I Built The Ultimate Open Source CoreXY 3D Printer - Voron 2.4
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video I will show you my journey of building and reviewing the ultimate open source 3d printer - the Voron 2.4 350mm. Follow along as we take a more cinematic look at this printer and what its like to build one for yourself using a formbot kit.
Chapters
00:00 - Intro
03:16 - Mechanical Build
05:11 - R1 or R2?
07:45 - Build Continues
13:22 - Electronics Wiring
16:13 - First Switch On
17:00 - Software Configuration
19:30 - First Problems
23:15 - Finishing The Build
25:26 - What's Next?
#Voron #corexy #3dprinter #build
We got a serial number! Say hello to V2.4357
now upgrades.....
- Klicky probe (Unklicky / BFP; replacing the bed level and the z-endstop) enabling auto-z-level...
- purge bucket....
- umbilical cord (with CAN BUS maybe)....
- DIY filament sensor (run out as well as being stuck)
- carbon fiber x-extrution and 1x MGN-12 (replacing the two MGN-9) and titanium screws >> less weight = more speed
- better extruder with big gears (take your pick e.g. Bondtech LGX series, ideal the Lite one, reducing weight)
- better nozzle and heating (Bondtech CHT and Mellows crazy Volcano heating block or others..)
@@kampfzwergxp just ordered a kit with the lgx - not the lite one - and the mosquito magnum - not magnum + I've read no support for the mosquito stuff? is the Bondtech heavy okay for now you think?
@@justinwalker8364 I DM / emailed you....
Love the colors. Reminds my of the first incarnation of v2.132(2.1)
Man I feel so sorry for ultimaker owners. They've literally bought 500 bucks (if that!) worth of 3d printer for 5000-10000 bucks. Poor people. I bought a Qidi X-Maker for 250 bucks to print the ABS parts for my Vorons, I showed a Design Tech teacher what I'd been doing and he literally fell off his chair at the quality of the prints and he couldnt get over the angles I could print with no supports. I then showed him a video of it printing and he fell off his chair again at how fast it was (lol 50mm/s). I havent shown him the voron as I don't want him to hurt himself falling off his chair again. Why do ultimaker have such a strong reputation amongst people especially in education sector (who maybe have no real idea bout 3d printer hardware)?
I think you have answered your own question there mate. These people have no clue about 3d printing and want a turn key solution - you press print and the thing just prints, no tuning and figuring out material profiles, that is one thing Ultimaker does very well. I think there was some innovation there many years ago when they were newer but I outgrew mine and that led me to the Voron. Poor DT teacher, sounds like he needs some arms on that chair 😁
Also cura - I think as long as ultimaker keep that free, it’ll keep the open source people happy
I am learning about 3D printers recently, could you pls teach me?
@@salesgoofoo6832 I just looked at your videos and it looks like you are already doing great!!
Your teacher needs a better chair
I don't have the time, patience to build one personally as I just got a Bambu Lab X1C, but love the 3d printing community to have something like this available.
Nice work bud! I really enjoyed this video. It's very tempting to get the kit and have a go.
Love the angle you push those inserts. 🙂
The man, the myth, the legend! Great to see another vid from ya bro
its been a while, im so glad I finally got this out!
Lovely editing between the talking and assembly cuts. Great content too.
Thanks man!
Excellent video Lee. Just the project I was looking for.
Get it going mate! You won’t regret it
I just found your channel recently while diving into electric skateboards.
I was already looking for CNC machines and was planning to build a VORON 2.4.
So I am excited to see how much our interests overlap.
Great job on the build.
Hey man, yeah it sounds like a pretty strong overlap! Thanks man, was really great fun building this thing
thank you for your video, you made me re-live my Voron 2.4 build! I then went for a 0.1
great vid as always, looked at voron before to replace my 4+ Year old Cr Ender 3 Original. This shows the process very well
Hey Lee! Where have I been for last 6 months to miss this?? What an epic walkthrough of your project mate... makes me want to procrastinate some more and build one instead of printing like a pooper with my old Ender 3 haha!
Great content as always mate - hope you're keeping well x
really well rounded video, love it.
Thanks man, I’m really glad you enjoyed it
About to tackle the electrics on my build , good vid thanks
So compelling ! A fascinating video . As usual I had no idea what was going on but your dedication and perseverance is infectious Lee . Really enjoyed this 👊
yoooo, thanks Jamie! glad you enjoyed it mate!
What a beast of a machine, love it!
yeah a proper workhorse mate, its a fantastic machine
Always a good day when a new video from you lands. I really enjoyed this; you have a great presentational style. I'd happily watch a video of you reading the phonebook, although I suspect you wouldn't be able to resist taking it apart and modding it along the way!
What an endorsement! Thank you!
There's something so alluring and Zen about building my own printer. I will be doing a 0.1 or 2.4 soon, not sure which route I will be going but I love building things.
there's nothing wrong with it per se, but I would strongly recommend upgrading to stealthburner. There are a large number of improvements. if you ever plan to print flexible filaments, you may also want to upgrade to clockwork2 (which will require a new extruder motor), for stealthburner you just need a 5015 blower, a few additional screws that weren't in the previous bom, and optionally some neopixel rgbw leds. The hartk toolhead board is also strongly recommended but not specifically nessasary (that's just a quality of life improvement).
I see you've used your mgn9 rails that were intended for X as backers for Y - that's very smart! (my LDO 350 kit came with r2 parts so I ordered titanium backers), I also see you've got a scrubbrush and purgebucket, which is great (the voron z and sexbolt touch on the nozzle so you don't want bits of filament mucking up your z offset), and I see you've printed a nevermore which is intended as a carbon VOC filter but even if you never fill it with carbon helps dramatically improve circulation under the bed to keep chamber temps consistent). Personally I just finished the motion system and am currently building my toolhead. I'll be doing electronics in a week or two and i'm hoping to have the build completed and serialed by the new year :D
had fun watching this :)
i know this is late but the version of klicky that is installed in this video is flexing before triggering and this will cause massive deviations in the accuracy of the bed levered mounts are rarely good on magnetically fixed tools
Mine's all built and running. Watched this video a few times to keep me motivated, probably took me two weeks. Went straight to canbus, added touchscreen and other changes.
Commanding an Ultimaker to replace itself with a Voron... Brilliant!
Great video. I've been thinking about a building a Voron recently and been watching plenty of videos on the 2.4. Can't affordto get an kit version at the moment, so am looking at getting parts bit by bit. Good to know that there is a supplier here in the UK that supplies Voron parts. Thanks for that. Got yourself a new subscriber. Looking forwardt to next video
Hey Andy, yeah Printy Please seem to be a stand up company. I’d really recommend buying sub kits instead of self sourcing everything. You can buy a motor kit, the extrusion kit etc bit by bit. Thanks for the sub matey, plenty of voron content coming at ya
Hey man! Interesting video! Considering I saw this in your studio not long ago.
I didn’t realise how intense the battle was.
I knew it was time consuming after the instruction manual you sent me and tbh bravo. I didn’t get past page 1 😂
Interested to see what comes from this printer in the foreseeable bro! 🤙🏽👌🏽
Yeah you saw it in bits still in its unfinished state man, now though it’s blazing away in its rightful place - the corner!
Nice vid
Ps, your drag chains loop should end straight and parallel to x extrusion and not rounded like that, you might want to rotate it 180⁰ to switch the chain ends.
Thank you for the shout! I’m going to get that sorted
nice video
Nice video
Nice video. What is the bed leveling gadget you re using?
Great video, I'm thinking about building a voron aswell. Do you have a link for the engineers square you were using near the beginning of the video..
I have S5 at work and my dirty sidewinder x1 distroys it with certain filaments. But im leaning now to this thank you
Nice; I feel like making a Voron also, a small and a large. Do you find easy finding printing work? any suggestions;
You should really start the process if moving to the Stealthburner. It is better in every single way than the afterburner. The Rapido is also a better hoten than the dragon with more flow, less stringing, and a much more visible nozzle.
It’s on my radar mate. PLA hasn’t come out particularly well (although I never print it anyways) I have some bits ready to do a stealthburner upgrade including the PCB tool heads and neopixels etc but I want to get a bit of printing under my belt
@@LeeWright I hear you, but you really aren't learning much about the machine by using the older parts. If you just want to print and not mess around with it more, by all keep your setup. Just know that the Stealthburner is a significant step up!
For the Ultimaker S5: All you said was about the software/firmware side, not the hardware. So if you are in DIY, couldn't you just change the board to something like the mks SkipR, BTT Manta or something like that? The kinematic is simply cartesian (crossing rods). Neither Klipper nor Marlin should be a big problem there. Wireing all the existing motors, sensors heaters etc. to another board, maybe even convert to direct drive with an LGX and a CAN-Bus (BTT EBB36 or EBB42) should not be impossible.
Of course for a printer in that price-range, all the frustration is justified - and the problems are a no-go. Still, as you already have the printer, it would be nice to see you upgrade it. So I would love a video about the problems you have with the S5 - and preferably how you might solve it by replacing the electroncs/free it...
I like the way you pushed in heat set at wonky angle then used straight edge also at wonky angle
Looool… 750 printing hours later and still nobody cares
To all of you starting out, buy a kingroon KP3S, and when you are further down the line, build what this man built. Don’t waste your time with anything else, all the other printers are just gimmicks.
What are you applying around the heating pad at 14:45? Heat resistant silicone?
you should go for the Stealthburner Toolhead - way way better cooling and lighter
those heated inserts went in really crooked 3:44
I would like to see that video where you show your frustrations on utilmaker printer, pls!
The kit + printed parts seems like a great price. Do u recommended this for a beginner?
hi, please make video about: your experience with ultimaker !
I'll never buy an ultimaker but you should definitely make the video or else there will never be change for others.
I may have missed it but what does a beautiful build like this cost? I'm brand new to 3D Printing but I'm nerdy enough to take on a project like this. Even though I'll have to learn as I go. I like that it can be prettied up by printing parts in a colour I like. 😊
Great printer and congratulations. I have one and it's full of mods. While watching it, I remember fondly how you describe the emotions I already had. It was nice. But I have one comment in which I made the same mistake - when you were arranging the radiators for the stepper, you placed it wrong, because there are fans on the side and they will not cool them properly - it's as if you were blowing on the Mohawk from the side. You understand?
This may be a little off the mark, but I really like the hex wrenches you have with the colored sleeves! Do you have a brand or anything?
Just a suggestion, but if you build things a lot, I highly suggest adding a set of hex jeweler screwdriver to your tools. Much nicer to start screws and no L shaped end to get in the way! The. Use the L wrenches to tighten things up!
I really like the Voron printer you built. Thinking of adding one to go with my Ender 3V2. But being a retired engineer, can’t decide whether to get a Voron or build something from scratch just to see how it works out.
Wow, your comment is really professional.
Id loke to see a comparison between this and a ratrig
Nice build bro, may I ask where did you source the Back and Bottom panels, I`m building a VzBot and don`t know the best place to buy those beautiful aluminum panels. Thanks in advanced.
Hi mate, they are just plastic actually and came in the format kit I ordered. I believe you can get those panels you speak about in several places. They are called Aluminium composite panels and I believe you can get these cut to your specifications in several places like sendcutsend etc. I am not sure what others think but I would be concerned that they would wick heat out of the enclosure though. Maybe Acrylic is a better choice?
Have you check its power consumption? I thought it would be nice mod to the printer to know how much energy it consumed per each printing session. Especially now when we have ridiculous energy prices and that 350mm printbed is massive. Thanks for you vid mate!
This might be possible in software. If you know the power consumption of the bed, hotend, and motors, the rest should be negligible just logging the amount of time each one is on should be enough to calculate power draw.
You should revive the Ultimaker, not that a diffficult job if you managed to put together a Voron, new motherboard, new firmware, a thourough check of all nuts and bolts, electric contacts, maybe new temp sensors for the bed, nozzle and chamber (they tend to loose accuracy in time) and use it as a backup, you can never know... when Voron might be busy with a long print and you need a to print something else on the flight. You might even use it to experiment with a tool changer system (there are a few free online projects you can access) and make it your direct drive mutitool slow printer for TPU and similar.
⚡ *Really enjoyed this video* ⚡
I'm a huge fan of community/open source projects and what then come of them.
Stunnin edit!! 🤙🏼🤙🏼
Can you Please do a collab video with Kami Juin!!! I would buy popcorn for that, and I don't even like popcorn 😂
Yeah I’m a huge fan of open source projects as well so this was right up my street
where can i d/l this project?
Very nice job! Great video as well. Now that it's tuned, start adjusting it for speed. With PLA and ABS, you should be able to get prints done much quicker.....
Hey man, thank you! I totally forgot to give you a shout out in this video. Thank you for all your videos, they were a great help to me. Yes I think tuning for speed is next although I swapped to a SF hot end during the build so I think I’ll quickly run out of capacity on that
@@LeeWright on your next print in ABS or PLA, just try 100mm/s and 150mm/s with your slicer. I think you will be surprised at how well it will print. If you have not done so, you may need to do some resonance adjustments in Klipper if you get any ringing.
Oh im already printing at 200mm/s and 4000 perimeter acceleration and 7500 internals. I have done some basic input shaping but I want to get an accelerometer and do it properly
@@LeeWright That is great news then! I'm glad you have the higher speeds going. The accelerometer helped me a lot. My vision was just not up to the manual tests! I wish you the best with your printer!
Im thinking about getting one of these kits as well, people say get an LDO kit because its better parts than the formbot ones etc but its like 600 more! for what? is what I want to know
it seems like a lot of your ultimaker troubles come from software/firmware, maybe you could get rid of the old electronics and replace them with an SKR motherboard or something. Would allow you to dial the speeds up a bit too
I have been serching for over an hour now for this 'clicky' bed leveling tool you manchenedand I could not find anything. What is it ?
Have the same kit and .... well.. it has been slooowww.. had lot of trouble printing the parts and kinda lost interest.. but now I am back on it.. maybe this weekend I get it running.. maybe.. I need it urgently for other project anyways... mine is also somekinda mix of r1 and r2 and I hope is all works out in the end.. following 2 set of instructions has been.. interesting..
Yeah I hear you on that bud, my advise is to follow the R2 one and if you get stuck refer to the R1 manual. The R2 manual is much better
@@LeeWright yeah I agree the R2 manual has way more info... I save printing the non essential parts for the Voron itself... next step for me is the wiring... got a half finished laser cutter waiting also 😆
@@LeeWright and please do make more videos of your mods on it.. I am totally happy to let you do them first ;)
Do you know what hotend parts are supplied with the formbot kit? I'm assuming it's the afterburner but I've seen some people being supplied with stealth burner injection moulded parts as a 'gift". I've ordered and realised I have no idea what to expect when it eventually arrives 😂
I had no hotend parts supplied, my friend just got a kit and it had injection moulded Afterburner parts
@@LeeWright thanks for the quick reply! I hadn't heard of printy parts before but I see they stock the clockwork 2 stepper and various afterburner parts. Just ordered a bunch of bits as well as a rapido hotend. Just need to print the various stealth burner parts and wait for the parcel to arrive! Cheers for a great video that answers a lot of the question I had!
I think while the Voron 2.4 is without any doubt one of the best CoreXY printers you can build, I wouldn't call it the "ultimate" CorXY. It realy depends, what you need. The Voron Trident is often underrated. While moving the heavy bed (on 350by350) in z seems contraintuitive, having the CoreXY gantry in a fixed position at the top, not moving in z, has some realy nice advantages. For example it makes it possible to add a tool changer... There are some reliable designs for DIY toolchangers for the Trident (or other 3d printers with z moving bed, like hypercube or maybe VEHO 600 etc.). Of course you could use a toolchanger on a Voron 2.4 theoreticly, but moving up the XY-gantry every time you want to change a tool does not seem the best way to do.
With CAN-bus becoming the state of the art way to connect the toolhead, toolchangers have become much more easy to build, as you can connect multiple printheads to one CAN-bus (of course you might need to upgrade the PSU to power them, so they can be preheated or keept at "standby"-temperature in their storage). I think it's the next big step in DIY 3d printing. After Bambu shaked the market last year with their AMS, every 3d printer is compared to it. Actually nobody can deny the Bambu printers are the best and most reliable affordable solution for multi material prints out of the box. And it solves the problems for removing support in an easy way (PETG/PLA-trick). The PrusaXL (wich is definitly the better approach) cost twice as much and delivery times are long. So the Voron Trident imho is the right way to build a Voron nowerdays. Even a 2-tool only changer would be a very big improvement, just for support on technical objects.
One not so well known fact: Announcing the Prusa XL, Prusa also announced their development team working on multi-nozzle-diameter support on Prusa Slicer. Wile "Comming soon" can be seen as trademark of Prusa, so it may take still some time, this would be the next game changer in my opinion. Printing smal details in 0.4mm or even less, but most of a part in 0.6 or bigger seems a very interesting way to actually reduce print time by a lot. So building a Voron Trident might be the more future proof solution.
Of course there are other solutions: If you build two identical Voron 2.4 you could mount them side by side, with the bed mounted on linear rails - moving between the printers. Would be a hell to calibrate it - but it would allow dual-material. Of course, for the second Voron you should have also a heated bed, to be mounted on demand. So both Vorons could work as one dual-material printer or as two seperate printer - depending if your prints need easy2remove support or not. (realy independent, not just mirror or duplex like on an IDEX). Just a thought...
I actually have a Voron 2.4-inspired Jennyprinter 650 as a kit. Have not assembled it yet (and may take some time still, as it is very big - outer dimensions are 95 by95by105 cm³) and I still search for the perfect spot to place it. Still, as I do not like the heated bed of the Jennyprinter (an openly exposed 230V heating foil - quite dangerous. I will never use it!) and also flex plates are only available up to 600by600 at the moment, so I can not use the aerea the printhead can move for the bed anyway, I decided to redesign the Jennyprinter to a mix of Trident and Voron 2.4 (I use all the parts of the Jennyprinter, as they are CNC milled, so 4 z-belts, but use them to move the bed instead of the xy-gantry). With the xy-gantry reaching more area than the printbed anyway, I could add a toolchanger and a nozzle wiper later on.
Actually, while multiple nozzle diameters are not supported by Prusa Slicer for now, of course you already can change the nozzle diameter layer by layer simply by slicing multiple times with different settings (I already did this on my mk3s+ with revo, manualy swapping the nozzle midprint) and combining the gcode manually. So for example if you want to print a front plate (with embedded text, manual or automated filament change) you could a 0.4 mm nozzle or lower (long printing time) for example for the first 3 layers on the nice powder coated spring steel. Beginning with the 4th layer you swap to a 0.8mm nozzle (or bigger), so the print gets finished a lot faster. Perfect detailed surface, rigid and fast structure below.
Most of it are just concepts and ideas at the moment. It make take years to finalize it for me. But most of the ideas are already in the making by others.
Of course, at he time you made your video, the 'WP-DAKSH' Voron Trident 3D Printed Tool Changer wasn't published yet. So Voron 2.4 seemed the ultimate solution at the time. Still, after the new developments it's still a very good printer, but in my opinion the "ultimate" title goes to the Voron Trident, seeing the development made in toolchanging. Even as WP-DAKSH doesn't use CAN-Bus (yet), so there is room for improvement, and also I would like to prefer the nice, precise but cheap CNC-milled parts of a Hermit Crab (without the PCBs, as the tools would be permernantly be connected by CAN, and you have to change the spring in the Crab to a less stiffer one and add a lever to do the release of the tool by a servo)
Nice video but every time the music kicks in the volume jumps A LOT.
Sorry about that
Which yellow filament did you use? I am trying to get an industrial feeling yellow for my build.
It was Ultimaker yellow ABS. Yeah that's what I was going for, like a Dewalt style
2:10 not all their printers, the switchwire is coreXZ. its otherwise identical to any other bed slinger, just no lead screws.
Did you use a kit?
would you suggest getting a creality first and then making the voron ?
and what do you need to buy with the voron kit to make it work
Next, build the ultimate crossxy printer :D
I’ll have to Google that 😂
@@LeeWright Annex Engineering K3 or K1 or K2 are the top ones rn imo
I’ll take a look, need to let the wallet cool off for a bit 😁
Wait for 0.2
Yet another project I’m adding to the list.
First an electric mountain board of which I’ll machine the parts
And now this.
My wallet isn’t happy. 😂
Haha, this channel will do that to you
@@LeeWright well you only live once and I get bored easily. Been to busy this last year to do any videos myself but currently working on one.
Good call replacing the fans. There's no way they are Sunon maglev, and they WILL fail after about a year.
Hi, you printed all the parts from PLA or ABS? Can you put the link for the 2.4 r2 kit?
ABS, you don’t want to print Voron parts in PLA.
Do the cable chains correct! They should be parallel like U and not like ? 😁😁😁😁
he cable chains are installed incorrectly, ill fix it soon
I really wanted to build this printer but I would enjoy building it rather then using it. So I'm about to convert my ender 5 to corexy with klipper.
Get rid of that probe either get a proper Omron one (you will have problems no time soon with that one) or get a clicky probe I say that from experience :)
LEE, CAN ONE PURCHASE A VORON 2.4 R2 KIT THAT HAS ALL NECESSARY COMPONENTS?
Yes, everything except the printed parts are included. You can purchase them separately or get someone on the Voron discord to print for you
How much
Yes expose the garbage so others don't get taken PLEASE Thank you.
Dammit Lee, I started digging into esk8s so that I wouldn’t build a 2.4….
😇😇😇😇😇
Why didn't you just cut the screws with a hacksaw...?
ratrig another one as diy printer 500 x500 build plate and 3 version of it plus mini
yeah the ratting looks pretty nice!
Never seen such a dirty S5. No wonder it doesn't work well. A printer is like any machine you have to maintain it for it to perform well.
I would find it excellent if you would make the music a little louder and your voice a little softer! That would be great, so that my ears fly out even more and I understand even less what you're saying! *irony off
No, seriously, please inform yourself about "normalising" audio! Thanks! But cool project!
I understand normalising audio, this video was normalised and the music is 24dB down on my voice when im speaking. Im sorry it didn't meet your standards!
@@LeeWright The Problem is, that the Music is Extreme Loud in comparison to your Voice ;)
Its kinda sad to see that my artillery Hornet prints better than those ultimakers