Same, so many things I can make by hand but it will take up so much time. Got some 3d printing services near me but they don't want to be bothered with individual customers, they make all their money from big projects for companies. I got in touch with them and they never even bothered to reply.
I would look into getting a Prusa mini, ender 3 series, or the Neptune 2. I don’t know many resin printers, but I know they are dangerous and small. Hopefully that’s what you were looking for.
I had considered resin printing models in the style of conventional model kits; this seemed a fruitless endeavour, since I was limited by the precision of available models (or lack thereof), and the ideas I had were either better catered for in existing kits, or decent 3D models were as difficult to locate as any other kit. 3D printing is good for details like those wheels you showed, where the precision is higher than can be achieved by casts and molds, but a full kit in resin would be extremely costly in time and materials.
well resin printer is 200euro and wash/cure station another 200 , and resin is 50euro a liter , so you can make 5 models in 1:18 costing you 10euro per model , actually 5 but i included that you f. up half of prints :D , paint for one model 5 colors times 3euro ... you have cost of max 20euro per model in quality of 150euro models , ok you need to add time , but if it is a hobby than you do it for pleasure ....
I admit I skipped through the vid a bit but looking at the Tesla(?) at around 5:00, I think I see a couple of issues, offhand. The bottom of the body looking lumpy: This is usually indicative of a more parallel print to the build plate facing and you can mitigate it by printing it at an angle. This helps with certain layer support challenges that cause that lumpiness (it's the thinness of the material surface moving up and down through the resin medium and not contacting the FEP as it should - imagine dropping a bed sheet to the ground while holding two corners. It's not guaranteed to contact the ground perfectly partly because of how thin it is. Printing at an an angle helps support and control the amount of surface area being printed) I'd suggest that you print the model hollow with a 'drain hole' on the top and bottom orientations. This would reduce suction and allow resin and air to move more freely through the model as the build moves up and down on the Z. It would also save you resin and relieve some unnecessary sticking challenges between the FEP and supports
I would like to see the companies that make these models embrace the 3d printing communities. Maybe, offer their model pieces as 3d files that can be downloaded at a reduced price as one example.
Be grateful for that print quality. Took me years of trial and error to dial support settings. I don't know if that was your case but at least from what I see in the video, you managed to get great result fairly quickly. Congrats on that and keep up the good work!
YES it is possible, I've done it. Just doing the final detail pass on my model that has resin 11 parts and 8 integrated brass parts for some of its moving parts.
I’ve only really seen 3D printing with resin printers as using a filament printer to be very smooth and not loose lots of detail would take such a long time it wouldn’t even be worth it. This is a great video, not only as a basic printer set up for printing models and also what can be done with a printer of this size.
I will use my FDM to make up internal parts that the resin printed parts attach to. For example, if you cut away the windows and base of the Tesla he showed, it would print and cure better, but it would be somewhat fragile. I can cut out the bottom and FDM print a box to give the car a lot of strength. But at that point, it is more like a scratch build than a kit.
I have a 3D Printer guy that printed me a 1/64 scale international scout for a diorama I was making for my Pops, took him a couple tries, but by gawd he did it and it was awesome!
A friend of mine is into Transformers and has created some custom add ons for his figures using pla plate. I helped him experiment on remaking those add ons as 3d resin prints, and the result is still far than ideal. The 3d file itself need to follow certain rules, such as to not have overlapping objects and everything need to be in one piece as a closed manifold, but even so there's no guarantee that the printed object come out without any problems like elephant foots and warping issues. It takes a lot of trial and error and more expensive than FDM printing. Cured resin is hard and stiff, not ideal for anything that require more flexibility such as creating ball joints. The upside is that it can capture an insane amount of surface detail. In model kit designs it can work as master copies for silicone molding and resin casting, but resin 3d printing's true strength is in printing statuettes and miniatures.
There are some resins that are like the flexible ABS used in some injection molded toys. Many people print with a mixture of these "tough" resins and the standard resins to get some balance and have more durable items. (e.g. gaming miniatures)
@@andy-in-indy bio resin actually have slightly more flexibility than standard uv resin but I still wouldn't recommend resin 3d printing for jointed figures.
FYI Jay Leno and his team actually scan and 3d print (out of metal) parts for old cars that cannot be purchased anymore. Quite amazing really. So there should be no reason that model kits cannot be 3D printed.
Man those prints are big! Love seeing that kind of stuff becoming more common and accessible, we are in for a wild ride over the next few years as far as printing and files go! I'll stick to my smaller printer and just doing wheels though haha! Cheers for the shoutout! More wheels coming when I do em! lol
Yeah, any obscure cars would be fun to try with 3D printing. I don’t have a resin printer so I’ll have to do a lot of sanding if I go that route, but I still want to try it.
@@Thinginator oh yeah I agree. There are so many models right now that a person could print and enjoy building. I don’t have any type of 3d printer so I’m out of luck for now but even going cheap and doing the extra sanding would be ok with me to get a chance to work on some of my dream cars. There’s even quite a few scale boats that would make my build list too.
Just 3D printed some detail parts for a diecast I'm rebuilding on Shapeways. It went alright, a lot of the tin thin bits failed, but i was expecting that. There was a lot of step lines visible but I was prepared for this too so a few coats of primer and sanding its good to be painted. Overall I wouldn't recommend 3d printing for modelling unless its a fairly flat surface that you can sand and layer with primer.
Actually for non-flat surfaces, you can minimize most layer lines if the model is oriented correctly for printing. I've designed and printed a few wheels that had almost no visible layer lines, some that don't even need sanding (just light primer).
Definitely need to hollow it and make escape holes in your slicer. ChiTuBox, or whichever should have the options. You don't want that resin leaking out on someone's hands a year from now.
I’m currently trying to make my own action figure (a non-transforming, but highly articulated transformer). It’s not going well. getting resin printed panels/sections to line up with one another is proving to be nigh impossible. If you are printing a car body in multiple sections, and are able to make them line up, please share your black magic with me. Thanks.
there's a print you can do called landy mini, its basically just a land rover. I'm not sure if it will work with a resin printer, since it is designed for a filament printer (idk the name).
Problem I am at is which is better? Resin or the PLA? I think pla is stronger which is cool for other builds but for scale models, Resin gets better detail?
Are you taking supports off before you cure it? Asking because they come off way easier and without leaving holes usually if you remove them before curing.
I was thinking of getting a scanner and scanning actual 3d model kits like you'd buy from the store. Mainly cause some of those models are extremely expensive. I saw a couple that were 500+ for a 35th scale plastic model.
Handheld scanning is still in early days. The best thing to do is to scan a larger object and print it in a smaller scale. This is because scanning a 1/24 scale object at .1 mm resolution means that you could have a panel that looks pock marked, as if the original vehicle had been hit by hail.
@@andy-in-indy ^_^ I know. I like the hail look idea for "apocalypse" and abandoned looking models. I was thinking more along the lines of the ciclop scanner rather then something hand held. Least until I can sell the dioramas and save up for the polyga compact s1 with its .04 mm resolution...i only need to make 6 grand for that one lol.
Well, this is a lengthy discussion.... The problem is these online car models come from 3d modeling software, and although they are available in STL format,. They are intended to be computer models. Model kits are difficult to make with modeling software (3ds max, Blender,....etc). CAD Software is the proper tool to create a kit. However, CAD software can read STL, but there ability to modify STL is limited. So the only possibility is to recreate the surfaces in CAD software based on the STL files available, exactly as model companies do with 3d scans of actual cars. I tried this twice. Once with an Alfa Romeo Carabo (built from scratch), the second when I was (and still) pissed off with the Revell jaguar E type kit. I managed to create the outer surfaces, but creating a body shell from them didn't work. These CAD software are so powerful that almost nobody can master all their capabilities. Until I get over this point my answer to the question in title will be:no. Hopefully I can convert it to yes. PS: there is a Facebook user who is making kits of mostly US boxy cars of the eighties using CAD and 3d printing. His answer would by yes.
well, my printer is arrivign today and the biggest reason for me to get it was to be able to print full kits of cars that aren't available as kits, so will see how it goes. I have a lot of 3d experience so that shouldn't be huge issue , but I can also already see how complex this process is going to be , as I was playing with slicer
@@dominik6407 did few tests, started building one of a more complete model for print but things were getting bit complex so I changed it to something bit more easier to do what's really tricking me is when I work on the model, I try to make things in realistic scale, but when it's printed out, lot of the struts / details end up being too thin, so I need to learn to compensate for thickness of things when printed in scale really like it so far! for more simple things , like making new rims / tires, its' really great , managed to print rims at 1/43 scale as well, and they look amazing, not sure how this will like me posting a link here, but I do have some photos on my google account , but probably best to drop me an email and I'd be happy to share some photos
Anything 3D printed is like putting together someone's garage kit. You should always expect it to be extra work, with some details being incredible, and others looking like raw hamburger. However, it is the best way to get some things that were never really made or are no longer available. And a little skill in some free 3D modeling software (Blender, FreeCAD, Fusion 360 or even TinkerCAD) goes a long way towards fixing and adding details.
I have so many questions about the whole printing system I'd love to see an entire series on this kind of process before I spend money on a printer myself. I'd like to see what computer requirements are needed since I'll be needing one eventually, learn about scanning and scaling parts and much, much more. Are you planning on buying a scanner, costs, how to use, etc. since I'm not that tech friendly. I have quite a few ideas for use in both modeling and slot car racing. How durable are the resin(s) being used, what types to possibly use and so on. Would need for the slots something impact resist that could take a hit without crumbling. Circle track, road, drag bodies. Also want to play around with scaling up armor for 24th scale tanks since 99% of it is 72nd or 35th. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The computer requirements are all up to you, and the 3d software you want to use. The printers slicing software is not that heavy, so to speak. Scanning i have no info about. As this is not really available to something that either works(properly) or is not super expensive. Scanning is a whole different ball game. Realisticly, if your not that good with computers(like me..) scanning and modeling might be a bit to complicated to start doing if you have no experiance. The resin is perfectly fine for static models. But for racing it can shatter in to pieces in the first crash. There are more flexible resins. But those are pretty much rubber.
I tried to make a Triumph Bonneville 1/18 with my Photon. Files made on Solidworks by me. Well....the printer is able to print very tiny pieces ( I was able to print the wheels complete with itheir spokes !) but they are very fragile as well, further 4 prints on 10 fail.... very frustrating. A Lot of work, a lot of hours of print. The printer when it works is quite sharp anyway..
It is 100% possible. But you need to know how to work with solid objects in 3D and as it's mentioned - how to print them. There's no guarantee that good looking part on the screen is going to be as good looking in the real assembly after being printed. Especially in 43 scale, while 24 scale is pretty easy to sand.
I print 1.18 scale in one go not in parts but yes there is programs that help you put in door lines yes there are files that have been rushed and put on line I my self have asked the uploaders to redo the cars with door boot bonnet lines
I designed, printed, painted and assembled an 80-piece kit of a 2008 Yamaha FZ6 for my son last Christmas. I used Fusion360 (free to hobbyists!) and printed on the Elegoo Mars in white: imgur.com/gallery/cWTDk1a
@@ronniesmith7540 thanks! I am no expert in 3d modeling, so part of the 200 hours I spent creating the 3d model was learning and practicing sculpting. I the spent about 50 hours printing, painting and assembling. Start on something easier, but it is a great exte sion to the hobby.i already have other ideas in mind.
Its been a long wile but i went to thingiverse and found a model of a A-10 (prob 3 years old now) model that you can print then put together I made it with a FDM printer
Very interesting! I’ve been thinking about this too. I have quite a bit of 3D modeling experience, feel free to reach out if you need help. I’d certainly be interested in this.
Dec. 9, 2022----Thanks for this video. As for me, got back into modeling after 20 years but now going for realistic (NO Mad Max look) 1/35 scale zombie/apocalypse dioramas. Problem is, there's a SERIOUS lack of modern stuff. But since I got to looking, have about 5-6K worth of files, including D&D stuff because my nephew is into playing the game. HOWEVER, cad has been kicking my butt as I've got more than one military kit which comes with NO interior such as the Strykers. Have 2 resin printers I got from Ebay...one used, one new. Bought the new one simply because it's got a bigger build plate. Also looking at having better interiors for my diecast vehicles in 1/32 and 1/36 scales. Like the VW vans I've got have L shapes for seats. Not realistic at all.
What one would you recommend for someone thats not very good on pc computers and never used a 3D printer thats also ok to have and sit in same room as i heard ekegoo Mars. But can u reccoment a easy to follow instructions that arent really for the pro on a computer im not really tec savy so hoping to get affordable safe to use in hobby room i sit in and pets do be in i dont want to be breathing in toxixc smells id like one thats freindly indoors if u know what i mean i do appreciate it if u could help me, 👍 i want it to do wheels and figurs
All of these printers require some know how on the computer and of 3d software. Using water washable resin would be the “safest bet” but i would still suggest to have good ventilation in the room. And to keep it away from pets or children.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel just search 1/24 or 1/25 scale, I've used printed engines in a couple of my models. Watch my videos of my custom camaro the twin turbo engine is printed. There is a lot of automotive stuff on there you can browse for hours.
Hey can you make toyota corolla ke36 station wagon models car ? It is imposible to find one anywhere.. if you can sell it im sure everyone love to buy it .. pleaseee 🙏🙏🙏
I follow several group pages on Facebook for modeling and one of the guys on there 3d prints all his stuff to build models and allows people to go on a website to download free software to 3d print the stuff he does
As you already know, 3D printing is great for the hobby. And the "pros" outweigh the "cons" for sure. The bad part is we see a lot of people producing stl files that are not very well done. A lot! As for a full on kit? Who knows if that will happen. The only real benifit is the ability to 3D print inaccurate parts or missing pieces to currant and rare kits. I even designed and printed a part for a project of an intake manifold that has never been offered in any form. Kit or otherwise. So a person only needs to search and weed out the bad designs to find those great parts. Like that wire rim you shared. Tip: Hollow out the part and add drain holes if they are solid when dealing with large parts. Just make sure to add cleaning solution the the inside after.
Iceman Collectables on Instagram prints and sells full kits and trans kits. His latest project is a Widebody Redeye Challenger. So it is without a doubt possible to do a kit with a 3D printer.
@@insomniahobbies it's only by chance I knew myself, I was looking for printable kits that morning and I stumbled across his site as ya do once you enter the rabbit hole 😂
The one thing this guy did wrong in this video is not put a screen protector on that printer. These machines have been notorious for leaking resin and destroying the screens.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel pm me here and we can start talking. I do 3D comissions all the time, fixing broken stl files, sculpting new miniatures, and i have a 69 dodge charger in the Works, a full model kit that is.
Yeah... you need to have drain holes in the file to drain the resin while printing. However, considering what you were printing... there really wasn't anywhere to put drain holes, was there? Interesting. But if someone did design a kit to be printed and they were serious, they wouldn't do the heavy single block with body/interior/wheel attachments as one, negating the need for drain holes completely in most cases.
Oh man... I need a 3D printer like, BADLY. It would help all 37 hobbies I have lol
Same, so many things I can make by hand but it will take up so much time.
Got some 3d printing services near me but they don't want to be bothered with individual customers, they make all their money from big projects for companies.
I got in touch with them and they never even bothered to reply.
1. Cars
2. Vehicles
3. Automotives transports
I would look into getting a Prusa mini, ender 3 series, or the Neptune 2. I don’t know many resin printers, but I know they are dangerous and small. Hopefully that’s what you were looking for.
Buy one.
It always bemuses me how some people keep working after retirement age because they "have nothing to do".
USB try / flip gave me a chuckle 😄
I know there's alot of stuff for tank modeling. Cars, trucks not so much. As you said best results start with a great file.
Shapeways.com has a lot of printed automotive stuff.
These are very nice informations. I see so many potential for wire wheels, especially for pre war cars. Very nice!
That Land Rover Defender front end looks great! I've heard so many people saying they want to build one in 1/24 instead of the Series 3.
I had considered resin printing models in the style of conventional model kits; this seemed a fruitless endeavour, since I was limited by the precision of available models (or lack thereof), and the ideas I had were either better catered for in existing kits, or decent 3D models were as difficult to locate as any other kit.
3D printing is good for details like those wheels you showed, where the precision is higher than can be achieved by casts and molds, but a full kit in resin would be extremely costly in time and materials.
well resin printer is 200euro and wash/cure station another 200 , and resin is 50euro a liter , so you can make 5 models in 1:18 costing you 10euro per model , actually 5 but i included that you f. up half of prints :D , paint for one model 5 colors times 3euro ... you have cost of max 20euro per model in quality of 150euro models , ok you need to add time , but if it is a hobby than you do it for pleasure ....
I admit I skipped through the vid a bit but looking at the Tesla(?) at around 5:00, I think I see a couple of issues, offhand. The bottom of the body looking lumpy: This is usually indicative of a more parallel print to the build plate facing and you can mitigate it by printing it at an angle. This helps with certain layer support challenges that cause that lumpiness (it's the thinness of the material surface moving up and down through the resin medium and not contacting the FEP as it should - imagine dropping a bed sheet to the ground while holding two corners. It's not guaranteed to contact the ground perfectly partly because of how thin it is. Printing at an an angle helps support and control the amount of surface area being printed)
I'd suggest that you print the model hollow with a 'drain hole' on the top and bottom orientations. This would reduce suction and allow resin and air to move more freely through the model as the build moves up and down on the Z. It would also save you resin and relieve some unnecessary sticking challenges between the FEP and supports
I would like to see the companies that make these models embrace the 3d printing communities. Maybe, offer their model pieces as 3d files that can be downloaded at a reduced price as one example.
Be grateful for that print quality. Took me years of trial and error to dial support settings. I don't know if that was your case but at least from what I see in the video, you managed to get great result fairly quickly. Congrats on that and keep up the good work!
Thats how i was with my pla printer
i just received my Anycubic Photon Mono X, so this is perfect! :)
I’m planning on using it for making some fictional steam locomotives in kit form.
Have you seen Plasmo 3d printing the entire War Rig from Mad Max? Not sure if that postapo fits your taste but man, that was such an impressive build
I have. That was insane.
100% not my type of build. But super cool to see him build it non the less
Thanks for showing the capabilities of the 3D printer for model building 🐭👍
YES it is possible, I've done it. Just doing the final detail pass on my model that has resin 11 parts and 8 integrated brass parts for some of its moving parts.
I’ve only really seen 3D printing with resin printers as using a filament printer to be very smooth and not loose lots of detail would take such a long time it wouldn’t even be worth it. This is a great video, not only as a basic printer set up for printing models and also what can be done with a printer of this size.
I will use my FDM to make up internal parts that the resin printed parts attach to. For example, if you cut away the windows and base of the Tesla he showed, it would print and cure better, but it would be somewhat fragile. I can cut out the bottom and FDM print a box to give the car a lot of strength. But at that point, it is more like a scratch build than a kit.
I just print the full body hollowed with two holes. Painting is the difficult part to me, im still learning, it´s a process.
I have a 3D Printer guy that printed me a 1/64 scale international scout for a diorama I was making for my Pops, took him a couple tries, but by gawd he did it and it was awesome!
Would love to see complete models done on the 3D printer as I'm thinking about getting one
A friend of mine is into Transformers and has created some custom add ons for his figures using pla plate. I helped him experiment on remaking those add ons as 3d resin prints, and the result is still far than ideal. The 3d file itself need to follow certain rules, such as to not have overlapping objects and everything need to be in one piece as a closed manifold, but even so there's no guarantee that the printed object come out without any problems like elephant foots and warping issues. It takes a lot of trial and error and more expensive than FDM printing. Cured resin is hard and stiff, not ideal for anything that require more flexibility such as creating ball joints. The upside is that it can capture an insane amount of surface detail. In model kit designs it can work as master copies for silicone molding and resin casting, but resin 3d printing's true strength is in printing statuettes and miniatures.
There are some resins that are like the flexible ABS used in some injection molded toys. Many people print with a mixture of these "tough" resins and the standard resins to get some balance and have more durable items. (e.g. gaming miniatures)
@@andy-in-indy bio resin actually have slightly more flexibility than standard uv resin but I still wouldn't recommend resin 3d printing for jointed figures.
FYI Jay Leno and his team actually scan and 3d print (out of metal) parts for old cars that cannot be purchased anymore. Quite amazing really. So there should be no reason that model kits cannot be 3D printed.
I’ve found I can put holes before printing during the slicing and it helps with the oozing
So what I'm understanding is the file was great 👍
Pretty much👌
Man those prints are big! Love seeing that kind of stuff becoming more common and accessible, we are in for a wild ride over the next few years as far as printing and files go! I'll stick to my smaller printer and just doing wheels though haha! Cheers for the shoutout! More wheels coming when I do em! lol
Gotta make big prints, or the small parts will have to be discarded
This would be fantastic for Art Deco style cars since models of them seem to be non existent. Very cool!
Yeah, any obscure cars would be fun to try with 3D printing. I don’t have a resin printer so I’ll have to do a lot of sanding if I go that route, but I still want to try it.
@@Thinginator oh yeah I agree. There are so many models right now that a person could print and enjoy building. I don’t have any type of 3d printer so I’m out of luck for now but even going cheap and doing the extra sanding would be ok with me to get a chance to work on some of my dream cars. There’s even quite a few scale boats that would make my build list too.
Just 3D printed some detail parts for a diecast I'm rebuilding on Shapeways. It went alright, a lot of the tin thin bits failed, but i was expecting that. There was a lot of step lines visible but I was prepared for this too so a few coats of primer and sanding its good to be painted. Overall I wouldn't recommend 3d printing for modelling unless its a fairly flat surface that you can sand and layer with primer.
Actually for non-flat surfaces, you can minimize most layer lines if the model is oriented correctly for printing. I've designed and printed a few wheels that had almost no visible layer lines, some that don't even need sanding (just light primer).
Definitely need to hollow it and make escape holes in your slicer. ChiTuBox, or whichever should have the options. You don't want that resin leaking out on someone's hands a year from now.
I’m currently trying to make my own action figure (a non-transforming, but highly articulated transformer). It’s not going well. getting resin printed panels/sections to line up with one another is proving to be nigh impossible. If you are printing a car body in multiple sections, and are able to make them line up, please share your black magic with me. Thanks.
there's a print you can do called landy mini, its basically just a land rover. I'm not sure if it will work with a resin printer, since it is designed for a filament printer (idk the name).
Problem I am at is which is better? Resin or the PLA? I think pla is stronger which is cool for other builds but for scale models, Resin gets better detail?
You are spot on
Are you taking supports off before you cure it? Asking because they come off way easier and without leaving holes usually if you remove them before curing.
Yes. Before curing
What about printing molds/casts for some other material and mass-producing model kits?
You are a genius with this technology.
I was thinking of getting a scanner and scanning actual 3d model kits like you'd buy from the store. Mainly cause some of those models are extremely expensive. I saw a couple that were 500+ for a 35th scale plastic model.
Handheld scanning is still in early days. The best thing to do is to scan a larger object and print it in a smaller scale. This is because scanning a 1/24 scale object at .1 mm resolution means that you could have a panel that looks pock marked, as if the original vehicle had been hit by hail.
@@andy-in-indy ^_^ I know. I like the hail look idea for "apocalypse" and abandoned looking models. I was thinking more along the lines of the ciclop scanner rather then something hand held. Least until I can sell the dioramas and save up for the polyga compact s1 with its .04 mm resolution...i only need to make 6 grand for that one lol.
Well, this is a lengthy discussion....
The problem is these online car models come from 3d modeling software, and although they are available in STL format,. They are intended to be computer models. Model kits are difficult to make with modeling software (3ds max, Blender,....etc). CAD Software is the proper tool to create a kit. However, CAD software can read STL, but there ability to modify STL is limited. So the only possibility is to recreate the surfaces in CAD software based on the STL files available, exactly as model companies do with 3d scans of actual cars. I tried this twice. Once with an Alfa Romeo Carabo (built from scratch), the second when I was (and still) pissed off with the Revell jaguar E type kit. I managed to create the outer surfaces, but creating a body shell from them didn't work. These CAD software are so powerful that almost nobody can master all their capabilities. Until I get over this point my answer to the question in title will be:no. Hopefully I can convert it to yes.
PS: there is a Facebook user who is making kits of mostly US boxy cars of the eighties using CAD and 3d printing. His answer would by yes.
well, my printer is arrivign today and the biggest reason for me to get it was to be able to print full kits of cars that aren't available as kits, so will see how it goes. I have a lot of 3d experience so that shouldn't be huge issue , but I can also already see how complex this process is going to be , as I was playing with slicer
Once you get over the learning curve, you’ll never want to be without one of these!
Patrik and how’s your printing? Are you satisfied? Did you make some car prints?
@@dominik6407 did few tests, started building one of a more complete model for print but things were getting bit complex so I changed it to something bit more easier to do
what's really tricking me is when I work on the model, I try to make things in realistic scale, but when it's printed out, lot of the struts / details end up being too thin, so I need to learn to compensate for thickness of things when printed in scale
really like it so far! for more simple things , like making new rims / tires, its' really great , managed to print rims at 1/43 scale as well, and they look amazing,
not sure how this will like me posting a link here, but I do have some photos on my google account , but probably best to drop me an email and I'd be happy to share some photos
Are there any FILES for Classic cars? (Chevy Impala 1960’s)
Which Slicer Software do you use?
Thesebdays i use Chitubox
I have the exact same printer, just setting up today 🙂
I had to get a heater to go in my orinter
How much roughly did it cost in materials (resin) to print a 1/24 body? Many thanks 👍
9:40 is promising for 3-D printing of models… looks nice
Would be great if you could show the process of how you sliced the body, angled it, added supports and set it up to print on your printer. Thanks
Anything 3D printed is like putting together someone's garage kit. You should always expect it to be extra work, with some details being incredible, and others looking like raw hamburger. However, it is the best way to get some things that were never really made or are no longer available. And a little skill in some free 3D modeling software (Blender, FreeCAD, Fusion 360 or even TinkerCAD) goes a long way towards fixing and adding details.
I have so many questions about the whole printing system I'd love to see an entire series on this kind of process before I spend money on a printer myself. I'd like to see what computer requirements are needed since I'll be needing one eventually, learn about scanning and scaling parts and much, much more. Are you planning on buying a scanner, costs, how to use, etc. since I'm not that tech friendly. I have quite a few ideas for use in both modeling and slot car racing. How durable are the resin(s) being used, what types to possibly use and so on. Would need for the slots something impact resist that could take a hit without crumbling. Circle track, road, drag bodies. Also want to play around with scaling up armor for 24th scale tanks since 99% of it is 72nd or 35th. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The computer requirements are all up to you, and the 3d software you want to use. The printers slicing software is not that heavy, so to speak.
Scanning i have no info about. As this is not really available to something that either works(properly) or is not super expensive. Scanning is a whole different ball game.
Realisticly, if your not that good with computers(like me..) scanning and modeling might be a bit to complicated to start doing if you have no experiance.
The resin is perfectly fine for static models. But for racing it can shatter in to pieces in the first crash. There are more flexible resins. But those are pretty much rubber.
Considering you levelled the machine, that resin wasn't very level when poured?
I leveled the printbed. Not the machine ;)
I tried to make a Triumph Bonneville 1/18 with my Photon. Files made on Solidworks by me. Well....the printer is able to print very tiny pieces ( I was able to print the wheels complete with itheir spokes !) but they are very fragile as well, further 4 prints on 10 fail.... very frustrating. A Lot of work, a lot of hours of print. The printer when it works is quite sharp anyway..
It is 100% possible. But you need to know how to work with solid objects in 3D and as it's mentioned - how to print them. There's no guarantee that good looking part on the screen is going to be as good looking in the real assembly after being printed. Especially in 43 scale, while 24 scale is pretty easy to sand.
Ive been trying to find out what glue cement etc. to use on 3d printed plastic parts
2 part epoxy. Or CA glue
Late question here could I scan a production model kit and then 3d print it? For my use only,
Its not that simple. Scanning is not good enough.
The Lamborghini was the inspiration for the G.I.Joe VAMP vehicle made for the 3.75" action figures in the 80's.
Lamborghini Cheetah! I am hope to build a 1/6 scale version to display with some 12" GI Joes.
I do model building and would like the try 3D printing for car part and bodys to
I print 1.18 scale in one go not in parts but yes there is programs that help you put in door lines yes there are files that have been rushed and put on line I my self have asked the uploaders to redo the cars with door boot bonnet lines
Buy a 3D Printer Filament Dryer Box, the printing effect is better
Pretty awesome!
Great video. Thanks for sharing those 3d sites.
I designed, printed, painted and assembled an 80-piece kit of a 2008 Yamaha FZ6 for my son last Christmas. I used Fusion360 (free to hobbyists!) and printed on the Elegoo Mars in white: imgur.com/gallery/cWTDk1a
Amazing! Well done sir👌👌
Man, thats insane!
That is seriously cool. 3D modeling and printing like that is one of the best things to happen to scratch building models!
That was an awesome cycle! how long did it take?
@@ronniesmith7540 thanks! I am no expert in 3d modeling, so part of the 200 hours I spent creating the 3d model was learning and practicing sculpting. I the spent about 50 hours printing, painting and assembling. Start on something easier, but it is a great exte sion to the hobby.i already have other ideas in mind.
Can you made clear windows for model cars 125 scale
If only someone would put out a 1/48 scale U.S. Navy Catapult kit for aircraft.
Did you try hollow model and add small holes of 1-2mm for resin to drain
Yes
Would like to see a unimog u400
I did this but with a fdm printer it actually turned out okay
Would you sale some design bodies like the jeep ties rims undercarriage interior parts from the first jurassic Park film
Aint there files for actual model kits, in the sense of the classic box of spruce with the parts on them that you clip off & glue together?
I have not seen those
Try hollowing the model and making holes in Chitubox.
Interesting video as this technology becomes more popular.
Hey I wanted some 3d parts to put on that same Revell 1/24 Land Rover defender I would need the front and fenders how can I contact you?
Sorry, i do not have these available for sale. C1 models is coming out with lots of parts soon, check them out ;)
Rapaz essa impressora gasta muita matéria prima, tem como usar essa rebarba toda ou vai para o lixo, e é muito louco a modo de impressão, é massa!!!
I would save all that trestle too.Good prop stuff.
That plug is different. are they a high voltage requirement, or is that for your region?
European plug
Its been a long wile but i went to thingiverse and found a model of a A-10 (prob 3 years old now) model that you can print then put together I made it with a FDM printer
I was looking for a lamborghini lm002 replica of the same size since 17 years.
Very interesting! I’ve been thinking about this too. I have quite a bit of 3D modeling experience, feel free to reach out if you need help. I’d certainly be interested in this.
Dec. 9, 2022----Thanks for this video. As for me, got back into modeling after 20 years but now going for realistic (NO Mad Max look) 1/35 scale zombie/apocalypse dioramas. Problem is, there's a SERIOUS lack of modern stuff. But since I got to looking, have about 5-6K worth of files, including D&D stuff because my nephew is into playing the game. HOWEVER, cad has been kicking my butt as I've got more than one military kit which comes with NO interior such as the Strykers. Have 2 resin printers I got from Ebay...one used, one new. Bought the new one simply because it's got a bigger build plate. Also looking at having better interiors for my diecast vehicles in 1/32 and 1/36 scales. Like the VW vans I've got have L shapes for seats. Not realistic at all.
What one would you recommend for someone thats not very good on pc computers and never used a 3D printer thats also ok to have and sit in same room as i heard ekegoo Mars. But can u reccoment a easy to follow instructions that arent really for the pro on a computer im not really tec savy so hoping to get affordable safe to use in hobby room i sit in and pets do be in i dont want to be breathing in toxixc smells id like one thats freindly indoors if u know what i mean i do appreciate it if u could help me, 👍 i want it to do wheels and figurs
All of these printers require some know how on the computer and of 3d software. Using water washable resin would be the “safest bet” but i would still suggest to have good ventilation in the room. And to keep it away from pets or children.
But, what is the scale of this models? Cuz I need VW t1 or T2 body. It is for the project, and I need just a body :)
I looked up the size of the 1:1 and scaled it down to a rough 1:24
Have you seen all the printed model car stuff on shapeways.com?
I have not. Do you have any links?
@@TheScalemodelingChannel just search 1/24 or 1/25 scale, I've used printed engines in a couple of my models. Watch my videos of my custom camaro the twin turbo engine is printed. There is a lot of automotive stuff on there you can browse for hours.
Japan Model is use the Big Iron to make the model kit, just like GUNPLA
from where did U get those rims shown @ 11:19 ??
11:29 links are in the description
@@TheScalemodelingChannel thx, didn't noticed it on mobile.
My question, are you using a mask when you sand? I saw Jenic on line uses a an extraction hole built into his work surface, which i thought was cool.
I’ve seen it a lot on japanese channels too. I might want to add it to my bench aswell.
Hey can you make toyota corolla ke36 station wagon models car ? It is imposible to find one anywhere.. if you can sell it im sure everyone love to buy it .. pleaseee 🙏🙏🙏
Do the supports use more material than the model? Just seems a wasteful process!
It feels like a waste. Wich it kind of is. But without the supports the model won’t print properly. So its a win or lose kind of thing
I follow several group pages on Facebook for modeling and one of the guys on there 3d prints all his stuff to build models and allows people to go on a website to download free software to 3d print the stuff he does
Do you have a link? Sounds very interesting!
@@TheScalemodelingChannel i can look it up for you when I get home no problem
This one is not free i believe but its one of them I found quickly for you to check out 3dmodelspecialties.com
I was looking at getting this one!!
In for 3D print build!!
Nice vid!!!!!!
My question is this, can you use a 3D scanner to scan a car mode kit, like Johan
And have the printer reproduce the entire kit piece by piece ?
Sadly no, you will need 3d modeling skills to refine the scanned files
how much that bottle of gew cost?
mine was $16 on Amazon
Very cool video
So ? Is the file great? :)
Hard to tell😅
As you already know, 3D printing is great for the hobby. And the "pros" outweigh the "cons" for sure. The bad part is we see a lot of people producing stl files that are not very well done. A lot!
As for a full on kit? Who knows if that will happen. The only real benifit is the ability to 3D print inaccurate parts or missing pieces to currant and rare kits. I even designed and printed a part for a project of an intake manifold that has never been offered in any form. Kit or otherwise. So a person only needs to search and weed out the bad designs to find those great parts. Like that wire rim you shared.
Tip: Hollow out the part and add drain holes if they are solid when dealing with large parts. Just make sure to add cleaning solution the the inside after.
can u print body kit nissan gtr r35 liberty walk silhoette
If you have a file. You can print it.
The Defender front end is good , but the door handles and roof will still be 109 . Bit of a Land Rover nerd sorry😞
Can you make the Hoonicorn v1 and v2 bodykits?
That is way above my skill level
Iceman Collectables on Instagram prints and sells full kits and trans kits. His latest project is a Widebody Redeye Challenger. So it is without a doubt possible to do a kit with a 3D printer.
Iceman collections 👍
@@onemansjunk01 I knew I was close.....just too lazy to go verify the name.
@@insomniahobbies it's only by chance I knew myself, I was looking for printable kits that morning and I stumbled across his site as ya do once you enter the rabbit hole 😂
muito top
Cool !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
2:11 is it just me or is it impossible to get a USB in first try? lol
Awesome
The one thing this guy did wrong in this video is not put a screen protector on that printer. These machines have been notorious for leaking resin and destroying the screens.
hello! I print wheels on the same printer for my models, which I myself make in maya. Write to me if you need any wheels.
I run 3d printing service, and i am a professional 3d designer. I can help
Nice! Would love to see what we could do!
@@TheScalemodelingChannel pm me here and we can start talking. I do 3D comissions all the time, fixing broken stl files, sculpting new miniatures, and i have a 69 dodge charger in the Works, a full model kit that is.
The PM function on youtube no longer exists. Could you send me an email? Or share your info?
Info@thescalemodelingchannel.com
Yeah... you need to have drain holes in the file to drain the resin while printing. However, considering what you were printing... there really
wasn't anywhere to put drain holes, was there? Interesting. But if someone did design a kit to be printed and they were serious, they wouldn't do
the heavy single block with body/interior/wheel attachments as one, negating the need for drain holes completely in most cases.