Loosen top caps while tubes are still clamped in the lower triple clamps. For bottom alem bolt; clamp individual fork lower in vice; with lead or aluminium sheet or "soft jaws";on the flat area. Then an alen drive on your impact wrench. May need to place a broom stick up inside. See how it goes. Well done figuring it out !. Caps are called dust boots :)
Great Job! I picked up a 1981 TS250 3 years ago and have been sitting on it. Current progress is I have split the case, every case seal replaced, new base gasket, new reed, fresh 1mm overstock hone job thanks to my coworker. Loads of other details but, keep it going man! Happy to see a win from you on the forks.
The metal reed was creased and the rubber was so dry and cracked. I split the case due to the crank case not even holding 1 psi from the missing piece of gasket. Someone was most assuredly in there before.
13:40 That small spring is the rebound spring and should have been slid over the short damper tube before you put it inside the fork tube not after. It ensures the damper tube mushroom shaped end does not slam against the ridge inside the fork leg when the forks extended to full length after a bump.
Check out this diagram: www.google.com/search?q=ts185+fork+tube+diagram&oq=ts185+fork+tube+diagram&aqs=chrome..69i57.7361j0j9&client=ms-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=4_UrmltliXEbeM:
@@GoldGuyRides Be careful of those diagrams because they don't show the assembly order, They simply show the damper spring as being on the damper tube but don't show the order to fit it Look at this one www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/1980/ts185/front-fork The damper spring is fitted at part number 11 in the image, the damper tube with spring on it is then slid down the inner fork leg so the spring is inside the inner fork leg on the damper tube, and then the lower damper spacer fits to the damper tube end outside below of the inner leg. The instructions that go with this image likely explain that but if you only look at the image you can miss that point. If you don't put the damper in the right way every time the forks extend after a bump if will feel like someone is hitting the handlebars with a hammer, this will eventually peen the top of the damper and may damage the inside of the upper fork legs too.
@@GoldGuyRides It takes a while as a working mechanic before you develop a memory for how assemblies go back together. Until then always lay parts out in line as they come apart and take an image on your phone so you don't forget how they go back together before you clean them up and get them mixed up.
GoldGuy He's right, look this TS125 forks stuff encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcR2lzHt00zDnI2UYV9AjugawRj1lumiT8-EM0VgchqdNLsniK7w that's the way you do it, and don't grind the tubes that way, it will break the oil seals anysoon.
I wish I'd seen this video a month ago I'm restoring a 1979 Honda XR80 in extremely poor condition the fork oil was brown. I put it all back together with everything spotless and new seals but didn't clean the springs well enough. Love how you have a crack it's got me keen to attempt a top end rebuild
Once again excellent job The only thing I do difference is I loosen the bolts for the folks before removing from the bike makes it a lot easy when their are fixed in place on the bike!
You just destroyed your upper fork stanchions by grinding the plating. They will never seal now.... anyone watching this thinking of rebuilding forks..... please for the love of God do not grind your chrome fork stanchions 🤦♂️
What do you reccomend for an older bike that has no available parts? My forks are pitted and beginning to rust on my 80' mx100 so my only option is restoring with such a lack of old new stock parts. Could I get new pieces custom made instead so they will seal right... and where would I even go to have that done? New rider here and this is my first bike, sorry.
@@kaceyk2171 if parts are not available you can send out the chrome stanchions to be stripped and replated. It's not cheap by any means but it will be done right.
@@quickshiftoutdoors thanks a ton for the advice; what kinds of places would replate it? Like what should I google in my area to send them out? Machining/ metal fab. Company?
@@Dvaleays he scratched the chrome layer to get to the rusty part and we can see the pipes are no longer polished at the end of the video. I dont know how you call it bt I call it destroying chromes.
@@Dvaleays you can unrust steel with electrolysis (very long and need a big plastic container), with chemicals (not really good for the planet) or with steelwool and a lot of elbow grease (needs much elbow grease). or the better but most expensive way : go to a shop that can chrome again your stuff. but here he just scratch everything up and it'll rust again in less than 2 month.
You definitely got me motivated to restore my recently acquired but neglected ninja 500r. The front forks need rebuilt, and u definitely make it looks for the most part easy! I'm really glad I found your channel, keep it up good sir :)
These came out great! ..nice colour, very soft and delicate! ..I was sceptical when you hit the legs with that grinder,..but think you're ok with this. Always fun videos to follow, thanks!.
could leave the fork tube in the triple clamp until you got the spring retainer loose ,also leave the spring in the forks remove the bottom hex bolt. the spring tension will hold the damper.
hey man i just rebuilt my forks with atf and they ended up being very soft once i was riding the bike offroad so i would recomend you get a good fork fluid once you start really riding it
Did you add enough oil? I ended up having to add more than what the service manual said to get the shocks to stiffen up but they feel pretty good now. I have always used atf with success, I think it's more about the amount of oil than the type of oil
@@GoldGuyRides well when i switched it to actual fork oil i used the same amount as the atf which was the service amount. idk maybe im just picky lol if it feels good for you then send it my guy
Great job restoring the front suspension. Looks good as new. Though I was wondering if similar suspension springs need replacement because I know some builders recommend replacing them. They say the springs over time tend to sag and don't bounce back as much compared to new ones. Though I don't think I will replace mine too. am on a budget. but I would like to hear your opinion.
Thanks! The only reason I would change springs out is if I was going to swap out the stock springs for stiffer aftermarket springs. It would take a lot of abuse for the front fork springs to sag or shrink, but I'm sure it has happened before
Can already see some fork oil problems in the future since you decided to grind the slidetube with angle grinder. Now the tubes outside diameter is smaller than the inside of your oil seal. Might last a while but not long till oil starts finding its way out.
In my case, the pitting was not very deep at all, just deep enough to fill up with rust but not all the way through the chrome. Chrome still can get surface rust, so yeah I could sand them because I didn't sand all the way through the chrome.
Great job! The gold forks match the design so well! Especially with the new shiny black seals. If you don't mind me asking, why the ATF fluid instead of fork oil?
I really do not understand why you don’t just get an electronic version of the shop manual on line for free. It would save you a lot of time and frustration.
Please tell me you didn't really use sand paper on your fork stanchions, I wouldn't use anything much more than a scotch brute pad. Also the small Spring is your rebound Spring, which should be slid over the damping rod before it goes in the stanchion, not after. Personally I would remove this video, as it's very misleading. You really don't want people copying this. These mistakes could be costly at best, or dangerous at worse.
Loosen top caps while tubes are still clamped in the lower triple clamps. For bottom alem bolt; clamp individual fork lower in vice; with lead or aluminium sheet or "soft jaws";on the flat area. Then an alen drive on your impact wrench. May need to place a broom stick up inside. See how it goes. Well done figuring it out !. Caps are called dust boots :)
Great Job! I picked up a 1981 TS250 3 years ago and have been sitting on it. Current progress is I have split the case, every case seal replaced, new base gasket, new reed, fresh 1mm overstock hone job thanks to my coworker. Loads of other details but, keep it going man! Happy to see a win from you on the forks.
Sounds like a good project! Was there anything wrong with the Reed, Or did you just replace it as a preventative measure?
The metal reed was creased and the rubber was so dry and cracked. I split the case due to the crank case not even holding 1 psi from the missing piece of gasket. Someone was most assuredly in there before.
13:40
That small spring is the rebound spring and should have been slid over the short damper tube before you put it inside the fork tube not after.
It ensures the damper tube mushroom shaped end does not slam against the ridge inside the fork leg when the forks extended to full length after a bump.
Check out this diagram: www.google.com/search?q=ts185+fork+tube+diagram&oq=ts185+fork+tube+diagram&aqs=chrome..69i57.7361j0j9&client=ms-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=4_UrmltliXEbeM:
@@GoldGuyRides
Be careful of those diagrams because they don't show the assembly order,
They simply show the damper spring as being on the damper tube but don't show the order to fit it
Look at this one
www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/1980/ts185/front-fork
The damper spring is fitted at part number 11 in the image, the damper tube with spring on it is then slid down the inner fork leg so the spring is inside the inner fork leg on the damper tube, and then the lower damper spacer fits to the damper tube end outside below of the inner leg.
The instructions that go with this image likely explain that but if you only look at the image you can miss that point.
If you don't put the damper in the right way every time the forks extend after a bump if will feel like someone is hitting the handlebars with a hammer, this will eventually peen the top of the damper and may damage the inside of the upper fork legs too.
@@GoldGuyRides
It takes a while as a working mechanic before you develop a memory for how assemblies go back together.
Until then always lay parts out in line as they come apart and take an image on your phone so you don't forget how they go back together before you clean them up and get them mixed up.
GoldGuy He's right, look this TS125 forks stuff encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcR2lzHt00zDnI2UYV9AjugawRj1lumiT8-EM0VgchqdNLsniK7w that's the way you do it, and don't grind the tubes that way, it will break the oil seals anysoon.
Always enjoy your videos gold guy. Keep learning! And I look forward to seeing you have fun on this bike!
I wish I'd seen this video a month ago I'm restoring a 1979 Honda XR80 in extremely poor condition the fork oil was brown. I put it all back together with everything spotless and new seals but didn't clean the springs well enough.
Love how you have a crack it's got me keen to attempt a top end rebuild
Pro tip for the future... When you need to clamp the fork tubes use some clothing between what ever you grip them with...
Once again excellent job The only thing I do difference is I loosen the bolts for the folks before removing from the bike makes it a lot easy when their are fixed in place on the bike!
Looking forward to seeing the finished piece. This might be the best build yet
Thanks for being a fan Luke!
Awesome thanks. Got ts 250 I need to restore. No nothing about bikes so really helps
Jesus . Dont do that to forks people watching this.
your videos are pure gold! gold boy! they´re painful and funny at the same time!
You just destroyed your upper fork stanchions by grinding the plating. They will never seal now.... anyone watching this thinking of rebuilding forks..... please for the love of God do not grind your chrome fork stanchions 🤦♂️
What do you reccomend for an older bike that has no available parts? My forks are pitted and beginning to rust on my 80' mx100 so my only option is restoring with such a lack of old new stock parts. Could I get new pieces custom made instead so they will seal right... and where would I even go to have that done? New rider here and this is my first bike, sorry.
@@kaceyk2171 if parts are not available you can send out the chrome stanchions to be stripped and replated. It's not cheap by any means but it will be done right.
@@quickshiftoutdoors thanks a ton for the advice; what kinds of places would replate it? Like what should I google in my area to send them out? Machining/ metal fab. Company?
@@kaceyk2171 just Google fork tube replating services and you should be able to find a place. Good luck to ya
@@quickshiftoutdoors thank you for all your help
they are forking great and the hair cut aint bad lol nice video
Ahhh another comment about the haircut 😂. Thanks!
you just destroyed the chrome of the fork buddy ! =O
No he didn't
@@Dvaleays he scratched the chrome layer to get to the rusty part and we can see the pipes are no longer polished at the end of the video. I dont know how you call it bt I call it destroying chromes.
@@MrAJLeroy did he had anything else to do? It was all pitted.
@@Dvaleays you can unrust steel with electrolysis (very long and need a big plastic container), with chemicals (not really good for the planet) or with steelwool and a lot of elbow grease (needs much elbow grease).
or the better but most expensive way : go to a shop that can chrome again your stuff.
but here he just scratch everything up and it'll rust again in less than 2 month.
@@MrAJLeroy I 100% agree with you but all of that would cost a lot of money. Or atleast above the budget
Aaaarrrrgggghhh it was so painful watching him grind those fork tubes
SI JAMAS HAGAN ESO
You definitely got me motivated to restore my recently acquired but neglected ninja 500r. The front forks need rebuilt, and u definitely make it looks for the most part easy! I'm really glad I found your channel, keep it up good sir :)
These came out great! ..nice colour, very soft and delicate!
..I was sceptical when you hit the legs with that grinder,..but think you're ok with this. Always fun videos to follow, thanks!.
could leave the fork tube in the triple clamp until you got the spring retainer loose ,also leave the spring in the forks remove the bottom hex bolt. the spring tension will hold the damper.
Awesome job on the fork restore . Can't wait for the maiden voyage
Those came out super nice. Good job on those. That oil was nasty for sure.
hey man i just rebuilt my forks with atf and they ended up being very soft once i was riding the bike offroad so i would recomend you get a good fork fluid once you start really riding it
Did you add enough oil? I ended up having to add more than what the service manual said to get the shocks to stiffen up but they feel pretty good now. I have always used atf with success, I think it's more about the amount of oil than the type of oil
@@GoldGuyRides well when i switched it to actual fork oil i used the same amount as the atf which was the service amount. idk maybe im just picky lol if it feels good for you then send it my guy
Nice! Love the color on the forks, might do that to mine on my CB750
Worst looking fork oil EVER! Great job on the rebuild. I love the videos!
amazing job just what i looking for my bike!!!
Great job gold guy looking fab keep it up loving the vids
Amazing! Thank you so much for this well done video. I need to restore the forks on a 1980 mx100g I just picked up and this helped so much. :)
Damn homey, pretty fucking hard-core I like your attention to detail
Once again you've done the impossible. Great job...
Excellent work mate the forks are now looking 100% better. Even had time to get a haircut too 😂😂 well done 👍
I was wondering if that would get noticed 😂. Thanks for the comment!
You make it look so easy
Really? If you would have seen it in real time, unedited, you wouldn't think that🤣
Thanks ,great vid helped me a lot ...
Thanks
Excelent job I'm waiting for the rear ones
Woow is perfect now, and the gold looks perfecto. Awesome job man.
Nice job. Glad to see a new video.
Well showed 4 understanding
momma would be proud !
Nicely done dude! This thing is gonna be so awesome!!
For this process ,steel wool works good,go from 00. To 000. To 0000. But it looks good man
Thanx4sharing thanx4caring!!!!!
that old fork "oil" was so gnarly looking haha
Great job!!!!
great job as always!
I swear to god, this series is better than the walking dead :D With that intro and stuff... its so fuckin great! Greetings from Germany :)
norbertnowanski finde ich auch
In Finland we have a saying about snow in spring time. Its translated something like this. " New snow means the death for the old snow"
Great job restoring the front suspension. Looks good as new. Though I was wondering if similar suspension springs need replacement because I know some builders recommend replacing them. They say the springs over time tend to sag and don't bounce back as much compared to new ones.
Though I don't think I will replace mine too. am on a budget. but I would like to hear your opinion.
Thanks! The only reason I would change springs out is if I was going to swap out the stock springs for stiffer aftermarket springs. It would take a lot of abuse for the front fork springs to sag or shrink, but I'm sure it has happened before
@@GoldGuyRides aah okay. Thanks for the information
Sorry for the tube..
Really big mistake
Remember to remove the paint from the bearing races!
Yup that top triple clamp is a cast aluminum
Should have undone the caps while they were still in the yokes, it would stop them spinning.
Great job looks great would like send pics not sure how
Can already see some fork oil problems in the future since you decided to grind the slidetube with angle grinder. Now the tubes outside diameter is smaller than the inside of your oil seal. Might last a while but not long till oil starts finding its way out.
Fork tubes were pretty messed up, grinding might cause them to leak but who cares it looks great!
Great video man! Just one question: How long did you keep the bike? Did the pitting repair on the fork tubes stand the test of time?
you great man
Sanding the fork tubes so hard is not going to "eat" the outer layer of the tube itself?
I’ve been looking for an electroplater around my area, does sanding the chrome tubes down really work?
Yea, i had the same question in mind
In my case, the pitting was not very deep at all, just deep enough to fill up with rust but not all the way through the chrome. Chrome still can get surface rust, so yeah I could sand them because I didn't sand all the way through the chrome.
don't sand the fork tubes, you can use a green scrub pad if needed to clean up some scratches. They will never seal if you sand them..
Cant believe you put a grinder on the fork tubes.
I know right, I can't believe I was dumb enough to do that back in the day.
Por necesito saber q cantidad de aceite lleva cada barra muchas gracias de ante manos, también estoy restaurando mi ts desde Venezuela
Great job! The gold forks match the design so well! Especially with the new shiny black seals. If you don't mind me asking, why the ATF fluid instead of fork oil?
Maybe it ask for it. My 80s Yamaha ask for motor oil.
Gold why gold
Отличная работа! Но, может быть, ты испортил полировкой шток?
They look great, not sure if you knew but aluminium doesnt rust😊
I meant to say oxidation 😂
GoldGuy 😂😂😂
I have a 1977 ts185 the flathead does not work what does is an 8mm socket with 4 of the 6 sides cut off
Even on vacation I still can’t miss a vid 🤦♂️😂
Subtítulos en español por favor, excelente video!
A little knowledge. Hope you have plenty of fork oil.
I really do not understand why you don’t just get an electronic version of the shop manual on line for free. It would save you a lot of time and frustration.
Can you tell me the name of the component?
Please tell me you didn't really use sand paper on your fork stanchions, I wouldn't use anything much more than a scotch brute pad.
Also the small Spring is your rebound Spring, which should be slid over the damping rod before it goes in the stanchion, not after.
Personally I would remove this video, as it's very misleading. You really don't want people copying this.
These mistakes could be costly at best, or dangerous at worse.
I wish doing proper restoration was that easy, but actually that forks look like they will leak
Why do You post și rarley?
Making videos is a lot of work to do all on my own, and I have a lot of other stuff going on in my life too. TH-cam isn't paying the bills
don't do this with forks chrome if you remove it with sand paper you have to re chrome the forks
For a second they almost look like ohlin fork suspension. 👍🏼
Subtitles in spanish ???????
Ur so handsome 😍 I lyk u
please put some wood board on the roof of your shop!
a hammer to socket...yikes
" I grinded it "...Really? How about night school basic English course?
And result is your folk so hard.
Because you lossed last step
You need press folk and exhaust air pressure in side.
Old forks bleed themself, those will bleed themself after 30 min driving.