How to prep a 3D Printed model car body
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ค. 2023
- Follow along as I show how I prep a 3D resin printed Dodge Ram TRX body for primer. I wish that they were as easy as a plastic model car, but with a little work they can be just as nice.
For the TH-cam algorithm: 3D Printed 1/24 scale model car truck Dodge Ram TRX T-Rex Tamiya Aoshima Hasegawa Fujimi Revell AMT Round2 MPC 1/25 scale plastic model car building primer sanding airbrushing Luka Mokei Plamo Plamodel HPI
I hope that you all enjoyed this video, please leave me a comment if you would like to see more tutorials like this in the future. I truly enjoy sharing this type of content on the channel and I hope that it is educational to help those of you who have either bought 3D resin or plan to in the future.
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Thanks again,
James - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Gotta sand with 200 grit and 300 grit first to level out the surface and remove layer lines. Then use a fine grit sanding sponge all over..... then wetsand with microfiber sanding sponge....then 3 coats of primer.... then sand microfine...prime...then paint
I’ve seen Lindsay’s work up close. Follow his advice! Thank you for your comment.
How can I find the recipe to make a 3D printed model called. Lil red wreaker.can you help me .thanks@@ScaleModelExperiment
I’ve never heard of that car. Where did you see it?
Thank you for the detailed procedure required with a printed body. Confirms to me that I’m not interested in this printed body extra work. Glad everything I wanted to build is in a kit form. Maybe not the exact model but the boxed kit is modifiable to get what I want.
I’m glad to help Gene, I love the variety that the printer brings, but the prep level is certainly a factor in building them.
One thing I like to do Jim before I do any sanding……deepen the shut lines a bit beforehand. That way they’ll be easier to scribe again if the sanding goes a bit deeper than anticipated.
Also, for the divots that the supports can leave behind, I take the liquid resin it was made with, cut off the eye end of a sowing needle so you have a bit of a “horseshoe”.
Then, dip the horseshoe into the resin very slightly, and then let that flow into the divots. Take a mini UV light, shine on the divot for a few seconds, and you have an instant repair. 👌🏾
Sand per normal, and one would never know those divots were there.
Very good video! I’ll have to pick up some of those thin sanding sticks, as I’ve folded up sandpaper into oblivion to get the tight corners. That’ll save some of the trouble! ☺️
That’s a great tip Bill, I never thought of using liquid resin as a filler. I’ve learned a lot from your work and hope to dive deep into blender in the future. Thanks for watching!👍
@@ScaleModelExperiment 👍🏾👍🏾
Great tutorial, thank you!
Thank you for watching Antithesis, I appreciate your support 👍
Great video. Things I didn’t know before. Thank you.
Thanks so much Dale, there will be more 3d print videos coming…
Very interesting! Thanks for the video 😎👍
Thank you so much for your support👍
for the panel lines i use the panel scrape tool (of course making the line little wider in the proces) + some thick electrician tape to guide my clumsy fingers when needed :D
I’ve seen others use Dymo label maker tape to use as a guide for scribing which is a good idea. I slip all the time when I’m not careful.
Awesome info video James. Thanks. Ron
Thanks for watching Ron, I appreciate your support 👍
Love the tech stuff.
Thanks for watching Moon, it’s my pleasure to share what I’ve figured out.
Cool video
Thanks Travis!
Amazing results! Patience and persistence seems to be the key. This was a great tutorial!
Thank you so much Swamp Fox, I totally agree about patience being the key. At times I find myself rushing but I know that I will regret it later.
Thanks for the tutorial. Now I know what to expect if I ever decide to get a 3d printed kit.
Thanks for watching Alan, I’m glad to help.
Nice tutorial James ❤
Thanks Brother! I appreciate you man 👍
I had to come back and rewatch. I have a set of 3D printed tires that I was trying to sand smooth. I was using 1000 grit and wondering why it wasn't working very well. Now, I know why! I don't have 380, but I do have Tamiya 400 grit.
Hi JD, I’m sure that you’ve figured out that 400 works just fine. Thanks for watching👍
Is is the first video I've seen on how to deal with a 3d printed body, excellent stuff James.
Great tip on the silicone brush for filler too!.
Thanks for watching MrModelWorx, I wish I had seen something before I made a mess with my first body🤪. Lesson learned and shared…
Nice tutorial. I found this very helpful. I have a 3D printed body I am going to use for a build soon. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching Michael, time and patience is the key, primer helps to find the stuff you missed.
Hey bud, thank you for doing a video on resin printing. Keep making more videos of it. I'm really considering in purchasing a resin printer in the future and this will help me in making the decisions. As always thank you for these videos, they are very informative! 😊
Thank you for watching AE, resin printers are cool and interesting but at the same time expensive and frustrating. I’ll do more videos related to using it in the future.
Nice work James, very interesting video which will definitely come in handy if I decide to build a 3D printed model kit in the future. Well done and keep up the great work.
Thank you Karl, the 3D stuff is unique so that is the only reason I would go to so much trouble to build them. I would never take a 3D over plastic if it was available at a normal price.
Another great informative video, thanks James. I use a small amount of the actual 3D resin used to print the model, to fill in small holes. Just spot fill & use a light to cure. Dry in less than a min, good to go. Then sand like normal. Can't wait to see the truck you have finished, great job.
Someone else mentioned to use resin for filling the holes. I’ll have to try that next time. Thanks for watching and your tip!
great video, I found it very interesting, as I had to do all the same sanding steps when I was making 3D printed lights. Wet sand my fingers off lol.
Thanks for watching David, I know what you mean about your fingers. It’s a perfectionist’s chore…
outstanding video on what to do when you get your 3d printed body not sure I have seen anyone show the steps thank you well done
Thanks for watching Deen, I wish I had seen a video before I made a mess of my hobby space dry sanding🤪
3d printing is for sure the future of modeling but what a chore to get the body to the point of just pulling a styrene body out of a box. It is a constant battle of do I want to do the work over do I want these more obscure vehicles to build! I really enjoyed the close ups of the body and the challenges that face you when you choose prints. A lot of other channels just skip many of the details when putting together printed kits. Enjoyed this a lot. Thanks for the efforts.
Thanks for the feedback Spencer. Take your time and work on that truck model you bought in your spare time. Before you know it it will be ready for primer. Just like paint polishing it’s a zen time to pursuit perfection for me. Take care my friend👍
Good idea on wet sanding. I do some sanding , then I use the super thin CA to level out the layering , and continue sanding with finer grits.
Thanks, that’s an interesting way to tackle the problem. I’ll have to try it.
Good advice with wet sanding. I just ordered a cheap 3d printed body from ebay to test out before I start on the $100.00 body I bought at the last NNL
Good luck Joel, just remember to keep the body lines crisp and check your work often. You’ll be fine! Thanks for watching 👍
Great Video James. I've had horrible luck with my Saturn and am considering getting a completely different machine!!!! I have yet to deal with this since I've never had a successful print accept the demo files.. 😑. Thanks for doing this Video. I'll be watching
That’s crazy Mike! That would drive me crazy trying to figure out why! I suggest checking your settings and ask around on forums…
Man you have tons of models you have built nice collection i been back in it for a year now and only got 4 built haha
I started building almost 30 years ago. I’ve given away a lot of my early builds so what you see in my room is all within the last 15 or so.
@@ScaleModelExperiment that's a long time lol. I did it as a kid and stopped when driving real race ars took all the free time I had from age 11 till two years ago and I got back into the hobby recently and man how has things changed in such a short time. I'm 31 and when I was building with my dad and now there is so much in the aftermarket world it's amazing and crazzy
@@youknoweverything7643 I started building just a few years before you. You’re right, they’re are a lot of benefits now that we’re not available when I started like TH-cam!
Thank you very much. You are awesome to watch. Just wondering what happens or how do you remove a lot of pieces from your printing hue? Do you soak it in hot water? What processes do you use. Many of us can't use our own machine but they send us what we may order still on a tree. I appreciate you showing us what to use and even more how to keep the dust down. Just so happens I'm stage 4 cancer metastatic to my lungs. Using my model time to remember the past. Enjoy watching you and your dedication to making such wonderful pieces of automotive art.
Thanks so much for dropping by Michael, I appreciate you watching. I’ve just begun using my 3d printer and I’m still learning myself.. I use a water wash resin so after I put the finished print in the wash station for 10 mins I run hot water over the supports and they peel right off the model. It’s not perfect but sure beats clipping 500 supports from a body. Take care with your cancer and good luck 👍
Awesome video, thanks for sharing man, I haven’t work on a 3d printed body yet, but those lines was the reason I didn’t want to work with them
Thanks for watching Marcos, not all 3d printed parts have noticeable lines in them. Just big flat ones seem to. It’s not a big deal just part of the process if you want to build something unique.
maybe i'll give it a try if i see something interesting, thanks
Man, I'm thinking I might save the 3D printing to the masters. I went through a whole bottle of resin one afternoon just tweaking the exposure time and settings. I finally got some prints I'd have no shame in selling. The next day I felt confident enough to print a body.....it was raining so the humidity was grossly higher and its like I had to tweak my settings all over again.
Hi Insomnia, just like my airbrush I set up my printer for one setting and leave it alone. I messed with settings and had a string of failed prints. Im not messing with them anymore! I’ll sand the finished bodies instead.😁
Really interested in this subject! Would appreciate a tutorial on ur printer setup and the process of actually printing something. Tks!
That’s a great video idea. I’ll start working on it. Thanks for watching👍
Is it just me or is sanding that 3D printed texture send shivers down my body. I’d love to print model kits but I don’t think I could handle the sanding, I don’t get that feeling with already “smooth” model kit bodies.
I really do take plastic kits for granted when you start working with printed kits. You really are invested when you’ve prepped the parts before primer. Thanks for watching 👍
Nice, more sanding! I'm working on my Aerovette and and sanding the front valance and the headlight doors were 80% gone before I noticed it. The panel lines in this car are not the best sad to say. So I'm having to remake the headlight doors with the back side of the knife. Will have to do the whole car as the primer filled all the lines... 😒
Will be nice to see how it turns out. Thanks for the Amazon order btw... Lol
I ordered some of those sticks. I don't have a hobby shop with in 100 miles, so eBay, Amazon it is... Then ya wait and wait and wait some more as it takes a week to get stuff from either... Lol Country life is awesome... Not... Lol
I like the video, so sure lets see the finish...
LLAP 🖖
Thanks for watching Bruce, I haven’t built the Aerovette but I feel your pain…
Hey James, thanks for this video. I was contemplating using sanding sticks at all?
I've been using sanding sponges, small squares of various grids of sandpaper. And
now, there's no question about it? I'm definitely getting me some of them sanding sticks
for sure! Can always use more products to help my hobby better right?
Absolutely Jeff, tools are better than new kits! Thanks for watching 👍
wow 320 grid sounded like a big no no to me, but yeah this material can handle it...thank you, very useful video ! :)
Thank you for watching and paying attention to the details of the video. I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Have u tried adjusting your antialising. The circular lines are voxels . The layer lines u can down load a test to see what type of layer lines and may be rotate part to get better print. I think its Dennis Wang does good tutorials. Also what layer height are u printing at. .03 or below would probally give good results. Enjoy your vidios.
Thanks for watching Black Dragon, I haven’t played with anti aliasing yet in the settings. I think I printed this one at .03 at an angle with a twist so some panels are very good but others not bad. I’ve seen much worse!!! lol I’ll find Dennis’ videos.
@@ScaleModelExperiment dennys wang
Thabks for the tutorial i was wondering what guys do tonget 3d printed bodies looking so smooth just lots of patience and persistence. Makes me nit ever wanna use a resin 3d printed body cause i absolutely hate sanding but dont mind it doing it to a kit body but this is to much for me
It’s the price you have to pay to get unique models of stuff that the manufacturers will never make. My prints are getting better so less sanding is required. It’s all in the setup and orientation in the slicer.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I gotcha so It is possible to get resin 3d prints with out the layer lines showing to get a nice smooth body where it's not rough
@@youknoweverything7643 there will always be layer lines, but just like Iceman’s stuff, only some panels get them. Maybe in a few years when the technology gets better the prints will be better.
@@ScaleModelExperiment so quick question do judges at model shows count against you in the overall judging for layer lines that are say under door handles or in small places where you absolutely cannot sand them out. But I see what your saying now and the point and fun of 3d printing stuff isn't the perfection but to make a model representation of something that a manufacture doesn't make body and kit wise.
@@youknoweverything7643 I don’t know about judging layer lines. I suppose that if you have a slick paint job and a good build otherwise it shouldn’t count against you in competition. Unique subjects will get the attention.
Just the video I needed to watch cause I was a little dissapointed when buying the anycubic ms5 pro with jamg he 10K resin and I got these lines and it wasn't soft and perfect as they promised, now I know what I have to do and I'm sure I'll have great models. A question: instead of sandsticks which are very difficultto get where I live could it be possible to cut and paste a piece of sandind paper on a little piece of wood to work? thanks in advance, I'mhappy with my printer but it isn't perfect, these models need our handwork yet :-)
Thanks for watching, I have a 4k printer so if you angle your parts and set the layer lines to .01 they should be almost invisible. I’ll redo this video in the future as I’ve learned a few things. yes, put some double sided tape on a stick and use regular sandpaper instead of the sticks I used.
@@ScaleModelExperiment thx for answering so instead of 0.050 I enter 0.010 in the layer 😃😃 i’ll try
@@elmaster4938 yes, it will take longer but it is time saved later. Also when you are arranging the parts in the slicer, put them so there are no surfaces that are parallel or perpendicular to the build plate.
Get yourself a jar of mr surfacer 500 to fill in the lines around the fenders.
Hi Big Jim, I’ve never tried that primer but have seen it at the store. I’ll have to get a bottle. Thanks for the tip.
@@ScaleModelExperiment you're welcome.
Fortunately, the Iceman Morgan Three Wheeler doesn't have doors. LOL
For sure JD, no panel lines to carve on that one!
The one time I worked with resin there were pinholes and I heard the dust from sanding is very caustic so I don’t work with resin much. Yours is looking real nice.👍
Thanks for watching David, I’m not a huge fan of resin either to be honest. I prefer plastic. However the stuff I print will most likely never be made in plastic so you have to work with it.
Hello this is fab but im wondering what you need to do to make the glass for the windows. I am currently making a '86 Nissan Vanette and before I go printing i want to know how I will make the "glass" seethrough
I’m still working on a good solution for windows. I’ve tried cutting clear acetate to shape and gluing it in but I don’t think that is the answer. Printing the windows in clear resin and polishing them doesn’t sound appealing either. The answer is printing bucks and vacuum forming the windows. You can watch this video I made showing the cut acetate windows and see how it looks:
th-cam.com/video/oI3kSabhUsY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=T7obqVNsuEdiZED9
@@ScaleModelExperiment I just looked up transparent 3d printing and that might be a perfect option 😄
@@ByteGuy I’ve printed headlight and small clear parts. They look amazing right off the printer but once you wash and cure them they go cloudy. You have to polish them PERFECTLY without scratches or texture to make them smell transparent.
@@ScaleModelExperiment ah ha, I've had a perfect idea, 3d print a mould of the glass needed, then pour resin into the mould and voilà! Shouldn't be too hard just 3d the glass needed and extrude into mould shape. Print it off and Pour clear resin, polish and you will get much better results than clear 3d printing resin :)
@@ByteGuy interesting… let me know how it works out.
Hello, what printer did you used for printing this? I really hope that printing resolutions going to be increased soon. There is no chance to send paper all those small cavities or area under(behind) the door handle. 😮
Hello, I used an Anycubic Mono X2 printer. I think back then I was printing at .05 layer height.
@@ScaleModelExperiment thanks for your answer.
@barulicksama3838 of course, are you in the market for a printer?
@@ScaleModelExperiment not until they print smooth surfaces without layer lines 😅
@barulicksama3838 I’ve learned a lot about printing since I made that video. With proper angles you can minimize lines.
Don't the printers check their work before sending the model? And I still see some on the roof
I printed this one myself. Total cost was $10 for the files and half a bottle of resin.
@@ScaleModelExperiment oh well. You will do it better next time. Would like to know what was the problem with the printer
I’m a beginner with using a 3d printer. No shame.
@@ScaleModelExperiment You're more couragous than me. I never bought one because I'm affraid to encounter problems. To my knowledge, It does only thgings in plastic. I have to admit that I have never really done much reserche on the 3D
@chauffeurmarco there are so many models and parts that can only be printed. I got tired of paying lots for others to print them. I’d rather save the money and deal with the prep instead.
My bodies isn't that bad
Hi Larry, what kind of printer, what resolution are you printing at? This one was at .03 on a Anycubic Mono X2 which is a 4k machine.
nice video thanks for that but you need to filter your breathing noise, that makes your video unwatchable. have a graat day.
Sorry I had a cold. I’m working on my audio for my videos👍