Quick fix: clean up piston with some fine fine grit paper (400), new rings, a hone, do the seals that are accessible. Any bottom end airleaks will make the bike run lean. DO Not fall for the myth that bigger piston Is better! Overbores are cheap and having the next size on hand couldn't hurt but you only have so much cylinder lining, the bigger hole you make for your pistons, the less life left in it. It will also effect porting and the engines cooling. Read Klemmvintage.coms articles on two stroke engines, it mentions how 70s fuel is much higher, so pre-detonation occurs, so you need to run the Highest Octane you can, or get some work done to the combustion chamber. Or both. It will help prevent overheating and future scoring. All out: look into modern manufacturing of the cdi, the 40yr old electronics won't put out as bright a spark, or be as true. I'd also rebuild the crank. I Thought my kawasaki F7 one was ok, but when I got it rebuilt it had no play - no wiggle = no excessive rubbing on the cylinder. Replacing the bearings and having it trued/rebuilt is all you need. A new rod is optional. If there's a shop that deals with old two strokes nearby they can port match too, making sure the port windows are to spec and 100 % which most mass produced engines aren't. They could also do some porting work to make the bike run cleaner. Also rebuild,and reseal that oil pump. It's your life line. If it ib sealed and draws air, or isn't pumping as it should it can destroy your engine. Some people plate it off and just premix their bikes which is okay in a dirtbike application but alot of hassle, just keep the pump maintenance up. If you want to talk more about this stuff here is my email, g.casazzone@gmail.com, I started tinkering with old two strokes after highschool so I've gone through all this stuff, and learned it all the hard way.
Also, if you want to focus on offroad and start with a fresh drive train, I'd put a smaller front sprocket, new chain and larger rear sprocket, it will make the gearing more torque > top end.
Some people like to lighten their flywheels too, make them rev lil easier but at cost of harder to start. I apologize in advance for all the spam, I just eat up all this stuff haha
When using that type of flywheel puller you need washers under the head of your bolts that won’t bend. Be careful not to thread bolts into flywheel to far you’ll hit your stator and won’t have spark when done. Don’t ask me how I know this!!! Once you have those washers get it as tight as you can and then hit the end of the puller where your 3/4” socket was hit it hard it will come off guaranteed. But you must put heavy duty washers under bolt heads first. Once again don’t forget to replace both crankshaft seals otherwise it will burn gearbox oil.
Just a little tip for your future projects: remove the piston, remove the piston pin out, put the piston on a hard flat surface and then slightly hit it with a screwdriver, if it will zing like a bell, the piston is good, if it sounds like an ancient pottery, it means it has micro cracks, and its dangerous to put it back in the engine. ;)
I got an old '79 DS185 for 50$ and three carbs later I finally got it to run. Looks like it had some major mods thrown on it though because the stock exhaust doesn't fit right and it has a thumb throttle like a 4-wheeler. Gotta say I'm not looking forwards to de-grime-ing it, so for now yours looks a whole lot better. Just wanted to put this here and say that your videos and experiences with this bike have helped tremendously in getting this thing freed up and working.
That baggy trick is brilliant btw. It took me a few times of losing parts and my mind before I started compartmentalizing like that whilst disassembling bikes.
If you’re wondering why all the screws keep stripping out is because Japanese heads are different than standard ones. I work at a motorcycle/snowmobile shop and we have a special set of screwdrivers for Japanese bikes. Just a tip.
Another awesome video. Best advice I can give though, is consult Partzilla and those two engines, even if the other motor shares some part numbers it's worth holding on to. EvenIf it's just the same cylinder. That way if you bore out thg bone or blow it, you have a ready replacement. You could also get a spare clutch pack, or transmission gears, who knows!
I can see a TIG welder in your future. Also JIS (Japanese International Standard) screwdrivers are a big help when working on Japanese bikes. Most disassembly can de done with using much force if you take your time. I'm not planning on splitting my case unless it is really needed. Presently I am just waiting for spring to see what if anything is needed other than wiring and lights. One can learn a lot by watching videos so you are educating us as you learn yourself. Thanks for taking the time to make the videos. Maybe hang the case splitter on the wall...
Great job! ..you're for sure are busy!. :) ..pitty on the case lip.. This is very brittle and you should not bend it...let it stay were it is and use a metal/epoxy 2- component to sparkle it very gentle on surface.. this will be fine, thanks for shearing your adventure with the TS...great fun!..
About to buy one of these to restore during quarantine. Holy shit your video editing quality bro!! You have the video quality of a much bigger channel it’s very nice. You need a work bench though dude! Cheers haha. I’m watching your vids in order and I’m already stoked to see it run
I've been enjoying your videos on this rebuild and have noticed that you are constantly ruining the "philips" screws. Japanese motorcycles use JIS screws, which are similar, but philips screwdrivers do not fit them properly; that is why you are stripping the heads. You need to invest in a set of JIS screwdrivers and toss out your philips. JIS screwdrivers fit philips screws fine, and actually allow you to apply more torque without them slipping. Vessel even has an impact model, the Impacta, that, if you hit it with a hammer, will turn the shaft 12 degrees, for those hard-to-loosen screws. Good luck!
Hello! I live in El Salvador and just bought a 1973 Suzuki TS250, US version, in really good shape. But want to restore and replace some parts. Can you please suggest online stores in the US to buy parts. Found Bike Bandit, but maybe you got another places to recommend. Thank you guys!
Not that style.. it doesn't pull from the right angle. You need something like this. www.amazon.com/Max-Motosports-Motorcycle-Flywheel-Kawasaki/dp/B00XBIF8BE
That style puller threads into the flywheel. It's what all dealers use to properly pull them. Trust me, I've learned the hard way and you don't want to buy another flywheel because you bent the first one using the wrong tools.. Cheers!
Good on ya mate for making a good video your measuring tool is a verneer caliper not a micrometer and probs not the best thing to measure the bore you can get bore guages that are alot more accurate and not overly expensive.
I'm trying to buy a parts bike for my 1970 Yam HT1 90cc and it has a good fuel tank which I will not need; it's also a Yamaha from around the same year- what do you think I could get away listing a used tank in good condition, faded paint, original Yamaha decals, not badges?
you wont find a single Phillips screw on a Japanese bike, just a heads up they stripped because they are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) and you used phillips.
Love the video but some of the shit that you do is crazy and if I saw someone doing to my stuff I would beat their ass lol it's yours do what you want!!!
Heard you say that the Frank looks good considering that there had been water in the oil. On twostrokes there is no engine oil in the crankcase. Only the oil mixed in the fuel. So there are 2 compartments. One for the crank and one for the gearbox. A better way to fix it, is to understand how it works🙂😘
GoldGuy some people vall the crank case the part were the clutch and gearbox is. That is not right. The crank case is the sealed of area where the crankshaft sits. And in the bottom half of the crankshaft is no engine oil that you Drain from the bottom of the engine. The crank get lubricated by the oil in the fuel. Like 99% of Twostroke engines do. Especiely the ts engines with the reed valve under the cylinder. So the fuel goes in to the crankcase and then up into the cylinder. So if there would have been engine oil there it would have mixed with the fuel and your bike wouldnt run. I have worked on these types of engines for a long time so i know them inside out
Thank you for using blaster or anything other than wd40 it's not even a penetrating oil and people use it for everything like it's gold and it really sucks!! Spray a piece of clean steel with it and leave it outside it's going to be rusty so it's not even a protector!!! So what does it do it's a ok light oil but there's even better light oils out there don't understand why everyone uses on parts then can't understand why they still strip thread's or ring a bolt off!!
Breaking the case and you can't get the flywheel off among other things is why people shouldn't work on these vintage bikes unless they know what they're doing
I disagree. This bike taught me so much and I am way better off now for it. Yeah I broke some stuff but the lessons are worth way more than the cost of a new engine case. I have rebuilt many other vintage and modern engines since this video and each one has been better than the last.
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Comment down below what you think I should change/upgrade in this engine! Crankshaft bearings, seals etc..
Quick fix: clean up piston with some fine fine grit paper (400), new rings, a hone, do the seals that are accessible. Any bottom end airleaks will make the bike run lean. DO Not fall for the myth that bigger piston Is better! Overbores are cheap and having the next size on hand couldn't hurt but you only have so much cylinder lining, the bigger hole you make for your pistons, the less life left in it. It will also effect porting and the engines cooling. Read Klemmvintage.coms articles on two stroke engines, it mentions how 70s fuel is much higher, so pre-detonation occurs, so you need to run the Highest Octane you can, or get some work done to the combustion chamber. Or both. It will help prevent overheating and future scoring.
All out: look into modern manufacturing of the cdi, the 40yr old electronics won't put out as bright a spark, or be as true. I'd also rebuild the crank. I Thought my kawasaki F7 one was ok, but when I got it rebuilt it had no play - no wiggle = no excessive rubbing on the cylinder. Replacing the bearings and having it trued/rebuilt is all you need. A new rod is optional. If there's a shop that deals with old two strokes nearby they can port match too, making sure the port windows are to spec and 100 % which most mass produced engines aren't. They could also do some porting work to make the bike run cleaner. Also rebuild,and reseal that oil pump. It's your life line. If it ib sealed and draws air, or isn't pumping as it should it can destroy your engine. Some people plate it off and just premix their bikes which is okay in a dirtbike application but alot of hassle, just keep the pump maintenance up. If you want to talk more about this stuff here is my email, g.casazzone@gmail.com, I started tinkering with old two strokes after highschool so I've gone through all this stuff, and learned it all the hard way.
Also, if you want to focus on offroad and start with a fresh drive train, I'd put a smaller front sprocket, new chain and larger rear sprocket, it will make the gearing more torque > top end.
Some people like to lighten their flywheels too, make them rev lil easier but at cost of harder to start. I apologize in advance for all the spam, I just eat up all this stuff haha
@@jordanprato151 it's not spam at all, it's all really good advice! Thank you
When using that type of flywheel puller you need washers under the head of your bolts that won’t bend.
Be careful not to thread bolts into flywheel to far you’ll hit your stator and won’t have spark when done.
Don’t ask me how I know this!!!
Once you have those washers get it as tight as you can and then hit the end of the puller where your 3/4” socket was hit it hard it will come off guaranteed.
But you must put heavy duty washers under bolt heads first.
Once again don’t forget to replace both crankshaft seals otherwise it will burn gearbox oil.
Just a little tip for your future projects:
remove the piston, remove the piston pin out, put the piston on a hard flat surface and then slightly hit it with a screwdriver, if it will zing like a bell, the piston is good, if it sounds like an ancient pottery, it means it has micro cracks, and its dangerous to put it back in the engine. ;)
Great tip! I'll have to fact check that but it makes sense for sure. Thanks for sharing!
Impact screw driver. Less then 20$ it will become your best friend. Makes taking out those screws easy. Good job!
I got an old '79 DS185 for 50$ and three carbs later I finally got it to run. Looks like it had some major mods thrown on it though because the stock exhaust doesn't fit right and it has a thumb throttle like a 4-wheeler. Gotta say I'm not looking forwards to de-grime-ing it, so for now yours looks a whole lot better.
Just wanted to put this here and say that your videos and experiences with this bike have helped tremendously in getting this thing freed up and working.
That baggy trick is brilliant btw. It took me a few times of losing parts and my mind before I started compartmentalizing like that whilst disassembling bikes.
It took me two bike builds to figure it out lol but I'm never going back!
If you’re wondering why all the screws keep stripping out is because Japanese heads are different than standard ones. I work at a motorcycle/snowmobile shop and we have a special set of screwdrivers for Japanese bikes. Just a tip.
Exactly SIS is not the same as phillip's I know he's learning but dang it if he doesn't do some crazy shit lol.
It's time to build a work bench my friend. The floor is just not cutting it, hahaha keep up the great work GG
Another awesome video. Best advice I can give though, is consult Partzilla and those two engines, even if the other motor shares some part numbers it's worth holding on to. EvenIf it's just the same cylinder. That way if you bore out thg bone or blow it, you have a ready replacement. You could also get a spare clutch pack, or transmission gears, who knows!
I can see a TIG welder in your future. Also JIS (Japanese International Standard) screwdrivers are a big help
when working on Japanese bikes. Most disassembly can de done with using much force if you take your time.
I'm not planning on splitting my case unless it is really needed. Presently I am just waiting for spring to see what
if anything is needed other than wiring and lights. One can learn a lot by watching videos so you are educating
us as you learn yourself. Thanks for taking the time to make the videos. Maybe hang the case splitter on the
wall...
My first bike was a TS185. Good memories!
Great job! ..you're for sure are busy!. :) ..pitty on the case lip..
This is very brittle and you should not bend it...let it stay were it is and use a metal/epoxy 2- component to sparkle it very gentle on surface.. this will be fine, thanks for shearing your adventure with the TS...great fun!..
It's 20 thousandth over stock. stop hitting the mag there's magnets that will shatter in side.
Thanks Mason. Be patient. I'm glad you are accomplishing something.
dude I love the way you are resting on the reeds :)
About to buy one of these to restore during quarantine. Holy shit your video editing quality bro!! You have the video quality of a much bigger channel it’s very nice. You need a work bench though dude! Cheers haha. I’m watching your vids in order and I’m already stoked to see it run
This brings me way back, taking apart an engine on a piece of cardboard in my garage. Cool vid kid ✊
Its not a micro meter at 5:35 its a vernier caliper
Shaheer Alam micrometer is the one that looks like a vice correct?
Yes you are right, I mixed those up. Thanks!
Cole Skins yeah but its smaller
GoldGuy and by the way im from Pakistan 🇵🇰 i saw that knife and its not the best we have honestly 😂
Actually it's a dial caliper, it doesn't have an vernier scale on it.
Dude that’s a lot of work great job at least you’re learning something from it
Great vid dude! Those rusted parts are a pain in the ass, but you’ll get it done.
Ebay is a good place to shop, but check out bike bandit or partzilla. Plus those have break down diagrams for when you forget where your parts went.
I'd really deter dry fitting pistons, it will scratch the cylinder and piston
Two vids in one week. Great work!
Thanks!
awesome. I'm a big supporter of bag and tag too!
Probably the funniest video yet lol. Can't wait to see you rip it when it's warmer outside
16:30 Plastic piece is the neutral light switch that mounts to the end of the shift drum.
Spider webs in a crank case! That’s a first for me 😂
great build
I've been enjoying your videos on this rebuild and have noticed that you are constantly ruining the "philips" screws. Japanese motorcycles use JIS screws, which are similar, but philips screwdrivers do not fit them properly; that is why you are stripping the heads. You need to invest in a set of JIS screwdrivers and toss out your philips. JIS screwdrivers fit philips screws fine, and actually allow you to apply more torque without them slipping. Vessel even has an impact model, the Impacta, that, if you hit it with a hammer, will turn the shaft 12 degrees, for those hard-to-loosen screws. Good luck!
Middle of the night you'll hear: "THUMP !!! -dang-a-twang" as the flywheel hits the floor above :) :) :) hahaha
Never hit the flywheel, just give the centre bolt a tap.
I can't believe you made that spoke nice fob man
Just saying that it’s easier to take to head off by unscrewing the bolts diagonally this way it relieves pressure off the other bolts and the case
This is fantastic! Could you show me the order of the exhaust gaskets?
Would this motor be the same as the one in the tf185 and also any tips on how to unseize the tf185 engine
Hey goldguy! Well done! At 16:33 is the gear selector! It’s the same on the big Suzuki’s
You need a impact screwdriver for the screws and a good rubber mullet to break the cases apart so you won't break the cases and crack them
Hi mate, appreciate the video. I'm rebuilding one myself. Did you replace the cylinder head flange nuts, and if so, what size thread?
Carbonation lol I guess he was thinking of something to drink lol!!!
Can’t wait to see it out on the road
There is original service manuals online for free download
Hello! I live in El Salvador and just bought a 1973 Suzuki TS250, US version, in really good shape. But want to restore and replace some parts. Can you please suggest online stores in the US to buy parts. Found Bike Bandit, but maybe you got another places to recommend. Thank you guys!
You should get the actual stator/flywheel puller for it and it’ll pop right off.
That is what I was using
Not that style.. it doesn't pull from the right angle. You need something like this. www.amazon.com/Max-Motosports-Motorcycle-Flywheel-Kawasaki/dp/B00XBIF8BE
That style puller threads into the flywheel. It's what all dealers use to properly pull them. Trust me, I've learned the hard way and you don't want to buy another flywheel because you bent the first one using the wrong tools.. Cheers!
@@jpardee208 thanks for the link!
GoldGuy check to make sure you get the correct one but most are universal. Good luck! 👍🏼
Please never use an impact tool on a puller or compressor tool, don't poke the bearings...
Good on ya mate for making a good video your measuring tool is a verneer caliper not a micrometer and probs not the best thing to measure the bore you can get bore guages that are alot more accurate and not overly expensive.
Excelent, I'm waiting for the next part
always a great work! love your videos, greetings from argentina
At 8.55 bear in mind that the curvature will be affecting the flat fealer guage so it will probely be a bit higher than your reading
I'm trying to buy a parts bike for my 1970 Yam HT1 90cc and it has a good fuel tank which I will not need; it's also a Yamaha from around the same year- what do you think I could get away listing a used tank in good condition, faded paint, original Yamaha decals, not badges?
Awesome video
Nice video 😃
Do you need to remove the flywheel to split the case?
I have a ts185 so would a ts100 oil pump fit into a ts185
You don't measure the crown, your measure the skirt clearance.
You're stripping screws because they are not philips screws they are jis.
You can add up feeler guages too, if the gaps too big for one.
you wont find a single Phillips screw on a Japanese bike, just a heads up they stripped because they are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) and you used phillips.
the best engine ihad
Subbed! just bought one of these
My TS just got ruined. The crankshaft might be seized. Is there any solution to this? It won't soon freely
You can get cranks rebuilt, and I believe you can still get rods as well.
Hey buddy still got that motor
It's in a bike that I sold now.
Spiders! Spiders everywhere! xDD
U can bore out cylinder by a professional of coarse and get a larger piston for more power??? Usually?? On those bikes!🤪
Yes that’s the reed valve
Love the video but some of the shit that you do is crazy and if I saw someone doing to my stuff I would beat their ass lol it's yours do what you want!!!
Quite a bit of shaft play, aye? ;)
2:45
At least I hope that you are!! Almost as good as cheech and Chong!!!!
Como puedo hacer para conseguir repuestos de la suzuki ts 185 ER
Take a small torch and heat the flywheel it's not hard.
or get a puller, very cheap.
the drz125 ?
where it is?
Donde puedo conseguir piezas, necesito pistón, seguros, anillos y biela para ts 185 2006
Heard you say that the Frank looks good considering that there had been water in the oil. On twostrokes there is no engine oil in the crankcase. Only the oil mixed in the fuel. So there are 2 compartments. One for the crank and one for the gearbox. A better way to fix it, is to understand how it works🙂😘
Ummm yes there is crankcase oil as well, I know my engine...
GoldGuy some people vall the crank case the part were the clutch and gearbox is. That is not right. The crank case is the sealed of area where the crankshaft sits. And in the bottom half of the crankshaft is no engine oil that you Drain from the bottom of the engine. The crank get lubricated by the oil in the fuel. Like 99% of Twostroke engines do. Especiely the ts engines with the reed valve under the cylinder. So the fuel goes in to the crankcase and then up into the cylinder. So if there would have been engine oil there it would have mixed with the fuel and your bike wouldnt run. I have worked on these types of engines for a long time so i know them inside out
How can spiders get inside of the engine😲
I have no idea.
you have any part
Que prensa sele puede adaptar ala ts 185 ya que en nicaragua no hay repuestos de ella talves alguien que sepa me ayuda porfavor
It's painful watching you work....smashing the case was borderline criminal.
i have also like that
The difference is that you’d be making six figures after engineering school $$$$$$
I could make that or more without engineering school. And besides, that isn't what I want to do with my life
Thank you for using blaster or anything other than wd40 it's not even a penetrating oil and people use it for everything like it's gold and it really sucks!! Spray a piece of clean steel with it and leave it outside it's going to be rusty so it's not even a protector!!! So what does it do it's a ok light oil but there's even better light oils out there don't understand why everyone uses on parts then can't understand why they still strip thread's or ring a bolt off!!
If you need parts I know of a place I've been using since the late 80s they have like 25 acres of bikes and he does ship
The Pyro Dude what’s the place if you don’t mind me asking
Muy buena asi reparo mi moto
Little late but I finally made it #463rd comment 😂
Those aren’t Phillips. JIS
Breaking the case and you can't get the flywheel off among other things is why people shouldn't work on these vintage bikes unless they know what they're doing
I disagree. This bike taught me so much and I am way better off now for it. Yeah I broke some stuff but the lessons are worth way more than the cost of a new engine case. I have rebuilt many other vintage and modern engines since this video and each one has been better than the last.
Dude using those feeler gauges is a joke for checking cylinder clearance the damn thing is flat and wide and the cylinder is round think about it!!!!
Como esta amigo
part #1 look how fucking mooron wanks everything with hammer ;D part 2 woops i need another engine cause cant put together screwed up parts LOL
Hahahahahaha
That tool was a dial caliper, not a micrometer
para medir el tiempo
First
3:48
hehe...
nipple...
Saludos tengo ese mismo motor pero poca información en español soy de Colombia
Chévere!
That's not good, poor engine 😢
First XD
Hobby Bros no me
Delta Rey I clicked on the video in 8 seconds which by default makes me the most hardcore gold guy fan.
Hobby Bros sorry mate I was 7 second early to the vid.
Trent Mulford ohhhhhhh okay
You're all winners because you watched the video! 😂😂
lol. i think you shall first practice with bycicles cause on this engine you fuck up pretty much everything. stop braking start fixing shit
Я вот одно не могу понять, что я не так сделала что мне приходится владеть именно советскими мотоциклами. Они настолько уродливые.
Just buy a different new old stock engine bro!? Thanks 🙏
But that's no fun..