@@marchingknight11 Not going to create a kickback in this video since nothing is beyond the center of the blade. Its not going to kickback on the blade side pushing down against the surface. At least not when you have a riving knife also. The thin strip can kickback though. For other reasons. Since nothing is pushing it down.
Definitely a strong potential for kickback on the thin unsupported piece of wood between the blade and fence, regardless of where the feather board is. There are jigs that help with cutting thin strips. There might even be a 3d printable version. Rockler makes one and it looks pretty easy to recreate in CAD.
Michael, I echo your thanks to all of those designers who work so hard on creating a model and then releasing it to the public for free. THANK YOU to all those designers, I/we really appreciate your efforts.
The more videos I watch on 3D printing the more I am blown away by what can be done, truly the imagination is the most limiting factor. I must invest in one soon. Thanks for the videos.
@@wematanye533 "budget" is about a billion times better than where 3d printers were a decade ago. Honestly, the only major issue with budget printers(modern, not the ender 3) is you're largely incapable of anything requiring good heat deflection.
Me too. I have a 10 year old printer doing great prints (turnigy fabrikator) even with 150mm/sec. I bought it last month for 10€ lol i also uploaded a short video of it printing. Its only limited by small print surface and volume 150x150x100@@wematanye533 some days ago I bought geetech a10t for 30€ because seller thought it is broken because it didn't home anymore since he replaced Mainboard. He didn't flash the Mainboard with marlin activated bl touch. I configured bltouch in firmware, flashed it and now it works perfectly lol amazing deal
12:52 No. No no. Never rip a thin piece between the fence and the blade. That thin piece is what gets kicked back and the featherboard isn't touching it so it can do nothing to stop it. Put the large part against the fence with the thin offcut on the outside. You may need to make a thin rip first to true up that edge to parallel to the edge against the fence. If you need to repeat thin strips, Print a thin rip jig. There look to be some good ones. (I haven't gotten to them yet but are on my shortlist) 👍
So cringe when he says "...to safely push the plank through" while doing it probably in the most UNSAFE way possible save for doing it bare handed maybe...
Came here to say this. I'm honestly surprised that piece didn't end up putting a hole in the wall, especially with how it was creeping back towards the blade at the end of the clip. I don't want to come off like the safety police but I'd seriously suggest replacing or removing that segment. Because this is a channel full of tutorials and advice, it's not unlikely that someone might copy what they see here and end up seriously hurt.
I use a sacrificial push stick to hold both pieces in place with a board slightly wider than the cut-off clamped to the fence. I've done it this way for forty years and never had a problem.
Thin rips are done thousands of times a day across the world. Yes, a push stick on the thin part is advised- but what force, given there is a riving knife in place, do you think there is to propel the part backwards? Vibration causes the part to jiggle against the blade, but there is little transverse force involved, so little rearward force can be generated. Tests show that the part moves backwards very slowly, as can be seen in this video. So, yes, it should be supported but the risk level is low to very low, because of the combination of little chance and low consequences. There are many more risky events captured on YT- and in this video where was the crown guard? A much more serious omission.
@@critter42 Im a wood worker. You should never use gloves when using a motorised saw. Its a recipe to get your hand caught and loosing more than just a finger
The drill dust guide is good and durable enough to keep in your drill case or bag, but a cheap option is to use an envelope taped to the wall with painters tape or a folded piece of paper. Works great!
But, But, But, But... it's not 3d printed! Seriously though, that tool seems like an over-engineered solution without any additional benefits. I actually know of something similar that comes with a vacuum hose attachment for a portable shop vac. Otherwise a piece of foil and painters tape make way more sense considering you may want to have both hands on a hammer drill.
Ty so much for the mention in your video!! I was pleasantly surprised to find out one of my desings made it to one of your videos!! thanks!! (I'm Bearlord on printables).
3:34 - Turn the calipers around - there is a stick that pops out the back when you use the calipers that lets you measure things like that (as well as the depth of tiny holes, for instance.) You probably already knew that though, and this was just a use-case example for your print 😇
@@HebrewHunter101also if you have digital calipers you can measure travel distance by extending it, zeroing the calipers, pushing the button and checking the value (you can also do it the other way around, the difference between the two is if the distance is shown negative or positive) Another nice trick is the distance between center of holes of the same diameter, use the back to measure the hole size, zero, then still with the back, measure the long distance, it will give you the distance between centers.
Love the video. I'll print a few of those. For future reference, you can use the pokey part than comes out from the end of your calipers to measure depth, like you needed in your lock-blocker project.
Seems like the cable soldering jig still has the core issue: the copper strands are hard to keep 100% parallel, they angle away a bit. My fave tool for this is a metal oval, made of two "clampable" horizontal layers. The wires go in-between the layers. The hole in the center is small and fixes the strands as you want them.
@@TrevorV Imagine (clampable) metal tweezers. On each end is a flat loop (~1/2" sq) with a hole in it. You can clamp two cables, so their exposed strands meet within the hole, where you can solder them. Search for "Splice-It-Easy Soldering Tweezer"
Reality to solder both ends should be splayed then put together and twisted. Then the connection should be soldered. Just sitting 2 braided wires next to each other and connecting them with solder is definitely not the proper way. If you do it properly then the wires stay together and the stand can hold them for easier soldering.
reminded of the cable clamps i made for my housemate to run network cable to the bedrooms of his house (didn't want to drill holes in walls) so i made them clamp to doorways and walls to keep the cables out the way
That radius gauge is potentially very deceptive. Most corners in contemporary industrial design are not radiused (G1 continuity) but rather have at least G2 continuity, if not G3 or G4. The actual change in curvature begins much further back than you'd guess at a glance, and the corner is not actually circular. The reason is so that reflections gracefully flow around the corner instead of abruptly forming a sharp line. But it does mean that if you assume it's a radius, you're going to have gaps in anything you model.
I have that wire soldering jig, my old helping hands have not seen the light of day since I printed it. I like that vise built like a scroll chuck, think I'll do one of them next.
At .075 watching speed is wonderful. So normal!!! At my 64 years old my brain works at that speed besides I am a spanish language native. Thanks from Colombia, very helpful.
just a quick note.. on the table saw, you should have the main body of the board next to the fence, cutting off the small part on the other side of the blade. this is because the thin piece can bow (and often does in natural wood) causing it to press against the blade and then shoot out back at the operator. note for the future. ;-)
Bump for an informative post. The off cut should never be between the blade and the fence. Very dangerous. This does however inspire the design of a 3d printed thin rip jig.
Hey man! Generally love the video, but as a shop teacher of 7 years with no injuries on my record, I feel compelled to point out that you're not using the feather board correctly or cutting thin strips safely. I'm really just concerned for your own safety there, and for the safety of beginners who might follow your instructions. For the feather board, make sure it is in front of the blade. You have it partially to the side of the blade. That will apply pressure through the off cut to the side of the blade, potentially causing binding and kickback. The main problem for the thin strip that you cut is that you left it entirely unsupported and uncontrolled between the moving blade and the fence. You can even see it at the end of the cut, when the thin strip lifts up a little bit and is free to get launched by the spinning blade. This is exactly how kickback occurs. If you need to cut a thin strip like this, the safest way to do it is to not cut the thin strip between the fence and the blade but to make it on the offcut side. It takes more work because you have to move your fence for every cut, but you can use jigs to make sure you're positioning your wood at the right distance each time. If you absolutely do have to or, frankly, just want to cut the thin strip between the blade and the fence, you should absolutely use a sacrificial push stick. That's a push stick or push block that you will have right next to the fence and that you will just cut into. That way your workpiece is constantly supported during its time between the blade and the fence. I recommend making it out of wood rather than plastic so it doesn't shatter on contact with the blade. And then never leave the cut piece floating between the moving blade and the fence like you did in this video. That's one of the most common times for kickback to occur. I highly recommend the sacrificial push block anyway. You tend to get a little more control and you should get better cuts too because you don't have your piece wandering around.
I would recommend my push stick (Dovetail Push Block Handle on printables) instead. It uses a dovetail to attach a sacrificial piece of wood on the bottom, as narrow cuts will cut into your push block and with the one in the video you'd have to reprint the whole thing after a while. You can batch out a bunch of wood blocks at once and have them on hand to quickly swap out when you chew one up to much.
it is not advisable to do a cut as demonstrated around the 13 minute mark. if there is not enough room for a push stick between the fence and the blade you should use a spacer block of wood between the fence and the workpiece to keep the workpiece from being pinched between the fence and the blade. The blade can throw the arrow sized piece of wood back at you with dangerous speed.
Thanks for sharing some of these great ideas. Just a tip on the use of the feather board. Never place it opposite the blade. The feather board should be positioned just in front of the blade so you are not pushing the workpeice into the side of the blade. If you do it will jamb and kickback at you. Dangerous.
Hey Michael, love your work! That alternative version of the helping hands would be great with some Velcro command strips on the back too. Easily removable from your work bench when not needed but holds in place nicely when have to do a lot of repeat soldering
also on that first cut you used the push stick you showed i saw the cut moving back with the blade perhaps you should remove the cut using the pushstick (old as it has longer reach) to prevent it from being shot back ?
Wow I am so honored to be featured in this video (the wood push stick) I literally learned everything I know about Marlin and firmware modifications from you !
I only use helping hands to hold boards, for wires I just use my fingers much like the way that jig works, but that jig seems like a good investment. I'll print one up right away mefinks.
After I switched from Simplify3D to SuperSlicer at your suggestion, it happened that development stopped there too. There has been no new version for almost half a year. In the meantime, both Cura and Prusaslicer came out with the new organic support and a bunch of new features.
Bromo, you've got a Ryobi One+ Soldering Station and One+ Hammer Drill, just get the One+ pin nailer for those wooden drawer inserts. You've also got some One+ LED light! Also, use a cheap chip brush to push the splinters, don't use your hands.
5:30 I wonder if you might benefit from printing an adapter to somehow mount the cable soldering jig to your solder station itself so it doesn't bump around as easily.
There are definitely some useful models there, I use the soldering jig all the time. I love how it lets you hold thick wires and thin resistor leads equally well. I use a thin watery flux, and I'll often place a few drops in the middle of the jig so that I can flux my wire/component and solder away, and keep the mess off the benchtop. My fractal bench dogs (you mentioned my design in your vise video) have been more for novelty than anything else. I just don't find myself needing to clamp irregular objects all that often, or, at least not where 3 points won't do just as well as fractal jaws for holding power. The mechanism is really cool looking though.
At 3:36 you could have used the backside of the caliper. Measure when pin is out, and measure again when pin is in. Subtract and you have the exact needed size.
I want to try the last tool. I work on old model trains. Many times the bodies require repair inside for mounting bosses mostly. But to hold them upside down the steam engine shapes are irregular and hard to clamp but any means. I need to dremel cut away the damage. Vacuum tube?? then define the repair part needed, Radius gauge and screw gauge ?? then I 3D Print the repair part and glue or screw in place after a test fit. I think that larger flexible clamp would be great with some TPU jaws on top. Is that possible???? Dennis
All good, except for the bit with the table saw. You need to provide a downward force on the material between the wood and the fence, or you're going to turn the saw into a rotary slingshot
good vid; the soldering jig has been on my short list for a while. one comment though; if you're seriously considering the corner clamps, have a look at Izzy Swan's corner jig first; it's wooden so no concerns with rigidity, easy to make, and they use wedges so no need for the bar clamps.
I'm currently printing the 4 jaw version of that vice, found it last night while looking at tool collections on printable. I was going to do the 3 jaw version later.
7:55 Not going to lie, I wondered when this would really be necessary, the next day I found a use and plan to print it next. Came back just to say as much.
Instead of having stepped measuring insets (5mm, 10mm, etc) for marking along the edge of the board, create a wedge shape that lies flat on the board (like the stepped insets do, but make a ruler that slopes backward with the wedge (the rule dimensions would have to be stretched to make up for the angle) - run some small teeth down the front edge to lock the pencil tip. This way, you can mark in millimetres/1/16" increments. I need to get a printer...
at 11:30 Why don't just keep thing simple? 1. get a piece of paper. 2. Make simple envelop like paper bag. 3. Tape the envelope below the hole with a wider tape. And when you drill, all the dust will go in the paper bag. 4. After finish remove the bag from the wall and seal it with the same tape from the wall and throw it away. Can't get easier than that. Cheers. :)
The corner clamps - his example looks pretty low stress. I have the steel as well as the Woodpeckers aluminum. Are the 3d printed strong enough to keep a full size assembly (like a kitchen cabinet) square?
Feather board should not be printed out of such flexible material. The ones you buy are much stiffer. They flex a very small angle. This helps them hold the work piece tighter to the fence and also perform their function as an anti-kickback device better. This is a great video, I am surprised how good the printed vices / clamps work, very cool.
Haven't seen no one asking... But what black ruller is that in the beginning of the video? The one you showed for the example of doing cross-section with a ruller
I see others calling it out but I want to reinforce the advice to never have the featherboard pushing your wood into the blade. You needed to move it closer to you. Also do not leave the wood between the blade and fence unsupported, your pushstick should be moving it through the cut. At th-cam.com/video/bktZTYj2ElM/w-d-xo.html you state that the wires are held securely as the wires pop apart from each other. Seems it is not the solution it needs to be yet.
One note here is that you should put a featherboard only before your saw blade, so it won't pinch your cut.
Yes!!! The placement of your feather board here is extremely dangerous and likely to cause kickback
@@marchingknight11 Not going to create a kickback in this video since nothing is beyond the center of the blade. Its not going to kickback on the blade side pushing down against the surface. At least not when you have a riving knife also.
The thin strip can kickback though. For other reasons. Since nothing is pushing it down.
Definitely a strong potential for kickback on the thin unsupported piece of wood between the blade and fence, regardless of where the feather board is. There are jigs that help with cutting thin strips. There might even be a 3d printable version. Rockler makes one and it looks pretty easy to recreate in CAD.
Yep, exactly how he has it in the video. Before the center of the blade.
You also push between the blade and the fence, off-cut should go on the left side of the blade (assuming fence on the right)
Michael, I echo your thanks to all of those designers who work so hard on creating a model and then releasing it to the public for free. THANK YOU to all those designers, I/we really appreciate your efforts.
The more videos I watch on 3D printing the more I am blown away by what can be done, truly the imagination is the most limiting factor. I must invest in one soon. Thanks for the videos.
I just have a budget one and honestly it has been fantastic.
@@wematanye533 "budget" is about a billion times better than where 3d printers were a decade ago. Honestly, the only major issue with budget printers(modern, not the ender 3) is you're largely incapable of anything requiring good heat deflection.
Me too. I have a 10 year old printer doing great prints (turnigy fabrikator) even with 150mm/sec. I bought it last month for 10€ lol i also uploaded a short video of it printing. Its only limited by small print surface and volume 150x150x100@@wematanye533 some days ago I bought geetech a10t for 30€ because seller thought it is broken because it didn't home anymore since he replaced Mainboard. He didn't flash the Mainboard with marlin activated bl touch. I configured bltouch in firmware, flashed it and now it works perfectly lol amazing deal
Great to see that Oscar Piastri Merch! Awesome channel, awesome video, awesome taste in F1 merch :)
12:52 No. No no. Never rip a thin piece between the fence and the blade. That thin piece is what gets kicked back and the featherboard isn't touching it so it can do nothing to stop it. Put the large part against the fence with the thin offcut on the outside. You may need to make a thin rip first to true up that edge to parallel to the edge against the fence. If you need to repeat thin strips, Print a thin rip jig. There look to be some good ones. (I haven't gotten to them yet but are on my shortlist) 👍
So cringe when he says "...to safely push the plank through" while doing it probably in the most UNSAFE way possible save for doing it bare handed maybe...
Came here to say this. I'm honestly surprised that piece didn't end up putting a hole in the wall, especially with how it was creeping back towards the blade at the end of the clip.
I don't want to come off like the safety police but I'd seriously suggest replacing or removing that segment. Because this is a channel full of tutorials and advice, it's not unlikely that someone might copy what they see here and end up seriously hurt.
I use a sacrificial push stick to hold both pieces in place with a board slightly wider than the cut-off clamped to the fence. I've done it this way for forty years and never had a problem.
Thin rips are done thousands of times a day across the world. Yes, a push stick on the thin part is advised- but what force, given there is a riving knife in place, do you think there is to propel the part backwards? Vibration causes the part to jiggle against the blade, but there is little transverse force involved, so little rearward force can be generated. Tests show that the part moves backwards very slowly, as can be seen in this video. So, yes, it should be supported but the risk level is low to very low, because of the combination of little chance and low consequences. There are many more risky events captured on YT- and in this video where was the crown guard? A much more serious omission.
@@critter42 Im a wood worker. You should never use gloves when using a motorised saw. Its a recipe to get your hand caught and loosing more than just a finger
I'm so glad you found my mantis clamp worth including in your list :D Your right that the stand part of the clamp is a real tough problem to solve.
The drill dust guide is good and durable enough to keep in your drill case or bag, but a cheap option is to use an envelope taped to the wall with painters tape or a folded piece of paper. Works great!
Always found a simple sticky note the best and easiest option you also throw it out with the dust it’s collected
But, But, But, But... it's not 3d printed!
Seriously though, that tool seems like an over-engineered solution without any additional benefits. I actually know of something similar that comes with a vacuum hose attachment for a portable shop vac. Otherwise a piece of foil and painters tape make way more sense considering you may want to have both hands on a hammer drill.
@@adamcallaway3762Seems wasteful.
Awesome!
Owning a 3d printer is like owning a lathe. You use it to make more tools for it!
Been there done that and for a cnc mill lol
oh man. i want a lathe so bad.
@@dev-debug CNC router?
Wood lathe or metal lathe,
Just got a wood lathe and interested making tools XD
I literally used a 3d printer to make a cnc to make attachments for other tools....also gonna use that cnc to make another sturdier cnc
that last part should have been the first in the video. i'm always amazed and gratefull at some of these tools released for free. Amazing comunity
The cable soldering jig is genius.
Thanks for sharing this excellent video and information. Especially appreciate you providing sources for each tool.
Ty so much for the mention in your video!! I was pleasantly surprised to find out one of my desings made it to one of your videos!! thanks!! (I'm Bearlord on printables).
3:34 - Turn the calipers around - there is a stick that pops out the back when you use the calipers that lets you measure things like that (as well as the depth of tiny holes, for instance.)
You probably already knew that though, and this was just a use-case example for your print 😇
Dude what. I never realized. Been using my calipers for 4 years. Only just discovered the use of that little leg. Thank you!!!
@@HebrewHunter101also if you have digital calipers you can measure travel distance by extending it, zeroing the calipers, pushing the button and checking the value (you can also do it the other way around, the difference between the two is if the distance is shown negative or positive)
Another nice trick is the distance between center of holes of the same diameter, use the back to measure the hole size, zero, then still with the back, measure the long distance, it will give you the distance between centers.
The same thing applies to the table saw height tool...your calipers are sufficient if you know how to use them.
Idk if there are reliable becuase of the perpendicularity of the hole and calipers but you can get a depth caliper that’s much more reliable
aahahahahahaha )) why you tell'em this secret knowledge
Calipers on the door. Use the piece that comes out the bottom. Push it against the door till it’s the size of the gap.
Another great video, Thanks! A tip on collecting dust from drilling into a wall. A mailing envelope and a piece of painters tape.
some seriously intelligent solutions presented here. just started with 3d printing and just realized that only the imagination is the limit.
I love how meta the 3D printing universe is
Thank you for doing all the hard work of selecting some really useful things out of the ocean offerings
Love the video. I'll print a few of those.
For future reference, you can use the pokey part than comes out from the end of your calipers to measure depth, like you needed in your lock-blocker project.
Been binging your vids all night. Love your channel man. Your expertise is oh so appreciated in the community
oh that fractal vice is genius, that might actually be the most useful tool in this video
Seems like the cable soldering jig still has the core issue: the copper strands are hard to keep 100% parallel, they angle away a bit. My fave tool for this is a metal oval, made of two "clampable" horizontal layers. The wires go in-between the layers. The hole in the center is small and fixes the strands as you want them.
I can't picture what you are referring to "metal oval". Do you happen to have a link?
@@TrevorV Imagine (clampable) metal tweezers. On each end is a flat loop (~1/2" sq) with a hole in it. You can clamp two cables, so their exposed strands meet within the hole, where you can solder them. Search for "Splice-It-Easy Soldering Tweezer"
Reality to solder both ends should be splayed then put together and twisted. Then the connection should be soldered. Just sitting 2 braided wires next to each other and connecting them with solder is definitely not the proper way. If you do it properly then the wires stay together and the stand can hold them for easier soldering.
@@slimjim7411this. Even just twisting them is leagues better than a butt splice lol
So timely. I have a project I'm getting ready to build and the radius gauges are perfect. Thanks
reminded of the cable clamps i made for my housemate to run network cable to the bedrooms of his house (didn't want to drill holes in walls) so i made them clamp to doorways and walls to keep the cables out the way
That radius gauge is potentially very deceptive. Most corners in contemporary industrial design are not radiused (G1 continuity) but rather have at least G2 continuity, if not G3 or G4. The actual change in curvature begins much further back than you'd guess at a glance, and the corner is not actually circular. The reason is so that reflections gracefully flow around the corner instead of abruptly forming a sharp line. But it does mean that if you assume it's a radius, you're going to have gaps in anything you model.
I've definitely noticed that, is there a better type of tool for measuring that type of flowing curvature or not really?
Excellent collection. I see a few future shop projects.
I have that wire soldering jig, my old helping hands have not seen the light of day since I printed it. I like that vise built like a scroll chuck, think I'll do one of them next.
That bit and blade bridge looks very handy!
This is the first time I have seen a three d printer in action. I must say they are very versatile and your imagination is your only limit.
Thank you for sharing, everyone stay safe, happy and healthy
great vid, stopped it halfway to start the print for the mantis clamp, that's too cool!
At .075 watching speed is wonderful. So normal!!! At my 64 years old my brain works at that speed besides I am a spanish language native. Thanks from Colombia, very helpful.
just a quick note.. on the table saw, you should have the main body of the board next to the fence, cutting off the small part on the other side of the blade. this is because the thin piece can bow (and often does in natural wood) causing it to press against the blade and then shoot out back at the operator. note for the future. ;-)
Bump for an informative post.
The off cut should never be between the blade and the fence. Very dangerous.
This does however inspire the design of a 3d printed thin rip jig.
Hey man! Generally love the video, but as a shop teacher of 7 years with no injuries on my record, I feel compelled to point out that you're not using the feather board correctly or cutting thin strips safely. I'm really just concerned for your own safety there, and for the safety of beginners who might follow your instructions. For the feather board, make sure it is in front of the blade. You have it partially to the side of the blade. That will apply pressure through the off cut to the side of the blade, potentially causing binding and kickback. The main problem for the thin strip that you cut is that you left it entirely unsupported and uncontrolled between the moving blade and the fence. You can even see it at the end of the cut, when the thin strip lifts up a little bit and is free to get launched by the spinning blade. This is exactly how kickback occurs. If you need to cut a thin strip like this, the safest way to do it is to not cut the thin strip between the fence and the blade but to make it on the offcut side. It takes more work because you have to move your fence for every cut, but you can use jigs to make sure you're positioning your wood at the right distance each time. If you absolutely do have to or, frankly, just want to cut the thin strip between the blade and the fence, you should absolutely use a sacrificial push stick. That's a push stick or push block that you will have right next to the fence and that you will just cut into. That way your workpiece is constantly supported during its time between the blade and the fence. I recommend making it out of wood rather than plastic so it doesn't shatter on contact with the blade. And then never leave the cut piece floating between the moving blade and the fence like you did in this video. That's one of the most common times for kickback to occur. I highly recommend the sacrificial push block anyway. You tend to get a little more control and you should get better cuts too because you don't have your piece wandering around.
I would recommend my push stick (Dovetail Push Block Handle on printables) instead. It uses a dovetail to attach a sacrificial piece of wood on the bottom, as narrow cuts will cut into your push block and with the one in the video you'd have to reprint the whole thing after a while. You can batch out a bunch of wood blocks at once and have them on hand to quickly swap out when you chew one up to much.
Amazing tools in this one! Will print several of those!
how is it, did you succeed?
I recommend the old western union knot when soldering two ends of wires together.
3D printing is a unique technology, I really enjoy it
This is what I enjoy the most with my 3D printer. Item that help in every day life. I saw a few I’m gonna get crackin on. Cheers
it is not advisable to do a cut as demonstrated around the 13 minute mark. if there is not enough room for a push stick between the fence and the blade you should use a spacer block of wood between the fence and the workpiece to keep the workpiece from being pinched between the fence and the blade. The blade can throw the arrow sized piece of wood back at you with dangerous speed.
I’m a 35 year veteran of the carpentry arts and you’re dead wrong sir.
Fractal Vice amazing idea. I did not know about something like that.
Great video! Extra points for the McLaren shirt👍🏼
It seems as tho the 3D printing community is one of the most generous and open communities out there... I really need to invest in a 3D printer...lol
nice safety by removing kick guard from bench saw. that was very smart.
Just discovered that the bit and blade bridge is decent as a scalp massager
It was the best I've ever seen. I wait for more
Lol I'm no wood fairy, but the way he used his table saw had me rolling.
Bonus 13th item was worth it!
powerful! i love it! thank you!
Great specific video!
Thank you, i have been searching for a similar video for a long time, finally i find it🎉
Thanks for sharing some of these great ideas. Just a tip on the use of the feather board. Never place it opposite the blade. The feather board should be positioned just in front of the blade so you are not pushing the workpeice into the side of the blade. If you do it will jamb and kickback at you. Dangerous.
Hey Michael, love your work! That alternative version of the helping hands would be great with some Velcro command strips on the back too. Easily removable from your work bench when not needed but holds in place nicely when have to do a lot of repeat soldering
Oh that's a really good idea!
Mick, to measure the lock pin on your door latch you use the small extrusion popping out the bottom of your calipers.
also on that first cut you used the push stick you showed i saw the cut moving back with the blade perhaps you should remove the cut using the pushstick (old as it has longer reach) to prevent it from being shot back ?
Really helpful, thanks.
Wow I am so honored to be featured in this video (the wood push stick)
I literally learned everything I know about Marlin and firmware modifications from you !
I only use helping hands to hold boards, for wires I just use my fingers much like the way that jig works, but that jig seems like a good investment. I'll print one up right away mefinks.
The wood whisper has an article called "Cutting Thin Strips at the Table Saw" which covers various options for doing these cuts safely.
13:38, the off cut are getting push back by the table saw blade, would be safe to off the machine to prevent kick back.
Good work! This helped me.
Nice video, thank you for sharing.
After I switched from Simplify3D to SuperSlicer at your suggestion, it happened that development stopped there too. There has been no new version for almost half a year. In the meantime, both Cura and Prusaslicer came out with the new organic support and a bunch of new features.
I'm in a similar spot, if ss doesn't get updated in a few months, I'll just go to prusaslicer
Bromo, you've got a Ryobi One+ Soldering Station and One+ Hammer Drill, just get the One+ pin nailer for those wooden drawer inserts. You've also got some One+ LED light! Also, use a cheap chip brush to push the splinters, don't use your hands.
gotta love the Oscar Piastri shirt
5:30 I wonder if you might benefit from printing an adapter to somehow mount the cable soldering jig to your solder station itself so it doesn't bump around as easily.
There's a drywall dust catcher that screws onto a standard sized empty water bottle. That's my goto for dusty drywall drilling.
There are definitely some useful models there, I use the soldering jig all the time. I love how it lets you hold thick wires and thin resistor leads equally well. I use a thin watery flux, and I'll often place a few drops in the middle of the jig so that I can flux my wire/component and solder away, and keep the mess off the benchtop.
My fractal bench dogs (you mentioned my design in your vise video) have been more for novelty than anything else. I just don't find myself needing to clamp irregular objects all that often, or, at least not where 3 points won't do just as well as fractal jaws for holding power. The mechanism is really cool looking though.
Dam, these are all pretty handy ngl
At 3:36 you could have used the backside of the caliper. Measure when pin is out, and measure again when pin is in. Subtract and you have the exact needed size.
Measure against what? You still can't get close enough to get an accurate measurement.
Thanks for these tools!
great as always
Awesome. These will be good for out Makerspace!
11:33 Maybe add a few layers of TPU to help seal against the wall?
hahaaah you actually got the Piastry shirt like you said 12 days ago! Looks great!
5:48 nah, doesn't care if it is not working, magic video editing to help!
5:20 That's one of the first things I ever printed when I got my first printer about 4 years ago. I still use that same print all the time.
I want to try the last tool. I work on old model trains. Many times the bodies require repair inside for mounting bosses mostly. But to hold them upside down the steam engine shapes are irregular and hard to clamp but any means. I need to dremel cut away the damage. Vacuum tube?? then define the repair part needed, Radius gauge and screw gauge ?? then I 3D Print the repair part and glue or screw in place after a test fit. I think that larger flexible clamp would be great with some TPU jaws on top. Is that possible???? Dennis
All good, except for the bit with the table saw. You need to provide a downward force on the material between the wood and the fence, or you're going to turn the saw into a rotary slingshot
Great Video! thank you!
Video out of synch if you didn’t know already. Loved the tool choices!!
good vid; the soldering jig has been on my short list for a while. one comment though; if you're seriously considering the corner clamps, have a look at Izzy Swan's corner jig first; it's wooden so no concerns with rigidity, easy to make, and they use wedges so no need for the bar clamps.
Another great video! 👍
5:46 Why don't you twist the wires together before soldering?
I would suggest gluing aluminum foil to the bottom of the cable holder so the molten solder doesn't melt through. Good video overall
I'm currently printing the 4 jaw version of that vice, found it last night while looking at tool collections on printable. I was going to do the 3 jaw version later.
#1: It's cute. But, you can use your calipers to scribe a line. Or, use a speed square.
7:55 Not going to lie, I wondered when this would really be necessary, the next day I found a use and plan to print it next. Came back just to say as much.
Hi, what were the additional holes on the first tool for?
For placement of the guides on 'smaller' work pieces. ie. dowels or 1/4 rounds.
3:36 use top of your calipers to measure, or bottom spike :D
Instead of having stepped measuring insets (5mm, 10mm, etc) for marking along the edge of the board, create a wedge shape that lies flat on the board (like the stepped insets do, but make a ruler that slopes backward with the wedge (the rule dimensions would have to be stretched to make up for the angle) - run some small teeth down the front edge to lock the pencil tip. This way, you can mark in millimetres/1/16" increments. I need to get a printer...
at 11:30 Why don't just keep thing simple? 1. get a piece of paper. 2. Make simple envelop like paper bag. 3. Tape the envelope below the hole with a wider tape. And when you drill, all the dust will go in the paper bag. 4. After finish remove the bag from the wall and seal it with the same tape from the wall and throw it away. Can't get easier than that. Cheers. :)
excellent video. great models!
The corner clamps - his example looks pretty low stress. I have the steel as well as the Woodpeckers aluminum. Are the 3d printed strong enough to keep a full size assembly (like a kitchen cabinet) square?
@3:45 use the other end of the calipers.
Feather board should not be printed out of such flexible material. The ones you buy are much stiffer. They flex a very small angle. This helps them hold the work piece tighter to the fence and also perform their function as an anti-kickback device better. This is a great video, I am surprised how good the printed vices / clamps work, very cool.
Haven't seen no one asking... But what black ruller is that in the beginning of the video? The one you showed for the example of doing cross-section with a ruller
I see others calling it out but I want to reinforce the advice to never have the featherboard pushing your wood into the blade. You needed to move it closer to you.
Also do not leave the wood between the blade and fence unsupported, your pushstick should be moving it through the cut.
At th-cam.com/video/bktZTYj2ElM/w-d-xo.html you state that the wires are held securely as the wires pop apart from each other. Seems it is not the solution it needs to be yet.
Great video as usual, thanks