The BIQU BX is an innovative 3D Printer, and a little strange.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video we're checking out a preproduction BIQU BX 3D Printer from Bigtreetech - currently on kickstarter. This 3D Printer has some really interesting features and, despite encountering some preproduction glitches, I think it's worthy of your attention.
UPDATE: Some really good responses by BIQU to issues raised in this video , confirming the firmware bug and plans for the other small areas of concern - www.kickstarter.com/projects/...
Teaching Tech's video on the BIQU BX - • BIQU BX - Octoprint co...
Link to the Kickstarter campaign (back at your own risk) - bit.ly/2GWFmQT
Models tested:
3DBenchy - thingiverse.com/thing:763622
Clearance Gauge - www.makersmuse.com/clearance-...
Fillenium Malcon (definitely from star trek) - www.thingiverse.com/thing:919475
Stringing Test - www.thingiverse.com/thing:245...
Support Maker's Muse on Patreon
www.patreon.com/makersmuse?ty=h
50 3D Printing Tips and Tricks - gumroad.com/l/QWAh
3D Printing Essentials - www.amazon.com/shop/makersmuse - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![[TH]FFWS SEA Spring 2024 Knockout Stage - Day 16](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jpvPyp7LESA/mqdefault.jpg)
Man I love Star Trek, it's my favourite MCU movie for sure, and the Fillennium Malcon is my favourite of all their rocket ships even if it's piloted by a Frackin Toaster!
'Live long and may the Smeg be with you!' classic quote.
I heard Falcon in the Middle is an underappreciated classic.
Not that it matters but that model came for Star Wars 2 Empire Strikes Back. Its a different franchise than Star Trek, and follows a different production narrative. Im much more of a Star Trek fan than Star Wars.
Cue all the triggered trolls that can't take a joke and think you don't know what a ship from Spaceballs looks like...
Its the fillennium malcon from star trek !
@@MakersMuse "May the force be with your, Spock." Stargate, is such a great show. 10/10
You all have it wrong! Everyone knows the best show is The Expanse withCaptain Kirk and his side kick Chewie, duh!
@@MakersMuse no, the fillennium Malcom is from Fire flown
Live long and perspire....
11:43
You have a offended so many people with that comment and I love it
Haha ''I think it's from Star Trek'' I see what you did there
have to say, as a huge star wars fan, when he said that, that hurt me a bit
I expected to see a large thread of mad people from that one ;-)
Trololol 😂
That hurts a bit
I hope he wasnt being serious lol.
My favorite spaceballs quote: “use the force, Harry” - Bowser
"Yer' a wizard, Luke!" - Ancient One.
Holding a Millenium Falcon: "I think it's from Start Trek".
Facepalm
Troll level : Infinity!
Geek Cred : -10
@@Jeffrey400 Humour Cred: +20
I will assume he was just trying to be funny
Thank you for a nice review, Angus. BTT took critic and changing some of the issues you told about. Keep on the good work!
Would be cool if you could get your hands on the finished product and give it a proper review.
one thing I like about the 3D printing community on TH-cam is you always reference and recommend each other's videos and it's pretty cool
This printer looked pretty promising. I laughed out loud when I saw the HDMI connection tho, manufacturers are getting.. crafty
Star trek 🤣
Great to see 3D printer show cases from your channel. Your test times are far too long to keep your printers relevant to your videos so having a brief showcase and later a proper review while a lot of work really keeps up interest in your channel.
I've had issues with btt boards killing my sd cards, so not surprised you had issues.
As for the z probe height, that's a marlin issue. Basically if you have soft endstops enabled, marlin z height adjustment will increment the number but the head won't go past z0. You can disable them with the marlin ui.
Finally, the kickstarter thing was totally a hype thing and a bit of a scam. They went around telling people there would be a lot available for $250 usd, then required people to pay a $10 deposit to secure that price, and they still ended up not having enough for those people, and telling them to use the $10 pledge and manually change it to $250. I ultimately ended up not ordering one because of this, and I'm glad I didn't
I had no idea about the $10 deposit thing... that's mega dodgy??? How many companies do I have to add to my naughty list this year.
Agreed with the BTT corrupting SD card on the touchpanels.
They also did something fishy with next lowest tier, they always added and substracted available slots so that it always appeared that they had just a few left to lure in new backers.
The z offset thing drove me nuts with my Kossel till I worked out to disable the soft endstops..
I'm about to retrofit a biqu h2 to my tronxy d01 and would love to have all the wiring including the stepper motor wires go through a neat single cable solution (a lock of some sort would be cool..) I wonder if the wires in the cable can handle everything going on up there at the H2 at once
The thing I like most about your channel is the things you try and talk about.
The second was your wild anime hair-it’s so disciplined now!
That touch screen is very nicely laid out and is huge
Interesting hotend/extruder design
Thanks for sharing :-)
Can't see the point of such a large expensive screen. The standard Ender 3 type black and white with rotary dial is more than sufficient - not least because I use Octopi for my main control - the Printer interface is only every used for bed levelling. I would rather they spend the money on upgrading the rest of the printer.
If someone really wants a big screen they can just buy a cheap laptop and put linux on it or something and use it to control the printer. I did that on my first printer and it worked great.
@@JonathanKayne Yup. You can find used laptops very cheap.
@@shadow7037932 I found one of those old netbooks for half the price of the cheapest Pi I could find
I'm gonna get that big screen and hook it to a raspberry pi and see if it can run crisis
The point of the big screen is to make it look good and more people (who aren't really the 3D printing types, maybe) are more willing to buy it cause 'big screen = good printer' or something
I am intrigued by this printer. However I will be happy waiting to see what the finished product will be like.
"back at your own risk" / "basically a donation" - 100% true. Great review as always.
Well said about Kickstarter. I've been waiting years on items.
I actually like the new thinking of that HDMI-idea. Just hear me out.
Every time I upgrade something on my printer it's a pain to disconnect all those wires.. Just think about it, you have 2 leads for the heater cartridge, 2 for the temp, 2 for fan1, 2 for fan2, ~3 for the bed level sensor and 4 for the stepper motor. That's SIX tiny, flimsy connectors in total. And added up thats 15 wires running from the motherboard to the head.
To disconnect this you use roughly 5 seconds instead of minutes.
Well, maybe not hdmi was the best choice, maybe display port would be better since they lock into place?
Edit, shouldn't usb-C be best suited? Since it can carry insaine amounts of power.
Seeing LTT and SmarterEveryDay in Angus' YT feed made my day ngl.
I think it's from star trek 🙄🤣
Love your videos, you've taught me so much! Keep it up, comrade!
the hot-end is very very interesting, the display and integration with rpi is very good. I wait for the version 2 ... ;)
That is such a Mum face at 3:32 "it works fine!"
The USB and card reader on the screen is probably going through a USB channel, which tends to impact print quality.
The 7 inch touch with a Pi behind it is something I'm running now, as an outboard controller (my printers are in an enclosure), and I love it. Chris Riley has reviewed OctoPi on a touch screen.
At this point, I would say any small amount of attention to hardware gets you a good machine. The real trick is getting the firmware working right.
I just heard a collective groan when you said Star Trek.
I like these videos. You've saved me a lot of money.
The Z offset issue is that whatever the last known "Z 0 position" was, the touchscreen wont let you manually move the Z axis lower than that until you reset "re-run" the Z homing. That's why you couldn't move the z down until it was raised above the previous home point
HDMI is just a good connector, ppl use it to connect GPUs to laptops through a pcie port for the wifi module. And also even though it's friction fit, it is quite sturdy, and it's not like it get's tugged on during it's operation so it doesn't matter and it's actually good that they use a common port instead of something custom.
I'm not sure why all the negativity towards the HDMI cable. I appreciate a lot of the opinions presented by these 3D printing TH-camrs, but it's clear they often don't have a lot of development experience. I'm an engineer in the consumer electronics industry for 12 years and I think the use of the HDMI cable makes a lot of sense. We actually use HDMI for power and signal delivery in a ton of prototype applications. In many ways it is superior to the old D-sub/RS-232 type of connectors. The most important factor is the cycle life. HDMI cables usually have a significantly higher cycle life meaning you will start to have issues with a D-sub after you unplug and plug it in about 50 times. An HDMI cable can go for about 5,000 to 10,000 cycles. There are also a lot of forms that the cable itself can take. We use a lot of HDMI ribbon cables in dynamic applications. The are great for moving back and forth along an axis. The pull force on an HDMI cable is high enough as well that you should experience no issues with the "friction" fit of the cable in the socket. Personally, I really like the idea of the HDMI and I hope they stick with it. They should rotate the port 90 deg and use a ribbon. That would be great.
I’m am so glad I’m not the only one that doesn’t like them using Kickstarter and I’m extremely glad you stress the issues with this, I am very disappointed that the other TH-cam channels just glaze over this. They lose a lot of respect from me by ignoring this.
Wondering if you can convert the extruder to get rid of the HDMI connector.
I still remember everyone excited for the buccaneer, the peachy printer and others and wondering why I didn't back them. This is more just a marketing tactic in my eyes but the lack of accountability remains!
That’s one of my main issues with this Angus. You buy a product or preorder something and you have rights.
With Kickstarter you have no rights.
I did back the cr6e on Kickstarter and I’m having lots of issues.
not sure if you've seen it but the CP-01 from creality has a very similar hotend, probably one of the first to have this compact style :)
I wonder what a printer designed and built by him would look like .
I made this one! :P th-cam.com/video/6O91ussQeus/w-d-xo.html
cool 🙂 I was wondering if something like peg holders - th-cam.com/video/fPCI75CLLDc/w-d-xo.html (well a version of them could hold the print bed better then magnets,
Or th-cam.com/video/1G8lGECOe1U/w-d-xo.html (print bed sheet has 4 holes at the corners ) and you drop in what looks like a rivet, that screws into the frame holding the print bed in place (ie - see 1:53 for what I mean :)
@@MakersMuse I love that build! But what if you made? designed a production\consumer line printer? What would you go for?
well he has designed some
Really curious what thoughts are on robotic arm based 3D printers. Not a lot of comparative reviews out there on them. For example the Rotrics DexArm. The build size of these seems to be great and with much less hardware mass involved. Also the ability for some of these to print at different angles would have definitely addressed the top turret on that millennium falcon. (plus the added bonus of having a multipurpose robotic arm)
THAT's seven inches? Oh my lord... I somehow thought that would be way smaller. I just ordered a paneldue 7" for my self-built printer... lol. I guess I'll have a monstrous screen then haha
I am still mesmerized by the bicylinder steinzmentz solid
And I know it would be a pain for you to make me one so I won’t ask.
Hi, is the extruder on this printer single or dual drive? I'm planning on getting into 3dp as a hobby and try to get as much experience from you and other youtubers as possible before I make a commitment to one printer. Thanks :D
Great video as always mate. Sure it has some weirdness, but, l too like the inovative hotend/extruder setup. Considering HDMIs are designed to be pluged in and left in situ, I'm pretty sure it is not going to last long on the X carriage end, it's gonna wiggle contunually and the contacts will weaken causing high resistance connections. Then the machine will have to rely on the thermal runnaway protection to avoid a potential fire. Of course, I hope I'm wrong. Also, I don't have this printer so not talking from experience, just theory.
I very much doubt that it's a PEI coated sheet. A lot of manufacturers are quick to claim something they don't actually have so it's interesting that Biqu are just calling it a "Spring Steel Sheet" and not a "PEI Coated Spring Steel Sheet." Also, when doing a tour of the various marketplaces for PEI sheets they seem to jump from Ender 3 sized 235x235mm up to Tronxy sized 300x300mm, no 250x250mm sheets to be found.
Also, wasn't that spaceship from Blakes 7 or something like that? :)
I think I saw it on a firefly episode
The reason it won't go down further on Z is likely because "SOFTSTOP" is activated and it won't allow it to move below it's virtual 0 offset.
I did wonder that, but surely the bed level adjust should be independent of that... otherwise the only way to get first layer height after mesh levelling would be to plunge the nozzle into the bed, and then raise it up.
Yeah but that should be an error condition or simply limit acknowledgment of input commands & movement
@@Henry680 It's marlin, so it simply won't move below.
One of my clients got the same version so I was able to set it up for him. The USB input works fine but I haven't tried the micro SD slot as of yet. When I was setting it up for him I also had issues with the SD card input on the screen. Once I started printing from the USB input that was on the screen things were working fine. I also had the bed leveling issue. I found that when I changed the leveling increments from 0.01 to 0.1 it would then start working while setting up the Z offset. I'd be interested in know if this fixes your issue as well. We've only been able to do a couple of prints so far but it would be interesting to find out if the machine retains the EPROM settings over the long term.
I was having the same issues with the Ender 5-plus' BL touch implementation. Even sending M851 commands directly to change the offset, there was something strange going on. It seemingly would apply the offset randomly. Sometimes live, sometimes not at all. Sometimes not until the next print started and crashing into the bed. I have a sneaking suspicion it might have something to do with the buffer being busy with G1 commands, plus when it sends the M503 to recall the stored data, or the M420 for actually activating the mesh. The up/down issue is caused by software endstops being applied. It will stop it from going down but log the change (stupidly) M211 S0 to turn them off fixed that little quirk but we eventually gave up on the printer as we could never fix the offset issue. Also, forcing a bed level before every single print instead of storing and recalling a mesh was asinine.
I have a Biqu B1. BIQU uses their (bigtreetech) TFT touch screens. They have their own CPU and communicate with the main board via serial port (sending regular g code commands). The SD card slot in the display is not on the mainboard and all data needs to be sent to the mainboard via the serial port. My guess is that the speed (baud rate) is set too high (250000) and so things get corrupted during transfer. I learned: Don't use the touch screen mode! Use marlin and, if possible, in combination with OctoPrint. One nice thing is that the mainboard USB interface is a real USB interface and not a USB serial port adapter. It looks like a serial port but you can choose speeds like 2000000+ and there is no corruption (speed is just the USB speed and it has internal error correction etc). So, using a RaPi with the mainboard USB interface works perfectly. Also, the TFT sends G-code but since it's not a direct marlin output, as the Marlin mode is, it doesn't actually know what the mainboard is doing: It can only interprete the g-code being sent from the mainboard, but things like position is apparently isn't sent. So all it can do is try to keep track (which doesn't work great as seen there). USE THE MARLIN MODE TO SET THE PROBE OFFSET! USE MARLIN MODE TO SAVE. that works... forget the TFT ffs!
The problem with the BED LEVEL could be from from the changes of the temperature in the proximity sensor because the cheap ones are VERY SENSITIVE to the temperature fluctuations giving very different results at only a few degrees variation. That's way Prusa uses PINDA with thermistor inside and does some compensation ...
It does indeed, so I mesh levelled at PLA printing temps to try keep things consistent
The issue with bed leveling is to use the M211 S0 code to turn off the software endstops so the z axis can go below 0 height I to the negatives.
Awesome arts and crafts
The issue with the nozzle not being able to be brought closer is marlin setting. One of those "safety" settings to prevent you from driving the nozzle into the bed ironically.
I was looking for your review of the Biqu b1, if you made one I couldn't find it. Others have a lot of good things to say about it. I would be interested in your opinion.
I thought the HDMI being included is brilliant. It's one of the lightest yet capable connections of that size and very common so easily replaced. It's clear why they went with it so I'm not sure why you took issue as it's leaps and bounds better than 99% of the printers out there. I too love the extruder and run them on all my printers(previously ran Orbiter+Phaetus Dragons) and they are superior to most and extrude quite fast although you may be the kind of guy running 0.8-1mm nozzles at super high speeds and in that case this is not the hotend for you but everyone else, buy. The extruder fan sucks but a 40mm can be adapter for use quite easily. Only downside is price now that it's 500-550 USD.
Yes, it is sounds good to have HDMI, but, just to note, the previous their model B1 printer used USB-C and it was NOT regular USB-C cable, but special from BIBQ, if not aware of, so it will not be a surprise if special HDMI cable will be needed again to obtain from BigTree in case a replacement cable needed.
IMO, display port makes more since I think, mostly because of the locking connector, but also because of conductor count and overall current carrying capabilities. Leaves more headroom and less likely a custom cable would need to be used.
When it comes to using the idea of repurposing a modern cable standard for the purpose of wire management, display port seems to make the most logical sense for this use case.
Thanks I always enjoy your video. Would you do a Christmas present video. I want to buy myself a resin printer for Christmas I was going to buy myself Mars but there are so many horror stories I think no. So I’m now looking at a Anycubic mono. If you needed to to buy a printer that would just work what wood it be ? My usages case is I very occasionally want to print missing parts for vintage valve radios mainly knobs. Thanks stay safe regards Chris
Thanks!
If you get the hotend to retrofit one of your own printers, how do you deal with the HDMI silliness?
I don't know why a new 3D printer would need a Raspberry Pi to get remote access. It's about time printers had all this stuff built in.
The bed levelling needs to be bullet proof and that means those magnets need to be way better too.
Not really a smart idea considering HDMI connections are notorious for breaking or becoming loose when exposed to excessive use or vibration (the Sony amp/video deal debacle from some years ago, in the car industry ringing a bell in my mind). Personally, i would've gone with a custom magnetic port, if that's the intent (to have easy to remove/swapable heads).
I don't remember the exact code, but there's even a mil spec magnetic port used for quick disconnecting when removing something in a hurry, like a laptop or a emitter/receiver box. Bigger, but on the same page, but a lot more common is the one that's used by medical or firefighting vehicles. The idea being that those vehicles need to get going fast, so there's no time to deal with connections (battery chargers, data transfer).
So yeah, no idea why anyone would go with HDMI of all things, i was quite shocked to see it on the stream, when there's much better same-same options out there. And whilst, yes, someone could make the argument of saying "ain't cheap", i doubt it's something difficult to engineer one based on existing parts, and then printing it. All you need to find are the ring magnets and pin terminals.
If CR-10 s(plural) could be shipped with various printed bits in the early days, i doubt making a quick disconnect port is that much of a big deal. Heck, there might even be one out there to license or ask permission to use for a cheap price on the machine for example(most creators are magnanimous like that).
The HDMI connector for power to the print head seems like an awful idea. I can totally see how someone inexperienced would try to plug the output to the head into a monitor and cause all kinds of damage. It's simply not the right tool for the job
Knowledge isn’t free and usually not cheap. That one mistake will last a lifetime. Let Darwin do his thing.
HDMI is known as being a pretty robust port, but in high vibration application (like here), a display port (which has a locking mechanism integrated) would have been better.
Or even better: JST type connectors.
I see what you did there (even said it with a straight face).
(Classic "That's not a knife" play)
I just saw something for the Kywoo Tycoon. There are a handful of YTers with pre production units but none of them are the major players. I really would like to see more about it from the big guys.
Hi Angus,
you said you made a factory file from an old Gcode.
could you tell me how to do this?
Thanks in advance!
I dig that extruder. But agree, KS is for start-ups.
I was wondering why I didn't see this one during my binge yesterday...
Thank God I got a Prusa MK3S and avoided all this nonsense (seriously, an HDMI connector?). And yes I'm aware its a lot more and its getting a bit outdated HW wise but the thing is an absolute workhorse.
Oh and thank you for your honest review (as always) Angus!
Another weird thing, I recently upgraded my ender 3 with a biqu/btt motherboard and a e3d/bmg setup, and since then I've been getting wierd zits like crazy, that could only have been fixed with coasting settings.
I see many people complaining about HDMI cable. Previous Biqu printer have a USB_C cable. But how do you suppose to make a connection between motherboard and adapter board on the hotend? Artillery printers has a special flat cable which is esthetically good but you wont find out that easily. This solution was made to prevent disassembling a whole printer if you need to change something on the hotend.
Oh... you got an older version of marlin with eeprom memory issues. Had the same issue with eeprom months ago when swapping out my mainboard on my ender3. I have no idea why this unit would be running such an old version of marlin though. I also remember having to reset the eeprom as well from the printer menu
Will the Leds switch color to identify print status? Ex finished would flash green, Halt could be red, etc... This would be a good use of them.
But is it 8k ready?
@Maker Muse Perhaps the HDMI might be intended for a future addon for a camera attachment to the extruder.
Could you do a video on putting the extruder talked about in this video on an ender 3 as a mod?
Yeah, that SD card slot bug would really annoy me too Angus! You said acceleration/jerk were slow, could you share what the actual values where?
the standard values on those machines are 500mm/s²
Thats acceleration , for jerk try 10- 12 mm/s^2
I wish manufacturers could get their heads together and agree upon an industry-standard set of touch screen icons, they could set the firmware to offer a choice standard or manufacturers custom icons.
So basically printer GUIs need their own versions of the save icon's ubiquitous nature, Which even on some non normal desktop computer platforms is a 3.25" Floppy
Seeing this machine is made by Bigtreetech, are the stepper motors open or closed circuit?
You're all too kind, this printer seems like a nightmare.
Star trek? STAR TREK!?
That's obviously from starship trooper
The interface on the screen need serious polishment. This bug is classic, here's how it goes: a button fires an event. The event decreases the counter and sends the signal to the machine to move the head down. Great? NO!
You can't just go sown so the macine stops if it's at its limit. Well... but the counter is not auto linked... if you don't receive the signal back from the machine telling you that it went down you don't know if you should count down or not. That's actually something that could change the design a lot because is this hardware ready to tell if any operation required were succesful? Actually I honestly don't know up until where it should be, but at least inside the code you should check your limits before performing operations. And that's something the interface needs to take care about.
On the magnet, is there another "layer" of some sorts on it? Because I ordered one of their spring steel sheets for my own printer and it came witht his weird extra magnetic surface. Which while on made the magnet so weak it couldnt hold on the sheet through a plastic bag. But once I removed it, it stuck very well.
I wish you'd take a look at the board or discuss the features that are possible with it. Aka, are the steppers replaceable or not.
No but if I know btt well enough they're uart tmc drivers which can do whatever you really want for them
Looks like the first knock off Hemera has arrived. It's a great extruder assembly, cooling fans for it are a bit of a pain though. I'd be interested to see how close that extruder is to the Hemera dimensionally, will the coolers interchange?
Its quite smaller in it's dimensions compared to a hemera, teaching tech shows them side by side in his video.
Do you have a recommendation for a 3D printer that can handle PMMA (Acrylic) well enough for the money?
Hi can you do a review between the TL-D3 PRO vs JGMAKER ARTIST-D
I mean, using connectors for things you don't expect is pretty normal. I'm betting they chose HDMI because it had the right pin count and was smaller then DVI. The copper doesn't care what it's connected to.
I do agree however that it might not be my first choice when delivering heater current though. Relatively small gauges, unless they're using multiple pins for power and ground..
millennium falcon falcon ship is from star wars.... thanks for reviewing this. they really need better magnets for bed. it is more likely strength of magnets and the warping of metal plate. the magnets would not work at all otherwise. but never the less the machine still has issues, i hope they fix them.
Hey Angus, could you review the Biqu B1, the price for the features is enticing to me and it seems like a lot of people are buying it and I wanna know if it's any good and I notice you review a bit more harsh on a review than most other people who just magically get the thing working out of the box. And most importantly, it has a light on the print head, which is a complete deal maker for me lol.
Also, on a more serious note, what episode of Star Trek is that cling on vessel from? You didn't have a raspberry pi laying around, just head on down to cashies, where you can find your dream.
Im not Angus, but I have B1 and this thing works fine.
@@myNICKnameISgelo thanks, I appreciate it.
everyone seems to miss the hot end cooling ducts that point straight down at the print. Have read they changed it but all the units they sent out seem to reflect they haven't. Ya, they could have been boxed before the change, but man, why would you even design it that way in the 1st place?
Videos about machines that you most likely will never be able to buy in the current form have always puzzled me.
Funny enough i actually have that problem with the SKR Mini E3 V2.0 32-bit control board from Biqu for the ender 3 pro, that the probe z offseet would not store in the ebrom and every print i need to almost relevel it, with the addition it would never go down further but the number would increase, and then doing it the other way it would go up, the only way i have managed to store the settings was through marlin mode, but then switching over to the touch pad mode it would be wonky again, so it must be in the software in the moment -_-
if you haven't seen star battle you haven't had a child hood
My guess with that SD card on the screen, the traces are too long (or not matched length) to be running at the speed it is, probably slowing down the clock speed will fix it, but either way, it's not ideal.
where can I find this Extruder? I'm interested in it but I cant find it anywhere? didnt u say they sell i seperately?
where'd you get the filament spool tshirt, Angus?
prints just stopping could be due to main board cooling my skr v1.3 does that if i don't have cooling for working on a case atm
I think the sd card issues are either firmware or hardware because I have a biqu based custom printer and the screen looks like it uses the same code base as mine, on which I have had the same issues.
The setting for probe offset it looks like the software endstop was enabled so it will not go below the software endstop settings. Often you have to disable it to set the offset and store it then restore the software. end stop.
I had that build surface before on a different printer, couldn't get anything besides play to stick to it, unlike real pei
Yes indeed, I believe that is the Double D (DD) from Star Treck. Shorthand for Decade Dodo i think. Colloquially known as the Discus by Star Treckers, or Discust by Space Wars fans.
I think the LED light strip is not purely aesthetic. I let it on in my printer usually in my lab to check it sometimes when I have the lights off.
I kinda like it as a whole but that HDMI connector seems like a bad idea as they were never designed to be moved around constantly. Would be better using something like a DIN connector with the screwable collar to lock it in place. Even a display port connector would have been a better option as those at least have clamps that hold the connector in place.
@Maker's Muse I know that you use simplfy3d but have you ever tried MatterHackers MatterControl, i have been using it with my Ender 3 Pro (very Upgraded, Thanks to You and Michael over at TeachingTech) , i find it to be very good and would love to hear your opinion on it. The support system in it is very basic and in need of some work but the prints i have been getting are way better than i was getting in cura ( i don't have S3d) and the built in ABL system is so nice to use and fairly easy too. it basicly has everything that you need to calibrate/Tweek/Slice and alot more i still haven't learned to do yet. thank you again for all the knowledge you have given us it is highly valuable.
The LED Strip "does not have any functionality". It does, I had to manually add one to mine.
Exactly.
A LED strip might not be necessary in a well lit film studio, but for normal people, especially if the printer is in an enclosed case, I wouldn't want to use it without LEDs.
That shirt is awesome and cool.
Thanks for the vid Angus. Very informative about your experience. When is more Popeye coming, lol.
He comes by daily but I need to design more puzzles :3
Had very similar issues with BTT TFT70 screen regards the corrupt gcode, also in simulated mode it started corrupting the screen display. Definitely firmware issues. My screen also as a dicky SD card reader. Viewing angles are rubbish and the touch screen is not as good as the 35TFT screen. Edit: Please refer to my recent comment - my revised estimation is this is not firmware but electrical interference from the display being near interference.