The EGR failed on my Amarok. Dumped all the water out the exhaust system.... so there's no visible evidence your radiator is been sucked dry .... Thankfully I was warned by dashboard alarm that shit was turning south and my coolant level was low. Naturally VW nz were total tossers about the whole thing, Acted shocked and surprised that a 40,000 km vehicle had shit itself so badly and proceeded to charge me a fortune to fix it.(outside warranty ) A year later the gearbox failed. Drove it to ford.... Traded it on a new 3.2 Ranger and haven't looked back. Keep up the great work John.
Series 1 PX manual was full of cheap Chinese bearings.....huge failure rate...I know I had one...6 years of trouble free car.....then absolute detest for the lemon... NX pajero....never looked back
I wouldn’t be surprised if some of these comments like ‘I’ve had my Isuzu for ten years, towed max gvm/gcm everday and not a problem’ are people employed by the company to spruik those lies in comment sections on various platforms. Really looking forward to my hearing at VCAT next month and putting it out there on the webs. 5 years ownership on my Dmax has cost $25,000 in repairs and Isuzu refused to cover $20k under warranty… Serviced every 10,000km.
Done 150k in my v80 ldv van driven were I probably shouldn't. After some flood water that did cost me about 6k. But other than that. The paper Dragon van isn't that bad. Compared to over priced rebadged Chinese vehicles.
Great advice on the EGR coolers John. In the heavy earthmoving world we see 2 main causes of EGR cooler failures. 1 is air pockets in the cooler when the coolant is re placed this causes the internals to melt down and can be avoided by only vacuum filling the cooling system. 2 is vibration causing the internals to crack usually after higher periods of service, replace before failure is the only fix we have found for this one and OEM's who have re designed the cooler. 👍
Ford Ranger 3.2 is a TERRIBLE truck dobt own but work on them a lot The egr valve is a poor design as a small bearing seizes and falls out Replacing the bearing is possible but the angle you refit the egr is very important
Hi John, A few Months ago a couple from NSW were driving near Harcourt Vic, With their 26Ft aluminum shitwah on tow. Going up hill on a blind corner the engine went poopy in pants. I towed them to Castlemaine. I gave them some contact numbers in Bendigo, where I knew they would be helped without theft. anyway they decided to have the car taken back home. When I left I said if you have time ring me and let me know what the issue was. They rang me a few weeks later. $6000.00 for the tow back to Sydney. (not by us) and $15,000.00 for a short motor changeover. The EGR had failed. No water no oil going up hill under load, and no warning. That was really good advice you gave to change the EGR at 80,000 k's before the thing shits itself. Thats the sort of info they should (but wont) put in the service manual. Like.. Second set of tyres change the EGR. 🙂 Regards Peter. Williams Towing Bendigo.
Getting mine replaced under warranty 75000Km. I've kept an eye on the oil, coolant & etc since new. I noticed in the past month the reservoir was dropping about 5ml per fortnight, I took it in for it's 75k service & mentioned it to my dealer. When I picked the car up they booked me in for a replacement EGR cooler under warranty no questions asked.
My 2013 BT50 (same motor) lasted until just over 300,000 kms before the EGR cooler started to lose coolant. I waited 9 months for a new Hilux , so it was check every week the coolant level and top up. In the last month before launching it off to the dealer as a trade in it was losing 1 litre a week of coolant. Happy Days .
The best thing to do if you have a 3.2 ranger or bt50 regardless if your EGR cooler has failed or not is to simply delete it from the powertrain. Cut it out like a cancer, a bad appendix, or tonsils. It's a crap component that does more harm than good. I blocked the EGR cooler off, bypassed the coolant lines, and also blocked off my egr valve on my 2014 BT50 when I noticed it slowly started losing coolant. I've never looked back since.
@@positivepete4265 Honestly, if you're going to the effort of replacing it as a precaution you're better of eliminating it altogether. The reason is 1. it's a laborious task to fix and 2. Most rangers/bt50's that have popped engines are because of failed egr coolers or buggered injectors, mostly the former. From a financial, and reliability perspective it's worth doing. You have to determine if emissions compliance is worth more than the reliability of your vehicle. For me it's not.
@@turbostyler 100% not worth more, considering we're not Europe either. Lol. So if I'm on the market for a used ranger you reckon first thing to be safe is delete the egr
@@positivepete4265 I would. I think with the later models you program the ecu to not throw codes if you block the egr. But it's also important to bypass the coolant lines as well to prevent any coolant loss from any corrosion that should occur within the EGR cooler.
I had egr bloked and car tuned now i loose power intermitantly some time no code no engine cheque light turnt engine of for 5 turn it back on and its good to go
Hi John, I've really been enjoying your more recent TH-cam videos. They seem much more technical and give you the opportunity to use your deep engineering knowledge and understanding to clear up some of the motor vehicle misconceptions many of us have. Entertaining and educational. Thanks John.
Thanks John. Mine just went on my Everest at 130k. I was mislead by my mechanic telling me the massive white smoke was a diesel filter burn off. I kept loosing coolant and found someone who diagnosed it straight away. Keeping fingers crossed I haven't done a head gasket. Cheers Ron
I worked for a company that ran Isuzu, and everyone without fail, the AC failed. Some had turbo issues. Nearly all the Auto gearboxes were problematic. The dealer tried to help but basically the standard answer from IUA was piss off that's not warranty.
that's not good for business. its normally the dealers that are the problem. for comparison i brought new a 2015 vw amarok, 1st service i got a headlight (made by hella) replaced because high beam was pointing up in the trees. 2nd service 30k i let them know reverse gear had a humming noise. (ZF 8 speed auto, common issue in bmw as well) the service manager said "there wont be anything wrong with that gearbox" I said all im asking you to do is put a apprentice mechanic inside the ute, lift it up on the hoist and the head mechanic will tell him to put in in reverse and apply and release the brakes to hear the noise, if its noise A no issue, noise B the gearbox will go back to ZF. the service manager said "well it this needs a gearbox i want in done in our workshop" rang me up an hour later and said yes in needs a gearbox and it will be here tomorrow if your willing to leave the ute. I said ill book it in a few weeks time as i know its not going to fail but i could in a years time. then at 3 years 200k i asked about the headlight that was previously replaced as its glass (plastic) was cracking badly (looked like it was smashed at night) I said Its no longer roadworthy. they had a look at said yes you should of said something earlier. so they ended up replacing both headlight with the updated units (non hella). better lights and they still look new 4 years later. they also replaced the VW badge because it was pealing at the same time. but I did have 1 warranty issue never fixed and that was a small part of the front bumper lost its paint the 1st time i washed it, its never gotten worse but it would of been nice to get it fixed. the ute has never broken down or had any recalls.
I drive a 2016 ranger since new, now with 215000kms, been loaded to GVM since day one, many times at 6+tons with trailer on. Been chipped since 15000kms. Only issues a set of glow pugs and an egt sensor. ALWAYS has min 20 min warm up in driveway before the wheels turn. Flawless and eats hiluxes for breakfast!
@@abyssmanur3965 All depends on your interpretation of excessive idling. For me 20 min during warm up is nothing in the grand scheme. Thermal shock on a cold engine is more a concern in my book because its a fully loaded to gvm vehicle all the time, there is no light load warm up driving option. My house is 30 seconds from a 100 kph speed region. Then it is high power settings during most driving. Glazing doesn't happen in just a few minutes.
@@kiwidiesel I have a downhill run of about 100 m then uphill grade of about 20⁰ for 250 m, my 2010 Colorado takes 4-5 km to get to safe temp where exhaust note changes and motor sounds 'happy'! So this first hundred metres kills it on a cold start, but letting it idle to warm up takes forever, like 30-40mins to see a change on the temp gauge. So yes, I'll start her up while I have my last coffee before work!
@@abyssmanur3965 yeah I agree you may not see a change in the temp gauge but most gauges dont show a reading until approx 40-50 degrees but it letting things run until you have guzzled that coffee back is sufficient. I have rebuilt many diesel engines from 4 litre up to 16 litre and the only ones that have ever showed cylinder glazing were well into the one million kms range so its not a thing to worry about from what I have seen.
Hi John I have had 2 engine failures with EGR’s on my Rangers. The first one was a 2.2 2014 XLS, it had 150,000 on it! The second one was with my current 2018 FX4 3.2 with 150,000. As a FORD man this devastated me but as you said, and the tow truck driver also said, all utes are having these troubles because of the emission laws Australia has. FORD IN IPSWICH Qld we’re great about the second engine failure and replaced my engine free, I will now be monitoring and regular egr cleaning and servicing this latest engine!
I was using 2018 bt50 xtr daily for work and noticing the cooler got lesser periodically. Been following the forum and found its one of probable symptoms for egr cooler failure. After 42,000km ended up trade it in for a new toyota van bcos the dealer will to pay the same price bought the ute 3 years ago. Had fun with it though..
The only issue I've had with my Isuzu Dmax is the battery was losing voltage right on the three year mark,and needed to be replaced,but before it did start to cause a problem the mechanic at the dealer told me your battery is at 85% when I had it in for a service.
I read this on Cars Guide; 'I thought I'd tell you about another problem with the Ford Ranger. The cooler for the EGR valve fails, and when it does it pumps water into the motor and the conrods bend under the force. We had one in our workshop recently. We fitted a new cooler with the engine rebuild, and that also failed in a few weeks. Luckily we caught it this time, which saved the motor.'
the cooling system is under pressure when hot, the EGR gets a internal crack, it might be fine whilist your driving but let it set for 15 or more min the coolant builds up and once you restart it ends up in the combustion chamber and its game over
A few years ago the company I used to work for had a Mazda BT-50 with the 2 litre engine. It suffered the EGR cooler blowout at about 70000km. The engine was rebuilt under warranty but the replacement EGR cooler failed 30000km later. It's simply a bad design and why Ford persist with it is beyond comprehension.
@@geoffreythurtell8761 the issue is the tight emission regulations put extrema rapid heat fluctuations on egr coolers. so any slight manufacturing tolerance issue will eventually show up
@@geoffreythurtell8761 they should have developed it better in the first place. Poor QC... but remember this is a company that cuts cost by downgrading wiring, aluminum hoses/electrical connectors to plastic. The problem is if they redesign the cooler they have to issue a recall on all models currently out and fork up the $ to replace. They are never going to do that. They are going to do the cheapest fix even if that fix has to be done 3-4 times per car life and put some money into redesign on next model. As stupid as it is, it's the automotive industry today.
In the UK it's either EGR failure or oil pump failure from about 50k miles that kills the 2.2 and 3.2 the most. Many of us here are still driving the earlier Mazda-built Ford Rangers which are generally excellent and manage 200k miles without issue.
The mind boggles that oil pumps fail at 50k? I will stick with my Japanese imported Land Cruiser, 180'000 miles and still has good oil pressure. Ford never cease to amaze me that they seem to f*ck up basic components that where perfected decades ago. Having said that, what is Ford stating for oil changes on the Ranger.
@@harveysmith100my landcruiser has 395,000 and I’ve had it for 25 years. Starts in half a crank in heat or snow. Full oil pressure. They built them to last and more importantly, reliable and maintainable
I've done 240,000 in my ranger and have only had to a alternator, and the egr started to leave water a month or so ago. I tow a car trailer 2 to 3 times a week doin 500k round trips loaded its been a pretty solid bus
John. Sometimes you post some silly videos and some are excellent. This one is a best presented video. In laymen terms you gave an explanation as to just what a EGR is, how it works and how it fails plus what the failure then results in, all given with no nonsense. Equally your interpretation of the Isuzu in that as they sell a lot less vehicles the pool of opinions is also much smaller. Thank you.
Hi John, I think you have missed he real problem with the EGR in the Ranger. When the cooler fails the coolant goes into the turbo (not onto the ground) and many things can happen, head gaskets and bent rods to name but two.
coolant flows into the combustion chamber causing hydrostatic lock.. the force behind the pistons moving upward can bend connecting rods, crack the crankshaft, cause fractures in the cylinder walls, etc.
Here in Indonesia I have a Ford Everest with the 2.5 TDCI engine from 2007. No EGR cooler. Still runs okay. The only real issue with it is that a combination of my driving habits, crappy roads and torsion bar front suspension is hard on ball joints.
It still amazes me, after all your videos about similar subjects, people still insist on pushing their vehicles to the limit and don't expect a consequence. Absolutely astonishing considering, even in most operators manuals I have ever read, the manufacturer actually states that any extra stress requires more frequent maintenance. It's alarming people don't understand such a basic principal.
Yep had that failed at 125km. Lucky I caught it as I noticed the coolant level was dropping really quickly. Ford replaced it for free even it was out of warranty
Just switch the stupid EGR off with a harness module that plugs into the MAF sensor. I did it,and my 2012 BT 50 loves it. Do this and check how clean the engine oil stays after you change it. All the EGR gunk stays out of your intake. I dont buy the volumetric jibber. In my books there is no way hot and dirty exhaust should go into your inlet manifold. Give your whole intake system a good clean, including the intercooler.I binned the poxy plastic Ford one,and fitted a bigger tig welded aluminum unit.Still has original turbo.Running 3inch exhaust from turbo. Engine now keeps making power under load,before it would fall away. Just my personal experience owning the vehicle 10 years.
@@jasonh6475 can you explain how the egr cooler can still fail "eventually" even with a delete module connected. Since it is "Thermal stress - EGR coolers can exhibit cracking or warping thanks to repeated cycling of extreme temperatures. The cooler is subjected to exhaust gas which can reach 800°C which is then cooled down to around 200°C. Over time it can damage the cooler and cause leaks or complete failure. The egr delete module cable stops those heat cycles .
@@Wdthyfdo even though the EGR isn’t cycling anymore the element or core is still operating as per usual with exposure to exhaust gas and coolant and will fail as per usual.
Take that module out ASAP all it does is tell the intake temp it's at 0° all the time so the egr valve stayes closed thinking it's running cold, your car will run rich, use more fuel and won't be able to tell u if there is a failure, just blank it and turn off the program via re mapping
Who can remember the first Isuzu KB 250/280's that came out about twenty years ago? Those noisy clacking ute's. We've got several of those here in South Africa still running happily with more than a million km's on the odo... Those were the days. You could fix and rebuild that engine with ease as well. Pump and injectors type ☺☺☺👍👍👍
Yeah,they were truck engines,simple and rugged that Isuzu built,now everyone wants a 12" screen,I thought supposed to be driving not distracted by a bloody TV in the thing...
@@geoffbell166 100 % agree. And to boot it all most of those in car entertainment systems are poor quality as well. I just mount an Android tablet on my dashboard if I really need a big screen to navigate. Which is rather seldom. Music from my stereo system in the car is way better on the open road as well, as my eyes can be on the road. Where they should be.
Dumb question: If it's bad to downshift on an automatic ("brake pads are cheaper than transmissions"), what do paddle shifters do differently (other than run through the higher speeds)?
@@peterbrowning1251 Yeah my Prado has radar cruise control and often when it closes in on a slower vehicle it will first drop a gear to slow down before it starts braking.
modern auto's this is not a problem, old ones can overheat. if the torque converter stays locked then it wont be an issue. lots of Toyotas even newer ones unlock the torque converter as soon as you take your foot off the throttle
Every second person I know owns a diesel ute/dual cab of one brand or another the only ones that have had motors blow up have been Ford's ( 3 that I know of )
I bought a new turbo diesel Craptiva in 2013, 37k km later (within the 3 year warranty period) the EGR cooler failed . Holden denied the warranty claim
Here in the states we have a couple transit T250s with 3.2 They both over 120k miles. Been through coolers on both, wish there there was a way to delete. Not much aftermarket in us for 3.2.
A little over a year ago, FCA (now even more $#!^ Stellantis) slapped new EGR coolers on US and Canadian 2nd generation ecodiesels (v6 3.0L). The EGR is a plague on diesel engine longevity.
Ford had a horrendous problem in the US and Canada in the early to mid 2000’s with the F series 6.0 V8 diesel. The water cooled EGR and water cooled oil cooler were both failing at right around 100K miles which coincidentally is when the warranty expired. Fords next endeavor was the twin turbo 6.4 V8, a much bigger disaster than the 6.0.
That’s sad to hear about Isuzu. Our family had two back in the early 90’s and it didn’t matter what we threw at them, they still kept going and working hard.
Self destructing EGR coolers aren't just a ranger thing, they're a Ford in general thing. Mondeos are pretty good at blowing them as well. Also good at blowing the plastic thermostat housing. Had both go, work car, and most of the other mondeos we have have also had that same problem.
@brendanmouat6942 thanks for the reply. I appreciate it. My mechanic telling me I need to have ecu tuned to turn off the EGR. I'm trying to do it tight ass way but sounds like I better get the egr valve turned off in the ecu
Mmm....just had a look at this. A stainless one.....pretty cheap though compared to the original. Would like to hear from people who have had this version fitted.
Not sure where the greater efficiency comes from with an EGR as I have had diesel vehicles since the mid 1970's and I was getting better fuel consumption figures back then from the same size of engines ( two to four liter) than I am now. Back in the 70's I was getting 40 to 50 MPG from a 2 liter now I am lucky to get 28 mpg with an engine fitted with an EGR, so the only reason I can see for the EGR is to lower emissions but dose it even do that, may lower percentages in the volume but you are then burning twice as much fuel to do the same distance, so if you half emissions with an EGR you are straight back to square one as twice as much fuel and therefore exhaust gas volume is produced.
The purpose of almost every single system fitted to a modern diesel engines is to reduce harmful emissions that are bad for human health and It does effect mileage or running costs.
EGR only improves volumetric efficiency (actually it doesn't - it reduces effective engine displacement) in spark ignition engines so that a wider throttle position can be used for a given power demand at less than WOT operation. This reduces pumping losses. Since diesels don't use a throttle valve, the only purpose of EGR in that case is NOx emissions. It helps by displacing a portion of the excess oxygen and nitrogen in the cylinder and reducing peak combustion temperature, so less NOx can form.
EGR's are the worst devices to prematurely shorten the life of every modern day diesel engine. Their operation along with PCV valves forces the engine to ingest its own filth in order to meet emissions. In doing so coat all the inlet side of the induction system with a black sticky mess that consists of carbon deposits and oil mist combination. This is far from ideal for efficient combustion and longevity of the engine. It also ends up in the sump under blow by from the pistons....great lubrication properties in that! This means more frequent oil changes etc etc. If they could come up with a better system would be great. The PCV issue is easily fixed by fitting a catch can and emptying it regularly and responsibly. Older style diesels...though probably emissions unfriendly....would see 500k and more without too many issues. Today's versions would be lucky to see 200k unless you are OCD with the oil changes, manifold cleaning, filters etc. The climate activists and all the other do gooders want the diesel dead and buried which is a shame as they have come leaps and bounds from 50 years ago to amazingly powerful and efficient engines.....apart from the EGR etc.....need more work there!
Heads up. 19 plate ranger, 60k miles. Egr cooler failed towing caravan back from holiday. It dumped all coolant out exhaust, but managed to keep topping up with water and drove 20 mile. Cost 600£ to repairs when I got back mind. So not end of world. Not catastrophic failer by any means.
Rangers & Bt50’s apparently also have problems with vane type oil pump failures while driving causing loss of oil pressure and possible catastrophic engine damage as well as torque converter failures causing loss of drive, not much fun on the way out to DP creek
I've personally had 2 engines through my shop for that reason 1@68 000 kms the other 102 000 kms . Neither due to customer changing own oil just a terrible pump or even machining of the pump caused failure- also worth noting no other engine specify 10 minutes only to change oil
Question, I have heard the 5 cylinder is a bored out reincarnated land Rover TD5 that ford acquired when ford owed land Rover. Does anyone know if this is true?
Nah, if it was it would not fail. i have a TD5 with 243.000 km runs like the first day, injectors are fine, does not burn oil. only a little leakage of transfer case fluid.
Well said nothing lasts forever. I got a 2012 VWTourareg 100.000 miles on it I had the gearbox oil changed at 85000 miles the guy inspected and said it was cristal clear inside he also clean out the egr valve and said the engine and box were in good order I tow a caravan with it and just wait to see what will fail change the engine oil every 8000 miles and give it a chncee
Mine is the 3.0 Ford diesel - EGR fail with large amount of gas out of rad cap. Roadside assist diagnosed head gasket fail, but was EGR cooler. New EGR cooler only lasted 1.5 years and I have hydraulic locking + steam out the exhaust and gas out the rad cap. Temporarily bypassed and resetting engine light light from time to time while I work out what to do here. The EGR cooler is high up on this engine and above the head. Suspect it air locks and cooks up. Need to get another ute...
My 2012 PX1 5 cyl cooler went in 2017. At 210,000kms I had it deleted and didn't have an issue until 300,000kms where an injector miss fired and put a hole in a piston. Apparently a 15year old 470nm diesel is worth 10k. Im not paying that. Ill LS or Barra swap it before paying any rediculous diesel replacement
i don't hear many egr cooler failures here. i wonder if they didn't take oz temps into consideration. increased air temps means higher egts, higher rate of egr used, more heat into the cooling circuit and less cooling from the radiator. a bit of extra cooling may help.
Here's the problem if talking about a Ford Ranger or Everest. Firstly, you don't make it clear if you are talking about the EGR valve or cooler or both ? I spoke with a Ford manager and he said he has NEVER heard of anyone swapping an EGR valve or cooler as preventative maintenance. He also said that they need to disconnect and drop the transmission in order to get to the cooler. It's at the back of the engine block. Total time 8 hours. Total cost $2,000.00 - supply and fit. Nupe - I wait for it to fail. Thanks. NB: Currently drive a Ford Everest Titanium with 166,000km on it. Zero issues (John likes to hammer Fords - go figure).
I have a 2017 3.2L ranger with over 215,000km on it and can’t fault the car or engine. Regularly towing 3.5t (occasionally more) up steep hills on the Hume and I can still sit on 110km/h all the way. Done a few mods that add to power and reliability while keeping the block cooler. 1) Unifilter bolts straight in 2) Snorkel to get cooler air 3) replaced tiny Oem inter cooler to a PWR unit (almost 3 inches thick and just fits width wise 4) Full turbo back stainless exhaust to expel hot exhaust gas better 5)Replace GT20 turbo with a GT25 6)Full tune on Dyno 7) throttle controller The ford service manager always takes it for a spin and can’t believe how much grunt it has but still remain drivable. Don’t see myself ever selling it…
I have a 3.2l 2016 Ranger, EGR went on it about 6 months ago and 2 days ago i found out the head gasket has been blown due to it. Can't believe how common an issue this is with these cars and the EGR's with the ford rangers. They seriously should've done a recall on them.
I have a 2017 bt 50 , 24000 kms on the clock 3 days after the 2nd service it died on a trip about 250 kms from home, it had spat all its engine oil out and the inside of over flow bottle was black, when the tilt tray picked it up there was a mini waterfall of oil dripping out of a dozen places it had collected.Mazda would not tell me what went wrong with it, they did replace the motor and hired me a car for the 6 months it took to fix it😁
@@Swwa89 yeah that was what i was thinking, of course it died in the middle of the night, towie dumped the ute outside the dealers , nice advertisement for them new ute sitting outside, oil sprayed up both doors sitting in a puddle of oil
@@stewart9788 sounds pretty catastrophic. How many ks has the new motor done and all issue free? Have heard mixed reviews about them but see alot on the road so can't be too bad!!!
@@Swwa89 i have done 8000ks since rebuild seems ok , but then it seemed ok before as well . Only reason i will think about keeping it past warranty is i have a complete driveline worth of parts, the bt50 before(only 29000 ks on the clock) was written off in a head on smash. I bought the wreck back its the same model.If i didn't have all the parts and diesel mechanic mates , no way i would keep it past warranty
A great addition to any diesel engine, even to a new truck, would be an "engine guard" or similar type device that directly measures surface metal temperature of your engine's cylinder head and alarms if it detects temperature outside a set range. OEM Coolant temperature gauges work off a "sender", an electronic "immersion" device that can only measure temperature if immersed in coolant. Once the coolant is gone, no more heat transfer, no more temperature indicated, no more cooling, bye-bye engine.
@@veggiemate01 I've found from previous experience with Land Rovers that unfortunately the coolant can disappear pretty quickly, or failed water pump/thermostat, coolant level ok but no flow. I used to operate with both the engine guard and a coolant level alarm, that gives maximum coverage. Putting an engine guard on my new Toyota, just in case.
Hi, Firstly thanks for all your efforts with the great informative videos! I would really appreciate some advice, I am in Thailand and bought a 2014 ranger wildtrack 2.2 120,000km. The ford dealership just links to their laptop and tells me there's no problem. Symptons: - lose of power when starting to accelerate in low gears - twice i have been approaching/going up a steep hill changed down to 2nd had no power and then down to 1st and also had no power and the vehicles stalled - slightly rough idling (only a little) and also a shudder when turning off the engine From everything I have seen online I am thinking I need to clean and blank off the EGR cooler, but I would really really appreciate some professional advice! Thanks so much in advance!
I purchased a 2013 PX Ranger new. The EGR cooler was replaced under warranty at about 30k kms. So to was the rear main seal. Later, when the transmission also started to show signs of the known issues, that vehicle found a new owner.
It is a "thing" I own an automotive workshop and we see the "thing" quite often. But many of these big engine repairs, and its a head off job to fix, are covered when someone has an aftermarket warranty.
Another great vid John, again you give the motoring public reasoning and clarity on important issues that the manufacturers dare not comment on but in my diesel mechanic opinion, the EGR system's purpose is to reduce, well, mainly oxides of nitrogen coming out the tail pipe which causes smog and damages human lungs. So the idea is there but sadly sometimes the engineering quality just isn't (especially in this case) but the notion of the EGR system as a volumetric efficiency increaser (and manufacturers of course do say this) is basically bullshit. The turbo charger was solely created for this purpose. It's not very "efficient" to partially fill a cylinder with an inert gas which contains very little in the way of oxygen therefore reducing it's ability to support combustion. The manufacturers know this but they continually come up with this "positive spin bullshit" to make it sound like, well, a positive derivement of this system. The positive is cleaner air for us all to breathe but it in no possible way contributes to better engine "efficiency". This is only done by as near to complete cylinder filling as possible by cool, oxygen enriched air. Keep up the good work John, the automotive nuts need you!
They spend all the money for an intercooler to cool the air from the turbo, then shoot themselves in the ass by putting in exhaust gas! Lets cool it down! I'd love to see the boffins research. Wow, cools down 10*c!! awesome lets put it in!
i was down at my brother in laws place, he had a person ask if he could see if he could sort it out. It had only 400km on the clock, it was a new Isuzu.
Limited information here as to why this occurs to the EGR and how it can be avoided. Mostly, it happens after a major service, when the motor coolent has been changed. Air in the cooling system forms a bubble around the EGR and can not escape. This results in the EGR overheating and cracking. Can be avoid if the cooling system is refilled correctly. This is a common reason why EGR fail in any vehicle with them fitted.
My old man had the EGR deleted from his PK Ranger because they are notorious for the RGR cooler exiting stage left without warning. The rot started generations ago.
Do vehicle manufacturers do component substitution? In the consumer electronics world the parts are continually swapped out for lower tier parts once the product is established, after a few years the same new TV is very different from the one released initially.
Never had an issue with Isuzu warranty plus the 4j is bar none the most reliable, its no angel sure but in comparison to everything else its a solid unit .
Could one solution be just reduce EGR so it runs when throttle is applied at >5/10% any more it switches off (ie via ECU remapping). Thus used less and less likely to cause issue? Translation when you are driving effectively the EGR is not in use (not blocked off, but not pumping rubbish through engine again? That combined with a Provent Catch can seemed to be best ways to minimise the cost saving designs of modern diesel motors.
Just had a small warranty claim on my dmax. Piece of plastic on the sports bar fell off and it doesn't have its own part number, only comes with a full bar. In this instance Isuzu Aus weren't the problem. The dealership was the problem with three months of arguing back and forth to get a replacement piece of plastic. Note for future dmax buyers don't get the sports bar lol
Seems most diesels have egr issues sooner or later. My Prado is losing coolant at 120k so looks like its time for me to replace the egr cooler but heres the kicker - $2200 just for the genuine replacement part...
My 3.2l Everest did exactly this at 130,000km, blew the engine and the turbo, $24k repair bill. 2018 model, so out of warranty but Ford did fix up 80% of the costs.
That’s why I don’t get the ford hate, things don’t usually go wrong with them but when they do they stand behind their customers and brand instead of throwing you under the bus like Isuzu or Mitsubishi like doing
Caravans really are helping bringing the house prices down in the area where they show up on driveways. Your neighbour gets one and your house is worth 30% less that instant.
Their might be some truth to that theory ?? A bit like the guy who Always parks his Tip Truck out the front of his house with a Bob Cat sitting on the back ???? That is until, the local council reminds him to park it elsewhere. Ironically ?? It seems to return again after a few weeks, when the owner thinks no cares now ?? IF you happen to live next door ?? Passer byers give you the dirty look like you own the Truck ???? Somewhat different to a Caravan parked right outside your Bedroom Window. But it definitely has that same feeling about it 🤔
Dont forget the ones burning down ,a insurance bloke told my mate whos ranger burned down there are heaps of these he sees,poor windscreen glue water leaks into wires under dash burns down
Egr removal is a must, no matter if you buy a used or new car. It does nothing to lower emissions outside laboratory conditions. In fact is the root cause of the majority of emissions produced by the engine. On my personal vehicles I cut the pipes, weld plugs, bypass the water circuit and throw the whole contraption in the trash. Along with the dpf filter of course. This garbage has no place on any vehicle, because it has nothing to do with emissions, but planned obsolescence. Vw have a similar problem on vans. The badly galvanized chrome flakes get sucked in to the engine and scratch the cylinders. “Leave it until it works” does not fly when you experience a catastrophic engine failure.
Emission controls do actually work but they can have downsides, like EGR cooler failure; diesels are basically filthy things for air quality; choosing to illegally remove these controls can have ramifications if you get caught.
@@petesmitt emission controls work as good as communism. They pretend to be in your favor, but on the long run are there to keep you poor. Diesels are the cleanest engines. DI gasoline dump more soot than an euro 2 or 20y old rolling coal diesel. But you know why is not a thing? Because nobody checked. So at the end is all bullshit. “Illegally” modifying my car is a delightful concept, since is MY car and there is no law that will force me to drive a crippled vehicle.
Not sure this is a Ford-specific thing. The EGR system (and swirl motor) in the Mercedes motors is infamously poor as well. The only real fix is to physically bypass or software delete it.
I can see the EGR value in increasing volumetric efficiency ie reducing pumping losses in a petrol engine where the intake is normally throttled. Can't see any value in it in a turbo diesel where the intake is basically wide open all the time. Only value there is decreasing NOx by reducing peak combustion temperature, but then increasing particulates because combustion efficiency is being deliberately reduced. So then we have to add a DPF to trap the soot. Why not just let the engine run clean and use a selective cat and Add blue to get rid of the oxides of nitrogen and get rid of the whole filthy EGR assembly.
Pretty sure you're correct all round there. Why not adblue? Because hurr durr two liquid hard, og not know what hole put liquid in, og confuse, why og truck have this befuckment.
EGR. I've had the planet saving benefits of this system explained to me so many times, that I very nearly brought a tie dyed shirt and donated some money to green peace. Sadly the downsides to this system far outweighs it's benefits in reality. I imagine the tie died shirt would have been handy for removing the thick layer of Vegemite looking substance coating the inside of my inlet manifold, that eventually choked up the engine causing it to lose power, smoke excessively and consume excess fuel.
@@stusue9733Oooh, a clever person. You're partly correct. If EGR was the only thing mixing in the manifold with fresh air, you would argue it may cause less clogging. However, PCV was around long before EGR, and it caused minimal issues. "By their powers combined, they cause captain cock-up"
Modern diesels are complete shit. Far too complicated to ever be reliable and anything at all going wrong is a massive bill. I’ll keep my V8 Commodore that’s on LPG until I die. At least the LS is simple to work on and relatively cheap to maintain, just like the Barra is.
The EGR failed on my Amarok. Dumped all the water out the exhaust system.... so there's no visible evidence your radiator is been sucked dry .... Thankfully I was warned by dashboard alarm that shit was turning south and my coolant level was low.
Naturally VW nz were total tossers about the whole thing, Acted shocked and surprised that a 40,000 km vehicle had shit itself so badly and proceeded to charge me a fortune to fix it.(outside warranty ) A year later the gearbox failed. Drove it to ford.... Traded it on a new 3.2 Ranger and haven't looked back.
Keep up the great work John.
Series 1 PX manual was full of cheap Chinese bearings.....huge failure rate...I know I had one...6 years of trouble free car.....then absolute detest for the lemon...
NX pajero....never looked back
I wouldn’t be surprised if some of these comments like ‘I’ve had my Isuzu for ten years, towed max gvm/gcm everday and not a problem’ are people employed by the company to spruik those lies in comment sections on various platforms. Really looking forward to my hearing at VCAT next month and putting it out there on the webs. 5 years ownership on my Dmax has cost $25,000 in repairs and Isuzu refused to cover $20k under warranty… Serviced every 10,000km.
They sell what is to most people their 2nd largest asset, but you'd get better treatment if you'd bought a toaster from Target.
I wish you the best of luck at VCAT mate. You won't need luck i'm sure you have the evidence so you will be on a winner.
@@markwilkinson3048 thank you! 🤞🏻
@@GreenDistantStar haha, totally
Done 150k in my v80 ldv van driven were I probably shouldn't.
After some flood water that did cost me about 6k. But other than that. The paper Dragon van isn't that bad. Compared to over priced rebadged Chinese vehicles.
Great advice on the EGR coolers John. In the heavy earthmoving world we see 2 main causes of EGR cooler failures. 1 is air pockets in the cooler when the coolant is re placed this causes the internals to melt down and can be avoided by only vacuum filling the cooling system. 2 is vibration causing the internals to crack usually after higher periods of service, replace before failure is the only fix we have found for this one and OEM's who have re designed the cooler. 👍
Ford Ranger 3.2 is a TERRIBLE truck dobt own but work on them a lot
The egr valve is a poor design as a small bearing seizes and falls out
Replacing the bearing is possible but the angle you refit the egr is very important
@@whitefox9 The 2.0 litre biturbo is even worse
@@BubblesTheCat1 show evidence, or is it just hearsay.
@@oldbloke100 It's a well known fact.
@@BubblesTheCat1 in other words, no evidence, just BS.
Hi John, A few Months ago a couple from NSW were driving near Harcourt Vic, With their 26Ft aluminum shitwah on tow. Going up hill on a blind corner the engine went poopy in pants. I towed them to Castlemaine. I gave them some contact numbers in Bendigo, where I knew they would be helped without theft. anyway they decided to have the car taken back home. When I left I said if you have time ring me and let me know what the issue was. They rang me a few weeks later. $6000.00 for the tow back to Sydney. (not by us) and $15,000.00 for a short motor changeover. The EGR had failed. No water no oil going up hill under load, and no warning.
That was really good advice you gave to change the EGR at 80,000 k's before the thing shits itself.
Thats the sort of info they should (but wont) put in the service manual. Like.. Second set of tyres change the EGR. 🙂 Regards Peter. Williams Towing Bendigo.
Getting mine replaced under warranty 75000Km. I've kept an eye on the oil, coolant & etc since new. I noticed in the past month the reservoir was dropping about 5ml per fortnight, I took it in for it's 75k service & mentioned it to my dealer. When I picked the car up they booked me in for a replacement EGR cooler under warranty no questions asked.
EGR blanking plate conveniently blocks coolant too btw, even if it's illegal
it fixed mine
Did you use both plate blockers, or just the single one
My 2013 BT50 (same motor) lasted until just over 300,000 kms before the EGR cooler started to lose coolant.
I waited 9 months for a new Hilux , so it was check every week the coolant level and top up.
In the last month before launching it off to the dealer as a trade in it was losing 1 litre a week of coolant.
Happy Days .
Absolute legend
The best thing to do if you have a 3.2 ranger or bt50 regardless if your EGR cooler has failed or not is to simply delete it from the powertrain. Cut it out like a cancer, a bad appendix, or tonsils. It's a crap component that does more harm than good. I blocked the EGR cooler off, bypassed the coolant lines, and also blocked off my egr valve on my 2014 BT50 when I noticed it slowly started losing coolant. I've never looked back since.
Is it beneficial for someone buying used to simply replace the EGR regardless as a precaution
@@positivepete4265 Honestly, if you're going to the effort of replacing it as a precaution you're better of eliminating it altogether. The reason is 1. it's a laborious task to fix and 2. Most rangers/bt50's that have popped engines are because of failed egr coolers or buggered injectors, mostly the former. From a financial, and reliability perspective it's worth doing. You have to determine if emissions compliance is worth more than the reliability of your vehicle. For me it's not.
@@turbostyler 100% not worth more, considering we're not Europe either. Lol. So if I'm on the market for a used ranger you reckon first thing to be safe is delete the egr
@@positivepete4265 I would. I think with the later models you program the ecu to not throw codes if you block the egr. But it's also important to bypass the coolant lines as well to prevent any coolant loss from any corrosion that should occur within the EGR cooler.
I had egr bloked and car tuned now i loose power intermitantly some time no code no engine cheque light turnt engine of for 5 turn it back on and its good to go
Hi John, I've really been enjoying your more recent TH-cam videos. They seem much more technical and give you the opportunity to use your deep engineering knowledge and understanding to clear up some of the motor vehicle misconceptions many of us have. Entertaining and educational.
Thanks John.
You mean John the engineer, not John the theologian🤣🤣 (I agree 100%)
Thanks John. Mine just went on my Everest at 130k. I was mislead by my mechanic telling me the massive white smoke was a diesel filter burn off. I kept loosing coolant and found someone who diagnosed it straight away. Keeping fingers crossed I haven't done a head gasket. Cheers Ron
I worked for a company that ran Isuzu, and everyone without fail, the AC failed. Some had turbo issues. Nearly all the Auto gearboxes were problematic. The dealer tried to help but basically the standard answer from IUA was piss off that's not warranty.
that's not good for business. its normally the dealers that are the problem.
for comparison i brought new a 2015 vw amarok, 1st service i got a headlight (made by hella) replaced because high beam was pointing up in the trees.
2nd service 30k i let them know reverse gear had a humming noise. (ZF 8 speed auto, common issue in bmw as well) the service manager said "there wont be anything wrong with that gearbox"
I said all im asking you to do is put a apprentice mechanic inside the ute, lift it up on the hoist and the head mechanic will tell him to put in in reverse and apply and release the brakes to hear the noise, if its noise A no issue, noise B the gearbox will go back to ZF.
the service manager said "well it this needs a gearbox i want in done in our workshop" rang me up an hour later and said yes in needs a gearbox and it will be here tomorrow if your willing to leave the ute.
I said ill book it in a few weeks time as i know its not going to fail but i could in a years time.
then at 3 years 200k i asked about the headlight that was previously replaced as its glass (plastic) was cracking badly (looked like it was smashed at night)
I said Its no longer roadworthy.
they had a look at said yes you should of said something earlier.
so they ended up replacing both headlight with the updated units (non hella).
better lights and they still look new 4 years later.
they also replaced the VW badge because it was pealing at the same time.
but I did have 1 warranty issue never fixed and that was a small part of the front bumper lost its paint the 1st time i washed it, its never gotten worse but it would of been nice to get it fixed.
the ute has never broken down or had any recalls.
Hahaha there's a reason why the AC compressor is on its own belt
Evaporator and turbo failure, very common but relatively easy fix.
I drive a 2016 ranger since new, now with 215000kms, been loaded to GVM since day one, many times at 6+tons with trailer on. Been chipped since 15000kms. Only issues a set of glow pugs and an egt sensor. ALWAYS has min 20 min warm up in driveway before the wheels turn. Flawless and eats hiluxes for breakfast!
wow
Doesn't excessive idling glaze the cylinders?
@@abyssmanur3965 All depends on your interpretation of excessive idling. For me 20 min during warm up is nothing in the grand scheme. Thermal shock on a cold engine is more a concern in my book because its a fully loaded to gvm vehicle all the time, there is no light load warm up driving option. My house is 30 seconds from a 100 kph speed region. Then it is high power settings during most driving. Glazing doesn't happen in just a few minutes.
@@kiwidiesel I have a downhill run of about 100 m then uphill grade of about 20⁰ for 250 m, my 2010 Colorado takes 4-5 km to get to safe temp where exhaust note changes and motor sounds 'happy'! So this first hundred metres kills it on a cold start, but letting it idle to warm up takes forever, like 30-40mins to see a change on the temp gauge.
So yes, I'll start her up while I have my last coffee before work!
@@abyssmanur3965 yeah I agree you may not see a change in the temp gauge but most gauges dont show a reading until approx 40-50 degrees but it letting things run until you have guzzled that coffee back is sufficient.
I have rebuilt many diesel engines from 4 litre up to 16 litre and the only ones that have ever showed cylinder glazing were well into the one million kms range so its not a thing to worry about from what I have seen.
Hi John
I have had 2 engine failures with EGR’s on my Rangers.
The first one was a 2.2 2014 XLS, it had 150,000 on it!
The second one was with my current 2018 FX4 3.2 with 150,000.
As a FORD man this devastated me but as you said, and the tow truck driver also said, all utes are having these troubles because of the emission laws Australia has.
FORD IN IPSWICH Qld we’re great about the second engine failure and replaced my engine free, I will now be monitoring and regular egr cleaning and servicing this latest engine!
And the moral of the story, don’t buy a pathetic little diesel third time
Hate to say it but perhaps buy a holden and throw on a couple ford badges
@@comradenz1927 Buy a Holden haha, goodluck finding a dealership
Thanks for all the shiny things on your videos
I was using 2018 bt50 xtr daily for work and noticing the cooler got lesser periodically. Been following the forum and found its one of probable symptoms for egr cooler failure. After 42,000km ended up trade it in for a new toyota van bcos the dealer will to pay the same price bought the ute 3 years ago. Had fun with it though..
Great vid John thanks. For the record, this is my second Dmax, no issue with either of them. Will buy a third in a few years...
The only issue I've had with my Isuzu Dmax is the battery was losing voltage right on the three year mark,and needed to be replaced,but before it did start to cause a problem the mechanic at the dealer told me your battery is at 85% when I had it in for a service.
I read this on Cars Guide; 'I thought I'd tell you about another problem with the Ford Ranger. The cooler for the EGR valve fails, and when it does it pumps water into the motor and the conrods bend under the force. We had one in our workshop recently. We fitted a new cooler with the engine rebuild, and that also failed in a few weeks. Luckily we caught it this time, which saved the motor.'
the cooling system is under pressure when hot, the EGR gets a internal crack, it might be fine whilist your driving but let it set for 15 or more min the coolant builds up and once you restart it ends up in the combustion chamber and its game over
A few years ago the company I used to work for had a Mazda BT-50 with the 2 litre engine. It suffered the EGR cooler blowout at about 70000km. The engine was rebuilt under warranty but the replacement EGR cooler failed 30000km later. It's simply a bad design and why Ford persist with it is beyond comprehension.
@@geoffreythurtell8761 the issue is the tight emission regulations put extrema rapid heat fluctuations on egr coolers.
so any slight manufacturing tolerance issue will eventually show up
Yep. We’ve had a PX1 do exactly this.
@@geoffreythurtell8761 they should have developed it better in the first place. Poor QC... but remember this is a company that cuts cost by downgrading wiring, aluminum hoses/electrical connectors to plastic.
The problem is if they redesign the cooler they have to issue a recall on all models currently out and fork up the $ to replace. They are never going to do that. They are going to do the cheapest fix even if that fix has to be done 3-4 times per car life and put some money into redesign on next model.
As stupid as it is, it's the automotive industry today.
In the UK it's either EGR failure or oil pump failure from about 50k miles that kills the 2.2 and 3.2 the most. Many of us here are still driving the earlier Mazda-built Ford Rangers which are generally excellent and manage 200k miles without issue.
The mind boggles that oil pumps fail at 50k? I will stick with my Japanese imported Land Cruiser, 180'000 miles and still has good oil pressure.
Ford never cease to amaze me that they seem to f*ck up basic components that where perfected decades ago.
Having said that, what is Ford stating for oil changes on the Ranger.
@@harveysmith100my landcruiser has 395,000 and I’ve had it for 25 years. Starts in half a crank in heat or snow. Full oil pressure. They built them to last and more importantly, reliable and maintainable
I've done 240,000 in my ranger and have only had to a alternator, and the egr started to leave water a month or so ago. I tow a car trailer 2 to 3 times a week doin 500k round trips loaded its been a pretty solid bus
Change it then before it shits the bed
Yep, we have those failures here in the UK 🇬🇧
John.
Sometimes you post some silly videos and some are excellent. This one is a best presented video.
In laymen terms you gave an explanation as to just what a EGR is, how it works and how it fails plus what the failure then results in, all given with no nonsense.
Equally your interpretation of the Isuzu in that as they sell a lot less vehicles the pool of opinions is also much smaller.
Thank you.
Hi John, I think you have missed he real problem with the EGR in the Ranger. When the cooler fails the coolant goes into the turbo (not onto the ground) and many things can happen, head gaskets and bent rods to name but two.
coolant flows into the combustion chamber causing hydrostatic lock.. the force behind the pistons moving upward can bend connecting rods, crack the crankshaft, cause fractures in the cylinder walls, etc.
Here in Indonesia I have a Ford Everest with the 2.5 TDCI engine from 2007. No EGR cooler. Still runs okay.
The only real issue with it is that a combination of my driving habits, crappy roads and torsion bar front suspension is hard on ball joints.
It still amazes me, after all your videos about similar subjects, people still insist on pushing their vehicles to the limit and don't expect a consequence. Absolutely astonishing considering, even in most operators manuals I have ever read, the manufacturer actually states that any extra stress requires more frequent maintenance. It's alarming people don't understand such a basic principal.
That’s not how they market them though .. that’s buried deep in the 309 page owners manual
When it goes, it goes
Another simple straight to the point video Thanks John.
Yep had that failed at 125km. Lucky I caught it as I noticed the coolant level was dropping really quickly. Ford replaced it for free even it was out of warranty
Spot on with everything you said here.
Just switch the stupid EGR off with a harness module that plugs into the MAF sensor. I did it,and my 2012 BT 50 loves it. Do this and check how clean the engine oil stays after you change it. All the EGR gunk stays out of your intake. I dont buy the volumetric jibber. In my books there is no way hot and dirty exhaust should go into your inlet manifold. Give your whole intake system a good clean, including the intercooler.I binned the poxy plastic Ford one,and fitted a bigger tig welded aluminum unit.Still has original turbo.Running 3inch exhaust from turbo. Engine now keeps making power under load,before it would fall away. Just my personal experience owning the vehicle 10 years.
Still will fail eventually. But your on the right track
@@jasonh6475 can you explain how the egr cooler can still fail "eventually" even with a delete module connected. Since it is "Thermal stress - EGR coolers can exhibit cracking or warping thanks to repeated cycling of extreme temperatures. The cooler is subjected to exhaust gas which can reach 800°C which is then cooled down to around 200°C. Over time it can damage the cooler and cause leaks or complete failure. The egr delete module cable stops those heat cycles .
@@Wdthyfdo even though the EGR isn’t cycling anymore the element or core is still operating as per usual with exposure to exhaust gas and coolant and will fail as per usual.
Take that module out ASAP all it does is tell the intake temp it's at 0° all the time so the egr valve stayes closed thinking it's running cold, your car will run rich, use more fuel and won't be able to tell u if there is a failure, just blank it and turn off the program via re mapping
Thanks John for letting us know the truth.
Who can remember the first Isuzu KB 250/280's that came out about twenty years ago? Those noisy clacking ute's. We've got several of those here in South Africa still running happily with more than a million km's on the odo... Those were the days. You could fix and rebuild that engine with ease as well. Pump and injectors type ☺☺☺👍👍👍
Yeah,they were truck engines,simple and rugged that Isuzu built,now everyone wants a 12" screen,I thought supposed to be driving not distracted by a bloody TV in the thing...
@@geoffbell166 100 % agree. And to boot it all most of those in car entertainment systems are poor quality as well. I just mount an Android tablet on my dashboard if I really need a big screen to navigate. Which is rather seldom. Music from my stereo system in the car is way better on the open road as well, as my eyes can be on the road. Where they should be.
Dumb question: If it's bad to downshift on an automatic ("brake pads are cheaper than transmissions"), what do paddle shifters do differently (other than run through the higher speeds)?
Not "dumb" at all.
My Ranger downshift automatically, if I brake going down a hill it will downshift
@@peterbrowning1251 Yeah my Prado has radar cruise control and often when it closes in on a slower vehicle it will first drop a gear to slow down before it starts braking.
modern auto's this is not a problem, old ones can overheat.
if the torque converter stays locked then it wont be an issue.
lots of Toyotas even newer ones unlock the torque converter as soon as you take your foot off the throttle
Every second person I know owns a diesel ute/dual cab of one brand or another the only ones that have had motors blow up have been Ford's ( 3 that I know of )
I bought a new turbo diesel Craptiva in 2013, 37k km later (within the 3 year warranty period) the EGR cooler failed . Holden denied the warranty claim
Here in the states we have a couple transit T250s with 3.2
They both over 120k miles.
Been through coolers on both, wish there there was a way to delete.
Not much aftermarket in us for 3.2.
There’s heaps available, just need to know what you’re looking for
A little over a year ago, FCA (now even more $#!^ Stellantis) slapped new EGR coolers on US and Canadian 2nd generation ecodiesels (v6 3.0L). The EGR is a plague on diesel engine longevity.
Ford had a horrendous problem in the US and Canada in the early to mid 2000’s with the F series 6.0 V8 diesel. The water cooled EGR and water cooled oil cooler were both failing at right around 100K miles which coincidentally is when the warranty expired. Fords next endeavor was the twin turbo 6.4 V8, a much bigger disaster than the 6.0.
That’s sad to hear about Isuzu. Our family had two back in the early 90’s and it didn’t matter what we threw at them, they still kept going and working hard.
@@New_Zealand_ 😲😳. Far out.
Always entertaining.
Always informative.
Great combo.
Thank you, John.
Hi J - any risk in going for an aftermarket cooler as a replacement?
Ok - so are there any better aftermarket egr coolers out there for the Ranger ?
Goss has a aftermarket one,and inside has a different design to oem
Our work shop is kept very busy with ranger failures, will be interesting to see how next gen goes🤦🏻
Hopefully shit, so your work shop can keep making money 💰
@@rfmonkey4942 if he's a dealer he makes stuff all, Ford pays a dealer about half the time it actually takes to replace, it isn't good business.
Self destructing EGR coolers aren't just a ranger thing, they're a Ford in general thing.
Mondeos are pretty good at blowing them as well. Also good at blowing the plastic thermostat housing. Had both go, work car, and most of the other mondeos we have have also had that same problem.
That Mondeo’s engine development was led by PSA Peugeot Citroen. So blame them for that
Don't tease me. Classic Cadogan.
Px1 owner, 335km, just done egr delete, two blanking plates and rerouted a heater hose.
Did the car throw any codes
@@MrAussielovin the egr valve stopped working.
@brendanmouat6942 thanks for the reply. I appreciate it. My mechanic telling me I need to have ecu tuned to turn off the EGR. I'm trying to do it tight ass way but sounds like I better get the egr valve turned off in the ecu
John ...Goss makes a aftermarket one ,which has a different design inside the egr tube..
Mmm....just had a look at this. A stainless one.....pretty cheap though compared to the original. Would like to hear from people who have had this version fitted.
Not sure where the greater efficiency comes from with an EGR as I have had diesel vehicles since the mid 1970's and I was getting better fuel consumption figures back then from the same size of engines ( two to four liter) than I am now. Back in the 70's I was getting 40 to 50 MPG from a 2 liter now I am lucky to get 28 mpg with an engine fitted with an EGR, so the only reason I can see for the EGR is to lower emissions but dose it even do that, may lower percentages in the volume but you are then burning twice as much fuel to do the same distance, so if you half emissions with an EGR you are straight back to square one as twice as much fuel and therefore exhaust gas volume is produced.
The purpose of almost every single system fitted to a modern diesel engines is to reduce harmful emissions that are bad for human health and It does effect mileage or running costs.
A mate of mine in the trade blanked off my EGR at the inlet manifold on my Peugeot 306 (DW10 engine) , car runs just as well as before.
EGR only improves volumetric efficiency (actually it doesn't - it reduces effective engine displacement) in spark ignition engines so that a wider throttle position can be used for a given power demand at less than WOT operation. This reduces pumping losses. Since diesels don't use a throttle valve, the only purpose of EGR in that case is NOx emissions. It helps by displacing a portion of the excess oxygen and nitrogen in the cylinder and reducing peak combustion temperature, so less NOx can form.
EGR's are the worst devices to prematurely shorten the life of every modern day diesel engine. Their operation along with PCV valves forces the engine to ingest its own filth in order to meet emissions. In doing so coat all the inlet side of the induction system with a black sticky mess that consists of carbon deposits and oil mist combination. This is far from ideal for efficient combustion and longevity of the engine. It also ends up in the sump under blow by from the pistons....great lubrication properties in that! This means more frequent oil changes etc etc. If they could come up with a better system would be great. The PCV issue is easily fixed by fitting a catch can and emptying it regularly and responsibly. Older style diesels...though probably emissions unfriendly....would see 500k and more without too many issues. Today's versions would be lucky to see 200k unless you are OCD with the oil changes, manifold cleaning, filters etc. The climate activists and all the other do gooders want the diesel dead and buried which is a shame as they have come leaps and bounds from 50 years ago to amazingly powerful and efficient engines.....apart from the EGR etc.....need more work there!
@@nuclearfishin1185 100% fact, green voting morons have no clue.
Heads up.
19 plate ranger, 60k miles.
Egr cooler failed towing caravan back from holiday.
It dumped all coolant out exhaust, but managed to keep topping up with water and drove 20 mile.
Cost 600£ to repairs when I got back mind. So not end of world. Not catastrophic failer by any means.
Rangers & Bt50’s apparently also have problems with vane type oil pump failures while driving causing loss of oil pressure and possible catastrophic engine damage as well as torque converter failures causing loss of drive, not much fun on the way out to DP creek
Is that down to people changing their own oil and not doing it within 10 minutes?
I've personally had 2 engines through my shop for that reason 1@68 000 kms the other 102 000 kms . Neither due to customer changing own oil just a terrible pump or even machining of the pump caused failure- also worth noting no other engine specify 10 minutes only to change oil
Question, I have heard the 5 cylinder is a bored out reincarnated land Rover TD5 that ford acquired when ford owed land Rover. Does anyone know if this is true?
Nah, if it was it would not fail. i have a TD5 with 243.000 km runs like the first day, injectors are fine, does not burn oil. only a little leakage of transfer case fluid.
Well said nothing lasts forever. I got a 2012 VWTourareg 100.000 miles on it I had the gearbox oil changed at 85000 miles the guy inspected and said it was cristal clear inside he also clean out the egr valve and said the engine and box were in good order I tow a caravan with it and just wait to see what will fail change the engine oil every 8000 miles and give it a chncee
Mine is the 3.0 Ford diesel - EGR fail with large amount of gas out of rad cap. Roadside assist diagnosed head gasket fail, but was EGR cooler. New EGR cooler only lasted 1.5 years and I have hydraulic locking + steam out the exhaust and gas out the rad cap. Temporarily bypassed and resetting engine light light from time to time while I work out what to do here. The EGR cooler is high up on this engine and above the head. Suspect it air locks and cooks up. Need to get another ute...
Might be time for old mate to get a proper Isuzu like an NPR, or maybe a Mitsubishi Fuso. At least then the 6 ton won’t be an issue.
Agreed. He needs to gender-non-specifically man up and buy a truck. And this doesn’t mean a RAM or Silverado.
But not with a 4jj1
My 2012 PX1 5 cyl cooler went in 2017. At 210,000kms
I had it deleted and didn't have an issue until 300,000kms where an injector miss fired and put a hole in a piston.
Apparently a 15year old 470nm diesel is worth 10k. Im not paying that. Ill LS or Barra swap it before paying any rediculous diesel replacement
i don't hear many egr cooler failures here. i wonder if they didn't take oz temps into consideration. increased air temps means higher egts, higher rate of egr used, more heat into the cooling circuit and less cooling from the radiator. a bit of extra cooling may help.
The Ranger is Australian designed by Ford Australia. Just a poor design of egr
@@adampowell4867 they didn't design the engine, its a European design.
@@oldbloke100 Ford stated they did millions of kilometres of testing in Australia. They approved use of the poorly designed egr
Here's the problem if talking about a Ford Ranger or Everest. Firstly, you don't make it clear if you are talking about the EGR valve or cooler or both ?
I spoke with a Ford manager and he said he has NEVER heard of anyone swapping an EGR valve or cooler as preventative maintenance.
He also said that they need to disconnect and drop the transmission in order to get to the cooler. It's at the back of the engine block.
Total time 8 hours. Total cost $2,000.00 - supply and fit.
Nupe - I wait for it to fail. Thanks.
NB: Currently drive a Ford Everest Titanium with 166,000km on it. Zero issues (John likes to hammer Fords - go figure).
I have a 2017 3.2L ranger with over 215,000km on it and can’t fault the car or engine. Regularly towing 3.5t (occasionally more) up steep hills on the Hume and I can still sit on 110km/h all the way.
Done a few mods that add to power and reliability while keeping the block cooler.
1) Unifilter bolts straight in
2) Snorkel to get cooler air
3) replaced tiny Oem inter cooler to a PWR unit (almost 3 inches thick and just fits width wise
4) Full turbo back stainless exhaust to expel hot exhaust gas better
5)Replace GT20 turbo with a GT25
6)Full tune on Dyno
7) throttle controller
The ford service manager always takes it for a spin and can’t believe how much grunt it has but still remain drivable. Don’t see myself ever selling it…
I have a 3.2l 2016 Ranger, EGR went on it about 6 months ago and 2 days ago i found out the head gasket has been blown due to it. Can't believe how common an issue this is with these cars and the EGR's with the ford rangers. They seriously should've done a recall on them.
Hmm. Doesnt surprise me in the slightest. Will definitely hang on to my old landcruisers.
I have a 2017 bt 50 , 24000 kms on the clock 3 days after the 2nd service it died on a trip about 250 kms from home, it had spat all its engine oil out and the inside of over flow bottle was black, when the tilt tray picked it up there was a mini waterfall of oil dripping out of a dozen places it had collected.Mazda would not tell me what went wrong with it, they did replace the motor and hired me a car for the 6 months it took to fix it😁
Thats not ideal!!!!! Kind of story you see on today tonight. Sounds like they were pretty keen to keep it hush hush
@@Swwa89 yeah that was what i was thinking, of course it died in the middle of the night, towie dumped the ute outside the dealers , nice advertisement for them new ute sitting outside, oil sprayed up both doors sitting in a puddle of oil
@@stewart9788 sounds pretty catastrophic. How many ks has the new motor done and all issue free? Have heard mixed reviews about them but see alot on the road so can't be too bad!!!
@@Swwa89 i have done 8000ks since rebuild seems ok , but then it seemed ok before as well . Only reason i will think about keeping it past warranty is i have a complete driveline worth of parts, the bt50 before(only 29000 ks on the clock) was written off in a head on smash. I bought the wreck back its the same model.If i didn't have all the parts and diesel mechanic mates , no way i would keep it past warranty
@@stewart9788 yeah fair enough not built to last!!! I'll happily stick with my old y61 gu wagon I think
A great addition to any diesel engine, even to a new truck, would be an "engine guard" or similar type device that directly measures surface metal temperature of your engine's cylinder head and alarms if it detects temperature outside a set range. OEM Coolant temperature gauges work off a "sender", an electronic "immersion" device that can only measure temperature if immersed in coolant. Once the coolant is gone, no more heat transfer, no more temperature indicated, no more cooling, bye-bye engine.
You can purchase a Davies Craig low coolant alarm for this purpose.
@@veggiemate01 I've found from previous experience with Land Rovers that unfortunately the coolant can disappear pretty quickly, or failed water pump/thermostat, coolant level ok but no flow. I used to operate with both the engine guard and a coolant level alarm, that gives maximum coverage. Putting an engine guard on my new Toyota, just in case.
I only found that out AFTER I had killed my engine.
@@kellymcdermott2546 well worth the relatively small cost, takes the "gamble" out of your cooling situation.
Seen your info 4 years ago just wondering how the 2litre bi turbo is going . Would like an update
Hi, Firstly thanks for all your efforts with the great informative videos!
I would really appreciate some advice, I am in Thailand and bought a 2014 ranger wildtrack 2.2 120,000km. The ford dealership just links to their laptop and tells me there's no problem.
Symptons:
- lose of power when starting to accelerate in low gears
- twice i have been approaching/going up a steep hill changed down to 2nd had no power and then down to 1st and also had no power and the vehicles stalled
- slightly rough idling (only a little) and also a shudder when turning off the engine
From everything I have seen online I am thinking I need to clean and blank off the EGR cooler, but I would really really appreciate some professional advice!
Thanks so much in advance!
I purchased a 2013 PX Ranger new. The EGR cooler was replaced under warranty at about 30k kms. So to was the rear main seal. Later, when the transmission also started to show signs of the known issues, that vehicle found a new owner.
It is a "thing" I own an automotive workshop and we see the "thing" quite often. But many of these big engine repairs, and its a head off job to fix, are covered when someone has an aftermarket warranty.
Another great vid John, again you give the motoring public reasoning and clarity on important issues that the manufacturers dare not comment on but in my diesel mechanic opinion, the EGR system's purpose is to reduce, well, mainly oxides of nitrogen coming out the tail pipe which causes smog and damages human lungs. So the idea is there but sadly sometimes the engineering quality just isn't (especially in this case) but the notion of the EGR system as a volumetric efficiency increaser (and manufacturers of course do say this) is basically bullshit. The turbo charger was solely created for this purpose. It's not very "efficient" to partially fill a cylinder with an inert gas which contains very little in the way of oxygen therefore reducing it's ability to support combustion. The manufacturers know this but they continually come up with this "positive spin bullshit" to make it sound like, well, a positive derivement of this system. The positive is cleaner air for us all to breathe but it in no possible way contributes to better engine "efficiency". This is only done by as near to complete cylinder filling as possible by cool, oxygen enriched air. Keep up the good work John, the automotive nuts need you!
They spend all the money for an intercooler to cool the air from the turbo, then shoot themselves in the ass by putting in exhaust gas! Lets cool it down! I'd love to see the boffins research. Wow, cools down 10*c!! awesome lets put it in!
Does the 2.0 bi turbo have the same issue with the egr cooler?
hey John , your tool / gadget wall is looking very impressive , how do you keep those tools so clean , any tips ?
Don't use them perhaps? 😂🇦🇺
Don't use them
Always wipe your tool, mum used to say.
John is using handy wipes on his tool, it cleans and polish"s at the same time 🤣🤣🤣
easy, don't use them for anything other than as props
i was down at my brother in laws place, he had a person ask if he could see if he could sort it out. It had only 400km on the clock, it was a new Isuzu.
Limited information here as to why this occurs to the EGR and how it can be avoided. Mostly, it happens after a major service, when the motor coolent has been changed. Air in the cooling system forms a bubble around the EGR and can not escape. This results in the EGR overheating and cracking. Can be avoid if the cooling system is refilled correctly. This is a common reason why EGR fail in any vehicle with them fitted.
What is the correct way to refill system after coolant change?
My old man had the EGR deleted from his PK Ranger because they are notorious for the RGR cooler exiting stage left without warning. The rot started generations ago.
Coming to you from the creek. 😉
So better buy a Hilux? And what about the new Ranger Raptor? Solid one or also coming with problems?
My 2013 ranger's egr cracked at 150000km. Just before it completely failed it was like a steam train going up the street
So what is the best ute to purchase at the moment?
2000 2.8 td rodeo. Mines got 530000 ks on it.
Do vehicle manufacturers do component substitution? In the consumer electronics world the parts are continually swapped out for lower tier parts once the product is established, after a few years the same new TV is very different from the one released initially.
Never had an issue with Isuzu warranty plus the 4j is bar none the most reliable, its no angel sure but in comparison to everything else its a solid unit .
What warranty issues have you had ?
Is this just an issue for the 3.2 Ranger or does the 2.0 ltr BiTurbo have the same issue?
Could one solution be just reduce EGR so it runs when throttle is applied at >5/10% any more it switches off (ie via ECU remapping). Thus used less and less likely to cause issue? Translation when you are driving effectively the EGR is not in use (not blocked off, but not pumping rubbish through engine again? That combined with a Provent Catch can seemed to be best ways to minimise the cost saving designs of modern diesel motors.
Good practical commonsense information.
Why do Elephants have Big Ears ?
Cause Noddy won’t pay the Ransom.
🤣🤣🤣
😂. Good one!
I don't get it 😕 😐 😒 😪
@@BoleDaPole I assume Noddy and Big Ears weren’t part of your childhood then.
John, would be keen to watch a long term review of your Triton one day.
Just had a small warranty claim on my dmax. Piece of plastic on the sports bar fell off and it doesn't have its own part number, only comes with a full bar. In this instance Isuzu Aus weren't the problem. The dealership was the problem with three months of arguing back and forth to get a replacement piece of plastic. Note for future dmax buyers don't get the sports bar lol
Seems most diesels have egr issues sooner or later. My Prado is losing coolant at 120k so looks like its time for me to replace the egr cooler but heres the kicker - $2200 just for the genuine replacement part...
My 3.2l Everest did exactly this at 130,000km, blew the engine and the turbo, $24k repair bill. 2018 model, so out of warranty but Ford did fix up 80% of the costs.
BS
Hardly a horror story. If anything that’s an endorsement for Ford standing behind their product and brand.
That’s why I don’t get the ford hate, things don’t usually go wrong with them but when they do they stand behind their customers and brand instead of throwing you under the bus like Isuzu or Mitsubishi like doing
They should have covered the lot, warranty period is just their promise to not be dicks about doing what the law requires.
@@julienrudd7545 yes they probably should have
I've had a ranger now back to toyota.ill be staying with toyota for good.tuff and reliable. But that's my opinion
Cheers for that
Caravans really are helping bringing the house prices down in the area where they show up on driveways. Your neighbour gets one and your house is worth 30% less that instant.
Their might be some truth to that theory ??
A bit like the guy who Always parks his Tip Truck out the front of his house with a Bob Cat sitting on the back ????
That is until, the local council reminds him to park it elsewhere.
Ironically ??
It seems to return again after a few weeks, when the owner thinks no cares now ??
IF you happen to live next door ??
Passer byers give you the dirty look like you own the Truck ????
Somewhat different to a Caravan parked right outside your Bedroom Window.
But it definitely has that same feeling about it 🤔
thanks for information I have a mustang with eco boost energy
Different engines, unless you are talking about us spec petrol /gasoline powered units.
🇨🇦here are full size 1/2 trucks (eg f150) available down under?
Sorry for the stupid question.
Does the Mazda BT-50 with the same 3.2 have the same problem, John?
yes, its exactly the same engine
My friend had 2015 ,great car 160000km no dramas ,2018 blew up on 60000km
I was looking for one on Carsales for a while and was surprised how many were advertised with "replacement" motors.
You are talking about an inter cooler right? Or is there another cooler in the Ford?
The Toyota 70 series, 1 cup holder but it'll get you there and back for years to come
Pretty agricultural to drive but tow with ease
Dont forget the ones burning down ,a insurance bloke told my mate whos ranger burned down there are heaps of these he sees,poor windscreen glue water leaks into wires under dash burns down
well said
Wow, out here in Thailand, Isuzu support is top notch and Ford is other way round
To ask a silly question, what's the most dependable 4x4 ute...
94 2.8 turbo diesel rodeo.
Egr removal is a must, no matter if you buy a used or new car. It does nothing to lower emissions outside laboratory conditions. In fact is the root cause of the majority of emissions produced by the engine. On my personal vehicles I cut the pipes, weld plugs, bypass the water circuit and throw the whole contraption in the trash. Along with the dpf filter of course. This garbage has no place on any vehicle, because it has nothing to do with emissions, but planned obsolescence. Vw have a similar problem on vans. The badly galvanized chrome flakes get sucked in to the engine and scratch the cylinders. “Leave it until it works” does not fly when you experience a catastrophic engine failure.
Emission controls do actually work but they can have downsides, like EGR cooler failure; diesels are basically filthy things for air quality; choosing to illegally remove these controls can have ramifications if you get caught.
@@petesmitt emission controls work as good as communism. They pretend to be in your favor, but on the long run are there to keep you poor. Diesels are the cleanest engines. DI gasoline dump more soot than an euro 2 or 20y old rolling coal diesel. But you know why is not a thing? Because nobody checked. So at the end is all bullshit. “Illegally” modifying my car is a delightful concept, since is MY car and there is no law that will force me to drive a crippled vehicle.
Not sure this is a Ford-specific thing. The EGR system (and swirl motor) in the Mercedes motors is infamously poor as well. The only real fix is to physically bypass or software delete it.
I can see the EGR value in increasing volumetric efficiency ie reducing pumping losses in a petrol engine where the intake is normally throttled. Can't see any value in it in a turbo diesel where the intake is basically wide open all the time. Only value there is decreasing NOx by reducing peak combustion temperature, but then increasing particulates because combustion efficiency is being deliberately reduced. So then we have to add a DPF to trap the soot. Why not just let the engine run clean and use a selective cat and Add blue to get rid of the oxides of nitrogen and get rid of the whole filthy EGR assembly.
Pretty sure you're correct all round there.
Why not adblue? Because hurr durr two liquid hard, og not know what hole put liquid in, og confuse, why og truck have this befuckment.
EGR. I've had the planet saving benefits of this system explained to me so many times, that I very nearly brought a tie dyed shirt and donated some money to green peace.
Sadly the downsides to this system far outweighs it's benefits in reality.
I imagine the tie died shirt would have been handy for removing the thick layer of Vegemite looking substance coating the inside of my inlet manifold, that eventually choked up the engine causing it to lose power, smoke excessively and consume excess fuel.
You sure you aren't confusing EGR and PCV?
@@stusue9733Oooh, a clever person. You're partly correct. If EGR was the only thing mixing in the manifold with fresh air, you would argue it may cause less clogging. However, PCV was around long before EGR, and it caused minimal issues.
"By their powers combined, they cause captain cock-up"
Don’t forget DI adding to the woes in petrol engines. The trifecta of PCV, EGR and DI.
EGR's do work very well at reducing pollution without causing combustion issues; it's the EGR cooler malfunctioning that's the big problem here.
@@petesmitt I thought it was carbon that was killing the penguins and cooking humanity, not oxides of nitrogen?
I beat the heck out of my ford Barra motor. Overload it beyond the limits, running on lpg and clock up Kay’s. No issues.
Modern diesels are complete shit. Far too complicated to ever be reliable and anything at all going wrong is a massive bill. I’ll keep my V8 Commodore that’s on LPG until I die. At least the LS is simple to work on and relatively cheap to maintain, just like the Barra is.