Klipper input shaping - A leap forward in high speed AND high quality 3D printing [Rat Rig part 4]
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 พ.ค. 2024
- I’ve wanted to build a top shelf 3D printer kit for a while, and now I present part 4 of the Rat Rig V-core 3 series. In this video we try out input shaping using an accelerometer, which was my primary motivation for building this machine. It didn’t disappoint and in my opinion represents a major step forward for 3D printing.
In this fourth episode, we also cover questions and comments from part 3, basic calibration, pressure advance and high speed test prints.
Next episode will see the fitment of the higher flow Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum and a bunch of experimentation in trying to print a 3Dbenchy as fast as possible for the #speedboatrace challenge. We'll also add up the final cost of the build.
This kit was purchased with my own money, apart from the shipping which was provided free of charge by Rat Rig. All opinions expressed are my own.
Order the Rat Rig V-core 3: www.ratrig.com/3d-printing-cn...
0:00 Introduction
Rat Rig V-core 3 build playlist: • Rat Rig V-core 3 build
0:53 Questions from the last episode
Ender 5 playlist: • Ender 5
Rat Rig Facebook group: / ratrig3dprintercommunity
1:49 Custom parts
Previous video on 5V USB car adaptors to power Pis: • Using cheap car parts ...
My custom/remixed Rat Rig parts: www.thingiverse.com/thing:487...
3030 extrusion clips: www.thingiverse.com/thing:599556
Klipper custom output pin (LED running on heater 2/ PB0) : www.klipper3d.org/Config_Refe...
Klipper delayed gcode (automatically turn on LED): www.klipper3d.org/Config_Refe...
Timelapse tutorial for Mainsail/Fluidd by Vez3D: • Video
4:01 Basic calibration
Calibration website video: • 3D printer calibration...
Free calibration website: teachingtechyt.github.io/cali...
5:06 Pressure advance tuning
Video on Marlin’s linear advance: • Linear advance guide -...
Klipper pressure advance tuning page: www.klipper3d.org/Pressure_Ad...
7:41 Input shaping - What is it?
Duet experimental accelerometer support: duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Accele...
RRF upcoming input shaping support: github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmw...
9:30 Input shaping baseline - Resonance tuning tower
Klipper resonance compensation tuning page: www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_C...
11:52 ADXL345 accelerometer: What is it? Wiring and firmware setup
Accelerometer wiki page: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acceler...
Purchase the Adafruit ADXL345 on Amazon: amzn.to/3vi4Jj3
Oranginator's ADXL345 shroud mount: contrib.eva-3d.page/accelerom...
My remixed version to suit the Adafruit ADXL345 (19mm spacing): www.thingiverse.com/thing:487...
Rat Rig electronics page for ADXL345 wiring: v-core.ratrig.com/electronics...
Klipper measuring resonances page (including ADXL345): www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_R...
13:36 Automatic input shaping calculation with accelerometer
Klipper measuring resonances page (including ADXL345): www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_R...
17:16 Test prints with pressure advance and input shaping enabled
X3D Pro Diamond PLA: x3d.com.au/products/x3d-pro-d...
3D Benchy: www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622
Blink fox: www.myminifactory.com/object/...
Willys Jeep: fab365.net/items/199
19:38 Conclusion - More questions answered
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Get Quality Resins from 3D Printers Online. 5% off storewide for Teaching Tech subscribers [Code: tech5]
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Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech
If someone is new to Klipper (or RRF for that matter), please notice how Michael repeats "just save and restart" - there's no firmware flashing to change those rather complex settings.
Good to know. I'm switching to Klipper to try this. Never used it before.
That's probably enough to get me to eventually switch to Klipper
Hi, Pawel... I love Klipper, but have my Lerdge here too... heheheheheh Neither save and restart... Just mark in th screen and it's working!
sweet.. i'm always annoyed by the need to reflash after each fundamental config. Repetier has an extensive EEPROM, but still don't cover everything (also 8bit).
@@Apophis-en9pi literally the only reason i switched and then I learned to love the different functions even more
That accelerometer based input shaping is insane. Wow. I am seriously interested in building a klipper based machine at this point.
Pretty much any machine can be a klipper machine. Just need a raspberry pi.
@@Ibleoverhan build it bigger!
@@kouji71 i didn't catch how its controlled. Does the pi just feed gcode to the printers existing main board over serial? And do you just rase the main boards jerk and acceleration values way up so it would then uses the new defined settings fed with the g code?
im gona install it on my ender 3
@@kouji71 or an older PC. I will be running a few printers off of one PC.
Michael, Please keep up the Klipper content, and, "Dare" I say it, go DEEPER down the rabbit hole. I believe it to be a GREAT firmware, it's biggest hurdle to overcome being that tipping point of acceptance where there are so many tutorials, that one can't help but find the explanation/tutorial/inspiration/guidance one needs. .... Thanks, for all you do...............
I'm considering clipper for my cr 10 and modifying it to be a beast
After this and based on the comments, I will be converting a bed slinger to see how it goes. Any particular features you think I should try? I will run KlipperScreen on the other printer to try it out.
@@TeachingTech particular features, ... I like them all TBH. For me it's the complete package, that I like, Input Shaper w/accelerometer, pressure advance, No recompiling, can access from my desktop,laptop, .. phone......
Thanks for the reply. However you asked me to go deeper but listed stuff already in this series. Feel free to specify something I haven't tried yet.
@@TeachingTech If your going with a bed slinger, you should try a core XZ config.
The educational value of your content is priceless
One of my first prints years ago was a blink fox. I didn't know the point of infill so it was 100% and took FOREVER lol
Brickfox lol
That's gotta be one BULKY Blink Fox 😂
It's really amazing to see just how far 3d printing has come in the last 10 years. I bought my first 3d printer back when they were just announced and there have been countless improvements to software, techniques, filaments and hardware since then.
Damn, all these videos made me want to have a Rat Rig as soon as possible... Great work as usual from your end, you're a godsend for the community
Amazing content. That's one of the best 3D printer videos I watched the last year. You are an outstanding TH-cam creator and if this other TH-cam creator ever accuses you of stealing again, show him this comment.
That speed is absolutely crazy I can't believe that kind of quality is possible with speeds like that. I am fairly sure if I set my lk4 to speeds like that the hot end would just climb off the gantry and slap me.
I think my printer would snap its frame and catch on fire.
I really value your time and effort that you put into your videos 👍
thank you so much for doing this series. i think you convinced me that, one day in the future when i have the cash, i could do this, or a similar, build. these tutorials were top notch - informative but easy to understand.
Thorough and comprehensive information. Thank you for this video! 👍
I’m so glad youtube recommended this to me. This will make my prototype prints go even faster which means I can bring sample products to market even quicker without sacrificing quality
Using I2C with long wires you need to add a stronger pull up on the remote end to account for the increased capacitance of the transmission line. The Adafruit ADXL board has a 10K pull up, changing that to a 4k7 will give you more reliable signal. Also make sure you keep them far away or shielded from the high current lines for heaters and steppers.
Thanks for the tips. It's been reliable since I ran the ADXL loom separately to the rest, you are spot on.
@@TeachingTech You can also try twisting positive negative pairs together to reduce crosstalk. That's what's done on Cat5e and up.
I struggled with this for a while. Don’t be like me and re-crimp, re-wire, re-solder; try a short cable with 3v & Ground first. If it works now, cut off any excess wire then maybe swap out the resistor 😁
@@pinaz993 I braided the adxl loom, works perfectly. :)
Also using shielded Ethernet cables for signal carrying works surprisingly well.
Today ive seen 3 different game-changing technologies in 3 seperate fields. This is a great day.
What are they?
@@zen_tewmbs I guess we will never know
Thanks for showcasing my Build, with my enclosure!! GREAT CONTENT as always!
It looks incredible, well done!
@@TeachingTech Thanks! Appreciate it!
Wow. Next generation 3D printing. Can’t wait to put this on my rig.
Using an accelerometer and input shaping is really cool
Yes. And the next step should probably be active oscillation suppression right during the printing by constantly monitoring the acceleration.
I see this being used to detect skipped steps too. Like the Prusa method but better.
Even though it takes a second for this video to get to the point, after watching hundreds of tuning videos I must say this is one of the best put together instructionals and covers many important points. Kudos!
You wanna know what's weird? I just have the package of two ADXL345 modules in my hand while I check the latest videos from my subscriptions. This is MEANT TO BE! I can't wait to put these babies to use!
This is a very nice application of accelerometers, signal processing and mechanics, very high quality video.
Thank you, a lot of info and tricks revealed. Very interesting, now time to rebuild and upgrade! Thanks
Thanks for this Michael. I'll definitely be doing this with my voron when the parts arrive.
Just finished setting it up ready to run tests now
I just started using input shaper / klipper on my ender 3 v2 and it's sweet! Manual tuning of input shaper is a lot easier than I thought it would be with great results.
Really Great series - I'm excited about the possibilities
I love your vids. I have an original ender 3 that I bought everything that you can get to upgrade it now I’m just having a hell of a time getting it all together correctly and then I thought I might as well throw a raspberry pi in it and try running klipper on it. I’m so new to this I kinda jumped in with both feet and got over my head. But with your videos and my so called knowledge I can get this working.
Thanx for this build series of the RatRig, it is seriously swaying me to build one. Hopefully, once the pandemic has run its course, I can invest in importing one and then building it.
a total upgrade to the whole 3d printing world... very interested to see more....
Thats really cool; glad to see there are people in the fdm space still doing other stuff than seeing if they can make their printer another $10 cheaper. Id gladly pay a premium for a printer that does all this well out of the box, but as far as I know neither prussa or ultimaker have been pushing the envelope here.
this makes some ultra rigid setups $300 cheaper
Capitalism, baby!!
Build your first cash cow, then sit on your ass.
Making printers cheaper is still a good thing. I can't afford one still (highschool student :3) but it's getting close.
@@ChrisD__ Creality Ender 3 of e-bay for $197, and PLA is $14 a KG... It's not going to get any cheaper, and if it did, you don't want it, likely... Now you know what to ask for for Christmas...
@@ashkebora7262 meh
Congratulations and well done!
I'm also super excited. A voron2.4 is on my list, and I'm super excited to move up from a customized Ender 5 to a fantastic CoreXY printer.
You are a best source what ever i tend to do. a year ago i bought ender 3 pro, and i have set up the visual studio and compiled my custom setup and upgraded to direct drive and bltouch, while changing my driverboard to skr mini e3 with octoprint. it has been really easy to learn all of this in a year. Now I'm dreaming of updating to clipper and making voron 2.4 for larger and faster printer. The old prints abs and tpu without problems, but many prints do not fit into ender and it is still slow. But thanks to you, everything has been like playing with legos.
Awesome video. Cant wait to try this on reprap. Have my sensor mounted and wired just waiting for reprap 3.4. Hope they replicate that auto tuner. Impressive.
Best analogy for resonance 8:40 Thanks!
Thank you for covering the concept of using the non-planar printing question, since I was one of the people who asked about it a future video on it after rewatching the original video. I'm still too lazy to build my own printer like this or the voron or hovort, so I haven't watch many build streams/videos on them.
Very impressive! Thank you for the video.
Im do happy you covered this
That is very impressive! Have got a cheap slow 3d printer here, watching videos like this puts me in awe.
Klipper can help even cheap, slow printers. Give it a try, I know I'm glad I did!
Love the jacket! Arguably the best driver in F1. Would have love to see how many championships he could have won.
the good ol chook calibration technique. Masterful
Speed and quality. How awesome 👌
I’ve been out of the 3D printing game for a while, looking to get things going again.. one of the things I always pushed was my speed and quality.. this seems to take that to a whole new level… will have to look at these ratrig’s when they become more available,
Awesome job 👌
Your the man...great technical job
Michael, you are OP as hell. Such a good video.
Another great video. I’m learning so much with each video you post. Thank you for sharing.
P.S. Extra points for the Senna hoodie…. Senna was a god! RIP
your videos are top tier. Wow!
Alright, you've convinced me. Time to start cranking up my printer
Wow, now that is a result!
sweet, i am going to build a Rat Rig V-core 3 500mm. Thanks Michael.
Hi Michael!
Thanks for another great video, as usual!
Can you please make a video about using a relay to power on and off the printer with fluid or mainsail os ?
I think the voltage drop issue was an electrical interference issue. I had it when I wired up my accelerometer with a comparable cable loom. When I pulled the wires apart though, it started working.
I love seeing all these advancements in the gun industry
I like this concept!
Thank you for this interesting video!!!
Cool sweater! Iconic driver!
Finally! Someone who made a video about this!
There were already videos on TH-cam (nero3dp for example) but at least it's nice that a bigger channel is mentioning it so that more people are aware of such a cool feature
This will be great once it comes standard on printers. I do not care about speed but love the quality you have .
aaaah the vid many been waiting for! :D Excellent preparation for the topic, great execution. Good stuff. Was a good watch :)
p.s.
glad to have helped, thanks for the credits :)
Thanks for once again teaching me some very useful things!
Upvote for your cute chicken! 🐔 😍
Thank you for your videos, they are so helpful.
Saved this video for when I move to Klipper
Multiple likes and subscribed because of that Arton Senna hood!
Love the hoodie
I will definitely go for Klipper... I can't live with the whole slicer-carves-things-into-stone compilation. I'm hoping to find a more Just-In-Time compilation paradigm in there with sensor feedback.
the chicken example really brought it all home. now i'm able to grasp the concepts.
thanks boss.
I'm glad there was value in that. Most people have just made jokes :D
Great Work! Im so happy that you seem to love Klipper too and i hope that your series will make it even more popular and push development. Since i got into 3D printing i was excited about pushing the speeds and quality and Klipper has some really nice tools to do so. You show that perfectly. Keep up your great work, we can all learn a lot in your Videos.
Very cool technology. I am getting an itching for a new printer that replaces my Ender 3 and 5.
Man, all these videos and posts about how awesome Klipper is. Y'all really gonna make me fix my Ender til I break it 😂
I'd love to see how you tension & tune the belts as well as other calibrations. I'm going to buy myself one of these soon... and I need to know what to do!
Great video!
This is so cool
I also tried Klipper with a CoreXY printer, and I fell in love with it! The first love was OctoPrint, and this second one is much more deeper. :)
It is like starting to race with a nice street car. With shiny multi tone metallic paint, leather seats, quality car audio, beautiful rims, all the fancy things. Then you reach the limits of that car, and build a dedicated race car. Shaving off all the fancy things, and you only keep the necessary ones, but use the best of those. This is how you find a whole new level of racing.
Klipper with Fluidd is the dedicated, purposely built race car of 3D printer world. :)
Excellent!
Looks like it's time to start remixing this into my ender and new big printer. With results like that It'd be awesome
Love the jacket! Senna forever!
FYI - the Marlin linear advance calibration actually works pretty well for Klipper Pressure advance as well and takes a LOT less time.
this is really cool.
I used the same wire you said didn't work for the accelerometer and it worked just fine. Did have a few issues at first but it turned out I just crimped a couple connectors wrong.
I am running my accelerometer with 5V because of a voltage drop, works beautifully
Really cool :)
your voice is hypnotic
Great video, looking fwd to Marlin versions.
Nice jacket! greetings from Brazil!
Great Video, and 50 points to gryffindor for the cool Senna Jacket.
This is awesome and I understand your reasoning for the build. I will be waiting to hear the FINAL review of the actual cost of the machine when you are satisfied. Is it going to be enclosed and heated or just another racing cube with klipper competing for the 1 minute benchy? What are you actually trying to acheive? Will it print exotic materials? Will it print above 350C. Will it have resolution finer than 100 micron? You are talented for sure. Thanks for all you do.
19:07 "I lowered the layer high to 1.5 mm" ?!?!?!? WUT ?! Ahahahah I see the 0.15 soon after, okay ahahah
This is a fabulous series Michael. I wait for each part with more anticipation than I ever did with GOT. Made me finally do the right thing and support your patreon. Absolutely brilliant.
Sick hoodie
Still haven't seen how you tensioned the belts buddy. :P You said you'd cover that!
Absolutely brilliant videos otherwise though, it's helped me so much in assembling my own Rat Rig.
the rat rig look nice but i decided to build a voron 2.4 cant wait to get the parts to build it some of what u did in this video will apply to tuning the voron
Both options are fantastic, I have no doubt.
Good stuff, mate! :-)
I love your videos and have been watching for a long time, but I also love all your F1 stuff! I have to know where you got that sweater! It’s distracting me from the video with how much I want it!
This is going to big a pretty big leap for 3d printing quality.
It can be once the process has become standardized and other companies start to implement the process into their slicers
Thank you! Just sorta surprised you sliced with S3D, a slicer that has not been improved for more than 2 years - which in this industry is like a lifetime ago.
Also - having the accelerometer wired directly to the motherboard, and not to a Pi, helps us eventually get rid of a Pi.
My relationship with S3D is based on the fact I've been using it for so long. Objectively, if I was starting again I'd likely switch.
@@TeachingTech Oh, yeah. No worries. I hadn't used my copy for so long, I almost forgot the interface.
Instead using the macros to turn on and off the led you can use the switch in the fans and output section. If you add the pwm section in the [output_pin] you can also change the brightness with a slider in the same fluidd section
Could you elaborate on that? If the fan output runs on 24V hows do I run a single 2V led of that? Or does it require to install 12 leds to fill the 24V output?
@@chaicracker you can set a max pwm output. If you need to power some 12V equipment you set the max power at 0.5 so the output at 100% is 12V
@@XeonMC01 Holy moly.. thank you for blowing my mind... also thanks for the quick reply :)
@@chaicracker hope it does work for you
@@XeonMC01 I'm preparing a led to try out, do I need a resistor for that? only have one on hand and don't wanna fry it.
I switch to Klipeer for speeeeeed yeah!
I made this setup for a Hypercube (coreXY) and it worked great! Thank you very much for this playlist. I had a question about the display using an old tablet. Is there a correct way to connect or did you just use the USB as power and accessed the IP of the PI through the browser? That way, whenever you turn on the printer, you need to access the browser to see the initial screen. Is this the best way?
I'm building a BLV MGN printer and this is helping with ideas for it. Klipper is new to me but this does help ease the tension to get things going. Still thinking about a high flow hotend for the printer.
Stuck between Nova and the mosquito+ hotend. Nova is have the prices overall though. Thinking about what I want to get done is fairly fun.
Next episode my Rat Rig gets a Mosquito Magnum. As for Klipper, there are many example configs available to hopefully get you started.
@@TeachingTech Hopefully by looking at the Rat Rig config I can take what i learn from that and apply it to the BLV set up. I would have gone Rat, however, there was not a metal kit for it at this current time. That being mounts for the linear rails and hotend fixture. Waiting on parts to come in is unbearable as I want to program and test stuff for the fun of it.
Fun never the less.
You can use the marlin version of calibrating pressure advance, you just have to replace the lines for changing the pressure advance via note pad. It's way faster and easier to read IMO.
I like the reading of the Klipper tower, but I agree it is quite a slow print by comparison.