Marlin Input Shaping - Step by step guide to more speed and less ringing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 เม.ย. 2024
- Input shaping allows faster 3D printing speed and acceleration, without a loss in quality. Available in most other firmwares, input shaping is now available in Marlin. In this video guide, we cover the setup and calibration process step by step on an Ender 3.
I’m really pleased with these results. Any time you can speed up 3D printing without losing quality, it’s a huge win. I look forward to playing with the new parameters when they are added in the future.
0:00 Introduction
0:35 What is input shaping?
Klipper reference: www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_C...
RRF reference: docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/T...
Bambu Lab page: bambulab.com/en/x1
2:15 Migrating to Marlin 2.1
Marlin 2.1.2 release notes: github.com/MarlinFirmware/Mar...
Connecting via terminal guide: teachingtechyt.github.io/trou...
Updating Marlin firmware / GitHub Desktop guide: • Master your 3D printer...
Marlin firmware editing guide: • Updated Marlin firmwar...
4:58 Baseline Testing
Speed and max flow test: teachingtechyt.github.io/cali...
Acceleration test: teachingtechyt.github.io/cali...
6:22 Marlin firmware changes
7:47 Calibration test print
Marlin M593 reference with instructions: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M593....
Slicer variables and conditional gcode video: • Get more from your sli...
9:59 Measuring, calculating and storing the input shaping values
Digital calipers on Amazon : amzn.to/3Bu6yjN
12:07 Comparison testing
Corner clamp: www.printables.com/model/3993...
13:54 Limitations, additional and future parameters
15:42 Conclusion
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After going over this myself and having to troubleshoot many hours, here's 2 important points i wish i heard when i started:
-If you are generating a ringing test that does not induce ringing, check the speed (which you should always do anyways btw), because many slicers have a minimum layer time threshold, which if left on can be overriding your set external perimeter speed and can be quite frustrating to find what is capping it.
-You actually CAN insert the input shaping command in Cura, using the "Insert at Layer Change" Script from the Post Processing Plugin, it makes it so much easier not having to start profiles from the ground up in a new slicer. I wish that could be added to the description of the video so the many Cura users that might want to implement this can skip some headaches as well.
Great video as well.
How to use "Insert at Layer Change" to perform this test? Isn't it fixed (same gcode applied every layer change)?
Great tip on checking minimum layer time. In PrusiaSlicer it can be found in: Filament Settings -> Cooling -> Slow down if layer print time is below:
Thanks a lot i would have spend the same time too without your comment
Remember e.g. on i3 style machines, if you have your spool holder mounted on top of the frame, your resonance frequency (especially y-axis) changes with decreasing mass (weight) on the spool and increasing mass of an ongoing print.
Better to choose a value for y slightly higher than calculated to.compensate for these effects.
Wow, I flashed new firmware this morning and just now sat down to start calibrating. Perfect timing and thank you.
Thanks for all that detailed video on input shaping. I even ordered and received the new input shaping drivers. I live in eastern US and couldn't believe it only took 3 days to get them. Haven't tried them yet as I'm still going through the calibration routines for my filaments. I've been riveted to my printer after seeing the latest calibration video.
I'm a fellow Aussie that is just getting into 3D printing. Can I just say that your channel has been very useful so far! Thank you for sharing your passion and knowledge!
I print on my ender 3v2 with 2500 acceleration without input shaping and it looks better...
Wow, I had no idea Marlin supports Input Shaping, spent all night reconfiguring it for my printer, got it working already, now time to calibrate the values :) I'm having so much fun thanks to you
Upgrading my Powerspec Ultra3D to Marlin 2.1.2, excited to try this out! Thanks for the exhaustive video covering all the bases!
Thank you Michael. At the end it may also be advisable to go back and set the X and Y frequencies in Configuration_adv.h and rebuild (again!). These frequencies bake in the minimum shaping frequencies that Marlin can do without sometimes having to back off the input shaping effect. Alternatively if you have tons of RAM just pick low frequencies at the outset or use SHAPING_MIN_FREQ. (Under the covers this is all affecting the size of a buffer that is allocated at compile time. Which is why it so directly affects SRAM usage.)
Before looking at input shaping pay attention to frame rigidity and belt tension. If you have a bed slinger a brace for the tower makes a huge difference. For instance I'm resurrecting an early Tenlog D3, a very generic idex bed slinger. Before I started it had terrible ringing even at 50mm/s, 500 acceleration. With tower braces made from two 8mm carbon tubes, the Y axis driver replaced with a TMC2209(more on order for the other axes) and klipper installed I'm getting virtually perfect 35 minute PETG benchies using 100mm/s and 7000 acceleration with a small amount of input shaping. Admittedly I do drop the outer wall speed to 75mm/s, 3000 accel. 7000 accel still leaves a bit of ringing.
I've been waiting for this video.
I've been waiting for you to comment on waiting for this video.
@@user-ht2kn9jh9s the ⁶7
I've been waiting for you to comment on waiting for this comment about waiting for this video.
I have a Biqu B1 and compiled Marlin 2.1.2 with Input Shapeing and Lin Advance enabled and after calibration I am happy to get 30%-50% more speed in my printings. Best free upgrade
Fantastic! Thanks, Michael!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
All the yes Micheal! Thank you for posting this!
Pretty excited, now to spend some more time on my ender... 🤤
Thank you - great explanation. You really have a knack for this 😊
At last, someone has actually made this video. Been wanting to turn on Input Shaping since I heard it became a feature of Marlin, but not had balls to change my workhorse printers.
Super awesome video! I am very excited to do this! Now I just need to dedicate a full Saturday to this task. I am still running original firmware on my CR-10 Max. I bought the BIQU H2 extruder, but I still need to install that as well.
The comments tip is so ridiculously simple, but after just customizing my Marlin recently, I wish I had done that!
Bro. Awesome! Great coverage of this!
You're the best thanks for all the good content you brings.
The best input shaping tutorial!
Great vid to watch while I wait for things to print
Works very well. Been using it for a month and have retuned twice. So far so good with a noticeable improvement in print quality vs speed. Used in combination with linear(pressure) advance and classic jerk. Found junction deviation and s-curve a waste of time with loss of quality and bulgy corners.
S-curve gives terrible quality on a bowden. I run my ender 3v2 with a marlin variant, all motion is basic and i have very subtle ringing with 2000 acceleration. Not sure what he is doing wrong, but that ringing looks excessive. Maybe it's the sturdy table. I made the bed way lighter and the whole printer is mounted on a tile that sits on a sheet of PU foam.
@@dtibor5903 Try running input shaper anyway. You might be surprised!
@@whoguy4231 Since switching to a new motherboard, I have been creating my own firmware file using sample configuration files. I was very surprised when I turned off the junction deviation and s-curve nonsenses and went back to classic jerk. Linear advance worked perfectly without these two.
Great and usefull, thanks for sharing :) 👍
Love the channel. New to 3D printing so most of this is over my head. I’ve done a fair amount of manual machining and have built PCs but software/code mods are something I’m way behind on!
Will be doing this to my E3v2 this rainy weekend
Thank you Michael. I was hoping for this one :)
Awesome update for Marlin users!
Great videos as always. I like to test new feature so, this is next.. thanks.
I've been using Klipper to have input shaping, but now wondering if I should try out Marlin once again. Thanks for the guide!
Gracias por compartir tu experiencia y conocimientos. Definitivamente voy a probarlo!
What made it a bit more practical to me was to copy the eeprom settings directly to the Marlin source code and enable the setting to automatically initialize eeprom when flashing. This simply too this annoying part out my head space so I don't think about it anymore whenever I reflash the firmware. No more forgetting to to adjust that one setting... The only two things I do again after flashing are Z probe offset and UBL mesh wizards. The offset wizard and UBL made me never have leveling issues again. Got rid of the springs and been happy ever after. Unfortunately those are not enabled by default, so I doubt a lot of people use these. Also discovered a code that loads mesh data after auto home, so no need to run auto leveling on every print anymore, so they start faster than ever.
Meld merge is a great tool for seeing differences in files, or in whole git repositories.
Winmerge work great also on Windows 😉
Sounds interessting, thank you.
This is just what I needed!
i added it pretty much as soon as the 2.1.2 dropped, and its been a blast, im currently printing at around 250mm/s and 3.5-4k accel, jd of 0.15 and jerk of 20, and it looks amazing, my board is an skr 1.4 and i also have a tft 35 v2.0
Hello, where did you connect the ADXL sensor... do you have a picture for me... THANK YOU... I have the SKR 1.4 turbo
@@majo8526 you don't do it, the calibration is manual for now
I thought you used Junction Deviation OR Jerk. WWhat sort of machine are you running is it a coreXY?
@@Festivejelly I started with JD but went back to jerk, in my application wasn't working very well, it's a normal bed slinger and I have a few speedbenchys runs on my channel
Thanks for yuor work, now im gone put this to work😊
Incredible video I don't understand a single word of it But it sounds great lol.Ill just wait until input shaping becomes more main stream
Hey Michael , Great vid as always , but @ 10:42 you measure X being 19mm and Y being 16.3mm , However you apply them in reverse @ 11:07 in the Video , Swap them and do a reprint !! :-) ,
Yeah, I noticed that too.
Great stuff! Thanks!!
Great clear video as usual. I will be trying this out on the "ringiest" printer I have which is my most modded and workhorse original CR-10 due to its large bed size when I get a chance. The attractiveness is the increase in print speed for large models which will really scale down the print time.
It's not clear for beginners.
@@TheRattleSnake3145 c'mon man, if you already configured the firmware, the hardest part is done, uncomment input shaping and you are done for calibration
Klipper is still much better, we love it not only for input shaping:)
Im using the Software Meld for such comparisons...its really helpful for such kinds of jobs
i also was able to do the overhang torcher test. set up an auxiliary fan on the gantry sorta how bambu has the aux fan on the wall this one is on the gantry tho. i was amazed at the print quality of the ender 3 pro
Excellent!
Thank you!
I already got my cr10 v3 moving fast. Now imma get it really moving 😆
Great, thanks!
Using "meld" on Linux or in vs-code can select two files and right click and select compare to get easier ways to compare old and new config, just went through it here two or three times because needed bugfix version for the skr 1.3 but going to follow the vid now if can use input shaping.
THANK YOU
Great ! Now it would be great to compare the results of "Imput Shaping " on Klipper and Cura...
Great Video!!👌 What is that glaring pink filament you are using? Need that
This video just saved me the money I'd spend on an accelerometer and the need to change to an unfamiliar firmware in my quest for speed. Awesome video
This is great! Can you please do a video on Marlin Input shaper for Flsun Deltas?
nice print for ender 3) my ender have grea vfa.
when I pause TH-cam to read your title text, like at 1:11 the youtube controls block the text. Otherwise thank you SO MUCH for this video. Cheers!
Input shaping can get you way more than 30% faster. Print time scales with sqrt of acceleration, but you can easily get 10x the acceleration on all non-outer-perimeter extrusions, for more than triple speed on them.
Great video as always thank you! Please please a request for a video on BTT Manta M8P board: connections and setup for Voron2.4? I'm battling, and there is very little info available for this. :-(
Great videos! Thank you for the tips. I have 2 questions.
1. Does the input shaping works even when you use a host to print (like octoprint over usb)?
2. Can you transfer the input shape values from Klipper to Marlin on the same printer?
1. Yes it will work with SD card prints or Octoprint.
Input shaping is a live smoothing algorithm. It will work regardless of how the MCU receives its gcode as it applies the counter frequency to the stepper movements.
2. Yes, the value is just of the printer's resonance frequency. How you arrive at that resonance is irrelevant. Provided that your tested and verified values from klipper (or reprap) are using ZV algorithm they should carry over perfectly.
Of note, EI works better in my experience for beg slingers than ZV due to it being able to handle the more frequency changes caused by the moving bed. So if you have Klipper aand are using EI or 2HEI, you will likely notice a decline in quality if you step back to Marlin. ZV is just easier to calculate than any of the other algorithms, which is good for the common Marlin boards on the market and their lower processing power.
@@zacharywelvaert2235 thank you
Great video, I got it now after watching it for the second time 😂 but one question, will this work with ender neo?
Thanks for the video. I came up with the comment flagging technique on my own, like a monkey at a typewriter who after millenia of pecking writes Hamlet. Using a (unique ideally) signature after // wherever anything is changed was the best way to keep track of my own changes as I am so disorganised and the systems of naming and quirks of Marlin (which seem at the same time arbitrary and intentionally cryptic) don't help.
thanks!
Goodluck to any beginners wanting to try this.
Hi, Great video for its time since things move so fast. You couldnt point me in the right direction as I cant seem to find any Info On Automatic Resonance tuning for The BTT EBB42 setup..Lost have how to setup the canbus like you did but not anything of the Extra MCU setup for the Accelerometer connection setup. Klipper only has the USB or the Pi connection etc..??? Les
Love the clip of the polish hen! is it yours?
@Teaching Tech tip using VSCode: Open the original Configuration.h and your Configuration.h and then press CTRL + SHIFT + P, select Compare With and choose the desired file. Boom.
I updated to 2.1.2 today with help from your video.
Now.... Why doesn't anyone seem to publish a marking guide so we can know what these newer features do?
For instance, I didn't know how to use the marlin bed leveling until you mentioned it.
So... any thoughts ?
inb4 watching the video, please please please do a duet guide for this topic!!!! thank you in advance!
Can you use the backlash compensation with the input shaping? I noticed that in the adv file too but not sure if it is needed... Also, should i turn off adaptive step smoothing? my motors are very noisy when I adjust linear advanced values, so i dont know what is causing it. I disabled s curve but not sure what else i need to disable.
Nice video. Is input shaping from marlin compatible with all printers? and how much ram/flash usage is too much when compiling?
It can work even on AVR boards, but it does require a bit of RAM. The RAM is allocated at compile-time so the compiler can tell you if it has run out of RAM, and then you can tune the shaper settings to try to reduce RAM usage.
FYI if no one has already commented on this. Disable Octolapse! It was causing pausing in my extrusion path. I thought it was an sd card issue but it was just maybe to much for the RPI3 to handle.
Geat explanation, any chance you could review input shaping in RepRap firmaware?
Thank you for the video and I know these steps make sense for most of the people but I couldn't follow. Can't you show more of the steps with small examples instead of referring to previous videos, because the firmwares, folders and steps are different now. Still, huge fan of your work.
Yea, I doubt someone new to this could follow it.
can I update marlin on my FLSUN SUPER RACER to ad input shaper????
the timing is just right, still amazed how firmware updates really improve 3D printing generally
Great update, but only for those who know how to compile firmware. I'll have to wait for a bin file that offers this for an easy upgrade to my printer. 'll also wait for hardware support. I'm not into fiddling with code, but this is how it always starts, so I am grateful to all those who do this for the love of printing.
No ones gonna force you but compiling marlin can barely be considered writing code, for the most part all it is is going through a single file and adding values in fields or deleting comments. It has the same complexity as editing an excel spreadsheet in reality. Ive compiled marlin many times in the past and not once have i had to actually write any "code" per se
@Jake England It is probably more the compiling itself or installing an IDE (probably visual studio is the only real choice here?) and then flashing it onto the hardware that would be more of a daunting task
@@MartinDerTolle agreed but at the same time theres also an extension for VS code now that makes it super easy to flash marlin. Anyhow klipper is still by far the easiest of the 2 firmwares to install.
It's not code it's configuration. The difference here is to embed values in the code rather than read from a config file.
I haven't tried it yet but the latest precompiled version of Mriscoc's (Ender3 V2/S1 Professional Firmware 20221222) says in the first line of the whats new section "Support for Input Shaping in the Special Configuration repository"
Rather than doing an M503 so you can manually re-add all those settings back after a reset, apply them all in the firmware. You potentially save a TON of time if that data is ever lost!
Hey teaching tech, great video as always!
I'm currently following throught it and doing your speed and max flow tuning test, and got up to 480 (i don't know how its even going up there, as there doesn't seem to even be any change in quality from 100 to 480). I did multiples tests, upping the feedrate to +20 per ''floor'', and so did 4 tests so far. My resulting prints don't even look like yours; it's all smooth, no over extrusion or ''fuzzy skin'' like yours show in the video at @5:36 . So i'm wondering if it could be my Marlin firmware limiting me, hence i jumped into the g-code of this. I then modified my M201, M203 and M204 like so :
M201 X8000.00 Y8000.00 Z100.00 E5000.00
M203 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z10.00 E100.00
M204 P4000.00 R1000.00 T2000.00
My printer is an Ender 5 Pro. with SkrTree E3 v3 motherboard, bltouch, and modified hotend with 2 5015 fans blowing on the hotend for part cooling.
I was wondering if you (or anyone reading this) would know if there was something limiting my printer in the speed department, hence why all the test looks the same (and are ''too'' perfect compared to yours).
Looking forward to an answer! Thank you :)
Hi, tanks for this video! Does this features works on 8 bits board, due of memory use ? On a CR10S Pro V1 for example..
do you have to change the TFT firmware on the Sidewinder X1 in addition to the Configuration_adv.h in order to activate the shaping menu?
hi, why should you rotate the tower for corexy 90 degrees? sure that it is better like this?
Is there a way we can hook out printer to the internet and allow a smart Guy like you log in and super tune the Firmware while guiding the user/me on hardware install to support such updates Like Active Resonance Compensation ARC sounds great it says exactly what it going to do. I have had 4 Cars Motor controller tuned this way and several PC tune ups this way can we do it with the 3D Printer?????/ Dennis
I came here to upgrade my marlin firmware, but I am thinking that this is just so much work everytime that it may be better to just switch to klipper firmware.
Hopefully Jyers comes out with a firmware version of this... that would be nice (if they haven't already)
Jyers has not updated a single thing in the git since middle of 2022, Im not even sure he plans to do any updates in the future.
mriscoc professional firmware seems to be the forward moving successor to Jyers and they have released the version with Input Shaping
Just wondering if the same method is used for calibrating Delta printers.
Sick chicken!
Where did you get the bird ?..... Chicken? That was really funny!!!
Time: 1:38
Quick question, couldn't this be fixed in the slicer? If you could enter ringing frequencies into the slicer, it could generate the movements required to offset it.
I tried it and I set 3k acc and 120mms but for small prints I'm trying out 80mms 2k acc I'm able to print really small now even with the 0.4 nozzle.
@Michael/Teaching Tech: Can you tell me, if this makes the GH Enterprise Steppers obsolete? (You made a Video on those approx. 3 Month ago)
i would say maybe. the GH stepper drivers do the calculations themselves, so it offloads any burden from the mainboard. so the slow downs in the menus he showed in this video will not happen with the GH drivers
small question ... where does the Adxl sensor come from with the SKR 1.4 turbo, for example thanks for an explanation
It's for Klipper not marlin
Could you explain the logic behind rotating the ringing tower by 45 degrees if the system is coreXY? I thought that the vibration frequencies depend on the weight/mass that is moved per the X and Y axis, not because of motor pulley+belt elasticity. Or is it both? Can the algorithms counter ringing due to belt elasticity? I have not seen before the recommendation for 45 degree rotation for coreXY systems.
Not sure about this, but my guess is it's because of the way they are adjusting the setting per motor. CoreXY's use both motors when travelling in X or Y so the test wouldn't isolate each motor if the part was set to 0 degrees.
@Bubo Bubobubo haha. Beat me to it.
@Bubo Bubobubo Thank you for the answer. The thing is the physical system on a coreXY still has differences in weight on the X and Y axis because of the gantry. In a coreXY setup the mass moving along the X is still less than the mass moving along the Y axis. Along the X axis the toolhead is moving only and along the Y axis the toolhead plus the X crossbeam are moving together. I do know that in order to move only in X and/or only in Y, both motors are engaged. As Michael says later on in the video for when to recalibrate input shaper, the third reason is change in weight. Thus this applies for a coreXY system as well, for example changing the X cross beam from an aluminium profile to a carbon fiber beam or going from 2 MGN9 rails to a single MGN12 rail (Voron 2.4 vs Voron 2.4R2 spec). So I am not sure I understand how motor engagement is linked to the vibrations. Maybe it is belt elasticity and that is why the second reason to recalibrate input shaper is belt tension, but still in that case I don't understand how the vibration algorithm is linked to the motor pulley + belt tension and can counter/compensate for that. If it is a difference in belt tension, then I would think that the fix is to make the belt tension even for A and B motors, not calibrate input shaping to overcome ringing artifacts due to bad belt tension.
@@Dramaican88 I think the point is that even though resonances will have all sorts of "vectors" in their effect on the printer, the calibration is about what compensation to apply to each motor in order to try to cancel it out. So it makes sense to take measurements that align with each motor's axis of movement, so you can optimise the correction accordingly. Resonances that contribute to both axes will be proportionately corrected by each. Since the correction can only be applied to a movement direction it makes sense to measure and correct on that same direction. Measuring it otherwise would add a heap of transform complication which would at best reach the same result. I'm talking only from gut theory and not actual experience with testing or the implementation of the tuning method, so take with appropriate volumes of salt 🙂
its because in core xy printers every movment is a compinaion of the 2 motors, except for straight 45º movments
Can you do a creality sonic pad on a original ender 3 not on a v1 one with the sd card is down bottom case. Then zhow with a bltouch on the sonic pad.
Michael,
I have watched this video 6 times. I have upgraded my firmware. I followed your instructions on the changes to the firmware to enable input shaping. I followed your instructions for slicer settings, and I have runt 4 of the test parts. I cannot see any difference in the finished parts looking at them in all lights, angles, etc.
I have an Ender 3 with direct drive and a BTT mini 3 v3. If you or anyone else has any suggestions as to what I am doing wrong I would really appreciate it.
Thanks, I always watch your videos and have used a lot that I have learned from them. I really expected good things from this one. The only thing I can think is that is that I am doing something wrong.
I have the same problem. Ran multiple prints and don't see any discernable difference in the prints.
I kind of had the same problem with my heavy CoreXY printer, but it turned out that the default damping value of 0.15 was actually too high for the heavy oscillations I was experiencing. See my longer comment I posted under the video just now, but here's the TL;DR:
Use the manual method for calculating the resonance frequency as presented in the Klipper documentation for resonance compensation. Then set those frequencies up for input shaping using the M593 command. Then slice the ringing tower, but instead use the following post processing command at layer changes:
M593 D{(layer_num < 2 ? 0 : 0 + 1.0 * (layer_num - 2) / 297)} ; Damping Input Shaping Test
Then you will get a tower that ramps up the damping factor on both axes from 0.0 to 1.0. Then you may see the appropriate damping factors to set up with the M593 command - in my case it turned out to be 0.0!
So, the damping factor is important! Hopefully now you may get better results.
Oh, right - and after those tests it is wise to then rerun the 15-60Hz test print to really fine tune the resonance frequency.
I only have matte filament, but I noticed if you shine a flashlight just right along the surface you can see the ringing easily. Unfortunately... it doesn't really seem like this helps much at all for me. The whole surface has nearly the exact same ringing pattern all over it. There does seem to be some marginal differences but it doesn't look good anywhere.
IS there a way to translate the input shaping command that goes after layer change to use in Simplify3D?
I have a couple of questions. First, will any 32-bit board work? I have the BTT skr 1.4 turbo, it's 32-bit but it is a few years old now. Would this board work or is it too slow for input shaping? Also, I know this is a big ask, but is there any chance of this calibration technique being integrated into your 3d printer calibration site?
With btt skr mini e3 v2 it work like wonders. Since you have 32 bit board, it should work. None of 32 bit boards are slow for marlin😀😀.. Please don't forget to update the marlin version to newest before printing the test model. disable s-curve and junction deviation and use classic jerk while compiling new frimware.
I've never tried to make my ender 5 print faster. I tried printing this ringing tower and change all the settings in the slicer like in this video. It didn't work cause it still only printed at the default ender 5 print speed (I guess it's around 40-45mm/s, obviously that didn't cause any ringing). Must be some setting I didn't change that the video didn't mention. (EDIT, Found the problem, was "auto cooling" in filament settings.
Recently bought a Bambu X1 Carbon, so I thought I'd speed up my ender 5 a bit so it doesn't seem as pathetically slow in comparison.
Hmm, when I change the profile to "normal speed" instead of the one where I increased the speed it actually prints faster (checking the Gcode, the G1 FXXXX number is much higher). I can't find the setting that somehow cripples the speed.
You just saved me so much headache I was wondering why the printer kept slowing down after the first layer (where the fan is off) thank you!
My only question before setting out would be whether I need something extra for the screen of the ender 3V2, I have the neo. I recall there being a difference when I downloaded Jyers firmware.
mriscoc has input shaping enabled on his firmware for the 3V2. Jyers hasnt updated since mid 2022
@@zacharywelvaert2235 excellent I will look there
Check what screen model you have by pulling the back off it. If it's a Dacai screen you copy the private folder to the sd card from the configuration options in the marlin software. I just used the file from the ender 3 v2 for my v2 neo. I have input shaper working as in this video but for some reason it's only about 30% effective.
With my Dacai screen I've found the marlin menu the best. I had a few odd things show up using the creality menu.
please do a klipper vs marlin input shaping
I hope no chickens were harmed in the making of this video