Ok, so if you messed up with time or oil pressure light comes on you need to do the following (copied from a website): The following is an oil pump priming method for a MAZDA BT50 and Ford Ranger 3.2 Diesel. Disconnect the battery to prevent you from starting the engine Place an oil catchment bucket below the engine. Remove the oil filter Fill up the engine with 15 (Fifteen) liters of oil Allow the engine to stand for a full day of 24 Hours After 24 hours connect a portable compressor to the breather pipe situated on top of the engine. Seal the air hose to the breather pipe securely. You can seal the oil dipstick if you wish, but not 100% necessary. Get an assistant to watch the open oil filter housing for oil coming through Start pressurizing the system by forcing air through the breather pipe slowly Do not exceed 0.6 bar of pressure if possible. (High pressure can damage or unsettle any seals) Low air pressure is enough since you simply want to induce a bit of pressure to push oil into the oil pickup tube Watch the oil filter housing for any oil pushing through - this is an indicator that the oil pump is full and primed. Refit oil filter Reconnect the battery Crank the engine in short 10-second intervals Leave the oil cap off and observe the oil pushing up over the hydraulic lifters Secure oil filter and cap DO NOT REV THE ENGINE! DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE! Drain the engine of the excess oil. Ensure you do not exceed 10 minutes Close the sump screw with a new sump washer Check that the oil pressure light is off (allow 5 seconds) Remove the oil cap to ensure oil is flowing over the hydraulic lifters
Done as indicated, great information !!! After about 20 hours of having filled with 15 liters of oil, it went up to the filter housing without the need for additional pressure.
Man this has just made me feel confident in doing mine. Especially mechanics want to charge 3 to 400 just to do the oil filter and oil. Im doing mine this weekend and will save over 200 bucks. Absolute legend thanks for the video.
Followed your way and successfully did oil change for my Ranger by myself for the first time. I didn’t time it but it was very smooth so I was not worried or in a hurry at all. Thanks for your inspiration.
If you want to avoid the messy oil filter situation, just loose the oil filter a bit then drain the sump, as the oil drains out slowly unscrew the oil filter and most of the oil will drain down. Now you can remove the oil filter without any mess ;)
Thank you! Great video, not too long and straight to the point. No video wobbles and good audio overdub with instructions. Like all things, it looks so easy when you know what you're doing.
Thanks for this video. I did the oil and filter on mine today after watching this a couple of times. Having everything ready I was able to do the oil and filter in under 8 minutes.
Russell Houchin some one had mentioned that it was difficult to change the oil and that you had to remove the tire to get to the filter I’m thinking about getting one myself and that comment had put the ranger out of my mind cuz of that
One thing he didn't mention is that when you change the oil, just do that task from start to finish. I've heard of a mechanic dropping the oil, then changing the fuel filter while it drained. A fuel filter clip was lost for a considerable time preventing a "start up" to prime the oil pump. Apparently, the procedure is to put 15 litres of oil in the sump, leave over night, then drain 5 litres of oil from the sump before attempting to start the engine.
Good advice, just one thing at a time when it comes to these. I too have heard that overfilling the sump can prime the pump with oil. Definitely would try it if I was caught out!!
I only just bought a ranger, second hand and im glad i spoke to the previous owner regarding oil changers as she is a diesel mechanic. I have let all my other vehicles drain over night, not this beast. 🤔😣
Ive bookmarked your video on this ,i told a mate about the time limit and he doesnt believe it so im going to show him this video . i came across this when reading about a couple who were caravaning and they found out the hard way .
Hi, just watched and serviced a 2019 3.2 Ranger for the first time (this was its first service also) Completed the service in under 10 minutes (had it stop watched) and to my horror the LOW OIL PRESSURE warning came on!! Removed the oil filter and it was bone dry! not a drip of oil, confirming that the oil pump definitely drained itself and could no re-prime. Found another video explaining that they have changed the oil in x2 Rangers before in 5minutes (oil only no filter) and the LOW PRESSURE WARNING comes on. Seems to be that this 10minute time frame is bullshit from FORD/MAZDA. Would love to know if anyone else has experienced this or heard of this problem, especially if you work in a dealership. CHEERS. And a great video.
Firstly, I hope you have now primed the pump and have oil pressure! I have heard accounts of people taking 30mins+ and having no issues which adds confusion to this problem. I have had a number of oil samples tested from these engines and about 1/4 had elevated levels of diesel contamination and have very low viscosity. I believe this is causing the oil pump drainback problem. Would like to hear of others thoughts.......
@@killawattgarage happened to me exactly same as above i had to hand pump oil into the pump at the filter housing screwed it back on and bingo, but im shit scared for next time, the oil was hot old and very thin so i think it drained really fast and the viscosity thing is a major factor
I just did my ford 2016 ranger 3.2 lit change oil. Looks like I spent more than 15 minutes because I missed to re install the little part inside oil filter cap but I re filled the oil in less than 10 minutes. I opened again the oil filter, put that part on the center of the new filter and returned the cap. One click and it started without any warning lights on my dashboard.
The whole process does not have to be done in 10 minutes . Take as long as you like to change the filter , it's the time taken to drain and replace the oil in sump that needs to be done in 10 minutes .
My understanding is that once the filter is opened to the atmosphere oil is free to run back through the oil galleries and potentially drain the pump. I have yet to tear down one of these engine and fully investigate the possible drain back situation so I like to lean on the side of caution and still aim for 10 minutes total time. I have heard stories of people draining all night and having no issues and others doing the process in under 10 and having no oil pressure on start up. Happy to hear other stories.
@@killawattgarage the oil pump I imagine is submerged in oil until the sump is drained then you have 10 minutes to refill and submerge the pump in new oil .
@@deanwitt7903 I have had a good look at the pump location on exploded engine diagrams buts its hard to tell if the pump is fully or partially submerged. If definitely has a pickup tube.
Best, how to for a Ranger oil change. You removed the "fear" factor of doing it myself. A totally differnt mindset needed for the Ranger compared to my ZD30 Patrol. Thanks👍
@@SlaterGator Did you guys like your Patrols after buying the Ranger? I’m kind of considering as one of my options going from a 120 petrol Prado to a ZD30 patrol, but I’m aware those Patrols are old school and have gutless engines. Just after the thoughts from people who owned them as previous 4wds.
@@cliffbooth7075 My Patrol went everywhere and did everything I could've asked for. But yea the ZD30 is completely gutless compared to the 3.2 Ranger. You could look into the Ford Everest 3.2 Titanium. Thats similar to a prado..
It's hard to tell after if your oil filter is leaking from residual oil or not. Oil does drip down in some weird places which you may have missed with the degreaser cleaning up
Some things that make it faster for changing the oil if you have a 2 post hoist is to take the car up halfway take only 2 of the scrivets out open the filter housing with a rag inbetween the filter housing and chassis rail to reduce spillage and lift the car up all the way drain the oil and when you bring the car back down replace the filter (That’s the most efficient way if you are working on more than one a day
Sometimes the internal portion of the filter housing comes out with the filter. This may need to be clipped back into filter housing. It is essential for blocking one end of filter so the oil goes through the filter.
This is definitely an oil change where you need to be well organized with zero distraction. Sometimes you have to wonder with the auto engineers; whether they are just being dopey or whether the bean counters got involved with parts decisions? The oil filter seems ridiculously small considering the near 10L of oil required? This is a stress no one needs, i'd be shit scared to even take it to a dealer with 1st year apprentice kid changing my oil, you know how distracted they can get.
If you are a DIY'er or mechanic you have to hustle to get it done. And the filters are tiny while the service intervals are getting longer. As least it still has a dipstick many high end car makers are doing away with them!! Thanks for the comment.
I remember when the first t6 ranger was launch, alot of people doing their own service damage the engine because theyve waited way too long to drain the oil to remove all the old oil out. Maybe if we can crank the engine without actually starting it, we can even lessen the chance of oil starvation since the new oil filter will be filled with new oil before the engine runs.
Yes you could, I typically do this with rebuilt engines or major disassemblies. All the oil galleries etc. would still have oil in the on the most part and its a step that would cause too much grief to the average oil changer but I like your thinking. Cheers
Great video , thanks I wish I've come across your video before I've changed my oil& oil filter because I didn't know about time limit ! But I was lucky I didn't had any problem so far it's running well , cross my fingers ! Thanks again
I think the ten minuets starts from removing the sump plug and draining the sump. the oil filter points in a downward direction and almost self drains .
@@killawattgarage I have a funnel in the filler neck and two five litre containers of oil open and ready to go, got time enough to crack a stubbie (small bottle of beer for non Australians) have a few swigs and get a new washer on the sump plug . As soon as the oil stops trickling I throw the plug in and pour at least one and a half of the five litre oil packs in.
I think we all know Toyota know how to make a reliable engine but they also help themselves by making oil and filter changes really easy. You are more likely to change your own oil and filter if it is a painless task.
Unbelievable that the pump doesn't self-prime. I love new technology, but newer cars are utter piles of shit with some of the worst engineering the world has seen- across the board. No country is exempt.
Only 2 things I'd do differently is to clean out the filter housing lid and to lubricate the seal for the lid as when putting in dry can bind up making it a nightmare who ever has to do it next, being the lids are only plastic the seals bind up that bad that when pressure is put on the top to remove it it can physically crack the lid and there not cheap!. Always replace the sump plug washer as well. Other then that spot on ! I do it the same way also
An aftermarket self priming pump is available, but you loose the variable volume ( ?fuel saving) feature of the factory pump. Also installation of course requires sump removal, not an easy job on these engines, but maybe a good idea for a rebuild.
Definitely would change over during a rebuild and I would like to know how much of a fuel saving these pumps actually give as I have never seen the numbers. Thanks for the comment.
So does the 10 minutes start when you start draining the oil or when you start changing the filter. The problem as I understand it is that the pump cant self prime so you can't let it run dry, changing the filter does leak a bit of oil but is unlikely to empty the oil pump
Oil filter placement and oil pump getting an air lock or something if left to long? I was thinking of buying one of these trucks (second hand of course), might just stick with the ole land cruiser I think. Good clear video though.
Nothing wrong with the Ranger. You just have to get your head around something new. If you stick to the program everything is fine. Not a big deal. People only think it is because they haven't had to do this procedure before.
Translation - Suggestion, in the tank of the oil filter there is a lot of oil burned, you can extract it with a syringe so that it does not contaminate the new oil. Yes you could try to remove the old/burnt oil but remember with this oil change there is not a lot of time. Translation - Sí, podrías intentar eliminar el aceite viejo / quemado, pero recuerda que con este cambio de aceite no hay mucho tiempo. gracias por el comentario
Strange. I worked at a Ford dealer for some time and never heard an issue or something about the risk of no oil pressure if i took longer than 15 minutes changing the oil in one of these Rangers. Maybe its an issue on the 2016 and newer models, I suppose. I mainly worked on 2011-15 models and never had an issue. I always drained all the oil until it barely dripped.
@@killawattgarage first time I've ever seen this. Maybe its only on certain models or only on Mazdas. I talked to my old supervisor about this issue and he said Ford haven't said anything official of such an issue (as of oct. 2018). And they have never a similar problem regarding this on any rangers.
I've heard the PX2 rangers 2015-onwards have apparently solved this issue but I'm not willing to find that out. The PX 2011-14 models are the main ones at risk of pump failure.
Can u drain the oil from the sump and let it drain 1st and while it's draining the oil change your oil filter ?? Or no it has to be oil filter first then drain the oil ?? Thank u so much for shearing you're a champion
I did think about doing this, however my thought was that by doing the filter first and sealing it back up, it would limit the oil draining out of the pump on the sump side as the other end is sealed. I hope that make sense!?! Until I strip down one of these engine and examine the pump and it's inability to reprime itself, I will follow instructions and do what works for me. Let me know how it goes.
Lets hope you never have too. I haven't done this personally but I have heard that if you over fill the sump by about 5 litres it will feed into the pump (essentially priming it) then the extra can be drained out after starting. There is some debate if you should start the engine with it this over full of oil, and I can see both sides of the argument, but you gotta do, what you gotta do! Another option would be to access the oil galleys at the oil filter and either attempt to suck oil though or feed oil back, clearly the engine would not be running. Then attempt to prefill the oil filter as much as possible. This would be really messy but another option. Thanks for the question.
@@killawattgarage appreciate the reply mate. Makes you wonder how they do it at factory. Can't imagine they'd want to over fill every time! Thanks mate. Great videos all the same.
@@liamjenkins82 From the factory when new it would have been filled with a pre assembly lube which is like grease. It wouldn't drain out. That also what you use when rebuilding an engine. Cheers
Just thinking outside the box, obviously the oil is gunna drain out faster if the oil is very watery or the viscosity is very low , , so I’m thinking doing the job when the engine is stone motherless cold might help a little…. Possibly , maybe, although if your oil is ratty with a lot of diesel contaminants, it may not help that much . Another couple of thoughts occur to me , The first one is do not wait for the full service time to elapse to replace the oil, if the recommended service interval is 15000 K’s or 10,000 miles , do it a bit earlier while your oil still has a bit of body to it, and your engine will thank you for the clean oil anyway. My other thought which maybe a bit counter intuitive to getting the best mpg out of the donk , might be to try a grade heavier on the oil . What a shitty idea , often in the past when doing oil changes at home on my cars and trucks , I’d remove the filter and drain plug and go and have lunch to let every bit of dirty oil drain out , I’d put some oil in the filter cartridge or spin on filter and top the motor up with oil, oil light would go out in 2 seconds no problems. My mates son had a ranger , he had no end of issues with it and got rid of it . It’s amazing , you look at some modern build practices from particular brands , and say to yourself WTF where they thinking? I worked at a couple of ford dealerships and a GM dealer as a young bloke , they did not always have the best quality in some models, but most of the time they had common sense designs. Today , omg some of their designs are just shitful !
These engine use a variable output pump, it takes less power from the engine to run the pump therefore increasing fuel economy. The down side it that if the oil fully drains out they can't self prime. Not a problem if you are aware. Thanks for the comment and I hope this answered your question.
You would know because there would be a low oil pressure warning on the dash. If this happen it can be re-primed by overfilling the engine oil then after starting drain out the excess. Thanks for the question.
The scary part is that my local ford dealer has never heard of this,.. and they do this all the time.. but i'm gonna change engine oil myself, and i'm gonna be quick about it.
It's now becoming a well known fact, but to hear that ford dealers are unaware is very scary. I guess to it depends if you are speaking with the 'Service Agent' or the mechanic as to their knowledge. Thanks for the comment.
They need to make engines with two points where you can run the engine and flush the old oil out as you refill just like a trans flush with the two lines sucking in the new oil while the other line is pumping out the old.
Well ......... I am about to make a video of a transmission service on this same vehicle however the transmission has a thermostatic valve that prevents fluid flow until operating temperature. The only way to be able to flush it through the hoses is to pre heat the fluid. Thanks for the comment.
Dear friend, why, by adding the volume required in the manual, be 2.2 or 3.2 l, the measurement with the dipstick indicates level much above di allowed.
Anderson Charles Jahn when the oil is drained not 100% of the oil is removed. The amount of volume listed in the manual is if there was not a drop of oil left in the engine. But there is always still some oil left in the engine even after draining for a long time.
But all authorized dealers place the quantity expressed in the manual, be it Brazil, Thailand, New Zealand, etc. Will the authorized Ford dealerships of various countries have the wrong information? Ford only responds that it is checking the case, but there is no timeframe for such a response. Meanwhile, many Ranger pickups present leakage problems on the crankshaft retainer, and the carter's gasket, and Ford ends up arranging under warranty, that is, they are impaired by the very uncertainty of the volume of oil to be placed in the exchange. Have you already taken this test? For example, it replenished 8.6 liters in a ranger 2.2 engine 2017, like mine, and noticed level far above the maximum?
Anderson Charles Jahn I placed about 9.7L in this one and the level was spot on. Dealers and local garages are going to charge customers for 9.8L(recommended refill amount) but may not use it all and have a few hundred mL left over. With this engine it is possible for the oil to drain out of the oil pump causing no pressure when restarted. Because of this drain times are low and therefore the full refill capacity is not meet.
Killa Watt Garage Does the tip of the pedal have no retention to prevent dry pump? Is not Ford throwing away money, both with unnecessary replacement and maintenance caused by such over-volume? would Ford make this mistake?
Anderson Charles Jahn the oil pump is a variable output design which reduces the load on engine. Ford won’t overfill during each oil change but they will charge you for the recommend refill amount.
@@killawattgarage thank you for the info Sir! I really hate it when I worry whether I’ve tightened the plug enough or too much. Sorry for the late reply.
Just fitted a Catch Can last week and I did record the process. Should have it up in the next week or so. Be sure to sub and hit the notifications bell.
If you got spare time, would it be possible that you’ll make a video on how to replace the airbags on the steering wheel? I find it difficult to release the horn button where the airbag housing is located. 2016 everest 3.2.
But what is the sudden loss of oil pressure issue because of? There must be another issue with the pump also, hard cornering? Low oil? I saw somewhere that oil veins fail.
The design of the pump has multiple vanes that without being submerged/surrounded in oil have no ability to pump. The concern is that if the oil drains out the pump won't self prime and destroy itself. Low oil levels while off roading or fast cornering could create a momentary lack of oil but not enough to fully drain the pump and cause no oil pressure. Thanks for the comment.
Brilliant video mate. Clear, well presented, and you did a great job of emphasizing the 10min time limit. What are your thoughts on using engine oil flush prior to oil change?
I think once the km's starting getting higher or if you are unsure of service history then it's worthwhile. Liqui-Moly make great products and is my first go to for these things. I have used their diesel injector cleaner and can notice the improvement. Thanks for the comment.
Killa Great video mate I have a 2013 3.2ltr ranger xlt and I’ll be changing mine for the first time tomorrow and I’ll get everything prepared first now I know the time can be important!! So glad I watched this today as I had planned to let the sump totally empty out thinking it benefit the motor! I have noticed after ford have changed the oil that it doesn’t always look a clean as one would think and that’s now make sense as they leave a portion of existing oil in there to escape priming! Thanks for sharing 🤙
I worked on models like yours (2011-15 in general) and never had the issue mentioned in the video. I believe the issue is on the 2016 models and newer.
Ford dealer serviced my ranger last. For the life of me I can’t loosen the 27mm oil filter housing with my wrench set. Is this normal? My last resort is to go get a breaker bar
That's a bugger. no it's not normal to be over tight. Be sure that you can easily get a replacement quickly if it breaks. Hopefully it come off with the breaker bar in one piece.
My sparky friend left the oil refill for hours on his Ford Ranger, oil pump picked up immediately, was he lucky or is this less of a problem than what we are told.
great video! any chance you can do a stock suspension installation? my suspension has gone bad and is leaking and i'm struggling to find a video regarding the replacement of stock suspensions on my ranger.
Very poor design if you ask me, especially in this day and age. I can just imagine the build up of sludge over time, especially when warranty is just about to expire. One wonders if this is one of the main reasons why Mazda is going to use the Isuzu engine in the next model update 🤔
I think these days it's all about the warranty period. A number of manufacturers are now offering free scheduled services for 5 years etc. I am sure that the barest minimum will be done and the service intervals will continue to be extended. Thanks for the comment.
I think Ford is a absolutely beautiful product, but overall the design is not what you expect from a company that is supposed to lead the pack. Here in South Africa the owners were struggling with engine failures on the 2.2's, oil change and turbo failures on the 3.2 and gearbox issues that came along from the 1970's and is still a soft spot for Ford. My wife's Fiesta has a failed dmf under 70k km's and it's expensive to fix. I decided I won't quickly buy a Ford again. Thanks for the video, it's a brilliant informative video.
I agree that the design is very bad! A non-self priming oil pump in a 4x4 is a bit ridiculous. I wouldn't worry about sludge build up though. The oil has detergents in for that reason. Engines sludge up when the detergent hits end of life and the oil can no longer suspend the deposits so it settles and clumps. One good way to watch for it is products like Oil-spy or get some chemical filter paper. If you place a drop of oil on it and it leaves a black ring then the detergents have expired!
My brand new Ranger engine only 15.000 K old spun a main and is getting new engine due to this issue and that's with the dealer doing the oil change. They charged me $400 for a $20 filter and 10 litres of oil.
It is recommended that the entire process is done in under 15min. I don't see any issues doing it the way you mentioned as long as you watch the time. Cheers
Thanks for the video. I have a 2013 Mazda BT50 3.2L RWD that has low oil. Can I put in a top up 1L bottle of 5W-30 or 5W-40 oil to get back in the road until I get an oil and filter change done? It does about 8000k a year at present. Thanks Martin
Ok, so if you messed up with time or oil pressure light comes on you need to do the following (copied from a website):
The following is an oil pump priming method for a MAZDA BT50 and Ford Ranger 3.2 Diesel.
Disconnect the battery to prevent you from starting the engine
Place an oil catchment bucket below the engine.
Remove the oil filter
Fill up the engine with 15 (Fifteen) liters of oil
Allow the engine to stand for a full day of 24 Hours
After 24 hours connect a portable compressor to the breather pipe situated on top of the engine.
Seal the air hose to the breather pipe securely.
You can seal the oil dipstick if you wish, but not 100% necessary.
Get an assistant to watch the open oil filter housing for oil coming through
Start pressurizing the system by forcing air through the breather pipe slowly
Do not exceed 0.6 bar of pressure if possible. (High pressure can damage or unsettle any seals)
Low air pressure is enough since you simply want to induce a bit of pressure to push oil into the oil pickup tube
Watch the oil filter housing for any oil pushing through - this is an indicator that the oil pump is full and primed.
Refit oil filter
Reconnect the battery
Crank the engine in short 10-second intervals
Leave the oil cap off and observe the oil pushing up over the hydraulic lifters
Secure oil filter and cap
DO NOT REV THE ENGINE!
DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE!
Drain the engine of the excess oil.
Ensure you do not exceed 10 minutes
Close the sump screw with a new sump washer
Check that the oil pressure light is off (allow 5 seconds)
Remove the oil cap to ensure oil is flowing over the hydraulic lifters
Awesome information THANKS. comment pinned to the top
Done as indicated, great information !!!
After about 20 hours of having filled with 15 liters of oil, it went up to the filter housing without the need for additional pressure.
Good info Gman Cheers !
I have done dozens of these but every one of them my heart breaths a sigh of relief when I see that oil light go out !
Man this has just made me feel confident in doing mine. Especially mechanics want to charge 3 to 400 just to do the oil filter and oil. Im doing mine this weekend and will save over 200 bucks. Absolute legend thanks for the video.
This engine is a passion for me, great torque and a even better sound
Followed your way and successfully did oil change for my Ranger by myself for the first time. I didn’t time it but it was very smooth so I was not worried or in a hurry at all. Thanks for your inspiration.
If you want to avoid the messy oil filter situation, just loose the oil filter a bit then drain the sump, as the oil drains out slowly unscrew the oil filter and most of the oil will drain down. Now you can remove the oil filter without any mess ;)
Hey, Thanks for the comment. I will look into your method. Cheers
I agree. Always a little silly to remove filter before draining sump.
@@rollingredknuckles you do this so that the oil doesn't drain as quickly.. it kinda buys you some breathing time
Thank you! Great video, not too long and straight to the point. No video wobbles and good audio overdub with instructions. Like all things, it looks so easy when you know what you're doing.
thanks mate
Thanks for this video. I did the oil and filter on mine today after watching this a couple of times. Having everything ready I was able to do the oil and filter in under 8 minutes.
Champion effort, well done and thanks for the comment.
Russell Houchin some one had mentioned that it was difficult to change the oil and that you had to remove the tire to get to the filter I’m thinking about getting one myself and that comment had put the ranger out of my mind cuz of that
Russell Houchin but you only have to
Turn the wheel thanks for the vid
One thing he didn't mention is that when you change the oil, just do that task from start to finish. I've heard of a mechanic dropping the oil, then changing the fuel filter while it drained. A fuel filter clip was lost for a considerable time preventing a "start up" to prime the oil pump. Apparently, the procedure is to put 15 litres of oil in the sump, leave over night, then drain 5 litres of oil from the sump before attempting to start the engine.
Good advice, just one thing at a time when it comes to these. I too have heard that overfilling the sump can prime the pump with oil. Definitely would try it if I was caught out!!
I only just bought a ranger, second hand and im glad i spoke to the previous owner regarding oil changers as she is a diesel mechanic. I have let all my other vehicles drain over night, not this beast. 🤔😣
Thank u for sharing I would dump the oil n refill it asap start the engine stop n then change the oil filter than taking the risk
Great point!
I did one today on a 2016 3.2
Sounds safest, good thinking
Ive bookmarked your video on this ,i told a mate about the time limit and he doesnt believe it so im going to show him this video . i came across this when reading about a couple who were caravaning and they found out the hard way .
Show him this too www.aaen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/AUTODATAtiqbiz.pdf
The best Ranger advice and oil change instructions. Saves a seized 3.2 for sure.
Craig Williams thanks mate
Hi, just watched and serviced a 2019 3.2 Ranger for the first time (this was its first service also) Completed the service in under 10 minutes (had it stop watched) and to my horror the LOW OIL PRESSURE warning came on!! Removed the oil filter and it was bone dry! not a drip of oil, confirming that the oil pump definitely drained itself and could no re-prime.
Found another video explaining that they have changed the oil in x2 Rangers before in 5minutes (oil only no filter) and the LOW PRESSURE WARNING comes on. Seems to be that this 10minute time frame is bullshit from FORD/MAZDA.
Would love to know if anyone else has experienced this or heard of this problem, especially if you work in a dealership.
CHEERS. And a great video.
Firstly, I hope you have now primed the pump and have oil pressure!
I have heard accounts of people taking 30mins+ and having no issues which adds confusion to this problem. I have had a number of oil samples tested from these engines and about 1/4 had elevated levels of diesel contamination and have very low viscosity. I believe this is causing the oil pump drainback problem. Would like to hear of others thoughts.......
@@killawattgarage happened to me exactly same as above i had to hand pump oil into the pump at the filter housing screwed it back on and bingo, but im shit scared for next time, the oil was hot old and very thin so i think it drained really fast and the viscosity thing is a major factor
@@RegularBenHur glad you got it sorted. Sometimes the old oil comes out like water it is so thin.
I just did my ford 2016 ranger 3.2 lit change oil. Looks like I spent more than 15 minutes because I missed to re install the little part inside oil filter cap but I re filled the oil in less than 10 minutes. I opened again the oil filter, put that part on the center of the new filter and returned the cap. One click and it started without any warning lights on my dashboard.
@@killawattgarage So would it be better to change the oil + filter when the motor and oil are cold?
Love how detailed your instructions are - that's my goal as well, so there are no questions left. Very good DIY! Also, that funnel is huge! :)
thanks mate
That's what she said😂
The whole process does not have to be done in 10 minutes . Take as long as you like to change the filter , it's the time taken to drain and replace the oil in sump that needs to be done in 10 minutes .
My understanding is that once the filter is opened to the atmosphere oil is free to run back through the oil galleries and potentially drain the pump. I have yet to tear down one of these engine and fully investigate the possible drain back situation so I like to lean on the side of caution and still aim for 10 minutes total time. I have heard stories of people draining all night and having no issues and others doing the process in under 10 and having no oil pressure on start up. Happy to hear other stories.
@@killawattgarage the oil pump I imagine is submerged in oil until the sump is drained then you have 10 minutes to refill and submerge the pump in new oil .
@@deanwitt7903 I have had a good look at the pump location on exploded engine diagrams buts its hard to tell if the pump is fully or partially submerged. If definitely has a pickup tube.
3²3
Nice video thanks for sharing. Just nitpicking here 4:47 better practice if that you can pull the dip stick half out so easier for oil filling in.
Thanks for the tip!
Best, how to for a Ranger oil change. You removed the "fear" factor of doing it myself. A totally differnt mindset needed for the Ranger compared to my ZD30 Patrol. Thanks👍
Glad it helped
Totally random, but i had a ZD30 patrol before my Ranger aswell!
@@SlaterGator
Did you guys like your Patrols after buying the Ranger? I’m kind of considering as one of my options going from a 120 petrol Prado to a ZD30 patrol, but I’m aware those Patrols are old school and have gutless engines. Just after the thoughts from people who owned them as previous 4wds.
@@cliffbooth7075 My Patrol went everywhere and did everything I could've asked for. But yea the ZD30 is completely gutless compared to the 3.2 Ranger. You could look into the Ford Everest 3.2 Titanium. Thats similar to a prado..
Thank you for making this, made my oil change a breeze. It's a quick job if you have everything ready to go.
It's hard to tell after
if your oil filter is leaking from residual oil or not. Oil does drip down in some weird places
which you may have missed with the degreaser cleaning up
Yeah true, good tip
Some things that make it faster for changing the oil if you have a 2 post hoist is to take the car up halfway take only 2 of the scrivets out open the filter housing with a rag inbetween the filter housing and chassis rail to reduce spillage and lift the car up all the way drain the oil and when you bring the car back down replace the filter
(That’s the most efficient way if you are working on more than one a day
Awesome thanks for the tip and the comment.
Sometimes the internal portion of the filter housing comes out with the filter. This may need to be clipped back into filter housing.
It is essential for blocking one end of filter so the oil goes through the filter.
thanks for sharing this tip
This is definitely an oil change where you need to be well organized with zero distraction. Sometimes you have to wonder with the auto engineers; whether they are just being dopey or whether the bean counters got involved with parts decisions? The oil filter seems ridiculously small considering the near 10L of oil required? This is a stress no one needs, i'd be shit scared to even take it to a dealer with 1st year apprentice kid changing my oil, you know how distracted they can get.
If you are a DIY'er or mechanic you have to hustle to get it done. And the filters are tiny while the service intervals are getting longer. As least it still has a dipstick many high end car makers are doing away with them!! Thanks for the comment.
Done my first service myself today since warranty period ended thank you very much for this info made it so much easier
Nice work!
I remember someone at work telling me about this with their Ranger, couldn't believe it. Just thought about it randomly tonight and looked it up. Wow.
As long as you are aware it's not a problem. Just work fast. Cheers
Thanks mate! The only thing I'd add is the size of the oil filter socket - which is 27mm
Awesome thanks.
the 10 minutes starts when you drain the oil, you can take as long as you want changing the filter if you do it before draining the oil
Best to have a whole filter unit ready. Then clean the old one for next service.
thanks for the comment
I remember when the first t6 ranger was launch, alot of people doing their own service damage the engine because theyve waited way too long to drain the oil to remove all the old oil out. Maybe if we can crank the engine without actually starting it, we can even lessen the chance of oil starvation since the new oil filter will be filled with new oil before the engine runs.
Yes you could, I typically do this with rebuilt engines or major disassemblies. All the oil galleries etc. would still have oil in the on the most part and its a step that would cause too much grief to the average oil changer but I like your thinking. Cheers
Great video , thanks
I wish I've come across your video before I've changed my oil& oil filter because I didn't know about time limit !
But I was lucky I didn't had any problem so far it's running well , cross my fingers !
Thanks again
Just saw you comment now, sorry for the delay. Thanks for the comment. Cheers.
Thanks brother I appreciate all your videos. Super helpful. I replaced the lead frame up in the trans and did an oil change this weekend.
Cheers!
I like those big funnels. I have a big one like that, but it’s a different shape and it’s also the same color too.
I love 'em too. Thanks for the comment
I think the ten minuets starts from removing the sump plug and draining the sump. the oil filter points in a downward direction and almost self drains .
As long as it doesn't drain while you go and have a drink and you just get in and do it all relatively quickly she'll be fine.
@@killawattgarage I have a funnel in the filler neck and two five litre containers of oil open and ready to go, got time enough to crack a stubbie (small bottle of beer for non Australians) have a few swigs and get a new washer on the sump plug . As soon as the oil stops trickling I throw the plug in and pour at least one and a half of the five litre oil packs in.
@@richardcrowell284 Cheers, sounds like you got it sorted.
I think we all know Toyota know how to make a reliable engine but they also help themselves by making oil and filter changes really easy.
You are more likely to change your own oil and filter if it is a painless task.
Couldn't agree more.
Unbelievable that the pump doesn't self-prime. I love new technology, but newer cars are utter piles of shit with some of the worst engineering the world has seen- across the board. No country is exempt.
Agreed! Thanks for the comment.
Can confirm. My new transit custom has been back to Fords 5 times so far with faults. Will defo be getting rid of it before the warranty is up!
Why not change the flush/ remove the oil first before before changing the oil filter?
Awesome video. Cost $400 NZD for an oil change these days for 8mins of work🤦♂️
Great point!
Only 2 things I'd do differently is to clean out the filter housing lid and to lubricate the seal for the lid as when putting in dry can bind up making it a nightmare who ever has to do it next, being the lids are only plastic the seals bind up that bad that when pressure is put on the top to remove it it can physically crack the lid and there not cheap!. Always replace the sump plug washer as well. Other then that spot on ! I do it the same way also
An aftermarket self priming pump is available, but you loose the variable volume ( ?fuel saving) feature of the factory pump. Also installation of course requires sump removal, not an easy job on these engines, but maybe a good idea for a rebuild.
Definitely would change over during a rebuild and I would like to know how much of a fuel saving these pumps actually give as I have never seen the numbers. Thanks for the comment.
great video ...This help me prep everything prior and then did complete change in 6 mins flat ...from start to finish with engine running
Very well edited!
That oil filter location seems pretty annoying.
thanks mate
Cars Simplified ss
Sure is a stupid location. Sam as the 2.2 engine.
GOOD
Could I drain the oil first? while thats draining I could change the oil filter it would speed things up wouldn't it?
Excellent video..did you jack the van up ?
Hello. Please post also video on how to clean EGR, throttle body on Ford ranger. Thanks
Will add it the to list
So does the 10 minutes start when you start draining the oil or when you start changing the filter. The problem as I understand it is that the pump cant self prime so you can't let it run dry, changing the filter does leak a bit of oil but is unlikely to empty the oil pump
This is the great tutorial video about oil change on ranger. Thank you sir! From malaysia.
jack johnson Be sure to check out my video on the cabin filter and fuel filter change as well
Oil filter placement and oil pump getting an air lock or something if left to long? I was thinking of buying one of these trucks (second hand of course), might just stick with the ole land cruiser I think. Good clear video though.
Disappointingly it has put a few people off. Thanks for the comment.
Stick with the land cruiser if you haven't changed already. You'll save money in the long run.
Nothing wrong with the Ranger. You just have to get your head around something new. If you stick to the program everything is fine. Not a big deal. People only think it is because they haven't had to do this procedure before.
Thanks for the BT 50 oil change feature. Very well done👍
Glad to help. Thanks for the comment.
Sugerencia, en el deposito del filtro de aceite queda bastante aceite quemado, puedes extraerlo con una geringa para que no contamime el aceite nuevo.
Translation - Suggestion, in the tank of the oil filter there is a lot of oil burned, you can extract it with a syringe so that it does not contaminate the new oil.
Yes you could try to remove the old/burnt oil but remember with this oil change there is not a lot of time.
Translation - Sí, podrías intentar eliminar el aceite viejo / quemado, pero recuerda que con este cambio de aceite no hay mucho tiempo. gracias por el comentario
Great video! We didn't have the diesel option on the Rangers over here in the US. Very well done video and audio quality! :)
thanks for the comment and checking out my video.
I wonder how to re prime the system of u have stuffed up the oil change that would be an interesting topic
you can overfill the oil then drain excess after starting or hand pump oil into the oil pump through the filter housing.
Great vid mate, out of warranty period soon so going to start servicing myself. Cheers!
Cheers glad it helped.
The dealers hardly change your oil in the warranty period. I know mechanics that work at dealerships unfortunately.
Thanks for the detailed instructions, can you please tell us what is the size of the filter?
Strange. I worked at a Ford dealer for some time and never heard an issue or something about the risk of no oil pressure if i took longer than 15 minutes changing the oil in one of these Rangers. Maybe its an issue on the 2016 and newer models, I suppose. I mainly worked on 2011-15 models and never had an issue. I always drained all the oil until it barely dripped.
www.aaen.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/AUTODATAtiqbiz.pdf
@@killawattgarage first time I've ever seen this. Maybe its only on certain models or only on Mazdas. I talked to my old supervisor about this issue and he said Ford haven't said anything official of such an issue (as of oct. 2018). And they have never a similar problem regarding this on any rangers.
I've heard the PX2 rangers 2015-onwards have apparently solved this issue but I'm not willing to find that out. The PX 2011-14 models are the main ones at risk of pump failure.
Can u drain the oil from the sump and let it drain 1st and while it's draining the oil change your oil filter ?? Or no it has to be oil filter first then drain the oil ??
Thank u so much for shearing you're a champion
I did think about doing this, however my thought was that by doing the filter first and sealing it back up, it would limit the oil draining out of the pump on the sump side as the other end is sealed. I hope that make sense!?! Until I strip down one of these engine and examine the pump and it's inability to reprime itself, I will follow instructions and do what works for me. Let me know how it goes.
i own a bt50 with same engine thanks for showing how to change the oil yeah seal it back up seems the go
tunastrike11 glad to help
Can you do a video on how to bleed the oil pump ? Etc.. when you take longer than 15mins to do service. Thank you
Thanks a million, everytime I change oil on my bt50 thanks you🙏🙏
no problem
Thak you for sharing. Do you have a video how to remove the rear driveshaft to refil the grease?
Not yet, will add it to the list of video's to make.
How would you go about re priming if you had let it go to long or how do they do it first time!
Very imformative video. I have the bt50 in aus.
Lets hope you never have too. I haven't done this personally but I have heard that if you over fill the sump by about 5 litres it will feed into the pump (essentially priming it) then the extra can be drained out after starting. There is some debate if you should start the engine with it this over full of oil, and I can see both sides of the argument, but you gotta do, what you gotta do! Another option would be to access the oil galleys at the oil filter and either attempt to suck oil though or feed oil back, clearly the engine would not be running. Then attempt to prefill the oil filter as much as possible. This would be really messy but another option. Thanks for the question.
@@killawattgarage appreciate the reply mate. Makes you wonder how they do it at factory. Can't imagine they'd want to over fill every time!
Thanks mate. Great videos all the same.
@@liamjenkins82 From the factory when new it would have been filled with a pre assembly lube which is like grease. It wouldn't drain out. That also what you use when rebuilding an engine. Cheers
@@killawattgarage yeah that makes sense. Thanks.
Just thinking outside the box, obviously the oil is gunna drain out faster if the oil is very watery or the viscosity is very low , , so I’m thinking doing the job when the engine is stone motherless cold might help a little…. Possibly , maybe, although if your oil is ratty with a lot of diesel contaminants, it may not help that much .
Another couple of thoughts occur to me ,
The first one is do not wait for the full service time to elapse to replace the oil, if the recommended service interval is 15000 K’s or 10,000 miles , do it a bit earlier while your oil still has a bit of body to it, and your engine will thank you for the clean oil anyway.
My other thought which maybe a bit counter intuitive to getting the best mpg out of the donk , might be to try a grade heavier on the oil .
What a shitty idea , often in the past when doing oil changes at home on my cars and trucks , I’d remove the filter and drain plug and go and have lunch to let every bit of dirty oil drain out , I’d put some oil in the filter cartridge or spin on filter and top the motor up with oil, oil light would go out in 2 seconds no problems.
My mates son had a ranger , he had no end of issues with it and got rid of it .
It’s amazing , you look at some modern build practices from particular brands , and say to yourself WTF where they thinking?
I worked at a couple of ford dealerships and a GM dealer as a young bloke , they did not always have the best quality in some models, but most of the time they had common sense designs.
Today , omg some of their designs are just shitful !
Just done mine and stamped my book today after owning it for 3 weeks, noticed it didnt have a sump guard on..... all done in 8 minutes though 🙂
Great work! Interesting that the sump guard is missing?? Thanks for the comment.
why the pump dont self prime? every other engine the pump just work.
These engine use a variable output pump, it takes less power from the engine to run the pump therefore increasing fuel economy. The down side it that if the oil fully drains out they can't self prime. Not a problem if you are aware. Thanks for the comment and I hope this answered your question.
@@killawattgarage put some sort of pressure valve on it so it wont fully drain out , but will flow under operating conditions .
Redzone 2119 it’s a vane pump like a hydraulic pump or power steering pump
Nice mate video very clear. Is it ok to have only the front wheels on ramps for the whole process?
Yes, absolutely
@@killawattgarage Thanks for reply 👍
Never heard of this on any vehicle before, thanks for upload, and great vid!, not sure if I will buy a vehicle with this engine!
It's not an issue if you know about it. Thanks for the comment.
Rover V8 engine had similar issues ! If it wouldn’t prime you had to remove the sump and pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly.
@@AJ-qn6gd dropping the sump on one of these would be a real pain.
how would you know that the oil pump needs to be primed and how to do it?
You would know because there would be a low oil pressure warning on the dash. If this happen it can be re-primed by overfilling the engine oil then after starting drain out the excess. Thanks for the question.
@@killawattgarage thanks! Looks like i did it in time then. Is it also true that you change your fluid every 100km?
Because it's in the owners manual if you care to read it.
Good video I’ve already took off the filter not drained the oil out of sump been more than 10 minutes am i in trouble
Are you able to do a vid. for the Px ranger 2.2lt 4x4. Would be most helpful. cheers.
Sorry just saw your comment now. Will add it to the list.
The scary part is that my local ford dealer has never heard of this,.. and they do this all the time.. but i'm gonna change engine oil myself, and i'm gonna be quick about it.
It's now becoming a well known fact, but to hear that ford dealers are unaware is very scary. I guess to it depends if you are speaking with the 'Service Agent' or the mechanic as to their knowledge. Thanks for the comment.
It's in the owners manual so your dealer isn't very bright. Change dealerships
Should do a video on diff oils and transfer case oils on a px 1 ranger
Got this th-cam.com/video/SBBckqmbvPs/w-d-xo.html and this th-cam.com/video/FkaEhwMZFgo/w-d-xo.html which should help out.
Is this the same procedure with the 2.2 four cylinder
Yep
@@killawattgarage Ok 👍
They need to make engines with two points where you can run the engine and flush the old oil out as you refill just like a trans flush with the two lines sucking in the new oil while the other line is pumping out the old.
Well ......... I am about to make a video of a transmission service on this same vehicle however the transmission has a thermostatic valve that prevents fluid flow until operating temperature. The only way to be able to flush it through the hoses is to pre heat the fluid. Thanks for the comment.
Dear friend, why, by adding the volume required in the manual, be 2.2 or 3.2 l, the measurement with the dipstick indicates level much above di allowed.
Anderson Charles Jahn when the oil is drained not 100% of the oil is removed. The amount of volume listed in the manual is if there was not a drop of oil left in the engine. But there is always still some oil left in the engine even after draining for a long time.
But all authorized dealers place the quantity expressed in the manual, be it Brazil, Thailand, New Zealand, etc. Will the authorized Ford dealerships of various countries have the wrong information?
Ford only responds that it is checking the case, but there is no timeframe for such a response.
Meanwhile, many Ranger pickups present leakage problems on the crankshaft retainer, and the carter's gasket, and Ford ends up arranging under warranty, that is, they are impaired by the very uncertainty of the volume of oil to be placed in the exchange.
Have you already taken this test? For example, it replenished 8.6 liters in a ranger 2.2 engine 2017, like mine, and noticed level far above the maximum?
Anderson Charles Jahn I placed about 9.7L in this one and the level was spot on. Dealers and local garages are going to charge customers for 9.8L(recommended refill amount) but may not use it all and have a few hundred mL left over. With this engine it is possible for the oil to drain out of the oil pump causing no pressure when restarted. Because of this drain times are low and therefore the full refill capacity is not meet.
Killa Watt Garage Does the tip of the pedal have no retention to prevent dry pump? Is not Ford throwing away money, both with unnecessary replacement and maintenance caused by such over-volume? would Ford make this mistake?
Anderson Charles Jahn the oil pump is a variable output design which reduces the load on engine. Ford won’t overfill during each oil change but they will charge you for the recommend refill amount.
Hello Sir, can you please tell me the torque required for tightening of the filter cover and the sump plug?
Torque Spec: Filter housing 25.5Nm, Sump plug 20-30 Nm
@@killawattgarage thank you for the info Sir! I really hate it when I worry whether I’ve tightened the plug enough or too much. Sorry for the late reply.
How many liters to use in 3.2 engine.. thanks for your video very informative.. greetings from Philiipines
Great camera work and very informative. Any vids on install of oil catch can or extra diesel filter?
Just fitted a Catch Can last week and I did record the process. Should have it up in the next week or so. Be sure to sub and hit the notifications bell.
If you got spare time, would it be possible that you’ll make a video on how to replace the airbags on the steering wheel? I find it difficult to release the horn button where the airbag housing is located. 2016 everest 3.2.
I will have a look.
But what is the sudden loss of oil pressure issue because of? There must be another issue with the pump also, hard cornering? Low oil? I saw somewhere that oil veins fail.
The design of the pump has multiple vanes that without being submerged/surrounded in oil have no ability to pump. The concern is that if the oil drains out the pump won't self prime and destroy itself. Low oil levels while off roading or fast cornering could create a momentary lack of oil but not enough to fully drain the pump and cause no oil pressure. Thanks for the comment.
I heard about this a while ago and glad i stumbled on your vid as some peps didnt believe me
I image it will catch plenty of owners out in the future who will be unaware. Thanks for the comment and spread the word.
Very good Sir for your instructions .. many thanks
happy to help
Since there is a 10 minute window., Why not change filter, then run the engine, then drain and replace oil ? Small risk vs risk of no oil in oil pump.
Brilliant video mate. Clear, well presented, and you did a great job of emphasizing the 10min time limit. What are your thoughts on using engine oil flush prior to oil change?
I think once the km's starting getting higher or if you are unsure of service history then it's worthwhile. Liqui-Moly make great products and is my first go to for these things. I have used their diesel injector cleaner and can notice the improvement. Thanks for the comment.
ted waetford I reckon it would almost be mandatory on these engines, especially once they reach the 100,000km mark
Can you do a video on how to flush and replace radiator coolant on a Ford Ranger 2014 diesel 2.2 or similar models
Will have a video up in the next week or so. What this space.
Killa Great video mate I have a 2013 3.2ltr ranger xlt and I’ll be changing mine for the first time tomorrow and I’ll get everything prepared first now I know the time can be important!! So glad I watched this today as I had planned to let the sump totally empty out thinking it benefit the motor! I have noticed after ford have changed the oil that it doesn’t always look a clean as one would think and that’s now make sense as they leave a portion of existing oil in there to escape priming! Thanks for sharing 🤙
I worked on models like yours (2011-15 in general) and never had the issue mentioned in the video. I believe the issue is on the 2016 models and newer.
Ford dealer serviced my ranger last. For the life of me I can’t loosen the 27mm oil filter housing with my wrench set. Is this normal? My last resort is to go get a breaker bar
That's a bugger. no it's not normal to be over tight. Be sure that you can easily get a replacement quickly if it breaks. Hopefully it come off with the breaker bar in one piece.
My sparky friend left the oil refill for hours on his Ford Ranger, oil pump picked up immediately, was he lucky or is this less of a problem than what we are told.
Not sure. Until I have pulled a oil pump out of one of these I will listen to the warnings.
great video! any chance you can do a stock suspension installation? my suspension has gone bad and is leaking and i'm struggling to find a video regarding the replacement of stock suspensions on my ranger.
Thanks for the request. If I get the chance I will record it.
Very poor design if you ask me, especially in this day and age. I can just imagine the build up of sludge over time, especially when warranty is just about to expire. One wonders if this is one of the main reasons why Mazda is going to use the Isuzu engine in the next model update 🤔
I think these days it's all about the warranty period. A number of manufacturers are now offering free scheduled services for 5 years etc. I am sure that the barest minimum will be done and the service intervals will continue to be extended. Thanks for the comment.
I think Ford is a absolutely beautiful product, but overall the design is not what you expect from a company that is supposed to lead the pack. Here in South Africa the owners were struggling with engine failures on the 2.2's, oil change and turbo failures on the 3.2 and gearbox issues that came along from the 1970's and is still a soft spot for Ford. My wife's Fiesta has a failed dmf under 70k km's and it's expensive to fix. I decided I won't quickly buy a Ford again. Thanks for the video, it's a brilliant informative video.
@@GustavTessa Thanks for your comments.
I agree that the design is very bad! A non-self priming oil pump in a 4x4 is a bit ridiculous. I wouldn't worry about sludge build up though. The oil has detergents in for that reason. Engines sludge up when the detergent hits end of life and the oil can no longer suspend the deposits so it settles and clumps. One good way to watch for it is products like Oil-spy or get some chemical filter paper. If you place a drop of oil on it and it leaves a black ring then the detergents have expired!
Typical ford crap
My brand new Ranger engine only 15.000 K old spun a main and is getting new engine due to this issue and that's with the dealer doing the oil change. They charged me $400 for a $20 filter and 10 litres of oil.
Sorry to hear about that bad news, glad its getting sorted. Be careful when doing these oil changes.
Hi man when you doing more videos on these like the transmission fluid
Hi do you know how to remove ford ranger engine up plastic cover?
Yes, it simply pulls up and off.
Killa Watt Garage is there a point we should pull it?
@@pasindulakshan9038 Start at the front sides.
Can you drain the oil first to allow the sump to drain that bit longer while you are changing the filter ?
It is recommended that the entire process is done in under 15min. I don't see any issues doing it the way you mentioned as long as you watch the time. Cheers
Hi do you have a video on changing brake fluid in a ford Ranger ?
Not yet but will we look to make one
great vid. quick question.. i noticed you mentioned that the new oil is "dark and black"... is that normal?
Yes Diesel engine oil blackens very quickly and its colour is not an indication of age of service.
thanks! by the way, is the 10-15min change duration applicable as well to the 2.2L ford diesel engine?
Thanks for the video. I have a 2013 Mazda BT50 3.2L RWD that has low oil. Can I put in a top up 1L bottle of 5W-30 or 5W-40 oil to get back in the road until I get an oil and filter change done? It does about 8000k a year at present. Thanks Martin
Is the time limit from when you removed the filter or the sump plug?
Allizdog I time it from when I remove the filter cap
Hello, why is it necessary to wait 24 hours before carrying out the rest of the procedure?
great video. whats the chances of doing the transmission?
Dave Work I have had a few requests, so as soon as I get the opportunity to record one I will make it happen. Should be soon. Thanks for watching.
Thanks' for such an informative video you have made it look so easy to do.
thanks for watching and the comment.
Do you have a video of the coolant change?
Not yet, will add it the the list.
@@killawattgarage thanks be waiting for that
Can you empty and refill the oil, then do a filter change?