Sorry for Reviving a post from over a year ago - (i had the same issue, and some one just asked me the exact same question on one of my vids) Figured i'd try be a little helpful, In this case, the candidates are as follows, 1. Steering Column Lock (@Dan - it shouldnt be the steering column lock, you can hear it locking and unlocking / i couldnt see the "Steering Column locked via the vid)) To verify, remove it from under the steering column - and see if it is actually opening and closing - it has a small pressure activated switch that enables/disables the immobiliser on the inside of it (They are not known to go bad, but the steering lock itself is known to jam so it doesnt move enough to de-activate the immobiliser). For as long as you see a "Steering Column locked" Sign, Dan is right - no matter what you do, the car will NEVER STart! 2. Earth Straps: Possible in this case, as dash lights went "out" when trying to start - still, you should likely hear the starter motor at least attempt to turn the motor, and then lights go out (which doesnt look to be the case here - it doesnt seem like the started is even trying to start the car) 3. Clutch Switch : Possible as well, they arent known to go bad at all, it could however, be a loose connection: Check with a multimeter (For short circuits between wiring on the switch,i.e. with the clutch depressed (Switch closed) or clutch up (Switch open) 4. Instrument Cluster? Could be a Culprit as claimed by Land Rover: VERY Rare chance of this happening. 5 .Body Control Unit ? Could be a culprit: Under passenger footwell, potential cause: Condensation - From where? No one ever seems to answer - but this has solved a few similar issues for other users 6. Make sure all REAR Brake Lights are working!! (Ask me HOW i know!) 7. Battery Voltage - These cars HATE dipping below 10.5volts (esp when starting) so this could also be a culprit - it logs a fault and in some cases i've seen - even records a BODY CRASH Error in the ECU (erroneously) but this DOES cause a NO-CRANK condition in these cars. Do a hard reset - disconnect battery, place neg and pos terminals together (obviously disconnected from battery) and hold them together for at least 5 minutes. (thats all you need). Put everything back together, close all windows, double lock the car, and then try get back in like nothing happened and start it and see. Good luck!
Because no one else posted to what the fault could have been. My guess is that the steering column was still locked. This message does appear on the dashboard, while the ignition is on which it shouldn't! Obviously as you put the key in it should send a signal to the steering column to unlock it. In this case the lock isn't receiving the signal and stopping the vehicle from starting. So you need to replace the column lock and configure the new lock to the vehicle and it should fly. Hope this helps.
Its insane that so many of us have this problem but no-one seems to know the solution....I've been told earth straps, steering locks, clutch switch, starter motor..... the list is long.
My battery died from leaving the hazard lights on. After charging it at my local Interstate Battery store my vehicle still wouldn't start. I don't remember what site I learned the answer but I plugged in a code scanner that I borrowed from Auto Zone and erased all codes. Once I did that the vehicle started right up. Sorry, I don't remember what site I found the answer or the specifics of why the dead battery affected the starting of the vehicle but the solution worked. Good luck to all.
Had same issue with mine...fixed last weekend with starter solenoid repair kit from repairkitsuk.com under £20 in 2018. First get the number off your starter motor to obtain the correct kit to order. Order kit..delivery in couple of days. All work is possible from top of engine bay..remove positive battery terminal...I removed air filter and housing for extra space. Remove large and small nuts holding loom and wire on top of solenoid unit and move wires out of way..undo loom nut and support off bottom starter bolt then loosen bolt which was 18mm..then loosen other 2 bolts from starter (13mm I think)..remove bolts and ease starter out between engine and water hoses towards air filter box area. Follow instructions with kit to remove/replace starter solenoid plunger and contacts in kit..then refit. Took a few hours max. Starts first time every time now. Hope this helps you all out.
Start with charging the battery up off the car you need a full 12 volts if you have 11.5 or 11 it will not start, Short trips and using all the toys will drain the battery. If it keeps happening then buy a new BIGGER battery
In my case the starter motor terminal nut had got a bit rusty and come loose, and the poor connection led to arcing and made the connection gradually worse. In most cases where the starter motor works occasionally and sometimes not, it is the internal connections inside the starter motor, they get worn and pitted and make a poor connection. The good news is the motor is generally fine, and despite bruised knuckles is an easy home fix with simple tools if you take your time. ( It took me 2 hours to remove, 10 minutes to fit the new internals and an hour and a half to re-install.) The kit, if you have a post 2006 freelander 2, ( other kits available for other models) is cheap on ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-FREELANDER-2-2-2-TD4-STARTER-MOTOR-SOLENOID-REPAIR-KIT-6G9N-11000-MA/292048162931?hash=item43ff6d5073:g:OAQAAMXQcVNQ6ynp
If your symptoms are that sometimes you insert your key, press the button, the dash lights all come on, then it says system check in progress, the lights go off but the damn thing won't start, and if you listen carefully you can hear relays clicking then the answer is probably starter motor solenoid wear.
Did you replace the whole starter motor? It may have just have been the solenoid, if you still have the old one buy a kit off ebay and replace the solenoid part and you could sell the repaired item on ebay and get most of your money back.
Sorry for Reviving a post from over a year ago - (i had the same issue, and some one just asked me the exact same question on one of my vids) Figured i'd try be a little helpful,
In this case, the candidates are as follows,
1. Steering Column Lock (@Dan - it shouldnt be the steering column lock, you can hear it locking and unlocking / i couldnt see the "Steering Column locked via the vid)) To verify, remove it from under the steering column - and see if it is actually opening and closing - it has a small pressure activated switch that enables/disables the immobiliser on the inside of it (They are not known to go bad, but the steering lock itself is known to jam so it doesnt move enough to de-activate the immobiliser). For as long as you see a "Steering Column locked" Sign, Dan is right - no matter what you do, the car will NEVER STart!
2. Earth Straps: Possible in this case, as dash lights went "out" when trying to start - still, you should likely hear the starter motor at least attempt to turn the motor, and then lights go out (which doesnt look to be the case here - it doesnt seem like the started is even trying to start the car)
3. Clutch Switch : Possible as well, they arent known to go bad at all, it could however, be a loose connection: Check with a multimeter (For short circuits between wiring on the switch,i.e. with the clutch depressed (Switch closed) or clutch up (Switch open)
4. Instrument Cluster? Could be a Culprit as claimed by Land Rover: VERY Rare chance of this happening.
5 .Body Control Unit ? Could be a culprit: Under passenger footwell, potential cause: Condensation - From where? No one ever seems to answer - but this has solved a few similar issues for other users
6. Make sure all REAR Brake Lights are working!! (Ask me HOW i know!)
7. Battery Voltage - These cars HATE dipping below 10.5volts (esp when starting) so this could also be a culprit - it logs a fault and in some cases i've seen - even records a BODY CRASH Error in the ECU (erroneously) but this DOES cause a NO-CRANK condition in these cars.
Do a hard reset - disconnect battery, place neg and pos terminals together (obviously disconnected from battery) and hold them together for at least 5 minutes. (thats all you need). Put everything back together, close all windows, double lock the car, and then try get back in like nothing happened and start it and see.
Good luck!
Because no one else posted to what the fault could have been. My guess is that the steering column was still locked. This message does appear on the dashboard, while the ignition is on which it shouldn't! Obviously as you put the key in it should send a signal to the steering column to unlock it. In this case the lock isn't receiving the signal and stopping the vehicle from starting. So you need to replace the column lock and configure the new lock to the vehicle and it should fly. Hope this helps.
this is happening to my lr2 right now did you find a solution
Its insane that so many of us have this problem but no-one seems to know the solution....I've been told earth straps, steering locks, clutch switch, starter motor..... the list is long.
Toby Barker did u find the problem my is doin the same
Why i like a vehicle with a damn key
How was this fixed mine is doing the same
My battery died from leaving the hazard lights on. After charging it at my local Interstate Battery store my vehicle still wouldn't start. I don't remember what site I learned the answer but I plugged in a code scanner that I borrowed from Auto Zone and erased all codes. Once I did that the vehicle started right up. Sorry, I don't remember what site I found the answer or the specifics of why the dead battery affected the starting of the vehicle but the solution worked. Good luck to all.
Had same issue with mine...fixed last weekend with starter solenoid repair kit from repairkitsuk.com under £20 in 2018.
First get the number off your starter motor to obtain the correct kit to order. Order kit..delivery in couple of days.
All work is possible from top of engine bay..remove positive battery terminal...I removed air filter and housing for extra space.
Remove large and small nuts holding loom and wire on top of solenoid unit and move wires out of way..undo loom nut and support off bottom starter bolt then loosen bolt which was 18mm..then loosen other 2 bolts from starter (13mm I think)..remove bolts and ease starter out between engine and water hoses towards air filter box area. Follow instructions with kit to remove/replace starter solenoid plunger and contacts in kit..then refit. Took a few hours max. Starts first time every time now. Hope this helps you all out.
try replacing .c7 ignition relay
The reason because my Freelander 2 didn t start,was the keyfob battery.
there has passed year, and today on February 27, 2017 I sit in perplexity as well as you a year ago... (
I have exactly the same problem.. Dashboard says I have a HDC problem. Did you resolve your problem?
surfcrazy1 what was you problem? How do you fixed?
Start with charging the battery up off the car you need a full 12 volts if you have 11.5 or 11 it will not start, Short trips and using all the toys will drain the battery. If it keeps happening then buy a new BIGGER battery
Usually a Dodgy battery
resolve problem?
is the neutral safety swich i was have this problem
Tienes la solución para el problema como se soluciona ??
How about you put the key in the other way.
New battery
motor de arranque
It's the starter motor solenoid, easy fix
Paul D'Angelo, Hi I have te same problem how can I fix it, help will be apréciate thanks
In my case the starter motor terminal nut had got a bit rusty and come loose, and the poor connection led to arcing and made the connection gradually worse. In most cases where the starter motor works occasionally and sometimes not, it is the internal connections inside the starter motor, they get worn and pitted and make a poor connection. The good news is the motor is generally fine, and despite bruised knuckles is an easy home fix with simple tools if you take your time. ( It took me 2 hours to remove, 10 minutes to fit the new internals and an hour and a half to re-install.) The kit, if you have a post 2006 freelander 2, ( other kits available for other models) is cheap on ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-FREELANDER-2-2-2-TD4-STARTER-MOTOR-SOLENOID-REPAIR-KIT-6G9N-11000-MA/292048162931?hash=item43ff6d5073:g:OAQAAMXQcVNQ6ynp
If your symptoms are that sometimes you insert your key, press the button, the dash lights all come on, then it says system check in progress, the lights go off but the damn thing won't start, and if you listen carefully you can hear relays clicking then the answer is probably starter motor solenoid wear.
Yes it was the starter I just finish installing a new one and the car started with no prob,, thank you very much for your help god bless
Did you replace the whole starter motor? It may have just have been the solenoid, if you still have the old one buy a kit off ebay and replace the solenoid part and you could sell the repaired item on ebay and get most of your money back.