Honestly, you are doing great. I would caution you to not grow beyond your means. You seem like the kind of person who might tend to think that you need the latest and greatest equipment or sound quality or a pristine background etc. But really we just want to see interesting projects. Not necessarily big, expensive, or time consuming projects. One suggestion for the next voron video would be to discuss the costs that would be associated with a project like yours with all your upgrades and everything.
Wundervolles Video! Es ist zwar schon etwas her aber den 150er Rahmen verkauft CR3D nach wie vor. Hast du die angepassten STL's zufällig noch und würdest Sie mit mir teilen? Danke vielmals, das wäre echt klasse.
Your wife is a trooper as was mine. When I did the same on the kitchen table. What I would have recommended is just to assemble the frame to get it square on kitchen table then clear your desk for the rest of the build. The only time where the kitchen table helps is the flat surface. Hopefully this helps another husband out who reads this. Happy wife happy life.
No no no. Happy spouse happy house. If it’s one way, statistically speaking eventually she will leave you because she doesn’t respect you. Get right before she gets out. Know your value.
Very nice! I have been following this build because I am planning to build the same LDO kit next winter. It will let me teach my three young kids about mechanical assembly, electrical wiring, software and design philosophy. These printers are fantastic learning tools
Using gridfinity bins to organize fasteners was a huge time saver on my second Voron build. It also makes moving them between workspaces much easier. Shuffling through 50+ little plastic bags looking for the correct fastener is no way to live. Great tips thanks!
You shouldn’t be installing both the exhaust filter fan and the nevermore mod together, usually it’s one or the other…. The LDO build FAQ has a link to an exhaust cover if you’re using the nevermore. Look into adding ‘Bed Fans’ to help with chamber temps for the large 350 space
I built a 310mm^3 direct-drive Cartesian as my first 3D printer, and I'll tell you this: Get a 7"+ touchscreen and add KlipperScreen. Having full control via touchscreen right at the machine as well as remotely through the web interface is _amazingly_ handy.
Mods I would recommend. Nevermore filter(and remove the rear exhaust),CANBUS toolhead board, Tap (vs using klicky) or incorporate Auto-Z calibration with klicky, case leds, klipperscreen, Purge bucket/nozzle scrub brush.
Nevermore :done:, I'll research the other 2. I'm not convinced by Tap. Oh, I also did the brush and bucket, and most of klipperscreen done, but waiitng on a cable :)
Some useful mods I would recommend: GE5C Z-Joins by Hartk - probably not video worthy, but removes play in the Z Extrusion Backers by tanaes - look for his github to show the research done on it Sexbolt Z Endstop by Hartk - If you don't plan on TAP Chamber temperature sensor - just good info to know Bed Fans by Ellis - Speeds up chamber heating, and useful in addition to Nevermore Phaetus Rapido + CHT has an impressive amount of flow, IMO
oh snap, i need to get on this. THANK YOU. I'm on the Rapido and CHT. Bed Fans are a must, b/c this thing doesn't cool as fast as my Bambu and that's what's slowing me down mostly
before I even started my build I counted out all the fixings into segmented organisers and labled each one. this way when I need something I can just find what I need all in one place
On the subject of putting the Voron in a second enclosure, I was relying on my 2.4 to print out things like the skirts, exhaust, side panels clips, electronics fan mounts, Nevermore, etc. -- all of the non-functional parts :). Because the printer is in my garage, and with it being winter in my area of the world, when printing ASA I was struggling with bed adhesion. I ended up placing the 2.4 into a soft enclosure and, with no fan over the electronics, I was seeing around 80C on the Pi and mainboard. I stuck a small fan with a clamp on it in the back to blow across the electronics and that still left me with temp readings around 60C. It can be done if you can figure out how to cool the electronics, but I would suggest leaving them open air. As for what's next, my build also left me with the itch and I picked up an LDO v0.1 kit during Black Friday in the US. The v0.2 though is more or less available, a few spools of ABS+ just came in today, so I think I'll start printing parts for that while LDO (hopefully) releases an upgrade path.
If you enjoyed the 2.4, buy a cheap kit of V0 and build it. Maybe not even for content as is already pretty chewed, but for your own enjoyment. After building several printers, the only one I keep building and building for mates and comissions, is the V0. Such an amazing joy.
Try adding an EBB42 CAN BUS for your V2 to get rid of most of the cable chains and replacing them with a small STM32 board sitting on board of your extruder motor. I am actually doing that right now.
When my slightly modded Ender 3 pro running klipper w/input shaping can print beautifully at 250mm/s set to 8000mm/s acceleration I just can't justify building a Voron, or even converting my existing ender to a n Enderwire(Switchwire Mod). My benchy comes out pretty much perfect in14:33 consistently. That being said I REALLY WANT a Voron printer......or maybe I really want to build one, I honestly don't know. No issues with your video, with a 7 month old I myself I can say that it was a ballsy move to work on this soo late into the pregnancy lmao. With the modifications I have in place I still want to upgrade a few things like swapping rollers for rails on the Z and X axis but I just can't think of much else that would improve the printer. A few months ago before I implemented klipper and input shaping I never thought I would say that about my ender 3 but this bad boy puts in work. I mean to compare what I have to the experience I got when I printed the first SD card dog print from the included ender sd card on an 8 bit board to Klipper w/input shaping, dual z axis, direct drive, bi-metal-all metal hotend, skr 1.4 board(for true dual z drive), bl touch, and upgraded 15x40 24V part cooling fan........you can hardly call it an ender anymore but I'm still very proud of my creation. :) Let me know what you think if you see this. Should I still consider it? There are many $50 ender 3 models on FB marketplace.........and I barely need a good excuse lol
For me, my main goal is to increase the reliability of my printer. I want to hit "print", I shouldn't have to babysit it, it should print successfully and parts should be to tolerance. For this, here is my top list for nice mods and upgrades: - Titanium extrusion backers, if you print ABS/ASA regularly - Kinematic bed mounting, if you print ABS/ASA regularly - Bed fans and nevermore, if you print ABS/ASA regularly - look into Z frame expansion compensation, if you print ABS/ASA regularly - GE5-C sperical bearings for Z-joints - If you want to impress your kids: Disco on a stick and rainbow barf for the nice extra rgb -if you really wanna up your max speeds or increase PLA/PETG quality at higher print speeds: get the Mantis Toolhead. This mod is a bit more involved, but packs weight reduction (even more if coupled with a quality MGN 9 rail for X), therefore printspeed improvements and more cooling performance for a reasonable additional cost. - a cool project, a bit more involved, but a great upgrade for ABS/ASA printing is on github at FrankenVoron/V2.4EZ . It's an extra outer shell for your printer that can be better insulated, thus increasing chamber temps and reducing energy consumption.
@@thenextlayer Unfortunately, it is out of service at the moment. The problem with having only one printer is that once you disassemble it, you don't have another one to print parts that you might need to fix it. As I'm working on my degree at the moment, I won't get around to fixing it in the next 1-2 months, so it will sit idle for a little while longer. But I got the promise that after finishing the degree I am allowed to buy and build a second V2.4! So the future is bright for me.
Pro Tip: Skip the exhaust and print a block off plate with Bowden passthrough. You're using nevermore, and you don't want to be venting that nice warm air the printer needs to print ABS. Just open the doors for PLA. I'd also really recommend filament snap latches for the panels, and 270° hinges for the doors. Thank me later and happy printing!!
I have now watched several of your videos (subscribed) and I don't have a printer (yet?). My problem is trying to watch your series on a subject. Numbering would help. For example Clough42 might title them Voron 1: Itchy wallet, Voron 2: Unboxing, Voron 3: Blowing it up. I came across the Bambu on his channel and followed up on yours. It appeals as a multi-colour turnkey device. I followed your conversation on closed vs open product like Voron. When you buy a car most of the parts are exclusively that brand. Only a few consumables can be got elsewhere and in 10 years no-one cares. The same with printers. Most people buy cheapies and ignore them in a month. Enthusiasts mod them and then ignore them because they have bought something bigger, better, brighter. BTW, Apple has done very well in their walled garden.
Hehehe, Every time I build something (and I build lots of things) I have learned to judge the WAF ( Wife Approval Factor ) and see how far I can get. It helps to occasionally build something just for her 😅. I’m awaiting my Trident kit now after my son bought me a Flashforge 3 to see if I’d like. Safe to say I’m obsessed. Great vid. Thanks
I don't know what other deadline pressure you were under, but I certainly wasn't going to hold you to getting a Voron printer done by a certain date. It's ok to produce "filler" content for a few weeks if you need a breather -- I certainly could have watched a few more "handy 3D printed things" videos from you, especially if you needed to focus on your family. (And frankly I don't care about the TH-cam algorithm, I'll still search out your channel occasionally just to check for updates. If you needed to take a break like Jeff Geerling did, I won't fault you in the slightest.) You don't have to hit every deadline the world talks about, just the really important ones! Take care of yourself and the family and the rest will follow!
This is great feedback, thank you for that - it means a lot to me to know you're thinking about my wellbeing and acknowledging the pressure "the algorithm" puts on us creators. However, most of the pressure was just wanting the house clean and the project off my chest before Elai was born :)
It's really good you share the pain because a lot of newbies get turned off when they start finding out that to 3D print is to live with your printer forever. Congratulations to you and your wife on having a real baby! It will be a lot more care for him than a printer, but a printer needs a lot of care, too. Your wife was SO admirable for dealing with your sprawl before she gave birth, you two must have a wonderful relationship...
Best advice here is organizations of both parts and tool and having a proper building area. Don't have a workshop ? Use the area where the printer will live to build it ! With that being said, I have two kids (albeit older than yours, congrats btw) and I managed to build my 2.4r1 "barebone" (no premade wire harness, no custom PCB, quite a lot o soldering, and the state of the instructions in 2020) kit in less than a week by working on it a few hours every evening, including s couple until the middle of the night... My point is it doesn't have to take 4-6 weeks to build a printer like this, even though I can understand why it would depending on your circumstances. Wouldn't want people to be put off by thinking it takes too long to build. Less ads this time, but that sneaky PCBway got me... I like it when there's a change of scenery or some logo / format change to indicate this is an ad segment.
I've been seeing all these Voron builds pop-up and just today was thinking a 350 would be a great next step from my Prusa Mini and would scratch the itch for another hardware project, but one bit of apprehension was also having a newborn. Turns out it can be done! Congrats on the build and to both you and momma on the birth! Let her know the internet appreciates her patience and tolerance 🤣 Here's to building up the next generation of hot-rodders! I look forward to seeing the channel grow. Kinda makes me want to dust off my own...
I watched this and your Orca slicer video. Great stuff! I am struggling to get Orca working on my Voron 2.4. There are so many variants, Fluid,Mainsail,and Octoprint. Chamber heating/no chamber heating, probe types, it’s hard to get specific help. How did you get I touch with CNC kitchen, or 24/7. Any thoughts
I think you'd be better off keeping that printer out of the cabinet for the reasons you outline. If you have vertical space, you could theoretically use the switchwire spool holder, or maybe adapt the salad spinner (a top-mounted spool holder designed for the printer-for-ants called the Salad Fork, which is a mini-Trident) for use with the 2.4.
Hi! Very good explanation of what it's like to put together a project like this! I'm also asking you, what is that script you mentioned for making time lapses? Thanks, greetings from Argentina!
Hey man, can you please do a video on your different print settings for different size nozzles? Like .2, .4, .6, .8 if you use them. And actually show the what the settings looks like?
@@thenextlayer okay how about not like down to the absolute detail. but just some general settings you think is best to adjust for different nozzle sizes. (and i know the filament can change these settings.) but man is it hard to get any kind of decent info out there about this kind of info. only a sugestion. if not thats okay.
Is there a solution for wiring the entire Voron 2.4 machine without having to solder anything, I started sorceing parts B4 I looked into how difficult the build is, after watching the Nero livestream build, I figured I could just buy a cheapo for the price of the remaining BOM parts I had yet to accuire, but never did. That was a year and a half ago, I was just reminded of projects left unfinished and this is would be the most fun.
Congratulations on your baby and Voron build! I don't know if it's in your interest, but @Rolohaun here on youtube makes some really interesting open source printer builds. Some of them have mostly printed parts (The Rook and Rook 180), but are very stable and almost as fast as a Voron. Also, I know you've made videos about printed tools and stuff. But I would love to see a video that shows how you sort all your tools, screws and in general your workspace - as well as highlighting which tools you use. Also, if you have, then what tools surprised you in how much you've and how little you've used them. Second idea: I challenge you to make a fully tricked-out RatRig V Minion with as many mods as possible (or the TicTac on printables)! An additional challenge to this would be printing the aluminum extrusions in something like Carbon Fiber Nylon or the like!
Nice job on the transition to the sponsor! That was smooth. The whole video was very well done. Also. Congrats on the baby! After a couple builds it gets easier. I can do a voron in two or three days now.
@@thenextlayer I've built a bunch of printers. I've never bought one. I've built 7 after rebuilding my 0.1 as a 0.2. It takes longer to print the parts on my 2.4 than it does to build it. You really should build a v0 they are incredibly handy for when you need a smaller part fast.
First of all, congratulations on the baby! :) Love your videos, and after watching the last 2 videos, i really want to get a Voron :) I wish you the best of luck tuning this gorgeous beast of a printer to perfection :) Cheers!
@@thenextlayer As a rule of thumb: If your printer is built without mistakes (like loose grub screws) and built out of quality parts as yours is, print quality lies to 95% in software! If you increase your print speed there will be a point at which quality (and reliability!) will start to decline due to physical/mechanical limits. Depending on how far you want to take your speedracing this might start to matter. If you crank the accelerations further, you will start to notice the inertia of your moving X-axis beam in the form of artifacts. And there will be a point where input shaper will not be able to compensate for these artifacts. And then the only solution is reducing the moving mass. There are different options for reducing mass. As far as I know the most weight loss lies in changing the X-axis rail to MGN-9 (get a high quality one) and switch to the Mantis toolhead. The weight loss is approximately 3-4x that of using titanium fasteners and comes with the additional plus of having two 5015 cooling fans with full airflow to the parts, so about 2,5x the cooling capacity of stealthburner. But (at least at the moment) won't have an upgrade path to the Voron Tap. (but you got the klicky probe already, so does it really matter ...) To me the weight reduction rabbit hole should progress like this: Stock V2.4 > Mantis toolhead = MGN 9 (especially impactful on 350) > Umbilical cord wiring > Reprinting parts on X-axis with lower infill (where possible) > lighter X beam (carbon fiber or skeletonized aluminium) = titanium fasteners (easy to do, but ~70g weight reduction for ~70 bucks [last i checked] on a 800g extrusion?) You should ask yourself how far you want to go on the speedboat racing, as there will be devastating diminishing returns of all of these upgrades. You got a 350 after all. It is orders of magnitudes more difficult to archieve speeds like 247printing on yours compared to his V0. And there will be hard stops dictated by physics. Do you want to see what it can do for science and then proceed to print at a reasonable 100-300 mm/s? You will learn a lot and get to love your Voron more and more by the day! Do you want to push it to the limits, compare it to others and run it for sustained periods at ludicrous speeds like 1500mm/s? Boi, you're in for a ride, it won't be pleasant and the results will be subpar.
@@thenextlayer Depending on your usecase, there is a different but highly impactful titanium upgrade. Are you planning to somewhat regularly print ABS/ASA? Then you'll want your chamber temps nice high and toasty. At these temperatures and especially with a 350x350 Voron, your aluminium X and Y-extrusions will deform as a bi-metal because of the bolted-on steel rails. And this deformation is SIGNIFICANT (0.3-0.4 mm in Z!) and can negatively impact the reliability of the first layer sticking and part tolerance. The solution are titanium backers for these extrusions which basically eliminate these deformations. As a fellow V2.4 350mm owner, in my opinion the titanium extrusion backers are among the most impactful mods regarding reliability ("hit go and forget, the print succedes") and reproducibility (of the produced) of these machines.
Huh I was just wondering a few hours ago if you had finished building the Voron. Congrats on finishing the build! I think the most important lesson here is not to build a complex printer build... when you're expecting a baby 😁
Big kudos on the build, it looks fantastic! - Overall though, this made me glad I bought a Bambu X1C 😁 If I were in a different phase of life and/or interests, I might well build a Voron, but these days I just want a printer I can simply send prints to and come take them out when they’re done. This far, the X1C/AMS is being exactly that :-)
Could you elaborate on the "really rare, bizarre incompatibility between the SD card, OctoKlipperPi and the specific version of the RaspberryPi"? I'm starting down the r2.4 journey and would like to side-step that pitfall. Thanks.
1. Your discord link doesn't work. I click it on mobile of desktop and it shoots me to discord but not your server 2. For knowing little to nothing about the Voron, honestly I still know little to nothing but I hope you'll give a update whenever you deem necessary 3. Seeing you grow as a creator and in general is awe inspiring so keep it up! 4. Congrats on the new kiddo! Maybe you could do a fun video on fun toys/gadgets you make it!
1. Thanks for letting me know - jle.vi/tnl-discord :) 2. What else would you like to know? Open to feedback 3. Wow, thank you, honored! 4. Thank you, you're too kind :) And yeah, I wanna do a toy video
If you are wanting to convert your prusa to klipper I have a video on how to use an old android phone to run it. That way you can use Klipper Screen on your phone and use it as a touch interface as well!
Coingratulations on your new born! Also on making a Voron! You plan on making a advance setup and config for speed printing? Maybe sharing your 0.6 Profile? Thanks again and keep going! :)
@@thenextlayer "I'd love to thank the community for reaching out to help me in so many ways" "My profile? Sure, sure, how about for a monthly fee?" Sorry for the criticism, brother, but it comes off a little less than gracious. By way of apology for my critique, here's how I'd split the baby. Offer up a base set, maybe talk about how you'll probably update it once a year or so. "However! As I make meaningful changes that help out my prints, it gets a running update on my Patreon at patreon/*, along with (whatever benefits) and new profiles as I dial in more kinds of filament" Gives back a little, and lets you promote the grind in a way that comes off more as added value than feeling like a paywall, know what I mean? Once again, apologies.
@@thenextlayer Thank you but I can not afford to pateron just yet :) I understand you but also this is an open share community that is why I asked. In any case thank you and keep the good work hope you enjoy your voron! :)
I have a broken Tevo Tornado that still has many functioning parts, is there any reason I couldn't repurpose many parts from that to make a 300x300 Voron?
Tuning guide is long for sure. But so worth the results. Though with a newborn it may be difficult to dedicate the time to it. If you're getting good results, maybe stick with that now?
I prefer TAP as you only have probe offset, not probe and endstop. You can also change the build plate and nozzle at the same time, no adjustment necessary. Zero chance of dock undock issues. No glued in wires to work loose. I also just like the idea of the fact that what you're trying to do is measure the gap between nozzle and bed. And with TAP you use this by using the nozzle touching the bed. Makes sense to my little brain. It's also been a while (before TAP) without me scaring up my PEI with an offset error or issue. But that may have been user error 🤨
@@thenextlayer I wonder what that could be.... though honestly, the build for the ERCF is fantastic! I would highly recommend it just for the challenge!
Congratulations on both of your babies! :D It's great to join you in your build adventure... like Mark, hopefully by the time I'm able to build my own, the kits would have improved & made it less fool-prone ;) Enjoy your new toy & your new distraction. Cheers!
Thank you for some of the tips but if I may give you one back maybe keep some of the family problems private by the end I got tired of hearing my wife , my wife. And congraz for the new born.
Look up Ellis Tuning Guide he also has amazing profiles that can help you go fast w nice quality. If you keed any help I will be glad to walk you through whatever you need 😁
@@thenextlayer For our first baby my wife kindly asked her to wait to be born until we got to see the first hunger games movie in theaters. We went opening night and our daughter was born the next day haha.
0:48 if you are dumb enough not to practice basic electrical safety, also if you are that worried and don't already have one then you should get a ground fault protection service installed in your outlets or breaker box depending on local regulations.
Respectfully: (...unless, of course, your son ends up hating anything "STEM" and becomes a world-class gymnast, oil painter, pilot, F1 driver, etc. I think they sometimes add an A to make it "STEAM". )
@@thenextlayer Lol nothing wrong with using it. I just always find them funny. That one for instance isn't soldering anything. Just showing some resin smoke.
Stopped at saying the documentation is clear. Probably one of the most indigenous things I've heard someone say. Also, not sure if there was supposed to be something after "let's talk about...." because all I saw was your...logo? But, I don't watch ads, especially 15-30 minute ones.
@@thenextlayer Allright then, it's a "clean your room" thing of which your parents wanted you to see the purpose 😂 A full workshop sound like a dream man, Cheers!👍
So, congrats on finishing the build, I guess, and sharing your learnings is great and all, but the dig at Mark Rober's intro engineering kits for kids was completely unnecessary and in extremely poor taste. You can promote what you think is a good experience without trying to put down other options. Learning, in particular, is EXTREMELY personal, and the way you do it will not match the way everyone else does. I've watched several of your videos recently, and I know you can do better than this. Bad form all around with this choice.
That's good feedback, it wasn't meant as a "dig," I'm actually a HUGE Mark Rober fan, but I *do* honestly believe that building a 3D printer will be a better learning challenge for kids than any simple toy can be. That's not a dig AT ALL, it just means that I think "applied learning" with real engineering-grade projects will be a bigger challenge. Nothing against Mark!
Gee, it would be nice if people would stop framing wives as the ball and chain, holding you back from your passions. If that's how you felt you should have married more of a nerd who could share in your hobbies.
1st of all no one wants to watch a 3 minute intro and your sponsor put that in the middle of your video. 2nd of all the Bitcoin symbol and the bull, Prusa Mk3s+ Is way better. Look at all the separation lines on the other one from the voron all over the body. Just because it can print fast doesn't mean it prints quality. Vor on is overrated, Once you get so fast your quality goes out the door no matter what anyone tries to say I know from experience. There's absolutely no reason to be running P LA filament 300 mm a second, Absolutely ridiculous and just looking for a problem. I can get my prusa printing just as fast as the voron and same Super fast C grade quality...
THANK YOU for watching, liking, and commenting! Let me know your thoughts, and what I could be doing better, below?
Honestly, you are doing great. I would caution you to not grow beyond your means. You seem like the kind of person who might tend to think that you need the latest and greatest equipment or sound quality or a pristine background etc. But really we just want to see interesting projects. Not necessarily big, expensive, or time consuming projects. One suggestion for the next voron video would be to discuss the costs that would be associated with a project like yours with all your upgrades and everything.
Wundervolles Video! Es ist zwar schon etwas her aber den 150er Rahmen verkauft CR3D nach wie vor. Hast du die angepassten STL's zufällig noch und würdest Sie mit mir teilen? Danke vielmals, das wäre echt klasse.
You: I built a 3d printer!
Wife: hold my beer, I printed a baby
LOL!
Your wife is a trooper as was mine. When I did the same on the kitchen table. What I would have recommended is just to assemble the frame to get it square on kitchen table then clear your desk for the rest of the build. The only time where the kitchen table helps is the flat surface. Hopefully this helps another husband out who reads this. Happy wife happy life.
agreed!!
No no no. Happy spouse happy house. If it’s one way, statistically speaking eventually she will leave you because she doesn’t respect you. Get right before she gets out. Know your value.
Very nice! I have been following this build because I am planning to build the same LDO kit next winter. It will let me teach my three young kids about mechanical assembly, electrical wiring, software and design philosophy. These printers are fantastic learning tools
You can do it!
Why is it I find you everywhere. Get out of my youtube Sean.
Using gridfinity bins to organize fasteners was a huge time saver on my second Voron build. It also makes moving them between workspaces much easier. Shuffling through 50+ little plastic bags looking for the correct fastener is no way to live. Great tips thanks!
WORD. Wish I'd done it...
You shouldn’t be installing both the exhaust filter fan and the nevermore mod together, usually it’s one or the other…. The LDO build FAQ has a link to an exhaust cover if you’re using the nevermore. Look into adding ‘Bed Fans’ to help with chamber temps for the large 350 space
i might do that, but for now i gotta move on to the 3-4 other printers i have to review...
I built a 310mm^3 direct-drive Cartesian as my first 3D printer, and I'll tell you this:
Get a 7"+ touchscreen and add KlipperScreen. Having full control via touchscreen right at the machine as well as remotely through the web interface is _amazingly_ handy.
Mods I would recommend. Nevermore filter(and remove the rear exhaust),CANBUS toolhead board, Tap (vs using klicky) or incorporate Auto-Z calibration with klicky, case leds, klipperscreen, Purge bucket/nozzle scrub brush.
Nevermore :done:, I'll research the other 2. I'm not convinced by Tap. Oh, I also did the brush and bucket, and most of klipperscreen done, but waiitng on a cable :)
Some useful mods I would recommend:
GE5C Z-Joins by Hartk - probably not video worthy, but removes play in the Z
Extrusion Backers by tanaes - look for his github to show the research done on it
Sexbolt Z Endstop by Hartk - If you don't plan on TAP
Chamber temperature sensor - just good info to know
Bed Fans by Ellis - Speeds up chamber heating, and useful in addition to Nevermore
Phaetus Rapido + CHT has an impressive amount of flow, IMO
oh snap, i need to get on this. THANK YOU. I'm on the Rapido and CHT. Bed Fans are a must, b/c this thing doesn't cool as fast as my Bambu and that's what's slowing me down mostly
before I even started my build I counted out all the fixings into segmented organisers and labled each one. this way when I need something I can just find what I need all in one place
Bro, im a working student and I barely have time to print. Kudos to you for balancing everything, I know that was the hardest part!
On the subject of putting the Voron in a second enclosure, I was relying on my 2.4 to print out things like the skirts, exhaust, side panels clips, electronics fan mounts, Nevermore, etc. -- all of the non-functional parts :). Because the printer is in my garage, and with it being winter in my area of the world, when printing ASA I was struggling with bed adhesion. I ended up placing the 2.4 into a soft enclosure and, with no fan over the electronics, I was seeing around 80C on the Pi and mainboard. I stuck a small fan with a clamp on it in the back to blow across the electronics and that still left me with temp readings around 60C. It can be done if you can figure out how to cool the electronics, but I would suggest leaving them open air.
As for what's next, my build also left me with the itch and I picked up an LDO v0.1 kit during Black Friday in the US. The v0.2 though is more or less available, a few spools of ABS+ just came in today, so I think I'll start printing parts for that while LDO (hopefully) releases an upgrade path.
Thanks for sharing :)
If you enjoyed the 2.4, buy a cheap kit of V0 and build it. Maybe not even for content as is already pretty chewed, but for your own enjoyment.
After building several printers, the only one I keep building and building for mates and comissions, is the V0. Such an amazing joy.
I wish I had time to do 3D Printing stuff that wasn't relevant for content... lol
@@thenextlayer Well. Enjoy while you do content then...
Try adding an EBB42 CAN BUS for your V2 to get rid of most of the cable chains and replacing them with a small STM32 board sitting on board of your extruder motor. I am actually doing that right now.
Oooh, neat
If you're running the nevermore you don't need the exhaust, you should block it off..
Done and one :)
When my slightly modded Ender 3 pro running klipper w/input shaping can print beautifully at 250mm/s set to 8000mm/s acceleration I just can't justify building a Voron, or even converting my existing ender to a n Enderwire(Switchwire Mod). My benchy comes out pretty much perfect in14:33 consistently. That being said I REALLY WANT a Voron printer......or maybe I really want to build one, I honestly don't know. No issues with your video, with a 7 month old I myself I can say that it was a ballsy move to work on this soo late into the pregnancy lmao. With the modifications I have in place I still want to upgrade a few things like swapping rollers for rails on the Z and X axis but I just can't think of much else that would improve the printer. A few months ago before I implemented klipper and input shaping I never thought I would say that about my ender 3 but this bad boy puts in work. I mean to compare what I have to the experience I got when I printed the first SD card dog print from the included ender sd card on an 8 bit board to Klipper w/input shaping, dual z axis, direct drive, bi-metal-all metal hotend, skr 1.4 board(for true dual z drive), bl touch, and upgraded 15x40 24V part cooling fan........you can hardly call it an ender anymore but I'm still very proud of my creation. :) Let me know what you think if you see this. Should I still consider it? There are many $50 ender 3 models on FB marketplace.........and I barely need a good excuse lol
For me, my main goal is to increase the reliability of my printer. I want to hit "print", I shouldn't have to babysit it, it should print successfully and parts should be to tolerance. For this, here is my top list for nice mods and upgrades:
- Titanium extrusion backers, if you print ABS/ASA regularly
- Kinematic bed mounting, if you print ABS/ASA regularly
- Bed fans and nevermore, if you print ABS/ASA regularly
- look into Z frame expansion compensation, if you print ABS/ASA regularly
- GE5-C sperical bearings for Z-joints
- If you want to impress your kids: Disco on a stick and rainbow barf for the nice extra rgb
-if you really wanna up your max speeds or increase PLA/PETG quality at higher print speeds: get the Mantis Toolhead. This mod is a bit more involved, but packs weight reduction (even more if coupled with a quality MGN 9 rail for X), therefore printspeed improvements and more cooling performance for a reasonable additional cost.
- a cool project, a bit more involved, but a great upgrade for ABS/ASA printing is on github at FrankenVoron/V2.4EZ . It's an extra outer shell for your printer that can be better insulated, thus increasing chamber temps and reducing energy consumption.
Wow, impressive.... Where can I see pics/video of your printer? Sounds insane...
@@thenextlayer Unfortunately, it is out of service at the moment. The problem with having only one printer is that once you disassemble it, you don't have another one to print parts that you might need to fix it. As I'm working on my degree at the moment, I won't get around to fixing it in the next 1-2 months, so it will sit idle for a little while longer. But I got the promise that after finishing the degree I am allowed to buy and build a second V2.4! So the future is bright for me.
Pro Tip: Skip the exhaust and print a block off plate with Bowden passthrough. You're using nevermore, and you don't want to be venting that nice warm air the printer needs to print ABS. Just open the doors for PLA. I'd also really recommend filament snap latches for the panels, and 270° hinges for the doors. Thank me later and happy printing!!
Just DM me if you want the links.
Done and done,t hanks
I have now watched several of your videos (subscribed) and I don't have a printer (yet?). My problem is trying to watch your series on a subject. Numbering would help. For example Clough42 might title them Voron 1: Itchy wallet, Voron 2: Unboxing, Voron 3: Blowing it up. I came across the Bambu on his channel and followed up on yours. It appeals as a multi-colour turnkey device.
I followed your conversation on closed vs open product like Voron. When you buy a car most of the parts are exclusively that brand. Only a few consumables can be got elsewhere and in 10 years no-one cares. The same with printers. Most people buy cheapies and ignore them in a month. Enthusiasts mod them and then ignore them because they have bought something bigger, better, brighter. BTW, Apple has done very well in their walled garden.
Hehehe, Every time I build something (and I build lots of things) I have learned to judge the WAF ( Wife Approval Factor ) and see how far I can get. It helps to occasionally build something just for her 😅.
I’m awaiting my Trident kit now after my son bought me a Flashforge 3 to see if I’d like. Safe to say I’m obsessed.
Great vid. Thanks
Just built this exact kit, what a work of art.
Agreed
Please more Voron videos. I am still working on building the LDO 2.4 kit. Quite an enjoyable build and learning tons!
Ideas? I have so many other printers and lasers I need to cover... so I kinda need to move on. But if you have ideas, lmk
I don't know what other deadline pressure you were under, but I certainly wasn't going to hold you to getting a Voron printer done by a certain date.
It's ok to produce "filler" content for a few weeks if you need a breather -- I certainly could have watched a few more "handy 3D printed things" videos from you, especially if you needed to focus on your family. (And frankly I don't care about the TH-cam algorithm, I'll still search out your channel occasionally just to check for updates. If you needed to take a break like Jeff Geerling did, I won't fault you in the slightest.)
You don't have to hit every deadline the world talks about, just the really important ones!
Take care of yourself and the family and the rest will follow!
This is great feedback, thank you for that - it means a lot to me to know you're thinking about my wellbeing and acknowledging the pressure "the algorithm" puts on us creators. However, most of the pressure was just wanting the house clean and the project off my chest before Elai was born :)
It's really good you share the pain because a lot of newbies get turned off when they start finding out that to 3D print is to live with your printer forever. Congratulations to you and your wife on having a real baby! It will be a lot more care for him than a printer, but a printer needs a lot of care, too. Your wife was SO admirable for dealing with your sprawl before she gave birth, you two must have a wonderful relationship...
Congratulations and thanks for still being dedicated too your channel and still putting vids out
I appreciate that!
If you wanna go fast, I’d reccomend getting a lighter X beam and a lighter toolhead like a mantis. I’m running 25k accel on my trident with those mods
Oh wow, impressive... even on 350 though?
@@thenextlayer 300 trident. But I could only manage 15k on a stock motion system
Congratulations for your baby! Did you upgraded to TAP? It’s the best way to probe by far!
Best advice here is organizations of both parts and tool and having a proper building area. Don't have a workshop ? Use the area where the printer will live to build it !
With that being said, I have two kids (albeit older than yours, congrats btw) and I managed to build my 2.4r1 "barebone" (no premade wire harness, no custom PCB, quite a lot o soldering, and the state of the instructions in 2020) kit in less than a week by working on it a few hours every evening, including s couple until the middle of the night... My point is it doesn't have to take 4-6 weeks to build a printer like this, even though I can understand why it would depending on your circumstances. Wouldn't want people to be put off by thinking it takes too long to build.
Less ads this time, but that sneaky PCBway got me... I like it when there's a change of scenery or some logo / format change to indicate this is an ad segment.
Good feedback, thank you
I've been seeing all these Voron builds pop-up and just today was thinking a 350 would be a great next step from my Prusa Mini and would scratch the itch for another hardware project, but one bit of apprehension was also having a newborn. Turns out it can be done!
Congrats on the build and to both you and momma on the birth! Let her know the internet appreciates her patience and tolerance 🤣
Here's to building up the next generation of hot-rodders! I look forward to seeing the channel grow. Kinda makes me want to dust off my own...
Yeah man! You can do it, just don't rush :)
Congratulations to your family on the new baby!
Thank you!
I watched this and your Orca slicer video. Great stuff! I am struggling to get Orca working on my Voron 2.4. There are so many variants, Fluid,Mainsail,and Octoprint. Chamber heating/no chamber heating, probe types, it’s hard to get specific help. How did you get I touch with CNC kitchen, or 24/7. Any thoughts
I just finished my 0.2R1. Building printers is fun, but not for the faint of heart.
Did you ever publish your printer config? I also did the LDO v2.4 build and prints are perfect but looking to improve the speed.
Sounds like you have some good friends. I'd want 24/7 printing and CNC kitchen in my corner too! Congrats on your beautiful baby!
They're super nice guys, and have welcomed me into the space with open arms. I'm super grateful to make their acquaintance!
I would love to see a Positron V3 build, there's no builds on TH-cam
Haven't heard of it... let me google ;)
@@thenextlayer it prints upside-down
Does Stefan have his .cnfg posted somewhere? My LDO kit arrives Thursday and I'd much appreciate not having to start that part from scratch.
I don't think he does... but a lot of people on the discord do.... :)
I think you'd be better off keeping that printer out of the cabinet for the reasons you outline. If you have vertical space, you could theoretically use the switchwire spool holder, or maybe adapt the salad spinner (a top-mounted spool holder designed for the printer-for-ants called the Salad Fork, which is a mini-Trident) for use with the 2.4.
Good tips, hopefully I get a new space though
Hi! Very good explanation of what it's like to put together a project like this! I'm also asking you, what is that script you mentioned for making time lapses? Thanks, greetings from Argentina!
Love, love, love the passion that comes across in your videos. I know I'm nowhere near ready to tackle the Voron build yet, but I might get there 🤣
Thank you for the kind words, they keep me going!
Congrats on the new family member :)
Thank you!!
Hey man, can you please do a video on your different print settings for different size nozzles? Like .2, .4, .6, .8 if you use them. And actually show the what the settings looks like?
Whew, that is a big ask. I'm working on perfecting them honestly...
@@thenextlayer okay how about not like down to the absolute detail. but just some general settings you think is best to adjust for different nozzle sizes. (and i know the filament can change these settings.) but man is it hard to get any kind of decent info out there about this kind of info. only a sugestion. if not thats okay.
Congrats dude 😊
Is there a solution for wiring the entire Voron 2.4 machine without having to solder anything, I started sorceing parts B4 I looked into how difficult the build is, after watching the Nero livestream build, I figured I could just buy a cheapo for the price of the remaining BOM parts I had yet to accuire, but never did. That was a year and a half ago, I was just reminded of projects left unfinished and this is would be the most fun.
Congratulations on your baby and Voron build!
I don't know if it's in your interest, but @Rolohaun here on youtube makes some really interesting open source printer builds. Some of them have mostly printed parts (The Rook and Rook 180), but are very stable and almost as fast as a Voron.
Also, I know you've made videos about printed tools and stuff. But I would love to see a video that shows how you sort all your tools, screws and in general your workspace - as well as highlighting which tools you use. Also, if you have, then what tools surprised you in how much you've and how little you've used them.
Second idea: I challenge you to make a fully tricked-out RatRig V Minion with as many mods as possible (or the TicTac on printables)! An additional challenge to this would be printing the aluminum extrusions in something like Carbon Fiber Nylon or the like!
Thanks for the kind words. Wow, need to check those out... sounds cool
Nice job on the transition to the sponsor! That was smooth. The whole video was very well done. Also. Congrats on the baby! After a couple builds it gets easier. I can do a voron in two or three days now.
wow... respect dude!
@@thenextlayer I've built a bunch of printers. I've never bought one. I've built 7 after rebuilding my 0.1 as a 0.2. It takes longer to print the parts on my 2.4 than it does to build it. You really should build a v0 they are incredibly handy for when you need a smaller part fast.
Thank you for sharing! I’m sure you have tons of tips and tricks and more to share about the voron build process! Great video!
Glad it was helpful!
Congratz on your build and of course on you baby, much health for the little guy.
thank you so much!
First of all, congratulations on the baby! :) Love your videos, and after watching the last 2 videos, i really want to get a Voron :) I wish you the best of luck tuning this gorgeous beast of a printer to perfection :) Cheers!
Thank you so much. Yeah, if you enjoy building, the Voron can't be beat! If you want a "it works out of the box" printer... it's not for you!
Very helpful video as I embark on my build
Let's see that tool changing mod. Not immediately, of course, but it would be a hell of an upgrade.
Whew... that's a hell of a project!
Check out titanium hardware, you can decrease the weight of the toolhead by 74g by replacing screws, nuts and washers
Interesting... does it make a difference in the print speed and qulaity though?
@@thenextlayer As a rule of thumb: If your printer is built without mistakes (like loose grub screws) and built out of quality parts as yours is, print quality lies to 95% in software! If you increase your print speed there will be a point at which quality (and reliability!) will start to decline due to physical/mechanical limits. Depending on how far you want to take your speedracing this might start to matter. If you crank the accelerations further, you will start to notice the inertia of your moving X-axis beam in the form of artifacts. And there will be a point where input shaper will not be able to compensate for these artifacts. And then the only solution is reducing the moving mass.
There are different options for reducing mass. As far as I know the most weight loss lies in changing the X-axis rail to MGN-9 (get a high quality one) and switch to the Mantis toolhead. The weight loss is approximately 3-4x that of using titanium fasteners and comes with the additional plus of having two 5015 cooling fans with full airflow to the parts, so about 2,5x the cooling capacity of stealthburner. But (at least at the moment) won't have an upgrade path to the Voron Tap. (but you got the klicky probe already, so does it really matter ...)
To me the weight reduction rabbit hole should progress like this: Stock V2.4 > Mantis toolhead = MGN 9 (especially impactful on 350) > Umbilical cord wiring > Reprinting parts on X-axis with lower infill (where possible) > lighter X beam (carbon fiber or skeletonized aluminium) = titanium fasteners (easy to do, but ~70g weight reduction for ~70 bucks [last i checked] on a 800g extrusion?)
You should ask yourself how far you want to go on the speedboat racing, as there will be devastating diminishing returns of all of these upgrades. You got a 350 after all. It is orders of magnitudes more difficult to archieve speeds like 247printing on yours compared to his V0. And there will be hard stops dictated by physics. Do you want to see what it can do for science and then proceed to print at a reasonable 100-300 mm/s? You will learn a lot and get to love your Voron more and more by the day! Do you want to push it to the limits, compare it to others and run it for sustained periods at ludicrous speeds like 1500mm/s? Boi, you're in for a ride, it won't be pleasant and the results will be subpar.
@@thenextlayer Depending on your usecase, there is a different but highly impactful titanium upgrade. Are you planning to somewhat regularly print ABS/ASA? Then you'll want your chamber temps nice high and toasty. At these temperatures and especially with a 350x350 Voron, your aluminium X and Y-extrusions will deform as a bi-metal because of the bolted-on steel rails. And this deformation is SIGNIFICANT (0.3-0.4 mm in Z!) and can negatively impact the reliability of the first layer sticking and part tolerance. The solution are titanium backers for these extrusions which basically eliminate these deformations. As a fellow V2.4 350mm owner, in my opinion the titanium extrusion backers are among the most impactful mods regarding reliability ("hit go and forget, the print succedes") and reproducibility (of the produced) of these machines.
Congrats for the baby !!! Ah, and for the build to 😁
Any chance you can share your settings for the sub 20 minute benchy?
Huh I was just wondering a few hours ago if you had finished building the Voron. Congrats on finishing the build! I think the most important lesson here is not to build a complex printer build... when you're expecting a baby 😁
truth
Enjoyed the video but heck no to voron. This again confirmed my decision to skip a Voron build! I do love my Bambu Lab even more now. LOL
Great video, useful tips! Could it be a trident next time? And, maybe a full build video? 😁
0.2 incoming…
מזל טוב יונתן :)
THANKS!
Big kudos on the build, it looks fantastic!
- Overall though, this made me glad I bought a Bambu X1C 😁 If I were in a different phase of life and/or interests, I might well build a Voron, but these days I just want a printer I can simply send prints to and come take them out when they’re done. This far, the X1C/AMS is being exactly that :-)
3D printer as a tool Vs 3D printer as a hobby. Both are valid. Voron is definitely hobby.
I think you hit the nail on the head. Building has to be your hobby for this to make sense.
100%, nicely said
I am really happy with my Bambulab X1C, but I really need one that can print 600mm long parts
Would love to get a Bambu that could do that
Could you elaborate on the "really rare, bizarre incompatibility between the SD card, OctoKlipperPi and the specific version of the RaspberryPi"? I'm starting down the r2.4 journey and would like to side-step that pitfall. Thanks.
Yikes, I don't remember I'm afraid...
1. Your discord link doesn't work. I click it on mobile of desktop and it shoots me to discord but not your server
2. For knowing little to nothing about the Voron, honestly I still know little to nothing but I hope you'll give a update whenever you deem necessary
3. Seeing you grow as a creator and in general is awe inspiring so keep it up!
4. Congrats on the new kiddo! Maybe you could do a fun video on fun toys/gadgets you make it!
1. Thanks for letting me know - jle.vi/tnl-discord :)
2. What else would you like to know? Open to feedback
3. Wow, thank you, honored!
4. Thank you, you're too kind :) And yeah, I wanna do a toy video
If you are wanting to convert your prusa to klipper I have a video on how to use an old android phone to run it. That way you can use Klipper Screen on your phone and use it as a touch interface as well!
OOOOH nice, but I do already have a raspberry pi on my machine, so I'd probably just use that...
@@thenextlayer Well if you are ever short on a raspberry pi then you know where to look!
Coingratulations on your new born! Also on making a Voron! You plan on making a advance setup and config for speed printing? Maybe sharing your 0.6 Profile? Thanks again and keep going! :)
Thanks so much! I've considered sharing my profiles with Patreon supporters - would that be something that would incentivize you?
@@thenextlayer "I'd love to thank the community for reaching out to help me in so many ways"
"My profile? Sure, sure, how about for a monthly fee?"
Sorry for the criticism, brother, but it comes off a little less than gracious. By way of apology for my critique, here's how I'd split the baby. Offer up a base set, maybe talk about how you'll probably update it once a year or so. "However! As I make meaningful changes that help out my prints, it gets a running update on my Patreon at patreon/*, along with (whatever benefits) and new profiles as I dial in more kinds of filament"
Gives back a little, and lets you promote the grind in a way that comes off more as added value than feeling like a paywall, know what I mean? Once again, apologies.
@@thenextlayer Thank you but I can not afford to pateron just yet :) I understand you but also this is an open share community that is why I asked. In any case thank you and keep the good work hope you enjoy your voron! :)
Banger
Thanks!
I have a broken Tevo Tornado that still has many functioning parts, is there any reason I couldn't repurpose many parts from that to make a 300x300 Voron?
Probably could
And now it's working, time to ditch the Klicky and install TAP. I love TAP.
Also Andrew Ellis tuning guide is the tuning bible.
Yeah I need to go through it but it's sooooo long lol
Can you sell me on it? I've been offered it, but I can't for the life of me figure out why it's better. Klicky works awesome for me?
Tuning guide is long for sure. But so worth the results. Though with a newborn it may be difficult to dedicate the time to it. If you're getting good results, maybe stick with that now?
I prefer TAP as you only have probe offset, not probe and endstop. You can also change the build plate and nozzle at the same time, no adjustment necessary. Zero chance of dock undock issues. No glued in wires to work loose.
I also just like the idea of the fact that what you're trying to do is measure the gap between nozzle and bed. And with TAP you use this by using the nozzle touching the bed. Makes sense to my little brain.
It's also been a while (before TAP) without me scaring up my PEI with an offset error or issue. But that may have been user error 🤨
The baby wasn't named Voron? I am slightly disappointed due to the way the story build up "after finishing my Voron..." :D
LOL, wife wouldn't go for it, what can I do?
ERCF would be a great upgrade and might help your spool issue ;)
True... but I may or may not already have another multi-color printer that I got since recording this one...
@@thenextlayer I wonder what that could be.... though honestly, the build for the ERCF is fantastic! I would highly recommend it just for the challenge!
Congratulations on both of your babies! :D
It's great to join you in your build adventure... like Mark, hopefully by the time I'm able to build my own, the kits would have improved & made it less fool-prone ;)
Enjoy your new toy & your new distraction. Cheers!
THANK YOU!
I just did the exact same thing with my v0 build wife just had the baby
CONGRATS :) I highly recommend printing lansinoh replacement caps ;)
“Maybe the smaller 0.1”… not anymore!
I know, right? I record a video, but the world keeps moving! Next week's video, half of it has changed since I recorded!
I can't wait to win my kit from your sweepstakes! Building my first Voron is going to be great.
How's the build going?
@@ogpennywise I didn't win lol
Thank you for some of the tips but if I may give you one back maybe keep some of the family problems private by the end I got tired of hearing my wife , my wife. And congraz for the new born.
Is the voron ldo worth it’s money when i already have an Bambu X1C?
One is a project the other is a tool. Hard to compare them. I love both!
@@thenextlayer ok Thank you
There's something about that Bitcoin Orange hotend that brings the whole build together
Thanks! I've since reprinted it in 2-tone :)
Look up Ellis Tuning Guide he also has amazing profiles that can help you go fast w nice quality. If you keed any help I will be glad to walk you through whatever you need 😁
Yep, I need to do that, the guys at Rav Meimad told me the same
Too late to build a Voron 0.1, the 0.2 is out! :)
Yeah, I recorded this 2 weeks ago! Exciting stuff. I want one...
Tbh custom pcb’s have bin around for a long time. You just had to have a more direct contact with China.
SO
MANY
SPONSORS
I don’t know how much of this video I can actually trust.
Cool hat and congratulations on having a baby who is so considerate of your time 😂
THANKS!
@@thenextlayer For our first baby my wife kindly asked her to wait to be born until we got to see the first hunger games movie in theaters. We went opening night and our daughter was born the next day haha.
Voron 2.4 is the printer to go for, but quite expensive.
agreed... it's really only logical if it's your hobby to build stuff
bUT why use octoklipper ? forget about it, use mainsail and the best solution
Yeah, I didn't know what I was missing man. Mainsail is smoooooth
Is this the 350?
0:48 if you are dumb enough not to practice basic electrical safety, also if you are that worried and don't already have one then you should get a ground fault protection service installed in your outlets or breaker box depending on local regulations.
@7:12 Beautiful cat :)
Respectfully: (...unless, of course, your son ends up hating anything "STEM" and becomes a world-class gymnast, oil painter, pilot, F1 driver, etc. I think they sometimes add an A to make it "STEAM". )
7:08 haha cat 🐱
RIP Sandy. She disappeared this winter.
Very nice!
When can you drop it off at my house? ;)
LOL I wouldn't sell this thing for all the money in the world after working so hard on this thing!
@The Next Layer ya you have done an amazing job and excellent vid documentary of it.
Can't wait to see outputs.
Personally I am waiting that some Chinese company sell them plug and play. I could not go through the pain of building one.
You technically can, the cheapest prebuilt you can buy is the formbot voron 2.4r2pro+ kit around 2k
Not to be rude but u wrote maked instead of made. I think made is the correct word and good job on the build!
hehe it was intentional to get people to click :)
@@thenextlayer ah XD
Another amazing video, thank you.
I'm planning on building V0 with my classmates for our industrial design atelier and this helps a lot
Glad it was helpful!
Lol at that stock video at 2:00
Yeah, what's wrong with stock video tho?
@@thenextlayer Lol nothing wrong with using it. I just always find them funny. That one for instance isn't soldering anything. Just showing some resin smoke.
Stopped at saying the documentation is clear. Probably one of the most indigenous things I've heard someone say.
Also, not sure if there was supposed to be something after "let's talk about...." because all I saw was your...logo? But, I don't watch ads, especially 15-30 minute ones.
So your wife has a dedicated spot for working in the house, but you don't?
So demand that man cave! Heck, you've given her a baby right? 😆
I have many, but they're all full ;) These days I have a full studio / workshop though, this video is quite old
@@thenextlayer Allright then, it's a "clean your room" thing of which your parents wanted you to see the purpose 😂
A full workshop sound like a dream man, Cheers!👍
אתה ישראלי?
yep
So, congrats on finishing the build, I guess, and sharing your learnings is great and all, but the dig at Mark Rober's intro engineering kits for kids was completely unnecessary and in extremely poor taste. You can promote what you think is a good experience without trying to put down other options. Learning, in particular, is EXTREMELY personal, and the way you do it will not match the way everyone else does. I've watched several of your videos recently, and I know you can do better than this. Bad form all around with this choice.
That's good feedback, it wasn't meant as a "dig," I'm actually a HUGE Mark Rober fan, but I *do* honestly believe that building a 3D printer will be a better learning challenge for kids than any simple toy can be. That's not a dig AT ALL, it just means that I think "applied learning" with real engineering-grade projects will be a bigger challenge. Nothing against Mark!
Gee, it would be nice if people would stop framing wives as the ball and chain, holding you back from your passions. If that's how you felt you should have married more of a nerd who could share in your hobbies.
Sigh* maybe one day...
Self source if you want to save money :)
1st of all no one wants to watch a 3 minute intro and your sponsor put that in the middle of your video. 2nd of all the Bitcoin symbol and the bull, Prusa Mk3s+ Is way better. Look at all the separation lines on the other one from the voron all over the body. Just because it can print fast doesn't mean it prints quality. Vor on is overrated, Once you get so fast your quality goes out the door no matter what anyone tries to say I know from experience. There's absolutely no reason to be running P LA filament 300 mm a second, Absolutely ridiculous and just looking for a problem. I can get my prusa printing just as fast as the voron and same Super fast C grade quality...
Sounds like someone is in denial….
Free Palestine !
Let's not get into politics here. You don't want to hear what I have to say anyways.
Please LEARN English,, MAKED is not a word...
intentional to get people to click and comment to increase engagement. it worked