I had the same issues & four garages couldn’t find the fault. Took it to main dealership. They found wiring fault , damaged wire that goes down under subframe to starting motor / damaged. After repair all good.
We had this problem. The starter solenoid needed rebuilding. Took an hour and the kit was about 14 pounds. Never failed since. The old contact posts were completely ruined.
Just had issues with my freelander not starting! Remote working fine on the buttons to lock but wouldn't unlock and intermittently not turning over,just a clicking from the starter motor(like a flat battery). After checking the battery out on the car and power to the solenoid from the key,I decided the solenoid was the issue. This seems a common fault on the denso starters so a few quid later from eBay and an hours time,the solenoid was repaired! 18mm socket on a 1/2 inch short extension, 10mm socket to remove the engine cover,flat water pump pliers to remove to air pipe from the filter box,lift air box out after disconnecting the air flow meter connector,3 bolts for the starter motor one is the 18 mm and I think the other 2 are 14 mm? 8 mm for the excite wire and 14 mm for the main power lead.disconnect battery earth before starting.dont remove any coolant pipes as most folk say...you don't need to. Three 8 mm bolts hold the solenoid cap on,remove them and gently lift the seal off.remove plunger contactor with the spring then undo the nuts (1side at a time) that connect the wires to the solenoid. Take close note( phone camera is best) at the same rider in which the isolates and parts are in their respective order,I sussed it without the camera but it took two goes lol. Remove the two copper contactor plates and spray with good contact cleaner to clean the solenoid housing etc.refit in reverse order....fixed and saving yourself a fortune for a new battery and then a starter motor! Sorry if the tool sizes are slightly out but you defo need the 18 mm and 14 mm sockets., by the way,the remote not working properly was the remote battery contact broken( semi sealed inside the key of course and all soldered in)! Don't be put off trying to fix it yourself! A fiver gets you a genuine battery from cpc or eBay and you need a pair of external circlip pliers to split the key case.watch the video on TH-cam,it's a 15 minute job with a steady hand,saved me another small fortune!
Slider: The man is a master of self repair of an LR2 free landing Freelander. Now my US version is sometimes just cranking over and over for way too long and not igniting. Something is up . . . Of course when it finally goes it will be in a terribly inconvenient place. : (
@horacesawyer2487 Hi Horace. Have you got a fix on your LR? Weak battery and or glow / plugs common for long crank ,no start. Also worth checking when the fuel filter was last changed. If it fires up OK once the initial run has warmed it up then you may have fuel leaking back from the injectors .
Stu it turned out that the battery was on its last legs. Also the unit that the key goes into was replaced. I took the video to show my local dealership the issues I was having. Now I’m out of warranty so I hope it lasts me another 3 years!
@@aamerkhan3198 hi. Depends whats happening friend? If your key remote locks and unlocks the car then the key battery is likely to be ok. Another indicator of a bad key battery is you need to get closer and closer before it operates correctly. If your just getting a clicking sound when you try to start the car then its likely either the car battery or its starter motor (possibly even a wiring issue). Best practice is to have the main car battery tested before spending on repairs. Key batteries are best replaced every 3 years (fit quality batteries). I dont know your fix abilities friend but if your generally ok with basic electrics this issue is fairly easy to get through however, any doubts please use a recomended auto electrician but do ask that the starter solenoid is just repaired and they dont just replace the whole starter motor as they are very expensive! Good look!
@@sliderdriver1 so, I got the car today, it’s not starting, I feel like the car locks and unlocks somewhat randomly, the key also go in or eject correctly from the casing… I have the issue when I put the key in, I get all lights, but it doesn’t turn over. Not hearing any click for the starter like others are either. Not sure if it’s the key
@@aamerkhan3198 hi. This will require a simple check at the starter motor exciter wire( the thin wire of the two). Youll need a 2nd person to press and hold the start button while you check for a live feed to the wire connection on the solenoid. If your getting a feed(use a cheap test light), then its likely the starter motor solenoid at fault). If your getting no power then you can suspect the key or key reader(the port at which the key slots in). At this point and without any use of a scan tool you can only replace the key battery yourself(check youtube out... Easy!). Usually though the dashboard will shoiw a "key not found" message of some kind if it cant read the key? Do you have a spare key with a known good battery you can try? The no clicking when trying to start and no key error message does point to the starter mmotor if your main car battery voltages are good. Another quick test requires a help again. Get someone to hold the start button as if teying to start it but you give the starter (solenoid) a tap with a long weighty imploment(hammer shaft etc). If while the other person tries to start it, you tap the starter and get a response of any kind(click, rumble, sound of any kind) then i guarantee its a faulty starter solenoid. Hope all this helps. I must point out that all this is based on the fact that all battery connections are sound and the engine does have a sound (EARTH CONNECTION FROM THE BATTERY). Do take 5 minutes to trace and check the negative lead.... One last point to mention though. Have you checked all your fuses? Also, can you hear a clicking sound from the starter motor relay? Check online how to find it if you dont have the owners book. A faulty relay is not unexpected! The relay switches power from the ignition switch down to the starter motor. Easy to replace and check by swapping with one next to it(they just pull out of the fuse box). All sounds complicated but take your time, be methodical and you should be able to come up with a diagnosis. Sorry if this long winded but its the only way i describe the way id do it. Stu.
I had the same issues & four garages couldn’t find the fault. Took it to main dealership. They found wiring fault , damaged wire that goes down under subframe to starting motor / damaged. After repair all good.
We had this problem. The starter solenoid needed rebuilding. Took an hour and the kit was about 14 pounds. Never failed since. The old contact posts were completely ruined.
Just had issues with my freelander not starting! Remote working fine on the buttons to lock but wouldn't unlock and intermittently not turning over,just a clicking from the starter motor(like a flat battery). After checking the battery out on the car and power to the solenoid from the key,I decided the solenoid was the issue. This seems a common fault on the denso starters so a few quid later from eBay and an hours time,the solenoid was repaired! 18mm socket on a 1/2 inch short extension, 10mm socket to remove the engine cover,flat water pump pliers to remove to air pipe from the filter box,lift air box out after disconnecting the air flow meter connector,3 bolts for the starter motor one is the 18 mm and I think the other 2 are 14 mm? 8 mm for the excite wire and 14 mm for the main power lead.disconnect battery earth before starting.dont remove any coolant pipes as most folk say...you don't need to. Three 8 mm bolts hold the solenoid cap on,remove them and gently lift the seal off.remove plunger contactor with the spring then undo the nuts (1side at a time) that connect the wires to the solenoid. Take close note( phone camera is best) at the same rider in which the isolates and parts are in their respective order,I sussed it without the camera but it took two goes lol. Remove the two copper contactor plates and spray with good contact cleaner to clean the solenoid housing etc.refit in reverse order....fixed and saving yourself a fortune for a new battery and then a starter motor! Sorry if the tool sizes are slightly out but you defo need the 18 mm and 14 mm sockets., by the way,the remote not working properly was the remote battery contact broken( semi sealed inside the key of course and all soldered in)! Don't be put off trying to fix it yourself! A fiver gets you a genuine battery from cpc or eBay and you need a pair of external circlip pliers to split the key case.watch the video on TH-cam,it's a 15 minute job with a steady hand,saved me another small fortune!
Slider: The man is a master of self repair of an LR2 free landing Freelander. Now my US version is sometimes just cranking over and over for way too long and not igniting. Something is up . . .
Of course when it finally goes it will be in a terribly inconvenient place. : (
@horacesawyer2487 Hi Horace. Have you got a fix on your LR? Weak battery and or glow / plugs common for long crank ,no start. Also worth checking when the fuel filter was last changed. If it fires up OK once the initial run has warmed it up then you may have fuel leaking back from the injectors .
Flat batteries are pretty common with freelander 2s
same problem won't start no noise nothing. click door lock a few times then it starts? ?
Hi, I just got this problem and left the car at my office. How to fix it? Thank you.
Dud Battery by the looks of it
Did you find a fix for this as i have the same issue
Yes the battery needed to be replaced
Classic bad battery.
I’m with the same problem :(
I hope you get it sorted, I suggest starting with the battery.
Did you figure out what was wrong with it.
The point being?? So what was wrong with it mate? Or are you asking for a fix?
Stu it turned out that the battery was on its last legs. Also the unit that the key goes into was replaced. I took the video to show my local dealership the issues I was having. Now I’m out of warranty so I hope it lasts me another 3 years!
Which battery, key battery or the car?
@@aamerkhan3198 hi. Depends whats happening friend? If your key remote locks and unlocks the car then the key battery is likely to be ok. Another indicator of a bad key battery is you need to get closer and closer before it operates correctly. If your just getting a clicking sound when you try to start the car then its likely either the car battery or its starter motor (possibly even a wiring issue). Best practice is to have the main car battery tested before spending on repairs. Key batteries are best replaced every 3 years (fit quality batteries). I dont know your fix abilities friend but if your generally ok with basic electrics this issue is fairly easy to get through however, any doubts please use a recomended auto electrician but do ask that the starter solenoid is just repaired and they dont just replace the whole starter motor as they are very expensive! Good look!
@@sliderdriver1 so, I got the car today, it’s not starting, I feel like the car locks and unlocks somewhat randomly, the key also go in or eject correctly from the casing… I have the issue when I put the key in, I get all lights, but it doesn’t turn over. Not hearing any click for the starter like others are either.
Not sure if it’s the key
@@aamerkhan3198 hi. This will require a simple check at the starter motor exciter wire( the thin wire of the two). Youll need a 2nd person to press and hold the start button while you check for a live feed to the wire connection on the solenoid. If your getting a feed(use a cheap test light), then its likely the starter motor solenoid at fault). If your getting no power then you can suspect the key or key reader(the port at which the key slots in). At this point and without any use of a scan tool you can only replace the key battery yourself(check youtube out... Easy!). Usually though the dashboard will shoiw a "key not found" message of some kind if it cant read the key? Do you have a spare key with a known good battery you can try? The no clicking when trying to start and no key error message does point to the starter mmotor if your main car battery voltages are good. Another quick test requires a help again. Get someone to hold the start button as if teying to start it but you give the starter (solenoid) a tap with a long weighty imploment(hammer shaft etc). If while the other person tries to start it, you tap the starter and get a response of any kind(click, rumble, sound of any kind) then i guarantee its a faulty starter solenoid. Hope all this helps. I must point out that all this is based on the fact that all battery connections are sound and the engine does have a sound (EARTH CONNECTION FROM THE BATTERY). Do take 5 minutes to trace and check the negative lead.... One last point to mention though. Have you checked all your fuses? Also, can you hear a clicking sound from the starter motor relay? Check online how to find it if you dont have the owners book. A faulty relay is not unexpected! The relay switches power from the ignition switch down to the starter motor. Easy to replace and check by swapping with one next to it(they just pull out of the fuse box). All sounds complicated but take your time, be methodical and you should be able to come up with a diagnosis. Sorry if this long winded but its the only way i describe the way id do it. Stu.