There are actually now real 8 KW heaters, so you might be ok. Honestly, if you're not running it at altitude I would just keep the settings stock, or make note of the stock settings and tune down the Hz just a little bit (10%) and see how it runs.
@@dustyodyssey Thank You so much for the reply. That gives me some comfort of not having wasted money!! I bought the VEVOR 12v 8Kw so hopefully all will be well.
HVAC installer since 1986 here, great vid! Safety tip for those who are mechanically able - I pressure test all my diesel heaters before installing them with a dewalt vaccum/blower (not a leaf blower) or similar to check for possible leaks by pressurizing the combustion chamber similar to pressurizing a 2 stroke engine when doing a leak test. Block or plug the exhaust port and blow into the intake port. Use soapy water around every gasket and seal on the unit. You'd be surprised! Every one of these I have bought, brand new, has leaks, everywhere! I disassemble and reassemble using high temp rtv on both sides of gaskets and around all rubber fittings and tubes, let it set up overnight and re-test by pressurizing with low pressure, gently. The only place that cannot be sealed is the fan motor shaft near the bearings but is in a negative pressure zone and shouldn't be much of a concern. I am extremely, overly sensitive to gases, vapors and smells of any kind and they make me sick. Even though a CO detector can show a zero reading, the exhaust is still bad for you if it enters the living area. I also vent the breather hole on the fuel cap to the outside with a piece of tubing and a barbed fitting screwed into the cap as I found that it puffs fumes at the same rate as the ump pulsates. I guarantee all of these have leaks, even when new out of the box. Safety first. :)
This video is an absolute masterclass. I went from not knowing anything about diesel heaters to having a clear plan on use and maintain one safely. Love this kind of content, you're an excellent teacher
I have three of these heaters doing different duties from a shack to my workshop. In the workshop I ran a 2metre long exhaust tube through the wall into the metal shop along it's wall with a 1° fall then through an external wall to the outside. The heat from the 1.6m of exhaust tubing running along that wall in the metal shop (with a stainless heat reflector/shield) is amazing, it makes a big difference in winter just utilising exhaust heat that would otherwise be wasted. To get the fuel mixture right on that setup I had to increase the fan speed by 600rpm and it seems good so far, but I also run a dual fuel supply which lets me (electronically) switch over to a high volume outside tank containing 50/50 waste oil and diesel mix after running temp is reached, then I switch back to straight diesel around 10-15 minutes before shutdown and crank the temp up as it helps clean the mesh glow plug wick for the next start, if I peer oy the window I can spot an occasional spark exit the exhaust during this burn off, so it's doing something. This system has been running around three years with zero soot build up, I did replace the glow plug once shortly after the installation and I bought several spares, but so far the replacement has lasted well. I also use copper never seize on the bolts and glow plug which makes removal a breeze. All my systems run on solar power with a 100W solar panel charging a bunch of recycled car batteries, the system will start any time of day or night and can go 24 hours a day without losing charge, even in winter with short days. Cheers.
Most fuel pumps do better pushing fuel than sucking it out of a long line. You want the pump to last longer, have it as close to the tank as you can OR have it lower than the tank. It will also help with priming.
The asbestos in the gasket isn’t an issue unless they are flaking apart. Also never use a grinder or wire wheel to remove gasket material from housing. Gently Use a scraper to help remove. You can also dampen the gasket to reduce chances of making asbestos airborne. I worked with asbestos periodically my whole career.
The asbestos gaskets are definitely an issue since the cabin air is flowing right around the side of the aluminum burner and gasket which is always flaking at the edges and asbestos contaminated air can get distributed into the cabin air. So if you buy a chinese knock off diesel heater, replace the gaskets for gods sake...
I was a central heating engineer, and part of the job was to check in people's lofts for white asbestos if the boiler (furnace) flue ran through the loft. Once I lifted the loft access panel to discover the whole loft was at least 6" deep in fluffy white asbestos. I quickly held my breath, gently closed the loft access, got down my step ladder and told the householder what I had seen, what they need to do and quickly left the house. I don't think these gaskets here pose a problem but anyway when I service mine I will dismantle this heater outside in the open air.
A crucial step you left out, you must check the exhaust gas for carbon monoxide levels after adjusting. If it's too weak or rich the figures will sky rocket and quickly become a health hazard, and with a window open or leaks in to the living area present a serious problem. Even a cheap Ebay monoxide tester (those yellow ones for $25) will do the job, just hold it a foot or so away from the exhaust so it does not melt on a calm day and take several readings at low medium and high output power. You need to aim for 20 to 50ppm at all power levels (20 at low and 50 at high). I have found 1.6@1680/5.0@4500 the sweet spot for 0 to 2500ft ft alt, 1.4@1680/4.5@4500 for 2500 to 5000ft alt, and 1.3@1680/4.0@4500 for 5000 to 7500ft alt. 25 to 50ppm carbon monoxide is the key indicator for correct combustion/fuel to air ratio. Not had any sooting for years at those settings using good quality fuel on any of my 5's. Running a 50/50 mix of diesel and kerosene is an even better option in cold winter months for clean burns. Some great info for many in your video by the way!!
That is a good point! I knew I forgot to mention something. Out of curiosity if you are running too lean how high do the CO numbers get? I change elevation all the time so constantly re-tuning the heater isn't exactly practical, but I think for a static installation this is a great tip to get the most out of your heater while minimizing CO exposure.
@@dustyodyssey There seems to be a sweet spot window of about .3hz/.4hz where everything runs fine (about .15hz/.2hz either side of correct). So if your target was 1680@1.6hz then you would get to 1.5hz perhaps 1.4hz and not affect the ppm (or at most 10ppm) then when you drop to 1.3hz it will suddenly rocket to several hundred ppm (and much higher at times!). Same goes for increasing, 1.7hz and 1.8hz would usually be ok (just), but at 1.9hz and a sudden rapid ppm increase. It can vary a little, sometimes the sharp rise could happen on the second step above or below, so it can vary on temperature (air density) and other factors including the altitude. Fuel type and mixing fuels also affects fuel/rpm ratio and ppm, but that's a whole different topic! (for example one of mine has run at 1.2@1680 on 80%kero/20%diesel@15ppm 1000ft which is super low and clean!)
So - isn't the risk of excess CO _higher_ when you run too _rich_ (not enough oxygen), versus too lean? I always understood that too-lean virtually eliminates CO output - but at the expense of heat produced. I.e. prioritising 'safety' over efficiency/warmth per unit of diesel consumed.
@@jamie-hb8gy That's interesting, in engines running lean results in a drop of CO because you have excess oxygen to react with the fuel. That's interesting that it doesn't work that way in diesel heaters.
I bought a Vevor 5kw off Amazon shortly before you released this video. The model is XMZ-D2. There’s some possible differences you might want to be aware of: 1. Your smelly rubber gasket no longer smells. I took a flame to it to see if I could tell if it’s silicone or not, I’m not sure, but it didn’t emit black smoke. Smelled a bit worse but not terrible. Did they change it to silicone? Inconclusive. 2. The internal vibration dampers are now green on the side facing the components of the heater and are made of two different materials. Or at least two different color materials, green and white. Did they add flame proof liner to the pads? I have no idea, but it looks different than yours. 3. The color of the unit is orange and black, not grey. Fuel line is still green, positive voltage wire looks to be about 14 gauge. Fuel pump model is CNMZ-23, is that the same as yours? I find it odd they’d send you a lesser model than one they sell already. Or maybe this is all just smoke and mirrors and they’re exactly the same. I’ll install it in a week and can provide feedback.
I am loving this video in so many ways. Love how you're not holding back on the honest review. The info is on point and the alternative options are well researched. Great work Max!!!
6:58 How should the exhaust gases get inside when you proper install the exhaust piping? Usually there ist sitting the exhaust tube with a clamp on I guess? Am I wrong?
I agree with others - you're a great teacher! Yes, I love your outdoor adventures. And I also love learning about things I'd always imagined would be out of reach for me. Thank you!
Great tutorial for using these cheap Chinese diesel heaters 👍. I bought a Vevor all in one, just like your unbranded one, and it worked brilliantly straight out of the box, I guess I got lucky 😅
Informative video. Prior to watching it, I ordered and installed a 2K Vevor with Bluetooth, Smart and Level mode and timer. It was only $90 with tax and shipping. I upgraded the fuel line and used a turret. I mounted the fuel tank above the pump and heater so there's no "pulling" by the pump which I often see mentioned. Prior to starting, I pulled the intake line from the pump and fuel filled the line in less than a minute. I didn't need to prime and it started within a couple minutes just by turning it on. I didn't notice any odd smells or smoke from the exhaust. My only complaint so far is the manual, but between Google and various TH-cam all my questions have been answered.
Thank you for that excellent and honest video! I don't even plan to install a diesel heater in my van but I was sticked to my screen for all the video!
There are lots of second-rate videos on youtube about these heaters. As a retired oil fired boiler engineer I think this video is as far above the rest as Everest is above sea level. Thank you so much for explaining all the things the others don't bother with such as the pump Hz and max / min fan speeds. Also the observations about replacing rubber with silicone to get rid of smells. I will now go and give my diesel heater a good seeing-to :)
Thanks for sharing your review and thoughts on these types of heaters,I use 2 to warm my rv and they work very well.i run pump diesle and also use an internal filter in my fuel tank, plus an external filter just to be extra sure I'm running clean diesle in my heaters.
Well done video. These things remind me of nearly every tool from Harbor Freight; it’s fine “if” you do this & that! Great deep dive into the guts of these little machines. Cheers and safe travels.
Awesome! You have so much experience and explain all the nuances and variables that so many videos leave out... And leave you scratching your head. Thanks for this highly informative and useful video. I've subscribed. You're a cool dude. I wonder how you're making money on the road. That's the only tiny detail I haven't figured out. Otherwise I'd be out there tomorrow morning.! 😊
had my all in one for 3 years .. no issues at all ..tho i have made some changes and dismantled it and bought a bigger tank ..ive also mounted pump outside ... i use it every weekend so im pleased with it ... great video
Very well explained. I've been waiting for the "Pinto moment" where a wildly popular thing is suddenly discovered to have a huge flaw and that isn't happening with these heaters. The few issues some people have are seemingly rather easily and cheaply correctable. I've already decided to use one of these as my primary heat source for my travel trailer when the money becomes available and I'm wondering if the output could be tied in to the existing duct system? I can't see why not but it would be nice to hear if someone else has done this. Editing to add: If you use one of those intake air filters, buy a genuine "K&N" brand filter. These were originally designed for motorcycles and in that field (and among car tuners too) it's well known that the knock-offs are much more restrictive as well as being less efficient at filtering. Positively worth the extra cost for K&N filters.
Based on what I've seen on the forums others have hooked these up to their existing ducting systems with a little creativity. Depending on how big your travel trailer is and how cold it's going to be where you're going you may find that you want more heat though. And I did look at K&N but decided that a dry filter sounded easier to maintain, also I wasn't sure if I would be smelling the filter oil all the time? We'll see how this one works though, definitely an experiment.
@@dustyodyssey Thanks for the reply. K&N's can be ran 'dry', their recommended oiling enhances filtration at a slight cost of airflow but they're still flowing more air than the off-brands do. Not sure about any smell of the oil, my experience is as a motorcycle (and car) mechanic. As long as your filter is working OK use it, but when the paper element deteriorates replace it with a K&N for max airflow and lowest restriction. I'm semi-retired in the upstate of SC, so no bad cold weather here and even a 4K setting on a Mr buddy heater is toasty-warm but expensive to run compared to what I've heard about these diesel heaters, and I'm replacing all the 30 year old equipment as well as getting set up for solar eventually to minimize my living costs. I'm also going to be doing a semi-conversion on my equally old ex-work van for short term occupancy and small job work where one of these heaters will be exactly what I need.
Thanks for your review and walkthrough about what to consider when setting up a diesel heater. I'm getting ready to set one up in my Mercedes T2 camper van. In your opinion, would there be any disadvantage to just setting up the entire unit out side, but under, my van? I've got loads of space to work with under the van and I could even conformal coat any PCBs that need it and apply poly to other sensitive connections. I'd prefer this solution because the van was converted 30 years ago to an RV and so there aren't really many optimate spots to mount it directly to the bare metal floor but I do have an area that would accommodate a vent hole to inlet the heat into the van. Either way - cheers and thanks for maintaining your integrity with the reviews, I think it'll serve you well as your channel continues to grow!
As I am sure you are aware, these units are not exactly waterproof. Surely it's possible, but frankly I don't have any experience with what could go wrong. I would recommend having two vents, one for the heated air and one for return air. If the "cabin" air inlet is outside not only is your heater going to be a lot less efficient, but you also run the risk of pulling exhaust gasses into your living space.
wow u seem like the god of diesel heaters lots of good information for sure and unbiased input, i was wondering if you knew what kind of diesel heater or what size i should get for a 12 by 40 ft shop with 18ft high ceilings
Depends a lot on climate, insulation and expectations, but I would think you'll need a lot of power to heat a space that big. I would recommend a 5kw or a "real" 8kw if you can find one
Very well spoken, and informative. Basically buy the heater, toss everything away except the core and build from there. I bought the Vevor Bluetooth model and I love the Thermostat mode. I put the APP on my phone when I bought the unit, but now you can't get the app. So I cant add it to my tablet or wifes phone ??? It's available but wont load for some reason.
@ Haha sure! I hard-wired the heater to a 12v 100Ah Litime LFP battery. There’s an in-line fuse on the positive wire from the diesel heater, it was already there when I bought it.
Reposted son others can see: I have the Vevor DIY version and must have gotten lucky, it's been awesome for 2 winters plus. Right out of the box with no adjustments, although my model is supposed to be self altitude sensitive.. My tanks are mounted outside (no fuel smells or spillage risks), my pump is also outside. Everything is protected and my advantage is my 5th wheel is permanently boondocked (no water or electric, I filter rain water and have a generator). Being permanent, I don't have the worries of mobility like your van. As for power, mine runs directly off of 2 Type 27 Marine/RV lead acid batteries that recharge from a solar panel (again I am permanently parked). I think it is imperative these are not run by direct AC to 12VDC power in case you experience a sudden power outage. When yours smoked when unplugged is why I think this is important. Also, turning these off by power interruption does stress the logic board with all that heat remaining inside the housing withoit the blower cooling it down with a proper shut off. I think then reason I also got lucky was I had to ditch all the hoses that came in my kit (green line) and went with nylon as you speak of (watched a lot of videos). Wasn't a choice since my tank is about 4 feet away from the heater itself. Plus the soft line expands and contracts which is counter productive to the pump. Also, since I have such a long run of fuel line, I had to source better clamps. In a nutshell, buy cheap, but ditch the fuel line, fuel filter, and clamps. Upgrade those minimally. Another thing I "lucked out" on is the rubber gasket wouldn't work for my application, so it was inadherently omitted during my install. You were the first to mention the rubber gasket being junk and the wrong material to be safe. So, by a lot of luck based on my install, I removed most of the weak points by default. Only thing I disagree with is where to mount the fuel pump. I believe the proper location is to be closest to the fuel tank. Those pumps can push fuel more than they can draw. Just like a car's fuel pump. There is a reason they are mounted in the fuel tanks and not at the engine. Except older cars with mechanical pumps on the engine. Mine has no problem pushing fuel up 4-5 feet to my heater. The little vibration gaskets you showed inside the housing is interesting. New news to me and I will replace them if/when I ever have to service this heater. But for now, I do not get any smells at all. Fingers crossed that remains unchanged. If I do, that'll be the first thing I check, so thank you. All-in-all you have had the best review and guidance by far for ideas, explanation, thoroughness. You were spot on to start your video with safety first suggesting a monitor. This can be a matter of life and death. So absolute kudos for mentioning that. Great video and thank you.
Hi I was filling the fuel line with a syringe to prime it and now I’ve got fuel coming out of the air filter hose?? Wondering if you could help please. Thanks
You are running this off a 30A 12V power supply you happened to have on hand. These heaters usually have a 12V 40W rating printed on the back, which is almost one tenth the power you are using. I’m just curious whether I can dig a much smaller one out of my box of junk power supplies. It would be interesting to see the actual current draw during the start when powering the glow plug, then during the run at various fuel feed rates and then powering the glow plug for the shut-down cleaning cycle. Your video is very detailed. Good information.
Yes. I see that those manufacturers who provide AC/DC power supplies with their heaters include 10A. It seems to me that rating their heaters 40W (which appears to be the continuous current draw after start up) that really draw 120W at startup isn’t a good way to describe their product although I can’t say that the heaters wont start with a lower current supplied but take longer for the glow plug to come to temp. I’m going to have to do some testing when I get my heater. (I have bigger power supplies but would rather use the smallest I can get away with. It looks like using too small a power supply can coke up the unit and the glow plug and combustion chamber will have to be cleaned or replaced.) Thanks for your reply.
On the first start-up with my heater, I bumped the power plug(which was loose) and the heater shut down instantly from power loss......I heard a dull/muffled 'boom' and I thought I blew it up. I just waited about 45 minutes to let it cool, and it started right up and has been running on high with no issues.
hehe, i have been driving a diesel for the past 12 years, but completely forgot that it is entirely possible to combust diesel without pressure. after your explanation at ~ 5:30 i was very confused for a few minutes :D i was expecting so see pretty much a small engine once you took that thing apart
32:00 The burning plastic is the heater itself inside the case burning the case. There is normally a flow of air preventing the plastic case from getting how and melting. 😆
What is that right fuel line called? And also the bigger black one? Do you have amazon links to these parts? I am very much in need of a good fuel line due to air bubbles in this current one...
It's usually referred to as a nylon fuel line. I have not bought this before, but I think this looks like a decent quality option. www.amazon.com/Fuel-Filter-Hose-Clip-Pipe/dp/B0BT754L8J/
Hey man,i have the same issue with the later tuneable ecu as it allows the Hz to go down lower than stored but in my case i've found it ignores any Hz lower than set,you are correct about the older ecu not having this bug.
Although many will disagree, the fuel pump mounted in a vertical position will increase its longevity with complete lubrication of the pulsating cylinder, also the rubber glow plug seal needs to be properly installed or you will get exhaust in the cabin area. For the body intake you can adapt a shop vac filter with flex tubing to avoid dust and debris on the heat exchanger.
Great video have you played with the advanced settings? I read there are advanced settings for higher altitude. We live at 5k and are often higher. Never-ending you covered it! Awesome summary!
I hear people use these for roof top tents, I have not because I feel that even if I have the unit outside it would still smell my tent up with diesel smell. Even if it is safe, I don't like the smell of diesel especially when I am trying to sleep. Do you think Kerosene would be less stinky and I am I correnct in thinking I will smell the diesel fuel in my roof top tent? Cheers, Great information by the way.
I have not run kero, so I couldn't tell you, but I would assume it's not all that different from diesel. If I have my windows open for cooking and the wind blows a certain way I do definitely get a slight smell inside, but most of the time there is no smell, but I can imagine in a tent you may smell it from time to time, but I wouldn't think it would be too bad. Cheers!
The instruction booklet to my Eberspacher heater states to use diesel/kerosene mix in sub zero temperatures it says to use neat kerosene at -25*c and below, hop this is of some help.
Do you get any smell on startup only?? Mine gets combustion in the heated air for a second. Then runs clean . Is it back puffing through the air hole and out the glow plug grommet/wires?? During pre purge on ignition Any one!
Folks are continually saying that you get what you pay for , From my own experience of thses heaters is that they worth double what they cost. I would say is that fitting these heaters should not be done by arm chair experts.. When fitted correctly they are very efficient safe and long lasting.
What is ur opinion, I changed glow plug,put it back on ,started it up worked for aweek than the fault code came up 0 8 ,when I start it up goes for 10 min with glow plug symbol than dissappear,now it blows cool air
e08 is usually an issue with fueling or a clogged (sooted) combustion chamber. Is this a new setup or has it been sitting for a while? can you check that the lines are primed and the pump is pumping?
Just bought a brand new diesel heater. Installed the exhaust outside. Put some exhaust paist on the exhaust. Every time I turn it on I get a headache. I have carbon monoxide alarm but does not go off. Anyone got any ideas what’s wrong. I have used just under a tank of diesel so far
Important to note that the moisture in the exhaust pipe comes condensation of the water within the exhaust gas, since burning hydrocarbon fuels like diesel, gasoline or gas creates carbon dioxide and water. When the by cold outdoor air cooled surface of the pipe extracts heat from the exhaust gas, the water will condensate there.
If you cut and splice the wires, are you really reducing resistance or increasing current capacity? Are you making a soldered connection or some sort of crimp? Overall, great review of these products. Normally, reviewers just rave about them and never highlight the flaws.
Excellent, thorough review. I would recommend watching Joshua De Lisle's TH-cam channel for complimentary information. And yes, the outright deception and false advertising that Amazon permits vendors of these heaters to get away with is appalling. Buyer beware. On another note, would you happen to have a link to the power supply that you used? I currently run my via a Jackery 1000 Explorer, but it's a big ask of the little cigarette lighter outlet to give me nearly 10 amps for several minutes. Cheers!
Also forgot, I added 2 fuel shut off valves. One before the pump and one after in case I need to seevice/replace the pump. This keeps the fuel spillage to a minimum for anything I need to do in the future. Also allows me to keep fuel in the line when the camper isn't be used, thus fuel can't seep back down into the tank requiring me to prime it each time. Since my heater and tank is 4-5 feet away from the heater.
What brand of diesel heater do you have? I've watched too many videos with these cheap heaters and their issues. Lol I looked into the main brand and yes very expensive but there has to be better options. I really want a mini wood stove but those aren't cheap either. Lol very good video, Dusty! I had to share it with another van lifer!
I bought mine (unbranded) from an ebay seller called "echamptrading2017" haha. It actually looks like they are one of the few sellers that are still shipping out the good fuel line, and you can get the "advanced remote" which is tunable. But, with all of this stuff you're kind of taking a gamble that the quality will be there.
I agree that running the heater full blast is not necessary to prevent carbon buildup. Mine has been used 99% on the lowest setting for 3 years with no carbon buildup.
my lcd screen was blacked out when i got home today, its 2 years old, doing its second winter now... does anyone know what the problem is and if i buy a new controller, will that fix the problem ?.
That's weird, the LCD backlight can "fade" over time if they are left powered on all the time. Might be worth turning off the lights and checking if it's not just super dim. Next thing of course would be to check the basics, does it turn on when you press the button? Make sure you have power, the controller is plugged in, etc. If you do need a new controller I would buy one that is paired with a motherboard since your unit is so old. A new bare controller (LCD) may work, but there's a good chance it won't be compatible with the old motherboard.
@@dustyodyssey wow thanks for the reply ! so its totally dead, the heater wont run being the controller is totally dead. all fues's are fine, i cant seem to find anything disconnected on the positive or negative lines. just no reponse. if i buy a new one, ill need to buy it with the motherborad that goes in the diesel heater itself ? thanks heaps for the reply.
@@jaaayg2791 Might be worth checking your power supply with a multimeter, and unplugging the heater for a bit to see if it will reset. But assuming you have good clean power and it’s still not lighting up I would guess it’s an issue with the motherboard or controller so yes, replacing both with a matching set would be my recommendation.
Greetings. Kt is dare 2 find an honest review with donated products. I am thinking they liked that, however it is a smart way 2 demo products and improve. Thx EXCUSE MY ERRORS. 1 eye not good with typing.
All in all you know as much as a person would by reading the manual or watching a few videos like this one that you made I am shocked that you got a company to ship you a couple of these units based on you knowledge.
Forget about these paper gasgets buy high temperature silocone gasgets works better and use the metal exhaust as air intake as well for safety reasons because the black flexible stuff starts to break down eventually and if it's inside you may get blow back and carbon monoxide poisoning. 😊
Well there is asbestos rope gasket we used a lot of asbestos gasket in aircraft engines. But this is just high temperature paper and burns after a while you'll see when the burn chamber is opened after a few weeks and wouldn't do on aircraft engines. 😊
The complaint about the all in one exaust is certainly not valid as it exactly the same as every other unit. I really have no idea how he makes the claim.
There are numerous videos from numerous content creators, all saying the same thing. If you get an all in one unit that never has any issues, it would be the exception, not the rule.
@xwhite2020 the joint most likely to leak is where the exhaust pipe joints to the unit, this joint is outside when a heater is fitted to the van floor but with the all in one that joint is inside where you are 👍
FYI I think the criticism is well deserved. Compared to what was selling just 3 years ago for the same (or less) money, the products that were sent to me are very poor quality. Unfortunately, nothing like this is made in the US, and the name brand options are easily $1200+
So I messed up and bought the 8 kw heater. How do I tune it properly to get the kinks worked out of it?
There are actually now real 8 KW heaters, so you might be ok. Honestly, if you're not running it at altitude I would just keep the settings stock, or make note of the stock settings and tune down the Hz just a little bit (10%) and see how it runs.
@@dustyodyssey Thank You so much for the reply. That gives me some comfort of not having wasted money!! I bought the VEVOR 12v 8Kw so hopefully all will be well.
@@KenCorcran 8kw is a lie, there is no way your getting 8kw of heat from the amount of diesel used. Physics don't lie.
HVAC installer since 1986 here, great vid! Safety tip for those who are mechanically able - I pressure test all my diesel heaters before installing them with a dewalt vaccum/blower (not a leaf blower) or similar to check for possible leaks by pressurizing the combustion chamber similar to pressurizing a 2 stroke engine when doing a leak test. Block or plug the exhaust port and blow into the intake port. Use soapy water around every gasket and seal on the unit. You'd be surprised! Every one of these I have bought, brand new, has leaks, everywhere! I disassemble and reassemble using high temp rtv on both sides of gaskets and around all rubber fittings and tubes, let it set up overnight and re-test by pressurizing with low pressure, gently. The only place that cannot be sealed is the fan motor shaft near the bearings but is in a negative pressure zone and shouldn't be much of a concern. I am extremely, overly sensitive to gases, vapors and smells of any kind and they make me sick. Even though a CO detector can show a zero reading, the exhaust is still bad for you if it enters the living area. I also vent the breather hole on the fuel cap to the outside with a piece of tubing and a barbed fitting screwed into the cap as I found that it puffs fumes at the same rate as the ump pulsates. I guarantee all of these have leaks, even when new out of the box. Safety first. :)
This video is an absolute masterclass. I went from not knowing anything about diesel heaters to having a clear plan on use and maintain one safely.
Love this kind of content, you're an excellent teacher
Thanks! I’m glad you found this useful!
Better one. th-cam.com/video/4tiSEGO6pYI/w-d-xo.html
Master class? This is his first time doing this.
I have three of these heaters doing different duties from a shack to my workshop. In the workshop I ran a 2metre long exhaust tube through the wall into the metal shop along it's wall with a 1° fall then through an external wall to the outside. The heat from the 1.6m of exhaust tubing running along that wall in the metal shop (with a stainless heat reflector/shield) is amazing, it makes a big difference in winter just utilising exhaust heat that would otherwise be wasted. To get the fuel mixture right on that setup I had to increase the fan speed by 600rpm and it seems good so far, but I also run a dual fuel supply which lets me (electronically) switch over to a high volume outside tank containing 50/50 waste oil and diesel mix after running temp is reached, then I switch back to straight diesel around 10-15 minutes before shutdown and crank the temp up as it helps clean the mesh glow plug wick for the next start, if I peer oy the window I can spot an occasional spark exit the exhaust during this burn off, so it's doing something. This system has been running around three years with zero soot build up, I did replace the glow plug once shortly after the installation and I bought several spares, but so far the replacement has lasted well. I also use copper never seize on the bolts and glow plug which makes removal a breeze. All my systems run on solar power with a 100W solar panel charging a bunch of recycled car batteries, the system will start any time of day or night and can go 24 hours a day without losing charge, even in winter with short days.
Cheers.
Most fuel pumps do better pushing fuel than sucking it out of a long line. You want the pump to last longer, have it as close to the tank as you can OR have it lower than the tank. It will also help with priming.
The asbestos in the gasket isn’t an issue unless they are flaking apart. Also never use a grinder or wire wheel to remove gasket material from housing. Gently Use a scraper to help remove. You can also dampen the gasket to reduce chances of making asbestos airborne.
I worked with asbestos periodically my whole career.
good tips, thanks!
The asbestos gaskets are definitely an issue since the cabin air is flowing right around the side of the aluminum burner and gasket which is always flaking at the edges and asbestos contaminated air can get distributed into the cabin air.
So if you buy a chinese knock off diesel heater, replace the gaskets for gods sake...
I was a central heating engineer, and part of the job was to check in people's lofts for white asbestos if the boiler (furnace) flue ran through the loft. Once I lifted the loft access panel to discover the whole loft was at least 6" deep in fluffy white asbestos. I quickly held my breath, gently closed the loft access, got down my step ladder and told the householder what I had seen, what they need to do and quickly left the house. I don't think these gaskets here pose a problem but anyway when I service mine I will dismantle this heater outside in the open air.
A crucial step you left out, you must check the exhaust gas for carbon monoxide levels after adjusting. If it's too weak or rich the figures will sky rocket and quickly become a health hazard, and with a window open or leaks in to the living area present a serious problem. Even a cheap Ebay monoxide tester (those yellow ones for $25) will do the job, just hold it a foot or so away from the exhaust so it does not melt on a calm day and take several readings at low medium and high output power. You need to aim for 20 to 50ppm at all power levels (20 at low and 50 at high). I have found 1.6@1680/5.0@4500 the sweet spot for 0 to 2500ft ft alt, 1.4@1680/4.5@4500 for 2500 to 5000ft alt, and 1.3@1680/4.0@4500 for 5000 to 7500ft alt. 25 to 50ppm carbon monoxide is the key indicator for correct combustion/fuel to air ratio. Not had any sooting for years at those settings using good quality fuel on any of my 5's. Running a 50/50 mix of diesel and kerosene is an even better option in cold winter months for clean burns. Some great info for many in your video by the way!!
That is a good point! I knew I forgot to mention something. Out of curiosity if you are running too lean how high do the CO numbers get? I change elevation all the time so constantly re-tuning the heater isn't exactly practical, but I think for a static installation this is a great tip to get the most out of your heater while minimizing CO exposure.
@@dustyodyssey There seems to be a sweet spot window of about .3hz/.4hz where everything runs fine (about .15hz/.2hz either side of correct). So if your target was 1680@1.6hz then you would get to 1.5hz perhaps 1.4hz and not affect the ppm (or at most 10ppm) then when you drop to 1.3hz it will suddenly rocket to several hundred ppm (and much higher at times!). Same goes for increasing, 1.7hz and 1.8hz would usually be ok (just), but at 1.9hz and a sudden rapid ppm increase. It can vary a little, sometimes the sharp rise could happen on the second step above or below, so it can vary on temperature (air density) and other factors including the altitude. Fuel type and mixing fuels also affects fuel/rpm ratio and ppm, but that's a whole different topic! (for example one of mine has run at 1.2@1680 on 80%kero/20%diesel@15ppm 1000ft which is super low and clean!)
So - isn't the risk of excess CO _higher_ when you run too _rich_ (not enough oxygen), versus too lean?
I always understood that too-lean virtually eliminates CO output - but at the expense of heat produced. I.e. prioritising 'safety' over efficiency/warmth per unit of diesel consumed.
Running lean causes high CO i experimented with lots of settings and i now have 20-30ppm across the board and never needed cleaning for 4 years.
@@jamie-hb8gy That's interesting, in engines running lean results in a drop of CO because you have excess oxygen to react with the fuel. That's interesting that it doesn't work that way in diesel heaters.
I bought a Vevor 5kw off Amazon shortly before you released this video. The model is XMZ-D2. There’s some possible differences you might want to be aware of:
1. Your smelly rubber gasket no longer smells. I took a flame to it to see if I could tell if it’s silicone or not, I’m not sure, but it didn’t emit black smoke. Smelled a bit worse but not terrible. Did they change it to silicone? Inconclusive.
2. The internal vibration dampers are now green on the side facing the components of the heater and are made of two different materials. Or at least two different color materials, green and white. Did they add flame proof liner to the pads? I have no idea, but it looks different than yours.
3. The color of the unit is orange and black, not grey.
Fuel line is still green, positive voltage wire looks to be about 14 gauge.
Fuel pump model is CNMZ-23, is that the same as yours?
I find it odd they’d send you a lesser model than one they sell already. Or maybe this is all just smoke and mirrors and they’re exactly the same. I’ll install it in a week and can provide feedback.
Interesting! Maybe they have made some improvements then. Good luck!
Where’s your feedback?
How does this work?
I am loving this video in so many ways. Love how you're not holding back on the honest review. The info is on point and the alternative options are well researched. Great work Max!!!
6:58 How should the exhaust gases get inside when you proper install the exhaust piping? Usually there ist sitting the exhaust tube with a clamp on I guess? Am I wrong?
I agree with others - you're a great teacher! Yes, I love your outdoor adventures. And I also love learning about things I'd always imagined would be out of reach for me. Thank you!
Great tutorial for using these cheap Chinese diesel heaters 👍.
I bought a Vevor all in one, just like your unbranded one, and it worked brilliantly straight out of the box, I guess I got lucky 😅
Informative video. Prior to watching it, I ordered and installed a 2K Vevor with Bluetooth, Smart and Level mode and timer. It was only $90 with tax and shipping. I upgraded the fuel line and used a turret. I mounted the fuel tank above the pump and heater so there's no "pulling" by the pump which I often see mentioned. Prior to starting, I pulled the intake line from the pump and fuel filled the line in less than a minute. I didn't need to prime and it started within a couple minutes just by turning it on. I didn't notice any odd smells or smoke from the exhaust. My only complaint so far is the manual, but between Google and various TH-cam all my questions have been answered.
Thank you for that excellent and honest video! I don't even plan to install a diesel heater in my van but I was sticked to my screen for all the video!
There are lots of second-rate videos on youtube about these heaters. As a retired oil fired boiler engineer I think this video is as far above the rest as Everest is above sea level. Thank you so much for explaining all the things the others don't bother with such as the pump Hz and max / min fan speeds. Also the observations about replacing rubber with silicone to get rid of smells. I will now go and give my diesel heater a good seeing-to :)
Thanks for sharing your review and thoughts on these types of heaters,I use 2 to warm my rv and they work very well.i run pump diesle and also use an internal filter in my fuel tank, plus an external filter just to be extra sure I'm running clean diesle in my heaters.
Well done video. These things remind me of nearly every tool from Harbor Freight; it’s fine “if” you do this & that! Great deep dive into the guts of these little machines. Cheers and safe travels.
Cheers!
Awesome! You have so much experience and explain all the nuances and variables that so many videos leave out... And leave you scratching your head. Thanks for this highly informative and useful video. I've subscribed. You're a cool dude. I wonder how you're making money on the road. That's the only tiny detail I haven't figured out. Otherwise I'd be out there tomorrow morning.! 😊
Info from 16:14ish is gold!
had my all in one for 3 years .. no issues at all ..tho i have made some changes and dismantled it and bought a bigger tank ..ive also mounted pump outside ... i use it every weekend so im pleased with it ... great video
I don't want or need one but it's a dusty odyssey video so I'm watching 🫡
I put a small filter on the intake for dust as well as a 3 inch one for the unit, my carpentry van is a dust bin.
Hi Gary from the UK here grate video very interesting and informative keep them coming
Very well explained. I've been waiting for the "Pinto moment" where a wildly popular thing is suddenly discovered to have a huge flaw and that isn't happening with these heaters. The few issues some people have are seemingly rather easily and cheaply correctable. I've already decided to use one of these as my primary heat source for my travel trailer when the money becomes available and I'm wondering if the output could be tied in to the existing duct system? I can't see why not but it would be nice to hear if someone else has done this.
Editing to add: If you use one of those intake air filters, buy a genuine "K&N" brand filter. These were originally designed for motorcycles and in that field (and among car tuners too) it's well known that the knock-offs are much more restrictive as well as being less efficient at filtering. Positively worth the extra cost for K&N filters.
Based on what I've seen on the forums others have hooked these up to their existing ducting systems with a little creativity. Depending on how big your travel trailer is and how cold it's going to be where you're going you may find that you want more heat though.
And I did look at K&N but decided that a dry filter sounded easier to maintain, also I wasn't sure if I would be smelling the filter oil all the time? We'll see how this one works though, definitely an experiment.
@@dustyodyssey Thanks for the reply. K&N's can be ran 'dry', their recommended oiling enhances filtration at a slight cost of airflow but they're still flowing more air than the off-brands do. Not sure about any smell of the oil, my experience is as a motorcycle (and car) mechanic. As long as your filter is working OK use it, but when the paper element deteriorates replace it with a K&N for max airflow and lowest restriction.
I'm semi-retired in the upstate of SC, so no bad cold weather here and even a 4K setting on a Mr buddy heater is toasty-warm but expensive to run compared to what I've heard about these diesel heaters, and I'm replacing all the 30 year old equipment as well as getting set up for solar eventually to minimize my living costs. I'm also going to be doing a semi-conversion on my equally old ex-work van for short term occupancy and small job work where one of these heaters will be exactly what I need.
These heaters really are the dog's bollox!
I remember paying over £2500GBP to get my Eberspächer
Thanks for your review and walkthrough about what to consider when setting up a diesel heater. I'm getting ready to set one up in my Mercedes T2 camper van. In your opinion, would there be any disadvantage to just setting up the entire unit out side, but under, my van? I've got loads of space to work with under the van and I could even conformal coat any PCBs that need it and apply poly to other sensitive connections. I'd prefer this solution because the van was converted 30 years ago to an RV and so there aren't really many optimate spots to mount it directly to the bare metal floor but I do have an area that would accommodate a vent hole to inlet the heat into the van. Either way - cheers and thanks for maintaining your integrity with the reviews, I think it'll serve you well as your channel continues to grow!
As I am sure you are aware, these units are not exactly waterproof. Surely it's possible, but frankly I don't have any experience with what could go wrong. I would recommend having two vents, one for the heated air and one for return air. If the "cabin" air inlet is outside not only is your heater going to be a lot less efficient, but you also run the risk of pulling exhaust gasses into your living space.
Very informative. Excellent video as always.
wow u seem like the god of diesel heaters lots of good information for sure and unbiased input, i was wondering if you knew what kind of diesel heater or what size i should get for a 12 by 40 ft shop with 18ft high ceilings
Depends a lot on climate, insulation and expectations, but I would think you'll need a lot of power to heat a space that big. I would recommend a 5kw or a "real" 8kw if you can find one
@dustyodyssey there's insulation and it's in Canada I think I'll need to get 2 or more
Very well spoken, and informative.
Basically buy the heater, toss everything away except the core and build from there.
I bought the Vevor Bluetooth model and I love the Thermostat mode.
I put the APP on my phone when I bought the unit, but now you can't get the app. So I cant add it to my tablet or wifes phone ???
It's available but wont load for some reason.
That allan screw at the end looked like it was cross threaded.
That was an excellent instruction for these heaters - thanks.
It very much was, like that from the factory 🙄
12:30 you can make the exhaust airtight by using exhaust mounting paste.
Always a satisfying feeling when you take something apart and give it a good clean... feels fresh and new again.
So true!
Vevor has apparently made them better. At least mine which now is orange works great and has none of the mentioned issues
What is your power source if you don't mind me asking?
Mine also seems to work, it's noisy but I only tested it briefly and didn't soundproof it yet.
@@RikkerdHZ this guy won't answer me. Will you tell me your power source?
@ Haha sure! I hard-wired the heater to a 12v 100Ah Litime LFP battery. There’s an in-line fuse on the positive wire from the diesel heater, it was already there when I bought it.
@@RikkerdHZ ok thanks. I am using a portable powerbank. It works for some but not others -oddly enough.
At 22:29, you run the heater with it laying on its side.. Is that okay long term?
yup, totally fine as long as the fuel inlet is on the top side
I have one heater with the soft green fuel line and one with the hard nylon. Both work fine.
Reposted son others can see: I have the Vevor DIY version and must have gotten lucky, it's been awesome for 2 winters plus. Right out of the box with no adjustments, although my model is supposed to be self altitude sensitive.. My tanks are mounted outside (no fuel smells or spillage risks), my pump is also outside. Everything is protected and my advantage is my 5th wheel is permanently boondocked (no water or electric, I filter rain water and have a generator). Being permanent, I don't have the worries of mobility like your van.
As for power, mine runs directly off of 2 Type 27 Marine/RV lead acid batteries that recharge from a solar panel (again I am permanently parked). I think it is imperative these are not run by direct AC to 12VDC power in case you experience a sudden power outage. When yours smoked when unplugged is why I think this is important.
Also, turning these off by power interruption does stress the logic board with all that heat remaining inside the housing withoit the blower cooling it down with a proper shut off.
I think then reason I also got lucky was I had to ditch all the hoses that came in my kit (green line) and went with nylon as you speak of (watched a lot of videos). Wasn't a choice since my tank is about 4 feet away from the heater itself. Plus the soft line expands and contracts which is counter productive to the pump.
Also, since I have such a long run of fuel line, I had to source better clamps. In a nutshell, buy cheap, but ditch the fuel line, fuel filter, and clamps. Upgrade those minimally.
Another thing I "lucked out" on is the rubber gasket wouldn't work for my application, so it was inadherently omitted during my install. You were the first to mention the rubber gasket being junk and the wrong material to be safe.
So, by a lot of luck based on my install, I removed most of the weak points by default.
Only thing I disagree with is where to mount the fuel pump. I believe the proper location is to be closest to the fuel tank. Those pumps can push fuel more than they can draw. Just like a car's fuel pump. There is a reason they are mounted in the fuel tanks and not at the engine. Except older cars with mechanical pumps on the engine. Mine has no problem pushing fuel up 4-5 feet to my heater.
The little vibration gaskets you showed inside the housing is interesting. New news to me and I will replace them if/when I ever have to service this heater. But for now, I do not get any smells at all. Fingers crossed that remains unchanged. If I do, that'll be the first thing I check, so thank you.
All-in-all you have had the best review and guidance by far for ideas, explanation, thoroughness.
You were spot on to start your video with safety first suggesting a monitor. This can be a matter of life and death. So absolute kudos for mentioning that.
Great video and thank you.
Hi I was filling the fuel line with a syringe to prime it and now I’ve got fuel coming out of the air filter hose?? Wondering if you could help please. Thanks
I like the way they leave final development to the customer 🤔👍🏻🇬🇧
You are running this off a 30A 12V power supply you happened to have on hand. These heaters usually have a 12V 40W rating printed on the back, which is almost one tenth the power you are using. I’m just curious whether I can dig a much smaller one out of my box of junk power supplies. It would be interesting to see the actual current draw during the start when powering the glow plug, then during the run at various fuel feed rates and then powering the glow plug for the shut-down cleaning cycle. Your video is very detailed. Good information.
Start up usually maxes out at around 10A on my meter. A 15A supply should work
Yes. I see that those manufacturers who provide AC/DC power supplies with their heaters include 10A. It seems to me that rating their heaters 40W (which appears to be the continuous current draw after start up) that really draw 120W at startup isn’t a good way to describe their product although I can’t say that the heaters wont start with a lower current supplied but take longer for the glow plug to come to temp. I’m going to have to do some testing when I get my heater. (I have bigger power supplies but would rather use the smallest I can get away with. It looks like using too small a power supply can coke up the unit and the glow plug and combustion chamber will have to be cleaned or replaced.) Thanks for your reply.
On the first start-up with my heater, I bumped the power plug(which was loose) and the heater shut down instantly from power loss......I heard a dull/muffled 'boom' and I thought I blew it up. I just waited about 45 minutes to let it cool, and it started right up and has been running on high with no issues.
Thank you. This was a great video. I have a much better idea on how these work. You make great videos.
hehe, i have been driving a diesel for the past 12 years, but completely forgot that it is entirely possible to combust diesel without pressure. after your explanation at ~ 5:30 i was very confused for a few minutes :D i was expecting so see pretty much a small engine once you took that thing apart
32:00 The burning plastic is the heater itself inside the case burning the case. There is normally a flow of air preventing the plastic case from getting how and melting. 😆
What is that right fuel line called? And also the bigger black one? Do you have amazon links to these parts? I am very much in need of a good fuel line due to air bubbles in this current one...
It's usually referred to as a nylon fuel line. I have not bought this before, but I think this looks like a decent quality option. www.amazon.com/Fuel-Filter-Hose-Clip-Pipe/dp/B0BT754L8J/
Hey man,i have the same issue with the later tuneable ecu as it allows the Hz to go down lower than stored but in my case i've found it ignores any Hz lower than set,you are correct about the older ecu not having this bug.
Very good! 👍 Thank you 😊 Greetings from Germany
so you can use them on your side as long as the fuel intake is facing up?
yup!
Man I live in a van and mine work's great and I have it in the van with me and no problems just had to cut 2holes in my floor
This is an excellent overview- thank you!!
Although many will disagree, the fuel pump mounted in a vertical position will increase its longevity with complete lubrication of the pulsating cylinder, also the rubber glow plug seal needs to be properly installed or you will get exhaust in the cabin area. For the body intake you can adapt a shop vac filter with flex tubing to avoid dust and debris on the heat exchanger.
Great video have you played with the advanced settings? I read there are advanced settings for higher altitude. We live at 5k and are often higher. Never-ending you covered it! Awesome summary!
Many thanks for this video....lots of good information.
I hear people use these for roof top tents, I have not because I feel that even if I have the unit outside it would still smell my tent up with diesel smell. Even if it is safe, I don't like the smell of diesel especially when I am trying to sleep. Do you think Kerosene would be less stinky and I am I correnct in thinking I will smell the diesel fuel in my roof top tent? Cheers, Great information by the way.
I have not run kero, so I couldn't tell you, but I would assume it's not all that different from diesel. If I have my windows open for cooking and the wind blows a certain way I do definitely get a slight smell inside, but most of the time there is no smell, but I can imagine in a tent you may smell it from time to time, but I wouldn't think it would be too bad. Cheers!
@@dustyodyssey Thank you
The instruction booklet to my Eberspacher heater states to use diesel/kerosene mix in sub zero temperatures it says to use neat kerosene at -25*c and below, hop this is of some help.
Good presentation. Well done!
Do you get any smell on startup only?? Mine gets combustion in the heated air for a second. Then runs clean . Is it back puffing through the air hole and out the glow plug grommet/wires?? During pre purge on ignition Any one!
How do you maintain a lean mix. From stock setting??
Hi, So, you can run these mounted on its side like in your video. Correct ??. thanks ( UK)
yes, just make sure the fuel inlet is on top
@@dustyodyssey cheers matey.
Folks are continually saying that you get what you pay for , From my own experience of thses heaters is that they worth double what they cost. I would say is that fitting these heaters should not be done by arm chair experts.. When fitted correctly they are very efficient safe and long lasting.
don't remember hearing you say but, what about the power consumption on a 12v battery? how long can it run on a full charge?
Oh, good question. At 12V it uses 10A on startup, ~1.1A on low, and ~3.5A on high. So a 100AH battery will have you good for at least 30 hours.
@@dustyodyssey my question for my off grid shack I need to heat. I am in desert wood way too expensive to buy.
What is ur opinion, I changed glow plug,put it back on ,started it up worked for aweek than the fault code came up 0 8 ,when I start it up goes for 10 min with glow plug symbol than dissappear,now it blows cool air
e08 is usually an issue with fueling or a clogged (sooted) combustion chamber. Is this a new setup or has it been sitting for a while? can you check that the lines are primed and the pump is pumping?
It is about 18 months, old been sitting over summer, I hear pump working,but on the outlet will there be just a dribble of diesel or squirt like
@@ernestchapman898 you may just have old fuel in the lines then. Hard to say
I installed a new unit and still giving me a code 8 same as I had with the old unit ,have any ideas?
i have that exact heater vevor it lasted 1.5 years and now the glow plug is bad. it doesnt get hot enough to start i think as i t just smokes.
that gasket also only lasted a year and dried and cracked
i take my vevor heater anywhere from 2000 to 10000 never noticed a problem
i run the shit fuel line for the last 1.5 years no problem
Very interesting, thanks.
I'm surprised you took the time to disassemble the heater unit but missed out mentioning the all-important atomiser screen.
The portable one is perfect for inside vans.
i have the Hcalorie heater as well. purs like a kitten. i use automobile diesel fuel. runs clean.
Really solid!
Just bought a brand new diesel heater. Installed the exhaust outside. Put some exhaust paist on the exhaust. Every time I turn it on I get a headache. I have carbon monoxide alarm but does not go off. Anyone got any ideas what’s wrong. I have used just under a tank of diesel so far
Has anyone tested the LF Bros heater on Amazon? Costs a little more but not sure if it's any better
Important to note that the moisture in the exhaust pipe comes condensation of the water within the exhaust gas, since burning hydrocarbon fuels like diesel, gasoline or gas creates carbon dioxide and water. When the by cold outdoor air cooled surface of the pipe extracts heat from the exhaust gas, the water will condensate there.
Great video very informative
Is everything a "throw away and upgrade" item on these? 😆 I guess the metal body is ok to keep? (Assuming it's been cleanly molded. 😆)
If you cut and splice the wires, are you really reducing resistance or increasing current capacity? Are you making a soldered connection or some sort of crimp? Overall, great review of these products. Normally, reviewers just rave about them and never highlight the flaws.
Excellent, thorough review. I would recommend watching Joshua De Lisle's TH-cam channel for complimentary information. And yes, the outright deception and false advertising that Amazon permits vendors of these heaters to get away with is appalling. Buyer beware.
On another note, would you happen to have a link to the power supply that you used? I currently run my via a Jackery 1000 Explorer, but it's a big ask of the little cigarette lighter outlet to give me nearly 10 amps for several minutes. Cheers!
This is what I use for a "grid" power supply: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VWV5YCH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks! @@dustyodyssey
Also forgot, I added 2 fuel shut off valves. One before the pump and one after in case I need to seevice/replace the pump. This keeps the fuel spillage to a minimum for anything I need to do in the future. Also allows me to keep fuel in the line when the camper isn't be used, thus fuel can't seep back down into the tank requiring me to prime it each time. Since my heater and tank is 4-5 feet away from the heater.
What brand of diesel heater do you have? I've watched too many videos with these cheap heaters and their issues. Lol I looked into the main brand and yes very expensive but there has to be better options. I really want a mini wood stove but those aren't cheap either. Lol very good video, Dusty! I had to share it with another van lifer!
I bought mine (unbranded) from an ebay seller called "echamptrading2017" haha. It actually looks like they are one of the few sellers that are still shipping out the good fuel line, and you can get the "advanced remote" which is tunable. But, with all of this stuff you're kind of taking a gamble that the quality will be there.
@@dustyodyssey yeah, I am leaning more towards the higher priced one.
7:05 it's not a gasket but a heat protector...
Ow, asbestos in gaskets is bs cause it's banned in a whole lot of countries.
I agree that running the heater full blast is not necessary to prevent carbon buildup. Mine has been used 99% on the lowest setting for 3 years with no carbon buildup.
my lcd screen was blacked out when i got home today, its 2 years old, doing its second winter now... does anyone know what the problem is and if i buy a new controller, will that fix the problem ?.
That's weird, the LCD backlight can "fade" over time if they are left powered on all the time. Might be worth turning off the lights and checking if it's not just super dim. Next thing of course would be to check the basics, does it turn on when you press the button? Make sure you have power, the controller is plugged in, etc. If you do need a new controller I would buy one that is paired with a motherboard since your unit is so old. A new bare controller (LCD) may work, but there's a good chance it won't be compatible with the old motherboard.
@@dustyodyssey wow thanks for the reply !
so its totally dead, the heater wont run being the controller is totally dead.
all fues's are fine, i cant seem to find anything disconnected on the positive or negative lines.
just no reponse.
if i buy a new one, ill need to buy it with the motherborad that goes in the diesel heater itself ?
thanks heaps for the reply.
@@jaaayg2791 Might be worth checking your power supply with a multimeter, and unplugging the heater for a bit to see if it will reset. But assuming you have good clean power and it’s still not lighting up I would guess it’s an issue with the motherboard or controller so yes, replacing both with a matching set would be my recommendation.
@@dustyodyssey thanks for the reply ! hopefully its not to hard to replace the motherboard too. thanks again
Greetings. Kt is dare 2 find an honest review with donated products. I am thinking they liked that, however it is a smart way 2 demo products and improve. Thx EXCUSE MY ERRORS. 1 eye not good with typing.
👍🏽 🇬🇧 January 2024
What a fookin' excellent video, on a subject that's been done to death, no less!
Plus - bonus - he's a James McAvoy lookalike!
forgot one very important thing, the proper way to mount the fuel pump, it has to be at a certain angle or it is bad for them
Search Bureck Chinese Diesel heater thermostat. I have one. They work great.
Have you see the guy running his without the fuel pump. He just used a IV drip with a metering device.
I did see that. Pretty fascinating. I'd love to see if it would run like that long term
I was just about to buy the Vevor today and happened to catch this video. Perhaps a bullet dodged!
"I've never done this before, let me demonstrate as if I'm some sort of expert."
2:00 Look at all of the dead skins cells clumped in that device! 😐 They need to go some where, why not collect in the heater?
That is just regular dirt/dust from driving down a bunch of dirt roads. My heater is mounted by the back hatch which leaks a little bit 😅
@@dustyodyssey 😜😁
do you know of any cheap diesel heater horror stories e.g burns down the whole van or kills the inhabitants etc...
In 2019 a couple in the UK died on their boat from CO poisoning.
great vid......gross overreaction on the asbestos thing
Another “expert” 😂, the “air filter” on the end of the air intake is there to balance the unit and is very important.
Also there is s cheep motor and a better motor black is good silver one is pressed and cheep doesn't last long
Intake silencer? It's a balancer .
All in all you know as much as a person would by reading the manual or watching a few videos like this one that you made I am shocked that you got a company to ship you a couple of these units based on you knowledge.
Yeah, specifically the Airtronic install manual is pretty comprehensive. And yeah, it's amazing how easy it is to get one of these units for free.
No way its asbestos how would that seal since its a hard mineral
Almost certainly does contain asbestos, just google “asbestos gasket,” extremely common
Forget about these paper gasgets buy high temperature silocone gasgets works better and use the metal exhaust as air intake as well for safety reasons because the black flexible stuff starts to break down eventually and if it's inside you may get blow back and carbon monoxide poisoning. 😊
Well there is asbestos rope gasket we used a lot of asbestos gasket in aircraft engines. But this is just high temperature paper and burns after a while you'll see when the burn chamber is opened after a few weeks and wouldn't do on aircraft engines. 😊
The Vevor I just got has a new non-adjustable controller. So, no lean burn is possible. Absolutely do not buy the three button controller.
Chinese diesel heaters are the same
The complaint about the all in one exaust is certainly not valid as it exactly the same as every other unit. I really have no idea how he makes the claim.
There are numerous videos from numerous content creators, all saying the same thing.
If you get an all in one unit that never has any issues, it would be the exception, not the rule.
@@this-is-slammin-549 The exaust is piped out exactly the same in both styles. What am I missing?
@xwhite2020 the joint most likely to leak is where the exhaust pipe joints to the unit, this joint is outside when a heater is fitted to the van floor but with the all in one that joint is inside where you are 👍
@@Dirt-Diggler The outlets/spigots are identicle.They are literally the same part.
in the van by the river lol
They don‘t cheap out - they have no idea and there is no regulation. I wish there would be a middle way between german quality and chinese prices
i bought the first one and now i found out its useless
Was it faulty?
@MaritimeUnprepared no I watched the video and it says it's low quality
@@stendanb2342 the vevor one is goog👍
max did your dad help you ? :D
Πάρα πολύ καλός και γνώστης εις βάθος.
A lot of criticism. Don't look for lice next time for comparison show an identical "Mate in USA" product in the same quality and price level. OK?
FYI I think the criticism is well deserved. Compared to what was selling just 3 years ago for the same (or less) money, the products that were sent to me are very poor quality. Unfortunately, nothing like this is made in the US, and the name brand options are easily $1200+