It's pretty impressive how much actually goes into motor oil. Shout out to Mobil 1 for giving us so many peeks behind the curtain. Gives a lot of confidence to the customer when a company is that open.
They really aren't... Open about the results.... Companies like amsoil clearly print the performance results such as Noack volatility (the test that separates the men from the boys in oil)
While I do find all these methods of testing and their results extremely impressive.. I do wonder why they don’t have any tests that simulate short drives where the engine is cooled off and heated back up frequently, as the constant heat cycling of engines is really the hardest on them.
I agree, 120,000 miles accumulated in 6 months with very little interruption is very different from 120,000 miles accumulated over 10 years with thousands of complete cooling cycles.
The only thing that they didn't test out was the effect of corrosion/effect of the nature over a prolonged period of time and those sorta things happen only with time. And the effect of time on oils. They changed oil every month or so in these tests (20k miles every month ie 120k miles for 6 months) is my assumption. And oil oxidises with time and could impact the test results.
My Grandfather worked for Mobil oil doing lubricant testing, He retired in 1974 After 30yrs. I wish I had asked him more questions about his experience. I don't remember much. I think at the time the facility was in long Island City. All I could think of while watching this is him doing this work so long ago. Thank You
12:00 ... exactly why I subscribe. I was afraid you were going to say the oil made the difference in those intake valves when it's clearly just the port injection cleaning them up. Thanks for doing what you do so honestly.
Been using Mobil 1 since the 1980s. Lots of mechanics I've spoken to say the engines they have worked on that uses Mobil 1 motor oils are amazingly clean and little wear in the bearings and journals after teardown. I experienced it as well with engines over 150,000 miles.
This was an impressive behind-the-scenes look of motor oil development and testing and some of what goes into making an excellent finished product. Thank you and Mobil 1 for collaborating on this to bring us this information!
I use Mobil 1 for this exact reason, the testing standards and the amount of R&D they put into their oils. Big thanks to Mobil 1 for showing us behind the scenes and also for helping you to expand the knowledge of engine design and testing. 👍
Definitely worth whatever it costs them to bring you out, us gear heads really appreciate the transparency and deeper explanations that can't be put on a bottle label.
awesome video sir... i have a 6.0l ls engine in a plumbing van with 400000 miles. used nothing but mobil 1 5/30. interestingly enough i had to use penzoil 5/30 ultra because i could not get my usual engine oil. it burned 5l within 3000km. i changed the oil again and went back to mobil 1. it stopped using oil again. i would love to hear how an engineer might be able to explain that !!
I wish anyone who doubts modern oils would watch this. I don't how many times I've heard that they thought manufacturers are conspiring to run longer oil change intervals so they can sell more vehicles. So they stick to the 3,000 mile change...🤦♂️
Yeah, pretty impressive! Manufacturers are starting to stretch out the intervals, for example the Toyota tested recommends 10k under normal operating conditions. I've seen several push beyond that.
I actually suggest to people that they should have their oil tested 1 time after 3k miles to see how the condition of the oil is. If it was still good go to 4-5k next time and test it. I would say this though, change your filter at least once between an oil change over 5k miles
Nobody that has cared to perform basic research doubting synthetic motor oils performance. And 3K mile oil change intervals is an old school philosophy in reference to ‘conventional’ motor oils.
@@madness198648 there could be a lot going on there. BMW drivers could be driving more "spirited" long before the break in period of the engine. BMW isn't exactly known for reliability. They could have some design flaws. I do love their engines. I don't hate them. There are just known risks if you're going to buy one of them.
I have no idea which oil is best. When I started using filters that clean oil in 1963 I was using Standard Delo 30 weight winter grade. It was 29 cents at the discount stores. Multi grades didnt hold up in those days. Couldnt use them in a diesel engine. In those days I changed the Frantz oil cleaner about every 2 000 miles and added a quart of Delo. We used toilet paper in those days. Todays toilet paper doesnt fit the Frantz. All I have now is Gulf Coasts and Motor Guards. I just installed a Australian Jackmaster. Its the best one in production. I had to remove a Motor Guard to install the Jackmaster. Had to try the Jackmaster. Looks good. I knew it was superior before I installed it. They have a nice fabric covered element. Ive been using Great Value 1000 from Walmart. Ive been using the Super Tech 20 000 mile oil. Some say it is made by the same company that makes Mobil 1. Doesnt make it the same oil but probably makes it a quality oil. I removed the Jackmaster element and installed toilet paper. I will use the factory element later. I got the classic model. Need a wrench to remove the lid. I dont drain oil. I might if I got a leaky head gasket or something like that. I drive enough to keep the fuel and water removed thru the PCV valve. Here in the Dallas area I change the filter about every 6 K miles. Mostly highway. Same oil and filters in everything that has an oil pump.
@@ralphwood8818 There have been numerous reviews and studies comparing SuperTech to Mobil1, and almost every one of them down the line puts them on the same level (save for the price point). And yes, the oil comes from the same producer, so the only difference would be the detergents that are added I would think.
@@EngineeringExplained Where I'm at, Mobile 1 is one of the cheaper oils on the market, but continually receives praise as being one of the best. Any thoughts on why it's cheaper AND better? Usually you don't see good stuff being less expensive.
@suspicionofdeceit For a regular passenger vehicle application, all oils are pretty comparable. One isn't necessarily better than the other. M1 may have been superior in decades prior, but now, just about anything on the shelf is outstanding and should give similar results.
I used to be brand loyal on motor oil, but now any of the big name brands works for me. I agree, overall oil has improved significantly. Very interesting video and thanks to Mobil 1 for inviting you!
One parameter has been omitted in this testing. Time. Over time, over so many kilometers, the results might be different due to heat/cool cycles which play a huge role in oil's behaviour.
Synthetic oil testing is a gimmick. They could never do long-term test because synthetic oil can't boil off moisture at lower temp. The results is acidic oil, internal corrosion and faster wears. Synthetic oil shear-ability is low and this causes more issue with catalytic converter and O2 as well. All these stuff can be google it all online.
Automotive technician here, and yes I'm sure under the right conditions Mobil 1s oil can work on these longer mileage intervals and it's very impressive. HOWEVER there are a thousand different variables that cannot be controlled or tested for in the real world that your car will be exposed to. Modern engines have very tight tolerances when it comes to the need for oil, and all it takes is a slip second with less than ideal oil condition to permanently damage your engine. I have seen particularly on kia's or Hyundai 2.0 turbo motors chew threw turbos in under 30k miles because the owner was doing 7 or 8 thousand mile oil changes. Most Subarus are going to burn through at least a quart of oil in a 5k mile oil change interval, and that would get worse with more and more distance put on that oil. Long story short just do your oil changes every 5k miles, really it's not that hard and it's the bare minimum to keep your engine In good health. I have a job because people can't do their oil changes on time, save your self the money in the future and do your oil changes.
I remember doing 10k intervals on my toyota echo with Mobile 1 fully synthetic due to the packaging statement lol. Luckily I didn't run into an issue, but eventually started following the Echo's manuals 7,500 interval just to be safe after reading up on Fuel Dilution of motor oils. As a non-automotive tech, sounds like by the very design of direct injection and the piston rings over time fuel gets passed the rings and seeps into the oil pan which over time will dilute the oil and dilute the oils ability to remain as viscous, not to mention at its worst actually wash away the oil from the piston/ports.
I'm sorry Subarus burn through a quart of oil? Beside belonging to my local subie club and never seeing these issues. I do all my own oil changes and with my 2018 crosstrek I bought new I've done 6k mile oil changes with a 7k when I had to drive long distances on short notice for the military and one 10k oil change when I was deeply depressed. I have litterally never seen and oil level drop and I am now over 60k miles. You might say I am a sample size of one but you are also a sample size of one, and subject to the same biases if you Hear this stuff from your colleagues, as when I dont hear issues from my friends.
@Nathan - What group oil is being used? Group 3, Group 3+ or Group 4? Group 3 in a turbo beyond 3500 miles between oil changes is a recipie for failure. For those of us old enough to remember the 1979 Fox chassis Mustang and the original 2.3 Lima turbo engines, those engines had a recommended oil drain interval of 1500 miles due to oil coking issues. A lot of people assume that any oil will live for the duration of extended drain intervals. Mercedes ran into this issue in the mid-2000s with owners using Group 3 instead of the MB recommeneded Group 4 oil for extended oil drain intervals; the damage to these MB engines was as you describe. Same with the mid to late 2000s Toyota 2AZ-FE, if memory serves. Anecdotally, I am very confident in my particular Group 4 oil to use a 15,000 mile drain interval; 138,000 miles over 10 years, runs like a champ.
Being the owner of a couple of 2.0 DI VVT turbocharged 4cyls, seemingly the new "go to" generally spec'd power plant for many manufacturers I run this exact Mobil 1 oil. The oil temp lives at 200F for my version, which isn't bad, yet, given the southern Texas environment, it lives in day in and day out. We have 2 of these SUV's with this engine combination. The first is just a touch over 150k miles, with zero trips to any repair shop. The other is just starting its life, but Mobil1 had made a believer out of me many years ago, so nothing will ever be used but Mobil. I'm sure there are other brands out there as impressive, but usually, they aren't as easy to access.
I have had many instances of doing observations of the same engines with similar milage when I did repairs where engines were opened. I have a shop in a Suburban town and the latest observations are vehicles of customers that work at a very large employer at the airport so the use of vehicles is about as close as you get. One owner is a 5000 mile oil servicc and the other does oil service when reminder built into vehicle tells him to. These are Ford Explorers with 3.7 engines. Both had the cam chain driven water pumps changed at 145K miles. The 5k motor needed no chain or guides parts. The cam chain tensioner on this clean engine was 8 mm extended which is in the range of new parts install extension. The 8k to 9k oil service engine was not sludge and had no severe accumulations anywhere but its guides had 1/8 " grooves and the tensioner was full extension and hinged guide was loose. There is fine particle dust that passes air filter and plastic like particles that form from combustion residue and heat. Draining oil is the only way you get these out of engine. The long oil drain vehicle needed chains and guides plus labor that erased any savings. The waste oil may have been more environmental waste but the discarded old parts and the energy and waste from making those parts is to be considered. Long oil drain has a cost for most drivers if you keep your vehicle longer.
The amount of information your videos provide and the way you break down complex automotive engineering into lego pieces so its easily understandable for a non engineer is commendable. Your videos are next to none! Keep it up.
The technology behind both oil and tires are two things that go largely unappreciated in our modern cars. Even cheap oil and cheap tires today are better than the most expensive stuff was only 20 years ago. And if you pay extra for the higher-quality tires and oil today, you're really getting so much more than you realize. This is the kind of stuff you get from competition in the marketplace. It's so fascinating to see this kind of behind-the-scenes stuff -- thanks for showing it to us.
I've used castrol Gtx, 10 30 oil for 338.000 miles in my 94 Trans Am since new. Runs like new, uses no oil, engine never been touched, even the timing chain is original.
Very important video, given engine oil ads focus only on "that is the best oil for your car, bla bla bla". This video unveils the importance of real laboratory tests to "convince" the regular consumer to look after "ILSAC-6" or "Dexo 1 Gen 3" certifications. I was used to purchasing oil 100% synth and 5W30 f(cheapest known brand) for my vehicle ... after this video, i changed my mind
From here on out I’m only buying either an older port injection vehicle or just a new Toyota with D4S. I love that Toyota actually solves issues like that. Other car companies seem to not care much about it.
Actually, to mostly solve the issue with caked valves on direct injection engines, all you need to do is install an oil catch can between your positive crank case ventilation and where it reconnects to the intake. The valves get caked because the lighter oil fractions vaporize in the crankcase and then get vented right back into the intake. The oil catch can works as an expansion chamber which allows the oil to re-condense and get caught in the oil can while the positive air pressure in the crankcase can still ventilate. I have one of these installed on my 2021 Yukon, and you'd be amazed at how much oil gets recirculated in the engine without one. I cannot recommend enough how worth it it is to get an oil catch can on a direct injection engine.
@@berto1014 I totally understand that, but I much prefer a port injection system anyways because it cleans the back of the valves off and it doesn’t require a high pressure fuel system with expensive injectors. It’s just so much simpler and cheaper to have a port injection system. I highly dislike direct injection and I’d rather not go through the hassle of a catch can either.
@@danielplumley2649 Fair enough. I just wanted to present you with an alternative in case you were not aware. I personally like direct injection vs port injection for other reasons since the valve caking can be managed relatively easily.
I did a test a while back with 2 ford 300 i6 engines where hp peaked at 3500 rpm 145hp and 265lbs tq at 2k rpm and in daily driving, one engine ran Rotella T6 15W40 and the other ran supertech 15W40, the supertech motor had more varnish and more wear on the rocker arms after 40000 miles the motor with the 15w40 rotella diesel oil had very minimal varnish, both trucks were used for daily driving and an oil cooler maintaining 230F and engine coolant at 180 with an E fan to maintain it and improve mileage, love seeing these vids, help inspire us to try different things!
WOW! As an amateur tribologist ( retired) I very much enjoyed this. I worked for Mobil for many years. Then this fella came along selling his Royal Purple. It to me two years of trying and comparing RP to M1, at my mechanic shop. RP mops the floor with M1 in those days. It was so superior that it was hard to believe. In those days ( don't know about today) ...M1 used surfactants, while RP used solvents. When you would look inside an ICE it was amazing!
Thank you and Mobil 1 for illustrating so much Takeaways. 1. Use a highest rated oil from a top & trustworthy manufacturer. 2. Cut the auto & oil manufacturers intervals to the heavy use interval. 3. Keep car tuned up. Fix running problems. 4. Don't run motor cold. Especially loaded. 5. Run a top tier fuel 6. Avoid direct injected engines. 7. Buy much older or late model Toyotas.
As it happens I use M1 Extended 0W20 in our new cars. What the video doesn't say, is that any brand that meets those standards should be just as good as M1 up to the performance rating by the manufacturer. So, as long as you trust the brand putting the standards on their labels, you're good to go. I'd also like to know how oil co's, guarantee that their production meets these standards from day to day, week to week ... ie: maintain and monitor the quality over many, many "batches" of oil over the years. (is it batches? Continuous?).
That's not entirely true. The specifications set minimum performance criteria. So any oil that meets the spec will guarantee performance to a level "X", but there will be plenty of oils that exceed that performance level, allowing longer drains less wear etc. As for quality control, there's plenty of batch testing that is done at the manufacturing plants to ensure consistent quality of final product. There's also full traceability that goes into the manufacture - so theoretically if there was a warranty claim that pointed to the oil being at fault they can trace it all the way back to date of manufacture.
@@LubricationExplained I would point out that there is no need to use an oil that EXCEEDS the manufactuers requirments as long as you follow their service guidlines as stated in the owners manual. The engin is not going to perform any better.
Excellent video! I love how well you explain this whole process, with such clarity and detail. It really gives me peace of mind knowing how well modern oils protect my vehicles. Great work here Jason!
Blew the o-ring on the oil pump drive on my 88 Beretta w/2.8 V6. Was driving over 65 mph at the time. Slowed down for road work and the lifters started rattling. Pull off at the next exit and put in 3 liters of oil! I was running Mobil 1 for years and I still believe it allowed the engine to continue the way home over two more days at hiway speed, just kept adding oil every 2-3 hours. Once I got home I changed out the o-ring and years later sold the car. Never opened the engine in 200K. Oil change once a year in the fall usually at about 15K.
Mobile 1 continues to be innovative and a great product. I've used that product since the 80's because they have done a great job of educating the people who can provide expert advice. It may cost more on the front end, though it's more of an investment into the life of the vehicle. I have yet to hear of Mobile 1 ever failing someone. Great explanation and video as always!
I believe the Mobil 1(s) now being sold is different in constitution than the first Mobil 1 product that was released for sale to the public back around (1980 or earlier?)
I had a Dodge Ram 1500 with a 5.9 Gas V8. Always used Mobil 1 from the first oil change. I got over 160,000 mile and the engine sounded like new ; never missed a beat! The body was gone (Rust) on it... but the engine was like new!
I'd like to see the inside of an LS based engine after this test. I've heard about engines being pulled at the Junkyard with well over 100k miles and the bearings were all still like new
I recall in my Arctic Engineering PE class in 1981 that Mobil 1 was compared to dino oils in the -50F environment. It was so exciting to see the pour results. The Mobil 1 actually drained from the can. The others didn't even begin to dimple until heated up to -20F.
Thanks for this video! Damn those modern oils are pretty badass. My Lexus IS is on castrol magnatec, is heading towards 270'000km and purrs like a kitten still
I use this oil in my Chevrolet Corsa ( live in brazil) the car have 337.000 almost 338.000km, and I open the engine just once. It's running pretty well and strong
I asked the lab about this because they test all kinds of oils (third party). There's a wide variety of results out there, and passing these tests should definitely give confidence. On shelves, you will find a variety of certifications.
@@EngineeringExplained Good question from OP, and even better that you thought to ask it as well. As a highway materials engineer myself, we often ask ourselves the same question when we set minimum specification requirements.
Very enlightening. I bought my 2021 RAV4 based on this fuel system from Toyota. I also love the egr system taking the exhaust gases post catalytic so the heavy carbon is burned by the catalytic converters before cycling it back into the intake. Kudos to Toyota!!
I’d love to see you produce a video on the other side of the lubricants curtain, where Mobil1 (and others) make specialty oils, fuels, etc… specific for the precise tuning and incredibly high stresses put on F1 engines.
Modern oil has come a long way in the last 10 years however I’d love to see mobil perform your every day test that includes cold starts short distance and long distance travels…
Another great video, interesting to see the level of testing that goes into it, and this was just three of the many test/standards they have to meet. Thanks 🙏🏽
I have been so impressed with I Love Engineering - it's an incredibly useful and inspiring resource for engineers and computer coders like me! I appreciate the thought and effort that goes into creating an effective platform for engineers to learn more about our field. I've found the technical guidance and in-depth materials so helpful and I'm looking forward to taking advantage of more features in the future. Thanks for providing such a great place for engineers to come together and learn!
I want to know what happens with an engine that’s had questionable service gets filled with good oil. How quickly do things get back to acceptable ranges, or do they at all?
The oil is just for friction, so its not going to repair anything and it can't remove the carbon build up. Given gunk that is already stuck to the piston and rings and other issues with the engine, it could make Mobil One look like its giving bad performance because you still get blow by among other things. But, it should do its number one job and reduce friction while maintaining it viscosity and keeping further damage occurring to the engine that a previous non performing oil would allow to continue. You'd need to get the engine decarbonized, either in a shop or by using other products that do that.
If the bearings and other surfaces have suffered damaged (metal worn away), then no magic oil change is ever going to fix that. The parts are now out of spec, and while you might be able to slow the degradation with good oil, the parts being out of spec means they are likely moving in ways they weren't designed for, and the wear will continue at an accelerating pace from metal-to-metal contact. If a bearing suffers damage, the damage will not stop building up, because now the bearing isn't the right shape. If a bearing makes contact, especially under load, metal can be deformed, scuffed up, moved around, or removed entirely. You will certainly be able to see the damage if you take it apart, and it will likely feel rough if you run your finger over it. That surface will not get lubricated properly now, even with good oil, and the bearing's days are numbered at that point. Self-destructing bearings will shed metal particles which might damage other bearings or build up in oil ports or high temperature areas like the piston ring area. That's going to be fatal to the rest of the engine eventually.
Reputable 100% synthetic motor oils like Mobil 1, Amsoil, and Pennzoil, will certainly last for 10K-25K miles. However, oil filters should be changed regularly - 3K miles or so.
So you don't believe an oil filter that's rated for 20,000 miles (like the Fram Ultra) would stick be good at 10,000 miles? I change my oil every 5k but I recently left the filter in my engine for 10k and had an oil analysis done. The results showed the filter was still doing it's job quite effectively.
@@njsongwriter First of all, I didn’t mention anything about Fram Ultra oil filters. I see Fram Ultra is rated at 99% efficient at 20 microns and 94% at 10 microns, which are great specs. Depending upon the application, variables such as; oil weight, and oil filter type/ size are the determining factors. Understand?
I think 3k is too early for the average filter. I dried out my filter insert after skipping a change (it had a total of 14k miles on it, 2 7k changes) and i wouldn't want to take it much longer than that, I could see dark spots where fine carbon was caught and random larger specs of carbon. It could probably go longer as it was no where near filthy, but at 3k a filter is barely used.
@@volvo09 The “average” filter is made poorly. A premium filter (usually 1.5X-3X the price) can last longer. I think you’ll change your mind after performing some research. Pay attention to the terms; filter medium, microns and efficient percentage. Furthermore, the only way to accurately check the oil filter is to perform an oil test. The naked eye check really doesn’t mean much.
When I bought my 2007 chevy monte carlo SS back in 2019, The previous owner used Mobile1 5w30 extended performance synthetic oil in it. I have always been a Valvoline fan, but seeing is believing though, and this video proves what I found out also. I'm sticking to the Mobil1 extended performance synthetic stuff for sure! My 1975 chevy truck though, is a different animal. The high performance 400 chevy small block puts out over 375hp and needs a zinc additive, so I run 10-30 conventional racing VR1 oil in her.
Awesome video! I still have my preferred method and timeframe for oil changes but do like how far modern oils have come. Did Mobil 1 provide any info on oil filters they used and how often they were changed (if at all)?
Great video into oil testing. As always you explain procedures clearly without oversimplifying the tech. Personally, I have used Mobil1 since it first came out and it's worth every cent for peace of mind.
It would be interesting to see the results of a turbo charged engine after 120K with this oil. Maybe, they already do this and you could make another video?
Toyota does have a unique way of keeping the intake valves clean, but that was also with the engine breathing clean LAB air, thats the problem with all these tests, its the small amount of of dust and dirt that gets past the air filter, then past the piston rings that creates most sludge, the only type of sludge this test can find is from burnt and degraded oil
YES!! this is want we need more of! Thank you! so many people these days still running their mouth "hurr durr oil is just oil, you don't need to follow the spec ratings"
Changing oil at the recommended intervals is more important than which oil you use. Running low on oil or rarely changing oil will cause way more damage than running cheap oil.
I read the other day that a survey of rental car companies found that there was little difference between cars that received every TLC and cars that were barely serviced... over the first 100,000 that is beyond 100,000 the picture was grim.
As someone who works at a dealer for 12 years now, if people would just change their oil every 4 - 5,000 miles (regardless of what type/brand it is) you don't have to worry about this useless study. There are so many cars that come in here with 200K even 300K+ using our super cheap Sinopec oil that have changed they're oil at 5,000 or less its whole life with no issues, and lots of cars that change their oil at dealer or oil recommended changes with high grade oil/synthetic oil with bad sludge, loss of oil pressure and or major engine issues because of going 10K+ oil changes. DON'T listen to dealer or oil manufacturer recommended changes, always change your oil at 5K or less for gas cars, 7K or less for diesel no matter the driving conditions are, and you won't have to worry about these issues.
@@wespolskaify I get it 25% off MSRP, and shipped to my door. I'm also using Amsoil Transmission and differential fluid. The gas mileage improvement far outweighs it's cost.
What a freaking awesome video! I really enjoy learning about these kind of things. I have a modern German VAG car and the oil change interval is 10K miles with a good synthetic oil...Mind blowing and to think it wasn't that long ago we were told to change oil every 3 - 5000 miles! Wow...
Correct me if I'm wrong but "Full Synthetic" means the oil can be a combination of fossil & synthetic bases. This goes back to a court case with Castrol when Mobil 1 actually was 100% synthetic. Top tier Amsoil is a 100% synthtic oil as opposed to all these Full Synthetic oils being marketed. I consider it false advertising because most people don't know about this court case which allows these companies to mislead consumers. I'm sure Mobil 1 is a good oil, not arguing that, just want the truth about what you're actually getting when you spend big dollars on oil.
That is why sites like this are important for informing people as to just what they are buying as the oil companies and goverment will not do it. In Germany there are "TRANSPARENCY LAWS!" that protect the consumer.
2 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Yup, I think in Europe, M1 can’t legally be called “full synthetic”.
Maybe I did not get this, but I think driving 120k miles leaving the engine in very good shape is not as impressive when there are no phases where the engine is cooled down completely thousands of times like a car that is used everyday
Yeah, while it's certainly a decent test, it's most likely short... It dosen't have a few days a week of running back and forth a few miles to the store in winter not letting the engine warm up. Or people who drive all week or longer and never let the engine warm up.
It's a valid concern! I've actually spoken with engineers responsible for validation testing on new engines (these are car manufacturers). One of the tests they run is a cold start, where they cool everything down to negative temperatures, then start, and immediately go wide-open on the engine. Shut it down, cool it off, do it again. And again and again. The testing shows there's really no meaningful wear with modern engine oils over the life of the car. Speaking with OEs (not oil companies), they're very satisfied with current oil tech.
@@EngineeringExplained impressive test. However in real life an engine often sits for a long time before next cold start, where oil has a chance to flow out of the areas its protecting. So the cold start is often a double whammy of wear, cold oil, and less of it. Made worse by how much longer it takes for reinforcements to arrive when oil is cold and slow to pump. The test described only simulates half of the real world double whammy, and perhaps the less important half.
@@russelloppenheimer3970 It takes hours to cool down a 100 lb metal chunk to negative temperatures and the oil is still liquid the entire time so it definitely drains down.
@Engineering Explained, great video! Now do air filters, oil filters, coolant, brake pads, etc. Most significantly, how the average person can look at the myriad options at an auto parts store and determine which are top choices.
I wonder how VW engines (direct injection) - most common in Europe - behave in comparison to the Chrysler one in the video. Are they more or less demanding in terms of oil?
It's all relative. The oil requirements are based on a lot of factors such as the displacement of the engine, RPMs/load, as well as the tolerances of main components such as piston rings, journal bearings, etc. The Chrysler engine is just a benchmark, with all of the tolerances known as described in the video. You could use a VW engine if you wanted.
Good coverage on how Mobil tests their oils. No info on how it fairs against any other oils bc they are not created equal. It would be great to see which oils develop worse piston varnish and deposits and which are better. I had a turbo fail when using Mobil 1 10 yrs ago. I’ll never use it again. Lots of great success with other oils backed up with Blackstone testing too.
I use mobile one emission systems protection 5w30 in my Cadillac ATS 2.0T. Zzp recommends that oil for the LTG engine. I run their parts on my car and tune.
well I'm sure they strategically chose that toyota with that specific DI engine with port injectors to make their results look better. Oil companies have to put up a good show along with their test results to inflate marketing for their products as "better than the others who do and make exactly the same product as us".
Full disclosure, I've been using Mobil-1 for 21 years now, because I raced Porsches and seen one make it back to the pits with a holed radiator. Essentially on the residuals of the synthetic oil left oil. I also use Shell Rotella T6 on my old engines. While these tests are interesting and good piece of mind, I keep telling people, change your oil often. At least once a year. I have vehicles that get barely a hundred miles a year. I change that oil every spring. Right around now. I have old trucks, tractors, garden tractors, you name it. I've replaced valve cover gaskets and seen the top end of every engine. No sludge. I was a GM mechanic in the past and have seen new vehicles with sludge because the owners were cheap and/or lazy. I remember a one year old C6 at the time, went to change the oil and the cap and plug had sludge already on it's first oil change. Breaks my heart... And yes, clean fuel and maintenance make a difference.
Amsoil has consistently outperformed Mobil 1 in my applications. I have tested it head to head with Blackstone labs for almost a decade between 6 vehicles and 2 pieces of heavy equipment. Mobile 1 is good. But gets edged out in both severe service and long service applications by 10-20%
@@TakeDeadAim no, I walk into any heavy service shop or lumber yard and get what I need for $40 and run it twice as long with testing and still have better protection. Pays for itself.
Spending half has much on a product which is 95% as "good" is a much better deal though. Doesn't matter to me, I'll spend half as much and change it twice as often and get better protection yet...and that doesn't even take into consideration the cost of testing. I don't need to test with my OCI's. I've run a number of vehicles over 200k so something's working! And like I said...no chasing down dealers. Just walk into Wallyworld, grab a bag of Tostito's and a jug of oil and filter. Gone in 320 seconds! You must live in a special part of the country if you can find AMSOIL at ANY lumberyard.
So, in this instance with testing the RAV4 - if the oil were changed appropriately it may have been 10s all the way around? As I understand it, when the oil becomes overly saturated with polutants - they will eventually find there way onto components and especially stick onto the intake valve(s). Very well done, as per usual!!!
my neighbor uses the cheapest oil, changes at 15.000km, and makes he's tyre's scream right after starting the engine in the morning. 15 year old Car, short commute and high mileage ...still no problem. some people have luck to compensate for what they don't know 😂
Just because it's still running doesn't mean hes not causing damage by doing that, I would bet if we did a tear down of that engine we would find the tolerances all out of spec, the engine making significantly less power than it's supposed to, with significantly more fuel consumption and blow by.
@@estamnar6092 I want to believe that too ...I'm a Mobil1 user and I meticulously apply everything I have learned about car's and their engine's. Hope to benefit from my methods
I love this stuff. I like ams oil. Use there products when I can but I have consistently used this mobile 1 oil. I've looked in my engine and have torn things apart and this is what I have found in my vehicles. All he has shown and said fall inline with what I've found. Inspection scopes are the bomb for this stuff.
Jason, regarding the Sequence IIIH Engine Test (ASTM D8111), required by the ILSAC GF-6 and API SP specifications to measure the viscosity increase, where regular Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 EP achieved only a
I worked drive systems test at bell helicopter. The gearboxes on V-22 500,000 inch pounds of torque and 12,500 rpm. The requirements were to run it dry of oil and it had to run 30 minutes without oil. They made an hour. The bearings looked like raisins.
Mobil were one of the first to get into synthetic oils because of their involvement in aerospace with their demands for high oxidation resistance in hot environments. Certainly gave them a lead. One of their favourite tests then was the spinning disc test where a thin film was applied to a disc and exposed to high temps. No doubt it is a premium product but I reckon that other brand synthetic oils can now work well without the price premium. It takes a lot of engineering to stretch out the life of the oil even more.
@@roshawn1111 write some are better than others. It’s still a naturally aspirated engine, though I would like to see a direct injection turbo charged engine in the test.
Toyota D-4S FTW!!!! Thank you for mentioning that, I honestly feel like Toyotas D-4S system is really underrated and overlooked by so many enthusiasts and car reviewers. Want a solution to carbon build up? Get a Toyota product.
Jason, while the content is fascinating, I feel like I am being sold a bunch of Mobil1 marketing propaganda under the guise of independence. Seems to be a bit of a conflict of interest here.
Not sure what you're implying, I clearly state Mobil 1 is sponsoring the content at the beginning of the video (as I've done with any sponsored video). There's no guise. I'm always open about sponsorship.
Actually they should test the performance of their own products, should they not? It's part of research and development. And knowing they do this builds confidence in their products.
Wow, this is very impressive. Excited for them to release Mobil 2!
haha this made me giggle
Yeah, this thing is way too old!
And after that Mobil 3!
Mobil 2 is when you reuse Mobil 1. Source: Bitog.
I thought it died in the end?
It's pretty impressive how much actually goes into motor oil. Shout out to Mobil 1 for giving us so many peeks behind the curtain. Gives a lot of confidence to the customer when a company is that open.
I used mobile 1 once it caused lifter tap i flushed it out and went right back to valvoline, mobile 1 is overrated
They really aren't... Open about the results.... Companies like amsoil clearly print the performance results such as Noack volatility (the test that separates the men from the boys in oil)
@@shadowopsairman1583 have you tried Amsoil???
Lubrication is a heavily underrated aspect of engineering
While I do find all these methods of testing and their results extremely impressive.. I do wonder why they don’t have any tests that simulate short drives where the engine is cooled off and heated back up frequently, as the constant heat cycling of engines is really the hardest on them.
They do sort of simulate that with running the engine oil and coolant extremely cold for a long duration
I agree, 120,000 miles accumulated in 6 months with very little interruption is very different from 120,000 miles accumulated over 10 years with thousands of complete cooling cycles.
That’s why they had the cooled engine to simulate that
Keep in mind we're watching just three of the many, many tests required for these certifications.
The only thing that they didn't test out was the effect of corrosion/effect of the nature over a prolonged period of time and those sorta things happen only with time. And the effect of time on oils. They changed oil every month or so in these tests (20k miles every month ie 120k miles for 6 months) is my assumption. And oil oxidises with time and could impact the test results.
My Grandfather worked for Mobil oil doing lubricant testing, He retired in 1974 After 30yrs. I wish I had asked him more questions about his experience.
I don't remember much. I think at the time the facility was in long Island City. All I could think of while watching this is him doing this work so long ago. Thank You
12:00 ... exactly why I subscribe. I was afraid you were going to say the oil made the difference in those intake valves when it's clearly just the port injection cleaning them up. Thanks for doing what you do so honestly.
It depends on the direct injection
@@dragospahontu Toyota uses dual port and direct and there is a reason why they don't just use DI alone like Honda and Mazda for instance.
@@abraham3981 it's not a big issue
Been using Mobil 1 since the 1980s. Lots of mechanics I've spoken to say the engines they have worked on that uses Mobil 1 motor oils are amazingly clean and little wear in the bearings and journals after teardown. I experienced it as well with engines over 150,000 miles.
Wonder why those mechanics tore down those engines if they were in good running condition(s)?
This was an impressive behind-the-scenes look of motor oil development and testing and some of what goes into making an excellent finished product. Thank you and Mobil 1 for collaborating on this to bring us this information!
I use Mobil 1 for this exact reason, the testing standards and the amount of R&D they put into their oils. Big thanks to Mobil 1 for showing us behind the scenes and also for helping you to expand the knowledge of engine design and testing. 👍
Definitely worth whatever it costs them to bring you out, us gear heads really appreciate the transparency and deeper explanations that can't be put on a bottle label.
awesome video sir... i have a 6.0l ls engine in a plumbing van with 400000 miles. used nothing but mobil 1 5/30. interestingly enough i had to use penzoil 5/30 ultra because i could not get my usual engine oil. it burned 5l within 3000km. i changed the oil again and went back to mobil 1. it stopped using oil again. i would love to hear how an engineer might be able to explain that !!
I wish anyone who doubts modern oils would watch this. I don't how many times I've heard that they thought manufacturers are conspiring to run longer oil change intervals so they can sell more vehicles. So they stick to the 3,000 mile change...🤦♂️
Yeah, pretty impressive! Manufacturers are starting to stretch out the intervals, for example the Toyota tested recommends 10k under normal operating conditions. I've seen several push beyond that.
Umm that's not a crazy conspiracy, bmw has cut their intervals in half because so many engines were having serious wear issues.
I actually suggest to people that they should have their oil tested 1 time after 3k miles to see how the condition of the oil is. If it was still good go to 4-5k next time and test it.
I would say this though, change your filter at least once between an oil change over 5k miles
Nobody that has cared to perform basic research doubting synthetic motor oils performance. And 3K mile oil change intervals is an old school philosophy in reference to ‘conventional’ motor oils.
@@madness198648 there could be a lot going on there. BMW drivers could be driving more "spirited" long before the break in period of the engine. BMW isn't exactly known for reliability. They could have some design flaws. I do love their engines. I don't hate them. There are just known risks if you're going to buy one of them.
I’m not using Mobil 1 because of cost, but the one I’m using meets the API highest standards because I learn from you Jason. Thanks!
You're very welcome, José, thanks for watching!
SuperTech Full Synthetic. Been using it on my cars for years w/o any issues, and it costs pennies. Can't beat that.
I have no idea which oil is best. When I started using filters that clean oil in 1963 I was using Standard Delo 30 weight winter grade. It was 29 cents at the discount stores. Multi grades didnt hold up in those days. Couldnt use them in a diesel engine. In those days I changed the Frantz oil cleaner about every 2 000 miles and added a quart of Delo. We used toilet paper in those days. Todays toilet paper doesnt fit the Frantz. All I have now is Gulf Coasts and Motor Guards. I just installed a Australian Jackmaster. Its the best one in production. I had to remove a Motor Guard to install the Jackmaster. Had to try the Jackmaster. Looks good. I knew it was superior before I installed it. They have a nice fabric covered element. Ive been using Great Value 1000 from Walmart. Ive been using the Super Tech 20 000 mile oil. Some say it is made by the same company that makes Mobil 1. Doesnt make it the same oil but probably makes it a quality oil. I removed the Jackmaster element and installed toilet paper. I will use the factory element later. I got the classic model. Need a wrench to remove the lid. I dont drain oil. I might if I got a leaky head gasket or something like that. I drive enough to keep the fuel and water removed thru the PCV valve. Here in the Dallas area I change the filter about every 6 K miles. Mostly highway. Same oil and filters in everything that has an oil pump.
@@ralphwood8818 There have been numerous reviews and studies comparing SuperTech to Mobil1, and almost every one of them down the line puts them on the same level (save for the price point). And yes, the oil comes from the same producer, so the only difference would be the detergents that are added I would think.
@@EngineeringExplained Where I'm at, Mobile 1 is one of the cheaper oils on the market, but continually receives praise as being one of the best. Any thoughts on why it's cheaper AND better? Usually you don't see good stuff being less expensive.
I’m not a Mobil 1 fan by any means but this is pretty awesome and glad to see they do all this - thanks for sharing
@suspicionofdeceit For a regular passenger vehicle application, all oils are pretty comparable. One isn't necessarily better than the other. M1 may have been superior in decades prior, but now, just about anything on the shelf is outstanding and should give similar results.
I used to be brand loyal on motor oil, but now any of the big name brands works for me. I agree, overall oil has improved significantly. Very interesting video and thanks to Mobil 1 for inviting you!
One parameter has been omitted in this testing. Time. Over time, over so many kilometers, the results might be different due to heat/cool cycles which play a huge role in oil's behaviour.
Not to mention moisture buildup from condensation in cooler weather and/or cooler overnight temps.
Synthetic oil testing is a gimmick. They could never do long-term test because synthetic oil can't boil off moisture at lower temp. The results is acidic oil, internal corrosion and faster wears. Synthetic oil shear-ability is low and this causes more issue with catalytic converter and O2 as well. All these stuff can be google it all online.
I've used Mobil1 oils and filters in all my cars ever since I've owned my first vehicle. Never been let down.
Automotive technician here, and yes I'm sure under the right conditions Mobil 1s oil can work on these longer mileage intervals and it's very impressive. HOWEVER there are a thousand different variables that cannot be controlled or tested for in the real world that your car will be exposed to. Modern engines have very tight tolerances when it comes to the need for oil, and all it takes is a slip second with less than ideal oil condition to permanently damage your engine. I have seen particularly on kia's or Hyundai 2.0 turbo motors chew threw turbos in under 30k miles because the owner was doing 7 or 8 thousand mile oil changes. Most Subarus are going to burn through at least a quart of oil in a 5k mile oil change interval, and that would get worse with more and more distance put on that oil. Long story short just do your oil changes every 5k miles, really it's not that hard and it's the bare minimum to keep your engine In good health. I have a job because people can't do their oil changes on time, save your self the money in the future and do your oil changes.
I remember doing 10k intervals on my toyota echo with Mobile 1 fully synthetic due to the packaging statement lol. Luckily I didn't run into an issue, but eventually started following the Echo's manuals 7,500 interval just to be safe after reading up on Fuel Dilution of motor oils. As a non-automotive tech, sounds like by the very design of direct injection and the piston rings over time fuel gets passed the rings and seeps into the oil pan which over time will dilute the oil and dilute the oils ability to remain as viscous, not to mention at its worst actually wash away the oil from the piston/ports.
those are not oil issues those are manufacture problems and junk engines
I'm sorry Subarus burn through a quart of oil? Beside belonging to my local subie club and never seeing these issues. I do all my own oil changes and with my 2018 crosstrek I bought new I've done 6k mile oil changes with a 7k when I had to drive long distances on short notice for the military and one 10k oil change when I was deeply depressed. I have litterally never seen and oil level drop and I am now over 60k miles.
You might say I am a sample size of one but you are also a sample size of one, and subject to the same biases if you Hear this stuff from your colleagues, as when I dont hear issues from my friends.
@Nathan - What group oil is being used? Group 3, Group 3+ or Group 4? Group 3 in a turbo beyond 3500 miles between oil changes is a recipie for failure. For those of us old enough to remember the 1979 Fox chassis Mustang and the original 2.3 Lima turbo engines, those engines had a recommended oil drain interval of 1500 miles due to oil coking issues. A lot of people assume that any oil will live for the duration of extended drain intervals. Mercedes ran into this issue in the mid-2000s with owners using Group 3 instead of the MB recommeneded Group 4 oil for extended oil drain intervals; the damage to these MB engines was as you describe. Same with the mid to late 2000s Toyota 2AZ-FE, if memory serves. Anecdotally, I am very confident in my particular Group 4 oil to use a 15,000 mile drain interval; 138,000 miles over 10 years, runs like a champ.
Honda's engineers are who I listen to.
Being the owner of a couple of 2.0 DI VVT turbocharged 4cyls, seemingly the new "go to" generally spec'd power plant for many manufacturers I run this exact Mobil 1 oil. The oil temp lives at 200F for my version, which isn't bad, yet, given the southern Texas environment, it lives in day in and day out. We have 2 of these SUV's with this engine combination. The first is just a touch over 150k miles, with zero trips to any repair shop. The other is just starting its life, but Mobil1 had made a believer out of me many years ago, so nothing will ever be used but Mobil. I'm sure there are other brands out there as impressive, but usually, they aren't as easy to access.
I have had many instances of doing observations of the same engines with similar milage when I did repairs where engines were opened. I have a shop in a Suburban town and the latest observations are vehicles of customers that work at a very large employer at the airport so the use of vehicles is about as close as you get. One owner is a 5000 mile oil servicc and the other does oil service when reminder built into vehicle tells him to. These are Ford Explorers with 3.7 engines. Both had the cam chain driven water pumps changed at 145K miles. The 5k motor needed no chain or guides parts. The cam chain tensioner on this clean engine was 8 mm extended which is in the range of new parts install extension. The 8k to 9k oil service engine was not sludge and had no severe accumulations anywhere but its guides had 1/8 " grooves and the tensioner was full extension and hinged guide was loose. There is fine particle dust that passes air filter and plastic like particles that form from combustion residue and heat. Draining oil is the only way you get these out of engine. The long oil drain vehicle needed chains and guides plus labor that erased any savings. The waste oil may have been more environmental waste but the discarded old parts and the energy and waste from making those parts is to be considered. Long oil drain has a cost for most drivers if you keep your vehicle longer.
incomplete post
@@dq7143 slip of the finger, complete now
Why would waste oil cause environmental waste? Isn't used oil recycled?
@@njsongwriter There are contaminants to be removed from the used oil that must be responsibly disposed of.
@@njsongwriter I believe that he means more changes, more oil used.
The amount of information your videos provide and the way you break down complex automotive engineering into lego pieces so its easily understandable for a non engineer is commendable. Your videos are next to none! Keep it up.
The technology behind both oil and tires are two things that go largely unappreciated in our modern cars. Even cheap oil and cheap tires today are better than the most expensive stuff was only 20 years ago. And if you pay extra for the higher-quality tires and oil today, you're really getting so much more than you realize. This is the kind of stuff you get from competition in the marketplace. It's so fascinating to see this kind of behind-the-scenes stuff -- thanks for showing it to us.
Another thing that improved without anyone knowing was jet engine noise.
To be clear, this is not just natural market competition. The majority of these improvements only came in an environment of increasing standards.
These new GF6 oils are fantastic, a big step over GF5.
I've used Mobil1 on my 2005 Chevy Trailblazer 4.2L since new - Currently has 247k miles on the original factory sealed engine.
I've used castrol Gtx, 10 30 oil for 338.000 miles in my 94 Trans Am since new. Runs like new, uses no oil, engine never been touched, even the timing chain is original.
@@johnfranklin5277 that’s awesome!
@@v8pontiacvent Thanks! Your doing very well too. Let's keep doing what we're doing, its working!
Very important video, given engine oil ads focus only on "that is the best oil for your car, bla bla bla". This video unveils the importance of real laboratory tests to "convince" the regular consumer to look after "ILSAC-6" or "Dexo 1 Gen 3" certifications. I was used to purchasing oil 100% synth and 5W30 f(cheapest known brand) for my vehicle ... after this video, i changed my mind
From here on out I’m only buying either an older port injection vehicle or just a new Toyota with D4S. I love that Toyota actually solves issues like that. Other car companies seem to not care much about it.
Actually, to mostly solve the issue with caked valves on direct injection engines, all you need to do is install an oil catch can between your positive crank case ventilation and where it reconnects to the intake. The valves get caked because the lighter oil fractions vaporize in the crankcase and then get vented right back into the intake. The oil catch can works as an expansion chamber which allows the oil to re-condense and get caught in the oil can while the positive air pressure in the crankcase can still ventilate. I have one of these installed on my 2021 Yukon, and you'd be amazed at how much oil gets recirculated in the engine without one. I cannot recommend enough how worth it it is to get an oil catch can on a direct injection engine.
@@berto1014 I totally understand that, but I much prefer a port injection system anyways because it cleans the back of the valves off and it doesn’t require a high pressure fuel system with expensive injectors. It’s just so much simpler and cheaper to have a port injection system. I highly dislike direct injection and I’d rather not go through the hassle of a catch can either.
@@danielplumley2649 Fair enough. I just wanted to present you with an alternative in case you were not aware. I personally like direct injection vs port injection for other reasons since the valve caking can be managed relatively easily.
I put a good catch can on a new 2013 ford fusion 2.0. Good oil changes 92000 Kms later valves are really good.
@@philipmackin1025 how often do you empty your catch can? I assume more in the winter?
I did a test a while back with 2 ford 300 i6 engines where hp peaked at 3500 rpm 145hp and 265lbs tq at 2k rpm and in daily driving, one engine ran Rotella T6 15W40 and the other ran supertech 15W40, the supertech motor had more varnish and more wear on the rocker arms after 40000 miles the motor with the 15w40 rotella diesel oil had very minimal varnish, both trucks were used for daily driving and an oil cooler maintaining 230F and engine coolant at 180 with an E fan to maintain it and improve mileage, love seeing these vids, help inspire us to try different things!
@@knotical689 because i had a typo lol
Great stuff. Took me straight back to my engine durability testing days. That Toyota engine is very impressive.
WOW! As an amateur tribologist ( retired) I very much enjoyed this. I worked for Mobil for many years. Then this fella came along selling his Royal Purple. It to me two years of trying and comparing RP to M1, at my mechanic shop. RP mops the floor with M1 in those days. It was so superior that it was hard to believe. In those days ( don't know about today) ...M1 used surfactants, while RP used solvents. When you would look inside an ICE it was amazing!
Thank you and Mobil 1 for illustrating so much
Takeaways.
1. Use a highest rated oil from a top & trustworthy manufacturer.
2. Cut the auto & oil manufacturers intervals to the heavy use interval.
3. Keep car tuned up. Fix running problems.
4. Don't run motor cold. Especially loaded.
5. Run a top tier fuel
6. Avoid direct injected engines.
7. Buy much older or late model Toyotas.
As it happens I use M1 Extended 0W20 in our new cars.
What the video doesn't say, is that any brand that meets those standards should be just as good as M1 up to the performance rating by the manufacturer.
So, as long as you trust the brand putting the standards on their labels, you're good to go.
I'd also like to know how oil co's, guarantee that their production meets these standards from day to day, week to week ... ie: maintain and monitor the quality over many, many "batches" of oil over the years. (is it batches? Continuous?).
That's not entirely true. The specifications set minimum performance criteria. So any oil that meets the spec will guarantee performance to a level "X", but there will be plenty of oils that exceed that performance level, allowing longer drains less wear etc. As for quality control, there's plenty of batch testing that is done at the manufacturing plants to ensure consistent quality of final product. There's also full traceability that goes into the manufacture - so theoretically if there was a warranty claim that pointed to the oil being at fault they can trace it all the way back to date of manufacture.
@@LubricationExplained
What do you think "up to the performance rating of the manufacturer" meant>
@@LubricationExplained I would point out that there is no need to use an oil that EXCEEDS the manufactuers requirments as long as you follow their service guidlines as stated in the owners manual. The engin is not going to perform any better.
Excellent video! I love how well you explain this whole process, with such clarity and detail. It really gives me peace of mind knowing how well modern oils protect my vehicles. Great work here Jason!
Thanks, Steve!
Blew the o-ring on the oil pump drive on my 88 Beretta w/2.8 V6. Was driving over 65 mph at the time. Slowed down for road work and the lifters started rattling. Pull off at the next exit and put in 3 liters of oil! I was running Mobil 1 for years and I still believe it allowed the engine to continue the way home over two more days at hiway speed, just kept adding oil every 2-3 hours. Once I got home I changed out the o-ring and years later sold the car. Never opened the engine in 200K. Oil change once a year in the fall usually at about 15K.
Mobile 1 continues to be innovative and a great product. I've used that product since the 80's because they have done a great job of educating the people who can provide expert advice. It may cost more on the front end, though it's more of an investment into the life of the vehicle. I have yet to hear of Mobile 1 ever failing someone. Great explanation and video as always!
I believe the Mobil 1(s) now being sold is different in constitution than the first Mobil 1 product that was released for sale to the public back around (1980 or earlier?)
I had a Dodge Ram 1500 with a 5.9 Gas V8. Always used Mobil 1 from the first oil change. I got over 160,000 mile and the engine sounded like new ; never missed a beat! The body was gone (Rust) on it... but the engine was like new!
I'd like to see the inside of an LS based engine after this test. I've heard about engines being pulled at the Junkyard with well over 100k miles and the bearings were all still like new
I recall in my Arctic Engineering PE class in 1981 that Mobil 1 was compared to dino oils in the -50F environment. It was so exciting to see the pour results. The Mobil 1 actually drained from the can. The others didn't even begin to dimple until heated up to -20F.
Thanks for this video! Damn those modern oils are pretty badass. My Lexus IS is on castrol magnatec, is heading towards 270'000km and purrs like a kitten still
I use this oil in my Chevrolet Corsa ( live in brazil) the car have 337.000 almost 338.000km, and I open the engine just once. It's running pretty well and strong
Magnatec works amazingly well. Im sure soon it will be outlawed. Lol
Brilliant video, the capability of modern engines and oils is astounding.
Unfortunately it doesn't do much if anything for DI non turbo engines, as far as tops of intake valves.
My question is, are these exceding ratings actually as good as they say or are the baseline standards incredibly low?
I asked the lab about this because they test all kinds of oils (third party). There's a wide variety of results out there, and passing these tests should definitely give confidence. On shelves, you will find a variety of certifications.
@@EngineeringExplained Good question from OP, and even better that you thought to ask it as well. As a highway materials engineer myself, we often ask ourselves the same question when we set minimum specification requirements.
All oils ARE created equal. The ADDITIVES thrown into them is what makes the difference!
Very enlightening. I bought my 2021 RAV4 based on this fuel system from Toyota. I also love the egr system taking the exhaust gases post catalytic so the heavy carbon is burned by the catalytic converters before cycling it back into the intake. Kudos to Toyota!!
Sluge expert would be an awesome job description
Great test,,,,would like to see the same on a chevy equinox, it probably wouldn't make the 120K.
Literally just bought Mobil 1 Extended Performance a day ago. Glad I did
I’d love to see you produce a video on the other side of the lubricants curtain, where Mobil1 (and others) make specialty oils, fuels, etc… specific for the precise tuning and incredibly high stresses put on F1 engines.
Said hi to you with my partner in a Safeway few days ago! Was so crazy seeing you in person!
Modern oil has come a long way in the last 10 years however I’d love to see mobil perform your every day test that includes cold starts short distance and long distance travels…
You don't seem to understand the tests they presented... are far worse than your proposed "tests".
لا يليق بالمؤمن في تقلُّب أحواله؛ إلا أن يُحسِن الظنَّ بربِّه، ولو كانت النوازل تفتكُ به فتكًا
-يوسف صدقي.
Another great video, interesting to see the level of testing that goes into it, and this was just three of the many test/standards they have to meet. Thanks 🙏🏽
I have been so impressed with I Love Engineering - it's an incredibly useful and inspiring resource for engineers and computer coders like me! I appreciate the thought and effort that goes into creating an effective platform for engineers to learn more about our field. I've found the technical guidance and in-depth materials so helpful and I'm looking forward to taking advantage of more features in the future. Thanks for providing such a great place for engineers to come together and learn!
I want to know what happens with an engine that’s had questionable service gets filled with good oil. How quickly do things get back to acceptable ranges, or do they at all?
The oil is just for friction, so its not going to repair anything and it can't remove the carbon build up. Given gunk that is already stuck to the piston and rings and other issues with the engine, it could make Mobil One look like its giving bad performance because you still get blow by among other things. But, it should do its number one job and reduce friction while maintaining it viscosity and keeping further damage occurring to the engine that a previous non performing oil would allow to continue. You'd need to get the engine decarbonized, either in a shop or by using other products that do that.
Overtime the oil cleans up whatever varnish and deposits were formed but never 100%
If the bearings and other surfaces have suffered damaged (metal worn away), then no magic oil change is ever going to fix that. The parts are now out of spec, and while you might be able to slow the degradation with good oil, the parts being out of spec means they are likely moving in ways they weren't designed for, and the wear will continue at an accelerating pace from metal-to-metal contact. If a bearing suffers damage, the damage will not stop building up, because now the bearing isn't the right shape. If a bearing makes contact, especially under load, metal can be deformed, scuffed up, moved around, or removed entirely. You will certainly be able to see the damage if you take it apart, and it will likely feel rough if you run your finger over it. That surface will not get lubricated properly now, even with good oil, and the bearing's days are numbered at that point. Self-destructing bearings will shed metal particles which might damage other bearings or build up in oil ports or high temperature areas like the piston ring area. That's going to be fatal to the rest of the engine eventually.
I just watched a video of yours from 10 years ago with your whiteboard and man did you ever get better at film and editing. Good job fella 💯
Reputable 100% synthetic motor oils like Mobil 1, Amsoil, and Pennzoil, will certainly last for 10K-25K miles. However, oil filters should be changed regularly - 3K miles or so.
So you don't believe an oil filter that's rated for 20,000 miles (like the Fram Ultra) would stick be good at 10,000 miles?
I change my oil every 5k but I recently left the filter in my engine for 10k and had an oil analysis done. The results showed the filter was still doing it's job quite effectively.
Yes. Standard direct injection carbon deposits dirty up the oil significantly.
@@njsongwriter
First of all, I didn’t mention anything about Fram Ultra oil filters.
I see Fram Ultra is rated at 99% efficient at 20 microns and 94% at 10 microns, which are great specs. Depending upon the application, variables such as; oil weight, and oil filter type/ size are the determining factors. Understand?
I think 3k is too early for the average filter.
I dried out my filter insert after skipping a change (it had a total of 14k miles on it, 2 7k changes) and i wouldn't want to take it much longer than that, I could see dark spots where fine carbon was caught and random larger specs of carbon. It could probably go longer as it was no where near filthy, but at 3k a filter is barely used.
@@volvo09
The “average” filter is made poorly. A premium filter (usually 1.5X-3X the price) can last longer.
I think you’ll change your mind after performing some research. Pay attention to the terms; filter medium, microns and efficient percentage.
Furthermore, the only way to accurately check the oil filter is to perform an oil test. The naked eye check really doesn’t mean much.
When I bought my 2007 chevy monte carlo SS back in 2019, The previous owner used Mobile1 5w30 extended performance synthetic oil in it. I have always been a Valvoline fan, but seeing is believing though, and this video proves what I found out also. I'm sticking to the Mobil1 extended performance synthetic stuff for sure! My 1975 chevy truck though, is a different animal. The high performance 400 chevy small block puts out over 375hp and needs a zinc additive, so I run 10-30 conventional racing VR1 oil in her.
Awesome video! I still have my preferred method and timeframe for oil changes but do like how far modern oils have come. Did Mobil 1 provide any info on oil filters they used and how often they were changed (if at all)?
Great video into oil testing. As always you explain procedures clearly without oversimplifying the tech. Personally, I have used Mobil1 since it first came out and it's worth every cent for peace of mind.
It would be interesting to see the results of a turbo charged engine after 120K with this oil. Maybe, they already do this and you could make another video?
i was trying to find how engine oils are made for every specific engine, its a Rnd intense field so i could not find much, this video is gold
Toyota does have a unique way of keeping the intake valves clean, but that was also with the engine breathing clean LAB air, thats the problem with all these tests, its the small amount of of dust and dirt that gets past the air filter, then past the piston rings that creates most sludge, the only type of sludge this test can find is from burnt and degraded oil
Does "small amounts of dust and dirt" make it past the filter?
@@BuzzaB77 the air filter is 98 percent effective, oil filter is about 95
Was this test not done outside? 😂
@@BLuRCoZMiiK no it wasn’t
I've worked for Toyota since 1985 and would love to know the source of your information. Sharing it with the other Engineers should be interesting!
YES!! this is want we need more of! Thank you! so many people these days still running their mouth "hurr durr oil is just oil, you don't need to follow the spec ratings"
Changing oil at the recommended intervals is more important than which oil you use. Running low on oil or rarely changing oil will cause way more damage than running cheap oil.
Good day I have to agreed with u on that. Thanks
I read the other day that a survey of rental car companies found that there was little difference between cars that received every TLC and cars that were barely serviced...
over the first 100,000 that is
beyond 100,000 the picture was grim.
Recommend intervals are extreme change your oil sooner
Using an expensive oil but changing it infrequently can do more damage than using a cheaper oil and changing it more often.
:-)
This was so much better than watching another cold flow test.
BMW’s response to the rod bearing wear: How does a consumable part last 120,000 miles?!?
Mobile 1 was factory fill on my 05 Lancer Evo. zero problems on it even at 150k miles. Only used Mobile 1 or Royal purple in it.
As someone who works at a dealer for 12 years now, if people would just change their oil every 4 - 5,000 miles (regardless of what type/brand it is) you don't have to worry about this useless study. There are so many cars that come in here with 200K even 300K+ using our super cheap Sinopec oil that have changed they're oil at 5,000 or less its whole life with no issues, and lots of cars that change their oil at dealer or oil recommended changes with high grade oil/synthetic oil with bad sludge, loss of oil pressure and or major engine issues because of going 10K+ oil changes.
DON'T listen to dealer or oil manufacturer recommended changes, always change your oil at 5K or less for gas cars, 7K or less for diesel no matter the driving conditions are, and you won't have to worry about these issues.
I change mine at around 1500 miles and use Mobil one. I drive mostly highway miles as I live outside of town. I hope my car last a long time.
@@johnd4348 If you're doing highway you can do at least 3k.
Thanks for the continued great content. I guess this explains my Yukon with over 400k miles on it. I run Mobile 1 in all my vehicles.
Until Amsoil lets me down, I'll be sticking with them.
Agree, it's the price! Raised again,3 weeks ago
@@wespolskaify I get it 25% off MSRP, and shipped to my door. I'm also using Amsoil Transmission and differential fluid. The gas mileage improvement far outweighs it's cost.
Amsoil signature. Only way to go.
Parts store shelf??? Come on. we all know that everyone, even mechanics buy their Mobil 1 at walmart
What a freaking awesome video! I really enjoy learning about these kind of things. I have a modern German VAG car and the oil change interval is 10K miles with a good synthetic oil...Mind blowing and to think it wasn't that long ago we were told to change oil every 3 - 5000 miles! Wow...
Correct me if I'm wrong but "Full Synthetic" means the oil can be a combination of fossil & synthetic bases. This goes back to a court case with Castrol when Mobil 1 actually was 100% synthetic. Top tier Amsoil is a 100% synthtic oil as opposed to all these Full Synthetic oils being marketed. I consider it false advertising because most people don't know about this court case which allows these companies to mislead consumers. I'm sure Mobil 1 is a good oil, not arguing that, just want the truth about what you're actually getting when you spend big dollars on oil.
That is why sites like this are important for informing people as to just what they are buying as the oil companies and goverment will not do it. In Germany there are "TRANSPARENCY LAWS!" that protect the consumer.
Yup, I think in Europe, M1 can’t legally be called “full synthetic”.
Very impressive didn't know oil companies did so much testing, gives you a great deal of confidence in Mobil oil,will loom to purchase same in future!
Maybe I did not get this, but I think driving 120k miles leaving the engine in very good shape is not as impressive when there are no phases where the engine is cooled down completely thousands of times like a car that is used everyday
Yeah, while it's certainly a decent test, it's most likely short... It dosen't have a few days a week of running back and forth a few miles to the store in winter not letting the engine warm up.
Or people who drive all week or longer and never let the engine warm up.
Ikr. Around 70% engine wear occurs during cold starts.
It's a valid concern! I've actually spoken with engineers responsible for validation testing on new engines (these are car manufacturers). One of the tests they run is a cold start, where they cool everything down to negative temperatures, then start, and immediately go wide-open on the engine. Shut it down, cool it off, do it again. And again and again. The testing shows there's really no meaningful wear with modern engine oils over the life of the car. Speaking with OEs (not oil companies), they're very satisfied with current oil tech.
@@EngineeringExplained impressive test. However in real life an engine often sits for a long time before next cold start, where oil has a chance to flow out of the areas its protecting.
So the cold start is often a double whammy of wear, cold oil, and less of it. Made worse by how much longer it takes for reinforcements to arrive when oil is cold and slow to pump.
The test described only simulates half of the real world double whammy, and perhaps the less important half.
@@russelloppenheimer3970 It takes hours to cool down a 100 lb metal chunk to negative temperatures and the oil is still liquid the entire time so it definitely drains down.
@Engineering Explained, great video! Now do air filters, oil filters, coolant, brake pads, etc. Most significantly, how the average person can look at the myriad options at an auto parts store and determine which are top choices.
I wonder how VW engines (direct injection) - most common in Europe - behave in comparison to the Chrysler one in the video. Are they more or less demanding in terms of oil?
They broke down too much.
It's all relative. The oil requirements are based on a lot of factors such as the displacement of the engine, RPMs/load, as well as the tolerances of main components such as piston rings, journal bearings, etc. The Chrysler engine is just a benchmark, with all of the tolerances known as described in the video. You could use a VW engine if you wanted.
Good coverage on how Mobil tests their oils. No info on how it fairs against any other oils bc they are not created equal. It would be great to see which oils develop worse piston varnish and deposits and which are better. I had a turbo fail when using Mobil 1 10 yrs ago. I’ll never use it again. Lots of great success with other oils backed up with Blackstone testing too.
Love this type of content Jason, keep it coming!
I use mobile one emission systems protection 5w30 in my Cadillac ATS 2.0T.
Zzp recommends that oil for the LTG engine. I run their parts on my car and tune.
Would love to hear your thoughts on this: were these results more to do with Mobil 1's oil performance or Toyota's Engine performance?
well I'm sure they strategically chose that toyota with that specific DI engine with port injectors to make their results look better. Oil companies have to put up a good show along with their test results to inflate marketing for their products as "better than the others who do and make exactly the same product as us".
@@Kagemusha320 he said they are testing multiple different engines to see how the oil performs in different scenarios/conditions but nice try though
Really glad I’ve already been using Mobil one, the guaranteed for 20k miles stuff. Always do it every 5 though with filter.
Direct injection only engines are such a shortcut by car makers
Full disclosure, I've been using Mobil-1 for 21 years now, because I raced Porsches and seen one make it back to the pits with a holed radiator. Essentially on the residuals of the synthetic oil left oil. I also use Shell Rotella T6 on my old engines. While these tests are interesting and good piece of mind, I keep telling people, change your oil often. At least once a year. I have vehicles that get barely a hundred miles a year. I change that oil every spring. Right around now. I have old trucks, tractors, garden tractors, you name it. I've replaced valve cover gaskets and seen the top end of every engine. No sludge. I was a GM mechanic in the past and have seen new vehicles with sludge because the owners were cheap and/or lazy. I remember a one year old C6 at the time, went to change the oil and the cap and plug had sludge already on it's first oil change. Breaks my heart...
And yes, clean fuel and maintenance make a difference.
Amsoil has consistently outperformed Mobil 1 in my applications. I have tested it head to head with Blackstone labs for almost a decade between 6 vehicles and 2 pieces of heavy equipment. Mobile 1 is good. But gets edged out in both severe service and long service applications by 10-20%
But you can't walk into any Walmart in the country and buy a 5 quart jug of it for $24 either.
And yet you've spent more money on oil analysis and boutique oils than had you just followed the manuals recommendations.
@@TakeDeadAim no, I walk into any heavy service shop or lumber yard and get what I need for $40 and run it twice as long with testing and still have better protection.
Pays for itself.
Spending half has much on a product which is 95% as "good" is a much better deal though. Doesn't matter to me, I'll spend half as much and change it twice as often and get better protection yet...and that doesn't even take into consideration the cost of testing. I don't need to test with my OCI's. I've run a number of vehicles over 200k so something's working! And like I said...no chasing down dealers. Just walk into Wallyworld, grab a bag of Tostito's and a jug of oil and filter. Gone in 320 seconds! You must live in a special part of the country if you can find AMSOIL at ANY lumberyard.
So, in this instance with testing the RAV4 - if the oil were changed appropriately it may have been 10s all the way around?
As I understand it, when the oil becomes overly saturated with polutants - they will eventually find there way onto components and especially stick onto the intake valve(s).
Very well done, as per usual!!!
my neighbor uses the cheapest oil, changes at 15.000km, and makes he's tyre's scream right after starting the engine in the morning.
15 year old Car, short commute and high mileage ...still no problem.
some people have luck to compensate for what they don't know 😂
Just because it's still running doesn't mean hes not causing damage by doing that, I would bet if we did a tear down of that engine we would find the tolerances all out of spec, the engine making significantly less power than it's supposed to, with significantly more fuel consumption and blow by.
@@estamnar6092 I want to believe that too ...I'm a Mobil1 user and I meticulously apply everything I have learned about car's and their engine's.
Hope to benefit from my methods
I love this stuff. I like ams oil. Use there products when I can but I have consistently used this mobile 1 oil. I've looked in my engine and have torn things apart and this is what I have found in my vehicles. All he has shown and said fall inline with what I've found. Inspection scopes are the bomb for this stuff.
Jason, can you kindly do a review/video on the stp pro-series intake valve cleaner with the egg timer thing? Looks like your vehicle could use it!
Jason, regarding the Sequence IIIH Engine Test (ASTM D8111), required by the ILSAC GF-6 and API SP specifications to measure the viscosity increase, where regular Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 EP achieved only a
828 views in 7 minutes?! Not bad for not having a whiteboard. 😏
I worked drive systems test at bell helicopter. The gearboxes on V-22 500,000 inch pounds of torque and 12,500 rpm. The requirements were to run it dry of oil and it had to run 30 minutes without oil. They made an hour. The bearings looked like raisins.
I'm a Castrol Man, no hate to Mobil1
My car calls for Castrol but I use Mobil 1
Sold! Engineering Explained to Mobil Oil for an unknown sum.
Cannabis oil for the win 👍👍
Mobil were one of the first to get into synthetic oils because of their involvement in aerospace with their demands for high oxidation resistance in hot environments. Certainly gave them a lead. One of their favourite tests then was the spinning disc test where a thin film was applied to a disc and exposed to high temps. No doubt it is a premium product but I reckon that other brand synthetic oils can now work well without the price premium. It takes a lot of engineering to stretch out the life of the oil even more.
test flawed they used a Toyota LOL
Why?😊
@@thetechlibrarian everyone knows they can survive a nuke lol
@@roshawn1111 write some are better than others. It’s still a naturally aspirated engine, though I would like to see a direct injection turbo charged engine in the test.
ya if they used a ford escape, it would die before the test was completed lmao
Toyota D-4S FTW!!!! Thank you for mentioning that, I honestly feel like Toyotas D-4S system is really underrated and overlooked by so many enthusiasts and car reviewers. Want a solution to carbon build up? Get a Toyota product.
Jason, while the content is fascinating, I feel like I am being sold a bunch of Mobil1 marketing propaganda under the guise of independence. Seems to be a bit of a conflict of interest here.
Not sure what you're implying, I clearly state Mobil 1 is sponsoring the content at the beginning of the video (as I've done with any sponsored video). There's no guise. I'm always open about sponsorship.
Actually they should test the performance of their own products, should they not? It's part of research and development. And knowing they do this builds confidence in their products.
Another GREAT Vid Jason, appreciated, and shout out to Mobil1 for their transparency proving the products worth.
Nice video and and information. Need some information and oil comparison between Mobil, AMSOIL and PENNZOIL please
The Pentastar 3.6L engine is great! Not surprised they use it…