It's pretty impressive how much actually goes into motor oil. Shout out to Mobil 1 for giving us so many peeks behind the curtain. Gives a lot of confidence to the customer when a company is that open.
They really aren't... Open about the results.... Companies like amsoil clearly print the performance results such as Noack volatility (the test that separates the men from the boys in oil)
While I do find all these methods of testing and their results extremely impressive.. I do wonder why they don’t have any tests that simulate short drives where the engine is cooled off and heated back up frequently, as the constant heat cycling of engines is really the hardest on them.
I agree, 120,000 miles accumulated in 6 months with very little interruption is very different from 120,000 miles accumulated over 10 years with thousands of complete cooling cycles.
The only thing that they didn't test out was the effect of corrosion/effect of the nature over a prolonged period of time and those sorta things happen only with time. And the effect of time on oils. They changed oil every month or so in these tests (20k miles every month ie 120k miles for 6 months) is my assumption. And oil oxidises with time and could impact the test results.
My Grandfather worked for Mobil oil doing lubricant testing, He retired in 1974 After 30yrs. I wish I had asked him more questions about his experience. I don't remember much. I think at the time the facility was in long Island City. All I could think of while watching this is him doing this work so long ago. Thank You
12:00 ... exactly why I subscribe. I was afraid you were going to say the oil made the difference in those intake valves when it's clearly just the port injection cleaning them up. Thanks for doing what you do so honestly.
Definitely worth whatever it costs them to bring you out, us gear heads really appreciate the transparency and deeper explanations that can't be put on a bottle label.
One parameter has been omitted in this testing. Time. Over time, over so many kilometers, the results might be different due to heat/cool cycles which play a huge role in oil's behaviour.
Synthetic oil testing is a gimmick. They could never do long-term test because synthetic oil can't boil off moisture at lower temp. The results is acidic oil, internal corrosion and faster wears. Synthetic oil shear-ability is low and this causes more issue with catalytic converter and O2 as well. All these stuff can be google it all online.
I used to be brand loyal on motor oil, but now any of the big name brands works for me. I agree, overall oil has improved significantly. Very interesting video and thanks to Mobil 1 for inviting you!
Thank you and Mobil 1 for illustrating so much Takeaways. 1. Use a highest rated oil from a top & trustworthy manufacturer. 2. Cut the auto & oil manufacturers intervals to the heavy use interval. 3. Keep car tuned up. Fix running problems. 4. Don't run motor cold. Especially loaded. 5. Run a top tier fuel 6. Avoid direct injected engines. 7. Buy much older or late model Toyotas.
I have no idea which oil is best. When I started using filters that clean oil in 1963 I was using Standard Delo 30 weight winter grade. It was 29 cents at the discount stores. Multi grades didnt hold up in those days. Couldnt use them in a diesel engine. In those days I changed the Frantz oil cleaner about every 2 000 miles and added a quart of Delo. We used toilet paper in those days. Todays toilet paper doesnt fit the Frantz. All I have now is Gulf Coasts and Motor Guards. I just installed a Australian Jackmaster. Its the best one in production. I had to remove a Motor Guard to install the Jackmaster. Had to try the Jackmaster. Looks good. I knew it was superior before I installed it. They have a nice fabric covered element. Ive been using Great Value 1000 from Walmart. Ive been using the Super Tech 20 000 mile oil. Some say it is made by the same company that makes Mobil 1. Doesnt make it the same oil but probably makes it a quality oil. I removed the Jackmaster element and installed toilet paper. I will use the factory element later. I got the classic model. Need a wrench to remove the lid. I dont drain oil. I might if I got a leaky head gasket or something like that. I drive enough to keep the fuel and water removed thru the PCV valve. Here in the Dallas area I change the filter about every 6 K miles. Mostly highway. Same oil and filters in everything that has an oil pump.
@@ralphwood8818 There have been numerous reviews and studies comparing SuperTech to Mobil1, and almost every one of them down the line puts them on the same level (save for the price point). And yes, the oil comes from the same producer, so the only difference would be the detergents that are added I would think.
@@EngineeringExplained Where I'm at, Mobile 1 is one of the cheaper oils on the market, but continually receives praise as being one of the best. Any thoughts on why it's cheaper AND better? Usually you don't see good stuff being less expensive.
I've used castrol Gtx, 10 30 oil for 338.000 miles in my 94 Trans Am since new. Runs like new, uses no oil, engine never been touched, even the timing chain is original.
As it happens I use M1 Extended 0W20 in our new cars. What the video doesn't say, is that any brand that meets those standards should be just as good as M1 up to the performance rating by the manufacturer. So, as long as you trust the brand putting the standards on their labels, you're good to go. I'd also like to know how oil co's, guarantee that their production meets these standards from day to day, week to week ... ie: maintain and monitor the quality over many, many "batches" of oil over the years. (is it batches? Continuous?).
That's not entirely true. The specifications set minimum performance criteria. So any oil that meets the spec will guarantee performance to a level "X", but there will be plenty of oils that exceed that performance level, allowing longer drains less wear etc. As for quality control, there's plenty of batch testing that is done at the manufacturing plants to ensure consistent quality of final product. There's also full traceability that goes into the manufacture - so theoretically if there was a warranty claim that pointed to the oil being at fault they can trace it all the way back to date of manufacture.
@@LubricationExplained I would point out that there is no need to use an oil that EXCEEDS the manufactuers requirments as long as you follow their service guidlines as stated in the owners manual. The engin is not going to perform any better.
Automotive technician here, and yes I'm sure under the right conditions Mobil 1s oil can work on these longer mileage intervals and it's very impressive. HOWEVER there are a thousand different variables that cannot be controlled or tested for in the real world that your car will be exposed to. Modern engines have very tight tolerances when it comes to the need for oil, and all it takes is a slip second with less than ideal oil condition to permanently damage your engine. I have seen particularly on kia's or Hyundai 2.0 turbo motors chew threw turbos in under 30k miles because the owner was doing 7 or 8 thousand mile oil changes. Most Subarus are going to burn through at least a quart of oil in a 5k mile oil change interval, and that would get worse with more and more distance put on that oil. Long story short just do your oil changes every 5k miles, really it's not that hard and it's the bare minimum to keep your engine In good health. I have a job because people can't do their oil changes on time, save your self the money in the future and do your oil changes.
I remember doing 10k intervals on my toyota echo with Mobile 1 fully synthetic due to the packaging statement lol. Luckily I didn't run into an issue, but eventually started following the Echo's manuals 7,500 interval just to be safe after reading up on Fuel Dilution of motor oils. As a non-automotive tech, sounds like by the very design of direct injection and the piston rings over time fuel gets passed the rings and seeps into the oil pan which over time will dilute the oil and dilute the oils ability to remain as viscous, not to mention at its worst actually wash away the oil from the piston/ports.
I'm sorry Subarus burn through a quart of oil? Beside belonging to my local subie club and never seeing these issues. I do all my own oil changes and with my 2018 crosstrek I bought new I've done 6k mile oil changes with a 7k when I had to drive long distances on short notice for the military and one 10k oil change when I was deeply depressed. I have litterally never seen and oil level drop and I am now over 60k miles. You might say I am a sample size of one but you are also a sample size of one, and subject to the same biases if you Hear this stuff from your colleagues, as when I dont hear issues from my friends.
@Nathan - What group oil is being used? Group 3, Group 3+ or Group 4? Group 3 in a turbo beyond 3500 miles between oil changes is a recipie for failure. For those of us old enough to remember the 1979 Fox chassis Mustang and the original 2.3 Lima turbo engines, those engines had a recommended oil drain interval of 1500 miles due to oil coking issues. A lot of people assume that any oil will live for the duration of extended drain intervals. Mercedes ran into this issue in the mid-2000s with owners using Group 3 instead of the MB recommeneded Group 4 oil for extended oil drain intervals; the damage to these MB engines was as you describe. Same with the mid to late 2000s Toyota 2AZ-FE, if memory serves. Anecdotally, I am very confident in my particular Group 4 oil to use a 15,000 mile drain interval; 138,000 miles over 10 years, runs like a champ.
awesome video sir... i have a 6.0l ls engine in a plumbing van with 400000 miles. used nothing but mobil 1 5/30. interestingly enough i had to use penzoil 5/30 ultra because i could not get my usual engine oil. it burned 5l within 3000km. i changed the oil again and went back to mobil 1. it stopped using oil again. i would love to hear how an engineer might be able to explain that !!
I recall in my Arctic Engineering PE class in 1981 that Mobil 1 was compared to dino oils in the -50F environment. It was so exciting to see the pour results. The Mobil 1 actually drained from the can. The others didn't even begin to dimple until heated up to -20F.
Excellent video! I love how well you explain this whole process, with such clarity and detail. It really gives me peace of mind knowing how well modern oils protect my vehicles. Great work here Jason!
I’d love to see you produce a video on the other side of the lubricants curtain, where Mobil1 (and others) make specialty oils, fuels, etc… specific for the precise tuning and incredibly high stresses put on F1 engines.
Great video into oil testing. As always you explain procedures clearly without oversimplifying the tech. Personally, I have used Mobil1 since it first came out and it's worth every cent for peace of mind.
Reputable 100% synthetic motor oils like Mobil 1, Amsoil, and Pennzoil, will certainly last for 10K-25K miles. However, oil filters should be changed regularly - 3K miles or so.
So you don't believe an oil filter that's rated for 20,000 miles (like the Fram Ultra) would stick be good at 10,000 miles? I change my oil every 5k but I recently left the filter in my engine for 10k and had an oil analysis done. The results showed the filter was still doing it's job quite effectively.
@@njsongwriter First of all, I didn’t mention anything about Fram Ultra oil filters. I see Fram Ultra is rated at 99% efficient at 20 microns and 94% at 10 microns, which are great specs. Depending upon the application, variables such as; oil weight, and oil filter type/ size are the determining factors. Understand?
I think 3k is too early for the average filter. I dried out my filter insert after skipping a change (it had a total of 14k miles on it, 2 7k changes) and i wouldn't want to take it much longer than that, I could see dark spots where fine carbon was caught and random larger specs of carbon. It could probably go longer as it was no where near filthy, but at 3k a filter is barely used.
@@volvo09 The “average” filter is made poorly. A premium filter (usually 1.5X-3X the price) can last longer. I think you’ll change your mind after performing some research. Pay attention to the terms; filter medium, microns and efficient percentage. Furthermore, the only way to accurately check the oil filter is to perform an oil test. The naked eye check really doesn’t mean much.
I'd like to see the inside of an LS based engine after this test. I've heard about engines being pulled at the Junkyard with well over 100k miles and the bearings were all still like new
Jason, regarding the Sequence IIIH Engine Test (ASTM D8111), required by the ILSAC GF-6 and API SP specifications to measure the viscosity increase, where regular Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 EP achieved only a
Very enlightening. I bought my 2021 RAV4 based on this fuel system from Toyota. I also love the egr system taking the exhaust gases post catalytic so the heavy carbon is burned by the catalytic converters before cycling it back into the intake. Kudos to Toyota!!
Modern oil has come a long way in the last 10 years however I’d love to see mobil perform your every day test that includes cold starts short distance and long distance travels…
Another great video, interesting to see the level of testing that goes into it, and this was just three of the many test/standards they have to meet. Thanks 🙏🏽
Mobile 1 continues to be innovative and a great product. I've used that product since the 80's because they have done a great job of educating the people who can provide expert advice. It may cost more on the front end, though it's more of an investment into the life of the vehicle. I have yet to hear of Mobile 1 ever failing someone. Great explanation and video as always!
I believe the Mobil 1(s) now being sold is different in constitution than the first Mobil 1 product that was released for sale to the public back around (1980 or earlier?)
I want to know what happens with an engine that’s had questionable service gets filled with good oil. How quickly do things get back to acceptable ranges, or do they at all?
The oil is just for friction, so its not going to repair anything and it can't remove the carbon build up. Given gunk that is already stuck to the piston and rings and other issues with the engine, it could make Mobil One look like its giving bad performance because you still get blow by among other things. But, it should do its number one job and reduce friction while maintaining it viscosity and keeping further damage occurring to the engine that a previous non performing oil would allow to continue. You'd need to get the engine decarbonized, either in a shop or by using other products that do that.
If the bearings and other surfaces have suffered damaged (metal worn away), then no magic oil change is ever going to fix that. The parts are now out of spec, and while you might be able to slow the degradation with good oil, the parts being out of spec means they are likely moving in ways they weren't designed for, and the wear will continue at an accelerating pace from metal-to-metal contact. If a bearing suffers damage, the damage will not stop building up, because now the bearing isn't the right shape. If a bearing makes contact, especially under load, metal can be deformed, scuffed up, moved around, or removed entirely. You will certainly be able to see the damage if you take it apart, and it will likely feel rough if you run your finger over it. That surface will not get lubricated properly now, even with good oil, and the bearing's days are numbered at that point. Self-destructing bearings will shed metal particles which might damage other bearings or build up in oil ports or high temperature areas like the piston ring area. That's going to be fatal to the rest of the engine eventually.
I had a Dodge Ram 1500 with a 5.9 Gas V8. Always used Mobil 1 from the first oil change. I got over 160,000 mile and the engine sounded like new ; never missed a beat! The body was gone (Rust) on it... but the engine was like new!
Very important video, given engine oil ads focus only on "that is the best oil for your car, bla bla bla". This video unveils the importance of real laboratory tests to "convince" the regular consumer to look after "ILSAC-6" or "Dexo 1 Gen 3" certifications. I was used to purchasing oil 100% synth and 5W30 f(cheapest known brand) for my vehicle ... after this video, i changed my mind
Awesome video! I still have my preferred method and timeframe for oil changes but do like how far modern oils have come. Did Mobil 1 provide any info on oil filters they used and how often they were changed (if at all)?
When I bought my 2007 chevy monte carlo SS back in 2019, The previous owner used Mobile1 5w30 extended performance synthetic oil in it. I have always been a Valvoline fan, but seeing is believing though, and this video proves what I found out also. I'm sticking to the Mobil1 extended performance synthetic stuff for sure! My 1975 chevy truck though, is a different animal. The high performance 400 chevy small block puts out over 375hp and needs a zinc additive, so I run 10-30 conventional racing VR1 oil in her.
@@wespolskaify I get it 25% off MSRP, and shipped to my door. I'm also using Amsoil Transmission and differential fluid. The gas mileage improvement far outweighs it's cost.
Maybe I did not get this, but I think driving 120k miles leaving the engine in very good shape is not as impressive when there are no phases where the engine is cooled down completely thousands of times like a car that is used everyday
Yeah, while it's certainly a decent test, it's most likely short... It dosen't have a few days a week of running back and forth a few miles to the store in winter not letting the engine warm up. Or people who drive all week or longer and never let the engine warm up.
It's a valid concern! I've actually spoken with engineers responsible for validation testing on new engines (these are car manufacturers). One of the tests they run is a cold start, where they cool everything down to negative temperatures, then start, and immediately go wide-open on the engine. Shut it down, cool it off, do it again. And again and again. The testing shows there's really no meaningful wear with modern engine oils over the life of the car. Speaking with OEs (not oil companies), they're very satisfied with current oil tech.
@@EngineeringExplained impressive test. However in real life an engine often sits for a long time before next cold start, where oil has a chance to flow out of the areas its protecting. So the cold start is often a double whammy of wear, cold oil, and less of it. Made worse by how much longer it takes for reinforcements to arrive when oil is cold and slow to pump. The test described only simulates half of the real world double whammy, and perhaps the less important half.
@@russelloppenheimer3970 It takes hours to cool down a 100 lb metal chunk to negative temperatures and the oil is still liquid the entire time so it definitely drains down.
As someone who works at a dealer for 12 years now, if people would just change their oil every 4 - 5,000 miles (regardless of what type/brand it is) you don't have to worry about this useless study. There are so many cars that come in here with 200K even 300K+ using our super cheap Sinopec oil that have changed they're oil at 5,000 or less its whole life with no issues, and lots of cars that change their oil at dealer or oil recommended changes with high grade oil/synthetic oil with bad sludge, loss of oil pressure and or major engine issues because of going 10K+ oil changes. DON'T listen to dealer or oil manufacturer recommended changes, always change your oil at 5K or less for gas cars, 7K or less for diesel no matter the driving conditions are, and you won't have to worry about these issues.
I have been so impressed with I Love Engineering - it's an incredibly useful and inspiring resource for engineers and computer coders like me! I appreciate the thought and effort that goes into creating an effective platform for engineers to learn more about our field. I've found the technical guidance and in-depth materials so helpful and I'm looking forward to taking advantage of more features in the future. Thanks for providing such a great place for engineers to come together and learn!
I wonder how VW engines (direct injection) - most common in Europe - behave in comparison to the Chrysler one in the video. Are they more or less demanding in terms of oil?
It's all relative. The oil requirements are based on a lot of factors such as the displacement of the engine, RPMs/load, as well as the tolerances of main components such as piston rings, journal bearings, etc. The Chrysler engine is just a benchmark, with all of the tolerances known as described in the video. You could use a VW engine if you wanted.
What a freaking awesome video! I really enjoy learning about these kind of things. I have a modern German VAG car and the oil change interval is 10K miles with a good synthetic oil...Mind blowing and to think it wasn't that long ago we were told to change oil every 3 - 5000 miles! Wow...
I use mobile one emission systems protection 5w30 in my Cadillac ATS 2.0T. Zzp recommends that oil for the LTG engine. I run their parts on my car and tune.
I feel like these oil tests should be more stringent or have a way to differentiate between oils. Chevron Supreme, a $14 synthetic blend, meets ILSAC GF-6A and API SP requirements just like this expensive mobil 1.
Mobil were one of the first to get into synthetic oils because of their involvement in aerospace with their demands for high oxidation resistance in hot environments. Certainly gave them a lead. One of their favourite tests then was the spinning disc test where a thin film was applied to a disc and exposed to high temps. No doubt it is a premium product but I reckon that other brand synthetic oils can now work well without the price premium. It takes a lot of engineering to stretch out the life of the oil even more.
Good coverage on how Mobil tests their oils. No info on how it fairs against any other oils bc they are not created equal. It would be great to see which oils develop worse piston varnish and deposits and which are better. I had a turbo fail when using Mobil 1 10 yrs ago. I’ll never use it again. Lots of great success with other oils backed up with Blackstone testing too.
Full disclosure, I've been using Mobil-1 for 21 years now, because I raced Porsches and seen one make it back to the pits with a holed radiator. Essentially on the residuals of the synthetic oil left oil. I also use Shell Rotella T6 on my old engines. While these tests are interesting and good piece of mind, I keep telling people, change your oil often. At least once a year. I have vehicles that get barely a hundred miles a year. I change that oil every spring. Right around now. I have old trucks, tractors, garden tractors, you name it. I've replaced valve cover gaskets and seen the top end of every engine. No sludge. I was a GM mechanic in the past and have seen new vehicles with sludge because the owners were cheap and/or lazy. I remember a one year old C6 at the time, went to change the oil and the cap and plug had sludge already on it's first oil change. Breaks my heart... And yes, clean fuel and maintenance make a difference.
@Engineering Explained, great video! Now do air filters, oil filters, coolant, brake pads, etc. Most significantly, how the average person can look at the myriad options at an auto parts store and determine which are top choices.
This more a testimony about reliability of the Toyota than the oil :) Not all oils are equal but even more so cars. So here's the thing - buy a Toyota, use fully synthetic only, change it every 15 thousand kilometers or once a year, and you'll be fine.
YES!! this is want we need more of! Thank you! so many people these days still running their mouth "hurr durr oil is just oil, you don't need to follow the spec ratings"
Although the intake valves on the DI engines are an issue, a bigger issue is the piston rings. At 3:22 that oil control ring gets packed with sludge and gets stuck. This has been an issue since manufactures switched to low friction piston rings. As this happens you get increased oil consumption, decreased fuel economy, and eventually you will notice smoke when the engine is cold. As car makers continue to push the limits to increase fuel economy, it's more important than ever for engine oil development to keep up.
I love this stuff. I like ams oil. Use there products when I can but I have consistently used this mobile 1 oil. I've looked in my engine and have torn things apart and this is what I have found in my vehicles. All he has shown and said fall inline with what I've found. Inspection scopes are the bomb for this stuff.
I’m a big time fan of yours, and as a Subaru WRX owner, And avid longtime Mobil 1 fan, I found it interesting that you also own a Subaru, and use Mobil 1 products. I hear most people say that the Subaru motors are junk. I tend to disagree, and seeing an intelligent engineer car guy own one, it made me wonder what your thoughts were on the Subaru motors reliability, and why you use Mobil 1 oils?
my neighbor uses the cheapest oil, changes at 15.000km, and makes he's tyre's scream right after starting the engine in the morning. 15 year old Car, short commute and high mileage ...still no problem. some people have luck to compensate for what they don't know 😂
Just because it's still running doesn't mean hes not causing damage by doing that, I would bet if we did a tear down of that engine we would find the tolerances all out of spec, the engine making significantly less power than it's supposed to, with significantly more fuel consumption and blow by.
@@estamnar6092 I want to believe that too ...I'm a Mobil1 user and I meticulously apply everything I have learned about car's and their engine's. Hope to benefit from my methods
I agree. I learned from personal experience that Castrol Edge FST titanium 5w30 LL is better oil than Mobil ESP 5w30, Valvoline Synnpower XL-iii C3 5w30. When I cold start my old Audi 3.0l V6 ASN gasoline engine with Castrol it starts up nicely. When I cold start same engine with Mobil or Valvoline it starts up rougher and sounds like a diesel engine.
@@roshawn1111 write some are better than others. It’s still a naturally aspirated engine, though I would like to see a direct injection turbo charged engine in the test.
So, in this instance with testing the RAV4 - if the oil were changed appropriately it may have been 10s all the way around? As I understand it, when the oil becomes overly saturated with polutants - they will eventually find there way onto components and especially stick onto the intake valve(s). Very well done, as per usual!!!
I drove a 1992 toyota pickup 22re 4 cyl engine 485,000 miles then measured cylinder compression and examined the valve train for wear. Compression was still as high and even as on a new 22re engine. I could not see or feel any valve train wear on the parts most susceptible to wear like the tips of the valve adjustment screws, camshaft lobes or rocker arm pads. I used Mobil 1 10W-40 high mileage changed every 5,000 miles.
Jason, while the content is fascinating, I feel like I am being sold a bunch of Mobil1 marketing propaganda under the guise of independence. Seems to be a bit of a conflict of interest here.
Not sure what you're implying, I clearly state Mobil 1 is sponsoring the content at the beginning of the video (as I've done with any sponsored video). There's no guise. I'm always open about sponsorship.
Actually they should test the performance of their own products, should they not? It's part of research and development. And knowing they do this builds confidence in their products.
Toyota D-4S FTW!!!! Thank you for mentioning that, I honestly feel like Toyotas D-4S system is really underrated and overlooked by so many enthusiasts and car reviewers. Want a solution to carbon build up? Get a Toyota product.
I've been using Mobil 1 for a while. Not really because I think it's better or anything, but because Costco has a decent price and I know Mobil 1 is not some off-brand cheap oil. There's probably other brands that are just as good. Many years ago I saw the test stands at Mercedes in Stuttgart courtesy of my mechanical engineering degree. That was an interesting visit to the factory. As far as I remember it looked a lot like the test stands in this video.
When you say continuous research that implies research going forward. Which as someone that works in the field I can tell you funding for light and medium duty engines has been cut drastically this year with the government's move towards electric vehicles. So with a lot lower restrictions on heavy duty engine emissions I would say the research on this sort of thing will go down steeply even by private companies. Just just a little insight from someone in the field where a lot of this research was done and some still continues but not near the levels of previous years.
I'll let you in on a dirty little secret. Just about any modern engine would be similar. Think about why people get rid of their cars. It's almost never because the engine failed. They get crashed, stolen, have other problems or people just want something newer.
Mobil One is advertised as fully synthetic, but its not even synthetic oil, just highly refined oil with special additives I still use it for the last 30 years because it is pretty good oil.
I’d be curious to see where the other manufacturers stack up against this testing. (Amsoil, royal purple, Castrol, valvoline)I’ve been using Pennzoil Platinum pretty religiously because they advertise it’s made from natural gas.
Sorry? Oil made from natural gas? That sounds like marketing hot air. Oil comes from lower down the cracking column whereas fuels come from higher up the column.
It's pretty impressive how much actually goes into motor oil. Shout out to Mobil 1 for giving us so many peeks behind the curtain. Gives a lot of confidence to the customer when a company is that open.
I used mobile 1 once it caused lifter tap i flushed it out and went right back to valvoline, mobile 1 is overrated
They really aren't... Open about the results.... Companies like amsoil clearly print the performance results such as Noack volatility (the test that separates the men from the boys in oil)
@@shadowopsairman1583 have you tried Amsoil???
Lubrication is a heavily underrated aspect of engineering
While I do find all these methods of testing and their results extremely impressive.. I do wonder why they don’t have any tests that simulate short drives where the engine is cooled off and heated back up frequently, as the constant heat cycling of engines is really the hardest on them.
They do sort of simulate that with running the engine oil and coolant extremely cold for a long duration
I agree, 120,000 miles accumulated in 6 months with very little interruption is very different from 120,000 miles accumulated over 10 years with thousands of complete cooling cycles.
That’s why they had the cooled engine to simulate that
Keep in mind we're watching just three of the many, many tests required for these certifications.
The only thing that they didn't test out was the effect of corrosion/effect of the nature over a prolonged period of time and those sorta things happen only with time. And the effect of time on oils. They changed oil every month or so in these tests (20k miles every month ie 120k miles for 6 months) is my assumption. And oil oxidises with time and could impact the test results.
Wow, this is very impressive. Excited for them to release Mobil 2!
haha this made me giggle
Yeah, this thing is way too old!
And after that Mobil 3!
Mobil 2 is when you reuse Mobil 1. Source: Bitog.
I thought it died in the end?
My Grandfather worked for Mobil oil doing lubricant testing, He retired in 1974 After 30yrs. I wish I had asked him more questions about his experience.
I don't remember much. I think at the time the facility was in long Island City. All I could think of while watching this is him doing this work so long ago. Thank You
12:00 ... exactly why I subscribe. I was afraid you were going to say the oil made the difference in those intake valves when it's clearly just the port injection cleaning them up. Thanks for doing what you do so honestly.
It depends on the direct injection
@@dragospahontu Toyota uses dual port and direct and there is a reason why they don't just use DI alone like Honda and Mazda for instance.
@@abraham3981 it's not a big issue
Definitely worth whatever it costs them to bring you out, us gear heads really appreciate the transparency and deeper explanations that can't be put on a bottle label.
One parameter has been omitted in this testing. Time. Over time, over so many kilometers, the results might be different due to heat/cool cycles which play a huge role in oil's behaviour.
Not to mention moisture buildup from condensation in cooler weather and/or cooler overnight temps.
Synthetic oil testing is a gimmick. They could never do long-term test because synthetic oil can't boil off moisture at lower temp. The results is acidic oil, internal corrosion and faster wears. Synthetic oil shear-ability is low and this causes more issue with catalytic converter and O2 as well. All these stuff can be google it all online.
I used to be brand loyal on motor oil, but now any of the big name brands works for me. I agree, overall oil has improved significantly. Very interesting video and thanks to Mobil 1 for inviting you!
Thank you and Mobil 1 for illustrating so much
Takeaways.
1. Use a highest rated oil from a top & trustworthy manufacturer.
2. Cut the auto & oil manufacturers intervals to the heavy use interval.
3. Keep car tuned up. Fix running problems.
4. Don't run motor cold. Especially loaded.
5. Run a top tier fuel
6. Avoid direct injected engines.
7. Buy much older or late model Toyotas.
I’m not using Mobil 1 because of cost, but the one I’m using meets the API highest standards because I learn from you Jason. Thanks!
You're very welcome, José, thanks for watching!
SuperTech Full Synthetic. Been using it on my cars for years w/o any issues, and it costs pennies. Can't beat that.
I have no idea which oil is best. When I started using filters that clean oil in 1963 I was using Standard Delo 30 weight winter grade. It was 29 cents at the discount stores. Multi grades didnt hold up in those days. Couldnt use them in a diesel engine. In those days I changed the Frantz oil cleaner about every 2 000 miles and added a quart of Delo. We used toilet paper in those days. Todays toilet paper doesnt fit the Frantz. All I have now is Gulf Coasts and Motor Guards. I just installed a Australian Jackmaster. Its the best one in production. I had to remove a Motor Guard to install the Jackmaster. Had to try the Jackmaster. Looks good. I knew it was superior before I installed it. They have a nice fabric covered element. Ive been using Great Value 1000 from Walmart. Ive been using the Super Tech 20 000 mile oil. Some say it is made by the same company that makes Mobil 1. Doesnt make it the same oil but probably makes it a quality oil. I removed the Jackmaster element and installed toilet paper. I will use the factory element later. I got the classic model. Need a wrench to remove the lid. I dont drain oil. I might if I got a leaky head gasket or something like that. I drive enough to keep the fuel and water removed thru the PCV valve. Here in the Dallas area I change the filter about every 6 K miles. Mostly highway. Same oil and filters in everything that has an oil pump.
@@ralphwood8818 There have been numerous reviews and studies comparing SuperTech to Mobil1, and almost every one of them down the line puts them on the same level (save for the price point). And yes, the oil comes from the same producer, so the only difference would be the detergents that are added I would think.
@@EngineeringExplained Where I'm at, Mobile 1 is one of the cheaper oils on the market, but continually receives praise as being one of the best. Any thoughts on why it's cheaper AND better? Usually you don't see good stuff being less expensive.
I've used Mobil1 on my 2005 Chevy Trailblazer 4.2L since new - Currently has 247k miles on the original factory sealed engine.
I've used castrol Gtx, 10 30 oil for 338.000 miles in my 94 Trans Am since new. Runs like new, uses no oil, engine never been touched, even the timing chain is original.
@@johnfranklin5277 that’s awesome!
@@v8pontiacvent Thanks! Your doing very well too. Let's keep doing what we're doing, its working!
As it happens I use M1 Extended 0W20 in our new cars.
What the video doesn't say, is that any brand that meets those standards should be just as good as M1 up to the performance rating by the manufacturer.
So, as long as you trust the brand putting the standards on their labels, you're good to go.
I'd also like to know how oil co's, guarantee that their production meets these standards from day to day, week to week ... ie: maintain and monitor the quality over many, many "batches" of oil over the years. (is it batches? Continuous?).
That's not entirely true. The specifications set minimum performance criteria. So any oil that meets the spec will guarantee performance to a level "X", but there will be plenty of oils that exceed that performance level, allowing longer drains less wear etc. As for quality control, there's plenty of batch testing that is done at the manufacturing plants to ensure consistent quality of final product. There's also full traceability that goes into the manufacture - so theoretically if there was a warranty claim that pointed to the oil being at fault they can trace it all the way back to date of manufacture.
@@LubricationExplained
What do you think "up to the performance rating of the manufacturer" meant>
@@LubricationExplained I would point out that there is no need to use an oil that EXCEEDS the manufactuers requirments as long as you follow their service guidlines as stated in the owners manual. The engin is not going to perform any better.
These new GF6 oils are fantastic, a big step over GF5.
Automotive technician here, and yes I'm sure under the right conditions Mobil 1s oil can work on these longer mileage intervals and it's very impressive. HOWEVER there are a thousand different variables that cannot be controlled or tested for in the real world that your car will be exposed to. Modern engines have very tight tolerances when it comes to the need for oil, and all it takes is a slip second with less than ideal oil condition to permanently damage your engine. I have seen particularly on kia's or Hyundai 2.0 turbo motors chew threw turbos in under 30k miles because the owner was doing 7 or 8 thousand mile oil changes. Most Subarus are going to burn through at least a quart of oil in a 5k mile oil change interval, and that would get worse with more and more distance put on that oil. Long story short just do your oil changes every 5k miles, really it's not that hard and it's the bare minimum to keep your engine In good health. I have a job because people can't do their oil changes on time, save your self the money in the future and do your oil changes.
I remember doing 10k intervals on my toyota echo with Mobile 1 fully synthetic due to the packaging statement lol. Luckily I didn't run into an issue, but eventually started following the Echo's manuals 7,500 interval just to be safe after reading up on Fuel Dilution of motor oils. As a non-automotive tech, sounds like by the very design of direct injection and the piston rings over time fuel gets passed the rings and seeps into the oil pan which over time will dilute the oil and dilute the oils ability to remain as viscous, not to mention at its worst actually wash away the oil from the piston/ports.
those are not oil issues those are manufacture problems and junk engines
I'm sorry Subarus burn through a quart of oil? Beside belonging to my local subie club and never seeing these issues. I do all my own oil changes and with my 2018 crosstrek I bought new I've done 6k mile oil changes with a 7k when I had to drive long distances on short notice for the military and one 10k oil change when I was deeply depressed. I have litterally never seen and oil level drop and I am now over 60k miles.
You might say I am a sample size of one but you are also a sample size of one, and subject to the same biases if you Hear this stuff from your colleagues, as when I dont hear issues from my friends.
@Nathan - What group oil is being used? Group 3, Group 3+ or Group 4? Group 3 in a turbo beyond 3500 miles between oil changes is a recipie for failure. For those of us old enough to remember the 1979 Fox chassis Mustang and the original 2.3 Lima turbo engines, those engines had a recommended oil drain interval of 1500 miles due to oil coking issues. A lot of people assume that any oil will live for the duration of extended drain intervals. Mercedes ran into this issue in the mid-2000s with owners using Group 3 instead of the MB recommeneded Group 4 oil for extended oil drain intervals; the damage to these MB engines was as you describe. Same with the mid to late 2000s Toyota 2AZ-FE, if memory serves. Anecdotally, I am very confident in my particular Group 4 oil to use a 15,000 mile drain interval; 138,000 miles over 10 years, runs like a champ.
Honda's engineers are who I listen to.
awesome video sir... i have a 6.0l ls engine in a plumbing van with 400000 miles. used nothing but mobil 1 5/30. interestingly enough i had to use penzoil 5/30 ultra because i could not get my usual engine oil. it burned 5l within 3000km. i changed the oil again and went back to mobil 1. it stopped using oil again. i would love to hear how an engineer might be able to explain that !!
I recall in my Arctic Engineering PE class in 1981 that Mobil 1 was compared to dino oils in the -50F environment. It was so exciting to see the pour results. The Mobil 1 actually drained from the can. The others didn't even begin to dimple until heated up to -20F.
I've used Mobil1 oils and filters in all my cars ever since I've owned my first vehicle. Never been let down.
Brilliant video, the capability of modern engines and oils is astounding.
Unfortunately it doesn't do much if anything for DI non turbo engines, as far as tops of intake valves.
Excellent video! I love how well you explain this whole process, with such clarity and detail. It really gives me peace of mind knowing how well modern oils protect my vehicles. Great work here Jason!
Thanks, Steve!
All oils ARE created equal. The ADDITIVES thrown into them is what makes the difference!
I’d love to see you produce a video on the other side of the lubricants curtain, where Mobil1 (and others) make specialty oils, fuels, etc… specific for the precise tuning and incredibly high stresses put on F1 engines.
Great video into oil testing. As always you explain procedures clearly without oversimplifying the tech. Personally, I have used Mobil1 since it first came out and it's worth every cent for peace of mind.
Reputable 100% synthetic motor oils like Mobil 1, Amsoil, and Pennzoil, will certainly last for 10K-25K miles. However, oil filters should be changed regularly - 3K miles or so.
So you don't believe an oil filter that's rated for 20,000 miles (like the Fram Ultra) would stick be good at 10,000 miles?
I change my oil every 5k but I recently left the filter in my engine for 10k and had an oil analysis done. The results showed the filter was still doing it's job quite effectively.
Yes. Standard direct injection carbon deposits dirty up the oil significantly.
@@njsongwriter
First of all, I didn’t mention anything about Fram Ultra oil filters.
I see Fram Ultra is rated at 99% efficient at 20 microns and 94% at 10 microns, which are great specs. Depending upon the application, variables such as; oil weight, and oil filter type/ size are the determining factors. Understand?
I think 3k is too early for the average filter.
I dried out my filter insert after skipping a change (it had a total of 14k miles on it, 2 7k changes) and i wouldn't want to take it much longer than that, I could see dark spots where fine carbon was caught and random larger specs of carbon. It could probably go longer as it was no where near filthy, but at 3k a filter is barely used.
@@volvo09
The “average” filter is made poorly. A premium filter (usually 1.5X-3X the price) can last longer.
I think you’ll change your mind after performing some research. Pay attention to the terms; filter medium, microns and efficient percentage.
Furthermore, the only way to accurately check the oil filter is to perform an oil test. The naked eye check really doesn’t mean much.
Great stuff. Took me straight back to my engine durability testing days. That Toyota engine is very impressive.
I'd like to see the inside of an LS based engine after this test. I've heard about engines being pulled at the Junkyard with well over 100k miles and the bearings were all still like new
Jason, regarding the Sequence IIIH Engine Test (ASTM D8111), required by the ILSAC GF-6 and API SP specifications to measure the viscosity increase, where regular Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 EP achieved only a
Very enlightening. I bought my 2021 RAV4 based on this fuel system from Toyota. I also love the egr system taking the exhaust gases post catalytic so the heavy carbon is burned by the catalytic converters before cycling it back into the intake. Kudos to Toyota!!
I just watched a video of yours from 10 years ago with your whiteboard and man did you ever get better at film and editing. Good job fella 💯
Modern oil has come a long way in the last 10 years however I’d love to see mobil perform your every day test that includes cold starts short distance and long distance travels…
You don't seem to understand the tests they presented... are far worse than your proposed "tests".
Another great video, interesting to see the level of testing that goes into it, and this was just three of the many test/standards they have to meet. Thanks 🙏🏽
Mobile 1 continues to be innovative and a great product. I've used that product since the 80's because they have done a great job of educating the people who can provide expert advice. It may cost more on the front end, though it's more of an investment into the life of the vehicle. I have yet to hear of Mobile 1 ever failing someone. Great explanation and video as always!
I believe the Mobil 1(s) now being sold is different in constitution than the first Mobil 1 product that was released for sale to the public back around (1980 or earlier?)
Sluge expert would be an awesome job description
I want to know what happens with an engine that’s had questionable service gets filled with good oil. How quickly do things get back to acceptable ranges, or do they at all?
The oil is just for friction, so its not going to repair anything and it can't remove the carbon build up. Given gunk that is already stuck to the piston and rings and other issues with the engine, it could make Mobil One look like its giving bad performance because you still get blow by among other things. But, it should do its number one job and reduce friction while maintaining it viscosity and keeping further damage occurring to the engine that a previous non performing oil would allow to continue. You'd need to get the engine decarbonized, either in a shop or by using other products that do that.
Overtime the oil cleans up whatever varnish and deposits were formed but never 100%
If the bearings and other surfaces have suffered damaged (metal worn away), then no magic oil change is ever going to fix that. The parts are now out of spec, and while you might be able to slow the degradation with good oil, the parts being out of spec means they are likely moving in ways they weren't designed for, and the wear will continue at an accelerating pace from metal-to-metal contact. If a bearing suffers damage, the damage will not stop building up, because now the bearing isn't the right shape. If a bearing makes contact, especially under load, metal can be deformed, scuffed up, moved around, or removed entirely. You will certainly be able to see the damage if you take it apart, and it will likely feel rough if you run your finger over it. That surface will not get lubricated properly now, even with good oil, and the bearing's days are numbered at that point. Self-destructing bearings will shed metal particles which might damage other bearings or build up in oil ports or high temperature areas like the piston ring area. That's going to be fatal to the rest of the engine eventually.
I had a Dodge Ram 1500 with a 5.9 Gas V8. Always used Mobil 1 from the first oil change. I got over 160,000 mile and the engine sounded like new ; never missed a beat! The body was gone (Rust) on it... but the engine was like new!
i was trying to find how engine oils are made for every specific engine, its a Rnd intense field so i could not find much, this video is gold
Very important video, given engine oil ads focus only on "that is the best oil for your car, bla bla bla". This video unveils the importance of real laboratory tests to "convince" the regular consumer to look after "ILSAC-6" or "Dexo 1 Gen 3" certifications. I was used to purchasing oil 100% synth and 5W30 f(cheapest known brand) for my vehicle ... after this video, i changed my mind
Awesome video! I still have my preferred method and timeframe for oil changes but do like how far modern oils have come. Did Mobil 1 provide any info on oil filters they used and how often they were changed (if at all)?
When I bought my 2007 chevy monte carlo SS back in 2019, The previous owner used Mobile1 5w30 extended performance synthetic oil in it. I have always been a Valvoline fan, but seeing is believing though, and this video proves what I found out also. I'm sticking to the Mobil1 extended performance synthetic stuff for sure! My 1975 chevy truck though, is a different animal. The high performance 400 chevy small block puts out over 375hp and needs a zinc additive, so I run 10-30 conventional racing VR1 oil in her.
Until Amsoil lets me down, I'll be sticking with them.
Agree, it's the price! Raised again,3 weeks ago
@@wespolskaify I get it 25% off MSRP, and shipped to my door. I'm also using Amsoil Transmission and differential fluid. The gas mileage improvement far outweighs it's cost.
Very impressive didn't know oil companies did so much testing, gives you a great deal of confidence in Mobil oil,will loom to purchase same in future!
Maybe I did not get this, but I think driving 120k miles leaving the engine in very good shape is not as impressive when there are no phases where the engine is cooled down completely thousands of times like a car that is used everyday
Yeah, while it's certainly a decent test, it's most likely short... It dosen't have a few days a week of running back and forth a few miles to the store in winter not letting the engine warm up.
Or people who drive all week or longer and never let the engine warm up.
Ikr. Around 70% engine wear occurs during cold starts.
It's a valid concern! I've actually spoken with engineers responsible for validation testing on new engines (these are car manufacturers). One of the tests they run is a cold start, where they cool everything down to negative temperatures, then start, and immediately go wide-open on the engine. Shut it down, cool it off, do it again. And again and again. The testing shows there's really no meaningful wear with modern engine oils over the life of the car. Speaking with OEs (not oil companies), they're very satisfied with current oil tech.
@@EngineeringExplained impressive test. However in real life an engine often sits for a long time before next cold start, where oil has a chance to flow out of the areas its protecting.
So the cold start is often a double whammy of wear, cold oil, and less of it. Made worse by how much longer it takes for reinforcements to arrive when oil is cold and slow to pump.
The test described only simulates half of the real world double whammy, and perhaps the less important half.
@@russelloppenheimer3970 It takes hours to cool down a 100 lb metal chunk to negative temperatures and the oil is still liquid the entire time so it definitely drains down.
Mobile 1 was factory fill on my 05 Lancer Evo. zero problems on it even at 150k miles. Only used Mobile 1 or Royal purple in it.
As someone who works at a dealer for 12 years now, if people would just change their oil every 4 - 5,000 miles (regardless of what type/brand it is) you don't have to worry about this useless study. There are so many cars that come in here with 200K even 300K+ using our super cheap Sinopec oil that have changed they're oil at 5,000 or less its whole life with no issues, and lots of cars that change their oil at dealer or oil recommended changes with high grade oil/synthetic oil with bad sludge, loss of oil pressure and or major engine issues because of going 10K+ oil changes.
DON'T listen to dealer or oil manufacturer recommended changes, always change your oil at 5K or less for gas cars, 7K or less for diesel no matter the driving conditions are, and you won't have to worry about these issues.
I change mine at around 1500 miles and use Mobil one. I drive mostly highway miles as I live outside of town. I hope my car last a long time.
@@johnd4348 If you're doing highway you can do at least 3k.
On that high mileage oil, the back of the jug/ bottle says follow your manufacturer's oil change interval recommendations...
Direct injection only engines are such a shortcut by car makers
I have been so impressed with I Love Engineering - it's an incredibly useful and inspiring resource for engineers and computer coders like me! I appreciate the thought and effort that goes into creating an effective platform for engineers to learn more about our field. I've found the technical guidance and in-depth materials so helpful and I'm looking forward to taking advantage of more features in the future. Thanks for providing such a great place for engineers to come together and learn!
I wonder how VW engines (direct injection) - most common in Europe - behave in comparison to the Chrysler one in the video. Are they more or less demanding in terms of oil?
They broke down too much.
It's all relative. The oil requirements are based on a lot of factors such as the displacement of the engine, RPMs/load, as well as the tolerances of main components such as piston rings, journal bearings, etc. The Chrysler engine is just a benchmark, with all of the tolerances known as described in the video. You could use a VW engine if you wanted.
What a freaking awesome video! I really enjoy learning about these kind of things. I have a modern German VAG car and the oil change interval is 10K miles with a good synthetic oil...Mind blowing and to think it wasn't that long ago we were told to change oil every 3 - 5000 miles! Wow...
Another GREAT Vid Jason, appreciated, and shout out to Mobil1 for their transparency proving the products worth.
I use mobile one emission systems protection 5w30 in my Cadillac ATS 2.0T.
Zzp recommends that oil for the LTG engine. I run their parts on my car and tune.
Love this type of content Jason, keep it coming!
Literally just bought Mobil 1 Extended Performance a day ago. Glad I did
I feel like these oil tests should be more stringent or have a way to differentiate between oils. Chevron Supreme, a $14 synthetic blend, meets ILSAC GF-6A and API SP requirements just like this expensive mobil 1.
Mobil were one of the first to get into synthetic oils because of their involvement in aerospace with their demands for high oxidation resistance in hot environments. Certainly gave them a lead. One of their favourite tests then was the spinning disc test where a thin film was applied to a disc and exposed to high temps. No doubt it is a premium product but I reckon that other brand synthetic oils can now work well without the price premium. It takes a lot of engineering to stretch out the life of the oil even more.
828 views in 7 minutes?! Not bad for not having a whiteboard. 😏
Good coverage on how Mobil tests their oils. No info on how it fairs against any other oils bc they are not created equal. It would be great to see which oils develop worse piston varnish and deposits and which are better. I had a turbo fail when using Mobil 1 10 yrs ago. I’ll never use it again. Lots of great success with other oils backed up with Blackstone testing too.
Full disclosure, I've been using Mobil-1 for 21 years now, because I raced Porsches and seen one make it back to the pits with a holed radiator. Essentially on the residuals of the synthetic oil left oil. I also use Shell Rotella T6 on my old engines. While these tests are interesting and good piece of mind, I keep telling people, change your oil often. At least once a year. I have vehicles that get barely a hundred miles a year. I change that oil every spring. Right around now. I have old trucks, tractors, garden tractors, you name it. I've replaced valve cover gaskets and seen the top end of every engine. No sludge. I was a GM mechanic in the past and have seen new vehicles with sludge because the owners were cheap and/or lazy. I remember a one year old C6 at the time, went to change the oil and the cap and plug had sludge already on it's first oil change. Breaks my heart...
And yes, clean fuel and maintenance make a difference.
Parts store shelf??? Come on. we all know that everyone, even mechanics buy their Mobil 1 at walmart
It will be great to see a video with this quality about molibdeno oil additives like liqui moly
Amsoil signature. Only way to go.
@Engineering Explained, great video! Now do air filters, oil filters, coolant, brake pads, etc. Most significantly, how the average person can look at the myriad options at an auto parts store and determine which are top choices.
This more a testimony about reliability of the Toyota than the oil :) Not all oils are equal but even more so cars.
So here's the thing - buy a Toyota, use fully synthetic only, change it every 15 thousand kilometers or once a year, and you'll be fine.
YES!! this is want we need more of! Thank you! so many people these days still running their mouth "hurr durr oil is just oil, you don't need to follow the spec ratings"
Although the intake valves on the DI engines are an issue, a bigger issue is the piston rings. At 3:22 that oil control ring gets packed with sludge and gets stuck. This has been an issue since manufactures switched to low friction piston rings. As this happens you get increased oil consumption, decreased fuel economy, and eventually you will notice smoke when the engine is cold. As car makers continue to push the limits to increase fuel economy, it's more important than ever for engine oil development to keep up.
Jason, can you kindly do a review/video on the stp pro-series intake valve cleaner with the egg timer thing? Looks like your vehicle could use it!
I love this stuff. I like ams oil. Use there products when I can but I have consistently used this mobile 1 oil. I've looked in my engine and have torn things apart and this is what I have found in my vehicles. All he has shown and said fall inline with what I've found. Inspection scopes are the bomb for this stuff.
I’m a big time fan of yours, and as a Subaru WRX owner, And avid longtime Mobil 1 fan, I found it interesting that you also own a Subaru, and use Mobil 1 products. I hear most people say that the Subaru motors are junk. I tend to disagree, and seeing an intelligent engineer car guy own one, it made me wonder what your thoughts were on the Subaru motors reliability, and why you use Mobil 1 oils?
Thanks for the continued great content. I guess this explains my Yukon with over 400k miles on it. I run Mobile 1 in all my vehicles.
I'm a Castrol Man, no hate to Mobil1
My car calls for Castrol but I use Mobil 1
Motul X-Cess 8100 Gen2 for my modified, turbo'd DD. Flawless.
Really glad I’ve already been using Mobil one, the guaranteed for 20k miles stuff. Always do it every 5 though with filter.
my neighbor uses the cheapest oil, changes at 15.000km, and makes he's tyre's scream right after starting the engine in the morning.
15 year old Car, short commute and high mileage ...still no problem.
some people have luck to compensate for what they don't know 😂
Just because it's still running doesn't mean hes not causing damage by doing that, I would bet if we did a tear down of that engine we would find the tolerances all out of spec, the engine making significantly less power than it's supposed to, with significantly more fuel consumption and blow by.
@@estamnar6092 I want to believe that too ...I'm a Mobil1 user and I meticulously apply everything I have learned about car's and their engine's.
Hope to benefit from my methods
This was so much better than watching another cold flow test.
Yeah, the A25A-FKS! We have that in our Rav4 Hybrid
Amsoil is watching: Good job Mobile 1 now you doing something!
I agree. I learned from personal experience that Castrol Edge FST titanium 5w30 LL is better oil than Mobil ESP 5w30, Valvoline Synnpower XL-iii C3 5w30. When I cold start my old Audi 3.0l V6 ASN gasoline engine with Castrol it starts up nicely. When I cold start same engine with Mobil or Valvoline it starts up rougher and sounds like a diesel engine.
@4:48 thought something was on my screen kept scratching it… realized soon after it was in the video🤦♂️😂😂
test flawed they used a Toyota LOL
Why?😊
@@thetechlibrarian everyone knows they can survive a nuke lol
@@roshawn1111 write some are better than others. It’s still a naturally aspirated engine, though I would like to see a direct injection turbo charged engine in the test.
ya if they used a ford escape, it would die before the test was completed lmao
So, in this instance with testing the RAV4 - if the oil were changed appropriately it may have been 10s all the way around?
As I understand it, when the oil becomes overly saturated with polutants - they will eventually find there way onto components and especially stick onto the intake valve(s).
Very well done, as per usual!!!
I drove a 1992 toyota pickup 22re 4 cyl engine 485,000 miles then measured cylinder compression and examined the valve train for wear. Compression was still as high and even as on a new 22re engine. I could not see or feel any valve train wear on the parts most susceptible to wear like the tips of the valve adjustment screws, camshaft lobes or rocker arm pads. I used Mobil 1 10W-40 high mileage changed every 5,000 miles.
Jason, while the content is fascinating, I feel like I am being sold a bunch of Mobil1 marketing propaganda under the guise of independence. Seems to be a bit of a conflict of interest here.
Not sure what you're implying, I clearly state Mobil 1 is sponsoring the content at the beginning of the video (as I've done with any sponsored video). There's no guise. I'm always open about sponsorship.
Actually they should test the performance of their own products, should they not? It's part of research and development. And knowing they do this builds confidence in their products.
Most oil will have these designations API SP, ILSAC GF-6, and Dexos Gen 3 Certifications on the bottle. Even auto parts oil like Oriellys has it.
Hello everyone and welcome !
At the end,intake valve deposits have more to do with the fuel used than with the oil used unless the engine has an oil burning problem.
Sold! Engineering Explained to Mobil Oil for an unknown sum.
Toyota D-4S FTW!!!! Thank you for mentioning that, I honestly feel like Toyotas D-4S system is really underrated and overlooked by so many enthusiasts and car reviewers. Want a solution to carbon build up? Get a Toyota product.
Pretty interesting I see penzoil platinum as a good oil too.
I've been using Mobil 1 for a while. Not really because I think it's better or anything, but because Costco has a decent price and I know Mobil 1 is not some off-brand cheap oil. There's probably other brands that are just as good. Many years ago I saw the test stands at Mercedes in Stuttgart courtesy of my mechanical engineering degree. That was an interesting visit to the factory. As far as I remember it looked a lot like the test stands in this video.
When you say continuous research that implies research going forward. Which as someone that works in the field I can tell you funding for light and medium duty engines has been cut drastically this year with the government's move towards electric vehicles. So with a lot lower restrictions on heavy duty engine emissions I would say the research on this sort of thing will go down steeply even by private companies. Just just a little insight from someone in the field where a lot of this research was done and some still continues but not near the levels of previous years.
That’s impressive. Especially the nonexistent wear on the bearings and lack of carbon on the intake valves after 190,000km.
I'll let you in on a dirty little secret. Just about any modern engine would be similar. Think about why people get rid of their cars. It's almost never because the engine failed. They get crashed, stolen, have other problems or people just want something newer.
Mobil One is advertised as fully synthetic, but its not even synthetic oil, just highly refined oil with special additives I still use it for the last 30 years because it is pretty good oil.
Excellent video. your way of explanation is really wonderful.
Soccer moms with a Toyota sienna that exclusively drive to the kids park and Costco right now:
I gotta get that Mobile One oil for extreme conditions
I’d be curious to see where the other manufacturers stack up against this testing. (Amsoil, royal purple, Castrol, valvoline)I’ve been using Pennzoil Platinum pretty religiously because they advertise it’s made from natural gas.
Sorry? Oil made from natural gas? That sounds like marketing hot air. Oil comes from lower down the cracking column whereas fuels come from higher up the column.
@@johnangelico667yes, it is a Shell thing. GTL is cheaper and almost as good as PAO.
And Mobile1 is what I've been using for a while now. 👍
Sludge abd barnish inspector. Now I want to do that job too
This video is very much appreciated.
I had no idea that there as so much to testing.
I’m glad to know this. I’ve always used Mobil 1 in all of my gas vehicles 😎🤙
This is a very interesting video but I miss the whiteboard and in person presentation.
Yeah the port injection is one of my favorite parts of the D4S System