This video will show you the source of the Clunking or Thumping sound from the rear end of your BMW E46. The two main issues could be the Rear Differential Bushing, or the Rear Subframe Mount.
Thanks guy's, this is exactly what I need. I am about to do exacrly this on my e36 estate. Perfect level of detail and shots of prosedure. Excellent, More BMW vids please! Good job. The best series of videos for this prosedure I have found on TH-cam.....
Thank you Bill !!!! I do have a couple more updates filmed that I just haven't had the time to edit. Be patient with the process, have fun, and you will find it very rewarding when done. It is a big job, you just have to tackle it piece by piece. There is some procedure downloads (PDF) in the description section below each video that you might find of some value (maybe not). Best of luck with yours!!!!!
Thank you! It was a big job and unfortunately most E36 and E46 chassis will experience this at some time. Those three little spot welds were just an incredible weak point. Cheers!
Great video, my mechanic told me the subframe issue depends on what type of transmission because of the amount of torque being sent to the rear when I asked him about my GM 5L 325i rear frame. He said the manual E46 and SMG M3 are the main suspects for the issue. He had a 323i in white where the frame had a huge crack on the driver side from the amounts of hard shifting and torque being sent to the diff in the high rpms...
Great Video! That is an awesome repair. I had always heard that if the sub frame mount tore out of the car sheet metal like that the repair was extremely difficult but you made the repair look easy! BMW got sued over this issue, but the time you could bring your car in and have them fix it was short and it has passed.
Thanks for watching. Hope if you are in the same situation, you can figure out the best approach to solving yours. With it being such a time consuming repair, I can see why BMW offered a short window for coverage. They didn't want to do it.
Unbelievable. I just found the problem. :) I took everything out of the trunk, even the spare wheel. There was nothing in there but I kept hearing the thump on every acceleration and braking. Nothing in there except the battery. Then.... it hit me. What if the fucking battery is moving forward and back making the thump? :) :) Yep. It was the battery. What a relief. Before going crazy, check the battery guys.
I had an E46 with the 1.9 liter engine and even that managed to crack the subframe mounting points. I wonder what the engineers were smoking when they designed that panel.
It all starts when the 3 spot welds break on that Subframe mount. So even if you do not see the break through that we experienced, you could still have this overall issue. Good luck with yours!!!!
I replaced the bearing on mine and after i did the disc seems to scrap with the break pads it lives a about half inch mark where it hits. Anybody have a idea or is it a alignment issue ?
Hey man thank you for this video. I’m going to look at a 2002 325ci manual which has had a lot of work done with paper work and service records to back it so I hope this problem has already been addressed or will wait long enough for me to have the money to fix it.. anyways I’ve done a ton of research and forums searching on these cars before deciding to even go look at the car. It seems kinda scary and overwhelming to try and get this car considering all the things to be weary of but I’m confident in my mechanic skills and from the research that I’ll be able to look for major problems and decide if I want the car. I’ve never owned anything other than trucks and SUV’s. I have wanted to get into a car for a very long time and I love these bmws an life’s to short to not have fun so why not 🤷🏻♂️ just thought I’d say thanks for helping in my research. Like I said idk if you’re still active but I’m going to look at the car tomorrow, If I end up getting it I’ll leave a reply 🤙🏼
They are fun to drive and relatively easy to work on. If you are looking at the E46 body, I hope it has had this fix applied. It appears to be common. As with BMWs of this age, there are a lot of plastic parts that have run their life span. The plastic gets brittle. The radiator expansion Tanks exploded on us... easy fix. Have to be careful all around the engine with the hard plastic hoses. They break easily... easy to fix. Have fun with yours. Cheers!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks man I end up getting it, checked absolutely everything, and it had records from a bmw dealer and certified bmw shops with almost everything that typically goes wrong already replaced and basically it’s been kept up on maintenance. It’s a very fun car to drive and I absolutely love it. Got big plans for it
Major rear end overhaul. You did a good job. I can take the mechanical part, but I am too green on the welding piece. I hear a clunk on mine but is when I release the brake. Any suggestions? I just got the car 3 weeks ago and have only driven it to work once. I did a complete cooling system overhaul since it had an annoying leak and will drive it to work next week. I suspect the front end needs new control arm bushings since I can move the front tires a little. But the sound comes from the rear.
I just recently posted a front control arm bushing replacement video. That is an easy fix. And a common problem. That fix really improved the drive of the car. As far as the noise from the rear... The thumping that I was experiencing was a result of the 3 spot weld failures (noted in the second half of Part 3 of this series). This failure is a result of stress from the torque placed on the Subframe. Due to direction, it will fail on the left rear side first. Releasing the brake is a different stress. Since it sounds like it is a repeatable issue, can you mount a camera or walk along side the car to help identify the location of the sound. Could be Brakes or Differential, hard to tell from the brief description. My next project for this car is a Thermostat and Water Pump. Good luck with yours!
hi, great video ! did yiu have same problem from lets say third gear to second or theoretically from second to first ? asking because trying to diagnose very same problem in my car ( i30 2015 52000 miles ) clunk from 1st gear to 2nd more less every time when I change gears, and I think based on your video, this could be the problem.. or worst case scenario something wrong in transmission ? synchro maybe... thanks!
I'm suspecting something similar on my '82 Galant. Maybe just a shot bushing since it's not quite as bad. Going to do this tomorrow to see if the diff has excessive play. Thanks for the video!
i have a clunk sound but didn't get it until after I got my new control arm kit installed, do you think its because it wasn't lubed ? even got new tires mounted and balance and alignment and can still hear the clank/noise from the center of the car
A lot of time it depends on What you are doing when the sounds appears. Shifting, accelerating, letting off the gas, etc. I can think of anything related to "installing mew control arms" that would generate clunking sounds.
Is this car AWD? My X3 has a bit of a clunk but I think if I jack up the rear to diagnose the fronts will pull the car forward, no? Maybe disconnecting the centre diff would prevent that though?
The car in this video is a Rear Wheel Drive car. In your case, you would need to put the front of the car on jack stands to get the front wheels off the ground.
It could be about anything. Check out the Rear mount on your front lower control arm. It is my understanding that they often go bad. I have also replaced them on this car.
Hey! Thanks for the video. This was interesting to watch and informative. Please read my issue and see if you can assist with diagnosis.... I'm having issues with what seems to be my transmission banging in the first two gears. It also does it when I put the car in drive or reverse from the Park position. Car seems smooth once I'm up to speed and driving. The "bang" that I'm hearing makes me feel that I've been rear ended from behind. Also, I feel like the transmission isn't secure. Almost like its loose. Hope this helps. I need HELP with this If I accelerate and then take my foot off the gas, I then too feel the "bang" sensation. It's annoying and I know it can be fixed, just don't know what to do. HELP PLEASE. Tranny has been totally rebuilt but I still get the "banging" sensation when taking my foot off the accelerator. Any information would be helpful.
This maybe too difficult for me to solve without seeing it. But like any diagnosis, your approach needs to start with 1) Divide and Conquer. Use a camera and or someone sitting in the back seat to help identify the location of the noise. Is it the Transmission, or something around the Rear-end? Maybe like I did, you could lift the vehicle and video what's going on under the car. BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU TRY THIS!!!! My initial Thumping was directly due to the failure of 3 spot welds that are completely hidden from view (See: my video Clunk Part 3 @ 14:38). This failure ultimately resulted in more damage and additional chassis failure. The noise (Thump) that I was hearing was the "Tin Can" effect of the chassis metal flexing (and ultimately failing). I have another viewer that has a clunk sound and his turned out to be internal Differential gear issues. It sounds like you have an automatic transmission. If the sound can easily be repeated by changing from Park to Drive, have someone do that while you maneuver around the car sourcing the sound (BE CAREFUL!!!!)
So my question got you, is this issue was recreated by just giving it gas right? My hellcat is having an issue with rear end clunking but I believe it’s shocks but don’t want to rule it out.
Ultimately, BMW had a flaw in the design of where the Rear Subframe (a bowed frame that held the rear diff) was mounted to the chassis. There are three little spot welds that support this area (very weak). Ours failed from ordinary driving, like so many other owners cars. The problem was exaggerated when my son was teaching a friend to drive a manual car. The friend popped the clutch a little fast and it tore out the mount. If you are able to reproduce the sound at will, you might consider mounting a camera back there to look for movement or other signs. Cheers!
After being through the whole ordeal, I think it all start when the three spot welds (Part3 @ 14:39) fail. Mine happen to escalate beyond that until the chassis also failed. Good luck with your project!!!
Thanks. I think I'll put it up on the stands and see how much it shifts/shimmies when I shift and hold the e brake......Heck I might as well just pull it all out and give it the once over. 192k miles and I just bought it couple months ago.....Thanks again
Every year and every body of the E46 from 2000 on up has the same rear floor and subframe. Do not let anyone tell you the late cars don't have the problem---it is only that they are newer and thus the probability they are cracked is lower simply because the chances are they haven't seen as much use.
My reaction when he took off was a highschool level URMAGAWD WHATAFUH. That noise would have me grounding all flights immediately. I thought my clunk was bad but it's really only when I apply +3/4 throttle above 2500r. I'm fairly certain it is da differential, based on damage I've done and parts I've replaced. If anyone has insight into what e46 differential clunks can sound like, let cha boy in. Best of luck keeping the BMWs rolling boys. Ciao!
with my e46 from 200 it doesn't thumb but it creecks like an old chair only when in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear when you make the car intentionally rock back and forth by applying some throttle and then releasing it so it shocks a bit. Sounds is making me scared I first though it was my gearbox
My issue culminated in the bracket pulling through the bottom sheet metal. It all starts with the 3 spot weld failures that is seen in Part 3 (seen in the little windows that I cut in the trunk). Those three spot weld sill fail first and cannot be seen or detected, then it could continue by ripping out the bottom like mine. Very common problem with the E46. Hope yours is something else!!!!!
Officina Progetto ciclismo Someone has tryed a rivet method is the same that welding, cheaper , and easy like epoxy method. Obviusly only for preventivate not for cracked chassis
I wish I had put together a final video of thoughts. The "problem" that I exposed in this video series... I believe stems from the three spot welds that fail within the structure. There are three spot welds that hold the Bracket (the one you see pulling out of underneath portion of the car) to the inner structure. The initial failure is those welds. You cannot see them. They are internal. But I would imagine when they fail, the sound would start. In my case, not only did the spot weld fail, but the extra stress also allow the bracket to pull through the bottom plate. I would hope no one would allow this to get as far as we did. It caused extra damage. Cheers!
ucandiit2 question for you i have a 03 bmw 325i automatic can this happen to my car i notice when i am in park and shift from reverse to drive i can hear and feel something i looked under the car i dont really see any cranks or anything
I believe it can. The first thing that is going to break is the 3 spot welds that I show inside the trunk. Those welds are not visible without removing metal. Once those welds break, they then flex ( and in my case, break) the bottom sheet metal. If yours does it simply by shifting from reverse to drive. Have someone stand next to the car and see if they can identify where the sound is coming from.
UCanDoIt2 Had all sorts of scenarios going through my head. Your clip is valuable bc most shops will go through a visual inspection using the All Parts sheet as a checklist. Running the motor under load and shooting video should be SOP for the DIYer or people that have burned through diagnosis hours without resolution.
Yeah I have a beater bmw I got for $2000. I replaced the axles, control arms, ball joints, and tie rods cause they did need replacing. I took it too my local mechanic for an alignment and they couldn't get it into spec and they suspect the subframe is bent and after all the stories I'm scared to look this summer. It's a 2004 325xi
It had about 120K on it when this happened. We just sold this car about 2 months ago. My sin upgraded to a 550i (F10) 6 speed manual. Very hard to find. We flew to Chicago to snag this one.
Mine starting clunking this week. I couldn’t find the issue, so I watched your video and noticed the rear bushing is bad. I’m going to watch your tutorials and replace all rear bushings with some harder pu power flex bushings
Very cool!!!! Those original bushings are Extremely hard to get out. Be patient!!!! I have a large vertical press and could not figure out how to fit the subframe into it, so I had to remove them on the floor. Not a fan of the poly bushings, but that is just a personal preference. Glad you figured your issue out! Cheers!!!!
After completing this project and then looking back at the whole issue... I realized that in my situation, the INITIAL failure on mine was the "3 SPOT WELDS" of the SF mounting bracket. Those failed first then the rest just escalated. Unfortunately, you cannot see the spot welds unless you cut the little window in the trunk. Wish there was a good way to diagnose those weld for those that think they have failed. Cheers!!!
Then I’ll drive to my grandparents who own a good mit welder and ask my grandpa if he could help me to strengthen those 3 spotwelds before I remove the subframe. I’ll have an ugly trunk than more problems. Nobody will ever see those two holes there
There was a recall of the rear subframe from BMW. I don't know if it is still in effect. Nice job. www.motortrend.com/news/bmw-settles-3-series-subframe-suit-will-inspect-repair-affected-models-4619/
Maximilian Jankowski It is a shame that these cars experience this issue. They are fun to work On, but this was a large oversight of the engineers. Hope you get yours fixed.
lol lol Not really. So it sounds like you have an automatic. I could possibly see you hearing a clunk when you shift from Park to drive as it would slightly torque the subframe. The rest of my problem and a systematic problem of the E46 is the spot sleds on the little bracket the fell out of mine. Not sure what yours might be since it happens in Park at idle. I believe something different.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Exhaust manifold seal ? Is what people are saying. I Have no idea where to look for that . Lol . Dont know much about exhaust. Im not a profecional mechanic .lol I dont think is camshaft . The noise seems to come from rear of engine near firewall. Its anoying . And engine shakes a bit. Rattle noise . YES 330ci CONVERTIBLE AUTOMATIC 2003 PRE FACELIFT. E46
First thing first... I think it is fantastic that you are at least trying to diagnose your own issue (not being a mechanic) !!!! The Exhaust Manifold is the beginning portion of your Exhaust System. It bolts directly to the Head portion of the engine. There is a Gasket (seal) between the two. Since the issue happens at idle, you might be able to use a camera in small places to try to capture the culprit! Otherwise, you have possible narrowed down the issue enough to get/receive accurate help from a mechanic. Cheers!
By the way... I am not a mechanic either... but like you, I like to try to figure things out and when it becomes apparent that I can fix it myself, I do!!!!
Thanks guy's, this is exactly what I need. I am about to do exacrly this on my e36 estate. Perfect level of detail and shots of prosedure. Excellent, More BMW vids please! Good job. The best series of videos for this prosedure I have found on TH-cam.....
Thank you Bill !!!! I do have a couple more updates filmed that I just haven't had the time to edit. Be patient with the process, have fun, and you will find it very rewarding when done. It is a big job, you just have to tackle it piece by piece. There is some procedure downloads (PDF) in the description section below each video that you might find of some value (maybe not). Best of luck with yours!!!!!
This video series was immensely helpful. Thank you.
Thank you! It was a big job and unfortunately most E36 and E46 chassis will experience this at some time. Those three little spot welds were just an incredible weak point. Cheers!
Great video, my mechanic told me the subframe issue depends on what type of transmission because of the amount of torque being sent to the rear when I asked him about my GM 5L 325i rear frame. He said the manual E46 and SMG M3 are the main suspects for the issue. He had a 323i in white where the frame had a huge crack on the driver side from the amounts of hard shifting and torque being sent to the diff in the high rpms...
How did he fix
What a lovely channel name! I like your attitude and your direct approach.
Thank you!
EXCELLENT videos series! You guys are the best! Keep up the great work! Very helpful!
Thank you for the complement! It was a lot of work but very rewarding!!!!!
Excellent presentation!
Very good narrative Ucan, well done
Great Video! That is an awesome repair. I had always heard that if the sub frame mount tore out of the car sheet metal like that the repair was extremely difficult but you made the repair look easy! BMW got sued over this issue, but the time you could bring your car in and have them fix it was short and it has passed.
Can you still do it for free if you buy a used one?
Thanks for watching. Hope if you are in the same situation, you can figure out the best approach to solving yours. With it being such a time consuming repair, I can see why BMW offered a short window for coverage. They didn't want to do it.
best clear video demonstrating the clunk. SUBSCRIBED
Thanks!!!! Hope it helps if you have that issue. Cheers!
Great Video and exaustive explanation ! thank you so much!
Great great videos you make, very helpful, I just bought a 2004 zhp 6speed hopefully the frame is good.
Dude, these videos are so great! thanks so much for putting these together. They are very educational
I appreciate the feedback. It was an interesting project and fun to share!
Thanks for your DIY...will definitely help when doing on mine ..liked and subbed.Cheers.
Thank you and have fun with yours.... be patient!!!!
Awsome detailed and very educational. E60 has same issues. Now I know how to get under my hoid and "FIX IT MYSELF". THANK YOU!!!
Excellent! Thanks for the feedback, best of luck and have fun with yours!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I will do the best effort. Encourage to do a before and after shoot. Will educate myself in that projext. Thank you. God bless.
Thank you This was very helpful I have a 2004 325i E46 and I'm thinking that I need to do this entire setup as well
It is very common and a flaw in the engineering of the chassis. Best of luck with yours.
Unbelievable. I just found the problem. :) I took everything out of the trunk, even the spare wheel. There was nothing in there but I kept hearing the thump on every acceleration and braking. Nothing in there except the battery. Then.... it hit me. What if the fucking battery is moving forward and back making the thump? :) :) Yep. It was the battery. What a relief. Before going crazy, check the battery guys.
Thanks for the video brother great information
Thank you for the feedback! Cheers!
I had an E46 with the 1.9 liter engine and even that managed to crack the subframe mounting points. I wonder what the engineers were smoking when they designed that panel.
Javier Messías I agree. Those three spot welds had no chance of creating a strong solution.
That sounds like the knocking sound i have on the rear of my e46 m3! Only on first, second and sometimes third gear! Thank you!
It all starts when the 3 spot welds break on that Subframe mount. So even if you do not see the break through that we experienced, you could still have this overall issue. Good luck with yours!!!!
Shit might as well weld my diff when I’m down there fixing this.. my 02 325ci is doing this first, second gear under certain load
Where did you get the kit from?
Thanks for sharing this video.
Hope you found it useful! Cheers... Mike
Amazing work?? Thank you.
do you thing E39 have the same problem too ?
I replaced the bearing on mine and after i did the disc seems to scrap with the break pads it lives a about half inch mark where it hits. Anybody have a idea or is it a alignment issue ?
Hey man thank you for this video. I’m going to look at a 2002 325ci manual which has had a lot of work done with paper work and service records to back it so I hope this problem has already been addressed or will wait long enough for me to have the money to fix it.. anyways I’ve done a ton of research and forums searching on these cars before deciding to even go look at the car. It seems kinda scary and overwhelming to try and get this car considering all the things to be weary of but I’m confident in my mechanic skills and from the research that I’ll be able to look for major problems and decide if I want the car. I’ve never owned anything other than trucks and SUV’s. I have wanted to get into a car for a very long time and I love these bmws an life’s to short to not have fun so why not 🤷🏻♂️ just thought I’d say thanks for helping in my research.
Like I said idk if you’re still active but I’m going to look at the car tomorrow, If I end up getting it I’ll leave a reply 🤙🏼
They are fun to drive and relatively easy to work on. If you are looking at the E46 body, I hope it has had this fix applied. It appears to be common. As with BMWs of this age, there are a lot of plastic parts that have run their life span. The plastic gets brittle. The radiator expansion Tanks exploded on us... easy fix. Have to be careful all around the engine with the hard plastic hoses. They break easily... easy to fix. Have fun with yours. Cheers!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks man I end up getting it, checked absolutely everything, and it had records from a bmw dealer and certified bmw shops with almost everything that typically goes wrong already replaced and basically it’s been kept up on maintenance. It’s a very fun car to drive and I absolutely love it. Got big plans for it
Major rear end overhaul. You did a good job. I can take the mechanical part, but I am too green on the welding piece. I hear a clunk on mine but is when I release the brake. Any suggestions? I just got the car 3 weeks ago and have only driven it to work once. I did a complete cooling system overhaul since it had an annoying leak and will drive it to work next week. I suspect the front end needs new control arm bushings since I can move the front tires a little. But the sound comes from the rear.
I just recently posted a front control arm bushing replacement video. That is an easy fix. And a common problem. That fix really improved the drive of the car. As far as the noise from the rear... The thumping that I was experiencing was a result of the 3 spot weld failures (noted in the second half of Part 3 of this series). This failure is a result of stress from the torque placed on the Subframe. Due to direction, it will fail on the left rear side first. Releasing the brake is a different stress. Since it sounds like it is a repeatable issue, can you mount a camera or walk along side the car to help identify the location of the sound. Could be Brakes or Differential, hard to tell from the brief description. My next project for this car is a Thermostat and Water Pump. Good luck with yours!
I just finished that, it is an easy job. Thanks.
hi, great video ! did yiu have same problem from lets say third gear to second or theoretically from second to first ? asking because trying to diagnose very same problem in my car ( i30 2015 52000 miles ) clunk from 1st gear to 2nd more less every time when I change gears, and I think based on your video, this could be the problem.. or worst case scenario something wrong in transmission ? synchro maybe... thanks!
It was most noticeable in the lower gears 1 and 2 where there is more torque.
what would happen eventually if you don't fix it?
Thank you
I'm suspecting something similar on my '82 Galant. Maybe just a shot bushing since it's not quite as bad. Going to do this tomorrow to see if the diff has excessive play. Thanks for the video!
Hope you get it figured out. Cheers!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike
Hey thanks. I checked the mounts and they looked fine. Starting to look like the gearbox is the culprit.
My BMW x3 2.5l doing just like that you think this 3 bushing need to replace ?
Truthfully, it could be a number of things. You definitely need to have it checked out. Something is loose and will only cause more damage over time.
very well done.
Thank you for the feedback!
Very helpful... thanks😏
Glad you found it useful! Best of luck with yours!!!
Omfg yasss!!! I thought it was my rear diff or something low on oil thank you man
Glad it helped! Makes it worth it when it helps someone. Cheers!
LOL! I would rather it be my diff because it's a real pain to reinforce the sub frame. I am getting ready to do mine.
i have a clunk sound but didn't get it until after I got my new control arm kit installed, do you think its because it wasn't lubed ? even got new tires mounted and balance and alignment and can still hear the clank/noise from the center of the car
A lot of time it depends on What you are doing when the sounds appears. Shifting, accelerating, letting off the gas, etc. I can think of anything related to "installing mew control arms" that would generate clunking sounds.
ill try today and see when it does make the sound, thank you
If it’s at the center it may be time to look at your driveshaft flex disc and carrier bearing
Is this car AWD? My X3 has a bit of a clunk but I think if I jack up the rear to diagnose the fronts will pull the car forward, no? Maybe disconnecting the centre diff would prevent that though?
The car in this video is a Rear Wheel Drive car. In your case, you would need to put the front of the car on jack stands to get the front wheels off the ground.
You sir are a Legend thank you 👍
Glad that you found it useful. Best of luck with yours!!!!
I have that exact same noise, but it's coming from the front left of the car. could it be a wheel bearing? or CV joint?
It could be about anything. Check out the Rear mount on your front lower control arm. It is my understanding that they often go bad. I have also replaced them on this car.
Hello when you started your engine I heard your engine has a fluttering noise mine is the same you know what that is?
Not off the top of my head. I will check to see if I hear it the next time I drive it. Sorry.
شكرا جزيلا تحياتي لك من المغرب
سعيد لأنك وجدتها مفيدة. شكرا لك على التواصل. نأمل أن تجعل ترجمة Google هذا الصوت صحيحًا. هتافات!
Hey! Thanks for the video. This was interesting to watch and informative. Please read my issue and see if you can assist with diagnosis....
I'm having issues with what seems to be my transmission banging in the first two gears. It also does it when I put the car in drive or reverse from the Park position. Car seems smooth once I'm up to speed and driving. The "bang" that I'm hearing makes me feel that I've been rear ended from behind. Also, I feel like the transmission isn't secure. Almost like its loose. Hope this helps. I need HELP with this
If I accelerate and then take my foot off the gas, I then too feel the "bang" sensation. It's annoying and I know it can be fixed, just don't know what to do. HELP PLEASE. Tranny has been totally rebuilt but I still get the "banging" sensation when taking my foot off the accelerator. Any information would be helpful.
This maybe too difficult for me to solve without seeing it. But like any diagnosis, your approach needs to start with 1) Divide and Conquer. Use a camera and or someone sitting in the back seat to help identify the location of the noise. Is it the Transmission, or something around the Rear-end? Maybe like I did, you could lift the vehicle and video what's going on under the car. BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU TRY THIS!!!! My initial Thumping was directly due to the failure of 3 spot welds that are completely hidden from view (See: my video Clunk Part 3 @ 14:38). This failure ultimately resulted in more damage and additional chassis failure. The noise (Thump) that I was hearing was the "Tin Can" effect of the chassis metal flexing (and ultimately failing). I have another viewer that has a clunk sound and his turned out to be internal Differential gear issues. It sounds like you have an automatic transmission. If the sound can easily be repeated by changing from Park to Drive, have someone do that while you maneuver around the car sourcing the sound (BE CAREFUL!!!!)
So my question got you, is this issue was recreated by just giving it gas right? My hellcat is having an issue with rear end clunking but I believe it’s shocks but don’t want to rule it out.
Ultimately, BMW had a flaw in the design of where the Rear Subframe (a bowed frame that held the rear diff) was mounted to the chassis. There are three little spot welds that support this area (very weak). Ours failed from ordinary driving, like so many other owners cars. The problem was exaggerated when my son was teaching a friend to drive a manual car. The friend popped the clutch a little fast and it tore out the mount. If you are able to reproduce the sound at will, you might consider mounting a camera back there to look for movement or other signs. Cheers!
Seu vídeo podia ter tradução para português Brasil
I have the "clunk", "thump"........Subbed!!!
After being through the whole ordeal, I think it all start when the three spot welds (Part3 @ 14:39) fail. Mine happen to escalate beyond that until the chassis also failed. Good luck with your project!!!
Thanks. I think I'll put it up on the stands and see how much it shifts/shimmies when I shift and hold the e brake......Heck I might as well just pull it all out and give it the once over. 192k miles and I just bought it couple months ago.....Thanks again
Sounds good! These cars are very easy to work on. Parts are not that expensive and you can save a lot doing it yourself. Cheers!
What could it be
Is this common even on 04 and 05 330s? Any one with those years had any issue?
Every year and every body of the E46 from 2000 on up has the same rear floor and subframe. Do not let anyone tell you the late cars don't have the problem---it is only that they are newer and thus the probability they are cracked is lower simply because the chances are they haven't seen as much use.
My reaction when he took off was a highschool level URMAGAWD WHATAFUH. That noise would have me grounding all flights immediately.
I thought my clunk was bad but it's really only when I apply +3/4 throttle above 2500r. I'm fairly certain it is da differential, based on damage I've done and parts I've replaced. If anyone has insight into what e46 differential clunks can sound like, let cha boy in.
Best of luck keeping the BMWs rolling boys. Ciao!
OMG
Mine is a minor thump but only in 1st but damn I never knew it can get that bad 😭
with my e46 from 200 it doesn't thumb but it creecks like an old chair only when in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear when you make the car intentionally rock back and forth by applying some throttle and then releasing it so it shocks a bit. Sounds is making me scared I first though it was my gearbox
If you cant find the source, you may need to have it looked at by a mechanic.
Question for you I was driving and I have a yellow engine light on do u know what that could be
You will need a diagnostics plugged into your car to get the code read
Probably your engine
@@masonchrystie bruh
thanks you i will have to check this on my e46.... noise started when i removed the muffler tho :S
My issue culminated in the bracket pulling through the bottom sheet metal. It all starts with the 3 spot weld failures that is seen in Part 3 (seen in the little windows that I cut in the trunk). Those three spot weld sill fail first and cannot be seen or detected, then it could continue by ripping out the bottom like mine. Very common problem with the E46. Hope yours is something else!!!!!
sounds like my current issue, what was the total costs for parts?
For both the Bushings and Reinforcement Kit, I believe it was between $350 and $400.
$350 because he did it himself 😆
Officina Progetto ciclismo
Someone has tryed a rivet method is the same that welding, cheaper , and easy like epoxy method.
Obviusly only for preventivate not for cracked chassis
I also have a thump on mine. But it's not a cracked floor or bad bushings they are al new. I think it is a bad diff or one of the drive shafts...
I wish I had put together a final video of thoughts. The "problem" that I exposed in this video series... I believe stems from the three spot welds that fail within the structure. There are three spot welds that hold the Bracket (the one you see pulling out of underneath portion of the car) to the inner structure. The initial failure is those welds. You cannot see them. They are internal. But I would imagine when they fail, the sound would start. In my case, not only did the spot weld fail, but the extra stress also allow the bracket to pull through the bottom plate. I would hope no one would allow this to get as far as we did. It caused extra damage. Cheers!
UCanDoIt2 wel thing is my car even makes the noise when i put it in gear when it is standing still and engine at idle....
What wheels are those?
Those are BMW Style 5 off my 2001 740iL. I upgraded my 7 Series so my son took my old wheel and put them on this 3 Series.
ucandiit2 question for you i have a 03 bmw 325i automatic can this happen to my car i notice when i am in park and shift from reverse to drive i can hear and feel something i looked under the car i dont really see any cranks or anything
I believe it can. The first thing that is going to break is the 3 spot welds that I show inside the trunk. Those welds are not visible without removing metal. Once those welds break, they then flex ( and in my case, break) the bottom sheet metal. If yours does it simply by shifting from reverse to drive. Have someone stand next to the car and see if they can identify where the sound is coming from.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike i just posted a video of what its doing when i shift from reverse to drive could u take a look
@@UCanDoIt2Mike can you check out the video i uploaded or do you have a email address i can send you the video
@@corkscrewlifestyle no issues hard shifts
@@corkscrewlifestyle so the automatic transmission don't get the subframe issue
Mine was a broken muffler bracket.
That wont cost you much! Cool that you figured it out!
UCanDoIt2 Had all sorts of scenarios going through my head. Your clip is valuable bc most shops will go through a visual inspection using the All Parts sheet as a checklist. Running the motor under load and shooting video should be SOP for the DIYer or people that have burned through diagnosis hours without resolution.
Yeah I have a beater bmw I got for $2000. I replaced the axles, control arms, ball joints, and tie rods cause they did need replacing. I took it too my local mechanic for an alignment and they couldn't get it into spec and they suspect the subframe is bent and after all the stories I'm scared to look this summer. It's a 2004 325xi
Hope you can get it figured out. They are great little cars and fun to work on.
@UCanDoIt2 yeah it gets me through winter at least
UCanDoIt2 what do you think it is do you think it could be the same problem you had i am not really a mecanic is it fixable if i took it to a macanic
You should definitely have it looked at locally.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike i can also feel something when i shift from reverse to drive could it be the subframe tearing out
what do you think it could be is my car prone to have the subrame tear out problem
Possibly.... You should have it looked at locally to determine the exact issues and resolution.
How many miles did it have back then? And how many does it have now? If you still have it ;)
It had about 120K on it when this happened. We just sold this car about 2 months ago. My sin upgraded to a 550i (F10) 6 speed manual. Very hard to find. We flew to Chicago to snag this one.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks for the fast reply!
Awesome car too! I wish you all the best of fun with it ;)
@@FreakingDoomShroom I'm sure we will. We really loved the E46. We owned it for 7 years. A lot of fun to work on and drive.
Mine starting clunking this week. I couldn’t find the issue, so I watched your video and noticed the rear bushing is bad. I’m going to watch your tutorials and replace all rear bushings with some harder pu power flex bushings
Very cool!!!! Those original bushings are Extremely hard to get out. Be patient!!!! I have a large vertical press and could not figure out how to fit the subframe into it, so I had to remove them on the floor. Not a fan of the poly bushings, but that is just a personal preference. Glad you figured your issue out! Cheers!!!!
I hope my subframe mountain point isn’t cracked, I couldn’t see any cracks while being under the car. I’m not able to weld, so that would really suck
After completing this project and then looking back at the whole issue... I realized that in my situation, the INITIAL failure on mine was the "3 SPOT WELDS" of the SF mounting bracket. Those failed first then the rest just escalated. Unfortunately, you cannot see the spot welds unless you cut the little window in the trunk. Wish there was a good way to diagnose those weld for those that think they have failed. Cheers!!!
Then I’ll drive to my grandparents who own a good mit welder and ask my grandpa if he could help me to strengthen those 3 spotwelds before I remove the subframe. I’ll have an ugly trunk than more problems. Nobody will ever see those two holes there
Are there instructions on where I have to cut and strengthen those?
There was a recall of the rear subframe from BMW. I don't know if it is still in effect. Nice job. www.motortrend.com/news/bmw-settles-3-series-subframe-suit-will-inspect-repair-affected-models-4619/
Yea... the recall was for a very short period of time and it has expired. Cheers!
Great vid... lol
Does anyone know what is the name of the band/song that is playing in background?
How are those Rims called?
They are BMW Style 5 Wheels that came off my 2001 740iL. They are pretty common.
Great information. Having mine looked at this week.
i just got the same problem but in fact , my was ripped out :(
Maximilian Jankowski It is a shame that these cars experience this issue. They are fun to work
On, but this was a large oversight of the engineers. Hope you get yours fixed.
Mines not that bad only when I rag it
If my sub frame is cracked, I'm selling it. F... that. I'll take a good look at it this weekend.
yes sell it you don't want to put up with that specially if is rusted don't ask me how I know that
Can you hear it on Idle ? Car just sitting still ?
My rattle is on rear engine just sitting in park . Iddleling.
lol lol Not really. So it sounds like you have an automatic. I could possibly see you hearing a clunk when you shift from Park to drive as it would slightly torque the subframe. The rest of my problem and a systematic problem of the E46 is the spot sleds on the little bracket the fell out of mine. Not sure what yours might be since it happens in Park at idle. I believe something different.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike
Exhaust manifold seal ? Is what people are saying. I Have no idea where to look for that . Lol .
Dont know much about exhaust. Im not a profecional mechanic .lol
I dont think is camshaft .
The noise seems to come from rear of engine near firewall.
Its anoying . And engine shakes a bit.
Rattle noise .
YES 330ci CONVERTIBLE AUTOMATIC 2003 PRE FACELIFT.
E46
First thing first... I think it is fantastic that you are at least trying to diagnose your own issue (not being a mechanic) !!!! The Exhaust Manifold is the beginning portion of your Exhaust System. It bolts directly to the Head portion of the engine. There is a Gasket (seal) between the two. Since the issue happens at idle, you might be able to use a camera in small places to try to capture the culprit! Otherwise, you have possible narrowed down the issue enough to get/receive accurate help from a mechanic. Cheers!
By the way... I am not a mechanic either... but like you, I like to try to figure things out and when it becomes apparent that I can fix it myself, I do!!!!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike
Thanks so much .
I appreciate it .
Yeah learning as i go .
These BMW's can turn you into a scientist . Lol .
Fuxk my car makes a noise only when I'm turning left or right lol it's automatic ?
That is most likely not the same as this issue. Cheers!
Mine was the emergency/parking brake failure, $700.......smh
Interesting! I can see where a partially stuck cable could make a similar sound.
Poorly designed