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hi! I also started using Eddy! I have a problem when I print parts with a grid from Eddy. The height of the printed parts increases by about +0.6 mm. What could it be??? FADE is off! If without a grid, all the dimensions are perfect!

What about lidar? Isn't it fast too?

I have a X1C and a A1 Mini, when i do the calibration process for the Mini, can the results be transferred to the X1?

probably a dumb question but... would i continue to leave the flow calibration UNchecked after all the calibration is done? Or do I just leave that unchecked for the actual calibrating?

Can someone please explain why use armbian over debian for the CB1? Im reading the repository for armbian is abandoned?

bambu should have a poop return program so you can send your waste back and they can recycle it and you get a discount on a new roll

Seems like Qidi is sending out preemptive emails now and offering free heater power board replacements for NA (110V) customers.

Is it a different heater than the Q1 Pro?

Thanks for the tutorial. I have a model that flushes 28g using default settings. When I change the preset to this one, it still says it flushes 28g. Is the reduction in poop not reflected in the flush column? Did you manual weigh it which is why you said it could reduce the poop by almost half?

Comenting on a really old Video, because i don't know if you have a new one, lol. For Tuning we disable, Automatic Flow Calibration before sending the print. What about after we have all the tuning needed, do we send the print with No Flow Calibration or it will be calibrated with the new profile?

They just released Eddy Duo (usb/can) so it can be wired directly into EBB boards

Hi, I follow your procedure and everything works until I reboot the manta. After that the cb1 cannot connect to the mcu until I manually press the reset button on manta... A firmware restart on mainsails does not work, I have to press the button. I have manta 1.1 m8p in my kit

Do you know if those settings also apply to the Bambu Lab A1 ? Thank you!

To access the feature in Bambu Studio go to your filament settings, go to "setting overrides", and choose "long retraction when cut (experimental)" to turn this on without changing gcode. Edit: it seems not ALL filaments have this, I don’t know why. So if you don’t see that setting stick with the gcode option I guess.

Well, spent a whole day troubleshooting the can bus and discovered that mine only works at 250k rather than the 1M like in the video. Even though I have the same Formbot kit ButterPockets has - Manta M8P V1.1 with a BTT SB2209 (RP2040) toolhead board.

Is that a printed wedding band on your hand in the Tool Head section? Really? Oh yeah, the Voron cost more than gold --- I get it! 🙂

Will altering the filament swap g-code work with the “biqu Panda revo” hot end?

I don't care about what you make of what you save just show me how to fucken reduce it

How does the formbot kit compare to fysetc Voron 2.4 r2 pro?

Or is it possible to get some guidance on what I could do to solve this problem?

Could there be incompatibility between a Manta M8P v 2.0 with an H723 processor and a CAN with an 0B1 processor? I’ve been trying this configuration for a while, and it’s not working! Thx for the answer.

mate, you already know im going to be here if there are umbreon is involved

stupid question but do I plug the usb version into the pi or my octopus? thanks for the video!

Has anyone else had in Klipper "mcu 'mcu': Unable to connect" and via SSH $ ls -l /dev/serial/by-id/...... "ls: cannot access '/dev/serial/by-id/': No such file or directory"?

Great video! However - from the front of the printer Left corner is B = X and A = Y.?.? The wiring diagram diagram lists them as X and Y. Voron defines them as A and B as well as the Formbot labeled wires. I have yet to fire up the printer, the wiring is complete. So the previous is somewhat of a question but the M8P setup for can bus helped me understand the Octopus setup with a U2C can adapter. The video helped me comprehend the structure of the can bus setup. Confusion takes over my aging mind more and more. What would make Voron 2.4 even more popular, I believe, is git similar to KIAUH. Only it would be a Software Installation Configurator... just like the machine configurator on the Voron Design site but it would be for electronic hardware and software. configuration Maybe BigTreeTech could develop it with the help of the "esteemed/accomplished" engineer @joetkeshub.... 😜 Happy printing!

Good infor on the A1 I did not know thank you! Thumb up new SUB!

Thank you for the very clear and usefull video. I neverteless encounter a problem I cannot solve, even with ChatGPT 🤣 When I try to flash katapult (in DFU mode) I get the follwing error : dfu-util: Could not open file /home/jacques/Katapult/out/katapult.bin for reading: No such file or directory I erased the katapult directory and reinstalled it, make menuconfig, make clean, make... and there is indeed not katapult.bin but a canboot.bin in the out directory. I tryed to flash using canboot.bin instead of katapult.bin but I the get the error : dfu-util: Could not open file /home/jacques/Katapult/out/canboot.bin for reading: No such file or directory I am flasing a M8P V2.0 with CB2 and I use the parameters for M8P V2.0 found in letstry.science/2023/10/flashing-bigtreetech-manta-m8p-v2.0/ Does anyone has a suggestion ?

This video helped a bunch, and probably not even in the ways you would think. The side comments about temperatures and typical PA values for PLA and the filament soecific commentary is what helped the most. Some things that would help me greatly: 1. Same workflow and commentary on specifics for other materials. Namely ASA and PETG. 2. The various issues and steps you take as you "react" to prints. I don't know if what I'm seeing is a temp issue, cooling issue, speed issue etc. I noticed with PETG that X1C moves faster than it should. How to tune appropriately for speed if the flow cant keep up?

zzzzzzzzz

How do you do a temperature test?

Just found your channel, great content :) Hope you will post more of these videos

My biggest hesitation with 3d printing has been including external parts (screw, magnets etc). I just recently tried to include open face magnets for a stronger bond than embeded and was bummed when the fit was wrong and demoralized to try again. But your vid helped me a lot! I learned offset face (I thought you could only do it in the sketch), snap midpoint (my locator tabs were somehow off-center lol) and I'm actually pretty eager to try the embeded threads you made it so simple. You got my like and subscription thanks for the hope and info!

I bought the Eddy and tried inatalling it on the gatry bracket I bought for the stealth burner and it wont fit with the phaetus rapido hotend installed. Im really bummed out

I just calibrated 4 of my filaments and it was a complete waste of time, all were 0.02 for alignment and 0 for first calibration and 0 for the 2nd. Seem Bambu have their shit turned on with this A1 printer. Edit: all different filaments (pla) as well .

Excellent information. Glad the video got put in my feed. I subscribed

I don't have the intuition you speak of and I've been printing for 5 years. Can you show bad prints and how you would fix them? Please.

Comparison by cost is head-scratching especially sense these are not marketed for those who like to fiddle with maintenance and in-depth settings, i at 67 just want to print n go. I’m sure I could eventually Learn slicer software, modeling software etc, sense I spent years ,way back, on Hash Animation Master modeling and animation. But then again there are 3d scanning tools.

Stop with the "air quotes" 😂

where is the math for the volumetric test. u didnt explain any thing bout it since yours printed fine

Whats that one easy trick?

I need help with Polymaker lite white. I cannot get the layer lines out.

I think it saves 5 mm3 per filament change not 50. Converted to imperial it would roughly flush 2"x2"x2" instead of 1/5"x1/5"x1/5" per change.

But a Temp Tower will help you tune a entirely new Filament if it doesnt print at all so you have some cornerpoints.

Thanks. Your document was a huge help during the build.

after we made the calibration should we unthick flow dynamics calibration?

I got 2 S4’s in their kick starter and they are wonderful driers. Great video!

You "RECHARGE" the silica desiccant. WOW.

Great video... and I can appreciate your subtle delivery of humor. Kudos! 👍🏻 I backed Sunlu's Kickstarter campaign for the S4. I picked up a pair of S4 dryers for basically the price of one retail, today. Both of them have seen pretty steady use, without any problems. I love em!

"Wet Filament Hates This One Easy Trick..." Yeah me pulling out my fucking wallet.

.02 x 10 is .2 not .02 unless me big dumb also wish you showed how to do the negitative values aswell with the formula for the second pass