Love your videos, you always explain everything so clearly and precisely. Very informative and easy to follow. You explain all the possible problems and how to address them. Please keep up the great work!
Great video! Very well explained. I own exactly the same car. Beware when you order parts for the diff. The diff is not an open diff on a Z3 coupe. It has a 25%torsen diff. The direction of the wheel counter and clockwise will look like an open diff. But have a 25% lsd under the load from the driveshaft. Play inside the dual mass flywheel is also a common clunking issue.
Thanks for the comments. Indeed that is correct. Its a LSD. I get a reconditioned unit from hardeman sports oarts in two weeks. I will make a video on it soon.
Good video this, very common on the Z3's here in the UK we always find its the diff but can be two causes, Main cause is the preload in the crush sleeve and secondly play in the LSD unit itself.
This may sound silly, but this is where a towel comes in handy. When trying to chase down a sound, Wrap and pack the towel around the item you are checking. If the sound is the same, then it's not that part (as the towel would dampen the sound a bit). If the sound changes however, you have either found the problem, or it's connected very closely. If it was the diff for example, wrap the towel around the diff and re-test. The sound from inside the diff would travel to the casing which would then be dampened. Genuinely, sounded stupid as hell when my old friend recommended it 20 years ago but it has not served me wrong since - although the towel is now filthy.
We always change the "lifetime oil". Unfortunately they left out the drain plug on the differential on this model. Sucking off is better than leaving the old one in. And we even completely change the servo oil and the atf container with a filter inside. The "lifetime oil" in the servo must also be removed and then everything lasts forever. Lifetime is not 4ever only 6-8 years approx. Nice video with the test method Steve BR Olaf
Thanks for the comments Steve, I agree "life Time" is certainly nit 22 years. What oil do you use ? Red Tulip ? It seems that mine has a drain and fill plug.. Have not looked very close, but it seems like its two hex inbus bolds
@@D3Sshooter Hi Steve, for the diff we use Rowe HIGHTEC TOPGEAR SAE 75W-90 S. For the engine Valvoline 0W-40 SynPower and for the gearbox and the servo Castrol Transmax-Z. The drain plug is a magnetic screw from "gold plug usa" and the engine oil drain plug also. The screws are great and you wonder what is being fished out with. For the gearbox we use a bmw genuine drain plug it`s with magnet it´s conical. I hope it´s the right part number M24X1,5 23 11 7 546 876 Greetings Olaf
The limited slip differential check only works on early non ASC cars with the 25% 'plate' LSD. From 1998 the 2.8 and later the 3.0 used a TorSen (torque sensing) LSD that does not lock up like a plate LSD. Without torque applied it just behaves like an open diff.
Interesting to see under there. Nice video. I can relate since my trucks make similar clunks. Did not know the Z3 came in coupe style as well, I only saw the roadster locally. One comment is that I have been extremely pleased with using a mechanic's stethoscope when trying to find noises. It's really uncanny how much that amplifies things, I can easily pinpoint which cylinder makes the odd noise etc. Very effective, and a chinese one is only $10/e or so. For pros they have radio-operated microphones you can stick with magnets under the car for test drives, but that is probably generally overkill for us peons. You might want to see if you can fix any excess diff backlash yourself, it's sometimes not as difficult as it may seem at first. Good luck with the fix!
Hi, Mr , i don't know your name, please to see your videos, are wonderfull, I lived in woluwe Saint Lambert,now in Colombia, My Z3 has noise in the diferential like a buzzing that begins at 50 kms and harder with the higher speed, unconfortable noise. I did revision and retight all the bults ,change the lub for
id say its backlash in the differential, older landrovers had that, id say there is some wear in bearings or the diff has not had enough preload put on it when assembled.
@@D3Sshooter edit: i hadn't realized that was an E36,a few years old... time to check the diff gear oil on mine (1995 318 tds, diesel...) lol Nice video; what a shame, hadn't seen bad diffs in decades!! my 1992 (Opel) Monterey ,Isuzu trooper 3.1 TD with 300000 kms has the diff,engine,gearboxes,A/C(never a leak!!!) etc like new; the posi rear works like in the day it was born,never a repair except the P/S pump last year; even the Alternator still has the original brushes and copper rings...amazing --but i know they will need to be replaced soon lol
Love this video.. i have same problem like that.. but with another abnormal sound when shifting to gear pos 1 or R.. but no abnormal sound when the car move..
I had a 1929 Oldsmobile which had flexible driving discs like these. It was a beast of a car, they lasted about 9 months before they needed replacement, not a difficult job though because the poor boards cold be quickly removed to gain access. Have we come very far in 90 years??? Stavros
Hi your videos are amazing. I was wondering, I have the same issue on my z3 but d'ont have the time to work on it at the moment. What are the consequences of keeping driving the car with this problem ? thank you
Well that depends on the actual issue... in each case it will get worse over time and might snap things. If the diff rubber is gone , then it can sheer the connections to the chassis. If its the diff itself `internal' , then it will destroy the diff over time .. all that can take a long time... but still its something you don't want to have
Don't be sure you don't have a limited slip diff. These good old Z3 with 2.8L engines often have Torsen Limited slip differentials. These LSD acts like an open diff without any traction on a wheel but limit lip as soon as there is a minimun traction on one side. Only 1% left is needed. Here you can find an example, even the torsen in the Z3 has a different construction, it's the same effect: th-cam.com/video/JEiSTzK-A2A/w-d-xo.html I myself have this cllicking for over 245.000 km and it's all fine, and it's all only on these torsen diffs not on open or other LSDs. But I never would swap this ever lasting good old torsens to the modern LSDs which loses there function after 80.000 km or 100.000 km. The clicking is from the worm-wheels unlocking/locking.
@Dabo Hi Dabo I also happen to have this clunking issue. I don't mind it as long as it's not damaging to diff or anything else. My Z3 has 200 000km. Do you think I should replace it to keep the car in good condition or is it totally fine to leave as is ? Planning to change the diff and gearbox (5 SPEED MANUAL) oil. What is the recommended oil ? thank you so much for your feedback.
@@D3Sshooter Thanks for the nice video with clear explanation. Would you please explain how to re-build the U-joint! My rear U-jiont has a play and need to be re-build. But it looks like non-re-buildable. Much oblige if you lead me the way.
all that diagnosis ,,, then just replace the lot . Im glad its your car as I wouldnt like to be explaining that to a customer , 50 here and 60 there , new this etc etc still a good video though.
Thanks for the comments, That is indeed what is done today... replace all of it and hope it fixes the problem. Understandable as the labour cost is high. But as an engineer I still believe in proper analysis... I guess I most be old school
Thanks for both Z3 videos. Many years ago I want buy one like this. 2.8 coupe. Then price was about 5000eiro Try burnout. I can bet differential satellite shaft will broke and it broke differential housing.
I have problems had it for years you pull away in first gear and the rear judders loads likes its banging , its very loud. Never found the problem as it only does it now and them,
Thanks for another great vid! So I have a 2001 325i and I replaced the center support bearing and now I'm getting a violent vibration at 28 and 58 mph. Thoughts? I'm thinking u-joints but wanna be sure prior to removing again. I'm working off my gravel driveway.
When you separated the prop shaft, did you mark it and put it back on the same spline position? The two halves of the prop shaft are usually balanced as one assembly. If you change the orientation you will put it out of balance. BMW marks them with white dots that you may still be able to see.
My 2003 E36 218i touring has a violent shake when I take off and on hard accelerations, I think it might be the center bearing becaus I can see the front rubber thing and it looks alright. ideas?
I have the exact same issue after following your steps. What parts are you going to replace and where are you getting them? Thanks in advance! This has been driving me nuts!
Well in my case the diff is the main issue, and one half shaft that has a little bit of play on the inner CV joint. The main driveshaft + flex disc and central bearing turned out to be OK. So, I am replacing the diff with a reconditioned diff. Note that these diff's ( 188) have for the Coupe 2.8 and 3ltr a standard Limited Slip Differential ( 25%) and that is often the weak point... I am getting a reconditioned diffunit from Hardeman sports parts in the Nederlands. Video will follow Good luck with yours....
My M-coupe makes like a fibrating clunking sound everytime I press the clutch to change gear... I changed the flex disc but that wasn't it unfortunately. Any ideas? Thank you!
Thank you for your reply. I doubt it since both clutch and flywheel have been replaced. Also the subframe has been strengthened... my guess is either the driveshaft or the driveshaft support bearing but just thinking out loud... Love the video and thank you again! Enjoy your coupe! :-)
I have a e46 and im having a cluncking issue too mine sounds like the sound cluncks multiple times (like its bouncing) when releasing the clutch in gear. And it has me crazy
Thanks for the comments, Indeed almost all have that fault . It is as some say the signature of the car. A bit of clunking is OK, some really have am issue with the limited slip diff. Will see when the diff is reconditioned... Good luck with yours
Dang. I dont think I can live with that. My 1.9 Z3 is making that clacking sound when I release the clutch and I feel like something made out of metal is gonna break. U joints and center bearing are excellent and the flex disc is new.
And here is million dollar question, can driveshaft be replaced without dropping exhaust 100%? Of course, I'm talking about these 4 screws. Would it be possible to unscrew exhaust from the back and then just let it hanging (of course, you'd put some kind of support, so exhaust doesn't fall off to the ground). You could gain enough clearance to replace the drive shaft (maybe 1 feet or 2). The screws on my car, actually those nuts are not recognizable anymore (rust is everywhere). So, I don't want to mess around with that, because I know if I try to unscrew them, it might create bigger problems. So, what do you think, would that be possible (replacing drive shaft without unscrewing these 4 exhaust screws)?
![[Eng Sub] BMW E46 Flex disc (guibo) and drive shaft center support bearing replacement DIY](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cUH9_4Zm9Xg/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Eng Sub] BMW E46 Flex disc (guibo) and drive shaft center support bearing replacement DIY](/img/tr.png)
This guy is like the BMW Z3 whisperer. I have an E36 and have learned so much from this channel. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world!
Thanks for watching!
Love your videos, you always explain everything so clearly and precisely. Very informative and easy to follow. You explain all the possible problems and how to address them. Please keep up the great work!
Thanks for the comments
I see your STP shirt, when i was a kid in the US an STP sticker on your minibike, go-cart, bicycle, etc meant you were the man.😊
Great video! Very well explained. I own exactly the same car. Beware when you order parts for the diff. The diff is not an open diff on a Z3 coupe. It has a 25%torsen diff. The direction of the wheel counter and clockwise will look like an open diff. But have a 25% lsd under the load from the driveshaft.
Play inside the dual mass flywheel is also a common clunking issue.
Thanks for the comments. Indeed that is correct. Its a LSD. I get a reconditioned unit from hardeman sports oarts in two weeks. I will make a video on it soon.
Enjoyed this video and presentation.
I can now deal with my own car with this added information.
Really enjoyed your video, the clunk from the drive train on my Z3 is very annoying on an otherwise lovely car!
I find all your videos very interesting and educational. Thank you for making the effort to produce them.
Thanks for the comments Richard
Excellent video. Great to see how you systematically rule out different sources to the problem. People new to mechanical engineering can learn a lot!
Thanks for the comments
This was an extremely halpful and well made video, it gave me alot of insite on my problem. Thank you very much!
Good video this, very common on the Z3's here in the UK we always find its the diff but can be two causes, Main cause is the preload in the crush sleeve and secondly play in the LSD unit itself.
Thanks for the comments Lee, Indeed... I decided to get a reconditioned unit from Hardeman with a LSD
@@D3Sshooter next you should open up your old diff. Can be done with basic tools.
Thanks for sharing this knowledge!! Helped me out a 1000%!!!!!
happy to do so
This may sound silly, but this is where a towel comes in handy. When trying to chase down a sound, Wrap and pack the towel around the item you are checking. If the sound is the same, then it's not that part (as the towel would dampen the sound a bit). If the sound changes however, you have either found the problem, or it's connected very closely. If it was the diff for example, wrap the towel around the diff and re-test. The sound from inside the diff would travel to the casing which would then be dampened. Genuinely, sounded stupid as hell when my old friend recommended it 20 years ago but it has not served me wrong since - although the towel is now filthy.
Fantastic video,loud and clear!
Hans van leersum.
Glad you enjoyed it
I enjoyed this and I don't even have a BMW. Might look to change that, despite the possible clunking
Awesome video 👍hello from Kazakhstan 🇰🇿 love my z3 😍👍
Thanks for watching!
it is a CV axle . I used a piece wood between my year and suspect area to amplify the sound to determine. Love your analyses.
We always change the "lifetime oil". Unfortunately they left out the drain plug on the differential on this model. Sucking off is better than leaving the old one in. And we even completely change the servo oil and the atf container with a filter inside. The "lifetime oil" in the servo must also be removed and then everything lasts forever. Lifetime is not 4ever only 6-8 years approx. Nice video with the test method Steve BR Olaf
Thanks for the comments Steve, I agree "life Time" is certainly nit 22 years. What oil do you use ? Red Tulip ? It seems that mine has a drain and fill plug.. Have not looked very close, but it seems like its two hex inbus bolds
@@D3Sshooter Hi Steve, for the diff we use Rowe HIGHTEC TOPGEAR SAE 75W-90 S. For the engine Valvoline 0W-40 SynPower and for the gearbox and the servo Castrol Transmax-Z. The drain plug is a magnetic screw from "gold plug usa" and the engine oil drain plug also. The screws are great and you wonder what is being fished out with. For the gearbox we use a bmw genuine drain plug it`s with magnet it´s conical. I hope it´s the right part number M24X1,5
23 11 7 546 876 Greetings Olaf
@@General813 Thanks a lot Olaf....
Great video!!!! Thank you for sharing uour knowledge 🙏
The limited slip differential check only works on early non ASC cars with the 25% 'plate' LSD. From 1998 the 2.8 and later the 3.0 used a TorSen (torque sensing) LSD that does not lock up like a plate LSD. Without torque applied it just behaves like an open diff.
Sorry for the late reply , as i was away for work. But thanks for the comments.
thanks for your video! very helpfull. Wait to see more in a future video.
More to come!
Will be getting our new Z4 soon, it was made on June 20. Like this series.
Good choice and good luck
Interesting to see under there. Nice video. I can relate since my trucks make similar clunks. Did not know the Z3 came in coupe style as well, I only saw the roadster locally. One comment is that I have been extremely pleased with using a mechanic's stethoscope when trying to find noises. It's really uncanny how much that amplifies things, I can easily pinpoint which cylinder makes the odd noise etc. Very effective, and a chinese one is only $10/e or so. For pros they have radio-operated microphones you can stick with magnets under the car for test drives, but that is probably generally overkill for us peons. You might want to see if you can fix any excess diff backlash yourself, it's sometimes not as difficult as it may seem at first. Good luck with the fix!
Thanks for the comments and write-up. Very good tips on the magnetic microphones. I do have a stethoscope , maybe I should have used it...
Hi, Mr , i don't know your name, please to see your videos, are wonderfull, I lived in woluwe Saint Lambert,now in Colombia, My Z3 has noise in the diferential like a buzzing that begins at 50 kms and harder with the higher speed, unconfortable noise. I did revision and retight all the bults ,change the lub for
The original liqui molly 75 w 140 with any success
Dime mecs Say that si the Crank and the crown , what can I do?
id say its backlash in the differential, older landrovers had that, id say there is some wear in bearings or the diff has not had enough preload put on it when assembled.
Yes indeed , that is the issue and the part that will be replaced. I had the same on my defender but there it was the half shafts
@@D3Sshooter edit: i hadn't realized that was an E36,a few years old... time to check the diff gear oil on mine (1995 318 tds, diesel...) lol
Nice video; what a shame, hadn't seen bad diffs in decades!! my 1992 (Opel) Monterey ,Isuzu trooper 3.1 TD with 300000 kms has the diff,engine,gearboxes,A/C(never a leak!!!) etc like new; the posi rear works like in the day it was born,never a repair except the P/S pump last year; even the Alternator still has the original brushes and copper rings...amazing --but i know they will need to be replaced soon lol
Very well explained and comprehensive video. Thank you for this demonstration!
Love this video.. i have same problem like that.. but with another abnormal sound when shifting to gear pos 1 or R.. but no abnormal sound when the car move..
Thanks for the comments
why dont you remove the driveshaft from the differential in the first place?
Thank you, extremely informative, thank you for your contribution to my knowledge of all things mechanical :)
Thank you for making this Video! Bless you!
Once you did all that, did it solve the problem ?
I did for me
I had a 1929 Oldsmobile which had flexible driving discs like these. It was a beast of a car, they lasted about 9 months before they needed replacement, not a difficult job though because the poor boards cold be quickly removed to gain access.
Have we come very far in 90 years???
Stavros
Thanks for the comments,
Great video! Thank you!!
Thank you
Great lighting and greater info!
Hi your videos are amazing. I was wondering, I have the same issue on my z3 but d'ont have the time to work on it at the moment. What are the consequences of keeping driving the car with this problem ? thank you
Well that depends on the actual issue... in each case it will get worse over time and might snap things. If the diff rubber is gone , then it can sheer the connections to the chassis. If its the diff itself `internal' , then it will destroy the diff over time .. all that can take a long time... but still its something you don't want to have
@@D3Sshooter Thank you so much I appreciate it
I have a u joint clunk. No one sells it and it is apparently "not replaceable" what would you do if it was your Z? Thank you for your time
Thank you! This was a great video - high quality production (are you a film professional?) and useful information.
Very helpful thank you so much!
ma x prima non hai controllato i giunti semiassi ruota ???? se stavano in ordine ??
Nice job to detect the noice
Don't be sure you don't have a limited slip diff. These good old Z3 with 2.8L engines often have Torsen Limited slip differentials. These LSD acts like an open diff without any traction on a wheel but limit lip as soon as there is a minimun traction on one side. Only 1% left is needed. Here you can find an example, even the torsen in the Z3 has a different construction, it's the same effect: th-cam.com/video/JEiSTzK-A2A/w-d-xo.html
I myself have this cllicking for over 245.000 km and it's all fine, and it's all only on these torsen diffs not on open or other LSDs. But I never would swap this ever lasting good old torsens to the modern LSDs which loses there function after 80.000 km or 100.000 km. The clicking is from the worm-wheels unlocking/locking.
Thanks for the comments, I did have one , when checked in the shop later
@Dabo Hi Dabo I also happen to have this clunking issue. I don't mind it as long as it's not damaging to diff or anything else. My Z3 has 200 000km. Do you think I should replace it to keep the car in good condition or is it totally fine to leave as is ? Planning to change the diff and gearbox (5 SPEED MANUAL) oil. What is the recommended oil ? thank you so much for your feedback.
are we going to see a sort of series with this car?
Potentially yes, especially on the maintenance and repairs, bit all the rest goes on as well
Very good explanation
Hello, I have the same problem with my 2.8 z3 Roadster.
finally, what was the result after repairing the differential?
Thank you so much!!
At the end it was the torsten slip differential that had to be replaced/rebuild....
This is high quality and very educational. I’m having issues with my driveshaft u-joints. Can they be rebuilt?
Yes you can
@@D3Sshooter Thanks for the nice video with clear explanation. Would you please explain how to re-build the U-joint! My rear U-jiont has a play and need to be re-build. But it looks like non-re-buildable. Much oblige if you lead me the way.
all that diagnosis ,,, then just replace the lot .
Im glad its your car as I wouldnt like to be explaining that to a customer , 50 here and 60 there , new this etc etc
still a good video though.
Thanks for the comments, That is indeed what is done today... replace all of it and hope it fixes the problem. Understandable as the labour cost is high. But as an engineer I still believe in proper analysis... I guess I most be old school
@@D3Sshooter not enough of the old school types left ,, but replace the lots an expensive way ,, didnt you find the actual problem ??
Great video
Thank you
Thanks for both Z3 videos. Many years ago I want buy one like this. 2.8 coupe. Then price was about 5000eiro
Try burnout. I can bet differential satellite shaft will broke and it broke differential housing.
Thanks for the comments
I get shutter noise when turning off with trootle comes from the rear more likely left side could he axle bushes as there split ?
I have problems had it for years you pull away in first gear and the rear judders loads likes its banging , its very loud. Never found the problem as it only does it now and them,
I hav e that problem with m3 e46 should I buy a used diff or can it be fix
You can get a recon unit, that is what I have done
Thanks for another great vid! So I have a 2001 325i and I replaced the center support bearing and now I'm getting a violent vibration at 28 and 58 mph. Thoughts? I'm thinking u-joints but wanna be sure prior to removing again. I'm working off my gravel driveway.
When you separated the prop shaft, did you mark it and put it back on the same spline position? The two halves of the prop shaft are usually balanced as one assembly. If you change the orientation you will put it out of balance.
BMW marks them with white dots that you may still be able to see.
My 2003 E36 218i touring has a violent shake when I take off and on hard accelerations, I think it might be the center bearing becaus I can see the front rubber thing and it looks alright. ideas?
I have the exact same issue after following your steps. What parts are you going to replace and where are you getting them? Thanks in advance! This has been driving me nuts!
Well in my case the diff is the main issue, and one half shaft that has a little bit of play on the inner CV joint. The main driveshaft + flex disc and central bearing turned out to be OK. So, I am replacing the diff with a reconditioned diff. Note that these diff's ( 188) have for the Coupe 2.8 and 3ltr a standard Limited Slip Differential ( 25%) and that is often the weak point... I am getting a reconditioned diffunit from Hardeman sports parts in the Nederlands.
Video will follow
Good luck with yours....
My M-coupe makes like a fibrating clunking sound everytime I press the clutch to change gear... I changed the flex disc but that wasn't it unfortunately. Any ideas? Thank you!
I would think a faulty clutch system, pressure plate etc..
Thank you for your reply. I doubt it since both clutch and flywheel have been replaced. Also the subframe has been strengthened... my guess is either the driveshaft or the driveshaft support bearing but just thinking out loud... Love the video and thank you again! Enjoy your coupe! :-)
Hi Dave, how many kilometers does have the car?
Mine has 119000Km , not sure if you were asking me
I have a e46 and im having a cluncking issue too mine sounds like the sound cluncks multiple times (like its bouncing) when releasing the clutch in gear. And it has me crazy
Either look at the center bearings of the driveshaft or at the bushings holding the diff in place
Differential with a lock would be a nice upgrade
Yes , indeed... There is a shop in the Nederlands that I am in contact with that provides recondition and LSD differentials
Great Z3 videos! Let us know how you continue to fix the diff!
I own a Z3 Coupe 3.0i
Regards
Thanks for the comments, i sure will. Next up is the replacement of the diff with a LSD type and new bushes
great video Steve...with the diff itself, would it sound that metallic? as it would be full of diff oil..worn driveshaft?
Thanks for the comments, it turned out that even the oil level was low and the torsen LSD was worn
Hi gent, I know this car perfectly, I own a 3l roadster... Disclamer : this noise is normal : all Z3s make it 😉
Ciao !
Thanks for the comments, Indeed almost all have that fault . It is as some say the signature of the car. A bit of clunking is OK, some really have am issue with the limited slip diff. Will see when the diff is reconditioned... Good luck with yours
Dang. I dont think I can live with that. My 1.9 Z3 is making that clacking sound when I release the clutch and I feel like something made out of metal is gonna break.
U joints and center bearing are excellent and the flex disc is new.
Is the differential the same as in the normal E36? Then it would be easy to upgrade it to an LS differential.
This one is the 188 diff with a 3.15 ratio and a standard 25 % LSD.
Thank YOU!
Thanks for the comments
Bom trabalho
We want Rusty!
Me too , Thanks for the comments
Me too, it's been a long wait (but we learned a lot of other stuff in the meantime)
Hier se een medebelg, ik ben toevaliig op zoek naar een z3 2.8 kom ik dit tegen.
aaa jaa, wij zitten overal he..
First 👍 💯
hahaha, yes indeed .. congrats...
Thanks Steve 👍
Seems like a lot of work and crying over a little Clunking sound. How about just drive the car and turn on the raido if the sound bothers you.
we can all hear the clunking..fix it for christ's sake
yep , that is what we will do
5n
absolutely useless!!
Your comment ? yes
@@D3Sshooter you are!
And here is million dollar question, can driveshaft be replaced without dropping exhaust 100%? Of course, I'm talking about these 4 screws. Would it be possible to unscrew exhaust from the back and then just let it hanging (of course, you'd put some kind of support, so exhaust doesn't fall off to the ground). You could gain enough clearance to replace the drive shaft (maybe 1 feet or 2). The screws on my car, actually those nuts are not recognizable anymore (rust is everywhere). So, I don't want to mess around with that, because I know if I try to unscrew them, it might create bigger problems. So, what do you think, would that be possible (replacing drive shaft without unscrewing these 4 exhaust screws)?
17:20 legend