wouldn't have been able to do it without this. Thank you!
Excellent tutorial, definitely one of best step by step DIY. As someone earlier said, seems like I'm standing next to you and you are teaching me. Huge thanks.
Took me all day since I didn't have a ratcheting wrench set. Couldn't have done it without this video. Thanks !
Great job explaining everything on the video and how to do the valve cover gaskets. You saved me a lot of time 👍👍
I just finished mine since the vehicle was new, 2006 with 186K miles.
Thank you for your video!! I was able to successfully do this job on our 2004 Sienna with your instructions.
Not only saved us some money but also provides a sense of accomplishment.
Thanks again.
me too! 2006 sienna ftw. i do a carp ton of video research and your vids are among the best.
This is a great video, I was stressing about doing this job on my 06 sienna but with what little experience I have I feel confident to attempt it. You said in a comment it was about a $400 job with parts and labor but when I called the Toyota dealership a while back I believe they quoted me $2300. Wow so definitely Savin some money trying it hopefully. Thanks a lot.
Great Video. I have a 2006 Toyota Sienna that needs a new valve cover gasket for the front head, but since I also need to replace the spark plugs, this would be an efficient way to do the back valve cover gasket as well, knocking both jobs out since the disassembly is nearly the same. And, while everything is apart, it is a perfect opportunity to do a good cleaning of the throttle body.
Richard Backscheider definitely a good time to do all that additional work. It will be more cost-efficient to do it now together then separate later.
Going to do this and a timing belt job tomorrow on my 04 Highlander. You made it look easy hopefully I don’t run into any issues.
thank you! i have to do this job on my grams van, the sideways mount v6 seemed intimidating as hell. thank you for this video!!! saved me almost 500 bucks!
Great instructional video on this gasket replacement:-) I know this is an older video, only “while you are in there” I would have done is replace the spark plugs and changed out PCV valve followed by cleaning the MAF sensor and IAC valve😊. Again great repair video!
Excellent video, couldn't have done it without the guidance, took me a long time though, about the most tedious work I have done on my 04 Sienna, thank you.
Great walkthrough! Any chance you'd know where I can get those exact male e6 torx bolts @3:45 online? A Toyota parts dealership pointed me to a version with the bolt, but it didn't have that "nut" on there.
I'm going to be taking this job on tomorrow! Your instructions make me confident that I'll be able to do it!
How did the back one go?
This is the best video I've seen to convince a DIY'er to take his van to a mechanic. "It's just a coupla' seals. How hard could it be?"
Exactly. I wanted to do my front valve cover gasket, but chickened out and took it to a mechanic. The back still needs replacing.
I just replaced the gasket over the weekend. Very concise and exact information on this video. Thanks.
Used this video to do my valve cover gasket on my 2006 toyota solara 3.3l and it was some work but this video saved me plenty of time!! I recommend buyinhg a couple extra of those blue rings that come with the vale cover gasket as i broke two trying to get mine in (really had to push hard)
Thanks for the great detail video. Now I'm more confident to replace both gaskets + knock sensor,
That was excellent. Thank you for your time to record and edit all of this.
My Fortress Construction thank you for watching!
This is a fantastic video. However, you should really consider changing the title. This job must have been done on a 2004-2007 Sienna because you can tell by the engine bay that it is a 3MZ-FE which is a 3.3L V6. In late 2007, Toyota changed the engine to the 3.5L V6 2GR-FE and it stayed that way at least until 2010. The 2GR-FE makes the job a bit more challenging. First, the wiring harness runs on top of both valve covers and you have VVT oil control valves (2) and cam shaft position sensors (2) on top of each valve cover that contribute more to the complexity of the job. Not only do you have to remove all those connections, but you likely have to disconnect the wiring harness from the alternator so that you can move it completely out of the way to get rear cover off. The valve covers themselves are a bit different as well. There is no half moon piece that you have to worry about. Only need to place gasket compound on the spots where the timing chain cover mates with the cylinder heads. Also, because the 2GR-FE covers have thos VVT oil control valves, you have additional seals that you need to install. You also have VVTI oil lines that attach to both covers that need the metal seals replaced. For this reason, the valve cover gasket kit for Siennas between 2007-2010 is a completely different Fel-Pro part # (VS50682R). So for all the reasons above, I would change this video title to 2004-2007 instead.
Brian, thank you very much for the details in your video. It was just what I needed to replace the valve cover gaskets on my 2006 Sienna. I replaced the plugs too while I had everything apart. :)
Replacing the plugs was a smart move 👍Thank you for watching!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH for such a detailed video!!! If you’re not teaching …. You should. Community college offering mechanic courses could really use someone like you!!!
Thank you! I thought about it, but I can help more people on TH-cam versus a community college or high school.
Great video, simple and step by step.
Just the bolt behind manifold is 12 in my case not 14. Just be ready guys to change some gaskets and hoses, some are fried, I replaced pcv valve in my 2005, it was dirty as hell. And be very gentle with valve cover bolts because they get broken easily. Cleaning oil around the engine is very easy with diesel, not that stuff is sold at the store, that's not work well as diesel.
Thank you for the video. I need to change my knock sensor, and the disassembly of the intake and all was helpful, especially about going under the car to loosen the bracket. I have a question about the bracket. It seems that reaching behind the plenum is one of the more challenging parts of the job because you have to do it blind. Do you think if I just went under and loosened the bracket from the bottom, that I can still get the plenum out without having to mess with the three bolts by the firewall? Would that make the job easier?
Man, whoever thought of sideways engines should be popped. All that to do basic preventative maintenance... Love the video.
I tackled the front but afraid to do the rear
What crack were Toyota engineers smoking when they shoehorned this V6 into the Sienna?
It's the windshield angle that causes the issue; older Siennas had a steeper windsield and flatter hood, but this version gets great highway fuel economy.
Now that they make a hybrid 4cylinder sienna, some people still want this v6 again lol
It go skirt is why
Lol
Excellent video. I love the way you not only show the removal but also putting everything back together. I did the front on mine but have not tackled the rear yet. Looks like a real PITA. I have to wait until I can have the car out of service for a few days. Just in case of unexpected issues. This video will be a great help. Thanks.
Excellent video! I'll be doing this soon on a 2006 Highlander 3.3L; not looking forward to it! My main interest was if the intake had to be removed and what gaskets/ seals were needed. Thanks for sharing!
Where’s the flier link the tools you use for vcg seal the circle one ? Pls and thank you.
Awesome video. If the engine is seized how do you take the I transmission bolts out tho.
Great video. Same procedure to change out the spark plugs on many of the Toyota V6's in this configuration.
Getting ready to tackle this job. Only thing I'm concerned with I'm not working on the lift. So those back bolts you loosen up so those brackets move around to get the intake off. Did you disconnect the wire to the power steering up? Good video thanks
Your how-to vid is very efficient for the user. I was able to back up several times to follow the details. THANKS!
Just one question. I'll follow your procedure to access and correct a misfire in the #5 cylinder. Is it indeed necessary or best to remove the throttle body in two pieces?
Gotta be the best how to video ever! 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Thank you!!
Thank for the video. Really helpful in preparing to change both front/rear valve gasket. My question, I have a 2005 Highlander with a V6 3.3L engine. Will your procedure work the same. I am hoping it will
Thanks again
Jedd Go yes it’s the same. Good luck with the valve covers. Thank you for watching!
Nice video. I wonder if the wiper panel really needs to be out of the way? I am inspired by the diy video.
Perfect. I am actually doing knock sensors and was so confused by others. Thanks so much!!!
Glad the video was helpful. Thank you for watching!
how did you know your knock sensors were bad?
@@martinmaravilla5527you supposed to do a bad knock sensor for this van too. Please
That was ridiculously informative and very well put together! Thank you
I had a sienna with the valve cover gaskets leaking just a little. I regretted not just fixing it (and some of the other things wrong with it) and keeping the vehicle (it was so handy hauling all kinds of stuff). Seeing what it takes to repair, glad I got rid of it.
I just completed this job on a 06 Toyota Solara. Perfect video and I appreciate it. Question: what if the spark plug seals put in backwards, would this cause an issue?
Yeah that seals is most likely gonna leak into the spark plug tubes
Great video!!!!! I am using this video to further explain things concerning my 2007 Highlander with the 3.3L engine. The other videos concerning my Highlander are missing some cool details that you mention in your video. Thanks so much!!!
Wow... excellent work!
✌😀
I can change the oil , air filter, cabin filter and swap out the battery and that's it
😀🚙
That’s awesome that you can take care of all the basics stuff.
Well. You are better off than most of the new generation.
I"ve got 141K on my Sienna with a leaky front cover. I'm assuming it would be smart to do timing belt, water pump, cam seals, valve cover gaskets and plugs all at the same time...right? Previous maintenance is up to date.
BRIAN, Good video and info the step by step you showed is really helpful to who ever want to do this job by himself great hand own teaching thanks for sharing. cheeeeeers
j georges thank you!
Extremely helpful video, thanks for taking the time. On the same engine have you ever done the intake cam gears for the vvti? My 2006 is noisy and not getting the same Mileage as before. I was told it won’t hurt anything important but I recently had to replace both cat converters and I think that was the reason. Is it worth doing and do you have any tips?
I have this engine in my camry, very helpful, but did you drain the oil first jw or is that how it looks? Just asking so I know what to do lol
No wonder mechanics charge an arm and a leg to replace the back valve cover gasket. I need to replace mine in my 2000 sienna but hell if I can afford it right now. My hat's off to the mechanics of this country.
Great video! Used it this week to do the job. Thank you!
Is the blue gasket supposed to be exposed after tightening the cover bolts? Can there be a leak if tighten too tight?
any suggestions on removing stripped 6 e torx studs? btw very well edited.
this new coil on the middle front - is it a typical problem for 2004 siennas?
for the gaskets that go in the holes for the spark plugs are they installed correctly in the video or are they inside out?
That's what I was wondering, I'm pretty sure he replaced them upside down.
@@straypussy After doing it myself, I noticed he did it right. It looks wrong, but it's right. You'll have to press the cover on when you put it back together, so the spark plugs tube slide into the rubber gaskets. Awesome video! (p.s., I tried them both ways and it cost me another gasket set =/ )
Hi Brian, thank you for the video. What type of silicone are you using? Permatex black silicone package is showing not to be used for gasketing.
how do you suggest keeping all the bolts and nuts separate as each part is removed? any mechanic tips?
I'm a diy'er, not a mechanic. But I'd recommend labeled Ziploc bags and or a few magnetic trays.
I take a piece of cardboard and sketch the part I'm working on... such as a valve cover. Then I push the bolts through it one at a time as i remove them into the matching spots on my drawing. This helps holds the bolts in place and is especially helpful when a part has several bolts of different lengths and sizes.
the vacuum line diagram sticker is on the cowl..
the high pressure line is held on to the surge tank also, - one nut is on the tank ( you must take this off to access the starboard side upper brace bolt in the rear)
other than that thanks!!
Hey, boss, I am trying to locate and replace the camshaft position sensor (engine code, P0345). Could you point me to the right direction?
I know that this is 4 years old but I am unable to remove those E6 stud bolts that are on the front cover. I think i stripped one of them and have not tried the other. I just sprayed some PB blaster hoping it will loosen up any rust and try again. I don't know why couldn't be just regular bolts. The ones you were working on came off so quickly.
Is the process similar and as difficult with the 3.5L engine?
Great video as these videos go. If you could do a timing belt with water pump(same year range) etc..would be great as there are videos but not a clear step by step like this..
Brother, You mde that look easier than it was. Took me a whole day and legs and back are súper sore
@@franciscoenciso435 the power of editing made it look simple. Definitely a tough job. Thank you for watching!
I did mine with your advise thank you so much! 2008 Sienna.
Awesome glad the video was able to help. Thank you for washing!
Julio from trujillo A. PR. , I have to a sienna 08 is 3.5L, I am amateur some skills mec. DIY, weekens, I wonder if can do it, on 2 or 3 days resting, alternating day
@@orlandoortiz689 Saludos Bro, Yo soy diabetico y con un poco de todo, yo lo ize poco a poco y sin saber nada de mechanica.
Este video me ayudo mucho!
Lo logre hacer pero me tomo mucho tiempo, graciasca Dios estoy retirado.
No te voy a decir que es facil pues no lo es, yo tenia que acostarme encima del motor muchas vezes y casi no hay espacio para las manos. Yo decidi arreglarlo yo mismo pues donde quiera cobraban mucho dinero por ello.
Trata de hacerlo debajo de sombra y con paciencia y lo lograras.
That rear valve cover is not easy! Been working on cars for 10 years and valve covers and plugs and coils took me 4 in a half hours.
Great video, I am stick on getting the wiring harness out, I stopped and put everything back together. Any idea on what to due if the e bolts stripped?
Leave it in
I stripped the e bolt on the front valve cover that holds the ignition coil harness (near the radiator side) and was able to use locking plier to remove it. Just make sure to spray some kroil on any bolts that havent been removed in a while before removing them
I have a 2008 Toyota sienna XLe 3.5 2GR-FE engine. Does this video corresponds with my vehicle?
Hi Brian, When I replaced my front valve cover gaskets and spark plugs on my 08 Sienna I noticed that all 3 sparkplugs were coated in motor oil, I had to remove the spark plug tubes (No easy task) and fixed the leaks. I'm wondering how to do this in the rear bank of the motor where there is barely any space, if those tubes are leaking as well, do you have any advise on this? Thank you for this video!!
Is that not from the tube seals? The round ones on the top. That's supposed to seal the tube and keep oil out of the plugs.
Chk pcv valve. Oil into spark chamber means pressure in valve cover was way too high. It could be bad seal on spark hole though.
@@jmo6688 Thank you!
Hey question I have a toothache 2004. With a 157 miles, it does lose and power very badly. When I'm driving, what could be the problem? Could it be the transmission or could it be the senses?
You skipped the removal of the 3 studs that hold the 4mm Allen nuts which hold the front of the engine cover. Do those go through the valve cover? What if they won’t come out? Mine broke off. What then?
Just did this a few days ago. What a pain I had with that wiring harness, it's super tight and difficult to maneuver around. 1st try, the gasket came off in the rear, took me a few tries to jam it in there. Just wanted to search and see if it really is that difficult or an easier way out and found ur video. Well I'm glad I'm done and dont have to deal with it for another 100k or so. While in there, also think about replacing your coils/plugs, and pcv valve. Maybe I should of done air/fuel sensor too. It was right behind the valve cover. Oh well
Yes, I'm planning on doing this job next month and it looks like the wire harness will be the nr 1 PITA. Do you have any suggestions on best way to move it out of the way? The three 10mm nuts holding it across the top of valve cover is an easy step, but after that, then what?
@@Kielyn123 that harness is one place I remember I used some force. I didnt look around to see if I could unbolt something to loosen it up, maybe try that. Afterwards take some rope and try to tie it out the way. The main idea is to apply force so it gives you enough clearance to reinstall valve cover. I also used a mechanics mirrors to make sure gasket sealed all around the rear valve cover. Also use your hand to feel it. Be 100% sure, this is one job you dont wanna do again. Make sure to apply rtv sealant in the right spots, I believe I used a q tip to make life easier then I let it dry overnight before firing the car up. If your replacing those tube seals, that's another darn nightmare if they never were replaced since ownership because they get hard and brittle with time and break while yanking off. I had to bend a screwdriver, carefully get it in there and slowly yank them out. Did manage to make some small scratches on seating surface, but that okay, wasnt too bad and no leaks ever since.
@@Kendkend thank you
Cover bolts go to 8nm or 69 in lbs.
I do plugs and coils also.
Good video.
is this the same procedure for lexus rx330?
Yes it’s the same 👍
@@HowtoAutomotive were you able to replacing everything without removing windshield assembly?
ThE sToRy Of My LiFe you will need to remove the wiper motor and trey. The rest is the same.
If you gentlemen want to get the valve covers really clean with no effort at all , spray them with oven cleaner. You will be amazed at how clean they will get... Remember follow the instructions on the can of cleaner... GB
Great video! I think that cylinder 4 has an issue, I replaced mine on my 2005 Sienna, too! luckily is in the front.
I really wanted to fix my uncles 2000 toyota sienna valve cover gaskets front and back! But i couldnt find any videos that could help me! 😫
Oil is leaking front and back! I hope its not the headgasket
Why I love 4 cylinder cars.
Looks like I won't be checking the gaskets while looking at a used vehicle to buy hahaha! Bookmarking the video in case I do end up with a Sienna though. Great job!
saralynn518 well hopefully you won’t need the video. Thank you for watching!
Damn. Too much work for the rear!!! I replace my spark plugs less than a year ago and it took forever for the rear. Now thiss... COME ON TOYOTA!!
Yeah imma get a 4cyl next time.
At least you can remove the rear panel, some manufacturer's don't even give you that on v6 equipped vans.
They were definitely smokin something when creating this lol
It'll make this video better if you correct the title to 2004-2006, because Sienna in 2007 got the newer 3.5 2GR-FE engine which is slightly different.
Is it any different on the 3.5L Siennas? Who makes the best Gasket set these days, FEL PRO still? which silicone set with plug seals for an 07 Sienna LE 3.5L would you go with? Also, what is your fav spark plug for the Sienna? The OEM toyota denso or The NGK laser Iradium, or the NGK Iradium IX? I'm looking for the best Sparkplug so I don't have to rip apart this van again anytime soon...It's hot as hell in Florida. Awesome vids man, Thank you in advance.
Hi Iike to own that power tools you use to remove the volt can you tell me how many watts, volts, or torque I'm want to get exactly the one you use I never own a powertools before thanks
Robert Downey If you click the down arrow in the description of the video there are links for all the tools that I used in this video.
how long did the process take you total?
get the matco, 6" extended head ratchet, its amazing bro, the 1/4" and 3/8, got em both
Any particular reason you didn't use OE gaskets and seals from Toyota?
why do they need to use that e6 for the wiring harness....why not just regular bolt?
Thanks for this video it really helped ❤