I just found these guys today. They happen to have a stl of a Chevy luv pickup. I have been trying to scan my real truck so I could print it. They just saved me a ton of time and money. Not to mention the files are a lot cheaper then I would have expected. This is how Rc should be. Best place to have them reviewed is by a great builder who is also about the hobby and not the money.
Really pleased with how these bodies are coming along. All the sanding and filling gets tiring but I'm finally about ready to get them mounted and painted (aka the fun part). On that note, I'm still not 100% sure what color/theme I want for each body. I've got some ideas but nothing is set in stone. Any ideas? I've finally got some new build videos that are coming along nicely that I can't wait to share with you all soon.
@@jrduenas3678 The quality of the print and the material you use will make an impact on durability. I'd imagine that the infill will also have a significant impact as well. The bodies I printed could probable handle a pretty big fall or rough trail driving just as good if not better than a lot of plastic hard bodies that are more common. Certainly wouldn't recommend it for any serious bashing though.
Xtc-3d is my go to for finishing 3d prints. 2 part epoxy. Mix for 1 min, Apply with foam brush (maybe 2 coats). After a few hours its sandable with 400 grit and pretty smooth afterwards
Get yourself a Gator brand foam sanding block. It has a micro Velcro system to hold on the paper. You will love it and it really helps with sanding large flat areas.
General tip, you could have saved alot of PLA if you reduced the support density. There is really no need for that much supports. Using 12 to 15% support density is about the sweet spot, you can go even lower if your printer has good bridging capabilities or if you can set a "support roof" that will add a couple layers of 100% density support only at the top !
TheRandomizedvids GUY I started using the support roof on some small to medium overhangs with good results. Most of the time the supports snapped off easier and in one piece instead of a bunch. Another option is Cura has conical supports. Small at the base and builds up towards the top. Takes more time but a huge difference in support material
Hell yea! Thanks for posting this I’ve been looking for a video like this for months. I just ordered the printer in the link and the reason I’ve been wanting to get one is for that f250 body in the video. I have a real 73 f250 and want to make my rc (scx10) just like it. And now that I’m getting it I’m going to all kinds of stuff.
impressed im very new to 3d printing ordered my first printer and 3 rolls of filament my main intent is to print stuff for my 1/14 rc semis and 1/10 cars,etc expecting delivery of my printer next week cant wait what size bed does these bodies need?
Do they only offer these as an STL? It would be nice to jet STEP or OBJ files to put a lot of these parts into Fusion360 and combine them into fewer parts and less piecing together on a large format printer. STLs are doable, but a PITA to work with. Nice work on the vid!
7:42 Using ABS and acetone vapour to smooth your print, won''t do a whole lot of good when you're printing at a .3 layer height. Acetone smoothing works best on layers that are less than .2 in height. Using taller/thicker layers will only make it harder to get a smoothed look, because it would require way more time for the vapours to do it's thing.... and by the time it does on a .3, the rest of the model's body could become rather soft.
copyright does not typically apply to vehicle designs under the 'common item' clause. however, trade marks are still protected, which is why they don't use the manufacturer's name, etc.
If you heat up the nozzle prior ro swapping it out it is much easier. As for glueing the parts together. make yourself some liquid Styrene in a glass jar. Buy a container of MEK, pour in jar, cut up some Styrene sheets and let the mek melt the styrene. It is good to glue and use as filler and you can adjust the viscosity to your liking. You can also use it to mould parts if needed. #giveaway
Nice project. for when u change nozzle. u need to preheat the nozzle to 250c to remove it easy. and also when u put a new nozzle back. heat it up to 250c and then tighten it. otherwize u may get a lozzle nozzle and it will start to leak out of the heatblock and travel up on the heatblock. and that´s a pain to clean. just a tip :)
Whats crazy is that i was just checking out their website a few days ago, i was a little hesitant since they didn't have any pictures of their files printed so i can see how well it translated over after its printed. This video helped me tremendously so thank you and keep up the good work! #GIVEAWAY
Nice, I'm just looking at getting a larger FDM printer so I can start printing my own custom RC bodies. The Ender 3 Pro just isn't big enough... Interested to know what slicer you use, the supports look so much easier to remove than what I get with Cura v4.4. Did the 0.3mm vs 0.4mm nozzle help in this regard?
@@90sarcadefighter5 Yes, bought a Creality CR-10 v2 with BLTouch auto bed leveler... plus I also have a couple of resin printers now. I print more accessories than bodies. The last one I did was a 1/10 Winnebago Brave.
@@paulblythe5899 nice! Thanks for the quick answer. after pretty much learning and watching all day ive settled on an CR 10s pro v2. i have a mint shell to print! what would you say in your experience is the best material to use for RC shells? (nitro)
@@90sarcadefighter5 Nitro's get hot, so probably ABS, but you'd need a temp-controlled chamber for your printer to properly print ABS... The next best would be PETG, which prints easily like PLA, but with a slightly higher hot-end temp, and a heated bed.
@@paulblythe5899 I had read and kinda settled on PETG but cannot get enough opinions. When you printed your 1/10 Winnebago, on the cr10 i presume, was it printed in 2 pieces I gather?
My needs for a 3D printer are pretty specific because of the final surface finish I need. I really do not know what type and brand of printer to deliver. For now I have joined a 3D printer group on Facebook and follow it along. I hope I can get my question and needs answered in 6 months.
OMG that is so cool to see new body's for 1/10 RC I think i have a idea with the pathfinder body why don't you make it Baja 1000 racer form the 90s it look very retro and no one has done anything like it before do you agree with me MAKE it RC and thank you for head up on next projects on this channel it going to be amazing 2019 year i can't wait so please hurry up now.
It will take much long but you'd get a better print at a lower layer height, and 100% infill, less lines and much smoother transitions to deal with. I use a ANET ET4 Pro and print at a 0.06 layer height, with a raft and 100% infill, and 35% support angle.
Door panel gaps are too thin. Would also expect more print-friendly partitioning and orientation, especially where partitions can be hidden by body lines where they would be on a full size vehicle.
Thank you for the opportunity! I just bought a 3d printer (ender 3 pro) and the first thing im gonna print is some 1/10 rc crawler accesories!! #giveaway
Hey make it rc I’m currently trying to build a miniature drift car and was wondering if you sell chassis or something like that for a reasonable prices I don’t have a lot of money because I am not of legal age to work so the cheaper the better
Using wood filler or plastic filler putty instead of epoxy makes gap filling much easier when assembling 3D printed plastic parts. You can also use it for highly "stair stepped" parts to get a great smooth finish on PLA parts. #giveaway
really enjoy your work sir been binge watching your videos now in preparation for my own project. I had a quick question do you know how long it takes to print one of these files? on average? the website you recommended has some incredible bodies and I want to pick up a file but I don't own a 3d printer yet so would need to take it to my local print shop, they charge by hour so I was trying to figure out roughly how much it might end up costing.
I'm glad your enjoying the videos. The time it takes depends on the printer settings and assumes that there will be no issues that require a part to be reprinted. I think in total for one body, it took around 20-30 hours of printing. I'm sure with different settings and orientation it could go faster, however I'd rather have the print time be longer and spend less time doing post print finishing work. I hope this information is helpful, good luck with your project.
I just found these guys today. They happen to have a stl of a Chevy luv pickup. I have been trying to scan my real truck so I could print it. They just saved me a ton of time and money. Not to mention the files are a lot cheaper then I would have expected. This is how Rc should be. Best place to have them reviewed is by a great builder who is also about the hobby and not the money.
Really pleased with how these bodies are coming along. All the sanding and filling gets tiring but I'm finally about ready to get them mounted and painted (aka the fun part). On that note, I'm still not 100% sure what color/theme I want for each body. I've got some ideas but nothing is set in stone. Any ideas? I've finally got some new build videos that are coming along nicely that I can't wait to share with you all soon.
Camo. Maybe a digital camo.
Make It RC I was thinking but would you consider making a 69 charger to go with the scale rc fire bird
Is the body strong enough for heavy trail use?
@@jrduenas3678 The quality of the print and the material you use will make an impact on durability. I'd imagine that the infill will also have a significant impact as well. The bodies I printed could probable handle a pretty big fall or rough trail driving just as good if not better than a lot of plastic hard bodies that are more common. Certainly wouldn't recommend it for any serious bashing though.
Nice vid. I just finished printing one of their models. I think they make really nice files and a lot of body options.
Automotive Bumper Filler... best stuff I've found so far for filling in layer lines on bigger FDM prints 👍
Xtc-3d is my go to for finishing 3d prints. 2 part epoxy. Mix for 1 min, Apply with foam brush (maybe 2 coats). After a few hours its sandable with 400 grit and pretty smooth afterwards
now i want 3d printer
Good job
Get yourself a Gator brand foam sanding block. It has a micro Velcro system to hold on the paper. You will love it and it really helps with sanding large flat areas.
I appreciate the tip. I was thinking that some sort of sanding block would be helpful. I'll look into those. 👍
I can't believe how good it turned out for you
I've bought one from this site before, they have some amazing models, mounting it to the chassis was a real challenge
The nissan pathfinder is so sick,great work,2 thumbs up👍👍💯
That Chevy truck body reminded me of the prerunner build.
Fantastic creation!
Cool! If only I had a 3D printer.....
After cutting cable ties, heat ends to melt. They are really sharp.
Nice bud. The 3D models look great. Can't wait to see what you do with them. Really dig the Pathfinder.
Wow this are looking very nice wish my printer wood Mack those
General tip, you could have saved alot of PLA if you reduced the support density. There is really no need for that much supports. Using 12 to 15% support density is about the sweet spot, you can go even lower if your printer has good bridging capabilities or if you can set a "support roof" that will add a couple layers of 100% density support only at the top !
Be careful with support roof it can make them hard to remove. It does however give very good looking layers
TheRandomizedvids GUY
I started using the support roof on some small to medium overhangs with good results. Most of the time the supports snapped off easier and in one piece instead of a bunch.
Another option is Cura has conical supports. Small at the base and builds up towards the top. Takes more time but a huge difference in support material
Hell yea! Thanks for posting this I’ve been looking for a video like this for months. I just ordered the printer in the link and the reason I’ve been wanting to get one is for that f250 body in the video. I have a real 73 f250 and want to make my rc (scx10) just like it. And now that I’m getting it I’m going to all kinds of stuff.
Take hair blower battery on for cook food
And cold blowers both to make water refrigerator fan in.
Great video.
So yeah, it's time to get myself a 3D printer...
I have a Tevo Tornado Paul. It works great. I print a lot of parts for crawlers.
@@belair64 it still throws me off a bit when people call me my real name lol.
@@AmesiesCorner LOL, I'm a fan of your channel. I've also been a tech for 35 years. About a year ago I got into Crawlers the trail trucks.
I have printed many of these bodies they print really well, I'm printing the pickup in petg want to see if it will groove more strength.
@@TheRandomizedvids reply here when you find out and let us know
I love love love the ford body! I need one in 1/18 for my temper
Awesome job brother
Oh my God that Pathfinder!! #giveaway
They look great!
uncle, if for the size of the hard body f350 double cabin how much is the uncle for the cabin itself and how much is it Scala 1:10??
They look really cool mate!
impressed
im very new to 3d printing
ordered my first printer and 3 rolls of filament
my main intent is to print stuff for my 1/14 rc semis and 1/10 cars,etc
expecting delivery of my printer next week
cant wait
what size bed does these bodies need?
awesome, i wish i have one of that amazing 3d print
Do they only offer these as an STL? It would be nice to jet STEP or OBJ files to put a lot of these parts into Fusion360 and combine them into fewer parts and less piecing together on a large format printer. STLs are doable, but a PITA to work with. Nice work on the vid!
7:42 Using ABS and acetone vapour to smooth your print, won''t do a whole lot of good when you're printing at a .3 layer height. Acetone smoothing works best on layers that are less than .2 in height. Using taller/thicker layers will only make it harder to get a smoothed look, because it would require way more time for the vapours to do it's thing.... and by the time it does on a .3, the rest of the model's body could become rather soft.
If you started selling that Pathfinder as a finished product, I'd buy one. I've been looking for one, for a long time, to build my real toy in scale.
FlexFinder my dad is the same way, I’m trying to get him to buy a 3D printer so than he could make his truck look like his pathfinder
@@Lulu_racing did he bought it?
@@top_notch_memer yeah, we got a 3d printer
@@Lulu_racing nice congratulations
beautifull , great job ! , for those who dont have a 3d printer in home what is the cheapest place to print a 1/10 body shell in europe ?
probably order it online and have it delivered
Wow, great job, Would be cool if you use 3d printer to make interior seats, dashboard, etc inside the body.
Thank you. I'll be printing some interior parts in an upcoming video.
That is awesome 3d printer can do anything like a champ.
copyright does not typically apply to vehicle designs under the 'common item' clause. however, trade marks are still protected, which is why they don't use the manufacturer's name, etc.
If you heat up the nozzle prior ro swapping it out it is much easier.
As for glueing the parts together. make yourself some liquid Styrene in a glass jar. Buy a container of MEK, pour in jar, cut up some Styrene sheets and let the mek melt the styrene. It is good to glue and use as filler and you can adjust the viscosity to your liking. You can also use it to mould parts if needed. #giveaway
Do you think it would be possible to copy the Traxxas UDR chassis for 13%upscaling for the 28.4cc Stihl 4stroke
Best thing to do with this 3d bodies is use them for a vacuum molds
Awesome
Nice project. for when u change nozzle. u need to preheat the nozzle to 250c to remove it easy. and also when u put a new nozzle back. heat it up to 250c and then tighten it. otherwize u may get a lozzle nozzle and it will start to leak out of the heatblock and travel up on the heatblock. and that´s a pain to clean. just a tip :)
How much infill do you recommend for the the Ford body
What 3d printer do I need to print vehicle bodies for rc Traxxas trucks?
Is it possible to scale them down? I have an 1/18th scale crawler I've been building and I love the pathfinder body.
How much for a Tesla model Y custom body shell scale 1:10
Whats crazy is that i was just checking out their website a few days ago, i was a little hesitant since they didn't have any pictures of their files printed so i can see how well it translated over after its printed. This video helped me tremendously so thank you and keep up the good work! #GIVEAWAY
Hi bro what the name of printer you have?
Damn that's cool!
I'm working on 1:8 scale 32 Ford hot rod rc conversion
Sounds like a cool project. Good luck with it. 👍
Hi I got a question on 3D printer Will I need a expensive auto cad or will a regular old note book computer work
Awesome video really helpful information thank you ... I’m curious how long does it take to print a complete body? Just printed ??
How big of 3d printer do you need to print a body out if its printed in pieces
What’s your best method of removing all the inside support material?
Man I have question that I am going to get a 3d printer soon so which should I get tevo tarantula or tevo tornado please answer my question
Hi! Do you have pics or videos of the Pathfinder? Nice video 🤞🏽
Nice, I'm just looking at getting a larger FDM printer so I can start printing my own custom RC bodies. The Ender 3 Pro just isn't big enough... Interested to know what slicer you use, the supports look so much easier to remove than what I get with Cura v4.4. Did the 0.3mm vs 0.4mm nozzle help in this regard?
did you ever get a bigger printer for printing RC shells? cheers
@@90sarcadefighter5 Yes, bought a Creality CR-10 v2 with BLTouch auto bed leveler... plus I also have a couple of resin printers now. I print more accessories than bodies. The last one I did was a 1/10 Winnebago Brave.
@@paulblythe5899 nice! Thanks for the quick answer. after pretty much learning and watching all day ive settled on an CR 10s pro v2. i have a mint shell to print! what would you say in your experience is the best material to use for RC shells? (nitro)
@@90sarcadefighter5 Nitro's get hot, so probably ABS, but you'd need a temp-controlled chamber for your printer to properly print ABS... The next best would be PETG, which prints easily like PLA, but with a slightly higher hot-end temp, and a heated bed.
@@paulblythe5899 I had read and kinda settled on PETG but cannot get enough opinions. When you printed your 1/10 Winnebago, on the cr10 i presume, was it printed in 2 pieces I gather?
Are you going to do anything else on the Datsun or have you given up?
Are you gonna make a 3d printed crawler chassis?
It took more then 2 pounds of filament To make each body ?
I would use them to vacuum form a Lexan body myself
What size scale you think the scx24 needs?
what Millimetres did you use? because i don't know which one for my f1 car.
You should do the Mack big rig at 0:34 I would love to watch that
Are you able to print wheels for rc cars and trucks?
Is the store yours sir? I need model bit scaled down from your page
i have a prusa mini, can i print the parts with the prusa mini as well?
My needs for a 3D printer are pretty specific because of the final surface finish I need. I really do not know what type and brand of printer to deliver. For now I have joined a 3D printer group on Facebook and follow it along. I hope I can get my question and needs answered in 6 months.
Mind showing us your design process for the body?--I'd like to build one like that!
BTW I just released my newest one, Tarmo4
How are u not at 1 million subs?lol...u deserve it
How much filament was used per body?
OMG that is so cool to see new body's for 1/10 RC I think i have a idea with the pathfinder body why don't you make it Baja 1000 racer form the 90s it look very retro and no one has done anything like it before do you agree with me MAKE it RC and thank you for head up on next projects on this channel it going to be amazing 2019 year i can't wait so please hurry up now.
Do you take custom orders. I'm trying to find a 1/10 scale for 1984-90 S10 Chevy Blazer
It will take much long but you'd get a better print at a lower layer height, and 100% infill, less lines and much smoother transitions to deal with.
I use a ANET ET4 Pro and print at a 0.06 layer height, with a raft and 100% infill, and 35% support angle.
what 3d printer are you using?
Do a more trophy truck stuff/review the traxxas udr.
I'm keeping myself busy currently with the Chevy Prerunner build, but after that I might look into another desert racing style build.
Can you help with resin printing?
Im wanting to make a body that's has been discontinued but haven't seen anything similar to it no where
Door panel gaps are too thin. Would also expect more print-friendly partitioning and orientation, especially where partitions can be hidden by body lines where they would be on a full size vehicle.
Thank you for the opportunity! I just bought a 3d printer (ender 3 pro) and the first thing im gonna print is some 1/10 rc crawler accesories!! #giveaway
Finally ur doing a Ford pickup...next can u do a 1979 f250 !!pls...with a lift kit!!🤙🏼😍🤙🏼🇺🇸🤠
Hey make it rc I’m currently trying to build a miniature drift car and was wondering if you sell chassis or something like that for a reasonable prices I don’t have a lot of money because I am not of legal age to work so the cheaper the better
so epic iam working on a body i might check out thier site so much faster than me in blinder or fuinsion360. Epic prints bro
que software usas? yo tengo inventor Autodesck
Wow dawg....
Using wood filler or plastic filler putty instead of epoxy makes gap filling much easier when assembling 3D printed plastic parts. You can also use it for highly "stair stepped" parts to get a great smooth finish on PLA parts. #giveaway
Awesome thanks for the #giveaway would love to print this on my 3d printer.
I’m interested in printing and assembling one of these trucks on my Ender 3. Thanks for the #giveaway opportunity.
Nice looking bodies. Can't wait to see them finished. #Giveaway
Where's the discount code you promised :(
really enjoy your work sir been binge watching your videos now in preparation for my own project. I had a quick question do you know how long it takes to print one of these files? on average? the website you recommended has some incredible bodies and I want to pick up a file but I don't own a 3d printer yet so would need to take it to my local print shop, they charge by hour so I was trying to figure out roughly how much it might end up costing.
I'm glad your enjoying the videos. The time it takes depends on the printer settings and assumes that there will be no issues that require a part to be reprinted. I think in total for one body, it took around 20-30 hours of printing. I'm sure with different settings and orientation it could go faster, however I'd rather have the print time be longer and spend less time doing post print finishing work. I hope this information is helpful, good luck with your project.
Would it be able to print racecar bodys
I like the 1970-75 ford and I love the diversity of this channel #giveaway
What about a gmc 4x4 crewcab truck 2011 2500
Who sales these bodies just in the right off the printer form?
I would use automotive body filler for a seamless gap
how long did each print take in total?
I didn't really keep track but it was probably in the range of 15-20 hours.
Can you do a 1/10 touring car sometime in the future?
Can you make Xmaxx parts?
The Pathfinder was my first real vehicle, brings back a lot of memories. #Giveaway
Yep so was mine. 1987 two door red.
super cool can't wait to see what you with these. #giveaway
Does anybody know where to print rc parts for legos?
I think i heared about that but i dont know where you must search in forums of 3d printing about lego parts.
You should 3D print an AE86 trueno from initial d and make it drift.