Great video- and thanks for the shout out! I had very similar experiences with many of the issues you ran into. Overall I think it's a good budget kit option if folks go into it knowing the potential tradeoffs, and I think you did a nice job covering them. The parts seem to be a bigger issue for your kit- I only ran into two defective parts, and those were fairly easy reprints. I really do think Siboor should take a hard look at quality control of them.
Alan, I really appreciate this video as I’m still considering this kit. It was rather serendipitous that I mentioned this kit on your 0.1 review and less than a day later you follow up with your review. There’s really no excuse for the state of your printed parts. From the research I’ve done their documentation is lacking badly. I’ve heard they’re decent with customer service and sending out replacement parts, but they really do need to work on their QC. If I have to deal with a few dodgy parts I can certainly print them on a different machine but ideally everything should be good to go including all the hardware and linear rails. Thanks again and keep up the great work, cheers!
Just finished building my first printer (Trident 250). You're the first builder I've seen to use 123 blocks when squaring up the frame in a video. It removes much of the struggle IMO. Round spacer block kit was my other machine shop pull. Loved how tidy your wiring came out. Big shoutout to the VORON Discord community for helping me get mine going! They were right there to help.
Watching this has me nervous about the printed parts. I haven’t seen any issues with the black parts yet but I still have a ways to go. Wondering if that particular batch of printed black parts had an issue or if it’s going to be the case for many others as well. Definitely seems like printed part qc needs to be better regardless.
thats crazy.... i did not have any of that nonsense on mine. I will get with siboor team and tell them to double down on the QA. Honestly the splitting parts is not acceptable. Modbot if you need reprints let me know. Ill get them for you quickly.
Yea, it was suprising. You know how it can be, temperamental days with ABS and all, but there were obvious issues that should have been seen in packaging.
I also had poor layer adhesion on my V0.1, although not as bad as this kit by the looks of it. My first prints were replacement high stress parts like the extruder mounts for when they failed (the extruder rail mount loves to split and was hard to diagnose).
I did have some issues with poor layer adhesion. However, nothing that was a important part. I did have to reprint a couple of pieces, but they were all small. On the plus side, the printed parts looked amazing. I think a few more degrees (5-10) higher print temperature and they would have been perfect.
Alan, great video and I wish I can build a voron as fast as you can! Looking forward to future videos, like what to do with all those printers we have build and how to advance 3D printer technology as hobbyist!! (Basically finding more excuses so we can buy/build more printers!)
Glad I found this, they contacted me about purchasing - for review - their 2.4 kit. Since I am not a big channel, not much of any discounts. But I've heard from the various creators how problematic these kits are. I have an LDO kit at work and that's been amazing. Siboor offered the 0.2 kit for not much money and I think I will politely decline. Yes, even small channels can smell bad quality =)
Agree with you, even if I could re-print the parts on it the hassle of dismantling everything again to replace them makes it a no go for me. BTW love the colour scheme of your OG black/green 0.1, guessing you swapped filament mid print? Looks awesome👍
As someone that's never printed but have always been curious I've just never had the free time after a life changing car accident I'm home bound and have been watching your reviews thinking about buying one. I absolutely love the fact you nit pick the hell out these machines. Thanks for your honest review and with that off to watch another.
I just picked up this kit a few weeks ago and to their credit, they've fixed the problems you've pointed out. Mind you, I ordered the kit without the ABS parts since I have a Bambu P1S to print them but otherwise, things have gone quite smoothly so far.
I had exactly the same issues with parts I printed with a bad patch from Esun filament .. I didn't notice it until I made some changes to the x carriage , I notice a layer adhesion crack .
SIBOOR offers a version of the kit without any ABS printed parts (also no main board). You could get that, and use the print it forward program to get the printed parts, or print them yourself. If I were to get this kit, I'd probably print the parts in PETG (since I CAN), and go for the BTT pico board (that was actually designed for this board) along with a RPi Zero (2) W. I'd have to install the klipper firmware myself, but there are many good tutorials on the web showing how to do that. I've heard that PETG will work well with a Voron, especially if you don't intend to print in ABS. I mostly use PLA and PETG myself, both of these materials are much easier to print that ABS. PETG is reasonably strong, and almost as heat resistant as ABS. BTW SIBOOR also offers CNC'ed metal parts.
I smile every time I see one of your videos because you look so much like a rougher, grittier version of Matt Parker. For those of you who hadn't seen it before, I'm sorry. It can't be unseen. :)
I swear i watched the whole video just for the music from @5:00 lol. Do you know if Siboor is donating anything to the Voron project to further it or just selling kits and raking in the $$ ?
mine came with the black parts in good condition. one of the xy motors doesn't have the shaft aligned.. it didn't come with the connection diagram, so I connected the display wrongly and it doesn't work either. the rest is ok.
Thank you. It’s a “Spool Ring” for running the cardboard spools in the Bambu Lab AMS. The rollers in it don’t grip cardboard very well for some reason.
I am interested in knowing which brands of stepper motors and belts are used. Additionally, do you happen to know which extruder kit is also utilized? Changing the hotend poses no problem, and I can print the necessary parts in advance with my Voron 2.4. I am eagerly looking forward to building a Voron 0.2, assuming the only issues are related to the printed parts and hotend.
I just got a kit from Siboor last week. Extruder motor is a moons and the other 3 are siboor branded. I opted for the cnc all metal parts and so far so good. Gates belt also
I kind of wonder if those black parts are printed in eSun ABS+ or something else analogous to it. Especially with batches in the last year or so, that stuff has notoriously poor layer adhesion, and that nice matte sheen is characteristic of ABS+
I know this comment is old but from what I've seen Siboor were using eSun ABS+ but have since changed due to the known poor layer adhesion with that filament. Their updated "Aug2023" kits seem to use a better brand of filament that has less issues.
I have a V6 Style hot end with the same ceramic heater; 2 of them actually. one of them is doing fine and does heat up quick which is nice. but the other one has been very unreliable. unbelievable stringing, temp swings and randomly losing the thermistor signal. turns out the ceramic was cracked. My conclusion is to stay away from the ceramic and stick with all metal construction. sure doesn't heat up as fast, but really, you always have to wait a while to the bed to heat up anyway.
I would LOVE to have a Voron, but there's just too much fiddly crap for costing WAY too much money. I realize that this is all cutting edge stuff, but even looking at this with the "My First Voron" mindset, I agree that the value and quality control isn't there. The problem is that for the LDO kits you mentioned the price point is not in my ballpark. So I'll just sit here drooling while I print garbage on my Ender 3 like the poor pleb that I am.
It’s just red. My camera has a love hate with red it reproduces it so vibrant and bright that I have to desaturate it for videos so it doesn’t overpower other things. As such my videos never 100% reflect red the right way.
As someone who already has a printer, comfortable working on 3D printers and would like to try to step up to a voron. I would say this is a good kit to start with... $780 AUD delivered is under half of what an LDO kit is after delivery and parts ... I think I'll be going it a go, using your link of course.. 😉
Much appreciated and best of luck with it. They already seem to be taking some action on critiques from myself and some others. I hope it works out well for you.
Good luck! I hope you enjoy putting it together as much as I did. It did take me a bit longer to put together, but it was mostly the directions from Voron could be better.
So.... Update: Printer was short on bearings and washers and one of the linear rails has some real bad jerkie movement(almost feels like the little ball bearings have flat spots) and that's without being in the printer... yes I lubed... after picking some spares I have finished assembling the printer only to discover I was getting a thermistor error, fixed that but the extruder motor lasted about 100mm before failing... now it just "shakes" like something is broken inside stopping it moving (although I can move by hand)
@@Xalies Those are some rough things, sorry to hear that. Short on bearings is kind of ridiculous. Glad you worked that out. I'd recommend a good LDO motor to replace the extruder one. I haven't had problems with the SIBOOR provided motors but I run LDO ones on all my long term builds.
My Siboor V 0.2 stepper motors are included with sockets, not like yours. There is an additional issue about Gemini V3 Wrong temperature indicating issue (Seems like that's only for specific batch of board). can you please mention this on video?
I chose not to mention the board temp issue because it didn’t cause any usability issues on my unit. Also the board isn’t SIBOORs fault, it is Mellow’s, so I wasn’t going to knock them for that issue. More info on the Discord seems to indicate it may just be a reporting error reading the wrong temp.
@MandicReally I meant info for potential buyers - not about the right or wrong. As I heard, the wrong indicated temperature is not actual value. It is caused by false voltage reading and not gona cause temperature related problem like throttling.
I think if I were building one of these I would rather pay a little more for a better quality kit, as you say this is aimed at a novice builder and there are too many issues that would cause problems for the novice builder
I could but then I’m concerned the 0.2 part cooling won’t keep up. I find 235-240 to be an ideal temp for Polymaker ASA. Pushing it hotter just to flow better usually leads to quality degradation.
I'm not familiar with this style printer but can someone explain the thought behind it? More or less why 450ish bucks is budget friendly when there's pre-assembled printers with better specs for less money. Is it the DIY aspect of it? But if that's the case most companies sell stuff for less if you have to do it yourself and like I mentioned this is more than a handful of pre-assembled printers. Maybe I'm missing something huge and please let me know!
“Better specs” is highly subjective. This is an enclosed printer capable of printing higher temp materials. It used a compact and strong core-xy system that can print very fast (if flowrate permits). It has a small build volume but how often do most folks print things that don’t fit in a 120 cubed build volume? For a desktop rapid prototyping machine it is extremely useful. Get small parts done very quickly so you can iterate on them fast. Sure you can find machines that fit some or all of these parameters, but few that hit all of them. Those that due are averaging a higher price. It’s also meant to be a DIY machine. No proprietary parts you won’t be able to replace a year from now when the company moves on to a new design. It’s upgradable and simply fun to build. The machine isn’t for everyone, but it is a great machine for those who need or want it’s capabilities (me).
@@MandicReally "Better specs" is not subjective, it's quantifiable. The answer to your second question is a lot, hence the reason that printers with builds up to 400+ exist. Third, depends on what you're prototyping but I doubt it's really that fast when you have to print parts one by one and you still have to wait for the other parts to print before you can see if it works. Fourth, there is only one printer company (that I know of) currently that uses proprietary parts which is Bambu Labs, everyone else uses off the self stuff, most of it is completely open-source stuff. I'm not hating on the little thing and there's a use for it somewhere, just not at the huge probably 200% markup that these kit companies are trying to push. It's $50 worth of parts max. What's it going to take for the printer community to start looking at printers in a price-to-performance ratio like computers? We don't pay more for the experience or frustration of building our computers, we pay more to have them built for us.
Better specs? This little printer is VERY fast and has linear rails on all three axes. It is fully enclosed and can print any high-temperature filament. My use case for it is printing things like gears in glass-filled nylon. Today I spent some time making parts and putting them in my automated test jig and running them until failure, then redesigning. I want a small and fast printer to speed up this interactive design process.
@crysiscontained4421 You canself-sourcee the parts for $50??? I doubt it. The Raspberry Pi3 alone costs $28. The cheapest stepper motoers you can buy are $10 each and you need three for them. So already you are are $58. Then you need some 1515 extrusions and quite a lot more. There are sop,mething like 12 laser-cut acrillic pannels and have you priced quality linear rails?
I'm looking for a good value voron v0.2 kit. And I'm wondering how this siboor kit would compare to the formbot kit. 247printig made a good comparison between the formbot v0.1 and ldo v0.1 kit. And after seeing that I'm leaning towards the formbot v0.2 kit. In his comparison the ldo had some issues and the formbot didnt. I'd prefere the formbot over the siboor because it includes a kirigami bed mount and I can choose the dragon hotend. Its no issue to me that it doesnt include the printed parts as I already have a printer. Does anybody advise against the formbot kit?
The extrusions on the formbot kit are HORRIBLE. Mine had goop on some, all the blind joint taped threads want to pull out and require a good amount of loctite to stay together. The kit was missing a lot of things and am still working to get shit fixed or replaced 3 months in. The rails I got were smooth but had a very small amount of preload and the x axis rail needed to be replaced. It wobbled in 2 axes and resonance and print quality suffered drastically. The PSU it came with had a lot of coil whine which was pretty annoying as well. That’s been my experience and I have a V0.1 kit. They told me the 0.2 kit has a Z1 preload rail and it is better but still not great.
@@toddzino58 might’ve just been unlucky but I’ve spent in total about $700 US (including 400 for the kit) trying to get this shitty kit to work. Ended up ordering new frame rails bed mount (kirigami deflects too much to be usable) needed a new hardware kit because the screw heads were sloppy in my HSS drivers that I didn’t want to ruin anything. New mcu (got a doa). Just a bunch of irritating shit. I’m on the second round of replacements because stuff just breaks or doesn’t work or came missing. Highly regret and wish I would’ve self sourced
I seem to remember folks saying they use ESun with the last kit. I found Hatchbox color matched one of the parts. I’ve never used ESun ABS to say. I stick to Polymaker as it treats me really well and has a wide product range.
@@MandicReally with esun abs+ it seems the variety is huge. Some like it and have no issues. Some others tell stories like mine. Maybe bad batches here and there - so bad quality control?! I do not know. I have tried other materials from them, Petg and pla+. Those were ok
Honestly, a really good question. I greatly prefer the top hat of the V0.2 vs the 0.1 (not aesthetically but functionally). The 0.1 doesn’t come with a screen or good quality bed. The only other thing is the 0.2 “Mini-StealthBurner” is nicer than the Mini-Afterburner in every way. A lot? No. So… really hard to say. I’d not recommend the 0.1 kit without some upgrades (see that review) but you can likely get it and those upgrades for less than this one.
man for $500 I would expect some MUCH better quality control. that's $200 more than an A1 Mini that is rock solid right out of the box with no assembly and only $100 cheaper than a Bambu P1P.
11.5-12.5 with CHT style nozzle is a bit dissapointing, even E3D Revo can be pushed to 14 also with bad quality of printed parts, the first few prints should be reserved for replacing those parts
It’s hard to say what’s what. I could have push higher temp and probably flowed more but I tested at temps I actually print at. It almost seemed to push 14mm3/s, but in a real actually print it was skipping the extruder at that level. So 12.5 is “safe” level of flow.
You have to re-wire and terminate cabling and it doesn't have enough hardware to complete the build? That's awful... The questionable printed parts made me remember an anet et4 I bought with the printed parts looked like dog crap and never got the printer working.
Yea, Greg’s Maker Corner actually has rails that were worse than mine. They actually sent me brand new ones before I even started. I inspected the rails I had and missed that little bit of corrosion. (The Z rails are the old ones, I mixed up and didn’t replace.) So SIBOOR did dispatch new rails. I’d assume they’d do that for anyone who had an issue but I can’t know that for sure.
Great video and super informational. I just don’t get why the voron style printer’s build areas are so small and how that appeals to people? Cool it can make a 15 minute benchy, literally anything else you want to print will have to be 1000 pieces.
I would say a solid 25-50% of things I print fit within this build volume. It used to be more before I started printing silly big things a lot. For a desktop rapid prototype machine (why I built my 0.1) it’s excellent. There are also 250, 300, & 350mm V2.4 & Trident machines. Look out for a video about a 350mm V2.4 I built with 3DPrintingNerd coming out this Saturday!
It really depends on what you print. Over 75% of the things I personally print will fit in this build volume. The portability of the design (once you add handles) also really appealed to me, if I want to print ASA I can easily carry it to the garage.
"Budget" is sort of subjective here. That 0.2 looks to be like a 150x150 plate, which is kinda small for that price point. Granted it is going to come with everything you need, including the glass to encase it, which is nice. Still the build volume to price ratio is quite bad compared to what you can find out there.
No, the small build volume is a selling point. The printer is so small it does not take up much space. The V0.2 with it's 150mm build plate can print every part needed to build a V2.4. So it is a quite good printer for my robotics projects. I can build a medium-sized quadruped robot and none of the 3D printed parts are over 150mm. The V0.2 works well for making functional prototypes for all kinds of machines. That said, it would have to be your second printer.
@@chrisalbertson5838 I was talking about the price point vs build volume. The Voron Printers are amazingly good printers, I now have a 2.4 myself. The smaller build volume options for Voron printers are very expensive when compared to other printers of the same size, or even the same kinematics. The only exception being the 2.4 350 standing alone at its build volume and the price point (LDO kit is best kit). There is bigger, the Neptune 4 Max is a whopping 400 build plate but is a bed slinger to boot, and is about half the price of a 2.4. I built my 2.4 using a pair of Neptune 2S's that are a few years old now, with several upgrades I have done to them over the years (as is with any Ender 3 clone). I used ASA for my parts, not ABS, for better strength and, most importantly, UV resistance.
Uhh... preinstalled klipper? This is a computer with a linux operating system that you have no control over how it is installed. It could open a backdoor to your network. I would strongly recommend sandboxing it, taking out the configuration files and reinstalling it.
You or I might want to use a different Linux install. But the average kit-builder has zero experience with Linux and is not going to be editing a config file over ssh
Fully open source, off the shelf parts easily available, & customizable. Some folks like to know a machine in and out, every single screw of it. Some like to buy an appliance. No right or wrong, just different cases.
@@VampireOnline it is the cost of scale. Creality buying thousands of the same parts gets a cheaper price. I used to be a custom Metal fabricator. Custom / diy almost universally costs more when you are talking about things that go beyond just “wood” or supplies & time.
MCU = Micro Controller Unit, not Motor Control Unit, as in the little CPU on the board, that's the MCU.... i.e Arduino is an MCU, ESP32 is an MCU...etc...
It consumes less power than an Klipperized Ender 3, prints faster, generally at a higher quality, is enclosed for higher temps, & a surprising amount of prints fit within its build volume. I’ve sold products that more than paid for the machine printed on the machine. It can be a very useful rapid prototype or production machine.
Perhaps this is my historian training showing, but I feel like this kit really gives us insight into how the various electronics come from the manufacturer. With a kit like this there's no way Siboor is spending a lot of money on labour, so things like the half-terminated motors are surely just in the state that they bought them? (Also, noting that the lack of basic tools makes the price increase even steeper is good (for some users - I have those tools so their inclusion wouldn't raise the kit's value for me), but calling out the price increase without putting it in the context of over a year of ridiculously high global inflation is maybe a bit unfair?) Though I will say I think the accelerometer pins and wires being as they are is actually a good thing for someone looking to learn to build printers. Soldering through-hole pins is about the easiest kind of soldering there is, and if someone wants to get into building 3d printers, they'll need to learn to solder at some point. Plus, if gives you the choice of attaching the pins or of eliminating one connexion and just soldering the pigtail directly to the PCB. Last thought: up until now I've parsed your accent as "Canadian, probably Vancouver, who says "zed" wrong" but the way you say "enclosed" is very, very American. I just find that funny!
Insane high price for such shitty 3d printed parts and the amount of DIY needed. What's the pro's of one of these over a build and go printer like a Ender 5?
An Ender 5 will never achieve the acceleration of print speeds possible with this machine. Even the Ender 5 S1 I was struggling to produce a sub 25 minute Benchy that looked even close to as good as the sub 20 minute Benchy I did on this machine with little tuning. This machine is for folks who enjoy tinkering and building, and want a fast little machine. I built my first V0.1 to have a “rapid prototype” machine. Its build volume is small but it can fill that volume rapidly. It absolutely isn’t for everyone, but that’s not the goal.
@@totalkiller4 hey said he's done with learning from the chinese printers. I know the bambu printers have cool features. But the vorons and the prusas are opensource and have replacement parts available from different sellers.
How often do you print single objects larger than this build volume? I print a lot and I’d say a solid 50% of the stuff I print fits in this build volume. The machine is meant to be fun, and great for rapid prototyping. It takes up little space and can just run off prints quickly while consuming little energy. It isn’t for everyone, but there is a reason to the madness.
These things are way too expensive for what they are. You can get better bang for buck with pre manufactured FDM's. If you have too much money and like to be tortured then by all means go ahead and get one. Just buy a Creality K1, which is IMO 10 times better than anything you could build yourself, cheaper and happy days.
It is 30% cheaper than other kits. The only cheaper kits I’ve found don’t include all parts (Fysetc has printed parts but no Raspberry Pi to run it.) It is the single cheapest kit I can find that will allow someone to build a machine without having to buy other things. No other kit is a Voron in a box.
Have you checked prices on Voron V0.2 kits? With printed parts & a board that can actually run this machine included this is the cheapest one on the market. You can find cheaper but they don’t come with Raspberry Pi, or printed parts for the most part.
Great video- and thanks for the shout out! I had very similar experiences with many of the issues you ran into. Overall I think it's a good budget kit option if folks go into it knowing the potential tradeoffs, and I think you did a nice job covering them. The parts seem to be a bigger issue for your kit- I only ran into two defective parts, and those were fairly easy reprints. I really do think Siboor should take a hard look at quality control of them.
Great video as always. I am still eyeing that kit so thanks for showing the pros and cons.
Alan, I really appreciate this video as I’m still considering this kit. It was rather serendipitous that I mentioned this kit on your 0.1 review and less than a day later you follow up with your review. There’s really no excuse for the state of your printed parts. From the research I’ve done their documentation is lacking badly. I’ve heard they’re decent with customer service and sending out replacement parts, but they really do need to work on their QC. If I have to deal with a few dodgy parts I can certainly print them on a different machine but ideally everything should be good to go including all the hardware and linear rails. Thanks again and keep up the great work, cheers!
Really like your approach and way of explaining stuff well done.
Just finished building my first printer (Trident 250). You're the first builder I've seen to use 123 blocks when squaring up the frame in a video. It removes much of the struggle IMO. Round spacer block kit was my other machine shop pull. Loved how tidy your wiring came out.
Big shoutout to the VORON Discord community for helping me get mine going! They were right there to help.
Another great video! Thanks for making these.
Watching this has me nervous about the printed parts. I haven’t seen any issues with the black parts yet but I still have a ways to go. Wondering if that particular batch of printed black parts had an issue or if it’s going to be the case for many others as well. Definitely seems like printed part qc needs to be better regardless.
thats crazy.... i did not have any of that nonsense on mine. I will get with siboor team and tell them to double down on the QA. Honestly the splitting parts is not acceptable. Modbot if you need reprints let me know. Ill get them for you quickly.
Yea, it was suprising. You know how it can be, temperamental days with ABS and all, but there were obvious issues that should have been seen in packaging.
I also had poor layer adhesion on my V0.1, although not as bad as this kit by the looks of it. My first prints were replacement high stress parts like the extruder mounts for when they failed (the extruder rail mount loves to split and was hard to diagnose).
At least my batch is okay but mine came with revised liner rails (no rust) so perhaps little different from yours. So far no crack.
I did have some issues with poor layer adhesion. However, nothing that was a important part. I did have to reprint a couple of pieces, but they were all small. On the plus side, the printed parts looked amazing. I think a few more degrees (5-10) higher print temperature and they would have been perfect.
Alan, great video and I wish I can build a voron as fast as you can! Looking forward to future videos, like what to do with all those printers we have build and how to advance 3D printer technology as hobbyist!! (Basically finding more excuses so we can buy/build more printers!)
Glad I found this, they contacted me about purchasing - for review - their 2.4 kit. Since I am not a big channel, not much of any discounts. But I've heard from the various creators how problematic these kits are. I have an LDO kit at work and that's been amazing. Siboor offered the 0.2 kit for not much money and I think I will politely decline. Yes, even small channels can smell bad quality =)
Agree with you, even if I could re-print the parts on it the hassle of dismantling everything again to replace them makes it a no go for me. BTW love the colour scheme of your OG black/green 0.1, guessing you swapped filament mid print? Looks awesome👍
Yea the hex panel on my 0.1 was a color swap print. Thank you. I’ll probably do a quick video as I’m gonna do some updates to that soon. 👍🏻
As someone that's never printed but have always been curious I've just never had the free time after a life changing car accident I'm home bound and have been watching your reviews thinking about buying one. I absolutely love the fact you nit pick the hell out these machines. Thanks for your honest review and with that off to watch another.
I just picked up this kit a few weeks ago and to their credit, they've fixed the problems you've pointed out. Mind you, I ordered the kit without the ABS parts since I have a Bambu P1S to print them but otherwise, things have gone quite smoothly so far.
I like your channel a lot! Hope you get the growth you deserve.
Thank you very much, I appreciate that.
Love your videos❤
Interesting video. Thanks for uploading.
Fun a new Voron video from you
I had exactly the same issues with parts I printed with a bad patch from Esun filament .. I didn't notice it until I made some changes to the x carriage , I notice a layer adhesion crack .
I wonder do they pre-terminal all the cables to the required length for you? Thanks for this full of useful information review.
What is the size of the printer? What is the difference between the CHC hot end and the Dragon hot end?
SIBOOR offers a version of the kit without any ABS printed parts (also no main board). You could get that, and use the print it forward program to get the printed parts, or print them yourself. If I were to get this kit, I'd probably print the parts in PETG (since I CAN), and go for the BTT pico board (that was actually designed for this board) along with a RPi Zero (2) W. I'd have to install the klipper firmware myself, but there are many good tutorials on the web showing how to do that.
I've heard that PETG will work well with a Voron, especially if you don't intend to print in ABS. I mostly use PLA and PETG myself, both of these materials are much easier to print that ABS. PETG is reasonably strong, and almost as heat resistant as ABS.
BTW SIBOOR also offers CNC'ed metal parts.
I smile every time I see one of your videos because you look so much like a rougher, grittier version of Matt Parker. For those of you who hadn't seen it before, I'm sorry. It can't be unseen. :)
I swear i watched the whole video just for the music from @5:00 lol. Do you know if Siboor is donating anything to the Voron project to further it or just selling kits and raking in the $$ ?
love you bro
Thumbnail with smile is best choice.
Maybe.. but going to take me awhile to figure out sensorless homing on my ratrig so plenty of time for them to get things in order
mine came with the black parts in good condition. one of the xy motors doesn't have the shaft aligned.. it didn't come with the connection diagram, so I connected the display wrongly and it doesn't work either. the rest is ok.
I have a question unrelated to the Voron. What is the plastic ring you have around your cardboard spool? And also great video.
Thank you. It’s a “Spool Ring” for running the cardboard spools in the Bambu Lab AMS. The rollers in it don’t grip cardboard very well for some reason.
Is there a more budget 0.2 for someone that can print the parts and doesn't mind flashing Klipper?
The hotend shroud reminds me of Blanket from The Brave Little Toaster.
Print bed is adorable 😂
I am interested in knowing which brands of stepper motors and belts are used. Additionally, do you happen to know which extruder kit is also utilized? Changing the hotend poses no problem, and I can print the necessary parts in advance with my Voron 2.4. I am eagerly looking forward to building a Voron 0.2, assuming the only issues are related to the printed parts and hotend.
I just got a kit from Siboor last week. Extruder motor is a moons and the other 3 are siboor branded. I opted for the cnc all metal parts and so far so good. Gates belt also
Amazing! Can you please do a review in the Elegoon neptune 3 max? Thanks!
That’s my very next review! 👌🏻👍🏻
I kind of wonder if those black parts are printed in eSun ABS+ or something else analogous to it. Especially with batches in the last year or so, that stuff has notoriously poor layer adhesion, and that nice matte sheen is characteristic of ABS+
I know this comment is old but from what I've seen Siboor were using eSun ABS+ but have since changed due to the known poor layer adhesion with that filament. Their updated "Aug2023" kits seem to use a better brand of filament that has less issues.
Those printed parts are exactly what I got out of esun abs+. Matte black color but the layer adhesion is horrid.
I have a V6 Style hot end with the same ceramic heater; 2 of them actually. one of them is doing fine and does heat up quick which is nice. but the other one has been very unreliable. unbelievable stringing, temp swings and randomly losing the thermistor signal. turns out the ceramic was cracked. My conclusion is to stay away from the ceramic and stick with all metal construction. sure doesn't heat up as fast, but really, you always have to wait a while to the bed to heat up anyway.
I would LOVE to have a Voron, but there's just too much fiddly crap for costing WAY too much money. I realize that this is all cutting edge stuff, but even looking at this with the "My First Voron" mindset, I agree that the value and quality control isn't there. The problem is that for the LDO kits you mentioned the price point is not in my ballpark. So I'll just sit here drooling while I print garbage on my Ender 3 like the poor pleb that I am.
Do you have a link to that Polymaker ASA filament in orangey-red seen in the video @ 8:49? I can't see anything like it on their website. Thank you!
It’s just red. My camera has a love hate with red it reproduces it so vibrant and bright that I have to desaturate it for videos so it doesn’t overpower other things. As such my videos never 100% reflect red the right way.
Those cable management squares look great, do you have the file for them posted somewhere?
Been meaning to release that design for a while, here it is: than.gs/m/845243
As someone who already has a printer, comfortable working on 3D printers and would like to try to step up to a voron. I would say this is a good kit to start with... $780 AUD delivered is under half of what an LDO kit is after delivery and parts ... I think I'll be going it a go, using your link of course.. 😉
Much appreciated and best of luck with it. They already seem to be taking some action on critiques from myself and some others. I hope it works out well for you.
Good luck! I hope you enjoy putting it together as much as I did. It did take me a bit longer to put together, but it was mostly the directions from Voron could be better.
So.... Update: Printer was short on bearings and washers and one of the linear rails has some real bad jerkie movement(almost feels like the little ball bearings have flat spots) and that's without being in the printer... yes I lubed... after picking some spares I have finished assembling the printer only to discover I was getting a thermistor error, fixed that but the extruder motor lasted about 100mm before failing... now it just "shakes" like something is broken inside stopping it moving (although I can move by hand)
@@Xalies Those are some rough things, sorry to hear that. Short on bearings is kind of ridiculous. Glad you worked that out. I'd recommend a good LDO motor to replace the extruder one. I haven't had problems with the SIBOOR provided motors but I run LDO ones on all my long term builds.
Buy a Creality K1 mate. Cheaper and much better and ready to go out of the box.
My Siboor V 0.2 stepper motors are included with sockets, not like yours.
There is an additional issue about Gemini V3 Wrong temperature indicating issue (Seems like that's only for specific batch of board). can you please mention this on video?
I chose not to mention the board temp issue because it didn’t cause any usability issues on my unit. Also the board isn’t SIBOORs fault, it is Mellow’s, so I wasn’t going to knock them for that issue. More info on the Discord seems to indicate it may just be a reporting error reading the wrong temp.
@MandicReally I meant info for potential buyers - not about the right or wrong.
As I heard, the wrong indicated temperature is not actual value. It is caused by false voltage reading and not gona cause temperature related problem like throttling.
I think if I were building one of these I would rather pay a little more for a better quality kit, as you say this is aimed at a novice builder and there are too many issues that would cause problems for the novice builder
First! ❤
DAMN IT
Can you do a MagicPhoenix review?
Since it’s hardened steel nozzle maybe you can bump up temperature to get enough flow.
I could but then I’m concerned the 0.2 part cooling won’t keep up. I find 235-240 to be an ideal temp for Polymaker ASA. Pushing it hotter just to flow better usually leads to quality degradation.
@@MandicReally interesting… since I always do in that way…
So does the V0.2 printerr better then V0.1? Or why not upgrade your V0.1 to a V0.2?
Because he got it for free for making a review
How much
I'm not familiar with this style printer but can someone explain the thought behind it? More or less why 450ish bucks is budget friendly when there's pre-assembled printers with better specs for less money. Is it the DIY aspect of it? But if that's the case most companies sell stuff for less if you have to do it yourself and like I mentioned this is more than a handful of pre-assembled printers. Maybe I'm missing something huge and please let me know!
“Better specs” is highly subjective. This is an enclosed printer capable of printing higher temp materials. It used a compact and strong core-xy system that can print very fast (if flowrate permits). It has a small build volume but how often do most folks print things that don’t fit in a 120 cubed build volume? For a desktop rapid prototyping machine it is extremely useful. Get small parts done very quickly so you can iterate on them fast.
Sure you can find machines that fit some or all of these parameters, but few that hit all of them. Those that due are averaging a higher price.
It’s also meant to be a DIY machine. No proprietary parts you won’t be able to replace a year from now when the company moves on to a new design. It’s upgradable and simply fun to build.
The machine isn’t for everyone, but it is a great machine for those who need or want it’s capabilities (me).
@@MandicReally "Better specs" is not subjective, it's quantifiable. The answer to your second question is a lot, hence the reason that printers with builds up to 400+ exist. Third, depends on what you're prototyping but I doubt it's really that fast when you have to print parts one by one and you still have to wait for the other parts to print before you can see if it works. Fourth, there is only one printer company (that I know of) currently that uses proprietary parts which is Bambu Labs, everyone else uses off the self stuff, most of it is completely open-source stuff. I'm not hating on the little thing and there's a use for it somewhere, just not at the huge probably 200% markup that these kit companies are trying to push. It's $50 worth of parts max. What's it going to take for the printer community to start looking at printers in a price-to-performance ratio like computers? We don't pay more for the experience or frustration of building our computers, we pay more to have them built for us.
@@crysiscontained4421 This kit is WAY more than $50 of parts...
Better specs? This little printer is VERY fast and has linear rails on all three axes. It is fully enclosed and can print any high-temperature filament. My use case for it is printing things like gears in glass-filled nylon. Today I spent some time making parts and putting them in my automated test jig and running them until failure, then redesigning. I want a small and fast printer to speed up this interactive design process.
@crysiscontained4421 You canself-sourcee the parts for $50??? I doubt it. The Raspberry Pi3 alone costs $28. The cheapest stepper motoers you can buy are $10 each and you need three for them. So already you are are $58. Then you need some 1515 extrusions and quite a lot more. There are sop,mething like 12 laser-cut acrillic pannels and have you priced quality linear rails?
I'm looking for a good value voron v0.2 kit. And I'm wondering how this siboor kit would compare to the formbot kit. 247printig made a good comparison between the formbot v0.1 and ldo v0.1 kit. And after seeing that I'm leaning towards the formbot v0.2 kit. In his comparison the ldo had some issues and the formbot didnt. I'd prefere the formbot over the siboor because it includes a kirigami bed mount and I can choose the dragon hotend. Its no issue to me that it doesnt include the printed parts as I already have a printer. Does anybody advise against the formbot kit?
@@rahimdamji9602 Thanks for your offer. I'll think about it👍🏻
The extrusions on the formbot kit are HORRIBLE. Mine had goop on some, all the blind joint taped threads want to pull out and require a good amount of loctite to stay together. The kit was missing a lot of things and am still working to get shit fixed or replaced 3 months in. The rails I got were smooth but had a very small amount of preload and the x axis rail needed to be replaced. It wobbled in 2 axes and resonance and print quality suffered drastically. The PSU it came with had a lot of coil whine which was pretty annoying as well. That’s been my experience and I have a V0.1 kit. They told me the 0.2 kit has a Z1 preload rail and it is better but still not great.
@@nicholasclark4329 Weird. The Formbot kit (0.1) I got was really well done.
@@toddzino58 might’ve just been unlucky but I’ve spent in total about $700 US (including 400 for the kit) trying to get this shitty kit to work. Ended up ordering new frame rails bed mount (kirigami deflects too much to be usable) needed a new hardware kit because the screw heads were sloppy in my HSS drivers that I didn’t want to ruin anything. New mcu (got a doa). Just a bunch of irritating shit. I’m on the second round of replacements because stuff just breaks or doesn’t work or came missing. Highly regret and wish I would’ve self sourced
Anyone know the brand name for the mint asa?
It is ABS not ASA and it is Hatchbox brand: amzn.to/3PnOpcI (affiliate link)
@@MandicReally ty!
The black parts are possibly from esun abs+? My first and only roll is absolute garbage
I seem to remember folks saying they use ESun with the last kit. I found Hatchbox color matched one of the parts. I’ve never used ESun ABS to say. I stick to Polymaker as it treats me really well and has a wide product range.
@@MandicReally with esun abs+ it seems the variety is huge. Some like it and have no issues. Some others tell stories like mine. Maybe bad batches here and there - so bad quality control?! I do not know. I have tried other materials from them, Petg and pla+. Those were ok
any reason to get this 0.2 over their (still available) 0.1 kit?
Honestly, a really good question. I greatly prefer the top hat of the V0.2 vs the 0.1 (not aesthetically but functionally). The 0.1 doesn’t come with a screen or good quality bed. The only other thing is the 0.2 “Mini-StealthBurner” is nicer than the Mini-Afterburner in every way. A lot? No.
So… really hard to say. I’d not recommend the 0.1 kit without some upgrades (see that review) but you can likely get it and those upgrades for less than this one.
man for $500 I would expect some MUCH better quality control. that's $200 more than an A1 Mini that is rock solid right out of the box with no assembly and only $100 cheaper than a Bambu P1P.
Voron is over engineered and isn't mass produced like printers you said so costs are fixed
Did you have to pay costoms
11.5-12.5 with CHT style nozzle is a bit dissapointing, even E3D Revo can be pushed to 14 also with bad quality of printed parts, the first few prints should be reserved for replacing those parts
It’s hard to say what’s what. I could have push higher temp and probably flowed more but I tested at temps I actually print at. It almost seemed to push 14mm3/s, but in a real actually print it was skipping the extruder at that level. So 12.5 is “safe” level of flow.
The kit is currently sitting at $329.99 shipping free from USA. Wow!
The listing is a bit misleading, that’s the V0.1 kit I previously reviewed. You have to select the second option for the 0.2 which is $469.
You have to re-wire and terminate cabling and it doesn't have enough hardware to complete the build? That's awful... The questionable printed parts made me remember an anet et4 I bought with the printed parts looked like dog crap and never got the printer working.
the 0.1 enclosure cap looks so much better than the 0.2
Yea. I like that the 0.2 is hinged, and that it is much easier to assemble, but the 0.1 top hat does look a lot better.
You can mod that easily from what I have seen here and there
Linear rails look rusty @13:10 ??
Yea, Greg’s Maker Corner actually has rails that were worse than mine. They actually sent me brand new ones before I even started. I inspected the rails I had and missed that little bit of corrosion. (The Z rails are the old ones, I mixed up and didn’t replace.) So SIBOOR did dispatch new rails. I’d assume they’d do that for anyone who had an issue but I can’t know that for sure.
oh hey this one wasnt my fault :P
this feels like a no for me haha what a nightmare - for 500 feels like I could buy pre-made stuff and better... but what do I know
Great video and super informational. I just don’t get why the voron style printer’s build areas are so small and how that appeals to people? Cool it can make a 15 minute benchy, literally anything else you want to print will have to be 1000 pieces.
I would say a solid 25-50% of things I print fit within this build volume. It used to be more before I started printing silly big things a lot. For a desktop rapid prototype machine (why I built my 0.1) it’s excellent. There are also 250, 300, & 350mm V2.4 & Trident machines. Look out for a video about a 350mm V2.4 I built with 3DPrintingNerd coming out this Saturday!
It really depends on what you print. Over 75% of the things I personally print will fit in this build volume. The portability of the design (once you add handles) also really appealed to me, if I want to print ASA I can easily carry it to the garage.
I wish I could afford this 3d printer 😢
"Budget" is sort of subjective here. That 0.2 looks to be like a 150x150 plate, which is kinda small for that price point. Granted it is going to come with everything you need, including the glass to encase it, which is nice. Still the build volume to price ratio is quite bad compared to what you can find out there.
You should probably check out my latest video on that very topic...
No, the small build volume is a selling point. The printer is so small it does not take up much space. The V0.2 with it's 150mm build plate can print every part needed to build a V2.4. So it is a quite good printer for my robotics projects. I can build a medium-sized quadruped robot and none of the 3D printed parts are over 150mm. The V0.2 works well for making functional prototypes for all kinds of machines. That said, it would have to be your second printer.
@@chrisalbertson5838 I was talking about the price point vs build volume. The Voron Printers are amazingly good printers, I now have a 2.4 myself. The smaller build volume options for Voron printers are very expensive when compared to other printers of the same size, or even the same kinematics. The only exception being the 2.4 350 standing alone at its build volume and the price point (LDO kit is best kit). There is bigger, the Neptune 4 Max is a whopping 400 build plate but is a bed slinger to boot, and is about half the price of a 2.4.
I built my 2.4 using a pair of Neptune 2S's that are a few years old now, with several upgrades I have done to them over the years (as is with any Ender 3 clone). I used ASA for my parts, not ABS, for better strength and, most importantly, UV resistance.
Uhh... preinstalled klipper? This is a computer with a linux operating system that you have no control over how it is installed. It could open a backdoor to your network. I would strongly recommend sandboxing it, taking out the configuration files and reinstalling it.
You or I might want to use a different Linux install. But the average kit-builder has zero experience with Linux and is not going to be editing a config file over ssh
MCU = Microcontroller unit, not motor control.
For the price this is probably a banger
Now 0.1 kit comes without crimper
With the P1P only a little bit more and a Creality K1 coming out I'm not sure what the point of these are.
Fully open source, off the shelf parts easily available, & customizable. Some folks like to know a machine in and out, every single screw of it. Some like to buy an appliance. No right or wrong, just different cases.
@@MandicReally Yes very true I just don't like that it seems to cost more to go the DYI route.
@@VampireOnline it is the cost of scale. Creality buying thousands of the same parts gets a cheaper price. I used to be a custom
Metal fabricator. Custom / diy almost universally costs more when you are talking about things that go beyond just “wood” or supplies & time.
MCU = Micro Controller Unit, not Motor Control Unit, as in the little CPU on the board, that's the MCU.... i.e Arduino is an MCU, ESP32 is an MCU...etc...
What's the point of a voting that size at that price, when creality has enders dirt cheap, larger, and clipper boards
It consumes less power than an Klipperized Ender 3, prints faster, generally at a higher quality, is enclosed for higher temps, & a surprising amount of prints fit within its build volume.
I’ve sold products that more than paid for the machine printed on the machine. It can be a very useful rapid prototype or production machine.
3rd!!!
how could they ship warped and delaminated parts...that is just unacceptable
Perhaps this is my historian training showing, but I feel like this kit really gives us insight into how the various electronics come from the manufacturer. With a kit like this there's no way Siboor is spending a lot of money on labour, so things like the half-terminated motors are surely just in the state that they bought them? (Also, noting that the lack of basic tools makes the price increase even steeper is good (for some users - I have those tools so their inclusion wouldn't raise the kit's value for me), but calling out the price increase without putting it in the context of over a year of ridiculously high global inflation is maybe a bit unfair?)
Though I will say I think the accelerometer pins and wires being as they are is actually a good thing for someone looking to learn to build printers. Soldering through-hole pins is about the easiest kind of soldering there is, and if someone wants to get into building 3d printers, they'll need to learn to solder at some point. Plus, if gives you the choice of attaching the pins or of eliminating one connexion and just soldering the pigtail directly to the PCB.
Last thought: up until now I've parsed your accent as "Canadian, probably Vancouver, who says "zed" wrong" but the way you say "enclosed" is very, very American. I just find that funny!
That's NOT what MCU stands for and it doesn't control the motors. It's a MicroController Unit.
Insane high price for such shitty 3d printed parts and the amount of DIY needed. What's the pro's of one of these over a build and go printer like a Ender 5?
An Ender 5 will never achieve the acceleration of print speeds possible with this machine. Even the Ender 5 S1 I was struggling to produce a sub 25 minute Benchy that looked even close to as good as the sub 20 minute Benchy I did on this machine with little tuning.
This machine is for folks who enjoy tinkering and building, and want a fast little machine. I built my first V0.1 to have a “rapid prototype” machine. Its build volume is small but it can fill that volume rapidly.
It absolutely isn’t for everyone, but that’s not the goal.
@@MandicReally I get it. But price wise for the size of the machine the lack of quality is unnacceptable imo.
I really would like to build a voron but they are quite expensive
maybe not
Big nope for me, I'm a bit done with learning a lot from my Chinese printers. Now it's time for Prusa and then a proper Voron. :)
Maybe go straight to that Voron
What's a proper Voron?
A proper voron which isnt a "chinese" printer will be quite hard
@@totalkiller4 hey said he's done with learning from the chinese printers. I know the bambu printers have cool features. But the vorons and the prusas are opensource and have replacement parts available from different sellers.
@@Dash199t Right? No one tell him where LDO is from.
The bed size is absurdly small and makes this a laughing stock at this price point to call it "cheap"!
How often do you print single objects larger than this build volume? I print a lot and I’d say a solid 50% of the stuff I print fits in this build volume. The machine is meant to be fun, and great for rapid prototyping. It takes up little space and can just run off prints quickly while consuming little energy.
It isn’t for everyone, but there is a reason to the madness.
These things are way too expensive for what they are. You can get better bang for buck with pre manufactured FDM's. If you have too much money and like to be tortured then by all means go ahead and get one. Just buy a Creality K1, which is IMO 10 times better than anything you could build yourself, cheaper and happy days.
Oh hell no. What a shame
Clickbait. It isn't that cheap.
It is 30% cheaper than other kits. The only cheaper kits I’ve found don’t include all parts (Fysetc has printed parts but no Raspberry Pi to run it.) It is the single cheapest kit I can find that will allow someone to build a machine without having to buy other things. No other kit is a Voron in a box.
why are you bald ?
Ask my genes.
@@MandicReally i dont trust men with hair so i think its a good thing
Annoying ass music in the background
I'm sorry but $470 is not "amazingly cheap"
Have you checked prices on Voron V0.2 kits? With printed parts & a board that can actually run this machine included this is the cheapest one on the market. You can find cheaper but they don’t come with Raspberry Pi, or printed parts for the most part.