11:56 Here in Finland you cant modify your car tank. If you do so your car then can fail the "Katsastus" ~ MOT that is done yearly here for older cars. You can modify your sender unit or pipes/hose like in the feeding neck.
@@zolobolo3150 Well top side of most tanks is "fuel pickup unit" that houses pump, fuel measure unit and lines out(and in). Today those are made most likely some plastic that is harder then the tank and so they maintain the same shape if the temp is hot or gold and if hit the tank with ground and the tank moves to not get leak the pickup unit still keeps its shape. so we drill on it and shorten the pickup tube so if you bottom up the tank it don't poke hole true it + that your heater cant run you out of the fuel...
The exhaust tip should be nearer the edge of the floorpan, poking out a just little ideally. With it like you have installed it exhaust gases will rise and collect in the upper recesses of the floorpan when parked, potentially permeating if able (e.g. something like a factory wiring boot is not gas tight). Conversions tend to have even more pass throughs of course, and if any of that exhaust gas gets back inside it’ll stink.
This advice is 100% correct - it doesn't matter who 'signs off' on it - even corporations can be dumb. The exhaust gases will by definition rise & well under the vehicle - & only a breeze will have any chance of actually taking it away from the vehicle.
@@ArifGhostwriter you know many exhaust pipes on actual vehicles terminate under the van itself. So my Mercedes sprinter exhaust terminates half way down the van in the centre. What about that then.
@@urbanarkoverland Terminating halfway down, sure - but not _underneath_ the vehicle - an engine exhaust tip not reaching the edge of the vehicle would be illegal. Just look at how the heater exhaust terminates on any caravan or motorhome - they would never terminate underneath the floor pan. You're not arguing against me - you're arguing against physics! Hot gasses will rise first. Your installation would only be okay if the vehicle is moving the entire time. If parked, not so good - vehicles are simply not designed to be upwardly gas/air-proof.
standard syringes are perfect to prefill diesel fuel lines, saves a lot of time getting the heater running first time (and prevents bubbles that caused me some headache when i installed my first.
There’s a Arrow on the sender unit and on the tank that have to line up with each other . If you don’t your sender gauge won’t work properly as there’s a lump on the in side of the take witch stops the gauge from working properly
Prime the fuel lines slightly with the prime feature then you will probably only get error 13 once or twice or maybe not at all. Just be careful to not over prime as you will never get rid of all the air bubbles in the fuel line and will over prime it trying to get rid of the said bubbles, in this instance you will get a big cloud of unburnt fuel coming out of the exhaust pipe at start up.
Hi good vid as always but just noticed there isn't a hole in eghaust silence I have same set up in my crafter and I had to drill a hole in mine to drain condensation
I understand almost all silencers are stainless steel nowadays & can cope with a puddle of condensation though if you put it somewhere daft like in direct spray from a wheel it may be a different story.
Thank you for this video. I hope my Ford Transit has a sender tool to allow me to get my fuel sender unit in there properly. Using the auxiliary port is not advisable according to the Velit Gasoline (Petrol) heater guide, using the included fuel sender unit and hardware IS recommended - highly due to performance issues. I think people shy away from your setup as it looks daunting to undertake. But with videos like these it absolutely helps instill confidence.
@@urbanarkoverland I thought about that sir, but isn’t there an issue with not being able to get the (nut) hardware beneath the surface of the tank? Do we not need a large hole 🕳️ or access panel to make that happen?
@@mikefranks4528 please watch that section again. There is a crafty little washer that you angle. It drops in and then acts as a back washer. 16mm hole. And no need to access from behind 👍🏻
Fantastic vlog, well presented and should be a benchmark for anyone fitting a diesel heater. I run a "suitcase" type diesel heater, which is best for my application and power it from my Jackery (10amp), and it runs it perfectly 👌.
Does the heater really use more than 10 amps for startup? I'm looking for a 110v to 12 volt houe adapter, and not sure if I should get a 10 amp or 15 amp adapter. The 15 amp are much more expensive and common.
The reason the display cable is not longer is because these heaters are used in many many different types of vehicle and the majority can use the standard cable. I requested the extensions so we can add modems under the drivers seat in a VW transporter without needing to install it by the display. For installations where you want the display at the rear of the van there is a 7m long display cable that replaces the original display cable.
Hi thank you for posting learnt a lot from your video.The outlet hose where the hot air enters the cabin,on mine it’s pushed inside the heater outlet should it be connected to the outside like yours and not pushed inside the heater.
Yes. Definitely. And do not use a jubilee clip. I’m surprised you haven’t had an issue so far. If it’s crushed it down a bit. See if you have enough play to cut 10mm off and get back to fresh pipe 👍🏻
Thanks for getting back to me,yes I’m getting a temperture sensor error 12 and error 13 the unit powers off after about 12 minutes.The hose isn’t long it pretty much goes into a bend straight away on the outlet as I have it under my drivers seat.Could it be what’s causing it is the hose pushed into the outlet it might cause the air to be restricted coming out.Yes I won’t use the jubilee clip to connect it to it thanks.
Do you must purge any air out of the fuel lines after you reconnect them? I know diesel pumps don't like to run dry and i had a hard time starting the engine after a fuel filter change.
Great video and very informative. . Does the end of the exhaust have to be out from under the vehicle as in should it stick out the side of the vehicle to prevent fumes building up under the van. Thanks.
@ if you can. If you want. Then yes. But the position I chose is perfectly acceptable. It’s where autoterm advise. And it’s where it is located on factory California and ocean vans. 👍🏻
I've got a heater I just bench tested yesterday. Wires up = glow plug down. I think the advice should be to make sure of glow plug orientation rather than wire orientation as those can be changed
Are you sure it's safe to have the exhaust exit under the middle of the van instead of the side? I'm in the process of fitting a heater and I'm slightly worried about it but really don't feel like ordering a longer exhaust pipe and wait for it to arrive
Great video iv been thinking about using this location to install my heater, Do you have a video to show the noise from the heater running as its mounted internally? thanks
Hello, can you fit the diesel heater outside of the van? (on the vw t25 you got some space outside under the passenger front or in the engine bay? and what about the off roading, where would you fit the air intake so it doesn't fill up with water while driving?
So. You can fit outside on any van. The heating air intake goes back into the van bathe combustion air intake is the same. Just make sure it isn’t running when offriading. Check out my recent videos. In the quarry and first episode of Xmas roadshow. Do some big water splashes. No problems.
I have an Autoterm and it worked great for about 2 months. Then it started throwing error code 13, shortly after that the heater filled my entire sprinter van with exhaust fumes while my dog was inside, thankfully we came back in time to open the door and let her out. Still working on getting the smell of diesel exhaust out of our interior.
Would you fit one on a fiat Ducato Lads and what kind of lead times we looking at. I would travel from Tamworth, Staffordshire. Roughly about an hrs drive. Great video. 👍
Exhaust should go to outside of van Most campers have vents through floor.. gas drop out vents. Allowing exhaust to come out in centre of van as shown here will cause hot poisonous exhaust fumes to build up under van and rise though these vents..
You are wrong this is how VW fit the factory ones, and this is also the way the manufacturer recommends fitting. The small cut out in the undertray is for this purpose. Thanks for your input though, but definitely incorrect information.
Outstanding video! Quick question…. Is there any clamp or anything that holds the heat shield sleeve in place on the exhaust pipe? It’s probably not zip tied, but I don’t see any other clamp in the kit. I didn’t see you use anything either. Thanks!! Cheers!
Jackery 100% runs this. I have the Jackery 500. Most draw I've seen is 100w, about 8amps. Been fitted for over 2 years with 100's of run hours. Mine is also a 5kW.
@@urbanarkoverland it's a pump, a fan and a glow plug. The kW output doesn't determine the electrical power draw. Just had a look on Planar's website and doesn't specify a power draw. Mine pulls 8A on start up and about 800mA on tick over.
@@SuperGeemer I wasn’t stating the kw as a comparison. I was stating it as direct info that planar do not make a 5kw. I had a jackery. And this diesel heater. And I assure you. It did not run it. I thought my heater was playing up. Plugged into goal zero. And away it went
On the silent pump,once all the air is out of tge fuel system you will not be able to hear the pump inside the vehicle as long as you install the pipework so it doesn’t rattle against the body.
Excellent thanks for your input Owen. The quiet pump is a game changer I must say. In the Chinese diesel heaters you can hear them across the field ha ha
Hi mate. No not really. You can of course. But shouldn’t be routing it anywhere that it potentially needs it. So…. Sure go ahead. But not necessary. Your vehicle fuel line isn’t 👍🏻
That mounting bracket looks like it's only tack welded in three places. Surely the gap between the two parts should be sealed to prevent exhaust ingress?
If you hold the 3 dots down on the controller you can start and stop it without having to scroll through the options. Your pump didn't sound very well primed as it shouldn't have that metallic sounding click and shouldn't be heard inside the van. Good video though 👌.
Great video...just wondered what are your thoughts on the pump wiring connector being outside the vehicle, I assume its not waterproof, will it not go rusty?
Hi, really informative vid, one question though, have you experience of living with an internal and externally installed heater?, if so, is it louder when installed inside compared to outside?.
A D2 heater will install into that space onto a single flat rib with no issues (not using the place) it also has a thick gasket that seals everything so ne need for sealant. It's lot less drilling big holes and IMO weaking the floor. I can only see this being useful like you said if you have a ply floor or something to keep things away from the hot exhaust but on a T5 and T6 under the seat its not needed at all. Not saying what you did was wrong its not just letting you and other know its doable without the massive plate / hole in the floor not to mention a decent metal hole saw that size for a one time use is not cheap. I have installed around 20 now without the plates. I did use a plate for a Merc build but drilled a lot of small holes rather than use a hole saw again just down to costs of a one time use tool.
You can and I have installed the heater exactly the same as the d2. With a few small holes using the gasket as a template. But please don’t assume the floor to be ‘weakened’. A. It’s sheet metal and therefore not structural. And b. This position is literally surrounded by chassis members on all 4 sides. It couldn’t be any stronger. Isn’t the d2 a lot more money?
@@urbanarkoverland yeah I was just letting people know that this was an option for the t5 and t6 and it could save them a bit of time not to mention if they sell the van and remove the heater it's a bit easier to pop in a few plugs than covering that size of hole. I believe anything within 30cm of a mounting point like the seat is considered structural? Yeah I totally agree. The D2 is since it's the original manufacturer of the diesel heater design. I have installed a few of the 1st gen? Chinese diesel heaters and they work but I can't say I was that impressed with them tbh and I noticed they seem to fail a lot with motor issues and random errors. I can't talk for the one you installed or any of the newer heaters tbh it looks like a nice heater though and I like the controller it's a huge upgrade from the older Chinese heaters.
@@campervansen-le-frith8517 the ribs in the floor line up and are the same width for the t5. Transit I can't say because I've never messed around with one but I have installed many in a t5 and t6 without the plate and fitting on a single rib in the floor
@urbanarkoverland it was just a fleeting glimpse in the video that I couldn't have a proper butchers at it. Not purchases yet, I did speak with Mark Stinger when there was the uber sexy discount going down, but it would have spent absolutely ages being sat in the garage - and my wife might have helped deterred me at that moment in time 🤐 It's the next item on the list though. Just need to finalise to where to locate it now that the Steelpod is in situ
Having my webasto diesel heater put in next month looking forward to it. I am having the hot outlet in the B pillars though like Oem not in the seat base
Hi, I just mounted the Autoterm 2D on my VW T6 van, it seems to work perfectly! One thing I've noticed is that I can hear when the drop of fuel goes in into the combustion chamber when I run it at low speed, with that I mean the noise of the combustion chamber is not linear anymore but it goes up (when it gest the drop) and down, I've been trying to listen to all videos the noise in background but I couldn't figure it out 😄, can you tell me?
Thanks for sharing this, following the Autoterm Air 2d notice, the distance between the fuel tank and the pump is 1 meters max if I see your install it seems that you have more than this no ?
Yes mate nice seen this in the instructions. Maybe that’s a preference. All I know is. Autoterm use my video in their own website as installation instructions so much be deemed as ok. 😀
Hi there Thanks for this brilliand video. About to install a Levana Pro in my VW T5.1 but i'm wodering did you put the undetray back in place after the install, and did you mod it if you did ?
fab video, helped me out a bunch. Quick q, how loud is the unit? on pretty low it stil sounds quite loud both inside and out even after initial start up has settled down and its not the pump ticking, its the fan/ whirring noise of the heater. I know these are meant to be pretty quiet once running but it sounds louder than my last chinese diesel heater. Any ideas? I nerded out and held my phone about a foot away from the unit running which gave a reading of about 88db.
Why the issue with wire direction, is this purely because its under the vehicle and to do with water and dirt ingress? I am installing one of these into a case for portability as a work unit rather than for use in a vehicle and cannot see any reason why the wires cannot be facing down in such an installation.
@@urbanarkoverland I might need to do some more research then, I have the triclicks and the manual suggests it can be mounted in any orientation, even vertically! The easy install in the case I have would be wires down, intake/exhaust out the side on the fixed panel side of the case which would put heat outlet at the front but I guess I could modify the case to flip the fixed/removable panels to be able to change the orientation of the heater inside.
@@urbanarkoverland I think I have got to the bottom of this and I think the instructions for my heater are wrong and should be like the instructions you refer too. I believe the orientation of the heater is an issue due to the Glow plug and fuel delivery needing to be side/top on the internal chamber but putting the heater on its side with wires down places them side/bottom.
Can these be installed on end, with the 3" air intake/hot air vent at the bottom/top and the combustion air intake/exhaust port/fuel line on the side ? I've been looking for the information for quite some time but haven't found a credible source saying you can or cannot mount it that way. Thanks for sharing your install process.
@@michaelg4931 oh. Well if the webasti says it can. Remember i am only speaking for this model. If it shows in the instructions I would say yes. NOT this unit though.
@@urbanarkoverland Trying to figure out how to get it on my overlander. I drive though allot of water. Heat mount inside but the intake would be full of water 😆
Hello, great video, thanks for the advice. One thing I’m hoping you can help with is where to wire the heater to. The manual says direct to the leisure battery, but Roamer recommend wiring it to the fuse box. Is it ok to wire it to the fuse box, and if so, how does this work with the existing in line fuse on the power cable?
The only reason autoterm would suggest going straight to leisure battery is that they want to avoid the possibility of you turning it off mid cycle. Say you killed the 12v supplies to work on something. Mine is currently wired to my fuse board. Either cut the inline fuse out or simply match it in the fuse board 👍🏻
wires facing up is not a good way to decide on orientation -- its possible on many of these to switch the wires to the other side of the case, and then you'll have the whole thing upside down. the fuel inlet pipe has to be "up" thats the best way to keep track
@@jotrutch haha ha. Ye. This is t the same. And thanks for not just being an ass and sticking your ya guns. Literally says in the instructions that that is how you decide orientation 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland these things can be the best accessory you ever buy, or a giant headache... Just wanna make sure people get it right. I rely on one of these every night, and followed some bad instructions early on when installing, that kept me perplexed for months, thinking "I did everything right!" when I didn't. This orientation stuff wasn't one of the pitfalls for me but anyone like me that walks into this with only general skills could get snagged on these kinds of things. Anyway your vid is pretty clear it's for a specific unit, just assumed the imitations were the same. Thanks for the content, I'm sure it will be helpful to many
@@jotrutch ye. Had a few messages. Why isn’t there a hole in the exhaust etc. and followed the letter of the law. Contacted autoterm and they said it’s not needed. Autoterm director emailed me and said it’s the best install video he has seen. Exactly how it should be done. So I’m proud of that. Hope you’re sorted now.
I have a 300L fuel tank on my live on boat and use red diesel which costs about a quid a litre and sometimes cheaper, used to be 50p only a few years ago 😞 I got around 200L right now and my is boat out the water (due to medical stuff i am going through ) so heating is already paid for and electric heating costs too much, can't wait to be back on the water though. When I was on the road the only options for diesel heaters were the real expensive ones at 700 to 1000 quid, I paid 50 quid for mine, yes a cheap chinese one and it is running now and am toasty warm though that does look like a good system TBH.
23:30 I guess the wiring is so long due to so many in RV's, if I had had one in my old Dodge 50 (Built in UK not a US Dodge vehicle, yes honest) 30ft motorhome I would have needed a long wiring loom like you got.
28:30 I have 400w solar feeding my leisure batteries, ok a bit crap during winter), I know that would be hard on a VW (I used to have a 1974 V dub camper back in the day) but it will help to have some on the roof to help keep the batteries right to run the heater from my experience.
@@piciorusandrei2300 couple of things. If you have a pop top…. Outside, no matter where you are will be noisier than the fan. The fan makes very little noise. And. I always where ear plugs when in the van as to not be annoyed by outside noise. Other campers and cars etc. even running water. Lovely in the day. Torture at night ha
I made a DIY power station and bolted one of the all-in-ones on top. I got the exhaust carefully wrapped so no forest fires get started. I put a fire alarm on it because it is by my teepee and it is polyester. I trust the diesel heater more than anything else but all the electrical components from China what can go wrong right. Oh, and I put a plastic cover that weatherproofs it but can catch on fire on top of it. LOL You ever see a plastic trash can on fire. I still want some distance and a fire alert.
I'm joking about the fire. It's safe but you can't be too careful. LOL Diesel really is kind of hard to catch on fire it's not like gasoline. I might get a Nomex blanket that can cover the whole thing because what fire extinguisher do I use for diesel or electrical. The power station is nothing but a vented battery cover off the ground some with a heat shield and the heater on top. I can switch between AC battery maintainer trickle charger or 150watt fast charge AC or solar panels or 12-volt battery using a buck step-up converter. The battery is isolated and vented separately. I got wingnuts on the battery so I can quickly unhook it and slide it out. It's half the weight of the whole thing it easier to lift or move.
It has one of those altitude-adjustable motherboards but I need the controller to get into the special menus to adjust it then switch it out to the new low-powered remote to conserve on battery drain and I can monitor battery charge voltage with this remote. I'm using it at 7,000 feet the air-fuel ratio to RPMs needs to be adjusted it has a low RPM and high RPM adjustment. Kind of like a 2 cycle-carbed motor but it's digital. I tape a chart on the cover. The front is the back and the back is the front now I want the warm air at the back of the teepee tent. It has 3 vents 2 for heater circulation and the one on the other side and a big 4th one on top for fresh air. The controller is on the other side because it's the front now.
I painted it with camo colors and acrylic sticks to anything and it was really cheap and sprayed it with a plastic 2-dollar air brush, got an ultra-quiet pump, and did some soundproofing. Bright orange and red and noisy say out loud steal me.
Why did you not use the metal box for the fuel pump and wiring under the van with some insulation, you had it And there would be no noise at all with total protection ????😮😮
@@urbanarkoverland I wouldn’t buy a autoterm air heater, over priced in my opinion. I’ve got their engine preheater which is worth the money. I only asked because so many creators on TH-cam have no idea about fuel dosage. I’ll bet that pump has 22 written on it?
@@Jarv263 why would a TH-camr need to know about dosage. Seems like you are flexing with a piece of information you actually know. If you don’t see value for money then please enjoy your Amazon special 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland you have a massive following, I thought 5mins of educating yourself on the pump would be sensible. Explaining to people why it’s not recommended to change the pump is better than just telling them they can’t. My “Amazon special” has been working great for the last 3 years, I’ll be doing its first service this spring. It’s nothing personal, I just see so many videos online claiming everyone is doing it wrong and they know best. It’s like the cable ties, so many vans are covered in them underneath when you can buy rubber covered stainless fuel line clips, that won’t rust or go brittle over time. I point out a small area of your video where I think you missed out important info and you come at me with attitude “Amazon special” do you really think your install is perfect?
@@urbanarkoverlandusually running them too fast, especially the big holesaw, sometimes it's lack of pressure, you need the heat to stay in the swarf not transfer to the tool.
Erm 100% are install errors? Have gone through many of these, mostly Vevo. Mostly crap. Installed correctly; they just don't last. Still searching for perfect brand. Maybe should try yours... wait, that is rebranded Planar? Slightly better than Chinese PoSs, but not by much. Maybe do a video about resurrecting "damaged" units that won't fire anymore?
Great video! Il be fitting one and stripping out my Chinese heater
what for
that is a Chinese Diesel Heater, just with a different badge
@@freewheelinfranklyn Incorrect
@@philosophysique5419 so where was it made?
@freewheelinfranklyn it's made in Europe
I'm a pro in electronics, laboratories test equipment and automation systems. I rarely see an "advising pro" on YT. This is a pro! Hats off! :)
@@Brakballe niiiiice. Thanks mate.
11:56 Here in Finland you cant modify your car tank. If you do so your car then can fail the "Katsastus" ~ MOT that is done yearly here for older cars.
You can modify your sender unit or pipes/hose like in the feeding neck.
Oh wow. Very strict. 🤷🏼♂️
Can you explain a little bit more? I don't want to drill the tank
@@zolobolo3150 Well top side of most tanks is "fuel pickup unit" that houses pump, fuel measure unit and lines out(and in).
Today those are made most likely some plastic that is harder then the tank and so they maintain the same shape if the temp is hot or gold and if hit the tank with ground and the tank moves to not get leak the pickup unit still keeps its shape. so we drill on it and shorten the pickup tube so if you bottom up the tank it don't poke hole true it + that your heater cant run you out of the fuel...
Campervans on le frith! Most helpful chap on crafter group!
Excellent.
We try to be helpful 👍
The angled cut is an timeless plumbing trick to increase the surface area of the pipe end ... better flow.
Thank you 🙏
The exhaust tip should be nearer the edge of the floorpan, poking out a just little ideally. With it like you have installed it exhaust gases will rise and collect in the upper recesses of the floorpan when parked, potentially permeating if able (e.g. something like a factory wiring boot is not gas tight). Conversions tend to have even more pass throughs of course, and if any of that exhaust gas gets back inside it’ll stink.
Nope. It’s fine. Found a problem where you didn’t need to. Full sign off from auto term. They use this video in their advertising. So think it’s ok.
Not looking for problems, it’s simply contrary to the installation guidance from other respected manufacturers including Webasto and Eberspacher.
This advice is 100% correct - it doesn't matter who 'signs off' on it - even corporations can be dumb.
The exhaust gases will by definition rise & well under the vehicle - & only a breeze will have any chance of actually taking it away from the vehicle.
@@ArifGhostwriter you know many exhaust pipes on actual vehicles terminate under the van itself.
So my Mercedes sprinter exhaust terminates half way down the van in the centre. What about that then.
@@urbanarkoverland Terminating halfway down, sure - but not _underneath_ the vehicle - an engine exhaust tip not reaching the edge of the vehicle would be illegal.
Just look at how the heater exhaust terminates on any caravan or motorhome - they would never terminate underneath the floor pan.
You're not arguing against me - you're arguing against physics! Hot gasses will rise first.
Your installation would only be okay if the vehicle is moving the entire time.
If parked, not so good - vehicles are simply not designed to be upwardly gas/air-proof.
Great video! - did you have to remove the flexible ad Blu filler neck so as to remove the fuel tank filler neck?
Yes mate. 👍🏻
I’m glad that I watched your video. You will save me a lot of headaches on the installation. Thanks for your amazing video!
@@SuperDave-vj9en excellent stuff. 10 percent off from autoterm with UAO10 too 👍🏻
standard syringes are perfect to prefill diesel fuel lines, saves a lot of time getting the heater running first time (and prevents bubbles that caused me some headache when i installed my first.
@@pouncepounce7417 ye. Or suck on them ha
@@urbanarkoverland eh. diesel is not the healthiest thing by a faar stretch
@@pouncepounce7417 ye I was joking 🤷🏼♂️
There’s a Arrow on the sender unit and on the tank that have to line up with each other . If you don’t your sender gauge won’t work properly as there’s a lump on the in side of the take witch stops the gauge from working properly
Excellent info thanks
There's an indelible marker pen that can help make sure everything goes back where it came from too.
@@dancarter482 in the sender?
Has an arrow too. But a pic always helps.
Prime the fuel lines slightly with the prime feature then you will probably only get error 13 once or twice or maybe not at all.
Just be careful to not over prime as you will never get rid of all the air bubbles in the fuel line and will over prime it trying to get rid of the said bubbles, in this instance you will get a big cloud of unburnt fuel coming out of the exhaust pipe at start up.
Thanks 🙏
Good job great video.
Which planer would you install in a Sprinter 7 m long
2d or 4d
Thank you 4 the video
4d for sure mate. No doubt in my mind. Email if you are looking for a price 👍🏻
Brilliant explanation. You know your game. I'm very impressed. Subscribed.
😀
Fabulous video, thank you, I’ll be in touch about fitting mine 😊
🔥
Cracking video. How would you secure the pipe onto the heater outside the van if you shouldn’t use a jubilee clip
You don’t mate. It’s a snug fit. Make sure it’s cut to the correct length and it will stay there as it should have nowhere to move to 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland mine is quite a long run under the van
Hi good vid as always but just noticed there isn't a hole in eghaust silence I have same set up in my crafter and I had to drill a hole in mine to drain condensation
Autoterm directly told me that it’s not necessary 🤷🏼♂️
I understand almost all silencers are stainless steel nowadays & can cope with a puddle of condensation though if you put it somewhere daft like in direct spray from a wheel it may be a different story.
I hung my fuel pump on a thick exhaust mount rubber, so much quieter than the anything else
Great idea 👍🏻
Thank you for this video. I hope my Ford Transit has a sender tool to allow me to get my fuel sender unit in there properly. Using the auxiliary port is not advisable according to the Velit Gasoline (Petrol) heater guide, using the included fuel sender unit and hardware IS recommended - highly due to performance issues. I think people shy away from your setup as it looks daunting to undertake. But with videos like these it absolutely helps instill confidence.
Thank you mate. Appreciate that.
Can always use the option if drilling any flat surface on the tank 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland I thought about that sir, but isn’t there an issue with not being able to get the (nut) hardware beneath the surface of the tank? Do we not need a large hole 🕳️ or access panel to make that happen?
@@mikefranks4528 please watch that section again.
There is a crafty little washer that you angle. It drops in and then acts as a back washer. 16mm hole. And no need to access from behind 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland oh yeahhhhh, that’s right. Okay, wish me luck!
@@mikefranks4528 no problem at all. Good luck. Take ya time 👍🏻👌🏻
Excellent video and info! Regardless of brand name, I have learned a lot from you. Thank you for sharing so freely.
Thank you 👍🏻
Fantastic vlog, well presented and should be a benchmark for anyone fitting a diesel heater. I run a "suitcase" type diesel heater, which is best for my application and power it from my Jackery (10amp), and it runs it perfectly 👌.
@@theoldhobbit3640 hi Thanks for your comments. Some run more than others. My jackery wouldn’t run my autoterm 👍🏻
Are you installing a leisure battery in your Kombi ? If so, where will you fit it with the heater taking up the space under your drivers seat...
Hi mate. I have the Clayton. I would assume both will not fit. Can go under the passenger seat though. The battery that is.
Interesting location for the Clayton unit , want one in my Kombi but struggling with location as have Ovano in the back
Hi mate. If you need help. Email me and we can chat. Plus. I offer a massive discount on Clayton 👍🏻👍🏻
Does the heater really use more than 10 amps for startup? I'm looking for a 110v to 12 volt houe adapter, and not sure if I should get a 10 amp or 15 amp adapter. The 15 amp are much more expensive and common.
8A is usual max current draw
Excellent video, succinct, on point - very helpful. Thanks.😊
Excellent. Thanks
The reason the display cable is not longer is because these heaters are used in many many different types of vehicle and the majority can use the standard cable. I requested the extensions so we can add modems under the drivers seat in a VW transporter without needing to install it by the display. For installations where you want the display at the rear of the van there is a 7m long display cable that replaces the original display cable.
Yep. I do state there are longer cables available.
👍🏻
Nice mate enjoyed that. Hope that cut off tool Adam was using was an evolution power tools one 🙂
Ha ha. Bosch I think. Something fancy.
They don't do one, Bosch for the win. Also gifted 🤙😜
Hi thank you for posting learnt a lot from your video.The outlet hose where the hot air enters the cabin,on mine it’s pushed inside the heater outlet should it be connected to the outside like yours and not pushed inside the heater.
Yes. Definitely. And do not use a jubilee clip. I’m surprised you haven’t had an issue so far. If it’s crushed it down a bit. See if you have enough play to cut 10mm off and get back to fresh pipe 👍🏻
Thanks for getting back to me,yes I’m getting a temperture sensor error 12 and error 13 the unit powers off after about 12 minutes.The hose isn’t long it pretty much goes into a bend straight away on the outlet as I have it under my drivers seat.Could it be what’s causing it is the hose pushed into the outlet it might cause the air to be restricted coming out.Yes I won’t use the jubilee clip to connect it to it thanks.
@@chrisl3977 it may be the bend. Has to be a slow bend.
@@urbanarkoverland Ok thanks I’ll see if I can have a lesser bend on it.Thanks again for your help👍
@@chrisl3977 👍🏻👍🏻
Do you must purge any air out of the fuel lines after you reconnect them?
I know diesel pumps don't like to run dry and i had a hard time starting the engine after a fuel filter change.
No mate. One turn of the key and it fired.
👍🏻
I notice you did not have fuel filter in the line
You do not need one. Please don’t aftermarket install one. 👍🏻
Not necessary on vehicle fuel 👍🏻
My Heater is noisy when stood outside of the van , I know you can get lagging to so say reduce it, would you recommend ???
Is it a Chinese diesel heater?
Thanks for clarification on the exhaust direction option.
@@DKWTyler 👍🏻
Great video and very informative. . Does the end of the exhaust have to be out from under the vehicle as in should it stick out the side of the vehicle to prevent fumes building up under the van. Thanks.
@ if you can. If you want. Then yes. But the position I chose is perfectly acceptable. It’s where autoterm advise. And it’s where it is located on factory California and ocean vans. 👍🏻
I installed my Autoterm D4 in my t6 using all genuine vw bracket and ducting bit on the expensive side but well worth it for an oem look.
Nice
Two of my fave MVT blokes 👍🏻👌🏼🤙🏼
Ha ha. Yes lad 😂👍🏻
I've got a heater I just bench tested yesterday. Wires up = glow plug down. I think the advice should be to make sure of glow plug orientation rather than wire orientation as those can be changed
Nope. I’m fine with the advice I’ve given as that’s what THIS manufacturer states. It’s a model Specific video to ensure it has warranty.
Are you sure it's safe to have the exhaust exit under the middle of the van instead of the side? I'm in the process of fitting a heater and I'm slightly worried about it but really don't feel like ordering a longer exhaust pipe and wait for it to arrive
This is how autoterm suggest it. And how it is on the California and ocean from factory 🤷🏼♂️
Great video iv been thinking about using this location to install my heater, Do you have a video to show the noise from the heater running as its mounted internally? thanks
Unfortunately not. That doesn’t sound like much of a video ha
others have tried it but it's not a useful scene in a video because both different microphones & different people perceive the noise differently.
Hello, can you fit the diesel heater outside of the van? (on the vw t25 you got some space outside under the passenger front or in the engine bay? and what about the off roading, where would you fit the air intake so it doesn't fill up with water while driving?
So. You can fit outside on any van. The heating air intake goes back into the van bathe combustion air intake is the same. Just make sure it isn’t running when offriading. Check out my recent videos. In the quarry and first episode of Xmas roadshow. Do some big water splashes. No problems.
I have an Autoterm and it worked great for about 2 months. Then it started throwing error code 13, shortly after that the heater filled my entire sprinter van with exhaust fumes while my dog was inside, thankfully we came back in time to open the door and let her out. Still working on getting the smell of diesel exhaust out of our interior.
Sounds like there is something fundamentally wrong with either the installation or the unit.
Do you know what was used to seal the turrret plate with?
Great informative tutorial tho, thanks
@@getonitnow sika will do mate. Or flue sealant 👍🏻
Would you fit one on a fiat Ducato Lads and what kind of lead times we looking at.
I would travel from Tamworth, Staffordshire.
Roughly about an hrs drive.
Great video. 👍
Hi mate. Reach out to Adam via email in the description. Or Google campervansenlefrith 👍🏻
@urbanarkoverland Topman.
Will do on Monday 👍
@@DRONEMAGIC14 👍🏻
Exhaust should go to outside of van Most campers have vents through floor.. gas drop out vents. Allowing exhaust to come out in centre of van as shown here will cause hot poisonous exhaust fumes to build up under van and rise though these vents..
Yet it doesn’t????
You are wrong this is how VW fit the factory ones, and this is also the way the manufacturer recommends fitting. The small cut out in the undertray is for this purpose. Thanks for your input though, but definitely incorrect information.
@@campervansen-le-frith8517 from the horses mouth too 😍
And wrong!!,
@@fradaja Please enlighten me? This is how it is from the factory.
Great info thanks! Could you tell me the name of the sealant you use please? Gary
@@garycarswell81 sika is fine. Anything to seal it really. Won’t get hot
@@urbanarkoverlandthanks mate
Outstanding video! Quick question…. Is there any clamp or anything that holds the heat shield sleeve in place on the exhaust pipe? It’s probably not zip tied, but I don’t see any other clamp in the kit. I didn’t see you use anything either. Thanks!! Cheers!
@@mattsavage no mate. Thats just held on by tight fit alone. Chances are you have to bend your exhaust. It won’t move. 👍🏻
Jackery 100% runs this. I have the Jackery 500. Most draw I've seen is 100w, about 8amps. Been fitted for over 2 years with 100's of run hours. Mine is also a 5kW.
If yours is a 5kw. Yours is not a planar. And therefore has a different power draw. 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland it's a pump, a fan and a glow plug. The kW output doesn't determine the electrical power draw. Just had a look on Planar's website and doesn't specify a power draw. Mine pulls 8A on start up and about 800mA on tick over.
@@SuperGeemer I wasn’t stating the kw as a comparison. I was stating it as direct info that planar do not make a 5kw. I had a jackery. And this diesel heater. And I assure you. It did not run it. I thought my heater was playing up. Plugged into goal zero. And away it went
Where did you locate the comfort controller in the end mate?
@@geedub2019 oooh. Watch my Christmas roadshow video. It’s at the beginning of one of them. Very clever idea in the end.
Can the heater be installed under the passengers seat, or is the outlets to awkward to run?
I think that may land in the way of the fuel tank.
That's what I was thinking, the leisure battery is under the drivers so may need to fit the heater under the van 👍
@@lukemessenger9531 that bracket autoterm make is absolutely fine. 👍🏻👍🏻
On the silent pump,once all the air is out of tge fuel system you will not be able to hear the pump inside the vehicle as long as you install the pipework so it doesn’t rattle against the body.
Excellent thanks for your input Owen. The quiet pump is a game changer I must say.
In the Chinese diesel heaters you can hear them across the field ha ha
I only have the exhaust trough the cargofloor outside , i kept the airfilter inside so it cant suck in any dirt or exhaustfumes
@@JoeBaR-202 I strongly advise against that
@urbanarkoverland ok , what are the arguements for that ?
@@JoeBaR-202Suffication, it takes all the oxygen out off your van to burn diesel in the heater. You need good ventilation if you do.
Great explained video.
Just a question regarding the fuel line. Should it have been covered with split conduit?
Hi mate. No not really. You can of course. But shouldn’t be routing it anywhere that it potentially needs it.
So…. Sure go ahead. But not necessary. Your vehicle fuel line isn’t 👍🏻
That mounting bracket looks like it's only tack welded in three places. Surely the gap between the two parts should be sealed to prevent exhaust ingress?
No. The exhaust is blowing into open air. Remember the seal I did. That seals both parts. Exhaust cannot go back in.
Shouldn't the exhaust end be exiting from under the vehicle ?
@@RR-ty6ki it does exit under the vehicle.
This is the exact place the vw California terminates. If it’s good enough for them.
Great video really helpful. I have a Caddy Maxi and I want to install one of these heaters, have you installed a heater in a Caddy before?
No mate. But all principals are the same bud 👍🏻
If you hold the 3 dots down on the controller you can start and stop it without having to scroll through the options. Your pump didn't sound very well primed as it shouldn't have that metallic sounding click and shouldn't be heard inside the van. Good video though 👌.
Yes. Owen from autoterm just said the same 👍🏻 thanks
The turret option you have here .... is it the 38mm option or the 55mm? Thanks
@@danielmcmullen871 that’s the 38mm standard.
UAO10 from autoterm. That will get you a decent saving 👍🏻
@urbanarkoverland nice one thankyou !
Great video...just wondered what are your thoughts on the pump wiring connector being outside the vehicle, I assume its not waterproof, will it not go rusty?
It is waterproof. This is where autoterm recommend therefore I’m more than happy 😀
Sparky Rule #1. Better looking at it than for it!
Exactly 👍🏻
Hi, really informative vid, one question though, have you experience of living with an internal and externally installed heater?, if so, is it louder when installed inside compared to outside?.
I have not. But to be honest. I wear ear plugs when camping. To dull out any noise. So don’t hear a thing any way 👍🏻
A D2 heater will install into that space onto a single flat rib with no issues (not using the place) it also has a thick gasket that seals everything so ne need for sealant. It's lot less drilling big holes and IMO weaking the floor. I can only see this being useful like you said if you have a ply floor or something to keep things away from the hot exhaust but on a T5 and T6 under the seat its not needed at all. Not saying what you did was wrong its not just letting you and other know its doable without the massive plate / hole in the floor not to mention a decent metal hole saw that size for a one time use is not cheap. I have installed around 20 now without the plates. I did use a plate for a Merc build but drilled a lot of small holes rather than use a hole saw again just down to costs of a one time use tool.
You can and I have installed the heater exactly the same as the d2. With a few small holes using the gasket as a template.
But please don’t assume the floor to be ‘weakened’. A. It’s sheet metal and therefore not structural. And b. This position is literally surrounded by chassis members on all 4 sides. It couldn’t be any stronger.
Isn’t the d2 a lot more money?
@@urbanarkoverland yeah I was just letting people know that this was an option for the t5 and t6 and it could save them a bit of time not to mention if they sell the van and remove the heater it's a bit easier to pop in a few plugs than covering that size of hole. I believe anything within 30cm of a mounting point like the seat is considered structural? Yeah I totally agree. The D2 is since it's the original manufacturer of the diesel heater design. I have installed a few of the 1st gen? Chinese diesel heaters and they work but I can't say I was that impressed with them tbh and I noticed they seem to fail a lot with motor issues and random errors. I can't talk for the one you installed or any of the newer heaters tbh it looks like a nice heater though and I like the controller it's a huge upgrade from the older Chinese heaters.
The floor is so uneven in this location otherwise we would have fixed directly to the floor as described. That's is exactly how I do a Transit custom.
@@campervansen-le-frith8517 the ribs in the floor line up and are the same width for the t5. Transit I can't say because I've never messed around with one but I have installed many in a t5 and t6 without the plate and fitting on a single rib in the floor
Fuel out take as it is bend as they send it can be installed on the side of the tank ... is it right ??
No. Never the side. On the top 👍🏻
Where abouts have you located the Clayton LPS mate?
For the time being just under my seat.
In truth… think it’s gonna end up a camper. So not committing to anything 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland under the front passenger seat or rear seats? I didn't think it would fit there. Might have solved my dilemma
@@bennwood4812 no no no. Wont further bud. Under my rear seats. Does show it in video 👍🏻
Have you purchased?
@urbanarkoverland it was just a fleeting glimpse in the video that I couldn't have a proper butchers at it.
Not purchases yet, I did speak with Mark Stinger when there was the uber sexy discount going down, but it would have spent absolutely ages being sat in the garage - and my wife might have helped deterred me at that moment in time 🤐
It's the next item on the list though. Just need to finalise to where to locate it now that the Steelpod is in situ
Thanks. Explanation clear !
👌🏻
Having my webasto diesel heater put in next month looking forward to it. I am having the hot outlet in the B pillars though like Oem not in the seat base
That’s a cool idea.
Who’s installing that. 👍🏻
@urbanarkoverland Absolut5 Audio they are also adding there signature Hertz sound system and leisure battery.
@@marinejunkies9625 nice one ☝️
what size is inline fuse. im assuming this can run straight through my fuse box thats connected to my leisure battery. no faffing with inverters?
Yes. It’s 12v. Comes with fuse fitted. 👍🏻
Hi, I just mounted the Autoterm 2D on my VW T6 van, it seems to work perfectly! One thing I've noticed is that I can hear when the drop of fuel goes in into the combustion chamber when I run it at low speed, with that I mean the noise of the combustion chamber is not linear anymore but it goes up (when it gest the drop) and down, I've been trying to listen to all videos the noise in background but I couldn't figure it out 😄, can you tell me?
Never heard this myself mate. No strange noises. Not the pump is it?
Thanks for sharing this, following the Autoterm Air 2d notice, the distance between the fuel tank and the pump is 1 meters max if I see your install it seems that you have more than this no ?
Yes mate nice seen this in the instructions. Maybe that’s a preference. All I know is. Autoterm use my video in their own website as installation instructions so much be deemed as ok. 😀
Is the air intake not a bit close to the DPF? Gets a bit toasty.
@@JimBiddle. nah man. All good 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland Thanks for that, doing an install of one of these into a Ducato with a similar layout. Cheers.
Hi there Thanks for this brilliand video. About to install a Levana Pro in my VW T5.1 but i'm wodering did you put the undetray back in place after the install, and did you mod it if you did ?
@@VC-wg5wd sure did. 👍🏻
Think the fuel pick up pipes are cut at 45 to reduce resistance of the fuel being sucked in? As you effectively making the hole bigger 🤔
Nice 👍🏻
fab video, helped me out a bunch. Quick q, how loud is the unit? on pretty low it stil sounds quite loud both inside and out even after initial start up has settled down and its not the pump ticking, its the fan/ whirring noise of the heater. I know these are meant to be pretty quiet once running but it sounds louder than my last chinese diesel heater. Any ideas? I nerded out and held my phone about a foot away from the unit running which gave a reading of about 88db.
88db. That’s about the same as a strimmer isn’t it. Nowhere near that mate.
The mouse doesn’t even enter my thoughts so can’t be that bad
Why the issue with wire direction, is this purely because its under the vehicle and to do with water and dirt ingress?
I am installing one of these into a case for portability as a work unit rather than for use in a vehicle and cannot see any reason why the wires cannot be facing down in such an installation.
@@stevefox3763 heater not designed to work in the other orientation. Not 100 percent sure why. The cheaper Chinese ones may not have same issue.
@@urbanarkoverland I might need to do some more research then, I have the triclicks and the manual suggests it can be mounted in any orientation, even vertically!
The easy install in the case I have would be wires down, intake/exhaust out the side on the fixed panel side of the case which would put heat outlet at the front but I guess I could modify the case to flip the fixed/removable panels to be able to change the orientation of the heater inside.
@@stevefox3763 always refer to manufacturer opinion mate 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland I think I have got to the bottom of this and I think the instructions for my heater are wrong and should be like the instructions you refer too.
I believe the orientation of the heater is an issue due to the Glow plug and fuel delivery needing to be side/top on the internal chamber but putting the heater on its side with wires down places them side/bottom.
@@stevefox3763 👍🏻👍🏻
Great video but i wouldnt feel safe with the exhaust outlet under the van.
@@Hiker97 it’s where vw put theirs. And where the manufacturer says so
Can these be installed on end, with the 3" air intake/hot air vent at the bottom/top and the combustion air intake/exhaust port/fuel line on the side ? I've been looking for the information for quite some time but haven't found a credible source saying you can or cannot mount it that way.
Thanks for sharing your install process.
No mate. Definitely not. Must be horizontal. And as I mentioned regarding orientation 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland Thanks for the reply. I though it odd that the Webasto manual showed a diagram indicating it could be mounted like that.
@@michaelg4931 oh. Well if the webasti says it can. Remember i am only speaking for this model. If it shows in the instructions I would say yes. NOT this unit though.
@@urbanarkoverland Your advice probably applies to the unit I have as well, it's a Chinese copy not an original Webasto.
@@michaelg4931 oh then def fit horizontal.
Well documented content 💪🏾
Thanks pal. Toon a minute 👍🏻
Took
Does water build up in the muffler ?
No and no need for a hole 👍🏻👍🏻
Thoughts on installing this under your van somewhere? Or on the roof?
Not in the roof. Under the van ok. See the intro on location. They make a bracket.
Guess you couldn’t be arsed to watch the vlog and actually get the information provided on fitting it under the van ………on the roof 😂
@@mikefandango294 this guy gets it
Your exhaust muffler doesn't appear to have a condensation drain hole at the bottom ?
I may have seen this somewhere. But direct from autoterm is that this is not necessary
👍🏻
What brand is the diesel heater?
Autoterm.
Should be a link below. And a discount code 👍🏻
Why no fuel filter? Are they not actually needed?
No mate. Not on vehicle fuel. If you were in a boat or something maybe. But not advised in vehicle installation 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland sweet 👍 the angle of mine is probably the cause of my fueling issue. Will remove 😁
@@james1466 ye.
Ever fitted one to a Discovery 4?
@@G5MDRMatt no mate. Same rules apply though
@@urbanarkoverland Trying to figure out how to get it on my overlander. I drive though allot of water. Heat mount inside but the intake would be full of water 😆
@ you just don’t run it while wading mate
The exhaust requires small drain holes as well
@@dudeleboski2692 no it doesn’t. Not any more.
@@dudeleboski2692 only if you feel you are going to be in deep snow or high water
Hello, great video, thanks for the advice. One thing I’m hoping you can help with is where to wire the heater to. The manual says direct to the leisure battery, but Roamer recommend wiring it to the fuse box. Is it ok to wire it to the fuse box, and if so, how does this work with the existing in line fuse on the power cable?
The only reason autoterm would suggest going straight to leisure battery is that they want to avoid the possibility of you turning it off mid cycle. Say you killed the 12v supplies to work on something.
Mine is currently wired to my fuse board. Either cut the inline fuse out or simply match it in the fuse board 👍🏻
Absolute legend! Thanks so much for getting back to me 🙏
From italy ....the best.. great ..Ivano
@@ivanmar93 thank you
wires facing up is not a good way to decide on orientation -- its possible on many of these to switch the wires to the other side of the case, and then you'll have the whole thing upside down. the fuel inlet pipe has to be "up" thats the best way to keep track
Not on this unit it isn’t.
@@urbanarkoverland my mistake then... My knockoff has a cutout on the other side for switching wires
@@jotrutch haha ha. Ye. This is t the same. And thanks for not just being an ass and sticking your ya guns.
Literally says in the instructions that that is how you decide orientation 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland these things can be the best accessory you ever buy, or a giant headache... Just wanna make sure people get it right. I rely on one of these every night, and followed some bad instructions early on when installing, that kept me perplexed for months, thinking "I did everything right!" when I didn't. This orientation stuff wasn't one of the pitfalls for me but anyone like me that walks into this with only general skills could get snagged on these kinds of things. Anyway your vid is pretty clear it's for a specific unit, just assumed the imitations were the same. Thanks for the content, I'm sure it will be helpful to many
@@jotrutch ye. Had a few messages. Why isn’t there a hole in the exhaust etc. and followed the letter of the law. Contacted autoterm and they said it’s not needed.
Autoterm director emailed me and said it’s the best install video he has seen. Exactly how it should be done. So I’m proud of that. Hope you’re sorted now.
The exaust has a hole that neeed to face down for moisture evacuation
Not needed 👍🏻
I have a 300L fuel tank on my live on boat and use red diesel which costs about a quid a litre and sometimes cheaper, used to be 50p only a few years ago 😞
I got around 200L right now and my is boat out the water (due to medical stuff i am going through ) so heating is already paid for and electric heating costs too much, can't wait to be back on the water though.
When I was on the road the only options for diesel heaters were the real expensive ones at 700 to 1000 quid, I paid 50 quid for mine, yes a cheap chinese one and it is running now and am toasty warm though that does look like a good system TBH.
@@KarrierBag winning
23:30 I guess the wiring is so long due to so many in RV's, if I had had one in my old Dodge 50 (Built in UK not a US Dodge vehicle, yes honest) 30ft motorhome I would have needed a long wiring loom like you got.
26:30 use a syringe, I use one I got from a chemists for 2 quid.
28:30 I have 400w solar feeding my leisure batteries, ok a bit crap during winter), I know that would be hard on a VW (I used to have a 1974 V dub camper back in the day) but it will help to have some on the roof to help keep the batteries right to run the heater from my experience.
What about fan noise inside?
@@piciorusandrei2300 couple of things. If you have a pop top…. Outside, no matter where you are will be noisier than the fan.
The fan makes very little noise.
And. I always where ear plugs when in the van as to not be annoyed by outside noise. Other campers and cars etc. even running water. Lovely in the day. Torture at night ha
@@urbanarkoverland thanks for the reply, i am still thinking were to install it.
@ are you going for autoterm. They really are not that noisy. UAO10 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland Eberspacher D2, i think i will do it under the car...
I made a DIY power station and bolted one of the all-in-ones on top. I got the exhaust carefully wrapped so no forest fires get started. I put a fire alarm on it because it is by my teepee and it is polyester. I trust the diesel heater more than anything else but all the electrical components from China what can go wrong right. Oh, and I put a plastic cover that weatherproofs it but can catch on fire on top of it. LOL You ever see a plastic trash can on fire. I still want some distance and a fire alert.
It's something for truck camping or pulling it by horse on a sled. It's not really as heavy as firewood.
I want to do a foam and fiberglass camper shell next summer and I'll make two 3 inch vent holes for ciculation.
I'm joking about the fire. It's safe but you can't be too careful. LOL Diesel really is kind of hard to catch on fire it's not like gasoline. I might get a Nomex blanket that can cover the whole thing because what fire extinguisher do I use for diesel or electrical. The power station is nothing but a vented battery cover off the ground some with a heat shield and the heater on top. I can switch between AC battery maintainer trickle charger or 150watt fast charge AC or solar panels or 12-volt battery using a buck step-up converter. The battery is isolated and vented separately. I got wingnuts on the battery so I can quickly unhook it and slide it out. It's half the weight of the whole thing it easier to lift or move.
It has one of those altitude-adjustable motherboards but I need the controller to get into the special menus to adjust it then switch it out to the new low-powered remote to conserve on battery drain and I can monitor battery charge voltage with this remote. I'm using it at 7,000 feet the air-fuel ratio to RPMs needs to be adjusted it has a low RPM and high RPM adjustment. Kind of like a 2 cycle-carbed motor but it's digital. I tape a chart on the cover. The front is the back and the back is the front now I want the warm air at the back of the teepee tent. It has 3 vents 2 for heater circulation and the one on the other side and a big 4th one on top for fresh air. The controller is on the other side because it's the front now.
I painted it with camo colors and acrylic sticks to anything and it was really cheap and sprayed it with a plastic 2-dollar air brush, got an ultra-quiet pump, and did some soundproofing. Bright orange and red and noisy say out loud steal me.
Why did you not use the metal box for the fuel pump and wiring under the van with some insulation,
you had it
And there would be no noise at all with total protection ????😮😮
That box doesn’t allow for the fuel pump as well. So I would be in the same position but with the heater outside.
Why can’t you fit a different brand pump?
Must be fuel rate or something. It’s an electrical item don’t forget. But if that’s straight from autoterm. Why would ya?
@@urbanarkoverland I wouldn’t buy a autoterm air heater, over priced in my opinion. I’ve got their engine preheater which is worth the money. I only asked because so many creators on TH-cam have no idea about fuel dosage. I’ll bet that pump has 22 written on it?
@@Jarv263 why would a TH-camr need to know about dosage. Seems like you are flexing with a piece of information you actually know.
If you don’t see value for money then please enjoy your Amazon special 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland you have a massive following, I thought 5mins of educating yourself on the pump would be sensible. Explaining to people why it’s not recommended to change the pump is better than just telling them they can’t. My “Amazon special” has been working great for the last 3 years, I’ll be doing its first service this spring. It’s nothing personal, I just see so many videos online claiming everyone is doing it wrong and they know best. It’s like the cable ties, so many vans are covered in them underneath when you can buy rubber covered stainless fuel line clips, that won’t rust or go brittle over time. I point out a small area of your video where I think you missed out important info and you come at me with attitude “Amazon special” do you really think your install is perfect?
@@Jarv263 I’ll look forward to your video. 👍🏻
Good overall advice.
👍🏻
Very good 😊
Thanks you
Nice video, thanks for that
👍🏻
I fitted a Chinese one for £150. Never had a problem with it.
Cool
Mine was £80 so far so good.
Nice instructions.
Thanks 😀
Good drills.
They burned out after that 1 hole
@@urbanarkoverlandusually running them too fast, especially the big holesaw, sometimes it's lack of pressure, you need the heat to stay in the swarf not transfer to the tool.
@@alanhat5252 ye I was maybe exaggerating. I do like to use a fresh drill though. Seen some examples where it can just slip about and make a mess
Erm 100% are install errors? Have gone through many of these, mostly Vevo. Mostly crap. Installed correctly; they just don't last. Still searching for perfect brand. Maybe should try yours... wait, that is rebranded Planar? Slightly better than Chinese PoSs, but not by much. Maybe do a video about resurrecting "damaged" units that won't fire anymore?
@@BrainCandyQuiz I didn’t say 100 percent install errors. I said 99 percent of warranty claims are installation error
Can you fit mine
Use email in the description 👍🏻
I can yes 👍👍
Mine didn't even come with instructions.
Watch the video 😏
Great video
Thanks
That's what i meant bud for the pump
That box is about £120 ha ha