this is the best auto video i have ever seen. Logical analysi;, not pushing people to accept certain concept; and nice, comfortable pace, comparing with rushing tone of most youtuber nowadays. Thanks for sharing this knowledge!
Out of all the oil videos I have observed, including the ones from the mfg's by far, by far this one makes the most sense to me. Thank you for your video
It's been a great car, most of the original Toyota parts lasted 40 years. The aftermarket stuff, water pumps, fuel pump, starters etc., seem to go out every year or two now.
+IcantSignIn True, aftermarket cheap parts don't last - Reliance alternators, starters are example, but even current production parts often don't last as some in cars made 20-30 ago.
Chapeau to you sire. Yeah the delfi and other like parts manufacturers leave a lot to be desired. My 88 Civic DX alternator just stopped charging at 315k and just rebuilt than risk putting a Denso made in Taiwan part as replacement.
This is one of the most useful posts on motor oil I have seen in a long time given how much discussion there has been on the topic over the years. The most helpful point here for me was Mark's comments on oil pressure, which is seldom addressed as a factor in oil performance. I have noticed pressure as an issue in everything from my Acura Integra 5 speed to my Buick 3800 V6 (yes, I hear the laughter! ). Each of these cars are obviously polar opposites for the driving style they invite and yet each one was impacted by a change in oil viscosity specs. My mechanic once changed the Acura's oil with 5/w20 and it did not perform as well in summer as with the 5w30 it was spec'd for. (Engine temps averaged much higher). On the other side, the Buick, with its butter smooth (albeit ancient) pushrod design that heralded from the early 60's did not tolerate 5w30 in winter temp even though GM had 'updated' the engine's oil spec to include 5w30 use in winter for MPG reasons. I believe my experience with the poor performance with 5w30 was due to much wider tolerances for things like bearings which resulted in 'rattling' on startup and over consumption of oil between OCI's. With the change back to 10w30 year round, the 3800 was and is a very happy engine with no oil loss between changes. Both cars have full service histories of which I'm very familiar. My point here is that the way an engine is designed and the way its driven can have remarkable impact on oil pressure/oil viscosity performance and needs. The fact that pressure, temperature, driving demands, and viscosities are variables in such dramatically different cars as those I drive supports Mark's contention about viscosity and pressure. Thank you for the insightful video!
Just a general comment concerning your whole channel. Mark I think this is one of the best car channels on youtube. I stumbled on it a few days ago and can't stop watching. You can go to some channels and get a 435 point break down of the exact composition of the polymer used for the left break light housing but somehow something is lacking. Other channels have the reviewer giving his impression of the car but somehow every car ends up being “awesome” or “terrible” they all just kind of blend together. You have somehow nailed the perfect middle ground. Entertaining videos where you have clearly done legit research but you're able to actually get across to the viewer something special - a real sense of feel for the car. I’m not exactly sure how you do it so well but after watching you review a car I legit feel like I took it on a test drive. The way you describe things in a clear succinct way just makes sense. Also your relationship with Turbowksi is really compelling to me. You guys can go from the 8th grade humor of a quick dry hump while the other isn’t looking to a fairly deep conversation about the cars you’re reviewing. I think it’s cool to watch because you both seem like real people. Anyway, really love the channel, thanks!
This is a really great video and I can underline everything say! Thanks for that! I personally (living in Germany) use 0W40 in winter and 5W40 in summer. I don't own a sports car that a xW60 would be needed. But also, I wouldn't go below xW40 - at least with turbo motors. I rather have a "thicker" oil that is more protective than a super-thin oil that might save me 0,0000001 liters per tank.
Ich bins i am livin in the netherlands. But what you are doin is not that important because germany never gets that coolld or warm. Just stick with a good brand oil on 0w30 or 5w30. I dont know which car you have but see manufacturer recommendations for the right oil the coding is like vw. 504 & 507 and 502 & 505. Be careful what you use and als have in mind if youre using mobil 1 0w40 its not a fully synthetich oil.
Yes fully synthetic oils even the expensive ester based ones generally have some mineral oil content, and top grade mineral oils will have some synthetic in the blend. Even the cheapest supermarket own brand "synthetic" oils which are based on the cheaper group 3 feed stock are 10 times better than old style mineral oils. Where you have to be very careful is with modern VW, BMW and Mercedes with greatly extended service intervals or any GDi or VW Diesel with Pumpe Duse.
If their was no wear material in the 0w20 I would say it's ok. The only way to truly know what the oil pressure is doing it to put an oil pressure gauge on the car. No point guessing.
+Andrew W MacFadyen I do not follow the extended oil change intervals, nor the computer calculation of oil life left. I seen a couple very expensive engines that are finished and just to sleep at night I rather change it more often and spend a couple bucks more a year than to deal with blue smoke from the tail pipe - simply I do not believe in 20,000 km oil change intervals.
You're the first one I've heard to have some intelligence to oil. While I am an american car guy through and through I can respect and appreciate the fact that you know what happens to oil when it gets hot and you sir have a new subscriber.
In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the "W" number the better the oil's cold temperature/cold start performance.
wow.....even for someone as hard-headed as me, that funnel experiment really cleared the dust in my eyes about the different applications of oil. Great video.
In addition to squeezing through tight gaps, another hazard of thick oil is intake cavitation in the front side of the pump. You can sometimes see the wear it creates: it literally forces the metal to flake out, creating pitting.
Pete Zaitcev I wasn't aware of this in any engine oil pump situations. I would think the cold-temperature time is too small for any appreciable cavitation damage. I know in continual operation water pumping systems it is absolutely an issue. Have you seen this happen with oil pumps?
i use Amzoil 10w 40 synthetic 15000 mile here in the Caribbean and i change my oil at 7500 miles, before i was using a higher viscosity which was causing my oil pressure switch to go bad and leak every month
Great video. Up here in Quebec where temperatures can range from -30F to 100F I run Mobile 1 0w 40 year round. '12 BMW X1 '08 BMW 328 '05 911. Two track days a year with the Porsche. Oil change intervals vary. The X1 is a daily and I travel 30,000 miles / yr so I replace the oil every 10k. The 328 are out only 8 months / yr only travel 4000 miles/yr so I change once a year (prevent moisture build up). You can hear the difference when starting a car in cold temperatures with proper thin oil.
The weight spec has a range. For example, all 5w30 oils fall into a specific range in order to be called a 5w30 in the first place. Well, there's two specs, the 5 and then the 30. It's easiest to think of the 5 as the cold weight or the weight of the base oil. The 30 is the hot viscosity equivalent or effectively the result of the additive package's ability to keep the oil from thinning out as fast when temps rise. For example a 5w30 and 5w40 may have the same base oil but different additive packages to make one thin out a little slower than the other at higher temps. The 5w30 is effectively a straight 5 weight oil cold, but it mimics a straight 30 weight oil when hot and can do so only because of the additive package used. The weight values are a spec. There's a scale and a 0 weight has a certain range, a 5 weight has a certain range above that, a 10 weight a range above the 5, and so on. There's a spec at the cold rating (32F/0C) and a spec at the hot rating (212F/100C). To be called a 5 weight, the oil has to be within the spec range. If it was formulated differently and ended up thicker, it would be called a 10 weight instead. In this sense, ALL 5w30s are the same (near the same) at 32F/0C and at 212F/100C ratings. However, they are NOT the same below 32F/0C and above 212F/100C. This is where the actual oils and additive packages different. Some manufacturers have other specs beyond these two ratings. In some cases you can find a viscosity rating at -40F/-40C. You also have a separate rating called a Pour Point which defines the coldest temp the oil is still pourable. By pourable, there's a certain spec of flow rate, sort of like what was done with the funnel and jar in this video. To still be considered "pourable" it would require at least a certain level of flow. Once it falls below this rate, that's its limit. Generally you will see two broad ranges. One is old fashioned petroleum oil (dino) which has a pour rating of around -35F give or take some. The other is synthetic oils. These tend to have a Pour Point of around -50F to -60F, as it they flow better colder than petroleum based oils, even at the same rated viscosity. In general, any oil with a milder additive package flows better colder. A 0w20 will flow better colder than a 0w30. You will generally find the Pour Point to be lower and the viscosity at -40F/-40C (if given) to be lower (flow better). As well, you will also generally find a higher base weight to have better high temp performance, so a 10w50 with stay a little thicker hotter than a 5w50 would. There's very little data on this aspect though, no real specs, and only some graph data floating around drawing more extended curves vs temp. You will basically always find synthetic oils to be superior for both function and protection. They are also cleaner oils with less natural contaminants. The research out there basically says it's no contest here. Synthetics are the champs hands down. The only time you can't use a synthetic is if you're breaking in a new engine because it protects too well for the break in procedure. Also, as you may have suspected, an oil like a 0w40 is a better all-arounder than a 10w40 or 0w20. These super oils that cover the wide spectrum are kind of the do it all oil that can handle both extreme cold and extreme heat. You can get as wide of a spectrum as a 0w50 or a 5w60, and these cover the range extremely well. This means you can buy something like a synthetic 0w40 and get outstanding winter performance, great cold startup, and still have excellent high temp performance. Two things to note, generally speaking. Thin oil flows high volume. High volume flow means great cooling. Thick oil offers higher protection from metal on metal contact. At the same time, the engine design and clearances between parts defines flow rate and oil pressure. As was pointed out in the video, you can go too thin and loose oil pressure. You may need a higher performance oil pump to compensate. There is a balance in between protection and cooling that oil must do. If you go too thick, you may find that the flow volume is not there, and you may get heat build up in parts of the motor due to low flow and lack of oil collecting and evacuating that heat away. I have not seem much for data on this stuff personally, so I can't comment on specifics. Just understand that some of the recommendation of the oil viscosity is based on the balance of the two aspects. It's just a very fuzzy area for consumers because there is very little test data. Most of the knowledge seems stuck at the manufacturers.
Thanks, right back at you for making hell of a great video. I love these types of discussions. Reviewing cars is only one part of the automotive world. There's a massive amount of technical content as well and a lot to learn. Jason from Engineering Explained has gained a lot of popularity tapping into this portion of the car enthusiast world. He's a smart guy but also a novice in a lot of ways, researching and learning along the way in order to present interesting content. He isn't coming from high experience though, so the presentation is different. You've gained quite a bit of knowledge from your own passions and interests, so I'm happy to see you formulating some of that acquired knowledge into consumable bits. I especially value the high level of experience. This brings a lot of insight and wisdom into the discussion, even discussion tailored towards a casual viewer. A great example is Randy Pobst on the Racing Line from Motor Trend. There too is a high level of experience, high knowledge content, and a presentation that's extremely insightful and informative without being overly complex and alienating to the consumer. You brought the same level to this video, and that was wonderful, very well done. I'd love to see more topics covered. You've hinted at one in the video: tires. Ideas could be more abstract too, for example discussing the ideal seating position or discussing what fundamentals make a car fun to drive. Some of this stuff you think about on every single car review and use it as part of your evaluation and discussion, but it's these things that can actually be their own discussion topics too. Keep up the good work on everything you do. I know you work hard squeezing this stuff into your already full life, so I very much appreciate that you take the time to create for others.
Wow Xmvw2X. That is one of the best written explanations of oil viscosity I've ever seen. You hit the points on stuff that is technical and still managed to keep it understandable for someone who may be new to this. Kudos.
Great video! Out here in Phoenix, I run various viscosity oils based upon "usage". (As you mention.) What really helps is a "real" oil pressure gauge. ('94 Miata has one, thank you.) So in the summer, I'm running a "40" weight vs. "30" weight. I have seen oil temps rise just from sitting on the asphalt in traffic. It's also important to look at the age of the motor. Older engines often require more viscosity as the bearing clearances increase over time. There's a whole-lot-more to motor oil than the average consumer understands. Thanks for another informative video!!
Full synthetic oils can last up to 15k miles without significant breakdown. However, the oil does become contaminated with combustion products and material from engine components which basically turns it into liquid sandpaper. Running your oil for more than 6-7k miles is asking for trouble. I change mine every 5k and run full synthetic.
+MarzNet256 Have you ever sent your oil to a lab to confirm that? Because modern filters and oils do am amazing job at encapsulating debris along with modern motors having less issues with creating by products. As posted in the video at 15k miles on a oem oil it had more than enough life left and the filter was in excellent condition as well. I am with you I would not do it but running less than 10k miles on modern motors, group 5 oils with good filters is throwing money away.
Those are 1980-1990 type of oil changes. No oil / car manufacturer in their right might would claim 15k if wasn't possible, and engines have much lower tolerances today than 20-30 years ago. Of course it's a good idea to use the dip stick more than once a year to confirm how things are going down there, might need a squirt or two at some point which is far more dangerous to miss out on. Top-spec specific oil is hellish expensive (it's a brand tax issue mostly), so I've done 10k mostly before (one year limit) and 18k oil changes the last two (added driving, still one year) and will continue to do just that. Only 95k miles on the car so it absolutely shouldn't burn oil which it doesn't. But reading oil comments means my engine should behave like an old diesel running on bunker fuel which is also...not the case.
MarzNet256 Newer engines don’t have as much blow by. I change my 2016 F165 myself every 8 to 9k miles. I have a few videos, it has 44k miles. Ford say don’t go over 10k miles.
If you pay attention, to the sound of your motor, I promise you will know when to change it. Another thing is when you smear with the stick, a drop on your fingers, and try to clean it.If the black isn't coming of by rubbing it with your finger, and you can still see some shady black mark...is overdue
Thank you. This was very informative without sounding like a snob. I really appreciated the explanation of the significance of oil temperature And pressure. Now if you could do the same for differential fluid...
I had a vw bug that wouldnt turn over in winter, but when i parked it in the garage heated it up started it then drained the oil changed it with winter grade oil it ran like a champ, was one of the few cars in town that would be on the road in below zero weather, and cured lots of cabin fever
i live in north east montana.... -40f is common my 99 buick century calls for 5w-30.....and i run that in the summer but 0w-30 is MUCH better in the winter....you can just hear the motor and lifters make less noise on a TRUE cold start i also change it as soon as the oil change light comes on......i know im probably wasting money.... but it has 205K miles on it.....ill spend 25 bucks to change it before it ever gets CLOSE to actually needing to be changed and at that mileage....things are probably wearing out quicker anyway.... might as well give it the best chance at hitting 300k
How do you know what oil pressure is "catastrophically low"? Toyota just specs a min.@80C. That 0w20 UOA was very good. Also 265-270F is not stupid high, but about max i would go.
+homemadeHonda Most service manuals specify normal and low oil pressures based on a given RPM. For example at normal operating temps for many motors for every 1000 RPMs youd add 10psi of pressure. So at 2000rpm 30psi, 3000RPM 40psi etc. So as oil temps climb outside of normal range you'll see pressures start to fall below spec. So on a car with a 7000rpm redline you should see 80psi. When you start seeing half the pressure it's a rule of thumb to back off or risk damage. Higher the rpm, higher risk.
@savagegeese The pressure is measured at the oil pump so if it's low it means it's flowing better. What does the pressure have to do with damage? The lab test result you showed it was good.
@@krrk6337 The specified oil pressure is the pressure measured at the sensor's location, which is typically at the pump or filter. Also oil analysis does not usually show engine damage because the particles are typically retained within the oil filter, and the only way to reliably check for engine damage is to physically examine the filtering media and the engine itself. Oil analysis is only capable of showing whether the oil still meets the specification.
I run turbodiesel oil in my boosted G35 Turbodiesel (rotella t6 5w-40) contains more zinc in it and this helps with protection... I'll also assume the oil has some kind of additive to resist coking in the turbocharger Thanks for the video
You will destroy that engine sir. Rotella is not that good. More zinc doesnt = better protection as well.. Better oil = better protection. You should use 5w30 Signature Amsoil. 5w40 if you track, HARD. If you have hours to read, google Rat540 engineer pro. Best of luck.
for my old lexus ..it says to use 5w30..but in very cold climates i always switch to 0W30 (just for winter months) and i think only mobil1 brand sell it
Good choice. I switched to a 0w-40 for my 4 cylinder BMW. It runs just right now. Amsoil, Redline, Penrite, HPL, and Motul make the 0w weights. May be a few more.
I don't know how old your Lexus is but it likely says 5W instead of 0W because 0W wasn't available when your car was made. When OW-30 became available I started using it in my 1996 Honda Accord Wagon which called for 10W-30. Never had any engine problems when we let it go to our son about 3 years ago with nearly 200,000 miles. Still used no oil between 7,500 mile oil changes. It is available in many brands.
@ Engine temperature... So when you start the car in the morning the engine temperature is the same as the ambient temperature and the high engine temperature is dependent on the thermostat's rating (usually around 185°F.).
Go to AutoZone and pick up one of there deals with oil and specific brand oil filter. Then tell them you have a car that they don't have a filter for. Tell them you still want to pay the "sale" price.
@Steve H. Penzzoil ultra platinum is better in cleaning ability, wear tests (with a proper additive -> its dervide from natural gas so is more compatible with additives), and oil flow rates (natural gas is thinner and flows easily, including in cold temp). amsoil is fantastic oil, the signature series is probably the best on the market BUT grade 3 mineral oils like Pennzoil ultra do have benefits over grade 4 PAOs like Amsoil...such as what I listed.
@@ffagilar22451 they're probably going to ask what year make and model the car is. 2 the sale is while supplies last at the time period the sale's running. meaning you can tell them whatever you want, it's not going to mean fuck all.
Hey @savagegeese, at 4:59 the flashpoint for 50w oil is lower than 20w oil. I would have assumed the 50w oil is more robust against high temperatures than a lower weight oil. Why do you think this is the case? Similarly, at 40 degrees celsius the 0w-50 is significantly more viscous than the 5w-30. If we were to assume the same at frigid temperatures, would a 5w-30 perform better at -40 degrees cold start up than a 0w-50?
If you live in a cold climate with M3 and you don't want to switch oil's like an idiot between summer and winter: I would recommend installing auxiliary fuel heater (optional extra for BMW-s) or cheaper option is electric block heater. You warm the engine up in the winter to room temperature before starting. Never start 10W60 in very cold weather without preheat. Even if "I really need to buy a burger" scenario happens.
I stumbled on this video via the Corvette Forum ~ Happy I watched it. Very practical, educated and insightful oil observations. I'm also a firm believer in Oil Analysis. Well done Sir! I'll be subscribing to this channel for sure! ;-)
O.K. Dumb question ; I'm in Florida and a (long) retired auto mechanic and fire truck builder. My 2013 Hyundai Sonata (for example) recommends 5w20 on the oil cap. However, the owners manual (and dealer service dept.) recommends 5w30 or 10w30 in hotter climates. The dealer uses 5w30 so that's what I use (synthetic) and still change it every 3,000 miles (very old school) . My friends 2012 Scion tc says 0w20 AND NOTHING ELSE. I don't want to go against mfr recommendations but is 0w20 (synthetic) too thin for a hot climate like Florida? And would an additive like Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer help?
+Shepperd November Is your Sonata turbo? For Forida no reason to run a 0w20. You can run 5w30 and that will give you better upper end viscosity while balancing cold start performance. If you do a lot of driving, idling and tons of summer driving with turbo then 10w30 just ups your high end viscosity even more. Just takes more time to get up to temp.
savagegeese No , it's not a turbo. I do A LOT of highway driving . What about the Scion? Toyota say 0w20 regardless of climate. But I believe it's too thin for Florida. What say you?
Shepperd November, do not go a normal weight above manufacturer recommended. Just buy a better oil that maintains its rated viscosity at very high temperatures.
Shepperd November, this is for warranty and piece of mind. I live in Miami and I use Pennzoil Ultra platinum and I signed up for the Penzoil 500,000 miles warranty. I keep all my receipts. If anything were to happen no one can say I didn't go by the manufacturer recommendation.
That 0w 20 engine oil sample shows that it's fine to run the engine for track days. When you say that it's not good due to the low pressure flow in the engine I get that part but if it's going to skim the metals wouldn't that show up as the metal particles would show in the oil analysis?
wow, was completely expecting you to give some bullshit advice to the point I actually put off watching this episode. Very glad to be wrong. I appreciate that you stayed away from the brand banter and focused on the actual important aspect of spec'ing an oil, the intended usage and operating temperatures (ambient and engine).
savagegeese hilarious. I’m 38 and my first car was a 1989 Chevy 5 speed Barretta then 1980 Chevy Monte Carlo 78 El Camino 78 Malibu Classic 2 door 1980 Chevy c-10 1979chevy c10 1978 Chevy c10 big ten I have always had classic Chevy style cars And I just don’t understand how and why these kids think a rice burner is something cool 😎 I never thought any of those were cool except the old Acura vigor And the original crx. These kids don’t understand what driving is or owning a car till you have a older Chevy with a 350 motor It makes you realize the reality around you better A Chevy 350 can bring clarity to a adolescent life Maybe even make these millennials stop whining and grow some testosterone like their grandfather had
savagegeese you should do a video on how older cars where designed better in regards to strength , quality , durability,simple design , user friendly consumer friendly repairs and maintenance (cost) and longevity compared to modern cars life spans and throw away vehicles and our throw away society as a whole - tie in with consumerism on your newer video on “two things new cars are terrible because of “ That could be about a two hour video Also the comparison of prices then and now with inflation taken into consideration
Another thing I've noticed (in Australia) looking up the right oil online or at the shop gives you X spec. Looking in the OEM manual will give you a temp chart and recommended viscocities, when we have a climate that fluctuates from sub zero to over 40deg C there's usually 3 different grades that are recommended. There is no one size fits all. I guess the US would have a similar temperature fluctuations.
My Porsche Cayenne V8 uses 0w40 Mobil 1 from the factory. They also say it's a 20,000 mile interval. It's redline is 6500 rpm which is high for a V8. The Porsche has dry dump lubrication and in addition to a coolant temperature it has oil temperature gauge so I guess at the track I'd know if I'm frying the oil, right?
That's nice it has an oil temperature gauge. My car doesn't, but I don't track it so no big deal. Your Porsche probably has an oil pressure gauge as well. You will know you're frying the oil when the pressure drops off, just like it was explained in this video. While this information is good to know, your Porsche will give you a warning indication if the oil temp or pressure goes out of operating range. It might even limit the power output to make sure nothing is damaged. This information is absolutely necessary if your car doesn't have these fail safes and is a track vehicle. As for the 20,000 mile interval. I have my own opinion on that. I personally think it's too high. Yes, the oil itself can probably take it, but the oil filter still needs to be changed. The filter can still get clogged and cause flow and pressure problems, but your Porsche's ECM is monitoring pressure and would warn you if it drops. And it's a dry "sump" lubrication system
iVlog I place 0w-40 in my 2012 Z06 for Daily and Track duty. It'll see 250-270° oil temps and my pressure has always been good. Few Corvette members have sent in their oil for analysis after track days and it's always come back good for the Mobile 1 0w-40. The Z06 also has a dry sump system and also redlines up to 7000.
Thats good to know Joszer, how many miles/duty hours are you guys seeing between changes and do you use a chemical flush also. I didn't realise that Z06 had a dry sump lube system, its great to know as it was something I had considered quite a while ago. What year did GM introduce dry sump and is it also on the Camaro?
I usually do about 4 track days before swapping out the oil. That equates to about ~2000 miles of hard driving. That factors in the mileage to the track and back since it's about 150 each way for me. I just do a simple drain and fill, no chemical flush at all. Also as far as I am aware (& after after a few minutes of googling) only the 2013-2014 Camaro Z28 and the new 2017+ Camaro ZL1's have dry sumps. All the others have a conventional wet sump systems.
One thing that’s really important to note on the synthetic oil‘s that say they can run for 10,000 miles say that it’s only for newer cars with low mileage Auto/oil manufacturers warn people not to go 10,000 mile on a oil change on a older ,worn/highmileageengine A lot of people have older cars and they’re trying to save money and they put this oil in and they get rid knock and valve noise and can’t figure out why Even in my buddies 2019 jeep says do not go over 3000 miles on a oil change All my Nissan manuals say nothing you can put in your engine will restore it and to only change your oil every 3000 miles So I honestly think the one year/15,000 Mile oil change is a bs
M&R Tuning yes because it’s not sealed oil in gearbox. It’s oil mixing with water and particulate matter and fuel, depending on the car, location, and use. Good point
In the winter, using lower viscosity than suggested, I would be worried about the low viscosity after the engine warmed up. I know the oil would be thick for the first 5 minutes but after that then what? Wouldn't it then become too thin? Would I rather start the car with to high of viscosity or run for miles with too low a viscosity? In the winter, I would go my manufacturers suggestion but on the track, I understand what your saying. Thanks for the video.
So I live in a tropical climate where it never gets cold... I have a 1997 Mercedes e420 with 87K miles on original engine which I bought about a year ago and now daily drive. What oil weight should I use? I have always stuck with 10W30, not understanding the viscosity rating. Since it never gets cold here, should I run a higher weight? Like 10W50? Any input would be helpful. I appreciate the full breakdown (no pun intended) in the video... and now know what to run in cold climates.
Yes, there are so many car myths and the story I'm about to tell you should not be taken too lightly. I remember one time I went to the gas station and accidentally put diesel 3/4 into the gas tank. My car was a high performance stock Honda Civic Si with the aerodynamics package (while the package didn't increase horsepower, from my understanding, it made my car a knife in the wind which was the equivalent to adding 90 horsepower to the wheel). Needless to say I was worried that I wouldn't be able to race a Toyota Corolla in a hour or two. However, it wasn't just any Corolla but the Corolla-S. Luckily, I called my friend Bryan, and he told me to just fell up the rest of the tank with water but make sure I used Kentwood water because it has special additives. Unfortunately, I didn't listen and instead used Dasani Strawberry Flavored Water (it was the only water on sale). When I turned on the car I noticed right away the additional horsepower the engine created from the loud noises coming from the block itself. I knew immediately that the potential of my large block DOHC 2.0 inline-4 with the K&N air filter had been unleashed. When I showed up to race the Corolla-S, I revved up my engine and people were starring because of the fire emanating from the Honda exhaust system. The driver of the Corolla-S was so scarred that he was crying (he knew he was defeated). The race began and my special fuel mixture with additives produced so much horsepower out of the K20 engine that it lit both the engine and exhaust on fire. I beat the Corolla-S for the 1st 30 feet but after that my car just disintegrated, literally. I learned that day one of the greatest car myths ever: when mixing diesel fuel + water, to substitute for gas, you must use Kentwood mineral water because of the additives. It's been 2 years since that epic race and I should be getting out of the hospital soon due to the 3rd degrees burns I experienced from my car blowing up that day. I'm ready to start driving again. This time, when I'm ready to race, I will know the proper diesel fuel + water to add to my car. I will keep everyone posted. OK, thanks.
Super review on Motor Oil, this is getting close to 300K view, WOW. My 2 cents on this topic, I am 68 years old and I got my first car @ 16 living in Montreal. I have been researching Motor Oil each time I get a different car. I first used synthetic motor oil in 1977 in a VW Rabit . What I have learned is that Synthetic 0W-30 of top quality ACEA A3 B4 for an older motor and 0W-30 ACEA A5 B5 (fuel efficient) for cars not older than 10 years. At the present I drive a Volvo T5 and use 0w-30 A5 B5 as recommended by Volvo. My background is Engineering.
you just confirmed my thoughts on oil.. glad to know I'm not the only one.. I figured this out when I started driving. but was not sure.. it all just make sense thanks bruther!
Great video! Q: in the BRZ example of racing on the track with thin oil, wouldn’t the bearing damage have shown up on the oil report? I know the before/after viscosity was mentioned but what about the metals.
yeah seriously though surely 0-40 makes sense in nearly all applications. if the oil is changed frequently enough as to ensure the additive package hasn't failed at maintaining the viscosity at higher temps, why wouldn't you use this oil in an regular or performance road car? Guys?
If I am not mistaken, the number before the "W" refers to the kinematic viscosity at 40C which isn't very cold at all. And the number after the dash refers to the kinematic viscosity at 100C. Two data points and the rest of the curve could vastly differ between two oils of the same rating. Looking at pour point is a decent way to understand what happens when it is really cold and you will see big differences among oils there. My favorite oil for year round use in performance applications is the so-called "German Castrol" 0W-30. I have had good luck with it in my CTS-V up to 285F oil temps and it is awesome in the very cold, too. Just a great oil. I also like it in the GM Northstar as well as the old small block. There are other great oils like this but also keep in mind I am using it in engines that mostly center around 5W-30 as their original viscosity requirement.
Thanks for the video, but I'm not sure why this is such a hard thing to understand. If the owner's manual is well written, it will give owner's a choice of oil viscosity (weight) to use based on condition, i.e. temperature, such as our Nissan Pathfinder's manual does. It says that 10w-30 or 10w-40 may be used if ambient temp is 0*F - 100*F+; however, they (Nissan) say 5w-30 is preferred for ALL ambient temps (page 9-7 of owner's manual)...it has seen 5w-30 synthetic at every oil change...when in AK, everyone put oil & trans pan heaters on their cars to "help" the fluids stay warmer so they would reach the important parts faster....at -30*F, you don't want thick oil...actually, you don't want to be outside, but that is a different story. I'm hoping in the winter/extreme cold, that people aren't tracking their cars, but I guess you could ice race, but then, why would you use a $50K streetcar? What does Porsche run in their cars during their winter driving events? Simple - use oil that meets spec, meets MFG's recommendations, and matches the conditions you are driving in...still not sure why this is hard to understand.
Yes, an 04 R50 3.5v6 se awd...I extend the oil change interval out to 5k miles despite the book telling me 3750miles...it doesn't see towing or stop&go traffic
Andres Hernandez usually mobil1 5w30 w/standard dealer filter...again, truck is garaged, doesn't tow and sees 50/50 mix hwy/city...I'm not too worried about extreme driving conditions here in central OH
+K03sport Its mostly because people only follow whats on the cap. And the concept of deviating even if its best is foreign to most. I have been shocked by what I see at track events, online and just lack of overall knowledge including that from tuners on the topic.
Thank you for doing this video. I plan on pouring out my oil on a bitterly cold morning and seeing how thick it is. Will German Castrol 0w40 turn into sludge at 40*F? I doubt it. I'm actually wondering how it changes at higher temps. I like to go on brisk mountain drives and keep the GTI's engine on the boil for extended periods. Perhaps when the weather gets more like Spring/Summer I should go with something a bit thicker? Figuring out starting conditions seems a lot easier than figuring out operating conditions.
+Candice Juliano Shooting 0w40 should be excellent in cold with no issues. Unless you are in the Tundra then switch to 0w20/30. The only problem with 0w oils is it compromises the viscosity at higher temps. So it will be thinner at 220F than the same brands 5w40 which I did not mention. But unless you are seeing 240F+ in summer then 0w40 should be gold, I mean if it was very hot all the time you could go to 5w40 10w40 or even 0w50. Just depends on your climate and oil temps. Make sense?
savagegeese It does, thank you. The problem with oil discussions and info out there is that it lacks basic explanations that suffice for those who do not want to split hair but want to make informed decisions. This pairs well with your M3 review, as seeing that 20W oil and the insane bearing clearances in your M3 really illustrates the axiom that most wear on engines happens on startup. In my case, it's just the lack of an oil cooler that gives me pause. I will now be testing a summer oil with higher hot viscosity when Temps rise.
something1random23 seriously! This guy has one of the most disturbed voices , it seems that he is allways complaining about world hunger. Jezus. We are just talking about cars here people...
You have amazingly useful information with conclusions. You, Engineering Explained, DailyDriver, and Wrxfan, only people that provide tangible pleasant super informed videos.
You missed everything important in this video.You and I have the same car, though you live in a place where the ambient weather temperature is 3 Celsius at night, and 15C during the day.. I live in a place where the ambient weather is 24C at night and 48C during the day with heavy duty usage. No way the engine would tolerate the same oil rating as yours.
Its not a theory and please don't throw words online without any background knowledge, someone would might read your comment and ends up fucking up their car. Call a major motor oil company, ask them what does the numbers on their products mean, then come back to me (they will tell you it reps celsius low and high respectively). Fun fact your engine gets cooled by radiator coolant lines beside the engine block through tunnels and passages. Fun fact #2 your engine oil temp does not show the exact temp, it goes up when there is a major problem in overheating. Plus, having a thin oil (aka designed for cool climates) won't harm an engine right away, but it degrades faster with everyday heavy usage in hot ME or Australian deserts for example much much much faster than a heavier oil for example, rendering the thin oil to lose viscosity much faster that causes problems right away. You are mistaken engine temp with oil temp. Ask yourself why does heavy duty designed cars, or cars designated for Middle Eastern markets are fitted with bigger oil cooler and added with a dedicated transmission oil cooler? Plus, dealerships over there abide by manufacturing rules and PUT HEAVIER OILS (10/20w-40/50)in their cars that are identical to the ones we see in the US markets.
Here is a question: If UOA didn't show excessive wear metals, then the data has proven that within 4k miles the oil is doing its job of protecting the engine even on track conditions. Why would you still not use the redline 0w-20 for track despite the UOA results just because your oil pressure gauge showed low pressure? Isn't the UOA the final say in actual wear regardless of other operating parameters like oil temperature and pressure?
+Yixin Guo Because low oil pressure conditions mean you dont have adequate oiling and on a track at high RPM with a motor that's not completely healthy or brand new it's a recipe for disaster. It's a cardinal sin to run a motor with low oil pressure.
BMWs don't last. I've owned 3. All had issues after 70 thousand miles. So factory recommendations from BMW don't mean shit. If Toyota says it's ok, you can take it to the bank. My F type Lexus is at 78 thousand. Not the first issue.
Savagegeese you are easily the most underrated youtuber making car videos today. Keep up the good work and your follower count will grow quickly. Please please please do a full review on the Golf R (and compare to the Focus RS).
So for a rule of thumb, how big a "jump" would you make from one oil rating to another if you were adjusting for track temps or cold temps? Like, for that FR-S, it normally runs 0W-20. For a track day, what weight of oil would you run on it? xW-30 or -40? Or even higher? And for day to day driving, is there a danger to running a higher weight oil in a car that's meant to run something as thin as 0W-20? Or conversely, how much thinner of an oil would you run in the M3 during the deep winter?
+Antenox For the FRS in summer if you track the car without forced induction You could do a 0w40 for severe duty or a 5w30 for lighter duty. Will increase cold start pressures and take longer to get up to temp but just know that and be patient. Both will keep pressures stable to around 240F. 0w40 better for 255F. Make sure you use top level synth for that.
Your analysis is right on when you tried to pour the oil into a jar when the oil is cold, it won't pour as freely as would think. This is why I don't believe in multi grade oils even though I do use it. I think it is just a come on for the oil companies to make more money. I also don't believe in 10,000 mile oil changes either. I change my oil every 3,000 miles or sooner and that includes changing the oil filter as well. This is my opinion and this is what works for me on all of my vehicles. My vehicles are older and I don't use Synthetic oils either, maybe I would if I had newer vehicles.
This would have been a lot easier for people to understand if you just explained what the two numbers mean. The first number (before the W) is the thickness/viscosity at freezing, the second number is the thickness/viscosity at operating temp. If you live in a climate where it gets cold, you need a low first number like 0 or 5. If you live somewhere like Southern California you don't need to worry about the first number.
+Nayr747 Except everyone knows that, but those 0w and and 5w numbers dont explain what happens outside the spec sheet range and thats the point. But yes for most people that are doing a-b its that simple.
I would say most people don't know that. But the people who watch dedicated car channels like this are probably a little more knowledgeable. Still I think spending 10 seconds at the start of the video on the basics would be helpful for lots of viewers.
@@ytube777 After reading all these comment I don't know. When people here mention operating temperature are they asking about the oil temperature in the engine or the coolant temperature or the cylinder head temperature? I don't know. I have gauges in my RAV4 that read coolant temperature and transmission fluid temperature but that's it. My coolant temperature is close to 185°F (85°C) once the engine is fully warmed up. My transmission operating temperature is 158°F(70°C) to 176°F(80°C) according to a Toyota service manual but sometimes it reads lower or higher.
I suppose the better response is: Why would anyone be driving a very expensive high performance RWD in shit winter conditions? I think if someone were to be doing that, they clearly are flush enough that they don't need to care much about the vehicle's longevity. I truly believe that the vast majority of "sports cars" are to feed ego. Most people never track them, and wouldn't have the skills to handle them even if they do/did.
+AK I agree with what you said, but there are plenty of those who buy second hand sports cars because they are affordable. Those same people turn them into daily drivers and rules that did not apply before suddlely do. (Not usually applicable for first owners)
Josh Lee i ordered my new brz with an engine block heater. Never had one, they sound cool. Can't wait to see my new car next month. I figured with like 12 miles on it at 14 degrees Fahrenheit, the block heater might save the break in of the motor.
Older small engines from Japanese manufacturers just wouldn't heat up unless on the hwy - my older Civic has this problem and block heater was the only solution to the problem. Also reduced fuel consumption will pay itself for block heater and hydro expenses, not to mention reduced time needed for scrubbing the iced windows and pleasure of driving a car that is not stinking cold.
@@anishannayya1 I don't drive when the weather is bad period. I don't have to because I'm retired. Every winter day is not a bad day for driving. There are plenty of sunny days with great road conditions. Of course some parts of the country are colder & snowier than others but right now it's 13°F here and expected to drop down to 4°F overnight. So, yes, it is winter. (02/14/20)
So, I drive a 2013 VW GTI in Northwest Oregon. Generally a pretty mild climate. But summers are pretty hot. The book says to run a 5W-40. What I'd your opinion on the Redlind 5W-40? If you know anything about it. It's a daily driver. And I tend to drive it pretty hard. I definitely don't baby it. I normally drive 20 miles to work. But I also drive up to the mountains, through the coastal mountains, and drive hard on the backroads.
Well,If you were " skimming bearings " metal would have shown up in the sample. Flawed thinking. Engine configuration will also effect contamination ( direct inj,carberated,port injection, turbo, rotory engine [mazda?] And than all the other things you said.
I had a vehicle that required 5w20 , in the summer I put in 5w30 to deal with the high heat over 100 degrees. when I put back in 5w20 for the winter, my suv started burning oil. conclusion = always use the factory viscosity , never deviate!
I only run Quaker state. Not because I'm a fan boy, but simply because that's what Hyundai recommends. I use 10w30 in the summer, and I plan to use 5w20 in the winter. I'm debating whether or not to use synthetic in the winter. All I do is drive 70 miles round trip to work (mostly highway), and a few smaller trips here and there.
I believe in just following the car manufacturers recommendations in the owners manual. I have a Prius currently with over 300,000 miles and it's never had any repairs. I do use a superb car maintenance program www.automotivewolf.com that tracks my maintenance schedule and notifies me when anything is due and that definitely makes a BIG difference. I just use the Toyota synthetic oil that's recommended and change it every 10,000 miles along with the Toyota filter.
Patrick Shiloh and I am sure it is safe to say that you only commute is your Prius, not many tack days I’m guessing to put you outside the parameters of what the suggested motor oil is intending.
On one of my cars, the oldest one l drive currently which is a 1999 Suzuki Esteem Wagon, just passed 426,000 miles using standard mineral based oils (non synthetic) which for the first 250,000 miles or so was mainly Castrol GTX (because back then oil standards weren't as tight as they are now and GTX was one of the better standard oils for high revving engines at the time) but then as motor oil standards improved l started using whatever major brand, fully certified oils l could get at the time (sales + rebates) and do 5000 mile oil changes (did a few 7000 mile change outs when most of the miles were hwy "road trip" miles) and to this day that engine (1.8L) burns no oil and purrs like a cat. First 12 years of its life was all stop & go city traffic shared by 3 family members so miles added up quickly. *Forgot to mention l mainly use WlX filters. "MicroGuard" filters at Oreilly's are rebranded WlX filters. Nowadays l mainly use that car for road trips and hauling things because it's a wagon and with the back seats down is perfect for a foam mat and sleeping bag. l estimate l will hit the 1/2 million mile mark by end of 2023. Original engine/transmission. Trans gets Valvoline MaxLife ATF & 40,000 drain/fill cycles (and same fluid goes in power steering).
Thanks Savage, great video and I have a question. Its for the reasons you've outlined surrounding operating temps and the seasonal variations, that I've decided to use different SAE oils depending on the season. I live in a mild to temperate region of Australia north of Sydney and near the coast, where it never gets too cold, say ave 7-10 degs C on winter mornings topping out to about 20 degs in the pm. But in the summertime, the temp never gets below 20 degs in the morning and can often exceed 40 degs on the hot days. I have a Lexus GS300 with the V6 (112,000 kms), plan of keeping it for a number of years and the manual specifies a range of SAE weight oils for use in it. So I've elected to use a 5W 30 oil from the Autumn thru Winter and changing to a 10W 50 in the Spring once the ave temps have risen, thru Summer; all fully synthetic and quality brands. I am about efficiency, longevity and optimum protection for my car and engine. Am I overthinking this or is my logic sound and worth the trouble etc?
Well I use WD-40 for all my cars and I've never had a rusty engine :)
😂
this is the best auto video i have ever seen. Logical analysi;, not pushing people to accept certain concept; and nice, comfortable pace, comparing with rushing tone of most youtuber nowadays. Thanks for sharing this knowledge!
Out of all the oil videos I have observed, including the ones from the mfg's by far, by far this one makes the most sense to me. Thank you for your video
I've been running Castrol GTX 20/50 in my 68 Corolla for 29 years, all seasons, 800,000 miles so far.
+IcantSignIn Thats kick ass, older motors more clearances so that thick stuff is good.
It's been a great car, most of the original Toyota parts lasted 40 years. The aftermarket stuff, water pumps, fuel pump, starters etc., seem to go out every year or two now.
+IcantSignIn
True, aftermarket cheap parts don't last - Reliance alternators, starters are example, but even current production parts often don't last as some in cars made 20-30 ago.
Chapeau to you sire. Yeah the delfi and other like parts manufacturers leave a lot to be desired. My 88 Civic DX alternator just stopped charging at 315k and just rebuilt than risk putting a Denso made in Taiwan part as replacement.
I HAVE RUN THAT IN ALL MY 42 OLD CARS SINCE 1980 NEVER HAD A PROBLEM, ONLY IN THE 3 I RAN LOW ON OIL--OOOPS!
This is one of the most useful posts on motor oil I have seen in a long time given how much discussion there has been on the topic over the years. The most helpful point here for me was Mark's comments on oil pressure, which is seldom addressed as a factor in oil performance. I have noticed pressure as an issue in everything from my Acura Integra 5 speed to my Buick 3800 V6 (yes, I hear the laughter! ). Each of these cars are obviously polar opposites for the driving style they invite and yet each one was impacted by a change in oil viscosity specs. My mechanic once changed the Acura's oil with 5/w20 and it did not perform as well in summer as with the 5w30 it was spec'd for. (Engine temps averaged much higher).
On the other side, the Buick, with its butter smooth (albeit ancient) pushrod design that heralded from the early 60's did not tolerate 5w30 in winter temp even though GM had 'updated' the engine's oil spec to include 5w30 use in winter for MPG reasons. I believe my experience with the poor performance with 5w30 was due to much wider tolerances for things like bearings which resulted in 'rattling' on startup and over consumption of oil between OCI's. With the change back to 10w30 year round, the 3800 was and is a very happy engine with no oil loss between changes. Both cars have full service histories of which I'm very familiar. My point here is that the way an engine is designed and the way its driven can have remarkable impact on oil pressure/oil viscosity performance and needs. The fact that pressure, temperature, driving demands, and viscosities are variables in such dramatically different cars as those I drive supports Mark's contention about viscosity and pressure. Thank you for the insightful video!
Just a general comment concerning your whole channel.
Mark I think this is one of the best car channels on youtube. I stumbled on it a few days ago and can't stop watching. You can go to some channels and get a 435 point break down of the exact composition of the polymer used for the left break light housing but somehow something is lacking. Other channels have the reviewer giving his impression of the car but somehow every car ends up being “awesome” or “terrible” they all just kind of blend together.
You have somehow nailed the perfect middle ground. Entertaining videos where you have clearly done legit research but you're able to actually get across to the viewer something special - a real sense of feel for the car. I’m not exactly sure how you do it so well but after watching you review a car I legit feel like I took it on a test drive. The way you describe things in a clear succinct way just makes sense.
Also your relationship with Turbowksi is really compelling to me. You guys can go from the 8th grade humor of a quick dry hump while the other isn’t looking to a fairly deep conversation about the cars you’re reviewing. I think it’s cool to watch because you both seem like real people. Anyway, really love the channel, thanks!
This is a really great video and I can underline everything say! Thanks for that! I personally (living in Germany) use 0W40 in winter and 5W40 in summer. I don't own a sports car that a xW60 would be needed. But also, I wouldn't go below xW40 - at least with turbo motors. I rather have a "thicker" oil that is more protective than a super-thin oil that might save me 0,0000001 liters per tank.
Ich bins i am livin in the netherlands. But what you are doin is not that important because germany never gets that coolld or warm. Just stick with a good brand oil on 0w30 or 5w30. I dont know which car you have but see manufacturer recommendations for the right oil the coding is like vw. 504 & 507 and 502 & 505. Be careful what you use and als have in mind if youre using mobil 1 0w40 its not a fully synthetich oil.
Yes fully synthetic oils even the expensive ester based ones generally have some mineral oil content, and top grade mineral oils will have some synthetic in the blend. Even the cheapest supermarket own brand "synthetic" oils which are based on the cheaper group 3 feed stock are 10 times better than old style mineral oils. Where you have to be very careful is with modern VW, BMW and Mercedes with greatly extended service intervals or any GDi or VW Diesel with Pumpe Duse.
If their was no wear material in the 0w20 I would say it's ok. The only way to truly know what the oil pressure is doing it to put an oil pressure gauge on the car. No point guessing.
+Corporal Punishment
not the pressure by itself- a flow meter would do proper job
+Andrew W MacFadyen
I do not follow the extended oil change intervals, nor the computer calculation of oil life left. I seen a couple very expensive engines that are finished and just to sleep at night I rather change it more often and spend a couple bucks more a year than to deal with blue smoke from the tail pipe - simply I do not believe in 20,000 km oil change intervals.
This is the best oil video out there! It should be posted on every car forum.
I like to use Pennzoil Platinum but that’s just my choice. I’m sure all are fine as long as you change your oil.
You're the first one I've heard to have some intelligence to oil. While I am an american car guy through and through I can respect and appreciate the fact that you know what happens to oil when it gets hot and you sir have a new subscriber.
DID HE JUST ASSUME MY MOTOR OIL!?
My viscosity is my own preference: I wasn't poured this way
Lol
I'm not fat i'm just high viscosity.
LMAO!!! Good one!
REEEEEEEEEEEEE 😭😂
great. now you got me going back to reading bobistheguy after a few months break. thanks.
In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the "W" number the better the oil's cold temperature/cold start performance.
wow.....even for someone as hard-headed as me, that funnel experiment really cleared the dust in my eyes about the different applications of oil. Great video.
In addition to squeezing through tight gaps, another hazard of thick oil is intake cavitation in the front side of the pump. You can sometimes see the wear it creates: it literally forces the metal to flake out, creating pitting.
Pete Zaitcev I wasn't aware of this in any engine oil pump situations. I would think the cold-temperature time is too small for any appreciable cavitation damage. I know in continual operation water pumping systems it is absolutely an issue. Have you seen this happen with oil pumps?
knew all this stuff but can't stress enough how informative and entertaining it is to watch these
i use Amzoil 10w 40 synthetic 15000 mile here in the Caribbean and i change my oil at 7500 miles, before i was using a higher viscosity which was causing my oil pressure switch to go bad and leak every month
I'm an Amsoil user too.
0w-30 is what I use all year round in Canada but the video is right that in a hot climate, many performance cars like the M3 needs 40 to 60.
Great video. Up here in Quebec where temperatures can range from -30F to 100F I run Mobile 1 0w 40 year round. '12 BMW X1 '08 BMW 328 '05 911. Two track days a year with the Porsche. Oil change intervals vary. The X1 is a daily and I travel 30,000 miles / yr so I replace the oil every 10k. The 328 are out only 8 months / yr only travel 4000 miles/yr so I change once a year (prevent moisture build up).
You can hear the difference when starting a car in cold temperatures with proper thin oil.
Question. Do all 0 weight oils have the same viscosity at 0°? For example the same manufacturer but a 0w20 v a 0w40 etc?
The weight spec has a range. For example, all 5w30 oils fall into a specific range in order to be called a 5w30 in the first place. Well, there's two specs, the 5 and then the 30. It's easiest to think of the 5 as the cold weight or the weight of the base oil. The 30 is the hot viscosity equivalent or effectively the result of the additive package's ability to keep the oil from thinning out as fast when temps rise. For example a 5w30 and 5w40 may have the same base oil but different additive packages to make one thin out a little slower than the other at higher temps. The 5w30 is effectively a straight 5 weight oil cold, but it mimics a straight 30 weight oil when hot and can do so only because of the additive package used.
The weight values are a spec. There's a scale and a 0 weight has a certain range, a 5 weight has a certain range above that, a 10 weight a range above the 5, and so on. There's a spec at the cold rating (32F/0C) and a spec at the hot rating (212F/100C). To be called a 5 weight, the oil has to be within the spec range. If it was formulated differently and ended up thicker, it would be called a 10 weight instead. In this sense, ALL 5w30s are the same (near the same) at 32F/0C and at 212F/100C ratings. However, they are NOT the same below 32F/0C and above 212F/100C. This is where the actual oils and additive packages different.
Some manufacturers have other specs beyond these two ratings. In some cases you can find a viscosity rating at -40F/-40C. You also have a separate rating called a Pour Point which defines the coldest temp the oil is still pourable. By pourable, there's a certain spec of flow rate, sort of like what was done with the funnel and jar in this video. To still be considered "pourable" it would require at least a certain level of flow. Once it falls below this rate, that's its limit. Generally you will see two broad ranges. One is old fashioned petroleum oil (dino) which has a pour rating of around -35F give or take some. The other is synthetic oils. These tend to have a Pour Point of around -50F to -60F, as it they flow better colder than petroleum based oils, even at the same rated viscosity.
In general, any oil with a milder additive package flows better colder. A 0w20 will flow better colder than a 0w30. You will generally find the Pour Point to be lower and the viscosity at -40F/-40C (if given) to be lower (flow better). As well, you will also generally find a higher base weight to have better high temp performance, so a 10w50 with stay a little thicker hotter than a 5w50 would. There's very little data on this aspect though, no real specs, and only some graph data floating around drawing more extended curves vs temp.
You will basically always find synthetic oils to be superior for both function and protection. They are also cleaner oils with less natural contaminants. The research out there basically says it's no contest here. Synthetics are the champs hands down. The only time you can't use a synthetic is if you're breaking in a new engine because it protects too well for the break in procedure.
Also, as you may have suspected, an oil like a 0w40 is a better all-arounder than a 10w40 or 0w20. These super oils that cover the wide spectrum are kind of the do it all oil that can handle both extreme cold and extreme heat. You can get as wide of a spectrum as a 0w50 or a 5w60, and these cover the range extremely well. This means you can buy something like a synthetic 0w40 and get outstanding winter performance, great cold startup, and still have excellent high temp performance.
Two things to note, generally speaking. Thin oil flows high volume. High volume flow means great cooling. Thick oil offers higher protection from metal on metal contact. At the same time, the engine design and clearances between parts defines flow rate and oil pressure. As was pointed out in the video, you can go too thin and loose oil pressure. You may need a higher performance oil pump to compensate. There is a balance in between protection and cooling that oil must do. If you go too thick, you may find that the flow volume is not there, and you may get heat build up in parts of the motor due to low flow and lack of oil collecting and evacuating that heat away. I have not seem much for data on this stuff personally, so I can't comment on specifics. Just understand that some of the recommendation of the oil viscosity is based on the balance of the two aspects. It's just a very fuzzy area for consumers because there is very little test data. Most of the knowledge seems stuck at the manufacturers.
+Xmvw2X Hell of a post, superb.
Thanks, right back at you for making hell of a great video. I love these types of discussions. Reviewing cars is only one part of the automotive world. There's a massive amount of technical content as well and a lot to learn. Jason from Engineering Explained has gained a lot of popularity tapping into this portion of the car enthusiast world. He's a smart guy but also a novice in a lot of ways, researching and learning along the way in order to present interesting content. He isn't coming from high experience though, so the presentation is different. You've gained quite a bit of knowledge from your own passions and interests, so I'm happy to see you formulating some of that acquired knowledge into consumable bits. I especially value the high level of experience. This brings a lot of insight and wisdom into the discussion, even discussion tailored towards a casual viewer. A great example is Randy Pobst on the Racing Line from Motor Trend. There too is a high level of experience, high knowledge content, and a presentation that's extremely insightful and informative without being overly complex and alienating to the consumer. You brought the same level to this video, and that was wonderful, very well done. I'd love to see more topics covered. You've hinted at one in the video: tires. Ideas could be more abstract too, for example discussing the ideal seating position or discussing what fundamentals make a car fun to drive. Some of this stuff you think about on every single car review and use it as part of your evaluation and discussion, but it's these things that can actually be their own discussion topics too. Keep up the good work on everything you do. I know you work hard squeezing this stuff into your already full life, so I very much appreciate that you take the time to create for others.
Xmvw2X This is the best post on TH-cam! ...or should I say reply. Thank you very much for the info!
Wow Xmvw2X. That is one of the best written explanations of oil viscosity I've ever seen. You hit the points on stuff that is technical and still managed to keep it understandable for someone who may be new to this. Kudos.
Great video! Out here in Phoenix, I run various viscosity oils based
upon "usage". (As you mention.) What really helps is a "real" oil
pressure gauge. ('94 Miata has one, thank you.) So in the summer, I'm
running a "40" weight vs. "30" weight. I have seen oil temps rise just
from sitting on the asphalt in traffic. It's also important to look at
the age of the motor. Older engines often require more viscosity as the
bearing clearances increase over time. There's a whole-lot-more to
motor oil than the average consumer understands. Thanks for another
informative video!!
Full synthetic oils can last up to 15k miles without significant breakdown. However, the oil does become contaminated with combustion products and material from engine components which basically turns it into liquid sandpaper. Running your oil for more than 6-7k miles is asking for trouble. I change mine every 5k and run full synthetic.
+MarzNet256 Have you ever sent your oil to a lab to confirm that? Because modern filters and oils do am amazing job at encapsulating debris along with modern motors having less issues with creating by products. As posted in the video at 15k miles on a oem oil it had more than enough life left and the filter was in excellent condition as well. I am with you I would not do it but running less than 10k miles on modern motors, group 5 oils with good filters is throwing money away.
You’re just making stuff up.
Those are 1980-1990 type of oil changes. No oil / car manufacturer in their right might would claim 15k if wasn't possible, and engines have much lower tolerances today than 20-30 years ago.
Of course it's a good idea to use the dip stick more than once a year to confirm how things are going down there, might need a squirt or two at some point which is far more dangerous to miss out on.
Top-spec specific oil is hellish expensive (it's a brand tax issue mostly), so I've done 10k mostly before (one year limit) and 18k oil changes the last two (added driving, still one year) and will continue to do just that. Only 95k miles on the car so it absolutely shouldn't burn oil which it doesn't. But reading oil comments means my engine should behave like an old diesel running on bunker fuel which is also...not the case.
MarzNet256 Newer engines don’t have as much blow by. I change my 2016 F165 myself every 8 to 9k miles. I have a few videos, it has 44k miles. Ford say don’t go over 10k miles.
If you pay attention, to the sound of your motor, I promise you will know when to change it. Another thing is when you smear with the stick, a drop on your fingers, and try to clean it.If the black isn't coming of by rubbing it with your finger, and you can still see some shady black mark...is overdue
You should have a million subscribers! This is one of the most informative sites on TH-cam.
I was so entranced by watching a legitimate oil analytics discussion that I never noticed my teddy bear was hogging all the Vap!
"YOU" are the best vloger on the planet. KEEP IT UP!
Thank you. This was very informative without sounding like a snob. I really appreciated the explanation of the significance of oil temperature And pressure.
Now if you could do the same for differential fluid...
I had a vw bug that wouldnt turn over in winter, but when i parked it in the garage heated it up started it then drained the oil changed it with winter grade oil it ran like a champ, was one of the few cars in town that would be on the road in below zero weather, and cured lots of cabin fever
i live in north east montana.... -40f is common
my 99 buick century calls for 5w-30.....and i run that in the summer
but 0w-30 is MUCH better in the winter....you can just hear the motor and lifters make less noise on a TRUE cold start
i also change it as soon as the oil change light comes on......i know im probably wasting money....
but it has 205K miles on it.....ill spend 25 bucks to change it before it ever gets CLOSE to actually needing to be changed
and at that mileage....things are probably wearing out quicker anyway....
might as well give it the best chance at hitting 300k
no need to change for the summer, 0w-30 will be fine year round
Please change change it oftener.
David
Alberta
Came across this video recently, was such an eye opener changed my perspective on what oil to run, the Fine Print series are the best!
Great job on all your videos, but this is by far the best.
That's awesome....finally someone speaks English. I have a 528i and live in the Philadelphia area,I run 0w 40..Thank you!!
How do you know what oil pressure is "catastrophically low"? Toyota just specs a min.@80C. That 0w20 UOA was very good. Also 265-270F is not stupid high, but about max i would go.
+homemadeHonda Most service manuals specify normal and low oil pressures based on a given RPM. For example at normal operating temps for many motors for every 1000 RPMs youd add 10psi of pressure. So at 2000rpm 30psi, 3000RPM 40psi etc. So as oil temps climb outside of normal range you'll see pressures start to fall below spec. So on a car with a 7000rpm redline you should see 80psi. When you start seeing half the pressure it's a rule of thumb to back off or risk damage. Higher the rpm, higher risk.
@savagegeese The pressure is measured at the oil pump so if it's low it means it's flowing better. What does the pressure have to do with damage? The lab test result you showed it was good.
@@krrk6337 The specified oil pressure is the pressure measured at the sensor's location, which is typically at the pump or filter. Also oil analysis does not usually show engine damage because the particles are typically retained within the oil filter, and the only way to reliably check for engine damage is to physically examine the filtering media and the engine itself. Oil analysis is only capable of showing whether the oil still meets the specification.
I run turbodiesel oil in my boosted G35
Turbodiesel (rotella t6 5w-40) contains more zinc in it and this helps with protection... I'll also assume the oil has some kind of additive to resist coking in the turbocharger
Thanks for the video
You will destroy that engine sir.
Rotella is not that good.
More zinc doesnt = better protection as well..
Better oil = better protection.
You should use 5w30 Signature Amsoil. 5w40 if you track, HARD.
If you have hours to read, google Rat540 engineer pro.
Best of luck.
for my old lexus ..it says to use 5w30..but in very cold climates i always switch to 0W30 (just for winter months) and i think only mobil1 brand sell it
Good choice. I switched to a 0w-40 for my 4 cylinder BMW. It runs just right now. Amsoil, Redline, Penrite, HPL, and Motul make the 0w weights. May be a few more.
I don't know how old your Lexus is but it likely says 5W instead of 0W because 0W wasn't available when your car was made. When OW-30 became available I started using it in my 1996 Honda Accord Wagon which called for 10W-30. Never had any engine problems when we let it go to our son about 3 years ago with nearly 200,000 miles. Still used no oil between 7,500 mile oil changes.
It is available in many brands.
This subject is a big deal to car people. Common sense and manufacture recommendations play a big part in oil viscosity used. Enjoyed the vid!
More to it than simply viscosity.
So do you buy oil based on ambient temperature or engine temperature? I live in upstate NY, so the temp can range from -20F to 100F during the year.
@
Engine temperature...
So when you start the car in the morning the engine temperature is the same as the ambient temperature and the high engine temperature is dependent on the thermostat's rating (usually around 185°F.).
Excellent video mate. Not only has your production value continued to improve over the years, but your presentation too. Keep it up :)
with the coyote engine it calls for 5w20 but with track pack it goes up to 5w50.
Steven Tenney I don't track my 13 Gt so I always run 5/20... even tho my cap says 5/50
Steven Tenney ..great Ford engine! 5.0 Coyote. 1 of best on rd.
THE best explanatory video on motor oil ever!
The best oil is the one that's on sale
Man from Nantucket which at the end you end up with a bicycle
Go to AutoZone and pick up one of there deals with oil and specific brand oil filter. Then tell them you have a car that they don't have a filter for. Tell them you still want to pay the "sale" price.
@Steve H. bullshit.! 250,000 miles on 5.3 chevy cheap oil only change filter and oil every 6 months.
@Steve H. Penzzoil ultra platinum is better in cleaning ability, wear tests (with a proper additive -> its dervide from natural gas so is more compatible with additives), and oil flow rates (natural gas is thinner and flows easily, including in cold temp). amsoil is fantastic oil, the signature series is probably the best on the market BUT grade 3 mineral oils like Pennzoil ultra do have benefits over grade 4 PAOs like Amsoil...such as what I listed.
@@ffagilar22451 they're probably going to ask what year make and model the car is.
2 the sale is while supplies last at the time period the sale's running. meaning you can tell them whatever you want, it's not going to mean fuck all.
Hey @savagegeese, at 4:59 the flashpoint for 50w oil is lower than 20w oil. I would have assumed the 50w oil is more robust against high temperatures than a lower weight oil. Why do you think this is the case?
Similarly, at 40 degrees celsius the 0w-50 is significantly more viscous than the 5w-30. If we were to assume the same at frigid temperatures, would a 5w-30 perform better at -40 degrees cold start up than a 0w-50?
If you live in a cold climate with M3 and you don't want to switch oil's like an idiot between summer and winter:
I would recommend installing auxiliary fuel heater (optional extra for BMW-s) or cheaper option is electric block heater.
You warm the engine up in the winter to room temperature before starting.
Never start 10W60 in very cold weather without preheat. Even if "I really need to buy a burger" scenario happens.
I stumbled on this video via the Corvette Forum ~ Happy I watched it. Very practical, educated and insightful oil observations. I'm also a firm believer in Oil Analysis. Well done Sir! I'll be subscribing to this channel for sure! ;-)
O.K. Dumb question ; I'm in Florida and a (long) retired auto mechanic and fire truck builder. My 2013 Hyundai Sonata (for example) recommends 5w20 on the oil cap. However, the owners manual (and dealer service dept.) recommends 5w30 or 10w30 in hotter climates. The dealer uses 5w30 so that's what I use (synthetic) and still change it every 3,000 miles (very old school) . My friends 2012 Scion tc says 0w20 AND NOTHING ELSE. I don't want to go against mfr recommendations but is 0w20 (synthetic) too thin for a hot climate like Florida? And would an additive like Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer help?
+Shepperd November Is your Sonata turbo? For Forida no reason to run a 0w20. You can run 5w30 and that will give you better upper end viscosity while balancing cold start performance. If you do a lot of driving, idling and tons of summer driving with turbo then 10w30 just ups your high end viscosity even more. Just takes more time to get up to temp.
savagegeese No , it's not a turbo. I do A LOT of highway driving . What about the Scion? Toyota say 0w20 regardless of climate. But I believe it's too thin for Florida. What say you?
Shepperd November, do not go a normal weight above manufacturer recommended. Just buy a better oil that maintains its rated viscosity at very high temperatures.
fadimo305 Got it , thanx. I'll stick with Valvoline full synthetic and sign it up for Valvolines 300,000 engine guarantee.
Shepperd November, this is for warranty and piece of mind. I live in Miami and I use Pennzoil Ultra platinum and I signed up for the Penzoil 500,000 miles warranty. I keep all my receipts. If anything were to happen no one can say I didn't go by the manufacturer recommendation.
Pretty detailed Overview of mythology of oil. A nice technical approach towards this. Thumbs up from me. Grettings from Europe
Great video but I highly suggest to use Vitamin Water instead. Ive been running it in all my cars no problem at all. Have a great day y'all!
Holy water works better than vitamin water, and gives the consumer Someone to blame when their engines seize.
P Schmied true, god hates you if it fails
Don't quit your day job.
That 0w 20 engine oil sample shows that it's fine to run the engine for track days. When you say that it's not good due to the low pressure flow in the engine I get that part but if it's going to skim the metals wouldn't that show up as the metal particles would show in the oil analysis?
wow, was completely expecting you to give some bullshit advice to the point I actually put off watching this episode. Very glad to be wrong.
I appreciate that you stayed away from the brand banter and focused on the actual important aspect of spec'ing an oil, the intended usage and operating temperatures (ambient and engine).
Savage. This is the best oil explanation hands down.
Since when do you own a scion again?! Did I miss something?
BTW: My favorite oil to run in my car is fresh bacon grease from a thick cut Oscar Mayer.
Its for show to gain street credit with the 16-21 crowd.
savagegeese I bet its a kit car! Is there a corolla under there?
savagegeese you got a automatic 86?
savagegeese hilarious. I’m 38 and my first car was a 1989 Chevy 5 speed Barretta then 1980 Chevy Monte Carlo
78 El Camino
78 Malibu Classic 2 door
1980 Chevy c-10
1979chevy c10
1978 Chevy c10 big ten
I have always had classic Chevy style cars
And I just don’t understand how and why these kids think a rice burner is something cool 😎
I never thought any of those were cool except the old Acura vigor
And the original crx.
These kids don’t understand what driving is or owning a car till you have a older Chevy with a 350 motor
It makes you realize the reality around you better
A Chevy 350 can bring clarity to a adolescent life
Maybe even make these millennials stop whining and grow some testosterone like their grandfather had
savagegeese you should do a video on how older cars where designed better in regards to strength , quality , durability,simple design , user friendly consumer friendly repairs and maintenance (cost) and longevity compared to modern cars life spans and throw away vehicles and our throw away society as a whole - tie in with consumerism on your newer video on “two things new cars are terrible because of “
That could be about a two hour video
Also the comparison of prices then and now with inflation taken into consideration
Another thing I've noticed (in Australia) looking up the right oil online or at the shop gives you X spec. Looking in the OEM manual will give you a temp chart and recommended viscocities, when we have a climate that fluctuates from sub zero to over 40deg C there's usually 3 different grades that are recommended. There is no one size fits all. I guess the US would have a similar temperature fluctuations.
great video....really enjoy your channel....keep up the good work! cheers
Very well done video. You hit a lot of the key marks and did so in a very unbiased, straightforward manner.
My Porsche Cayenne V8 uses 0w40 Mobil 1 from the factory. They also say it's a 20,000 mile interval.
It's redline is 6500 rpm which is high for a V8. The Porsche has dry dump lubrication and in addition to a coolant temperature it has oil temperature gauge so I guess at the track I'd know if I'm frying the oil, right?
That's nice it has an oil temperature gauge. My car doesn't, but I don't track it so no big deal. Your Porsche probably has an oil pressure gauge as well. You will know you're frying the oil when the pressure drops off, just like it was explained in this video. While this information is good to know, your Porsche will give you a warning indication if the oil temp or pressure goes out of operating range. It might even limit the power output to make sure nothing is damaged. This information is absolutely necessary if your car doesn't have these fail safes and is a track vehicle.
As for the 20,000 mile interval. I have my own opinion on that. I personally think it's too high. Yes, the oil itself can probably take it, but the oil filter still needs to be changed. The filter can still get clogged and cause flow and pressure problems, but your Porsche's ECM is monitoring pressure and would warn you if it drops.
And it's a dry "sump" lubrication system
iVlog I place 0w-40 in my 2012 Z06 for Daily and Track duty. It'll see 250-270° oil temps and my pressure has always been good. Few Corvette members have sent in their oil for analysis after track days and it's always come back good for the Mobile 1 0w-40. The Z06 also has a dry sump system and also redlines up to 7000.
Thats good to know Joszer, how many miles/duty hours are you guys seeing between changes and do you use a chemical flush also.
I didn't realise that Z06 had a dry sump lube system, its great to know as it was something I had considered quite a while ago. What year did GM introduce dry sump and is it also on the Camaro?
I usually do about 4 track days before swapping out the oil. That equates to about ~2000 miles of hard driving. That factors in the mileage to the track and back since it's about 150 each way for me. I just do a simple drain and fill, no chemical flush at all. Also as far as I am aware (& after after a few minutes of googling) only the 2013-2014 Camaro Z28 and the new 2017+ Camaro ZL1's have dry sumps. All the others have a conventional wet sump systems.
Jesus Christ. It's Mobil 1, not Mobile 1.
I was so impressed that I hit the SUBSCRIBE button. BTW the cheapest engine is very expensive but the most expensive oil is very cheap.
One thing that’s really important to note on the synthetic oil‘s that say they can run for 10,000 miles say that it’s only for newer cars with low mileage
Auto/oil manufacturers warn people not to go 10,000 mile on a oil change on a older ,worn/highmileageengine
A lot of people have older cars and they’re trying to save money and they put this oil in and they get rid knock and valve noise and can’t figure out why
Even in my buddies 2019 jeep says do not go over 3000 miles on a oil change
All my Nissan manuals say nothing you can put in your engine will restore it and to only change your oil every 3000 miles
So I honestly think the one year/15,000 Mile oil change is a bs
M&R Tuning yes because it’s not sealed oil in gearbox. It’s oil mixing with water and particulate matter and fuel, depending on the car, location, and use. Good point
This guy knows more about oil then I know about cars in general!
When was the last time you drove that Bummer? What is it, the 4th garage queen?
Always find Scott's comment entertaining.
Wish I had a garage queen.
i have 2 jackstand queens
Cinder blocks don't count ;)
Scott I sold the BMW M3. The level of Motorsports was too much for me.
In the winter, using lower viscosity than suggested, I would be worried about the low viscosity after the engine warmed up. I know the oil would be thick for the first 5 minutes but after that then what? Wouldn't it then become too thin? Would I rather start the car with to high of viscosity or run for miles with too low a viscosity? In the winter, I would go my manufacturers suggestion but on the track, I understand what your saying. Thanks for the video.
Crazy informative. Awesome vid
So I live in a tropical climate where it never gets cold... I have a 1997 Mercedes e420 with 87K miles on original engine which I bought about a year ago and now daily drive. What oil weight should I use? I have always stuck with 10W30, not understanding the viscosity rating. Since it never gets cold here, should I run a higher weight? Like 10W50? Any input would be helpful. I appreciate the full breakdown (no pun intended) in the video... and now know what to run in cold climates.
Yes, there are so many car myths and the story I'm about to tell you should not be taken too lightly.
I remember one time I went to the gas station and accidentally put diesel 3/4 into the gas tank. My car was a high performance stock Honda Civic Si with the aerodynamics package (while the package didn't increase horsepower, from my understanding, it made my car a knife in the wind which was the equivalent to adding 90 horsepower to the wheel). Needless to say I was worried that I wouldn't be able to race a Toyota Corolla in a hour or two. However, it wasn't just any Corolla but the Corolla-S. Luckily, I called my friend Bryan, and he told me to just fell up the rest of the tank with water but make sure I used Kentwood water because it has special additives. Unfortunately, I didn't listen and instead used Dasani Strawberry Flavored Water (it was the only water on sale). When I turned on the car I noticed right away the additional horsepower the engine created from the loud noises coming from the block itself. I knew immediately that the potential of my large block DOHC 2.0 inline-4 with the K&N air filter had been unleashed. When I showed up to race the Corolla-S, I revved up my engine and people were starring because of the fire emanating from the Honda exhaust system. The driver of the Corolla-S was so scarred that he was crying (he knew he was defeated). The race began and my special fuel mixture with additives produced so much horsepower out of the K20 engine that it lit both the engine and exhaust on fire. I beat the Corolla-S for the 1st 30 feet but after that my car just disintegrated, literally. I learned that day one of the greatest car myths ever: when mixing diesel fuel + water, to substitute for gas, you must use Kentwood mineral water because of the additives. It's been 2 years since that epic race and I should be getting out of the hospital soon due to the 3rd degrees burns I experienced from my car blowing up that day. I'm ready to start driving again. This time, when I'm ready to race, I will know the proper diesel fuel + water to add to my car. I will keep everyone posted. OK, thanks.
ErwinSchrodinger64 lol nigga.. that Perrier water worked
I want to see your entire story acted out in Hollywood quality with the narration of the original story playing over the film.
This is Bullshit, Erwin S. I have mixed diesel and gas and just got smoke and no power. Good try.
Erwin S. You need to watch old "Myth Busters" series from Discovery Channel that did experiments how much punishment engines could take!
Did we really need to hear that ?
Super review on Motor Oil, this is getting close to 300K view, WOW. My 2 cents on this topic, I am 68 years old and I got my first car @ 16 living in Montreal. I have been researching Motor Oil each time I get a different car. I first used synthetic motor oil in 1977 in a VW Rabit . What I have learned is that Synthetic 0W-30 of top quality ACEA A3 B4 for an older motor and 0W-30 ACEA A5 B5 (fuel efficient) for cars not older than 10 years. At the present I drive a Volvo T5 and use 0w-30 A5 B5 as recommended by Volvo. My background is Engineering.
Track day prep guide:
Vape kit? Check.
Teddy Bear? Check.
Cereal packed? Check.
Let's race!
Mendicant Bias hell yeah
DICK HANGING OUT, CHECK.
+carl gustav Go to hamster also.
you just confirmed my thoughts on oil.. glad to know I'm not the only one.. I figured this out when I started driving. but was not sure.. it all just make sense thanks bruther!
It's hard to believe anyone remains ignorant of the advantages of the synthetic oils. They've been available since the mid 80's.
Early 70’s
Great video! Q: in the BRZ example of racing on the track with thin oil, wouldn’t the bearing damage have shown up on the oil report? I know the before/after viscosity was mentioned but what about the metals.
So . .
0w-60 is best?
Anton Zuykov it was a joke
gorrilaunit99 false. You wanna run 0w100
You still need good flow even in the higher temp ranges. Thickness/viscosity isn't the only important issue but flow rate too.
0W-40
yeah seriously though surely 0-40 makes sense in nearly all applications. if the oil is changed frequently enough as to ensure the additive package hasn't failed at maintaining the viscosity at higher temps, why wouldn't you use this oil in an regular or performance road car? Guys?
Thanks for this Video. This has opened up my eyes about Oil Visocity and Engine Temperature Ratings
"W" stands for (Winter) by the way and not (Weight). Thanks for the videos!
If I am not mistaken, the number before the "W" refers to the kinematic viscosity at 40C which isn't very cold at all. And the number after the dash refers to the kinematic viscosity at 100C. Two data points and the rest of the curve could vastly differ between two oils of the same rating. Looking at pour point is a decent way to understand what happens when it is really cold and you will see big differences among oils there. My favorite oil for year round use in performance applications is the so-called "German Castrol" 0W-30. I have had good luck with it in my CTS-V up to 285F oil temps and it is awesome in the very cold, too. Just a great oil. I also like it in the GM Northstar as well as the old small block. There are other great oils like this but also keep in mind I am using it in engines that mostly center around 5W-30 as their original viscosity requirement.
Thanks for the video, but I'm not sure why this is such a hard thing to understand. If the owner's manual is well written, it will give owner's a choice of oil viscosity (weight) to use based on condition, i.e. temperature, such as our Nissan Pathfinder's manual does. It says that 10w-30 or 10w-40 may be used if ambient temp is 0*F - 100*F+; however, they (Nissan) say 5w-30 is preferred for ALL ambient temps (page 9-7 of owner's manual)...it has seen 5w-30 synthetic at every oil change...when in AK, everyone put oil & trans pan heaters on their cars to "help" the fluids stay warmer so they would reach the important parts faster....at -30*F, you don't want thick oil...actually, you don't want to be outside, but that is a different story. I'm hoping in the winter/extreme cold, that people aren't tracking their cars, but I guess you could ice race, but then, why would you use a $50K streetcar? What does Porsche run in their cars during their winter driving events? Simple - use oil that meets spec, meets MFG's recommendations, and matches the conditions you are driving in...still not sure why this is hard to understand.
K03sport What year pathfindet? r50? 3.5 V6?
Yes, an 04 R50 3.5v6 se awd...I extend the oil change interval out to 5k miles despite the book telling me 3750miles...it doesn't see towing or stop&go traffic
K03sport I have 04 LE RWD in the North East. 5k miles with synthetic? what oil and filter are you using?
Andres Hernandez usually mobil1 5w30 w/standard dealer filter...again, truck is garaged, doesn't tow and sees 50/50 mix hwy/city...I'm not too worried about extreme driving conditions here in central OH
+K03sport Its mostly because people only follow whats on the cap. And the concept of deviating even if its best is foreign to most. I have been shocked by what I see at track events, online and just lack of overall knowledge including that from tuners on the topic.
Thank you for doing this video. I plan on pouring out my oil on a bitterly cold morning and seeing how thick it is. Will German Castrol 0w40 turn into sludge at 40*F? I doubt it. I'm actually wondering how it changes at higher temps. I like to go on brisk mountain drives and keep the GTI's engine on the boil for extended periods. Perhaps when the weather gets more like Spring/Summer I should go with something a bit thicker? Figuring out starting conditions seems a lot easier than figuring out operating conditions.
+Candice Juliano Shooting 0w40 should be excellent in cold with no issues. Unless you are in the Tundra then switch to 0w20/30.
The only problem with 0w oils is it compromises the viscosity at higher temps. So it will be thinner at 220F than the same brands 5w40 which I did not mention. But unless you are seeing 240F+ in summer then 0w40 should be gold, I mean if it was very hot all the time you could go to 5w40 10w40 or even 0w50. Just depends on your climate and oil temps. Make sense?
savagegeese It does, thank you. The problem with oil discussions and info out there is that it lacks basic explanations that suffice for those who do not want to split hair but want to make informed decisions. This pairs well with your M3 review, as seeing that 20W oil and the insane bearing clearances in your M3 really illustrates the axiom that most wear on engines happens on startup. In my case, it's just the lack of an oil cooler that gives me pause.
I will now be testing a summer oil with higher hot viscosity when Temps rise.
Nice informative video without hearing "Engineering Explained" annoying voice.
Yeah you get this guys annoying voice instead.
something1random23 seriously! This guy has one of the most disturbed voices , it seems that he is allways complaining about world hunger. Jezus. We are just talking about cars here people...
Engineering Explained is great!
Luke Pochron Yes!
Mourinho M YES. His voice monotone voice is annoying af. Informational but sadly annoying.
You have amazingly useful information with conclusions. You, Engineering Explained, DailyDriver, and Wrxfan, only people that provide tangible pleasant super informed videos.
I just keep it simple I use with the manufacture suggest in the owner's manual
You missed everything important in this video.You and I have the same car, though you live in a place where the ambient weather temperature is 3 Celsius at night, and 15C during the day.. I live in a place where the ambient weather is 24C at night and 48C during the day with heavy duty usage. No way the engine would tolerate the same oil rating as yours.
fkmbmw I've never heard of engines failing due to the owner following the oil recommendation in the manual.
elr2141979 my owners manual gives me options for oil based off your areas climate. I found that rather cool that they take that into account.
iTheGeek which boggles my mind because car companies have Engineers to figure this stuff out so we don't have to.
Its not a theory and please don't throw words online without any background knowledge, someone would might read your comment and ends up fucking up their car.
Call a major motor oil company, ask them what does the numbers on their products mean, then come back to me (they will tell you it reps celsius low and high respectively). Fun fact your engine gets cooled by radiator coolant lines beside the engine block through tunnels and passages. Fun fact #2 your engine oil temp does not show the exact temp, it goes up when there is a major problem in overheating. Plus, having a thin oil (aka designed for cool climates) won't harm an engine right away, but it degrades faster with everyday heavy usage in hot ME or Australian deserts for example much much much faster than a heavier oil for example, rendering the thin oil to lose viscosity much faster that causes problems right away.
You are mistaken engine temp with oil temp. Ask yourself why does heavy duty designed cars, or cars designated for Middle Eastern markets are fitted with bigger oil cooler and added with a dedicated transmission oil cooler? Plus, dealerships over there abide by manufacturing rules and PUT HEAVIER OILS (10/20w-40/50)in their cars that are identical to the ones we see in the US markets.
More videos about this topic please
This seems like the most important thing in the cars
Loved the vid, great info
Here is a question: If UOA didn't show excessive wear metals, then the data has proven that within 4k miles the oil is doing its job of protecting the engine even on track conditions. Why would you still not use the redline 0w-20 for track despite the UOA results just because your oil pressure gauge showed low pressure? Isn't the UOA the final say in actual wear regardless of other operating parameters like oil temperature and pressure?
+Yixin Guo Because low oil pressure conditions mean you dont have adequate oiling and on a track at high RPM with a motor that's not completely healthy or brand new it's a recipe for disaster. It's a cardinal sin to run a motor with low oil pressure.
Thanks for the explanation. Would be nice to add this info to the video. Keep up the good work!
Is a mechical defect of the engine/design or an oil breakdown?
BMWs don't last. I've owned 3. All had issues after 70 thousand miles. So factory recommendations from BMW don't mean shit. If Toyota says it's ok, you can take it to the bank. My F type Lexus is at 78 thousand. Not the first issue.
John Edmonds pics? The F line from Lexus is very sexy
German cars suck..
Japanese is best ;))
John Edmonds do you know what BMW stands for bought my wife LOL
70k is high milage. I would expect things to start wearing out from then on
GMoney You sound like a spokes person for amsoil.
Savagegeese you are easily the most underrated youtuber making car videos today. Keep up the good work and your follower count will grow quickly.
Please please please do a full review on the Golf R (and compare to the Focus RS).
Consumer Reports reported, you can use conventional oil for 7000 miles just imagine synthetic.
So for a rule of thumb, how big a "jump" would you make from one oil rating to another if you were adjusting for track temps or cold temps? Like, for that FR-S, it normally runs 0W-20. For a track day, what weight of oil would you run on it? xW-30 or -40? Or even higher? And for day to day driving, is there a danger to running a higher weight oil in a car that's meant to run something as thin as 0W-20?
Or conversely, how much thinner of an oil would you run in the M3 during the deep winter?
+Antenox For the FRS in summer if you track the car without forced induction You could do a 0w40 for severe duty or a 5w30 for lighter duty. Will increase cold start pressures and take longer to get up to temp but just know that and be patient. Both will keep pressures stable to around 240F. 0w40 better for 255F. Make sure you use top level synth for that.
Thanks, very informative video
Your analysis is right on when you tried to pour the oil into a jar when the oil is cold, it won't pour as freely as would think. This is why I don't believe in multi grade oils even though I do use it. I think it is just a come on for the oil companies to make more money. I also don't believe in 10,000 mile oil changes either. I change my oil every 3,000 miles or sooner and that includes changing the oil filter as well. This is my opinion and this is what works for me on all of my vehicles. My vehicles are older and I don't use Synthetic oils either, maybe I would if I had newer vehicles.
all season tires, that's all I gotta say about that
One of the best channels on YT. You guys rock!
This would have been a lot easier for people to understand if you just explained what the two numbers mean. The first number (before the W) is the thickness/viscosity at freezing, the second number is the thickness/viscosity at operating temp. If you live in a climate where it gets cold, you need a low first number like 0 or 5. If you live somewhere like Southern California you don't need to worry about the first number.
+Nayr747 Except everyone knows that, but those 0w and and 5w numbers dont explain what happens outside the spec sheet range and thats the point. But yes for most people that are doing a-b its that simple.
I would say most people don't know that. But the people who watch dedicated car channels like this are probably a little more knowledgeable. Still I think spending 10 seconds at the start of the video on the basics would be helpful for lots of viewers.
what is "operating temp"? 100 C?
@@ytube777
After reading all these comment I don't know. When people here mention operating temperature are they asking about the oil temperature in the engine or the coolant temperature or the cylinder head temperature? I don't know. I have gauges in my RAV4 that read coolant temperature and transmission fluid temperature but that's it. My coolant temperature is close to 185°F (85°C) once the engine is fully warmed up. My transmission operating temperature is 158°F(70°C) to 176°F(80°C) according to a Toyota service manual but sometimes it reads lower or higher.
Use the viscocity specified by your ownersmanual for the temp range you drive it in, and use castrol magnatec for better startup protection
The Owners Manual does not say what brand to use, only vicosity, API rating and manufacturer specs if so stated, GM/dexos, MB, VW ect.
If you have one, use the engine block heater in the winter.
I suppose the better response is: Why would anyone be driving a very expensive high performance RWD in shit winter conditions?
I think if someone were to be doing that, they clearly are flush enough that they don't need to care much about the vehicle's longevity.
I truly believe that the vast majority of "sports cars" are to feed ego. Most people never track them, and wouldn't have the skills to handle them even if they do/did.
+AK I agree with what you said, but there are plenty of those who buy second hand sports cars because they are affordable. Those same people turn them into daily drivers and rules that did not apply before suddlely do. (Not usually applicable for first owners)
Josh Lee i ordered my new brz with an engine block heater. Never had one, they sound cool. Can't wait to see my new car next month. I figured with like 12 miles on it at 14 degrees Fahrenheit, the block heater might save the break in of the motor.
Older small engines from Japanese manufacturers just wouldn't heat up unless on the hwy - my older Civic has this problem and block heater was the only solution to the problem. Also reduced fuel consumption will pay itself for block heater and hydro expenses, not to mention reduced time needed for scrubbing the iced windows and pleasure of driving a car that is not stinking cold.
@@anishannayya1
I don't drive when the weather is bad period. I don't have to because I'm retired. Every winter day is not a bad day for driving. There are plenty of sunny days with great road conditions. Of course some parts of the country are colder & snowier than others but right now it's 13°F here and expected to drop down to 4°F overnight. So, yes, it is winter. (02/14/20)
So, I drive a 2013 VW GTI in Northwest Oregon. Generally a pretty mild climate. But summers are pretty hot. The book says to run a 5W-40. What I'd your opinion on the Redlind 5W-40? If you know anything about it. It's a daily driver. And I tend to drive it pretty hard. I definitely don't baby it. I normally drive 20 miles to work. But I also drive up to the mountains, through the coastal mountains, and drive hard on the backroads.
when you start to get below 0 or even down below 10 all oils are going to be stupid think unless you use a 0 oil
Well,If you were " skimming bearings " metal would have shown up in the sample. Flawed thinking. Engine configuration will also effect contamination ( direct inj,carberated,port injection, turbo, rotory engine [mazda?] And than all the other things you said.
I had a vehicle that required 5w20 , in the summer I put in 5w30 to deal with the high heat over 100 degrees. when I put back in 5w20 for the winter, my suv started burning oil. conclusion = always use the factory viscosity , never deviate!
Are you sure your just not burning leftover 5-30~
SAE viscosity isn't the only factor here.
Was any of that oil high mileage oil?
I only run Quaker state. Not because I'm a fan boy, but simply because that's what Hyundai recommends. I use 10w30 in the summer, and I plan to use 5w20 in the winter. I'm debating whether or not to use synthetic in the winter. All I do is drive 70 miles round trip to work (mostly highway), and a few smaller trips here and there.
Group 4 (synthetic)
mobile one 3000, Rotella T6, Shaeffer's,
Group 5 = Synthetic Ester Core based.
Redline, Motul
Marc Thomas I fell in love with using Amsoil 3 years ago.
Rotella T6 and Mobil one are Full synthetic (petroleum oil) group lll
There's gtl based oils
gary miller full synthetic but, not 100% synthetic like amsoil. Amsoil says 100% on there bottle. Mobil 1 does not.
Motor oil numbers (10W-40 for example) is specified by celsius NOT by fahrenheit as you mentioned .. please correct me if i'm wrong.
+fkmbmw yes always in C but I convert for us Americans who have to do things different for no reason.
I believe in just following the car manufacturers recommendations in the owners manual. I have a Prius currently with over 300,000 miles and it's never had any repairs. I do use a superb car maintenance program www.automotivewolf.com that tracks my maintenance schedule and notifies me when anything is due and that definitely makes a BIG difference. I just use the Toyota synthetic oil that's recommended and change it every 10,000 miles along with the Toyota filter.
Patrick Shiloh and I am sure it is safe to say that you only commute is your Prius, not many tack days I’m guessing to put you outside the parameters of what the suggested motor oil is intending.
just downloaded that Automotive Wolf software... awesome! :)
On one of my cars, the oldest one l drive currently which is a 1999 Suzuki Esteem Wagon, just passed 426,000 miles using standard mineral based oils (non synthetic) which for the first 250,000 miles or so was mainly Castrol GTX (because back then oil standards weren't as tight as they are now and GTX was one of the better standard oils for high revving engines at the time) but then as motor oil standards improved l started using whatever major brand, fully certified oils l could get at the time (sales + rebates) and do 5000 mile oil changes (did a few 7000 mile change outs when most of the miles were hwy "road trip" miles) and to this day that engine (1.8L) burns no oil and purrs like a cat. First 12 years of its life was all stop & go city traffic shared by 3 family members so miles added up quickly. *Forgot to mention l mainly use WlX filters. "MicroGuard" filters at Oreilly's are rebranded WlX filters.
Nowadays l mainly use that car for road trips and hauling things because it's a wagon and with the back seats down is perfect for a foam mat and sleeping bag.
l estimate l will hit the 1/2 million mile mark by end of 2023. Original engine/transmission. Trans gets Valvoline MaxLife ATF & 40,000 drain/fill cycles (and same fluid goes in power steering).
Thanks Savage, great video and I have a question. Its for the reasons you've outlined surrounding operating temps and the seasonal variations, that I've decided to use different SAE oils depending on the season. I live in a mild to temperate region of Australia north of Sydney and near the coast, where it never gets too cold, say ave 7-10 degs C on winter mornings topping out to about 20 degs in the pm. But in the summertime, the temp never gets below 20 degs in the morning and can often exceed 40 degs on the hot days. I have a Lexus GS300 with the V6 (112,000 kms), plan of keeping it for a number of years and the manual specifies a range of SAE weight oils for use in it. So I've elected to use a 5W 30 oil from the Autumn thru Winter and changing to a 10W 50 in the Spring once the ave temps have risen, thru Summer; all fully synthetic and quality brands. I am about efficiency, longevity and optimum protection for my car and engine. Am I overthinking this or is my logic sound and worth the trouble etc?
Redline,Motul, Amsoil, Schaeffer's, pennszoil ultra platmum.
👍
Liqui Molly is better than all of those
royal purple hps, the one with synerlec. but yeah, hands down red line