Didn't see anyone mention it yet (though I didn't scroll very far) but placing the combustion air intake outside the garage will stop it from sucking in cold outdoor air from every crack and crevice in your structure, likely improving on the 20 degree temp difference you've been achieving. Just food for thought, and I can think of times you may want that fresh air infiltration despite the inefficiency. Thanks for a great, short, informative video.
WARNING!:Be very careful with combustion air intake inside. If power fails during a firing cycle the unit will not have the shut down cycle. This means the combustion chamber is full of fuel and it will vaporize unburned and come out the intake tube. Choking fumes that really stink. Never leave it running unattended.
Thanks for this short but sweet video, it has provided useful information. I am just considering the purchase of one of these type of heaters for my newly commissioned mobile workshop. Its 7 x 12 x 6 feet high, and basically is just a cargo box that I forklift onto the back of my flat bed truck. I often get sent to really remote locations in the depths of winter to fix stuff, and I find that stuff sure gets fixed quicker when i am warm. David in the UK.
That sounds like an awesome setup. One of these heaters would work great for that. I do recommend the fuel line upgrade. I think there’s a link on that video for it in the description. It just seems to make it run a little bit better I don’t really know why it does but it does.
Very good summary of diesel heater use. Cleaning out the burn chamber before shutdown is your best tip, this will greatly increase the time between burn chamber cleanings. Great video!!!
Good vid, Paul, thanks for the info. I put the smaller version in my VW bus and can run it down to around zero F°. Key to keeping it happy are clean fuel, I use kerosene, seems to make a big difference, and like you say, run it on high most of the time to clean it out- its gotta get hot enough to burn efficiently 👍
If you run your heater on low, it will speed up and clean out the burn chamber before it shuts down. I noticed that on mine after running mine all night on 2 kz I shut it down and the fan sped up and the glowplug came on to burn off any residual fuel in the chamber.
I just set mine up.. I put a CO meter directly in the exhaust stream.. When it was up to temperature the reading was zero PPM.. I got 100PPM or so during start up/shutdown but the reading in the main part of the shop never went above zero PPM... So, that means there is no reason to run the exhaust outside, now all of the heat is useful for heating.. I was amazed by this and of course will always run a CO detector but I won't be punching a hole in the shop wall.
@@paulethier3416 Why? My propane heater which is 5 times the size of this diesel heater is direct burn inside the shop.. If this doesn't make any CO then there is no reason to.
Great video. You said the diesel heater isn't the end all be all solution for a garage heater but from the standpoint of economics it actually might be. Your video gave me good insight as to how one of these units may help my situation. I have a 30x40 uninsulated pole barn so I would likely get poor results until I decide to insulate my barn. Either way if it take some off the chill of without gagging me like my torpedo heater I would call that a win.
I agree. Thanks for the comment. After doing multiple home projects this summer I’m saving up so that in the spring I can start insulating my garage. That should give me really good results. It’s definitely better than a torpedo heater. Good luck with the pole barn.
Mine runs on diesel or kerosene. It is an always on forced air heater that puts out a lot of heat but I have mine on a thermostat that can be placed in various locations around the heater to just meet a desired temperature in relation to the high temperature output. The negative side is the fumes are not separate from the heat like they are with the parking heaters. Torpedo heaters are intended as a short term heat solution in large well ventilated areas. Parking heaters can be set up as a more permanent heat solution.@@augustusmaximus891
Carbon build up is not a problem no matter what setting you use as long as it's tuned right for your altitude. Running it on the lowest setting all the time builds up no more carbon than running it on high.
Also. There's not one of the Chinese diesel heaters that is rated 8kw. The burn chamber are tte same on the acclaimed 5kw and 8kw. In addition, it spends fuel to the amount of 5kw, it does not nearly put out 5kw of heat. So therew two models. 2.5kw, and the 5kw. It's been picked apart by many and well documented :) Of you want a proper one, but still cheap. Get a lavaneer/lavaner. Chinese heater, only it's assembled properly, actually quality controlled, tested, and every spec are open to the public. 👌🏼
I installed a Chinese Diesel heater in my 6x12 cargo trailer conversion... I spent all my effort making sure I properly exhausted the unit through my 1 inch insulated wall using a thru-hull stainless outlet as well as using high-temp RTV around my exhaust hose with high quality hose clamps, and thought everything was great.. I now know that I need to also properly setup a thru-hull port for the combustion intake (away from the exhaust). These devices are primitive.. don't trust that the exhaust flow will happen in one direction with 100% certainty... and don't expect your Home Depot CO detector to save you either.. I've smelled the funky smell, and let it go... and it made me pretty sick.. Don't ignore it... do it right. ...also, if you drop the diesel pump frequency, the exhaust-to-intake leak is even worse... Treat the combustion intake just as important as the exhaust itself.
Im a glass blower, i live in ny and i have 1700cfm of ventilation going while my torch is going. I struggle to stay warm in the winter. The best i have found is a 60-90k btu propane salamander, anything over 90k like burns all the oxy out of the air and i start feeling really weird. Was considering the diesel heater but it doesnt seem its gonna be enough heat for me. Thanks for the info!
I have been using mine for 3 years set on temp control so it goes to minimum often when the set point is reached. I always use clean fuel and have done no mods. I have never cleaned it and it runs like a charm. I know it will have to be cleaned at some point. It is the nature of diesel. Always take a look at the exhaust. You shouldn't see any smoke as side from moisture when its really cold, if you do there is a problem.
A bit late on your video comments... Lol I just bought a fresh one, I have been playing with these for three years or so. My advice for you and all 1) I have bought three, none have had documentation, all had different controllers (thats how I wound up surfing your video, firing yet another black friday heater. My old one worked through a lot of fuel, always worked, but eventually started running a bit dirty and smoking a lot on start.. For 100$ I am replacing it 2) Insulate your garage, at least tbe roof first. You will easily heat it. I started with zero in a 350ish foot old block garage, insulating it lets the heater run on set 1 or 2 (1/4 litre per hourish in Ontario February winter. 3) Dont burn used oil. This has been researched a tonne and the china heaters will guck up fast no matter how clean you think the oil is. I burn only fuel diesel from the local station and burn my used oil elsewhere. 3) Put in a cold air intake. They love cold air and it keeps your warm air in. 4) There is a lot of lost heat on the exhaust, but dont vent inside! I made a heat exchanger from a surplus princess auto tractor muffler, I run the generic a three foot stainless exhaust in a triple coil into that. All coild slope slightly down. I blow a 8 inch fan over this.This saves a ton of heat, shocking really, maybe as much as 20% effciency improvement.
@@AncientMechanic64 Thanks for commenting and sharing this information. I’ve finished all my other big house projects. Garage insulation is next on the agenda.
@@rockyfelicia7826 Essentially I hung my heater about four feet up, I run the typical 3 foot stainless exhaust exhaust down in a coil into the top. All sealed with aluminum tape The tractor muffler was a surplus item for 20$ a couple years ago, may not be as cheap. It has 2 inch inlets. I ran one out through the wall and the coil into ths inlet, all heading down so condensation doesnt accumlate. A fan blows from the floor up.over this to remove heat. There are lots of simiar ideas around youtube using iron pipe or an old house steam radiator. The main thing is to have lots of metal surface area to remove tbe heat.
This heater is really about 10K btu. Diesel contains about 33K btu per liter, burn rate is about .35l an hour on high, so only 10K ish btus are available for heat if it were 100% efficient. But with all that heat escaping as exhaust its not giving full btu as diesel has. To reclaim exhaust heat I put a 6' stainless exhuast ran through aluminum downspouting filled halfway with sand. This helps extract lost exhaust heat along with a small fan. Hope this helps.
Are you running your air intake inside the garage and your exhaust outside the garage? If so you are pulling cold outside air into the garage and making the heater less effective. Maybe it doesn't make a huge difference since you're not insulated garage anyway but you may be able to run your intake outside and achieve higher temperatures in the garage.
Don’t! Just don’t…you’ll have nothing but trouble…they run very frugal and trouble free on diesel, kero, or heating oil..just a headache playing around with alternative fuels and why? It’s not a truck getting 10mpg it’s a DIESEL heater running 8hrs on one gallon at high 😂 do you want to ice skate uphill also 🤷♂️ FYI, increase the minimum set fan speed for cleaner combustion on low, it soots up because of being too rich fuel/air mixture. A little research will turn up the master code for your model. Once the unit is at operating temperature, bump up the set fan speeds so hardly no black smoke is seen from exhaust. I went up 200rpms and haven’t had issues with soot buildup since. Before that; If the heater did soot up or got flooded with fuel, a trick I used was a shop vac hose hooked up to the vac exhaust as to blow in the intake at a high volume and blow out excess fuel or carbon without disassembling the whole thing.
They will run on filtered waste oil + diesel but you will only get 2 maybe 3 tanks of fuel through it before it blocks up the burn chamber and then need a major cleaning. If you don't mind cleaning them out 2 times a week it's fine, they will run on mixtures of waste oil and diesel. I think they are over rated and very labor intensive. Once the inside of the flame chamber gets full of soot there is a gauze in there that is supposed to glow red hot to help combustion, this gauze can not be seen unless it is cut in half , but when it is clogged with carbon and soot it will begin to carbon up faster each time between cleans. As I wrote in the above comment the only real way to clean behind this gauze where the gunk builds up is to use Hydrochloric acid. Because there is no access for tools to be used on this part unless the burn chamber is cut open.
I have one and it won’t stay on. The fuel pump isn’t moving fuel from tank to machine and have tried a new pump as well. Have a 12v 60w inverter for power and had a battery on it and it won’t start up completely. Stays on for 20 secs and shuts down
1:50 they were saying lot of things. I didnt seen one important. this filter can be unscrew to be opened and cleaned. For this you need the dirt to be outside of the screen. The clogging reasons seems to me like nonsense.
They work fine for the first few months but once the inside of the flame chamber,(which has a mesh surrounding it which can't be seen unless it is cut in half ) gets full of carbon it will start to carbon up faster each time and will not combust the fuel properly causing more soot and carbon build ups in the exhaust and burn chamber. You can't pull the burn chambers apart to clean the inside and no tools will scrape away the carbon build up behind this mesh. the only thing I have found that removes it but also corrodes the mesh a bit each time is Hydrochloric acid, most the buildup turs to a black smelly sludge and can be rinsed out with water. I can't see any other way to clean this and acid was the last resort, I feared it may dissolve the mesh entirely but if done quickly with ample rinsing with fresh water seems to work fine so far. If you have an old blocked burn chamber that is not working give the acid a shot and see if it works for you.
The old school kerosene heater produces carbon monoxide. This does too but this separates the combustion, pushes the exhaust outside and uses a heat exchanger and fan to distribute the hot air. You should still have a CO detector handy but this is way safer than a typical kerosene heater.
My experience with my uninsulated garage is 20 degrees f above the outside temperature. If you have a bigger area or more insulation it could be different in your situation.
The harder fuel line makes zero difference as there isnt any pressure in the fuel line when running, it is basically gravity fed and the pump just meters the flow it dosent pump under pressure..
I bought one it lasted about 6 hours before it packed up Think it's worth spending that bit more on a quality one Well watching this video I have learnt a lot thankyou
WARNING!:Be very careful with combustion air intake inside. If power fails during a firing cycle the unit will not have the shut down cycle. This means the combustion chamber is full of fuel and it will vaporize unburned and come out the intake tube. Choking fumes that really stink. Never leave it running unattended.
With the on-board tank full and running on high it will run for about 14 hours. I never run it on a lower setting so I'm not sure how long that would last on low. I suspect it would run 24hours on low setting. Thanks for the comment.
Use clean diesel from the pump. Don't try to use old oil mixed with diesel or something like that. Just go to the pump and buy diesel. And, make sure your exhaust setup allows for condensation to drain. Thanks for the question and comment.
It doesn’t get cold enough to gel the diesel. The heater is just not strong enough without insulation. I’m happy I bought it and used it this winter. It really is cheap affordable heat. Thanks for commenting.
12 hours on one tank is exactly the question I wanted to ask. But the question on top of that is will a fully charged car battery run the heater for 12 hours also? I want to put it on the deck of my boat and run the heat into the cabin. The cabin is the size of a minivan.
I would give it a try. They really are not that bad. The problem is people try to use them for something they are not. They are typically designed for truck cabs, vans or small spaces and people push the limits. Not sure what your heating but I had an installation problem (me) and once I fixed it, its been running for 2 years with no issues. None. Thanks for commenting.
Your fuel filter inlet should have the fuel going to the outside of the filter element. if you have the fuel go inside the element it will fill up with debris like a cup and clog the filter easier!
Thank you for commenting. This has been pointed out to me many times. When I installed it I did not notice that I installed it wrong. Its been changed since the video.
thank you very much for this great video - and the others! This guy actual uses the exhaustion heat in addition to the blowing out heat: th-cam.com/video/6WrCJcfICF4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=UEhwrvA9k1XAbhAV
Yes! It’s been working fine I’ve been using it for two years. This will be the third winter, but I haven’t started it yet this winter, but I’m not anticipating any problems.
What kinda crap are you rambling on about? Kw stands for Kilowatt on these heaters and on anywhere it says Kw. I have no idea what you have smoked to come up with CALORIE WATT.
I'd like too know how you power up this heater, because I hear on start up the glow plugs need up to 15amps / 120w supply this will drop when it's warmed up to under 10amps / 40w. Most lithium battery generators only have about 10amps max, unless it comes with a suitable brick converta this is a small problem.
Short and to the point.
Great video thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Didn't see anyone mention it yet (though I didn't scroll very far) but placing the combustion air intake outside the garage will stop it from sucking in cold outdoor air from every crack and crevice in your structure, likely improving on the 20 degree temp difference you've been achieving. Just food for thought, and I can think of times you may want that fresh air infiltration despite the inefficiency. Thanks for a great, short, informative video.
Yes, someone here did mention that. I just haven't done it yet. Maybe someday. Thanks for commenting.
WARNING!:Be very careful with combustion air intake inside. If power fails during a firing cycle the unit will not have the shut down cycle. This means the combustion chamber is full of fuel and it will vaporize unburned and come out the intake tube. Choking fumes that really stink. Never leave it running unattended.
Great video actually changed my procedure. Thanks for the "leave it on high when shutting down" suggestion. Makes sense to me!
I'm happy you enjoyed the video. Thanks for the comment. I appreciate it.
You may actually consider changing low fan speed so it burns cleaner lot of times they run rich proper fuel air mix help more then anything
Straightforward and helpful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I bought one for my green house. It should be here in March. Thanks for the information!!
I think you will like it. Just make sure your exhaust is lower and can drain any moisture.
Did you ever eventually realize that they are sold on Amazon for cheap and you could get it the next day?
Thanks for this short but sweet video, it has provided useful information. I am just considering the purchase of one of these type of heaters for my newly commissioned mobile workshop. Its 7 x 12 x 6 feet high, and basically is just a cargo box that I forklift onto the back of my flat bed truck. I often get sent to really remote locations in the depths of winter to fix stuff, and I find that stuff sure gets fixed quicker when i am warm.
David in the UK.
That sounds like an awesome setup. One of these heaters would work great for that. I do recommend the fuel line upgrade. I think there’s a link on that video for it in the description. It just seems to make it run a little bit better I don’t really know why it does but it does.
Very good summary of diesel heater use. Cleaning out the burn chamber before shutdown is your best tip, this will greatly increase the time between burn chamber cleanings. Great video!!!
Thanks for watching! Happy you enjoyed the video.
You could spray foam between your rafters and get even better heat retention plus I guarantee you you'll use less fuel plus it will heat lots quicker
I was thinking about that and I also have to get my walls insulated. Just trying to figure out a cost-effective way of doing it.
Good vid, Paul, thanks for the info. I put the smaller version in my VW bus and can run it down to around zero F°. Key to keeping it happy are clean fuel, I use kerosene, seems to make a big difference, and like you say, run it on high most of the time to clean it out- its gotta get hot enough to burn efficiently 👍
Thank you!
If you run your heater on low, it will speed up and clean out the burn chamber before it shuts down. I noticed that on mine after running mine all night on 2 kz I shut it down and the fan sped up and the glowplug came on to burn off any residual fuel in the chamber.
Mine does that on shut down, the fan ramps up for a bit before it shuts down.
I like the straight forward explanation the cause and effect approach.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video.
I just set mine up.. I put a CO meter directly in the exhaust stream.. When it was up to temperature the reading was zero PPM.. I got 100PPM or so during start up/shutdown but the reading in the main part of the shop never went above zero PPM... So, that means there is no reason to run the exhaust outside, now all of the heat is useful for heating.. I was amazed by this and of course will always run a CO detector but I won't be punching a hole in the shop wall.
That’s great. I would still recommend venting your exhaust outside.
@@paulethier3416 Why? My propane heater which is 5 times the size of this diesel heater is direct burn inside the shop.. If this doesn't make any CO then there is no reason to.
Great video. You said the diesel heater isn't the end all be all solution for a garage heater but from the standpoint of economics it actually might be. Your video gave me good insight as to how one of these units may help my situation. I have a 30x40 uninsulated pole barn so I would likely get poor results until I decide to insulate my barn. Either way if it take some off the chill of without gagging me like my torpedo heater I would call that a win.
I agree. Thanks for the comment. After doing multiple home projects this summer I’m saving up so that in the spring I can start insulating my garage. That should give me really good results. It’s definitely better than a torpedo heater. Good luck with the pole barn.
What's a torpedo heater? A propane fanned blower type?
Mine runs on diesel or kerosene. It is an always on forced air heater that puts out a lot of heat but I have mine on a thermostat that can be placed in various locations around the heater to just meet a desired temperature in relation to the high temperature output. The negative side is the fumes are not separate from the heat like they are with the parking heaters. Torpedo heaters are intended as a short term heat solution in large well ventilated areas. Parking heaters can be set up as a more permanent heat solution.@@augustusmaximus891
Well... I know what I need to know now! This is useful. I will still need my propane heater but not as much.
Thanks for commenting.
Thanks for the presentation
Thank you! The diesel heater thing has been a learning experience for me. I'm heading into my second winter so we will see what happens this year.
Hey, A 911EP 360 Star behind ya. Love it!
Had that thing forever 😂😂😂😂
@paulethier3416 nice. That one is roughly 20 years old. I like the products from that company so it caught my eye.
The only person who has mentioned carbon build up running it on low. 👍👍👍
I'm surprised no one else has mentioned it. Thanks for the comment.
Carbon build up is not a problem no matter what setting you use as long as it's tuned right for your altitude. Running it on the lowest setting all the time builds up no more carbon than running it on high.
@@MrHugemoth I've given up always seems to smell and gives me head aches I've seen other people say the same thing too risky on your health
First off, its not an 8000 btu heater. Its an 8 kilowatt heater which translates approximately to 27,000 BTU’s.
Thank you for clarifying.
th-cam.com/video/nuYC3KPG3lc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=n_g5EAVL0pdJAHVU it is actually 10500 BTUs
Also. There's not one of the Chinese diesel heaters that is rated 8kw. The burn chamber are tte same on the acclaimed 5kw and 8kw. In addition, it spends fuel to the amount of 5kw, it does not nearly put out 5kw of heat.
So therew two models. 2.5kw, and the 5kw. It's been picked apart by many and well documented :)
Of you want a proper one, but still cheap. Get a lavaneer/lavaner. Chinese heater, only it's assembled properly, actually quality controlled, tested, and every spec are open to the public. 👌🏼
Also. Burns half a litre per hour.
But kw energy available from a litre of diesel is 10kwh (38Mj)
I installed a Chinese Diesel heater in my 6x12 cargo trailer conversion... I spent all my effort making sure I properly exhausted the unit through my 1 inch insulated wall using a thru-hull stainless outlet as well as using high-temp RTV around my exhaust hose with high quality hose clamps, and thought everything was great.. I now know that I need to also properly setup a thru-hull port for the combustion intake (away from the exhaust). These devices are primitive.. don't trust that the exhaust flow will happen in one direction with 100% certainty... and don't expect your Home Depot CO detector to save you either.. I've smelled the funky smell, and let it go... and it made me pretty sick.. Don't ignore it... do it right.
...also, if you drop the diesel pump frequency, the exhaust-to-intake leak is even worse... Treat the combustion intake just as important as the exhaust itself.
Thanks for commenting and sharing this.
Im a glass blower, i live in ny and i have 1700cfm of ventilation going while my torch is going. I struggle to stay warm in the winter. The best i have found is a 60-90k btu propane salamander, anything over 90k like burns all the oxy out of the air and i start feeling really weird. Was considering the diesel heater but it doesnt seem its gonna be enough heat for me. Thanks for the info!
I would agree, that's a lot of air movement and the heater would not be able to keep up with that.
Great!
Thanks for the tips, I want something I don't have to modify just to make it function properly... one of these days
Great video Paul.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thank you for commenting.
@@paulethier3416 No worries. Keep up the good work.
I have been using mine for 3 years set on temp control so it goes to minimum often when the set point is reached. I always use clean fuel and have done no mods. I have never cleaned it and it runs like a charm. I know it will have to be cleaned at some point. It is the nature of diesel. Always take a look at the exhaust. You shouldn't see any smoke as side from moisture when its really cold, if you do there is a problem.
Thank you. I had a bit of trouble with mine early on but its been running great now for two years. No smoke and I too also only use clean fuel.
Nice video and great info thanks
Thank you for commenting.
A bit late on your video comments... Lol I just bought a fresh one, I have been playing with these for three years or so. My advice for you and all
1) I have bought three, none have had documentation, all had different controllers (thats how I wound up surfing your video, firing yet another black friday heater. My old one worked through a lot of fuel, always worked, but eventually started running a bit dirty and smoking a lot on start.. For 100$ I am replacing it
2) Insulate your garage, at least tbe roof first. You will easily heat it. I started with zero in a 350ish foot old block garage, insulating it lets the heater run on set 1 or 2 (1/4 litre per hourish in Ontario February winter.
3) Dont burn used oil. This has been researched a tonne and the china heaters will guck up fast no matter how clean you think the oil is. I burn only fuel diesel from the local station and burn my used oil elsewhere.
3) Put in a cold air intake. They love cold air and it keeps your warm air in.
4) There is a lot of lost heat on the exhaust, but dont vent inside! I made a heat exchanger from a surplus princess auto tractor muffler, I run the generic a three foot stainless exhaust in a triple coil into that. All coild slope slightly down. I blow a 8 inch fan over this.This saves a ton of heat, shocking really, maybe as much as 20% effciency improvement.
@@AncientMechanic64 Thanks for commenting and sharing this information. I’ve finished all my other big house projects. Garage insulation is next on the agenda.
How does your exhaust heat exchanger work? What kind of tractor muffler? Need an excuse to Princess Auto anyways...
@@rockyfelicia7826
Essentially I hung my heater about four feet up, I run the typical 3 foot stainless exhaust exhaust down in a coil into the top. All sealed with aluminum tape The tractor muffler was a surplus item for 20$ a couple years ago, may not be as cheap. It has 2 inch inlets. I ran one out through the wall and the coil into ths inlet, all heading down so condensation doesnt accumlate. A fan blows from the floor up.over this to remove heat. There are lots of simiar ideas around youtube using iron pipe or an old house steam radiator. The main thing is to have lots of metal surface area to remove tbe heat.
Excellent!
Good info. thank you
You're welcome. Thanks for commenting.
This heater is really about 10K btu. Diesel contains about 33K btu per liter, burn rate is about .35l an hour on high, so only 10K ish btus are available for heat if it were 100% efficient. But with all that heat escaping as exhaust its not giving full btu as diesel has. To reclaim exhaust heat I put a 6' stainless exhuast ran through aluminum downspouting filled halfway with sand. This helps extract lost exhaust heat along with a small fan. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info and the great idea.
Are you running your air intake inside the garage and your exhaust outside the garage? If so you are pulling cold outside air into the garage and making the heater less effective. Maybe it doesn't make a huge difference since you're not insulated garage anyway but you may be able to run your intake outside and achieve higher temperatures in the garage.
Can you still smell the diesel from the fuel container?
No, there is no diesel smell
Awesome! I wonder if this bad boy would run on 50/50 diesel and filtered waste motor oil?
I know people tried it and it works for some but I’ve not tried it myself
Don’t! Just don’t…you’ll have nothing but trouble…they run very frugal and trouble free on diesel, kero, or heating oil..just a headache playing around with alternative fuels and why? It’s not a truck getting 10mpg it’s a DIESEL heater running 8hrs on one gallon at high 😂 do you want to ice skate uphill also 🤷♂️
FYI, increase the minimum set fan speed for cleaner combustion on low, it soots up because of being too rich fuel/air mixture. A little research will turn up the master code for your model. Once the unit is at operating temperature, bump up the set fan speeds so hardly no black smoke is seen from exhaust. I went up 200rpms and haven’t had issues with soot buildup since. Before that; If the heater did soot up or got flooded with fuel, a trick I used was a shop vac hose hooked up to the vac exhaust as to blow in the intake at a high volume and blow out excess fuel or carbon without disassembling the whole thing.
They will run on filtered waste oil + diesel but you will only get 2 maybe 3 tanks of fuel through it before it blocks up the burn chamber and then need a major cleaning. If you don't mind cleaning them out 2 times a week it's fine, they will run on mixtures of waste oil and diesel. I think they are over rated and very labor intensive. Once the inside of the flame chamber gets full of soot there is a gauze in there that is supposed to glow red hot to help combustion, this gauze can not be seen unless it is cut in half , but when it is clogged with carbon and soot it will begin to carbon up faster each time between cleans. As I wrote in the above comment the only real way to clean behind this gauze where the gunk builds up is to use Hydrochloric acid. Because there is no access for tools to be used on this part unless the burn chamber is cut open.
I have one and it won’t stay on. The fuel pump isn’t moving fuel from tank to machine and have tried a new pump as well. Have a 12v 60w inverter for power and had a battery on it and it won’t start up completely. Stays on for 20 secs and shuts down
Did you check the vent on the fuel tank? Make sure that is venting properly.
1:50 they were saying lot of things. I didnt seen one important. this filter can be unscrew to be opened and cleaned. For this you need the dirt to be outside of the screen. The clogging reasons seems to me like nonsense.
Thank you for commenting.
They work fine for the first few months but once the inside of the flame chamber,(which has a mesh surrounding it which can't be seen unless it is cut in half ) gets full of carbon it will start to carbon up faster each time and will not combust the fuel properly causing more soot and carbon build ups in the exhaust and burn chamber. You can't pull the burn chambers apart to clean the inside and no tools will scrape away the carbon build up behind this mesh. the only thing I have found that removes it but also corrodes the mesh a bit each time is Hydrochloric acid, most the buildup turs to a black smelly sludge and can be rinsed out with water. I can't see any other way to clean this and acid was the last resort, I feared it may dissolve the mesh entirely but if done quickly with ample rinsing with fresh water seems to work fine so far. If you have an old blocked burn chamber that is not working give the acid a shot and see if it works for you.
You can get spare parts for these heaters.
Wouldn’t an old school kerosene heater be just as good or better since you don’t lose heat from an exhaust?
The old school kerosene heater produces carbon monoxide. This does too but this separates the combustion, pushes the exhaust outside and uses a heat exchanger and fan to distribute the hot air. You should still have a CO detector handy but this is way safer than a typical kerosene heater.
Shouldn't you have the intake from the outside, so you don't make underpreassure?
Yes, probably but my garage is not very tight anyway. If to have an insulated garage then it’s an absolute must
so when its minus 45deg celcius where i live it'll raise the temp 20deg to minus 25 deg. perfect i can work in my garage in a t shirt and shorts.
My experience with my uninsulated garage is 20 degrees f above the outside temperature. If you have a bigger area or more insulation it could be different in your situation.
Lmao.
The harder fuel line makes zero difference as there isnt any pressure in the fuel line when running, it is basically gravity fed and the pump just meters the flow it dosent pump under pressure..
Thanks for commenting and sharing this information.
How much fuel does it burn per hour?
On high it burns about 1 tank (1gal.) per 12 hours.
I bought one it lasted about 6 hours before it packed up
Think it's worth spending that bit more on a quality one
Well watching this video I have learnt a lot thankyou
Sorry to hear that. Other than the initial carbon problem that I think has been resolved mine seems to be working ok.
Hi is it ok to run the heater fuel pipe 14 ft length thank you
Im not sure. I’ve seen people try to capture the exhaust heat by running it through a heat exchanger. So I guess it could work.
How many amps is your 12v power supply please,
15amp continuous, 18amp surge
WARNING!:Be very careful with combustion air intake inside. If power fails during a firing cycle the unit will not have the shut down cycle. This means the combustion chamber is full of fuel and it will vaporize unburned and come out the intake tube. Choking fumes that really stink. Never leave it running unattended.
Thank you for sharing this information with us
Thanks for sharing man!!! I am so not looking forward for the winter here in Alberta, yet I must start now getting ready for it. Cheers!
Cheaper off ebay for same thing, but why cant people wait a few days for delivery
I have one question about It With 1 liter Oil how long it will work i mean how long it will Heat exactly
With the on-board tank full and running on high it will run for about 14 hours. I never run it on a lower setting so I'm not sure how long that would last on low. I suspect it would run 24hours on low setting. Thanks for the comment.
@@paulethier3416 thankyou so much sir and how can i order one of this in my country in kosovo
I'm not sure if you have access to Amazon but there are links in the description for the heater and other parts.
@@paulethier3416 thank you god bless you ✌️
@@paulethier341632 1/2 hours on low, some people are getting.
does'nt Your diesel heater both start and stop at full speed? - Is'nt that enough to burn the sooth out of the system?
I think it starts at the level that was set when you turn it off.
What's the number 1 thing you would personally recommend then?
Use clean diesel from the pump. Don't try to use old oil mixed with diesel or something like that. Just go to the pump and buy diesel. And, make sure your exhaust setup allows for condensation to drain. Thanks for the question and comment.
Can u burn kerosene
I’m not sure. I’ve heard of people mixing kerosene with the diesel. I’ve always burned regular highway diesel from the pump.
@@paulethier3416 thanks
Just throw some diesel 911 in it when it gets super cold.
It doesn’t get cold enough to gel the diesel. The heater is just not strong enough without insulation. I’m happy I bought it and used it this winter. It really is cheap affordable heat. Thanks for commenting.
Lots of heat is dumped out the exhaust and you maximized the waste by insulating it; why?
I wrapped the exhaust to protect from radiant heat. Thanks for the question.
How long does a tank of diesel last?
I get about 12 hours or so on high setting.
12 hours on one tank is exactly the question I wanted to ask. But the question on top of that is will a fully charged car battery run the heater for 12 hours also? I want to put it on the deck of my boat and run the heat into the cabin. The cabin is the size of a minivan.
Too complicated, too expensive, too things to go wrong. Thanks a bunch for the video.
I would give it a try. They really are not that bad. The problem is people try to use them for something they are not. They are typically designed for truck cabs, vans or small spaces and people push the limits. Not sure what your heating but I had an installation problem (me) and once I fixed it, its been running for 2 years with no issues. None. Thanks for commenting.
Your fuel filter inlet should have the fuel going to the outside of the filter element. if you have the fuel go inside the element it will fill up with debris like a cup and clog the filter easier!
Thank you for commenting. This has been pointed out to me many times. When I installed it I did not notice that I installed it wrong. Its been changed since the video.
You keep saying 25 degrees but you forgot to say if that’s degrees F or degrees C?
Thanks for asking the question. The measurement is in Fahrenheit.
It's 8 kw not btu.
You forgot power .. need 13.5 volts
Good Catch. I just assumed everyone knew that but your right some people don't. Thanks for commenting.
was -25 c where the hell are you antartica lol?
I had to watch the video again. It was 25 degrees F outside. Thanks for the comment.
thank you very much for this great video - and the others!
This guy actual uses the exhaustion heat in addition to the blowing out heat: th-cam.com/video/6WrCJcfICF4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=UEhwrvA9k1XAbhAV
Happy you enjoyed them.
One year later! Is your heater still operating properly? Thinking about investing in one?
Yes! It’s been working fine I’ve been using it for two years. This will be the third winter, but I haven’t started it yet this winter, but I’m not anticipating any problems.
@ Thanks for the reply.
Just a note - The Kw is NOT Kilowatt it's CALORIE watt. So these 8K units should be putting out 27000 BTUs.
Thank you for sharing that, I always wondered how that converted.
What kinda crap are you rambling on about? Kw stands for Kilowatt on these heaters and on anywhere it says Kw. I have no idea what you have smoked to come up with CALORIE WATT.
Calorie watt hahahaha. This guy smooooke. Who is your dealer
@@pacopet1234 Took you long enough.
I'd like too know how you power up this heater, because I hear on start up the glow plugs need up to 15amps / 120w supply this will drop when it's warmed up to under 10amps / 40w. Most lithium battery generators only have about 10amps max, unless it comes with a suitable brick converta this is a small problem.