A big "thank you!" to Bobby from Florida for sending the oil to me. He's had the oil in his possession for 35 years and very generously sent it to me for use in this video. Thank you Bobby!!
I want to say Project Farm spent way more time than most people can imagine for these testing. Freezing oil takes 24hr, cook test are 120 mins , wear testing 10 mins, oil race, and running in small engines, AND he didn't just step away and wait for timers. He took temps of each test and rotate oil pots as the time are running!!!! Oh yea and sending oil to labs probably also take a few days... After videos is done, there editings... This guy is the true legend Thank you for your time to make these videos for us!
Damn straight! Whenever I need something shop-related I check to see if he's reviewed it and how it performs against the tested competing items. Saved me plenty of headache since some of the products I was considering ended up being bottom scorers. Never been disappointed by his recommendations and I love how thorough he is in his testing.
The green hue is actually a good thing! It means it is real Pennsylvania Grade Crude oil. It's green because the oil has a low asphalt content. Back when there were lots of conventional oil wells in Pennsylvania, the oil usually had this green hue. It also tended to have the right hydrocarbon lengths to be optimized for lubrication. There wasn't much refining necessary. That's why two major lubricating oil brands, Quaker State and Pennzoil, have their roots in PA. Sunoco also got started with lubricating oil in PA but quickly diversified into fuel oil in other states. Nowadays, most crude from Pennsylvania is fracked directly out of the Marcellus shale; the green stuff usually migrated out of the Marcellus and into reservoir rocks like limestone. The shale oil is black. But I've seen the green oil, especially a few times where my rig was drilling for gas around old conventional wells. And I'm sure Pennzoil and Quaker State get oil from all over the place, because they're brands, not companies. Oil can come in all kinds of colors besides black.
Back in the 60's it was (Edit: generally accepted) common knowledge that PA crude produced the best oils. I used Quaker State in all my vehicles back then. Used to have the tool that would punch the hole in the can and double as the pour spout. Always kept it in a clean coffee can to keep the dust off.
@@savage22bolt32 Yes my dad has one or two of those in his garage ! Not sure exactly where they're at in the garage but I know he didn't throw them away ! Hes not with us anymore or I'd ask him ! He also used to use Quaker State when I was growing up !
@Джейсон Хичкок My dad told me new cars when he was a kid (late 50s) offered oil filters as OPTIONAL equipment. If you sprang for the filter, you could extend your normal 2000 mile oil change to 3000 miles. 50,000 miles on a car was considered very high miles (probably equiv. to 200K today).
The question is whether the oil can be affected by the long storage time. And the metal can is also 70 years old. But is it the same type of metal can that is manufactured today, maybe there are other substances in that can?
@@ateamfan42 At that time it was probably cast iron straight through the whole engine probably also the pistons? and it was not a question of ethanol in gasoline
In the 1950s the viscosity and service grade were stamped or inked onto the lid of the can. My father used to fill up the car for the weekend at a friend' s BA (British American) service station. You could also buy "bulk oil" in glass bottles and I was allowed to fill the bottles from oil drums in the cellar.
Looking at the box, he's clearly dealt with UPS shipping things before. I've sent items in wooden crates wrapped in commercial floor protection cardboard and still had UPS damage the items inside then argue that the packaging was not good enough to give me the full insurance claim payment.
Yes, very much this. I think most people are getting sick of the 'padding' a lot of content creators add and this channel is a refreshing change of pace. Keep up the fantastic work!
Not everything that was made in the past was better ;) Engine oil evolved a lot since the 50s (and engines too). That was a fun video to watch! Thanks to Bobby and thanks to Project Farm. Your tests are super useful and interesting (and had influenced my buying habits)
could be, but are they better. maybe for modern engines. but the engines from back then runned fine on those oils. maybe even better. as you see there was lead in it. and thats one hell of a good thing. maybe not for humans but sure for the engine. so we shouldnt feel superior to what they did back then. maybe we should more appreciate what they did back then without those dumb computers we have nowadays.
Dealing with vacuum tubes, alkaline batteries, polyester radials, oxidized rubber or whatever made everything sticky and brittle, plastics suitable for milk jugs being used as cogs, car engines that needed constant maintenance to make it to the ripe old age of 75k miles before it turned to rust… I will gladly accept the modern.
@@jd646Turbodiesel cars without tight emission regulations have indeed been the peak of car reliability. Some Electric cars are also low maintenance, we'll see how that develops in the future.
Fascinating. I'm not much of a petrol head, but I do find old tech interesting, particularly when compared to similar modern tech. You also have a interesting array of tools and expertise. I've warched a few of your other videos, but this is the one to get me to subscribe.
Another amazing production analysis. I remember seeing that green Quaker State vintage mid 1960's! It was greenish and did have an SAE rating at the time. There were Detergent and non detergent types. I recall non detergent was recommended for older engines so as not to dissolve or stir up to many engine deposits, I recon!
The reason you saw no weight grade on the can was the rust. They marked the top of the can. Back in the day of single weight oils you ran 10s and 20s in the winter and 30s and 40s summer based on your operation zone. If it was a detergent oil or nondetergent it was on the top too. Can sides were universal labeling with only the top being the varying label component.
Oil changes are a money hungry scam. Whether you do or don't believe me, my dad has a box truck with 170k miles when he got rid of it. It still had the original oil when he got rid of it. It's still on the road today.
back in the 60's my dad believed in Quacker stump for years, he had dump truck that we would rebuild every two years. that oil turned to dirt and made the over haul a job a dirty mess, top end one could plant seeds in the valve covers and the oil pan was half full of the same. took years to get him to change his mind from using that mud. thanks for the memories.
@@ProjectFarm I remember jabbing a screw driver through the top if a church key wasn't handy lol back when a can/bottle opener was in every toolbox. I'm not telling my age though lol.
I remember when I realized that someone born at the end of WWII was 18 when I was born. Now, eighteen years ago doesn't even get me back to the last century.
Enjoy your fun comparisons! A thought...the wear scar test may be skewed in favor the inferior oils. As the scar gets larger, the bearing surface is larger, thus the psi load is lessened meaning the oil isn’t stressed as much. A smaller scar may mean a substantially higher load bearing oil in this example as it’s smaller load bearing surface represents a substantially higher psi loading. Whatcha think?
I remember using that kind of oil in the 60’s, with those kind of cans you had this metal spout that you could push into the can so you didn’t need a funnel. Most of the cars back then seemed to burn oil as there always seemed to be this big blue cloud of smoke coming out of the tail pipe when you started the car. Also we usually did our own oil changes but would just dig a hole under the car/truck and drain the oil into the ground, kind of like returning it to where it came from I guess ;)
Mrs. Beast haha yeah i tried getting a pair of the cheapest tires once and one was out of round. although they're not too bad for the price if you return or claim warranty on defective tires as soon as possible
and engine blocks… I mean... stock... leme say that again, STOCK block and rotating assembly 5.3 making over 1100hp... no special high-nickle Mexican block with black voodoo infused pistons... STOCK from GM... making and HOLDING well over 1,000hp fyi: I do not endorse LS motors... personally I hate em, but damn what a claim
I think I actually remember that green tint to the oil that we used to use on the farm that was from a punch can about 40 years ago. Just like Grandpa used to use on the farm. That color isn't from sitting in the can it was actually greenish back then too. That was before the fancy additives were added to oils.
I suppose that as the Crude Oil is a few million years old then the 70 year old oil is not even going to register on any time frame, great video and good to see how oil technology has progressed over 70 years! I am sticking with Mobil 1 !
@@laserfalcon I found out long before the internet how bad Pennsylvania motor oils were for gunking up engines. Torn enough engines down over time to see for myself which oils were good and back then Quaker State was one of the worst with Pennzoil a close second. Modern oils are a lot different and I'm not tearing engines down much anymore so these brands may be good now but I still won't use them.
When you opened that oil can I was waiting to see if you had the old fashioned opener that slid in and opened it with the built in pour neck made into it, made of metal. I guess I'm telling my age now. GOOD JOB of testing, I watch almost ALL of your videos and appreciate the NON BIASED results no matter the name brand. It's good to know that their are still some AMERICANS out there that CAN'T be bought by corporate money. STAY JUST LIKE YOU ARE.
I work in an oil lab and i was surprised how you simulated tests like volatility loss, cold properties or cold crank simulator, lubricity... with "normal, daily" DIY stuff. We work with standardised materials and apparatus but even kitchen utensils, PVC pipes and an old lawn mower can do the test... you proved it. Since the 1950's oil has developped a lot. Modern cars need oil change every 10-150000km (or more ?) while in those days 2500km was already "a lot". Thanks to additives, despersives, synthetic oil formulations, better cold characteristics and so many more.
I remember oil change intervals of 5000 kilometers in the 1960's. And today they 11,000 to 16,000. 150,000 is a bit much! I'm guessing that was a typo.
@Lbolting005 Why do you doubt he has a fucking old can of oil? And if you manage to fuck up spelling "your mama" you are automatically legally unable to insult anyone.
The green is zinc, which is actually a good thing. Penn Grade racing oil is one of the few oils you can still buy with significant quantities of zinc added.
Catching this video and the old grease one just now, and I love seeing these tests, because there are totally things that they made better back in earlier years of engineering. But the conditions and tolerances were different for those older vehicles, and I imagine people putting newer lubricants in a older machine and seeing suboptimal results, and vice versa with new machines.
This video really helps prove to us just how much better “modern” engine oils have become, largely through the use of chemical additives. Just imagine the combined economic gain from this advancement...amazing! Thanks for the sharing this!
@@cgasucks i wouldn't bet my house on the probabilties that in 70 years most cars will be electric . Something tells me that combustion engins will still be arround and not just a few of them
When he opened that old can of oil that sure brought back some memory, I remembered 40 plus year ago I had to add oil to my 69 Dodge Dart every other month and that oil was also greenish color and it was in paper oil can and I used a pour sprout with a piercing end to add oil to the engine. Back then nobody said anything about you have to change oil every three months or three thousand miles, we just look at the drip stick and feel the viscosity of the oil on our fingers and if the oil is very dark and thin we then do an oil change, exactly un-scientific but those were the good old days.
Yes we were indeed told to change it, every 3,000 miles was typical. I have always changed mine every 2,000 miles. Many people though hardly ever changed it. With the oils of the day, the engine would be shot at about 50,000 miles.
I can remember when a friend of mine worked in a full service gas station, when you would add oil to a cars engine, that ws back in the mid 70's. You're video's are always informative.
This oil is designed for antique motors with no oil filters. My 1926 dodge has a manufacture recommended oil change at 500 miles. In these engines you do not want any detergents or dispersants as they will not be filtered out.
If someone was smart enough to pay extra for a filter for the Chevy it was a bypass type that clamped to the intake manifold with oil lines going to the pressure and return ports. Sometime in the 60s you could no longer get good elements. Then you needed to install a Frantz oil cleaner. Frantz Also made an adapter so you could use toilet paper in the stock housings. Then you could give the finger to the oil change racket.
I used 30 Penn oils in my first cars, 1959 VW 36hp, and mom's new 1970 MGB GT. It had great reputation in 1966-70. I do recall the '59 VW having milky oil breather build up especially during Connecticut winter driving. I think I changed the oil between 2-3,000 mile intervals, depending on milkyness.
My father was a career master auto mechanic. In his lifetime he rebuilt hundreds of engines, transmissions and drivetrain components. One piece of knowledge he passed on to me was to identify two brands of oils when disassembling motors for service. Those two brands, based upon customer/owner response, were Pennzoil and Quaker State. The inside of the engine had built up large clumps of deposits which even though large could be broken down between your fingers. The biggest hazard they could impose would be to dislodge and plug drain ports like in the rocker galley. The only thing I could deduce as to why was that both brands were paraffin based oils. To this day 35 years later I would never buy nor use these two brands.
I suspect you don't even read your old comments but I never realized how old I am! Remember the spouts that were shoved into the top of the can and the end would be the spout? I was 18 in the "olden days" and worked at a Texaco station as mechanic/ pump jockey in 1976. No plastic cans back then!
Our extended family kept our cars for many years. I remember it being a rare thing for an engine to make it to 100k before something blew up. Now.. it's not uncommon to see an engine hit 300k+ and it still run like new. My 92 Camry 4 has over 460K and only recently has it started to smoke a bit.
Hang onto it - you won't get close to that with anything built after 2007. Things are getting worse by the year. Regressing, thanks to automakers trying to save a buck.
@@SmittySmithsonite It's not entirely caused by savings, but rather it is business. Why would you make long lasting engines if you get money when they break?
@@MadEvo606 - That's immoral business. Sign of the times. My '86 Grand Marquis with the 302 / 5.0 V8 has 267k miles on it - doesn't burn a drop of oil. Runs perfect. All original factory fuel pump, and driveline, too!
Back in the 1960's this is the only oil my dad used.This and a container of STP. Everyone talked about how it sludged up your engine, but our cars always went well over 100,000 miles a high number during that time. Dad passed away 35 years ago. I still have the spout he used that not only opened the metal can but was the pouring spout as well.
Thanks for the test! I'm cleaning out the garage and I still have 3 qts. of 1970s Pennzoil 30 weight I cleared out of my dad's shed 15 years ago. It's kind of nostalgic, but I may as well recycle it, because I already have way too much nostalgia!
@@MathewPanicker1010 yeah quite awhile ago when he first said "thats alot of damage!" on his video I mentioned it saying it was hilarious and he liked the comment and hes been doing it ever since :)
I have learned so much from the work you present here. You're helping many to keep their machines longer through Knowledge. Thanks again and best regards from Detroit🙂
I have Uncle thay worked a farm that he grew up on. He would buy oil by the drum for all the different equipment on the farm. He put that straight SAE 30 non detergent oil in everything. Including a 1965 Ford F100. After over 150k miles on the F100 it started to fall apart. So my Uncle got another truck. We could not waite to take that inline 6 cylinder apart. Wow, its hard to believe bet there was very little wear and not that dirty. The oil was changed evert 3500 miles. I was impressed.
Todd, I am a recent subscribed member and love your show! I came across a problem that that everyone will likely come across when it comes to refrigerators and AC units for cars and home. I was given a Maytag refrigerator for free and it was only 4 yrs old and it looks like new. I took it on as a project and it clearly was low on refrigerant. I installed a piercing valve and I refilled it and it worked perfect for two months and then it stopped cooling. I refilled it with Freon R134A and sure enough it worked great again but required to be refilled twice the first to weeks. I took apart the unit and exposed all the components and filled according to instructions a liquid dye and bought a Freon sniffing tool and after three weeks i absolutely could not find the leak so i knew i had a micro leak that was likely under the insulation in the frig box. So instead of destroying the frig I bought a product on line called supercool sealer made in the USA. Due to sketchy info on the direction on the package I had to call the people that sold this product to determine the proper amount of sealer required for a home refrigerator and they said it was equal to a quarter ton refrigeration unit. I started the project May 22- 2022 and placed the sealer in the unit and kept a steady log. Its now been two full months and i had to fill the unit twice in the first two weeks and since then the leak seems to have slowed down but hasn't stopped yet and i am getting to critical level on the intake compressor pressure. My question to you, is there a way to test this product and others to prove if they really work or not and which one really is good ? I think we all can benefit from this.
I have loved every video of yours I've seen, even on the few I disagreed with testing processes or conclusions. How have I *NOT* subscribed before now?! (Subbed)
I hope you sent Bobby his aluminum box back with the empty can , those guy's collect oil cans . Thank you for the videos,your honesty is highly appreciated .Truth is a powerful weapon against evil.
I well remember Green oil, yes it does smell different. Big problem was it is paraffin based oil, along with high evaporation rate, under the valve covers was a gooey waxy mess had to scrape the valve covers and valve springs, rocker arms to adjust the valve clearance. Back then blow by was via a tube down under the car, air rushing by caused a vacuum and drew out the fumes. THANKS FOR YOUR TESTING !!!
My grandfather owned a Atlantic Richfield gas station back in the sixties and seventies. I hung out there alot and remember these kinds of oil cans. I used pennzoil in the same kind of cans in my 1955 chevy as a teen. No wonder the engines back then were wore out at 100,000 miles
@@xIronMikex how much was it worth can always go find a $500 scrap car find one of their trucks at a lower speed. And lock the brakes up. Car in front of you stopped short so you had to. Now you get a chance to use your new MRI machine and make them pay. Hell having access to the machine. You could swap your image with a random persona changing the file name showing you have all kinds of issues. Fed ex is one if the worst delivery companies. It's like they intentionally drop crush and get pissed and take a bat hitting the boxes in the truck one by one. I ordered a nice air compressor. Firsvobe damaged guy told me if I take it off this lift gate it's been delivered and you have to reschedule and pay for lift gate serivce to return it. Or be asked to take it to retailer you ordered from . Said keep it. Week later next one cane. The cage was more crushed then the first one. I said WTF is this shit. Keep this shit up the robots are goin to replace you faster and people wont care. Robots wont destroy their shit. Stays in the trunk. 3 times I jus asked for a refund and went to Lowe's and got a better deal and got there 120/240 volt beast of a air compressor. And paralled it my older 26 gallon kobalt, ran them to a T into Lowe's 7 gallon portable air tank and I run my line off the tank. Running 2 compressors in parallel is much cheaper per cfm for airflow and it's highly portable. Price wise you can get two 2.5hp ten gallon compressors for $300 run them to a portablr air tank and roughly have 10cfm at 90. Your entry level 60 gallons make around this and cost more the twice as much and stationary. So it was like blessing it happened. Spent less money,free non botched delivery. And can run my paint guns without having to wait for the air to catch up just have them on two separate breakers. I digress
If you do something like this again, I recommend opening the container from the bottom. The empty can is more valuable to an automotive memorabilia collector if the top is in tact. Just a thought...
@@jackiechan_wtf4041 -Tune-ups consisted of replacing Points, Plugs, Rotor, Condenser... If you had big bucks, Wires and a Cap. Nobody i knew had big bucks back then. If the car needed wires and a cap, we would find better condition ones in the junkyard. Ah, the good old days.
@@jackiechan_wtf4041, I've worked at a few shops, where the "technicians" didn't now how to work on carburetors. Couldn't even spell "carburetor." Funny story, when I was in High School, the English teacher asked us to submit words, for next week's spelling test. Yes, I did add "carburetor." And, to this day, every time I think of that word, I hear it spelled in a Scottish brogue. She was a Scot. Sounded like Professor Mcgonagall. steve
Steve Skouson absolutely correct. Most, not all, younger techs would shrivel up and run away over a carb. Also correct that that most, not all, older techs who know their way around a carb or old school ignition systems can’t comprehend a modern car and don’t want anything to do with it.
Brings back a lot of old memory's with that old Quaker State can. Learn why are new cars last long now it the oil. Thought it was more the metal energy it might be both but I see how different the oil has change. Great video thanks
A big "thank you!" to Bobby from Florida for sending the oil to me. He's had the oil in his possession for 35 years and very generously sent it to me for use in this video. Thank you Bobby!!
You realize that if "The Pickers" had ever gotten hold of that oil, it would probably be sold for an ungodly amount of money!
So what did they rate that old oil for in terms of weight?
Bobby🤙🍻🍺
Any clue as to why it was packaged to survive a nuclear attack?
Michael.
My guess is that if ever leaked it would have been trashed by the shipper.
I want to say Project Farm spent way more time than most people can imagine for these testing.
Freezing oil takes 24hr, cook test are 120 mins , wear testing 10 mins, oil race, and running in small engines,
AND he didn't just step away and wait for timers. He took temps of each test and rotate oil pots as the time are running!!!!
Oh yea and sending oil to labs probably also take a few days... After videos is done, there editings... This guy is the true legend
Thank you for your time to make these videos for us!
I agree, thank you so much for making these videos! I can't stop watching them
Yu Huang couldn’t have said it any better!
AND he will reply to this comment when he sees it. Best content creator ever! Seriously a genuine guy
I mean like you cant consider the time while Oil is freezing is work. Its not like he cant do anything else in this time lol.
Damn straight! Whenever I need something shop-related I check to see if he's reviewed it and how it performs against the tested competing items. Saved me plenty of headache since some of the products I was considering ended up being bottom scorers. Never been disappointed by his recommendations and I love how thorough he is in his testing.
Fun fact: -40 is where Fahrenheit and Celsius meet so it was the one temperature where he didn't need to specify which scale he was using.
Thanks for sharing.
Nice. Learning every day
@@veikkokotajarvi9975 no... they're right. I
its -40
He could've been using kelvin...
@@RainytheNB Kelvin does not go into negatives.
The green hue is actually a good thing! It means it is real Pennsylvania Grade Crude oil. It's green because the oil has a low asphalt content. Back when there were lots of conventional oil wells in Pennsylvania, the oil usually had this green hue. It also tended to have the right hydrocarbon lengths to be optimized for lubrication. There wasn't much refining necessary. That's why two major lubricating oil brands, Quaker State and Pennzoil, have their roots in PA. Sunoco also got started with lubricating oil in PA but quickly diversified into fuel oil in other states.
Nowadays, most crude from Pennsylvania is fracked directly out of the Marcellus shale; the green stuff usually migrated out of the Marcellus and into reservoir rocks like limestone. The shale oil is black. But I've seen the green oil, especially a few times where my rig was drilling for gas around old conventional wells. And I'm sure Pennzoil and Quaker State get oil from all over the place, because they're brands, not companies.
Oil can come in all kinds of colors besides black.
Thanks for the feedback.
That's interesting to know ! Thanks for the info !
You just schooled everyone in one paragraph 💪🤣
Back in the 60's it was (Edit: generally accepted) common knowledge that PA crude produced the best oils. I used Quaker State in all my vehicles back then.
Used to have the tool that would punch the hole in the can and double as the pour spout. Always kept it in a clean coffee can to keep the dust off.
@@savage22bolt32 Yes my dad has one or two of those in his garage ! Not sure exactly where they're at in the garage but I know he didn't throw them away ! Hes not with us anymore or I'd ask him ! He also used to use Quaker State when I was growing up !
I'm an automotive technician and clicked on this video thinking that it was going to be basic clickbait. Wow, I was impressed! Awesome tests!
Thank you!
Beyond1031 None of Todd’s videos are clickbait. Welcome to the high-quality side of TH-cam
Nobody cares if you’re a damn astronaut
Best test in 70 years i tell you
Thank you!!
Test it again after 30 years 😎
@Джейсон Хичкок My dad told me new cars when he was a kid (late 50s) offered oil filters as OPTIONAL equipment. If you sprang for the filter, you could extend your normal 2000 mile oil change to 3000 miles. 50,000 miles on a car was considered very high miles (probably equiv. to 200K today).
The question is whether the oil can be affected by the long storage time. And the metal can is also 70 years old. But is it the same type of metal can that is manufactured today, maybe there are other substances in that can?
@@ateamfan42 At that time it was probably cast iron straight through the whole engine probably also the pistons? and it was not a question of ethanol in gasoline
In the 1950s the viscosity and service grade were stamped or inked onto the lid of the can. My father used to fill up the car for the weekend at a friend' s BA (British American) service station. You could also buy "bulk oil" in glass bottles and I was allowed to fill the bottles from oil drums in the cellar.
And the bulk oil sold for ten cents a quart at Gas Giant.
I've been wrenching for 50+ years and had almost forgotten that motor oil was green at one time! Great video,thanks.
You are welcome!
Shout out to whoever sent him the oil! 😀
Looking at the box, he's clearly dealt with UPS shipping things before. I've sent items in wooden crates wrapped in commercial floor protection cardboard and still had UPS damage the items inside then argue that the packaging was not good enough to give me the full insurance claim payment.
It was me :)))
Nah jk
@@tcmtech7515 packed like that and can was still dented in.
Ninja Master Yeah, they must have hit that thing with a sledgehammer to achieve a dent like that:D
I love how you jump right into the video with out 2 minutes of “Hey Guys” and then repeat the video title and what its about . Right to it!!
Thank you!
No kidding!... most videos are annoying to seek info
Yes, very much this. I think most people are getting sick of the 'padding' a lot of content creators add and this channel is a refreshing change of pace. Keep up the fantastic work!
Not everything that was made in the past was better ;) Engine oil evolved a lot since the 50s (and engines too). That was a fun video to watch! Thanks to Bobby and thanks to Project Farm. Your tests are super useful and interesting (and had influenced my buying habits)
Thanks!
could be, but are they better. maybe for modern engines. but the engines from back then runned fine on those oils. maybe even better. as you see there was lead in it. and thats one hell of a good thing. maybe not for humans but sure for the engine. so we shouldnt feel superior to what they did back then. maybe we should more appreciate what they did back then without those dumb computers we have nowadays.
Dealing with vacuum tubes, alkaline batteries, polyester radials, oxidized rubber or whatever made everything sticky and brittle, plastics suitable for milk jugs being used as cogs, car engines that needed constant maintenance to make it to the ripe old age of 75k miles before it turned to rust… I will gladly accept the modern.
I think we've reached a peak because it seems that the cars in the 90s early 2000s were much better made than anything in 2020+
@@jd646Turbodiesel cars without tight emission regulations have indeed been the peak of car reliability. Some Electric cars are also low maintenance, we'll see how that develops in the future.
Fascinating. I'm not much of a petrol head, but I do find old tech interesting, particularly when compared to similar modern tech. You also have a interesting array of tools and expertise. I've warched a few of your other videos, but this is the one to get me to subscribe.
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
The shipper has dealt with UPS and the others before.
United Parcel -Service- Smashers
As someone who works at ups unfortunately I can confirm this
I respect every customers package as if it was my own but they hire some lazy people more often than not
Great point!
That thing is a time capsule. It may have been shipped from the 60’s.
Kudos to the person who sent the oil, I absolutely loved this one.
YES....thank you whoever sent that oil. 👍
whoever sent this to you is a star! they seem to have gone through the effort of making that awesome box!
Another amazing production analysis. I remember seeing that green Quaker State vintage mid 1960's! It was greenish and did have an SAE rating at the time. There were Detergent and non detergent types. I recall non detergent was recommended for older engines so as not to dissolve or stir up to many engine deposits, I recon!
Thanks for the feedback.
That is still sound advice. Using detergent in an old engine that may not have had regular oil changes can be disastrous.
As I remember SA oil had no detergent but also no antiwear additive, SB oil had antiwear but no detergent, SC oil had both.
@@davidpowell3347 Like everything else, lubrication has come a really long way, thank goodness!
The reason you saw no weight grade on the can was the rust. They marked the top of the can. Back in the day of single weight oils you ran 10s and 20s in the winter and 30s and 40s summer based on your operation zone. If it was a detergent oil or nondetergent it was on the top too. Can sides were universal labeling with only the top being the varying label component.
Thanks for the feedback.
@@ProjectFarmfeedback? 😂
@@C-B2003 automated message
Makes me feel better about using oil that's been sitting on my shelf for a year
Great point!
You have to put it in a metal box if you store it a year lol
Aaron Woodwell agreed. I’ve always felt that oil, especially synthetic, if stored at room temp in a sealed container will last for a long time.
Oil changes are a money hungry scam. Whether you do or don't believe me, my dad has a box truck with 170k miles when he got rid of it. It still had the original oil when he got rid of it. It's still on the road today.
Karl Hopkins I smell cap
back in the 60's my dad believed in Quacker stump for years, he had dump truck that we would rebuild every two years. that oil turned to dirt and made the over haul a job a dirty mess, top end one could plant seeds in the valve covers and the oil pan was half full of the same. took years to get him to change his mind from using that mud. thanks for the memories.
We called it head bolt hide..
Your videos are amazing. Always thorough, well produced, and to the point! Such great contribution to TH-cam and the world at large. 🙏🏼
Thanks so much!
"Is Oil Good After 70 Years?"
Yes, it tastes fine.
Steve1989 intensifies
I wonder how whale oil would fare, if you could find any.
Lol!
@@rcnelson interesting idea.
LMAO reminds me of VGG!
I love this new freezer so much it's insane
Thank you! Very nice of a friend to loan it to me.
The amount of effort you put into this video is mind-blowing
Thanks!
You spent a lot of time on this. Thanks for sharing.
You are welcome!
The sound of opening that can brought back so many memories..........
Agree! I'm showing my age. Oil was packaged like this when I was growing up.
@@ProjectFarm - Same here. Getting strong enough to stab a spout into the top of the can was almost like a rite of passage.
@@ProjectFarm I remember jabbing a screw driver through the top if a church key wasn't handy lol back when a can/bottle opener was in every toolbox. I'm not telling my age though lol.
Hell, you'd use your beer can oppener to open your oil then open a cold PBR.
Yes, it always driped a drop to the side of the can on those colunm monted perforators...
when you said 70 years old I was thinking like 1930s when you said 1950 i was like dang im getting old.
Lol
Yup
Same here. Sigh.
Jon Mantooth I miss the 2000s simply for how simple it was to convert years backwards. We’ll be old and crabby without anything to show for it soon!
I remember when I realized that someone born at the end of WWII was 18 when I was born. Now, eighteen years ago doesn't even get me back to the last century.
Enjoy your fun comparisons!
A thought...the wear scar test may be skewed in favor the inferior oils.
As the scar gets larger, the bearing surface is larger, thus the psi load is lessened meaning the oil isn’t stressed as much.
A smaller scar may mean a substantially higher load bearing oil in this example as it’s smaller load bearing surface represents a substantially higher psi loading.
Whatcha think?
Those factors are all constant. No difference.
I remember using that kind of oil in the 60’s, with those kind of cans you had this metal spout that you could push into the can so you didn’t need a funnel. Most of the cars back then seemed to burn oil as there always seemed to be this big blue cloud of smoke coming out of the tail pipe when you started the car. Also we usually did our own oil changes but would just dig a hole under the car/truck and drain the oil into the ground, kind of like returning it to where it came from I guess ;)
Thanks for sharing.
They went to plastic bottles in 86
I seem to remember my grandmother telling me "way back when", during the 40's and 50's, you had to change your oil every 1000 miles. Now I see why.
Great point!
Not all cars then even had oil filters. Now you can see why even more clearly...
I suspect coked up ring packs was the order of the day!
@@101Volts or air cleaner filter lol..
@Discofelsi Sounds like the perfect project car for a PF video.
So that’s your take on old oil, but what are your thoughts on Ancient Grease?
Haha I laughed
excellent.
Good joke Dad.
Son of a -
Brilliant. Well done.
Great video. My dad used Quaker State oil for his car in the 50’s and 60’s. I still remember the cans and the green hue to the oil.
Thank you!
It’s hilarious, the description on the back of the bottle could’ve came off one today and wouldn’t look out of place. Always fun to see how that goes
Tires and lubricants are some things that have undeniably improved since the 1950s
Thank you for the feedback
how bout gaskets and seals?
BROWNWRENCH BROWN Everything has improved except for complexity, which is a normal trade off.
Mrs. Beast haha yeah i tried getting a pair of the cheapest tires once and one was out of round. although they're not too bad for the price if you return or claim warranty on defective tires as soon as possible
and engine blocks… I mean... stock... leme say that again, STOCK block and rotating assembly 5.3 making over 1100hp... no special high-nickle Mexican block with black voodoo infused pistons... STOCK from GM... making and HOLDING well over 1,000hp
fyi: I do not endorse LS motors... personally I hate em, but damn what a claim
"I'd say this is the best protected oil I've ever seen"
USA: Try me.
Unappreciated comment ☝️
Gotta say this comment aged like milk
Quaker state has always been know for sludging up an engine. I’ve always wondered what’s the shelf life of oil. Thanks to you, now I know.
You are welcome!
I think I actually remember that green tint to the oil that we used to use on the farm that was from a punch can about 40 years ago. Just like Grandpa used to use on the farm. That color isn't from sitting in the can it was actually greenish back then too. That was before the fancy additives were added to oils.
Thanks for sharing.
I worked at FedEx for 10 years... I've never seen anything shipped with that much protection lol
lol. Yes, very impressive protection!!
bomb proof packaging!
@Dan
Where were you with your great advice last weekend.....
@@itsfree2639
he was clearing his annual leaves of this year in Jamaica of course amigo!
“Alright lawnmower I got you some new oil”
Lawnmower: 😌
“It’s 1950’s oil”
Lawnmower: 😞
Ryan Perkins I can fill you wip real billionaire ship
DrumtotheBass Woop this comment makes me sad
I suppose that as the Crude Oil is a few million years old then the 70 year old oil is not even going to register on any time frame, great video and good to see how oil technology has progressed over 70 years!
I am sticking with Mobil 1 !
Thanks for the video, very good analysis. My dad had so many cans of that in our garage in the 60s. No wonder he was always chasing the oil!
It never occurred to me that “Quaker State” referred to Pennsylvania 🤦🏻♀️
Was a waxy oil,. Pennsylvania had the first oil wells
Me neither, now I feel stupid.
bruh, where you think the oatmeal comes from?
Where do you think the name Pennzoil come from?
PA oil made JD Rockefeller rich. A lot of history in that state.
@@laserfalcon I found out long before the internet how bad Pennsylvania motor oils were for gunking up engines. Torn enough engines down over time to see for myself which oils were good and back then Quaker State was one of the worst with Pennzoil a close second. Modern oils are a lot different and I'm not tearing engines down much anymore so these brands may be good now but I still won't use them.
When you opened that oil can I was waiting to see if you had the old fashioned opener that slid in and opened it with the built in pour neck made into it, made of metal. I guess I'm telling my age now. GOOD JOB of testing, I watch almost ALL of your videos and appreciate the NON BIASED results no matter the name brand. It's good to know that their are still some AMERICANS out there that CAN'T be bought by corporate money. STAY JUST LIKE YOU ARE.
Telling your age ? ? ? SHOOT , I , HAVE ONE ! ! ! !
great test. explains why they used to change oil more often.
Thanks!
I work in an oil lab and i was surprised how you simulated tests like volatility loss, cold properties or cold crank simulator, lubricity... with "normal, daily" DIY stuff. We work with standardised materials and apparatus but even kitchen utensils, PVC pipes and an old lawn mower can do the test... you proved it.
Since the 1950's oil has developped a lot. Modern cars need oil change every 10-150000km (or more ?) while in those days 2500km was already "a lot". Thanks to additives, despersives, synthetic oil formulations, better cold characteristics and so many more.
I remember oil change intervals of 5000 kilometers in the 1960's. And today they 11,000 to 16,000. 150,000 is a bit much! I'm guessing that was a typo.
Great VID! In my man cave is a can of old Pensoil. Probably from the 60's. Love your channel!
Thanks so much! Thanks for sharing.
@Lbolting005 Don’t be a dipshit
@Lbolting005 Why do you doubt he has a fucking old can of oil? And if you manage to fuck up spelling "your mama" you are automatically legally unable to insult anyone.
@@Misha-dr9rh where is this Lbolting005 dude? Did he run away like a biach?? LOL.
@@TheWindows72306 Yes, he did.
Most interesting experiment ever i watched. Thanks for your labour !
Glad you enjoyed it!
My thoughts exactly 👏👏👏👏 Great TH-cam channel 😉😉😉👍👍👍
Aslan yegen
The left burner wasn’t on high but at least I know I love this channel and how there is no swearing just information for your brain
First time watching one of your videos. I'm genuinely impressed with how in depth you went with each test. Great stuff!!!
Thanks! Thanks for watching!
When you opened that old can, a flood of memories came back with that green color. All oil came in paper cans with metal tops
Thanks for sharing.
I remember when oil was green, damn, I must be old.
When I was in High School and poor, I bought Sequoia brand "re-refined" oil. It was thick and green like this and only 59 cents a quart.
@App Store My mother is 91 years old and is on the Internet regularly.
@Andre McGoo you got a horny grandma
@App Store hahahaha ... no man !! my dad 85 uses facebook, wasap, browse, send pictures etc !
The green is zinc, which is actually a good thing. Penn Grade racing oil is one of the few oils you can still buy with significant quantities of zinc added.
Anyone expecting "Nice hiss", "Let's get this out onto a tray"?
Steve would've drank that 70yr old oil, no questions asked, and enjoyed it!
Looks fine, smells fine.
@@GTiR23 especially if it came with cigarettes from the era
SeventyV Nice
I like how everyone who likes his channel also likes this guys channel lol
Catching this video and the old grease one just now, and I love seeing these tests, because there are totally things that they made better back in earlier years of engineering. But the conditions and tolerances were different for those older vehicles, and I imagine people putting newer lubricants in a older machine and seeing suboptimal results, and vice versa with new machines.
Thanks for the feedback.
This video really helps prove to us just how much better “modern” engine oils have become, largely through the use of chemical additives. Just imagine the combined economic gain from this advancement...amazing! Thanks for the sharing this!
You are welcome!
Keep the 2019 oil and wait for 70 years to do this test again
@Andre McGoo r/woooosh
Would love to see that
70 years later:
Oldman PF: hey...remember that oil we kept from 2019? Do they still hold? We're about to find out
You can do that but the 2019 oil would have nothing to compare to 70 years from now since most if not all cars will be electric (and don't need oil).
@@cgasucks i wouldn't bet my house on the probabilties that in 70 years most cars will be electric . Something tells me that combustion engins will still be arround and not just a few of them
@@cgasucks probably. But electric cars will be outdated.... hydrogen motors is the next future after electric cars.
TH-cam: Want to know if Oil is still good after 70years?
Me: I don't know anything about Oil, and I'm about to sleep... but YES!!
Thank you! Hope you enjoyed the video
M B Biden is nearly 80 and doesn’t even know what he is saying so that leaves trump again in 2020
Let's find a light inside our universe now
@butchtropic you know what, you make a good case.
@butchtropic Only 4 more years of Trump and then you have to find someone else to blame your short comings on.
The lawn mower is a huge part of this channel, it has been used for soooo many proejcts
Thanks for watching!
When he opened that old can of oil that sure brought back some memory, I remembered 40 plus year ago I had to add oil to my 69 Dodge Dart every other month and that oil was also greenish color and it was in paper oil can and I used a pour sprout with a piercing end to add oil to the engine. Back then nobody said anything about you have to change oil every three months or three thousand miles, we just look at the drip stick and feel the viscosity of the oil on our fingers and if the oil is very dark and thin we then do an oil change, exactly un-scientific but those were the good old days.
Thanks for sharing!
Yes we were indeed told to change it, every 3,000 miles was typical. I have always changed mine every 2,000 miles. Many people though hardly ever changed it. With the oils of the day, the engine would be shot at about 50,000 miles.
Last time I was this early, that oil was still being refined.
lol. Good one!
“Is oil good after 70 years?”
Well damn it’s been in the ground for thousands of years before that so I god damn hope so
try millions
The oil you put in your car is refined oil it’s not the same thing they put in the ground idiot
@@iamasmurf1122 Who put it in the ground?
They put in in the ocean
@@Mickparrysstepdad I did
I can remember when a friend of mine worked in a full service gas station, when you would add oil to a cars engine, that ws back in the mid 70's. You're video's are always informative.
Thank you!
Awesome VDO - Thank you!
You are welcome!
Just for one video he waited for 70yrs
Great work man🔥
Thanks! lol
This oil is designed for antique motors with no oil filters. My 1926 dodge has a manufacture recommended oil change at 500 miles. In these engines you do not want any detergents or dispersants as they will not be filtered out.
I would bet that this oil is better for my car than any modern oil.
My old 1956 Chevy Pickup, 6 cylinder, came from the factory with no oil filter. I bought it 2d hand in 1970. :)
If someone was smart enough to pay extra for a filter for the Chevy it was a bypass type that clamped to the intake manifold with oil lines going to the pressure and return ports. Sometime in the 60s you could no longer get good elements. Then you needed to install a Frantz oil cleaner. Frantz Also made an adapter so you could use toilet paper in the stock housings. Then you could give the finger to the oil change racket.
@Martin Battilana If that oil was from 1920 it would be 100 years old.
@@jimdrich1967 My Studebaker Lark was also made without an oil filter. It lasted a very long time.
I used 30 Penn oils in my first cars, 1959 VW 36hp, and mom's new 1970 MGB GT.
It had great reputation in 1966-70. I do recall the '59 VW having milky oil breather build up especially during Connecticut winter driving. I think I changed the oil between 2-3,000 mile intervals, depending on milkyness.
Thanks for sharing.
My father was a career master auto mechanic. In his lifetime he rebuilt hundreds of engines, transmissions and drivetrain components.
One piece of knowledge he passed on to me was to identify two brands of oils when disassembling motors for service.
Those two brands, based upon customer/owner response, were Pennzoil and Quaker State.
The inside of the engine had built up large clumps of deposits which even though large could be broken down between your fingers.
The biggest hazard they could impose would be to dislodge and plug drain ports like in the rocker galley.
The only thing I could deduce as to why was that both brands were paraffin based oils.
To this day 35 years later I would never buy nor use these two brands.
Thanks for the feedback.
Was he a Valvoline man? I think some cars using that made it to high mileage.
@@davidpowell3347 Valvoline and Castrol were among the highest detergent high milage oils.
It was already 65 million years old when they put it in the can.
True:)
@x x Just don't use the internet, it was developed by the same scientific principles which proposed evolution.
@x x you havent evolved yet
@x x I stopped having imaginary friends when I was 4. Sorry bud ant nobody up in that sky
@x x get lost, moron
The winner is... The 70 year old oil can. (not the oil, just the can.)
Lol
When I was working in a Standard Station a regional rep said the can is what cost the money. If you put it in a plain can no one would buy it.
Seriously though, probably right. The plastic container would have disintegrated long ago.
Yes. It can.
Hey plastic lasts forever, new jugs will last much longer
I across this episode on Tiktok and came back to rewatch it. I can't believe it's been 3yrs 🤯
I suspect you don't even read your old comments but I never realized how old I am!
Remember the spouts that were shoved into the top of the can and the end would be the spout? I was 18 in the "olden days" and worked at a Texaco station as mechanic/ pump jockey in 1976. No plastic cans back then!
Thanks for sharing!
Nobody:
My recommended:”is oil good after 70 years”
Well shit I’m tired and bored so let’s find out
lol. Thank you!
*I don't need sleep, I need answer*
Should be going to bed but here I am in the same boat as you
The can wasnt cushioned top and bottom though, only the sides of the inside box with the corrugated filler
@@samsonn25
Paper can with metal ends, standard in the 50's.
Our extended family kept our cars for many years. I remember it being a rare thing for an engine to make it to 100k before something blew up. Now.. it's not uncommon to see an engine hit 300k+ and it still run like new. My 92 Camry 4 has over 460K and only recently has it started to smoke a bit.
Thank you for the feedback
Hang onto it - you won't get close to that with anything built after 2007. Things are getting worse by the year. Regressing, thanks to automakers trying to save a buck.
@@SmittySmithsonite It's not entirely caused by savings, but rather it is business. Why would you make long lasting engines if you get money when they break?
@@MadEvo606 - That's immoral business. Sign of the times.
My '86 Grand Marquis with the 302 / 5.0 V8 has 267k miles on it - doesn't burn a drop of oil. Runs perfect. All original factory fuel pump, and driveline, too!
Smitty Smithsonite I find myself having to add oil to my 99 Grand Marquis. You’re lucky!
Back in the 1960's this is the only oil my dad used.This and a container of STP. Everyone talked about how it sludged up your engine, but our cars always went well over 100,000 miles a high number during that time. Dad passed away 35 years ago. I still have the spout he used that not only opened the metal can but was the pouring spout as well.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the test! I'm cleaning out the garage and I still have 3 qts. of 1970s Pennzoil 30 weight I cleared out of my dad's shed 15 years ago.
It's kind of nostalgic, but I may as well recycle it, because I already have way too much nostalgia!
Thanks for sharing.
“That’s a lot of vapor” sounds like Phil swift “that’s a lot of damage”
Link?
I feel like he says that on purpose xD
new meme alert quick someone get a vape video
@@MathewPanicker1010 yeah quite awhile ago when he first said "thats alot of damage!" on his video I mentioned it saying it was hilarious and he liked the comment and hes been doing it ever since :)
How about some more!
I just discovered your channel last night and watched about 3 videos.. and am here again the night after. I'm really enjoying them. Good work.
Thank you very much!
My grandparents still have quite a few unopened cans of the vintage oils in the cardboard cans, that you used a juice opener to get the oil out.
Nice!
I have learned so much from the work you present here. You're helping many to keep their machines longer through Knowledge. Thanks again and best regards from Detroit🙂
You are welcome! Glad to hear!
0:28 How to make sure your package won’t get destroyed by the eBay Global Shipping Program
Lmao
Imagine the sheer PAIN from one of those guys who kick packages
Imagine still using ebay in 2021
@@newyorkyankees81 simp
@@mmbb1561 imagine not using it boy wtf door handles cost 1/4 the price of Autozone ones💀
ProjectFarm: Punctures 70 year old oil can
Me after binge watching SteveMRE1989: Nice hiss
Nice reference.
Alright, let's get this into the lawnmower engine. NICE!
@Patrick Rapan Thats all i smoke now from watching it in Steve's videos. Tried em when they came back out and loved em
This was very good. Thanks for making these tests. I'm really learning something new each time.
I really like that you read the full product description 👍
Thanks!
Just add a few capfuls of Marvel Mystery Oil to the old oil and retest.
Nothing like a little MMO!
Can old motor oil be brought up to modern standards with over the counter products?
@@fred_e NO !!
@@SlikLizrd aight
Steve 1989: hmm no hiss
Lets get this out on a tray. Nice
Best laugh l had all day
Lol
Exactly what went through my mind 👍
@@FeitLapp ohyeah!
I have Uncle thay worked a farm that he grew up on. He would buy oil by the drum for all the different equipment on the farm. He put that straight SAE 30 non detergent oil in everything. Including a 1965 Ford F100. After over 150k miles on the F100 it started to fall apart. So my Uncle got another truck. We could not waite to take that inline 6 cylinder apart. Wow, its hard to believe bet there was very little wear and not that dirty. The oil was changed evert 3500 miles. I was impressed.
Todd, I am a recent subscribed member and love your show! I came across a problem that that everyone will likely come across when it comes to refrigerators and AC units for cars and home. I was given a Maytag refrigerator for free and it was only 4 yrs old and it looks like new. I took it on as a project and it clearly was low on refrigerant. I installed a piercing valve and I refilled it and it worked perfect for two months and then it stopped cooling. I refilled it with Freon R134A and sure enough it worked great again but required to be refilled twice the first to weeks. I took apart the unit and exposed all the components and filled according to instructions a liquid dye and bought a Freon sniffing tool and after three weeks i absolutely could not find the leak so i knew i had a micro leak that was likely under the insulation in the frig box. So instead of destroying the frig I bought a product on line called supercool sealer made in the USA. Due to sketchy info on the direction on the package I had to call the people that sold this product to determine the proper amount of sealer required for a home refrigerator and they said it was equal to a quarter ton refrigeration unit. I started the project May 22- 2022 and placed the sealer in the unit and kept a steady log. Its now been two full months and i had to fill the unit twice in the first two weeks and since then the leak seems to have slowed down but hasn't stopped yet and i am getting to critical level on the intake compressor pressure.
My question to you, is there a way to test this product and others to prove if they really work or not and which one really is good ? I think we all can benefit from this.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I am continually impressed by the detail and professionalism of your videos.
Thanks so much!
The shipping box protected the oil better than the oil would protect an engine!
Thank you for the feedback
The donor apparently has the same OCD as most of us fellow project farm viewers.
Thanks Bobby for your contribution! Nice review.
You are welcome, Todd.
I have loved every video of yours I've seen, even on the few I disagreed with testing processes or conclusions. How have I *NOT* subscribed before now?! (Subbed)
Thanks! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
I hope you sent Bobby his aluminum box back with the empty can , those guy's collect oil cans . Thank you for the videos,your honesty is highly appreciated .Truth is a powerful weapon against evil.
Thank you for the feedback. Yes, I did send back the oil can and greatly appreciate Bobby providing the oil. He's had that can of oil for 35 years!
Well I’m drunk again on the motor oil testing side of TH-cam.. not again.
lol
@@uknwarrior7980 currently finding myself in this situation right now lol.
Same
Drunk again as well.. Will be heading to pornhub when I'm done with this ....... 👍🏼👍🏼
@@jdirt1982 going to do the same
I well remember Green oil, yes it does smell different. Big problem was it is paraffin based oil, along with high evaporation rate, under the valve covers was a gooey waxy mess had to scrape the valve covers and valve springs, rocker arms to adjust the valve clearance. Back then blow by was via a tube down under the car, air rushing by caused a vacuum and drew out the fumes.
THANKS FOR YOUR TESTING !!!
You are welcome!
My grandfather owned a Atlantic Richfield gas station back in the sixties and seventies. I hung out there alot and remember these kinds of oil cans. I used pennzoil in the same kind of cans in my 1955 chevy as a teen. No wonder the engines back then were wore out at 100,000 miles
Thanks for sharing.
I’m guessing with that box they prepared to ship with UPS
Lulz
Thank you for the feedback
Nah fedex. They smashed their own freight box and blamed us. Ruined our pen panel for a mri system.
looks like they still dented it to
@@xIronMikex how much was it worth can always go find a $500 scrap car find one of their trucks at a lower speed. And lock the brakes up. Car in front of you stopped short so you had to. Now you get a chance to use your new MRI machine and make them pay. Hell having access to the machine. You could swap your image with a random persona changing the file name showing you have all kinds of issues. Fed ex is one if the worst delivery companies. It's like they intentionally drop crush and get pissed and take a bat hitting the boxes in the truck one by one.
I ordered a nice air compressor. Firsvobe damaged guy told me if I take it off this lift gate it's been delivered and you have to reschedule and pay for lift gate serivce to return it. Or be asked to take it to retailer you ordered from . Said keep it. Week later next one cane. The cage was more crushed then the first one. I said WTF is this shit. Keep this shit up the robots are goin to replace you faster and people wont care. Robots wont destroy their shit. Stays in the trunk. 3 times I jus asked for a refund and went to Lowe's and got a better deal and got there 120/240 volt beast of a air compressor. And paralled it my older 26 gallon kobalt, ran them to a T into Lowe's 7 gallon portable air tank and I run my line off the tank. Running 2 compressors in parallel is much cheaper per cfm for airflow and it's highly portable. Price wise you can get two 2.5hp ten gallon compressors for $300 run them to a portablr air tank and roughly have 10cfm at 90. Your entry level 60 gallons make around this and cost more the twice as much and stationary. So it was like blessing it happened. Spent less money,free non botched delivery. And can run my paint guns without having to wait for the air to catch up just have them on two separate breakers. I digress
The wife and I are testing a 70 year-old jar of KY Jelly.
Hahaha 👍
Ouch!
Probably a big improvement
Good ol' Kentucky Jelly!!
How's the viscosity?
This is the one youtube "review" site that I trust. I even watch items that I have no interest in or will never use.
Thanks!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
I love how much I learn from your channel. Thanks for making all these vids!
Happy to hear that! You are welcome!
If you do something like this again, I recommend opening the container from the bottom. The empty can is more valuable to an automotive memorabilia collector if the top is in tact. Just a thought...
Thanks for the feedback.
No wonder getting 100k miles out of an engine was a feat, back then
Thank you for the feedback
Thank god we don't use Carburetor anymore, also engines back then needed new spark plugs at every 30k miles.
@@jackiechan_wtf4041 -Tune-ups consisted of replacing Points, Plugs, Rotor, Condenser... If you had big bucks, Wires and a Cap. Nobody i knew had big bucks back then. If the car needed wires and a cap, we would find better condition ones in the junkyard. Ah, the good old days.
@@jackiechan_wtf4041, I've worked at a few shops, where
the "technicians" didn't now how to work on carburetors.
Couldn't even spell "carburetor." Funny story, when I was
in High School, the English teacher asked us to submit
words, for next week's spelling test. Yes, I did add
"carburetor." And, to this day, every time I think of that
word, I hear it spelled in a Scottish brogue. She was a
Scot. Sounded like Professor Mcgonagall.
steve
Steve Skouson absolutely correct. Most, not all, younger techs would shrivel up and run away over a carb.
Also correct that that most, not all, older techs who know their way around a carb or old school ignition systems can’t comprehend a modern car and don’t want anything to do with it.
Brings back a lot of old memory's with that old Quaker State can. Learn why are new cars last long now it the oil. Thought it was more the metal energy it might be both but I see how different the oil has change. Great video thanks
Thanks and you are welcome!
Raises his hands.
Am I the only one who misses the old metal oil cans?
Damn I'm old.