It seems like the kits are getting updates, such as the V2 version of the M8P. I can’t actually guarantee that my documentation is correct for the V2 M8P or any other changes.
This is just the video I was looking for! Great Build and Great advice! Just one question! The TAP printed by PCBWay was printed using their FDM process w/ ABS black filament or was it another process and/or material? :) Again Many Thanks!
@@ButterPockets Thanks! I literally just saw you mentioned it in the sponsor segment... I usually don't pay attention to those. Lesson learned :D How did you print the Stealthburner Faceplate with those Orange Highlights? Is it in CAD?
I’m in a final phase of building this exact Formbot kit, have few issues with electronics and wiring, you really helped me, thank you so much, also really great video by itself.
This guide is the answer to my misery in the past couple of weeks. I am finishing up the hardware part of my build, was already 90 percent done when I saw this video, and like your tips on what to print so will be going back and changing some things. But the main problem I've had is with software. For several days I've been blundering through trying to follow instructions in various BTT manuals, and it hasn't been working. I am a complete novice at coding this stuff and have never used Klipper, and frustrations and lack of understanding abound. I've been thinking of trying to hire someone to walk me through the implementation of Klipper and the Canbus install because I'm not getting anywhere searching the huge amount of stuff on discord and whatnot. I needed a guide that held my hand, and I think this is it. I'll be starting over from scratch and following your guide over the next few days to get set up. Thank you SO MUCH.
Thank you, I followed your steps according to the google document you've linked, and successfully finished connecting the CAN bus on my new Formbot 350mm V2.4R2 PRO+ kit. Do you mind sharing your config files to speedup the learning curve (First 3D Printer EVER)?
Wish this was out when I started my build a few weeks ago. Would have been a great help and saved me time and money (miss printed parts). I shared it to a build channel on the Voron discord. Will be a great help to others. Thanks
Dude your video comes very handy to me cause i am building this machine right now. Before i watched your video i knew that i had to do my homework concerning the klipper and can stuff. But it looks like you did my homework for me. Due to this THANKS a bunch my frtiend !
I was thinking... naaah I dont need no silly gantry mounting hooks, but when you made that comment about nerds having no friends (14:00) I pissed myself laughing, and promptly decided to print some. Thanks for the awesome and CONCISE video dude :) You are a ninja!
@ButterPockets This was my first flying gantry printer and it was very different to get right. Even compared to my custom printer. Loved that challenge!
Thanks for the video, this has been a great guide for me never putting a 3d printer together from Kit before. I have the same Formbot kit (m8p with CB1 and EBBsb2209(RP2040). I still can not get the printer.cfg file to make Klipper happy. Im using the suggested samples for m8p + CB1 for the printer.cfg and included the sample.cfg for the rp2040. I know you didn’t post your config file for reasons you mentioned in the video, I respect that. However, to the ones out there, like myself, following along with your video, having the same components...would you consider sharing your config file? I think it would help a lot of people like myself. Ive been stuck on the .cfg files for about 2 weeks now. Thanks again for the helpful content.
I gotta ask... what filaments did you use for the prints? Im loving that color scheme. Might have to build another Voron just to steal this color scheme!
@@ButterPockets Awesome, thank you! Just found it. Polymaker ASA Army Green... guess it's time for another project, lol. Might do a trident this time instead of another v2.4, and of course with a matching ERCF for multicolor goodness.
good afternoon, can you please upload the print.cfg file? otherwise nothing works for me and for some reason I can’t create a second uuid, namely from katapult
Gave you a thumbs up just because of the nerd comment. 😉Very interesting to see the whole process, but I'm boggled that anyone would ever choose this route. Not any cheaper than a good off the shelf machine, and how many hours of work did this take you, as well as how much money needs to be spent on tools in your prep part. It's so prone to error, I wonder what percentage of people end up with a well functioning printer out of it. Amusingly, you said it was all fine, but never actually showed it working, or what quality prints you get out of it.
I figured the video was already too long and planned to make a separate video on the quality. I didn’t really intend for this video to be how well the printer performs, since a voron is a voron, but more so a guide for this specific kit. Although, the quality out of a voron is pretty well documented and mostly up how well you build it. For what it’s worth my 2 vorons have the best print quality out of the 6 other printers that I have currently. Off the shelf printers are great but custom builds are as good as you make them! As far as the price it’s definitely comparable to an off the shelf printer but that what I tried to explain in the intro! I think off the shelf printers suit people and custom builds suit others. For me I definitely prefer the custom build route since I can always buy replacement parts and tweak the firmware as I like.
This guide was great, except I got caught on the last step of flashing klipper to the toolboard. Turns out you need to plug in the 120 ohm Termination Resistor. Please add this to your PDF
For anyone else going the Nevermore v6 route and mounting it under the bed, make sure you don't make the error I did and print the "Straight" cartridge that will just blow directly at the Voron 2.4 doors that are clearly not airtight. The "90deg" is the correct cartridge for this design so that the heated air recirculates in the printer instead of being blown out. The other cartridge style is for mounting to the back or side panel for a Trident or v0.
Dang man, you have more time than I do. It was only a few weeks ago you responded to my post on Reddit about this kit. Now it's finished....I need to rethink my priorities and get this finished. Also I did not know you weren't supposed to print the stl file of the SB main body, because I did print it and have it installed. I'd be interested to know what the difference is.
I did two in the past couple weeks! Haha In reality this was a lot of late nights and consuming the entire living room at the displeasure of my wife. I get a ton of enjoyment building printers though.
@@ButterPocketsI had the same question, what's different about the SB main body you recommended to print from STEP compared to the one recommended by formbot? I installed the latter and am wondering whether it's worth a redo.
@@Burnsian85if it fit then it’s right. Apparently they updated the STL and it was correct but then they replaced it with the wrong version. There’s a tab that slots into the other side of the CW2 and the current STL (at least like 1 week ago) had the wrong tab size to even fit. I printed it and I couldn’t assemble it. It’s from an older revision of the CW2 parts.
Hello, Thank you for the video! It has been a huge help. I was wondering if anyone has had an issue where the 2240 doesn't show up after the flash. Everything works as expected including the flash. When I shut down, remove the USB jumper, connect the can cable and run the query only 1 UUID shows up for the board under klipper. The katapult UUID doesn't show up.
Thanks for getting back to me. I was able to get it working but had to purchase replacement boards to figure it out. The m8p was bad. Replaced the sb2209 with no change, setup a new m8p and everything works. Attempting to get my m8p replaced but btt and formbot have not been much help so far.
They are both responding but ignoring the info I gave them. For example, I told them the 120 ohm resistors were in place and I verified 60 ohms between can high and low and their response was to ask if I had the jumpers in place for the 120 ohm resistors.
That’s incredibly frustrating. If I can help at all add me on discord @butterpockets. I can always try and help! Maybe not with replacement parts tho haha
The wiring diagram says to mount the DIN rails parallel to the bed extrusions. In your video, did you have them perpendicular? Things seemed to fit well. I'm about to do the electronics and am wondering if I should change the orientation? I'm so glad I found your video.
Yeah that’s one thing I *kind* of tried to hint on when I said that it’s hard to get to the SD card on the M8P. I haven’t really put too much thought into what it would look like that way. I went with the layout I have on both my 2.4s and it’s worked out well for me, but that doesn’t mean it’s best at all. So I’d say it totally works but it’s also possible the parallel method is better (it probably is). If I was going to do it again I’d look into the EMS mounting system which gets rid of din rails and replaces it with a modular printed system.
I can confirm that mounting parallel works much better for accessing the microSD, but the only downside is that the two MCU fans won't reach the PSU for cooling the way they would when mounting vertically. I'm not sure that matters because the MCU is the main thing we need the cooling for I suppose.
Thank you for this video. Thanks to you I managed to bring life to my Formbot Voron 2.4Pro+. Right now I'm doing the initial setup, but I'm getting stuck testing the end stops. The y-end stop works as expected, but the x-end stop and the z-end stop (tap) return the value triggered. That's understandable, because I don't know how and where to configure both. Can you point me in the right direction? Is it possible to get your config files so I can see how it should be done?
@@ButterPockets Thank you. In the meantime I got the end stops and all engines working as they should. In the endstop_pin line I first forgot the reference to 'EBBCan'... So now I'm a bit further along, but I'm stuck at the PROBE_CALIBRATE again. On the GitHub website I read that I had to do it manually, but it's not clear to me how...
Hello, I have manta m8p and followed your flashing tutorial and also many other, but none of them have the /dev/serial folder needed for the mcu, could you help?
Why did you first flash the katapult bootload on the mp8 and then overwrite it through dfutil with klipper. I agree that you don't need katapult on it because it also connects through usb with the cb1 but it seems like an unneccesary step. Katapult is a bootloader that makes updating firmware through canbus possible. It's really handy for toolhead boards but not needed for the main mcu.
I agree it seems unnecessary but I went through this process so many times and this is the one that worked. The other guides I linked have you do it as well. Edit: as a better answer. Because the M8P essentially emulates having a USB katapult device plugged in you need to load the first 8k as a bootloader and then klipper is written after that 8k so it doesn’t over write it. I actually did make a mistake in the video by not deploying the katapult firmware and it was corrected in the documentation (point out by the pinned comment). Unfortunately I can’t edit videos after they are already posted.
In the latest kit, they provide proper part for A drive, with mount for Y stopper, but you have to install it BEFORE assembling A drive. Otherwise you will have to disassemble and assemble it again and redo belts. Formbot is a nice kit, but instructions are awful.
Could you please give me a hint, where I have to place the X and Y endstop switch. I cannot find any manual for the actual Formbot Voron 2.4 Pro+. I ordered the printed parts from Formbot too. And there are some parts I don't know what they are for or where to place them. The Formbot documentation is a mess or not existing.
The X end stop is on the tool head. The TAP parts have a spot with 2 small holes meant for self tapping screws and the end stop. It’s why the plug wires are small cause they go right up the SB2209. And Y end stop is shown in the video towards the klipper install where the CAN cable routes on the gantry to the drag chain. It’s mounted right above the B motor and uses some additional printed parts that are listed in the doc!
Got the same printer from formbot. When i follow your document, in the last step when trying to flash klipper, i get an error with problems while flashing in several lines (ERROR:root:Flash Error...). Tried it over 5 times with different sd cards and followed step by step. Still cant get it to work.
So someone else had this exact same issue. I’ve had someone look over my instructions and they confirmed them to be correct. The weird part is even tho that happened if you query for the UUID you should see both devices show up as klipper. It seemingly worked for them even though they had the error. Unless we sit down together and look at it I am really at a loss of what the problem could be. You can add me on discord tho with the username “butterpockets” and we can try and check it out.
For what it’s worth I just went and updated my tool heads version of klipper and everything flashed fine. I followed my own instructions (I promise I didn’t do anything different) so I’m really not sure.
After some days i somehow managed to get it to work. I was about to repeat the process for the 10th(?) time with your methode (I tried some different ways without success, too). Before i started all over i once more looked for the uuids which were listed as klipper and katapult (thats where i stopped the day befor) and surprisingly they listed both as klipper. I couldnt beliefe what i was seeing. I followed your protocol and got the same error again. But i just restarted and got the two times klipper uuids again. So i just accepted that i got the error and went on with the setup of the cfg and against all odds it it just works. o_O I dont try to think about it anymore and im just happy that i finally got it to work.
I don’t have a recommendation honestly. I just figure that there must exist one that doesn’t leave so much of the paper on the tape. I’d check your local hardware store or potentially Amazon - probably also see what the voron team lists on their BOM.
Hi i was able to follow you until i got to "sudo nano /etc/network/interfaces.d/can0" portion, i get a message saying that that file doesnt exist and i dont know how to continue from there, any help?
You used the wrong version of Linux that doesn’t contain the same networking setup. The version I show in the video is only in the like “archive” now but I know it works.
@ButterPockets I was having a terrible time with these instructions UNTIL I realized that everywhere in your document where the code points to the katapult directory ("~/katapult/out/katapult.bin" and similar) you have to edit the line to capitalize the K in the Katapult folder! It seems like the Katapult folder probably always writes itself with upper case K, so I imagine other noobs may scratch their head for a while at this part too. Does this warrant an edit to your instructions file?
That’s really strange because I actually used my document to copy paste for the video and you can see it’s all lowercase for me. I wonder why it may be different?? Maybe I will add a line that says it may be capitalized? Edit: I would think that means in your initial git clone the K was capitalized in the command you ran so you just cloned the Git to “/Katapult”
@@ButterPockets Yes you are probably right. I'm such a noob at all this, and despite your great instructions, I still am stuck near the last page unable to get everything working. Facepalm.
@@ButterPockets Long story short, I'm at the very end on the last page and flashing Katapult is failing. I think the error code is suggesting the MCU can't reach the control board, but since they were talking to each other already up until now, that doesn't make much sense and replacing the CAN cable seems unlikely to work. I've checked my 120R jumpers, checked continuity of the CAN wires, and I have no idea what else to do.
Hello! Of course, you are great for making the instructions! but she is not correct!!! There is an error and because of the error it is not stitched! sudo dfu-util -a 0 -d 0483:df11 --dfuse-address 0x08002000 -D ~/klipper/out/klipper.bin mistake in address!!! here is the correct address 0x08020000 I spent 2 days studying TH-cam because of this!!!(((
It seems like the kits are getting updates, such as the V2 version of the M8P. I can’t actually guarantee that my documentation is correct for the V2 M8P or any other changes.
This is just the video I was looking for! Great Build and Great advice!
Just one question! The TAP printed by PCBWay was printed using their FDM process w/ ABS black filament or was it another process and/or material? :)
Again Many Thanks!
@@TheWayOfThePrint it’s SLS Nylon GF
@@ButterPockets Thanks! I literally just saw you mentioned it in the sponsor segment... I usually don't pay attention to those. Lesson learned :D
How did you print the Stealthburner Faceplate with those Orange Highlights? Is it in CAD?
Thanks for making a build guide that isn't just a 3+ hour live stream!
I wanted it to be as quick and concise as possible and still ended up being 40 minutes 😅.
@@ButterPockets don't worry :) we, viewers, love to see well-made and concise videos. No matter how long they are, and 40min isn't really long tbh.
Thanks. Your document was a huge help during the build.
I’m in a final phase of building this exact Formbot kit, have few issues with electronics and wiring, you really helped me, thank you so much, also really great video by itself.
This guide is the answer to my misery in the past couple of weeks. I am finishing up the hardware part of my build, was already 90 percent done when I saw this video, and like your tips on what to print so will be going back and changing some things. But the main problem I've had is with software. For several days I've been blundering through trying to follow instructions in various BTT manuals, and it hasn't been working. I am a complete novice at coding this stuff and have never used Klipper, and frustrations and lack of understanding abound. I've been thinking of trying to hire someone to walk me through the implementation of Klipper and the Canbus install because I'm not getting anywhere searching the huge amount of stuff on discord and whatnot. I needed a guide that held my hand, and I think this is it. I'll be starting over from scratch and following your guide over the next few days to get set up. Thank you SO MUCH.
Planning to order this exact kit very soon. Your video and docs came at the right time! Thanks a bunch for the hard work!
Glad it was helpful!
Seriously thank you so much for these detailed guides, it helped me greatly even though I didn't even have the exact same hardware!
Thank you, I followed your steps according to the google document you've linked, and successfully finished connecting the CAN bus on my new Formbot 350mm V2.4R2 PRO+ kit. Do you mind sharing your config files to speedup the learning curve (First 3D Printer EVER)?
How long was assembly time in total... I'm intrigued 🤔
Wish this was out when I started my build a few weeks ago. Would have been a great help and saved me time and money (miss printed parts). I shared it to a build channel on the Voron discord. Will be a great help to others. Thanks
I’m glad it’s helpful. But oh no 😅 which channel? I am in the voron discord.
Just wanna say thanks for a great summary doc that you did!
Dude your video comes very handy to me cause i am building this machine right now. Before i watched your video i knew that i had to do my homework concerning the klipper and can stuff. But it looks like you did my homework for me. Due to this THANKS a bunch my frtiend !
I was thinking... naaah I dont need no silly gantry mounting hooks, but when you made that comment about nerds having no friends (14:00) I pissed myself laughing, and promptly decided to print some. Thanks for the awesome and CONCISE video dude :) You are a ninja!
Thanks so much for this tutorial! All your help is worth a lot!
This looks almost exactly like my Micron+
Very nice color choice and great build!
Awesome! I’ve been eyeing formbots micron+ as well. Can’t have enough flying gantry printers
@ButterPockets This was my first flying gantry printer and it was very different to get right. Even compared to my custom printer. Loved that challenge!
Nice build! Welcome to Voron!
Thanks for the video, this has been a great guide for me never putting a 3d printer together from Kit before. I have the same Formbot kit (m8p with CB1 and EBBsb2209(RP2040). I still can not get the printer.cfg file to make Klipper happy. Im using the suggested samples for m8p + CB1 for the printer.cfg and included the sample.cfg for the rp2040. I know you didn’t post your config file for reasons you mentioned in the video, I respect that. However, to the ones out there, like myself, following along with your video, having the same components...would you consider sharing your config file? I think it would help a lot of people like myself. Ive been stuck on the .cfg files for about 2 weeks now. Thanks again for the helpful content.
That's a great question an answer would be nice.
I gotta ask... what filaments did you use for the prints? Im loving that color scheme. Might have to build another Voron just to steal this color scheme!
It was all polymaker ASA! If you check it out on Amazon you’ll see like “military green” or something and the orange.
@@ButterPockets Awesome, thank you! Just found it. Polymaker ASA Army Green... guess it's time for another project, lol. Might do a trident this time instead of another v2.4, and of course with a matching ERCF for multicolor goodness.
good afternoon, can you please upload the print.cfg file? otherwise nothing works for me
and for some reason I can’t create a second uuid, namely from katapult
Gave you a thumbs up just because of the nerd comment. 😉Very interesting to see the whole process, but I'm boggled that anyone would ever choose this route. Not any cheaper than a good off the shelf machine, and how many hours of work did this take you, as well as how much money needs to be spent on tools in your prep part. It's so prone to error, I wonder what percentage of people end up with a well functioning printer out of it. Amusingly, you said it was all fine, but never actually showed it working, or what quality prints you get out of it.
I figured the video was already too long and planned to make a separate video on the quality. I didn’t really intend for this video to be how well the printer performs, since a voron is a voron, but more so a guide for this specific kit. Although, the quality out of a voron is pretty well documented and mostly up how well you build it. For what it’s worth my 2 vorons have the best print quality out of the 6 other printers that I have currently. Off the shelf printers are great but custom builds are as good as you make them! As far as the price it’s definitely comparable to an off the shelf printer but that what I tried to explain in the intro! I think off the shelf printers suit people and custom builds suit others. For me I definitely prefer the custom build route since I can always buy replacement parts and tweak the firmware as I like.
This guide was great, except I got caught on the last step of flashing klipper to the toolboard. Turns out you need to plug in the 120 ohm Termination Resistor. Please add this to your PDF
I pointed that out in the video but I added a more direct callout in the PDF!
For anyone else going the Nevermore v6 route and mounting it under the bed, make sure you don't make the error I did and print the "Straight" cartridge that will just blow directly at the Voron 2.4 doors that are clearly not airtight. The "90deg" is the correct cartridge for this design so that the heated air recirculates in the printer instead of being blown out. The other cartridge style is for mounting to the back or side panel for a Trident or v0.
I did the same thing :) I re-printed it after the video
This will also help me with my Formbot Trident build
Dang man, you have more time than I do. It was only a few weeks ago you responded to my post on Reddit about this kit. Now it's finished....I need to rethink my priorities and get this finished. Also I did not know you weren't supposed to print the stl file of the SB main body, because I did print it and have it installed. I'd be interested to know what the difference is.
I did two in the past couple weeks! Haha
In reality this was a lot of late nights and consuming the entire living room at the displeasure of my wife. I get a ton of enjoyment building printers though.
@@ButterPockets I really enjoy building also, That's the best part, I'm halfway through my build
@@ButterPocketsI had the same question, what's different about the SB main body you recommended to print from STEP compared to the one recommended by formbot? I installed the latter and am wondering whether it's worth a redo.
@@Burnsian85if it fit then it’s right. Apparently they updated the STL and it was correct but then they replaced it with the wrong version. There’s a tab that slots into the other side of the CW2 and the current STL (at least like 1 week ago) had the wrong tab size to even fit. I printed it and I couldn’t assemble it. It’s from an older revision of the CW2 parts.
where did you find the files for the design of your stealthburner front cover? I like where the colors are placed.
I did it myself :)
Congrats on the Voron, now that you’ve built one printer it’s time to build another haha maybe take a look at the annex k3 ;)
I do like the k3 a lot. I don’t need a huge printer for what I do so 180mm3 is perfectly fine with me. I really like Cartesian as well.
Hello,
Thank you for the video! It has been a huge help. I was wondering if anyone has had an issue where the 2240 doesn't show up after the flash. Everything works as expected including the flash. When I shut down, remove the USB jumper, connect the can cable and run the query only 1 UUID shows up for the board under klipper. The katapult UUID doesn't show up.
I know this is a week late, but double check the 120Ohm terminating resistors on both the M8P and the SB2209.
Thanks for getting back to me. I was able to get it working but had to purchase replacement boards to figure it out. The m8p was bad. Replaced the sb2209 with no change, setup a new m8p and everything works. Attempting to get my m8p replaced but btt and formbot have not been much help so far.
That sucks and I’m sorry to hear it. You’ve reached out to both Formbot and BTT? Which has been more responsive?
They are both responding but ignoring the info I gave them. For example, I told them the 120 ohm resistors were in place and I verified 60 ohms between can high and low and their response was to ask if I had the jumpers in place for the 120 ohm resistors.
That’s incredibly frustrating. If I can help at all add me on discord @butterpockets. I can always try and help! Maybe not with replacement parts tho haha
Great video!
[o] is actually for "opaque" (e.g., Black)!
I knew I’d sound stupid about something 😂
The wiring diagram says to mount the DIN rails parallel to the bed extrusions. In your video, did you have them perpendicular? Things seemed to fit well. I'm about to do the electronics and am wondering if I should change the orientation? I'm so glad I found your video.
Yeah that’s one thing I *kind* of tried to hint on when I said that it’s hard to get to the SD card on the M8P. I haven’t really put too much thought into what it would look like that way. I went with the layout I have on both my 2.4s and it’s worked out well for me, but that doesn’t mean it’s best at all. So I’d say it totally works but it’s also possible the parallel method is better (it probably is). If I was going to do it again I’d look into the EMS mounting system which gets rid of din rails and replaces it with a modular printed system.
@@ButterPockets EMS mounting system - You just blew my mind again. I wish I had seen this before I mounted my electronics.
I can confirm that mounting parallel works much better for accessing the microSD, but the only downside is that the two MCU fans won't reach the PSU for cooling the way they would when mounting vertically. I'm not sure that matters because the MCU is the main thing we need the cooling for I suppose.
@@Burnsian85 Would you happen to have a photo of how you mounted your electronics underneath?
Thank you for this video. Thanks to you I managed to bring life to my Formbot Voron 2.4Pro+.
Right now I'm doing the initial setup, but I'm getting stuck testing the end stops. The y-end stop works as expected, but the x-end stop and the z-end stop (tap) return the value triggered. That's understandable, because I don't know how and where to configure both. Can you point me in the right direction? Is it possible to get your config files so I can see how it should be done?
You either need to invert it with a “!” On the pin and/or add a “^” (especially on the tap pin) which is a pull up resistor.
@@ButterPockets Thank you. In the meantime I got the end stops and all engines working as they should. In the endstop_pin line I first forgot the reference to 'EBBCan'...
So now I'm a bit further along, but I'm stuck at the PROBE_CALIBRATE again. On the GitHub website I read that I had to do it manually, but it's not clear to me how...
@@jefgeraerts3603I’d consult with the voron discord if you get stuck. But the tap GitHub should guide you.
@@ButterPockets Ok. Thank you for the advice
can you please help with the printer.cfg, I have followe the tutorial to the letter and can't get printer.cfg going
Can you do a tutorial?
Great work, have you done any work on fine tuning and dialling in speeds or do you know of any good guides.
100% just use Ellis’ guide. Ellis3dp.com
Hello, I have manta m8p and followed your flashing tutorial and also many other, but none of them have the /dev/serial folder needed for the mcu, could you help?
You don’t use that command, you use lsusb.
Why did you first flash the katapult bootload on the mp8 and then overwrite it through dfutil with klipper. I agree that you don't need katapult on it because it also connects through usb with the cb1 but it seems like an unneccesary step. Katapult is a bootloader that makes updating firmware through canbus possible. It's really handy for toolhead boards but not needed for the main mcu.
I agree it seems unnecessary but I went through this process so many times and this is the one that worked. The other guides I linked have you do it as well.
Edit: as a better answer. Because the M8P essentially emulates having a USB katapult device plugged in you need to load the first 8k as a bootloader and then klipper is written after that 8k so it doesn’t over write it. I actually did make a mistake in the video by not deploying the katapult firmware and it was corrected in the documentation (point out by the pinned comment). Unfortunately I can’t edit videos after they are already posted.
In the latest kit, they provide proper part for A drive, with mount for Y stopper, but you have to install it BEFORE assembling A drive. Otherwise you will have to disassemble and assemble it again and redo belts. Formbot is a nice kit, but instructions are awful.
It’s great that they updated it, but I hate that my video is already out of date!
I had to de-pin the CanBus cable to have it fit in the PG7 gland
If you pull out the rubber stopper it will fit. It took some shoving but it worked! De-pinning makes it much easier tho.
When i try to go to mainsail/my CB1 ip, I just get stuck at "initializing" any idea on a fix?
Could you please give me a hint, where I have to place the X and Y endstop switch. I cannot find any manual for the actual Formbot Voron 2.4 Pro+. I ordered the printed parts from Formbot too. And there are some parts I don't know what they are for or where to place them. The Formbot documentation is a mess or not existing.
The X end stop is on the tool head. The TAP parts have a spot with 2 small holes meant for self tapping screws and the end stop. It’s why the plug wires are small cause they go right up the SB2209. And Y end stop is shown in the video towards the klipper install where the CAN cable routes on the gantry to the drag chain. It’s mounted right above the B motor and uses some additional printed parts that are listed in the doc!
Thank you very much for the support.
Hi how to configure the armbian first run.text.template cant connect to wifi
What filament brand/color did you use for the green?
It’s polymaker ASA in army green!
Got the same printer from formbot. When i follow your document, in the last step when trying to flash klipper, i get an error with problems while flashing in several lines (ERROR:root:Flash Error...). Tried it over 5 times with different sd cards and followed step by step. Still cant get it to work.
So someone else had this exact same issue. I’ve had someone look over my instructions and they confirmed them to be correct. The weird part is even tho that happened if you query for the UUID you should see both devices show up as klipper. It seemingly worked for them even though they had the error. Unless we sit down together and look at it I am really at a loss of what the problem could be. You can add me on discord tho with the username “butterpockets” and we can try and check it out.
For what it’s worth I just went and updated my tool heads version of klipper and everything flashed fine. I followed my own instructions (I promise I didn’t do anything different) so I’m really not sure.
After some days i somehow managed to get it to work. I was about to repeat the process for the 10th(?) time with your methode (I tried some different ways without success, too). Before i started all over i once more looked for the uuids which were listed as klipper and katapult (thats where i stopped the day befor) and surprisingly they listed both as klipper. I couldnt beliefe what i was seeing. I followed your protocol and got the same error again. But i just restarted and got the two times klipper uuids again. So i just accepted that i got the error and went on with the setup of the cfg and against all odds it it just works. o_O I dont try to think about it anymore and im just happy that i finally got it to work.
@@LanYuithat’s exactly what happened to the other person. We ignored the error and it just worked! No idea what happened.
What better foam tape would you recommend?
I don’t have a recommendation honestly. I just figure that there must exist one that doesn’t leave so much of the paper on the tape. I’d check your local hardware store or potentially Amazon - probably also see what the voron team lists on their BOM.
I bought that same machinist square from amazon.....tip: it was not square at all......
I used my “angle-izer” and check it and saw 89.9 degrees! I’m positive that the Amazon specials don’t have great QC tho.
Hi i was able to follow you until i got to "sudo nano /etc/network/interfaces.d/can0" portion, i get a message saying that that file doesnt exist and i dont know how to continue from there, any help?
im having the same problem. i see this was posted today ''Debian 12 (Bookworm) Server / CLI'' I am going to give it a try once the printer is free
You used the wrong version of Linux that doesn’t contain the same networking setup. The version I show in the video is only in the like “archive” now but I know it works.
@@ButterPockets Thank you, you are correct the one in the archive works ''Armbian_24.2.3_Bigtreetech-cb1_bookworm_legacy_6.1.79.img.xz''
@ButterPockets I was having a terrible time with these instructions UNTIL I realized that everywhere in your document where the code points to the katapult directory ("~/katapult/out/katapult.bin" and similar) you have to edit the line to capitalize the K in the Katapult folder! It seems like the Katapult folder probably always writes itself with upper case K, so I imagine other noobs may scratch their head for a while at this part too. Does this warrant an edit to your instructions file?
That’s really strange because I actually used my document to copy paste for the video and you can see it’s all lowercase for me.
I wonder why it may be different?? Maybe I will add a line that says it may be capitalized?
Edit: I would think that means in your initial git clone the K was capitalized in the command you ran so you just cloned the Git to “/Katapult”
@@ButterPockets Yes you are probably right. I'm such a noob at all this, and despite your great instructions, I still am stuck near the last page unable to get everything working. Facepalm.
@@ButterPockets Long story short, I'm at the very end on the last page and flashing Katapult is failing. I think the error code is suggesting the MCU can't reach the control board, but since they were talking to each other already up until now, that doesn't make much sense and replacing the CAN cable seems unlikely to work. I've checked my 120R jumpers, checked continuity of the CAN wires, and I have no idea what else to do.
@@Burnsian85 message me on discord, it’s just “Butterpockets”
Hello! Of course, you are great for making the instructions! but she is not correct!!! There is an error and because of the error it is not stitched! sudo dfu-util -a 0 -d 0483:df11 --dfuse-address 0x08002000 -D ~/klipper/out/klipper.bin
mistake in address!!! here is the correct address 0x08020000
I spent 2 days studying TH-cam because of this!!!(((
The address 0x08002000 address is correct because you only need a 2kb offset for katapult. You should not need a 20000 offset.
@@ButterPockets whith address 2000, can device is not detected! My board manta v2
@@borys9549my documentation is for the v1.1 which is stated on the top of the doc.