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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2020
- This video will show you how to clean the nozzle throat, hope it will help you.
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This helped big time. Thank you
This movie was crystal clear and worked perfectly according to the description. No complaints about anything. I believe only normal after a year of looooooots of printing, i did notice the tube was losing some fiber alike things that clogged the nozzle. Now all is clean and renewed. Happy with my CR-10 V3 ! (only my bed adhesion/bed leveling could be better)
Magnetic PEI bed is great for adhesion!
This is a great printer for entry level person like me. I have managed to do lots of successfull high quality prints. However, what symptoms or defects would one need to look out for that would be rectified with a nozzle throat change like this?
Great video! Thanks!
Should I tighten the nozzle all the way like in the video? I've seen others that say to leave a gap
Thank you ! 😁
Never had to do this with my TronXY. Never had to do this with my FLSun. Never had to do this with my Rostock. Having to do this about every four months with my Creality.
But I will no longer have to do this once my Swiss Micro gets here.
I also had to do the Z height mod. What the hell are you thinking Creality?
hello thanks for the video but can you tell me where i can find the gray screw where you put the little black pointer on it that is on the blue surface, mine is starding to get hot , its on your time 3.12 thanks in avange
The PTFE Tube does not come out!
Does anyone know how to install the tough Titanium heatbreak by TH3D to use this machine as an all metal hotend?
Just send some to the TH-camrs... I just bought one and I am so disappointed to see nobody reviewed it. Peoples are tempted to consider the makermuse's bad experience. My experience with it was good so far. worked smooth out of the box and cura cr10 default settings
the section at 2:14 where they are passing the long teflon tube through the hotend - mine will not allow this. i can not get the tube past a certain point - is that normal?
Great video, very clear, I've just ordered a CR-10V3 I'm looking forward printing : )
We are very excited to hear this, maybe you can share your using experience with us after you receive it.
nice
when we have 32bits on CR10?
Super les tutoriels pour la maintenance
This should be in the instruction manual.
It's also one of the most infuriating things to put back together.
So true..
How do you know when this maintenance is needed?
When it stops extruding in the middle of a print, usually that means this needs cleaned. Could also be the nozzle, but if you replace that and still get problems extruding, try this.
how to add BL touch in cr10 v3?
didi, get the BL Touch CR-10 V2 kit, it will work on V3 also. I just did this to mine and it worked well.
Trying to re-insert the two screws behind the wheels is some kind of sick joke. Don't even bother unless you have a magnetic wrench or a way to magnetize the wrenches that came with the machine.
What do you do if your hot end is leaking filament? and now you have hot filament plastic making the nozzle unable to be screwed off?
if you in need of support, please write to our professional technical support team afrer- salescs@creality.com, they will solve it for you.
@@Creality3D I would, but you guys always take forever to answer your emails, and you guys try to pass the baton onto your creality facebook group. Worst support I've ever had out of my 3d printers.
thank you but do you know how to add BL touch in cr10 v3?
Yes
How many mm is the ptfe tubing that is cut?
The Chinese spec is: long enough. When the PTFE is pushed to the nozzle the plastic conic thing on the top of the PTFE is supposed to push and keep it tight in place when the extruder is assembled. Use a new nozzle first of all.
Ok so for mine I found it to be at aprox 82mm
"Very easy" in the video, hard in the reality. It's more better don't unscrew the rear screws yet until your disassemble the Titan extruder because my Titan fell on the top of the bed. It can crush the glass. Use a small towell or kitchen rag to avoid any kind of damage. Use also small fine point pliers to assemble the adapter of the hotend to the Titan. It's more better to do it having another hand than do it alone. Beware with the spring!! It can damage yourself!
Thanks for your warmly advice.
I think you actually unscrewed all the screw there, you just needed to do the upper three
the long screw that goes through the clear plastic where it says extrude and goes through the gear keeps backing out on me. Any suggestions?
Late reply, but if anybody has the same problem: The 4 screws that hold the plastic in place have different lengths! I colour coded the heads/clear plastic since I can't be trusted to sort my parts/not mix my parts up while I'm working on my printer.
Clog, the way they clean this is too much work, I had a horrible clog since day 1, destroyed a extruder gear, repaired and never knew was wrong, I eventually pulled out the nozzle and pushed some pla white filament trough the extruder gear, and tried to hold it at the bottom without having it melt completely, back out and pul and so on until it cleared out the clog, white filament came with black charred bits and yellow burned out pieces, threw it back together and put a fresh nozzle problem gone, just make sure to use a higher temperature than you usually print, chances are they had this machine tested with a different material than pla
@@jazielalessandri "COLD PULL"
@@JoBLyM Would be super to add which length goes in which hole, for those of us who.... MAY, have mixed them up
Isn’t this vid for completely changing the nozzle ?
Mine blocked and I just poked it few times until it released, took about 5mins but was fine again after
Well, friend, we have to explain that it is a tutorial to clean the nozzle throat 😅😅
this machine is a complete piece of trash, I've been spending more money in repairs, not really put together they proper way, and too lazy of a company to even want to screw in a few screws properly
Just one problem my teflon tune isn't going through the extruder. Can anyone tell me why?
If in need of technical support, please email to cs@creality.com, which is our tech support as well as after-sale service.Due to tons of emails go into this folder, it maybe response you not instantly,
I'd appricite you if you can wait for it .
or join in the Facebook Group (facebook.com/groups/3110994512278883/) to discuss with thousands of experienced 3D printer users.
Mine has been great....then terrible. Come to find out its NOT an all-metal hotend or extruder. They simply swapped out a problematic plastic idler arm for a metal one and called that an "all metal extruder kit". People like me come along and think theyre getting an all metal hot end or at LEAST an all metal extruder and therye getting neither. Mine wont print reliably above 240C (which is everything I need to print) so its basically junk to me. The hot end isnt an E3D. Its a clone with a shorter heat sink so there are no easy "drop-in" options I'm aware of. Its starting to look like major surgery replacing the entire print head because I suspect the extruder is not a genuine E3D either. Taking it apart it looks like a meth addicted monkey put in the threaded brass inserts that hold the print head together. Also, the part cooling ducts are melting after 6 weeks of use printing nothing hotter than PETG. If you cant tell, Im super UNIMPRESSED with my CR-10v3. I have an email into customer service so we will see what they say. I can tell you if I have to buy a whole new printer it will NOT be anything from Creality.
I'm still doubting: V2 orV3?
just get the regular model cr-10 original, save your money all the bells and whistles are not worth it, I've been having more issues than anything else, and spent money in repairs, just get a cr-10 and upgrade parts to convert into direct drive, I strongly recommend a bondtech extruder
Just great. Bought this crap and you can't follow the tutorial. One of the screws that hold the motor is impossible to unscrew - both with their and my own tools. Many of the screws were loose, one even fell out when I unboxed the printer. Rubbish. Got nothing else to say.
How is the PTFE tube secured so there would be no gap at the nozzle to collect molten filament to create a block? I am having this problem constantly. It makes printing impossible. This looks like an inherent design failure.
The only way the PTFE tube would stay in place without gap is when it is cut to a long enough size, then installed with the extruder first and finally the nozzle would be tightened pushing the tube. But this assembly video does not show it this way. Affordable price is good, but these Chinese guys are not very good designers.
Horrible customer service with the same clogging issue. And they don’t know even how to fix the issue and sending stupid emails ten more time since Nov and pissed me off. I would not buy this BS again. Thanks for the good tip.
@@sung-hyunchoi25 finally I have resolved the issue. Heat up the hotend 230C. Throw away the clogged nozzle. Push the PTFE trough the hotend a few times, so the gump is cleaned out. Install a brand new nozzle, tighten it while hot. Cut a new PTFE 90° angele and a long enough size. Push it all the way to the nozzle. Assemble the extruder. There is a conic plastic thing on top of the PTFE, that is supposed to push the PTFE down if the PTFE is long enough. So the lengt of the PTFE is important. But for me the nozzle was causing the clogging problem in the first place.
Found that on mine, Ptfe needed to be 82mm
@@sung-hyunchoi25 82mm worked for me in terms of ptfe length. I cleaned my hot end the usual way (heat up to 240, remove nozzle and toss, push old ptfe through to clean out the gunk, replace nozzle but leave it slightly loose, place new ptfe (capricorn) in, reassemble. Reheat the hot end if cooled and tighten nozzle. Carful to support the heater block with a wrench to prevent it from twisting....in short the usual routine as with other printers.
@@clancyx2807 Thanks. I did exactly same thing four times except 240 degree but 260 but no success.
How carefully you skipped over the part where you reassemble the hotend. Suddenly we were screwing the nozzle back in. Useless.
My CR10V3 has NEVER printed a clean print, in 4 months of nonstop trying. Doubt it ever will. Mem card slot doesn't work either. Yay... Taking apart hot end right now. Changing Nozzle, and Tube to Capricorn. See what happens. Slow these videos down, and show every detail. Screw size for each hole. Orientation of Silicon sock, etc.
If in need of technical support, please email to cs@creality.com, which is our tech support as well as after-sale service.Due to tons of emails go into this folder, it maybe response you not instantly,
I'd appricite you if you can wait for it .
or join in the Facebook Group (facebook.com/groups/3110994512278883/) to discuss with thousands of experienced 3D printer users.
:3