The E36 and E46 both had subframe issues but you can buy plates and weld them in. Most of the 2.5s didn't show many cases. Unless you thrash the car daily and have loads of power not much to worry about. Cooling system now that's something to be on top of.
I can't agree more with this outstanding troubleshooting … things like these, with a bit of research will save you bunch of money in suspension repairs. Local shop tried to charge me $1200 to replace left front thrust arm including alignment. Did DIY , got the part for $60. plus the cost of handtools ( 18mm socket, 1/2 dr rachet, allen wrench, and 27mm start wrench. Even used the car jack and stands and additional $60 for alignment.
I have a vibration in the steering wheel and chassis from about 60+mph (95kmh). It is not driveline related (changed driveshaft components already) or brakes (vibration does not change when braking, letting off), the tires are good and balanced, driving straight, I have replaced both Thrust Arms, driver complete Tie rod (for alignment, the old one was rusted beyond) and driver Camber Arm (the last which the inspection claimed was the problem, but obviously wasn't), and it is still there. The driver swaybar link has a little play (but that couldn't be it?). No leaks from suspension and no wobblyness (except for vibration in 60+).
The guy said bmw does not have many problems with the CV joints. I totally disagree, at least on the 325xi. I have 104k miles on mine and I just got done replacing my 4th set of axles and cv joints. The 2nd one replaced then in 13 months I had to have that set replaced. I got to say I am getting better, and quicker replacing these cv's and axles.
2 years later but Rich I ran into a similar issue and your problem may have been like mine and that was bad carrier bearings in the “drivetrain housing”
I was very lucky at the junkyard last weekend. Someone junked same car E39 with Bilstean struts and shocks. The couldn't even be a year old,they look brand new. My suspension must of been junk compared to this Bilstean setup! The Car Floats Down The Road And Making Turns the car remains level! They charged me 100 bucks for all 4. But we what a difference, I highly recommend these for the E39, seeing how heavy these cars are. The front strut inner piston is almost as thick as the out dimension! Feels like a totally different car now,smooth!
Super informative video! I go back and re-watch this every so often and learn something new. Somewhat of a newbie DIY guy so lots to learn about my what I do myself vs farm out. About to replace stock struts, shocks, springs on my 2007 335xi 98K miles (original owner). Thanks again!
I have a E46 and it makes a klunk noice when driving in a bad road with bumps etc etc. But when i drive in a regular good road it's a really smooth ride...
Hi Nathan great video and very helpful. If you have a moment I have a question. When I searched and your video came up it was in regards to a clunk and a felt vibration when slowing down (under 10 mph and to a stop). It is coming from the rear. It is for an AWD e46. Several shops have looked at it but with no luck in diagnosing. It feels like it is doing or will do some damage. This is for a daily. No luck finding an torn bushing, mounts. Replaced a lot of these trying to isolate the problem. Thank you
I recently hit a pot hole in my e60 that cut and destroyed my driver tire. I had to take my car to the dealership/stealership because Hibdon tires could not perform a alignment. It turned out that it was the control/thrust arm, and they wanted $1,100 for both sides. I will be purchasing the eight (8) piece Lemforde or Meyle set from FCP Euro.
I have a 06 bmw 750li and I can’t find the clunk noise over bumps, it’s coming from the driver side and so far I replaced the upper and lower control arms twice , sway bar links, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar bushing and also replace the struts. It still has the noise over bumps on the driver side
Good video thank question? I have a 2005 bmw 330xi manual 6 speed.all wheel drive. When i shift i hear a thummping noise from rear of car but the time i come out of 3 third gear it stops thummping. Any suggestions thank you.
My steering shaft had its steering guibo replaced but still can replicate a clank that sounds like it's coming from above it when I wiggle the steering shaft underneath the car. What do you think?
Brilliant video and really useful. Thanks Nathan. It’s do much better to see when the drivetrain is lying on the floor 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 would you put poly bushes on new control arms or just use them as they are?
My noise is coming from the passenger side rear. Then one day I heard a very loud noise that sounded as if something was rolling from one side to another. It happens on turns.PLEASE suggest what to check on my E36 '95 318ic
Great video btw I’ve had problems with the transfer case so I coded it out an it solved my clunking issue but before I did I’ve cause a flat tire an it made my car sound like gears or bearings was going wild fast forward Every i accelerate it’s a knocking / thumping underneath from front don’t know what it can be I’ve just noticed grease on inside one the time
I have a similar clunky creaking soundcoming underneath the car when turning in my z4 e85... is thus likely the control arms? Great video and explanation thanks
Hey thanks for the video dude, I have an E82 bmw, since having it remapped I'm getting torque judder. It's going in the shop Monday for new suspension arms, struts, top mounts, read axle bushings. My guy is going to check the prop shaft centre bearing and front coupling, it's an automatic 👌 hopefully should be resolved.
I'm having a gear ratio Code PO 732... transmission has a hard time shifting into second delayed shift and hard shift but it only does it when the car is warmed up. What does that sound like to you Nathan?
any tips on get the rear bolt out on the e39 97 5401 i control arm that bolts hits the sway bar .that same sway broke a top bolt off wear the rubber grommet is attached the 8:!9 in your vid is what i have
Wow Good work. Hello 👋🏼 Nathan. May I get a bit of help from you, and anyone who understands this. I own a 1998 728i e38. I wanna change the whole suspension. Is the 21 piece suspension kit compatible with that of a e38 740 or 740i, that I see available on the internet on eBay? Are the suspension replacement kits universal on these e38 7 series?
I have a 2001 x5. E53 with a 3.0. My problem is i need to change the bushings on the rear lower control arms. Is this something that is hard for oneself to do
Hey Nathan, I have a question about driveline vibration. My 2008 535xi (E60) has a real bad vibration (shake the whole car apart bad) one day so I limped it home and got online and everybody said it was most likely my rear driveshaft GUIBO and center support, so I replaced both of them and the driveshaft cv joint. I bolted it all back together and took it for a ride and the vibration is still there. So I decided to look at the front driveshaft and there is no Guibo on that shaft as far as I can tell. It's just a shaft with two yokes. So I decided to pull the shaft and take it for a drive. Now the vibration is about 90% gone. After inspecting the front shaft I can't find any play in the U joints. I'm at a loss here. I'm thinking it's the front diff or the transfer case. The front cv axles I don't see any play either. I'm just confused.
@nathansbmwworkshop I have a slight clunk when going from reverse to drive back to reverse again. Not an obnoxious noise, but trying to catch an issue (if there is one) Early. Is it likely a bad u-joint somewhere, or transfer case issue? Thanks for your videos.
Have a X5 e53, I have a squeak at the front drivers side, like squelching rubber, only hear it at low speeds and it's not the steering, there is judder when braking, would this be the first bushing you pointed out on this video, thanks
That looks like an X5 E53, if so, there absolutely is camber adjustment on the front end. It is done by removing the locator pins at the top of the strut tower inside the engine bay.
Nathan, question my E70 has sporadic rumbling noise comes from front passenger side. this doesnt happen consistent, only everyone a while, however when the noise started, it last for the entire trip, then after parking few hours or overnight, the noise is gone, then 2-3 weeks later it started again. again, noise tend to start when speed reached like 20mph. So strange, I suspect it is wheel barring. Could you shed some light what may be the issue? thank you
hello Nathan my name id David i was wondering where can i get the whole suspension kit you were talking about in the video for a hundred bucks? lol i just found it here on ebay but a little confused on which one is the best deal with quality for my buck i have a 1997 528i which i believe is the e39........
Welcome to my car bmw 540i 2003 I have a problem and hope for help I have an annoying vibration starting from 80km to 95km. The car vibrates from the bottom and in addition to the steering wheel. When the speed reaches 120km, the vibration of the steering wheel disappears and the vibration remains with the body of the car. Balance for new tires and problem not finished Can the problem be the Shaft Shaft? Or is it possible to be a problem of Axl? Please help me
Don’t know if you’re still having these issues but if not maybe this will help someone else. Hi speed vibration is most likely guibo/flex disk on the drive shaft as well as possibly the center support bearing and bushing also on the drive shaft. The 80-95km speed vibrations are most likely the thrust arms possibly control arms or tie rods or the wheels out of balance or out of round
Great video! seen alot of your uploads. Im planning to do a major overhaul on my -99 540i/6, Do you have any recommendations on where to buy the kit you refererd to. And have you come across any quallty issues with these kits? I want to replace all the arms and joints.
+wyldcard You can get the front kit from ebay for around $100 and front and rear for around $160-$200, remember the 540 kit is different than the other e39 models
Hi can someone help. I just changed 2 new shock absorber in my e39 with the mounting. Still while driving if my tyres goes in a hole on the road I hear a tik tik sound. My mechanic looked everywhere could not find where the problem coming from
+Chris Lapone They wear out at the same rate as the oem , you can buy solid bushings for the thrust arms for alot more money and then you will have to press them in but i dont think its worth it
Originally posted on the wrong video for a different problem. Sorry.I have a 2002 330XI. When I take off, it feels like I'm running over gravel. As I accelerate, it goes away. Any idea what that might be? It's just at take off if I take off kind of fast. It happens 99% of the time. Please let me know what you think. Thanks!
Nathan, great video.. what is your experience with ebay control arm/ball joint kit durability .. vs OEM German brands. I am looking to buy a kit from Hamburg Tech.. thanks
Vaios Diminikos been awhile since I was under it. Pretty sure it was ball joint. I replaced both and the tie rods. Seemed to fix it up. It’s been sold while ago so that’s best to my knowledge
Yes. The two terms are interchangeable. They are supposed to be called thrust arms, but most cars don't have thrust arms so they call it an upper control arm.
If you want to drive the car for a while please don't put a junk 100$ kit into your car. You'll do the same work in 20k miles again while the original parts last 10yrs/100k miles. The only brand you should buy is Lemförder which is the OEM supplier. Another important thing is that most of these parts have to be torqued in normal position (all wheels on the ground), if you don't do this the rubber bushings will rip again in no time.
+TBasianeyes Your statement is half true, the kits from ebay will last just as long as oem which is usually under 50k miles, the only bushing that will go out is the thrust arm bushing, unless you upgrade to a aftermarket solid bushing setup there is no hope to get 100k miles out of them, the bolts are torque limited on the thrush bushing and there is no need to torque them when the car is on the ground since the arm will pivot on the bolt.
+Nathan's DIY Garage I'm not sure about kits available in the US but I have seen this junk hundreds of times here in Germany, its not worth anyones time or safety to put in these parts. I have seen plenty of cars with 100k miles and a good thrust arm bushing, the Lemförder replacement part will last just as long unless you install it wrong. Your statement that the thrust arm bushing doesn't have to be torqued with the car in normal position is wrong. Torque it with the car in the air and then lower the car, you'll see that it doesn't pivot on the bolt. Look it up in TIS.
Agreed. Lemfoerder or TRW (OEM for some components on 540i) is all that should go on the car. I've heard decent things about Meyle. The eBay stuff and cheap aftermarket supplies are generally garbage. I've seem OEM components last well over 100k miles when the car isn't abused. Tie rods will commonly run over 160k miles without issue. A couple exceptions to OEM bushings - E36/E46 front control arm bushings are best replaced with urethane bushings. I also like the urethane rear trailing arm bushings. Some complain they squeak, but the slight additional noise is worth the huge increase in durability. I've only every heard an occasional squeak while in a parking garage with the windows down.
The E36 and E46 both had subframe issues but you can buy plates and weld them in. Most of the 2.5s didn't show many cases. Unless you thrash the car daily and have loads of power not much to worry about. Cooling system now that's something to be on top of.
The best video i have found yet on youtube, detailing the common suspension issues of of BMW's.(at least mid 80's to mid 00's)
I can't agree more with this outstanding troubleshooting … things like these, with a bit of research will save you bunch of money in suspension repairs. Local shop tried to charge me $1200 to replace left front thrust arm including alignment. Did DIY , got the part for $60. plus the cost of handtools ( 18mm socket, 1/2 dr rachet, allen wrench, and 27mm start wrench. Even used the car jack and stands and additional $60 for alignment.
I have a vibration in the steering wheel and chassis from about 60+mph (95kmh). It is not driveline related (changed driveshaft components already) or brakes (vibration does not change when braking, letting off), the tires are good and balanced, driving straight, I have replaced both Thrust Arms, driver complete Tie rod (for alignment, the old one was rusted beyond) and driver Camber Arm (the last which the inspection claimed was the problem, but obviously wasn't), and it is still there. The driver swaybar link has a little play (but that couldn't be it?). No leaks from suspension and no wobblyness (except for vibration in 60+).
Did you figure it out?
i just bought an m3 e36. found your channel to help me DIY. thank you
Great video! Just starting to investigate the clunks in my car. Thanks for taking your time to share this.
The guy said bmw does not have many problems with the CV joints. I totally disagree, at least on the 325xi. I have 104k miles on mine and I just got done replacing my 4th set of axles and cv joints. The 2nd one replaced then in 13 months I had to have that set replaced. I got to say I am getting better, and quicker replacing these cv's and axles.
2 years later but Rich I ran into a similar issue and your problem may have been like mine and that was bad carrier bearings in the “drivetrain housing”
I was very lucky at the junkyard last weekend. Someone junked same car E39 with Bilstean struts and shocks. The couldn't even be a year old,they look brand new. My suspension must of been junk compared to this Bilstean setup! The Car Floats Down The Road And Making Turns the car remains level! They charged me 100 bucks for all 4. But we what a difference, I highly recommend these for the E39, seeing how heavy these cars are. The front strut inner piston is almost as thick as the out dimension! Feels like a totally different car now,smooth!
Good deal man, good find.
Nathan, thank you for sharing you expertise. I find your videos quite intuitive, short and to the point. Giving me much valuable understanding.
Excellent explanations on suspension. It’s like having Bill Lockwood explaining car suspension.
i drive a bmw x5 30d 2004 model and when i pull away fast there's a knocking sound under the car sounds like it comes from the gearbox
Super informative video! I go back and re-watch this every so often and learn something new. Somewhat of a newbie DIY guy so lots to learn about my what I do myself vs farm out. About to replace stock struts, shocks, springs on my 2007 335xi 98K miles (original owner). Thanks again!
I have a E46 and it makes a klunk noice when driving in a bad road with bumps etc etc. But when i drive in a regular good road it's a really smooth ride...
Hi Nathan great video and very helpful. If you have a moment I have a question. When I searched and your video came up it was in regards to a clunk and a felt vibration when slowing down (under 10 mph and to a stop). It is coming from the rear. It is for an AWD e46. Several shops have looked at it but with no luck in diagnosing. It feels like it is doing or will do some damage. This is for a daily. No luck finding an torn bushing, mounts. Replaced a lot of these trying to isolate the problem. Thank you
Where did you get the kit you mentioned for 100 bucks. And what is it called or kit number.
I recently hit a pot hole in my e60 that cut and destroyed my driver tire. I had to take my car to the dealership/stealership because Hibdon tires could not perform a alignment. It turned out that it was the control/thrust arm, and they wanted $1,100 for both sides. I will be purchasing the eight (8) piece Lemforde or Meyle set from FCP Euro.
I have a 06 bmw 750li and I can’t find the clunk noise over bumps, it’s coming from the driver side and so far I replaced the upper and lower control arms twice , sway bar links, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar bushing and also replace the struts. It still has the noise over bumps on the driver side
Top mounts could be shot, I've have this before on e87 clunking sound.
That was very helpful. Thank you. Do you think you can make a video about the different types of BMWs for example what is e39 or f10 etc.. Thank you
I have problem of funy noise coming from engine in front next to taiming chaine and warning sign on dashboard said drivetrain drive in modern speed
This is among the very short list of best videos for car DIY. Appreciate your work. I'll be buying parts for my e90 N54 from your amazon store. :p
Good video thank question? I have a 2005 bmw 330xi manual 6 speed.all wheel drive. When i shift i hear a thummping noise from rear of car but the time i come out of 3 third gear it stops thummping. Any suggestions thank you.
Center support bearing, guibo/flex disk
My steering shaft had its steering guibo replaced but still can replicate a clank that sounds like it's coming from above it when I wiggle the steering shaft underneath the car. What do you think?
What is the kit called I would like to buy one
Brilliant video and really useful. Thanks Nathan. It’s do much better to see when the drivetrain is lying on the floor 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 would you put poly bushes on new control arms or just use them as they are?
My CV axel has some play when moving back and forth, NOT up and down. Is that an issue?
Amazing video man. Don't ever stop what your doing. Your the man! Cheers
My noise is coming from the passenger side rear. Then one day I heard a very loud noise that sounded as if something was rolling from one side to another. It happens on turns.PLEASE suggest what to check on my E36 '95 318ic
It's making a rusty bed spring sound. Back left quarter.
Is this the same problem with the E71? Have clunking on both sides
Great video btw I’ve had problems with the transfer case so I coded it out an it solved my clunking issue but before I did I’ve cause a flat tire an it made my car sound like gears or bearings was going wild fast forward Every i accelerate it’s a knocking / thumping underneath from front don’t know what it can be I’ve just noticed grease on inside one the time
I have a similar clunky creaking soundcoming underneath the car when turning in my z4 e85... is thus likely the control arms?
Great video and explanation thanks
Hey I have a 2011 bmw I have a clunking noise on the left side and my stuck get stuck when I make a left and right turns but they are brand new
Hey thanks for the video dude, I have an E82 bmw, since having it remapped I'm getting torque judder. It's going in the shop Monday for new suspension arms, struts, top mounts, read axle bushings. My guy is going to check the prop shaft centre bearing and front coupling, it's an automatic 👌 hopefully should be resolved.
More "good vibrations" from Nathan. Excellent.
+Vicky Treloare Thanks , this was getting to be a very common question so i thought a video was needed
If you change wishbones complete on all BMW,s they drive like new track CONTROL arms allso not a lot of MONEY
Thanks for your time in putting this together. Very helpful.
I'm having a gear ratio Code PO 732... transmission has a hard time shifting into second delayed shift and hard shift but it only does it when the car is warmed up. What does that sound like to you Nathan?
any tips on get the rear bolt out on the e39 97 5401 i control arm that bolts hits the sway bar .that same sway broke a top bolt off wear the rubber grommet is attached the 8:!9 in your vid is what i have
Nice Job Nathan like always, before I bought my 545i I was looking at your videos a lot so.
Wow Good work. Hello 👋🏼 Nathan. May I get a bit of help from you, and anyone who understands this. I own a 1998 728i e38. I wanna change the whole suspension. Is the 21 piece suspension kit compatible with that of a e38 740 or 740i, that I see available on the internet on eBay?
Are the suspension replacement kits universal on these e38 7 series?
I have a 2001 x5. E53 with a 3.0. My problem is i need to change the bushings on the rear lower control arms. Is this something that is hard for oneself to do
What brand is the kit you recommend for cheap? I am looking at a Meyle 8 piece kit for the front that is $415.
My car vibrating after 120km/h+ the shaking come below the seats.. I don't think it's the wheels..can u help me please?
oh, geeze. please tell me where i can buy these as a kit. Rear too!
Do you buy the kick on rock auto for the suspension parts ?? Or where do you buy the kit for the front end x5 kit you were mentioning ? Thanks
Hey Nathan, I have a question about driveline vibration. My 2008 535xi (E60) has a real bad vibration (shake the whole car apart bad) one day so I limped it home and got online and everybody said it was most likely my rear driveshaft GUIBO and center support, so I replaced both of them and the driveshaft cv joint. I bolted it all back together and took it for a ride and the vibration is still there. So I decided to look at the front driveshaft and there is no Guibo on that shaft as far as I can tell. It's just a shaft with two yokes. So I decided to pull the shaft and take it for a drive. Now the vibration is about 90% gone. After inspecting the front shaft I can't find any play in the U joints. I'm at a loss here. I'm thinking it's the front diff or the transfer case. The front cv axles I don't see any play either. I'm just confused.
@nathansbmwworkshop I have a slight clunk when going from reverse to drive back to reverse again. Not an obnoxious noise, but trying to catch an issue (if there is one) Early. Is it likely a bad u-joint somewhere, or transfer case issue? Thanks for your videos.
I have the same issue. Did you figure out what it was?
@@danielcornslll6904 nope. been driving like this for a few thousand miles now.
What causes loose steering. Or is it a combination
Nathan, you mentioned this "front suspension rebuild kit" Can you fire off a link to the one you recommend?
Nathan could you give me the link for the bmw e90 replacement parts as you mentioned were available in the video. Thanks!!
Same question
Or at least what vendors
Very nice presentation Nathan. Much appreciated.
Have a X5 e53, I have a squeak at the front drivers side, like squelching rubber, only hear it at low speeds and it's not the steering, there is judder when braking, would this be the first bushing you pointed out on this video, thanks
BRUCE LEE i would get underneath the car and give everything a look and a shake and see what you can find
Very helpful thank you.. I’m taking my f30 to the dealership to have it looked at for vibrations and this gives me an idea of what to ask about!
That looks like an X5 E53, if so, there absolutely is camber adjustment on the front end. It is done by removing the locator pins at the top of the strut tower inside the engine bay.
+John Pickering that's a e39 540 front suspension, the
E53 has a huge subframe
I wasn't aware that the e39 came in AWD so you learn something everyday.
In any case, the X5's do have adjustable front camber
let me clarify the thumbnail pic and the subframe leaning against the shed is e39 540 the subframe in the first part of the video is e53 x5
Ah right, yes it is the one in the video I was refering to
Nathan, question my E70 has sporadic rumbling noise comes from front passenger side. this doesnt happen consistent, only everyone a while, however when the noise started, it last for the entire trip, then after parking few hours or overnight, the noise is gone, then 2-3 weeks later it started again. again, noise tend to start when speed reached like 20mph. So strange, I suspect it is wheel barring. Could you shed some light what may be the issue? thank you
could you do a video on BMW 2011 X3 common problems and things to check while buying a used one.
hello Nathan my name id David i was wondering where can i get the whole suspension kit you were talking about in the video for a hundred bucks? lol i just found it here on ebay but a little confused on which one is the best deal with quality for my buck i have a 1997 528i which i believe is the e39........
Which cheap suspension kits to you use?
Great help just to be able to ask the right questions of your mechanic.
Great Info! I really appreciate your in-depth videos. Keep up the awesome work!
+Ryan No problem thank you for watching.
Nathan's DIY Garage. where are you located love to take my x5 to you
Ryan Lee
xxxsexmous
Awesome video Nathan thanks 👍
Got a link to that $100 control arm kit. I only see the FPC one for $500ish
How much does this cost to get fixed
Welcome to my car bmw 540i 2003 I have a problem and hope for help I have an annoying vibration starting from 80km to 95km. The car vibrates from the bottom and in addition to the steering wheel. When the speed reaches 120km, the vibration of the steering wheel disappears and the vibration remains with the body of the car. Balance for new tires and problem not finished Can the problem be the Shaft Shaft? Or is it possible to be a problem of Axl? Please help me
Don’t know if you’re still having these issues but if not maybe this will help someone else. Hi speed vibration is most likely guibo/flex disk on the drive shaft as well as possibly the center support bearing and bushing also on the drive shaft.
The 80-95km speed vibrations are most likely the thrust arms possibly control arms or tie rods or the wheels out of balance or out of round
hi I got a problem with my BMW E39 I change the disc and pads on the front but still is vibrating and I check the bushings I don't know what to do now
BMW M SPOR check your motor mounts. Possibly subframe bushings.
I get vibration from putting my car in drive or reverse when idling but when it is parked there is no vibration. I drive a 2003 325xi
+HLamTran7 Hard to say but it sounds like you could have a motor mount or transmission mount bad
great video, thanks, I have a 2006 750li, how hard its to do the rear rear subframe mounts, do they slide out or is there a specific procedure, thanks
+They are just like the E53 and E39 mounts , you will need the special removal tool from eBay , it is a small press to get them out. Alfredo Azure G
thank you for the reply , maybe its better if you do the job if you were close to Connecticut. ok ill search the videos of those chassis, thanks
For some reason I could just go for an MRE right now...
My 06 525xi has a sound like marbles banging against each other in the front end when hitting bumps. Driving me crazy.
Bad struts
Great video! seen alot of your uploads. Im planning to do a major overhaul on my -99 540i/6, Do you have any recommendations on where to buy the kit you refererd to. And have you come across any quallty issues with these kits? I want to replace all the arms and joints.
+wyldcard You can get the front kit from ebay for around $100 and front and rear for around $160-$200, remember the 540 kit is different than the other e39 models
Getting ready to do my 05 x5 front suspention
This helped on what to replace on a good Running $600.00 bmw😀
Nothing cheaper on any BMW parts, the sawy bar you mentioned it cost $15, it's $61 for an aftermarket part.
Hi can someone help. I just changed 2 new shock absorber in my e39 with the mounting. Still while driving if my tyres goes in a hole on the road I hear a tik tik sound. My mechanic looked everywhere could not find where the problem coming from
Probably bad bushings on the control arms.
I see they do have solid steering couplers again...
Te aas l light ticking noise and at times feels as if it was breaked at speeds of 5-10 mph 2010 E60
Where do you get suspensions kits?
What quality issues have you run into with these kits? I feel as though for that kind of money they will need to be replaced yearly.
+Chris Lapone They wear out at the same rate as the oem , you can buy solid bushings for the thrust arms for alot more money and then you will have to press them in but i dont think its worth it
Could you point me in the direction of a decent kit for a 528 E39?
www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Front-Lower-Control-Arm-Kit-Lt-Rt-KM-Premium-Quality-E39-4pcs-/281565869188?fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item418ea23484:g:qa0AAOSw-W5UuY3Q&vxp=mtr
thats control arms only, if you need sway bar links and tie rods that kit is around $130
Awesome thanks, keep up the great videos!
Thanks, great vdo. You pointed out everything
Do you have any opinion on Monroe shocks replacement vs OEM for E39? I have a high mileage car and don't want to spend too much $$
+William Lee does your car have the m-sport package? that will make a difference on ride height and if its a 540 that will take different struts
it's non-sport model
I have a 06 BMW 325i and my front control arms are scraping the inner sun de o
The rims. What's wrong?
The control arm is scraping the inside of rim, that's the issue
Originally posted on the wrong video for a different problem. Sorry.I have a 2002 330XI. When I take off, it feels like I'm running over gravel. As I accelerate, it goes away. Any idea what that might be? It's just at take off if I take off kind of
fast. It happens 99% of the time. Please let me know what you think. Thanks!
Hi did you fix this problem? If so what was it? I'm having the same problem
Sam H I believe thata going to be your guilbo u joint on your driveshaft and maybe your center support bearing I have the same problem with my xi
Ashley Sandoval its probably your guilbo disk
floridaheat305 hey thanks for the response! It turned out it was that. Got it fixed a while back
What about subframe bushings?
Great video thank you. It is the exact noise on the thruster arm for mine.
what brands do you recommend Nathan? or what online stores?
I heard that the muffler can cause vibration
Very informative!! Thank you sooooo much!! I appreciate you!
Nathan, great video.. what is your experience with ebay control arm/ball joint kit durability .. vs OEM German brands.
I am looking to buy a kit from Hamburg Tech..
thanks
Having a crazy bang bang when braking but only at 60 kmh
Guessing it’s those bushing in thrust arm e53
i have this problem too when i brake with 60 and over and saking on the steering. did you find the solution?
Vaios Diminikos been awhile since I was under it. Pretty sure it was ball joint. I replaced both and the tie rods. Seemed to fix it up. It’s been sold while ago so that’s best to my knowledge
Hope this video helps me
are the THRUST ARM and the UPPER CONTROL ARM the same thing? Folks say at least replacing that
fixes a lot of vibration and shudder issues---true?
thx
Yes. The two terms are interchangeable. They are supposed to be called thrust arms, but most cars don't have thrust arms so they call it an upper control arm.
Thanks Nathan.
Wow been a while ago! Sound is different Nathan and seeing this I believe you lost weight over the years, super man!! :)
I just bought a 2008 bmw 535i that has a clunking when I hit bumps thank you 👍and sandwiched I mean subbed lol!
Good video, thanks for making it.
Thanks that was really helpful 🙏🙏🙏
I’m experiencing clunking noise atm after my car went into a pot .. what could it be?
Anything
Do you know where a good suspension package can be purchased for a 2005 BMW 745 LI?
You can buy complete kits off ebay, i use them all the time with no issues
Thanks for replying so quickly. What is the kit called so I know what to search for on eBay?
just search bmw e65 front control arm
Great video, thanks for posting!
If you want to drive the car for a while please don't put a junk 100$ kit into your car. You'll do the same work in 20k miles again while the original parts last 10yrs/100k miles. The only brand you should buy is Lemförder which is the OEM supplier.
Another important thing is that most of these parts have to be torqued in normal position (all wheels on the ground), if you don't do this the rubber bushings will rip again in no time.
+TBasianeyes Your statement is half true, the kits from ebay will last just as long as oem which is usually under 50k miles, the only bushing that will go out is the thrust arm bushing, unless you upgrade to a aftermarket solid bushing setup there is no hope to get 100k miles out of them, the bolts are torque limited on the thrush bushing and there is no need to torque them when the car is on the ground since the arm will pivot on the bolt.
+Nathan's DIY Garage I'm not sure about kits available in the US but I have seen this junk hundreds of times here in Germany, its not worth anyones time or safety to put in these parts. I have seen plenty of cars with 100k miles and a good thrust arm bushing, the Lemförder replacement part will last just as long unless you install it wrong.
Your statement that the thrust arm bushing doesn't have to be torqued with the car in normal position is wrong. Torque it with the car in the air and then lower the car, you'll see that it doesn't pivot on the bolt. Look it up in TIS.
Agreed. Lemfoerder or TRW (OEM for some components on 540i) is all that should go on the car. I've heard decent things about Meyle. The eBay stuff and cheap aftermarket supplies are generally garbage. I've seem OEM components last well over 100k miles when the car isn't abused. Tie rods will commonly run over 160k miles without issue. A couple exceptions to OEM bushings - E36/E46 front control arm bushings are best replaced with urethane bushings. I also like the urethane rear trailing arm bushings. Some complain they squeak, but the slight additional noise is worth the huge increase in durability. I've only every heard an occasional squeak while in a parking garage with the windows down.