If anyone is considering installing a Tesla home charger: PLEASE READ THE MANUAL! My comments are to your viewers that believe the 60 amp breaker should be a GFCI. The Tesla manual says: DO NOT install a GFCI breaker. As you know, the Tesla charger already has one built in. Also, the manual says External disconnect switches are neither required nor recommended. You did a great job with this video.
I just commented on another video for this installation that had many electrical code violations. I am an electrical contractor with 36 years of experience and 23 years in business. I want you to know I am very pleased with your tutorial. Good Job!!
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback! Most of the time it's, "why didn't you do this," or "you did this wrong," so I like hearing these comments from time to time!
@@terpcraigcali6717 #6 thhn at 75 degrees is good for 65 amps. # 6 romex ( 60 degree table) is good for 55 amps. you can put 6 romex on a 60 as long as your load does not exceed 55 amps. I have never been called for putting 6-2 on a 60.
IMHO, this is one of the best DIY tech tutorial video in the history of TH-cam (and I watch A LOT). Other DIY TH-camrs talk too much, beat around the bush, too many dad jokes, etc. but yours gets to straight to the point and details quickly with the right amount of humor, organized, and the BOM. One thing I would add is, if installing a subpanel in the process, one should always double check the wire gauge going into the main panel can handle the new load, main panel’s max current rating, main breaker’s capacity, and correct wire gauge going from main to sub (this can change depending on various factors including distance from main to sub, max current usage, wire material/type)
27 years of industrial 480v III phase experience here. You did a phenomenal home wiring demonstration for this install. For all those who want to wire in a home air compressor outlet and or a home use welder outlet. This is the same process. This demonstrates the safe and correct way to wire in an 240v outlet.
Landing the breaker wires first is really not safe especially if the line side is further down from the load side , it is a good practice to land the load side first then the line side last just in case someone accidentally turns the breaker or switch on , it’s always a good practice. ✌🏽
I watched about 10 of these and yours was the most informative and helpful. Small things like mentioning the brand of your panel to match with the breaker you're buying. Most people don't realize these things when reading the Tesla manual and trying to do it themselves.
Your the man. I’m not an electrician but have done many tasks at home. You just allowed me to give my wife a Tesla charger for home. Thanks awesome video.
Good info. I appreciate you leaving in the part where you had to remove the charger base, run the conduit, then reinstall the base. Many people would have edited that out.
Thanks, Brian! This video was super helpful! I’m converting a NEMA 1450 outlet - I replaced the recessed 2 gang residential (plastic) box where the outlet was installed with a surface mounted steel box. I’m mounting the Tesla wall charger above the box. Both are secured to a 3/4” piece of ply wood. A couple of lessons learned: * the 3/4” conduit coming out of the steel box does NOT line up with the hole at the bottom of the Tesla wall charger. The Tesla wall charger’s hole is slightly further away from the wall than the EMT I had coming out of the steel box. * I don’t normally work with high voltage, and my wire cutters were not sufficient to cut the wires (I believe it’s 2 gauge). Need to go to Home Depot and pick up bigger wire cutters. * I was torn about using the steel box vs going directly into the back of the Tesla wall charger. I decided on the steel box because it provides me an easy way to take the Tesla wall charger with me and wire nut the wires in the box if we ever move. * This was a 4” steel box. If I did it again, I’d use a larger box.
Glad it was helpful! Indeed, cutting the wire is difficult. Try to avoid scoring the copper if you can as another person mentioned. The box is a good idea. I'm in the process of selling my home and being able to easily disconnect it and take it with me is turning out to be a huge advantage now.
Excellent video for anyone planning to install the Tesla level 2 connector/charger. Even for those of us who have done lots of wiring, it addresses the issues specific to the Tesla charger, ie power inlets, connections, assembly of faceplate, etc. Well done!
NICE!! Thanks for covering all the bases! I'm also not an electrician, so when I realized I'd need to crack into my breaker box for this install, I got a little nervous. Your video was in-depth and broken down into good, plain english, lehman's terms. You made everything totally easy to understand and gave me the confidence to tackle this project on my own! I like that you've got some good validating comments from experienced electricians in here too! Great job!
You did a good video. I learned some from you and learned some from others. I liked yours because of your DIY comments. I DIY'd my M3P with XPEL PPF stealth satin. It's not a pro job but have had many compliments. Took me a month lol. I totally get your DIY comments. Thanks for the video.
Electrician here One thing, please use a level when bending conduit. Klein has a really good level for conduit bending. When you were remounting the charger, putting a level on the longer part of that 90 would have been a good way to make sure your conduit is dead on. It also needs a means of support too. Might want to slap a 3/4" one hole strap in the middle of that pipe. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER STRIP WIRES WITH HAND TOOLS, ESPECIALLY STRANDED (THHN)! Using side cutters or lineman's pliers could kink, or fray the wire. Use a utility knife when stripping larger gauge wires. Use strippers for any gauge smaller than 10AWG. Another thing safety wise, NEVER use a non contact voltage tester when testing to see if a circuit is off, especially a sub panel. We call those widow makers. You need to use a multimeter to check to see if the circuit is indeed off. There's a lot of videos on how to properly use a multimeter, and don't cheap out on them. Get a good one. I personally use a Fluke T5 600. That model is easy to use, and perfect for home projects as the settings read both AC and DC. Fluke is a highly trusted brand among electricians. You don't want to cheap out on a multimeter. It's a life saving device. Other than those little things, you do great work! The bend looked great with it being eyeballed. You knew and eliminated the risks. For fucks sake, I saw a guy on here put a metal fish tape in a live panel doing the exact same job you did. KEEP IT UP!!!
Dumb question but if your box is "sunk" into the drywall can you come out of the knockout and through the drywall to conduit? Or does it have to be Romex? Tyia can't wait to get my model 3
This video was very helpful and great I love the way that you not only took your time but shoulder step by steps on ways of doing everything properly. I also love the bloopers at the end that was a great touch and shows great characteristics and that were human thank you and have a blessing.
Another Blooper could be when you finished as you was flipping the breakers on you were standing back hoping you wouldn’t see sparks! Job well done, Thanks
You shouldn't stand directly in front of the panel when turning on breakers you just installed, incase of anything you just installed goes wrong, the breaker(s) could cause an arc flash and in result burn you or even kill you. Its always taught to use your non dominant hand and stand beside the panel and not in front of it incase it does blow up. Just a tip from an electrician.
Besides standing to one side you should ALWAYS take in a deep breath & hold it whole turning all circuit breakers and safety switches on & off. In the event if an Arc flash you would not inhale up to the 10,000 degrees into & severely burning your lungs. Common sense but took me over 30 as an industrial electrician to learn this.
You should actually use a multimeter to check for voltage in the panel instead of a tester. The tester has a minimum for it to actually detect anything and sometimes circuits can be backfed.
Torque driver is really important, especially for DIYers who do not have experience. 50 in-lb is really really really tight. Not secured connections could cause fire. Considering diameter of your screw driver and face expression while you were tightening, you only applied 27.5 in-lb.
@@BrianFischer I have a Model Y coming in 2 weeks but they keep pushing it back a day so if I use an integer function it may be 2 months 😆. It says 16-19th . LR white, black wheels, and hitch.
I have watched other videos about this. And the white wire is very confusing. Your videos about the ground wire are simple and to the point no fuss. Just make sure it does not go to the white bus bar but the ground bus bar.
If you are using a 60 amp breaker or circuit, are you not required to use 4 guage wiring even if that is a short run? 6 guage wires are only rated to handle a max of 55 amps.
Apart from the obvious differences - durability, ease of working with, cost, etc. I couldn't tell you. However, given the amps that will be running through this wire, I wouldn't be using PVC. There's a significant amount of power, hence why I used metal. Local codes may require/recommend it too.
Thanks for the awesome video! How many wires required total 3 or 4? I plan to put on conduit can I use the ground wire smaller one and the rest 6 gauge?
The way you did the wiring you risk burning down the house. You can avoid such a risk by torquing down the wire connections on the wall charger and breaker. Both units provide their torquing requirements. Since you are using stranded wire you need to torque the wire , back off and torque again. Do this three times to get the wires to spread for the best connection.
As a future Tesla owner, thanks for making this video. I'm planning to tackle this project in the next few weeks and I'm kind of nervous as I've never done electrical work at high current/voltage.
Do I really need to do the loop that Tesla has in it's instruction when connecting the wires to the charger connector? My installation is going to be indoors in the garage. Wiring is not long enough to loop around, but it's more than sufficient to do a direct connection. Thanks.
Nice job Brian. I might add that you leave the texted overlay comments on a bit longer. I did see about using the torque wrench (it flashed by) but more on this would be good. You torque both the breaker wires and the outlet wires
your video are very helpful, my tesla charger install by previous owner are wired exact the way in your video, but my ev is not a Tesla so i need to convert it into 14-50 plug, can it be done?
Yes, the wiring will likely be the same coming out of the box. Instead of going to a charger, they'll go to the plug. Search around for a 220v Nema 14-50 diagram and it'll show you.
14-50 requires a neutral wire; Tesla chargers do not require this. Your situation depends on whether your new charger requires a neutral and if there's a neutral wire available in your current install. One thing is definite - if you don't have a neutral wire, you should **not** install a 14-50 socket.
14-50 outlets require a neutral to be code compliant. Most likely the old Tesla wiring lacks a neutral because it's not needed for car charging. A code compliant method if you do not have a neutral wire would be to install a 6-50 outlet instead and replace the plug on your non Tesla charger with a 6-50 plug.
Hey buddy. It's a great video. I installed a 40 amps breaker for my tesla. Everything connect correctly. But why when I plug to change work well but for a few minute the breaker jump shut. I have only 100 amps panel. Is that why. Please help
My Tesla can pull, at max, 48 amps. When you plug in, try adjusting the amps the car is pulling. You can see it on the screen in the car, likely labeled 48A, adjust it down to around 30 amps. My guess is your car is pulling 40+ amps, easily tripping the 40A breaker.
Great video. Keep making more. It’ll be worth it. If not for the $$$ do it to have your kid be able to go see them. And they are helpful to the community.
Hello, thanks for the video very informative. Can you let me know what reference you used to get the requirement of 200amp service? I cant find it in the documentation. Thanks.
That's my rough estimate. Most newer-ish homes have 200 amp service. If this is pulling even 30-40 amps to charge the car on house's 100 amp breaker, that doesn't leave a lot of room for everything else. Especially if you consider it's the middle of summer, the AC is blasting, the clothes dryer is running, etc. etc. it'd be easy to trip the whole house's breaker.
I liked your video, my question is, I need to run the wire length of 120 feet to reach my car garage from the main panel. what type of wire and circuit breaker and you recommend for this tesla wall charger project thank you
Hello Brian! I just installed Tesla wall charger, gen3, and i was able to cjarge my model 3 with 48A, but then, like 15 mins later, my circuit breaker went down, and charging stopped. I turned it on, and it charged again with 48A, but then i lowered it 32A because i just looked at the circuit breaker, and it says 40A. Now i have no idea what to do. Please give some advice to me to be able to charge mine with 48A.
1. Call an electrician. You can't pull 48A from a 40A breaker. You need a 60A breaker to safely run 48A. I can't tell you if it's okay to replace the 40A breaker with a 60A breaker without being at your home and looking at your panel. That's why I say to call an electrician. I'm assuming you're in the USA.
For some reason, my wall connector automatically reads and sends 48A juice into my car. But then my 40A circuit breaker can't handle it, obviously, and stop charging.
awesome video dude - looked at some real dross b4 I found this one - gr8 job - demonstrating that Tesla owners can actually be real hands on useful practical people.... although I think we might be in the minority based on the videos I have watched......I've subscribed - cheers
Hi Brian, I had issue my wall connector. All green lights are on (I use bare as the ground wire) when I turn on the breaker. ( I didn’t connect to wifi). Then, a couple of hours later, no lights are on. I tried turn off the breaker and hold the button for 5 seconds. Still not working. I also tried to plugging to my Tesla and the warning said check the supply (no power). I used 6AWG wire and 60amp standard circuit breaker.
Have you tried connecting it to Wifi to see if resolves the issue? My $0.02 would be to understand what changed within those couple of hours where it kicked off.
This charger only needs a bond wire? Not a neutral wire.? Mine are not tied together in my panel. Seems like best practice would call for a neutral over a bond for quick tripping in case faults.
Hey Brian, I would like to know if I need the 6 gauge ground wire or if it can be any gauge ground? I know the other 2 got wires need to be 6 gauge. Thanks!
A lot of people have a problem figuring out wire ampacity. At about time 9:28 you talked about number 6 wire and 60 amps. Yes the wire, like thhn, might have a high temperature rating and high amp capacity.....90 degrees c and 75 amps (nec section 310) however the circuit smpacity is sized for the weakest part.... Nec 110.14 deals with terminal connections. 100 Amp is the break over point between 60 degrees c and 75 degrees c. Yes, I am saying that (unless other wise labeled) your wire connection point (terminal) on your breaker puts you in the 60 degree column and that number 6 thhn wire rating is dropped to 55 amps. Hope that helps.
This is prescribed electrical work. Here in NZ. If the home owner completed prescribed electrical work then they can be fined. What was your Earth loop Impedance test results and what are the RCD test tripping times ? Dont worry, I don't expect you to answer those questions... Just trying to get my point across. If you get a fire and there is no electrical certification then no insurance.
@@BrianFischer I guess our electrical is strict as we are 230v single Phase. If an electrician here fills out a certificate and does not complete the necessary tests the Electrical workers registration board can fine and remove your practicing license, = go hungry. Quite a big deal.
I don't have the background or expertise to explain it properly, so look at the video below. This is what I watched prior to installing. th-cam.com/video/fJeRabV5hNU/w-d-xo.html
Hi, do you know if it's possible to replace a short cable with a long cable on the wall connector? I'm referring to the thick main cable that goes from the body of the unit and plugs into the car.
Hello Brian we had an electrician Connect our Gen 3 charger up to the garage and when we switch it on it comes up with a solid Red light saying the Wi-Fi is not connected do you know the fix for this problem I can’t seem to get Tesla to help me thanks man if you have heard of this before and could get back to me with some idea of what The electrician has done wrong our box where the wires go is for three-phase as well but you can wire it as one phase I am wondering if he put the wires in the wrong spot which makes the Wi-Fi not work we definitely have Wi-Fi from the house to that point full bars
Hi Brian, I just bought a Tesla Charger to install. How do I get you the credit for the referral so you can get the bonus points? I may also buy a Model Y next week. Cheers, Paul
Question, i live in a condo and my girlfriend has a house, i stay at her place on the weekends and work weekends at a job that’s about 30 miles away so 60 miles or so round trip. I was thinking of charging in the outlet outside of the front part of the house. Is that possible? What if it rains will the outlet that’s on the wall be safe from the rain if my car and the chargers are out in the elements?
@@BrianFischer I appreciate it, I’ll do that and double check. I also found a $10 waterproof plastic outdoor cover to put over the outlet just to be extra safe
Hi folks, if in the UK doing this is illegal if not a registered qualified electrician. For more info consult Part P of the UK Building Regulations. We are not allowed to DIY a new radial circuit from the Consumer Unit (aka fuse panel in the US). It's not just voltage and frequency that is different, how the electricity is brought into the property, how protective conductors are installed and how circuits are protected are all different from US practice. Even how connections are made can be different. When you come to sell your house you will need the relevant certificates issued by your electrician to confirm the installation has been correctly installed and tested.
You'll want to use 4. The 6 will limit what you can accomplish with the wall Connector as it can't take the contentious load and you'll need to charge at a lower speed.
Do you know if there is an adapter to make the wall charger we already have for our Leaf work with the Tesla? I don't want to pay for another EV charger if don't have to.
The Leaf uses the universal J1772 connector. I believe this adapter comes with a Tesla but they have made some changes recently with what's included. If not you can buy it separately in the Tesla online store.
Hi, thank you for your video. I am looking into installing the Tesla Charger. I cut through a section of drywall in my garage near the main load center. The wall is filled with fiberglass insulation between the studs. I planned on using ROMEX 6/3 as you did. The insulation for the ROMEX is NM-B. Should I use another cable insulation type for Code/safety concerns?
Romex/NM-B is fine so long as it's inside the wall and you cover it back up with drywall and you use the rear cable entry method. The wire needs to be protected from physical damage end to end. If you are running long distances or your walls are exposed to extreme temperatures, you might need to upsize the wire to the next biggest size. Consult a voltage drop calculator online to figure out gauge size required for the length you plan to run the wire.
@@taylorlightfoot People, people, please, what is the amps of 6/3 romex? If you are trying to get 48 amps out of your wall charger, it will not work. TH-cam after youtube shows so called electricans with years of experience running 6/3 romex and in 90% never mention that this circuit is continuous, meaning that it will be running for more than 3 hours. If continous, the wire size has to sized 125% larger that the highest amp draw of the charger. 6/3 romex: 55 amps, 48 amps draw of charger, 48 amps times 125% is 60 amps. The reason for the 55 amps on the 6/3 romex is, the temperature rating is in the 60 degree column. You would have to use 6/3 with ground SER copper, which is durn hard to find, to be legal, and that is not taking into account for voltage drop of a long run. Telsa says you can run #6 copper 150 feet, they don't say what type, just #6, and they don't offer caution about voltage drop. Also, in passing, while looking at these youtube shows, I saw a open telsa charger and it had pigtailed, what, # 4 copper, now that will put the worry in everyones head about correct wire size.
@@ervincrafford3048 You’re correct. I fixated on whether or not nm-b is allowable and neglected to mention that he’ll need to upsize since we can only use the 60° column for that wire type. Always calculate voltage drop, use the correct temperature column for the wiring type, and always torque your connections to spec. Heavy continuous duty loads are no joke. With that said, this charger will monitor wire connection temperatures and drop the charge rate as a fail safe should someone make this mistake in an install. One can also go into the settings web page for the charger and tell it to use a lower charge rate to be within code for continuous duty loads.
If anyone is considering installing a Tesla home charger: PLEASE READ THE MANUAL! My comments are to your viewers that believe the 60 amp breaker should be a GFCI. The Tesla manual says: DO NOT install a GFCI breaker. As you know, the Tesla charger already has one built in. Also, the manual says External disconnect switches are neither required nor recommended. You did a great job with this video.
I just commented on another video for this installation that had many electrical code violations. I am an electrical contractor with 36 years of experience and 23 years in business. I want you to know I am very pleased with your tutorial. Good Job!!
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback! Most of the time it's, "why didn't you do this," or "you did this wrong," so I like hearing these comments from time to time!
If so then u know for a 60amp breaker u need number 4 gauge wire.
@@terpcraigcali6717 shut up
@@terpcraigcali6717 #6 thhn at 75 degrees is good for 65 amps. # 6 romex ( 60 degree table) is good for 55 amps. you can put 6 romex on a 60 as long as your load does not exceed 55 amps. I have never been called for putting 6-2 on a 60.
Nobody cares. Going around criticizing other peoples videos like you’re the judge. Make your own video if you’re so good
IMHO, this is one of the best DIY tech tutorial video in the history of TH-cam (and I watch A LOT). Other DIY TH-camrs talk too much, beat around the bush, too many dad jokes, etc. but yours gets to straight to the point and details quickly with the right amount of humor, organized, and the BOM.
One thing I would add is, if installing a subpanel in the process, one should always double check the wire gauge going into the main panel can handle the new load, main panel’s max current rating, main breaker’s capacity, and correct wire gauge going from main to sub (this can change depending on various factors including distance from main to sub, max current usage, wire material/type)
27 years of industrial 480v III phase experience here. You did a phenomenal home wiring demonstration for this install.
For all those who want to wire in a home air compressor outlet and or a home use welder outlet. This is the same process. This demonstrates the safe and correct way to wire in an 240v outlet.
Thank you for the feedback!!
Landing the breaker wires first is really not safe especially if the line side is further down from the load side , it is a good practice to land the load side first then the line side last just in case someone accidentally turns the breaker or switch on , it’s always a good practice. ✌🏽
I watched about 10 of these and yours was the most informative and helpful. Small things like mentioning the brand of your panel to match with the breaker you're buying. Most people don't realize these things when reading the Tesla manual and trying to do it themselves.
Some inspectors will fail you if you don't match the breaker brand to the brand of your box. Good info indeed.
@@taylorlightfoot or some time the madafookrs.wont fit lol lil fyi
What about mentioning the terminal screws r supposed to tighten to a specific torque ?
Your the man. I’m not an electrician but have done many tasks at home. You just allowed me to give my wife a Tesla charger for home. Thanks awesome video.
Good info. I appreciate you leaving in the part where you had to remove the charger base, run the conduit, then reinstall the base. Many people would have edited that out.
Thanks, Brian! This video was super helpful! I’m converting a NEMA 1450 outlet - I replaced the recessed 2 gang residential (plastic) box where the outlet was installed with a surface mounted steel box. I’m mounting the Tesla wall charger above the box. Both are secured to a 3/4” piece of ply wood.
A couple of lessons learned:
* the 3/4” conduit coming out of the steel box does NOT line up with the hole at the bottom of the Tesla wall charger. The Tesla wall charger’s hole is slightly further away from the wall than the EMT I had coming out of the steel box.
* I don’t normally work with high voltage, and my wire cutters were not sufficient to cut the wires (I believe it’s 2 gauge). Need to go to Home Depot and pick up bigger wire cutters.
* I was torn about using the steel box vs going directly into the back of the Tesla wall charger. I decided on the steel box because it provides me an easy way to take the Tesla wall charger with me and wire nut the wires in the box if we ever move.
* This was a 4” steel box. If I did it again, I’d use a larger box.
Glad it was helpful! Indeed, cutting the wire is difficult. Try to avoid scoring the copper if you can as another person mentioned. The box is a good idea. I'm in the process of selling my home and being able to easily disconnect it and take it with me is turning out to be a huge advantage now.
Excellent video for anyone planning to install the Tesla level 2 connector/charger. Even for those of us who have done lots of wiring, it addresses the issues specific to the Tesla charger, ie power inlets, connections, assembly of faceplate, etc. Well done!
NICE!! Thanks for covering all the bases! I'm also not an electrician, so when I realized I'd need to crack into my breaker box for this install, I got a little nervous. Your video was in-depth and broken down into good, plain english, lehman's terms. You made everything totally easy to understand and gave me the confidence to tackle this project on my own! I like that you've got some good validating comments from experienced electricians in here too! Great job!
You did a good video. I learned some from you and learned some from others. I liked yours because of your DIY comments. I DIY'd my M3P with XPEL PPF stealth satin. It's not a pro job but have had many compliments. Took me a month lol. I totally get your DIY comments. Thanks for the video.
Electrician here
One thing, please use a level when bending conduit. Klein has a really good level for conduit bending. When you were remounting the charger, putting a level on the longer part of that 90 would have been a good way to make sure your conduit is dead on. It also needs a means of support too. Might want to slap a 3/4" one hole strap in the middle of that pipe.
NEVER, NEVER, NEVER STRIP WIRES WITH HAND TOOLS, ESPECIALLY STRANDED (THHN)! Using side cutters or lineman's pliers could kink, or fray the wire. Use a utility knife when stripping larger gauge wires. Use strippers for any gauge smaller than 10AWG.
Another thing safety wise, NEVER use a non contact voltage tester when testing to see if a circuit is off, especially a sub panel. We call those widow makers. You need to use a multimeter to check to see if the circuit is indeed off. There's a lot of videos on how to properly use a multimeter, and don't cheap out on them. Get a good one. I personally use a Fluke T5 600. That model is easy to use, and perfect for home projects as the settings read both AC and DC. Fluke is a highly trusted brand among electricians. You don't want to cheap out on a multimeter. It's a life saving device.
Other than those little things, you do great work! The bend looked great with it being eyeballed. You knew and eliminated the risks. For fucks sake, I saw a guy on here put a metal fish tape in a live panel doing the exact same job you did. KEEP IT UP!!!
Richard that's great feedback that will be very helpful on my next project. THANK YOU for keeping it clear and constructive.
Anytime! I'm always down to help, and add a few tips to save someone's life haha. Keep up the good work.
And please do the wiring termination in the breaker last , terminate wires in the wall charger first then the breaker , for safety. ✌🏽
Dumb question but if your box is "sunk" into the drywall can you come out of the knockout and through the drywall to conduit? Or does it have to be Romex? Tyia can't wait to get my model 3
This video was very helpful and great I love the way that you not only took your time but shoulder step by steps on ways of doing everything properly. I also love the bloopers at the end that was a great touch and shows great characteristics and that were human thank you and have a blessing.
Great video! I just ordered my Tesla and I will for sure be referencing back to this to install my charger!
Great video! Why find studs? Cant you just use drywall anchors for this weight?
Another Blooper could be when you finished as you was flipping the breakers on you were standing back hoping you wouldn’t see sparks! Job well done, Thanks
You may not be an electrician but you’re doing a great job. Very impressed sir!
Thank you for your help! Your video helped me safely install the wall charger after ages of planning. So happy to have it done.
You shouldn't stand directly in front of the panel when turning on breakers you just installed, incase of anything you just installed goes wrong, the breaker(s) could cause an arc flash and in result burn you or even kill you. Its always taught to use your non dominant hand and stand beside the panel and not in front of it incase it does blow up. Just a tip from an electrician.
Julian I appreciate the tips! That'll be helpful for future projects.
Thank you. Both of y’all lol.
Besides standing to one side you should ALWAYS take in a deep breath & hold it whole turning all circuit breakers and safety switches on & off. In the event if an Arc flash you would not inhale up to the 10,000 degrees into & severely burning your lungs. Common sense but took me over 30 as an industrial electrician to learn this.
You should actually use a multimeter to check for voltage in the panel instead of a tester. The tester has a minimum for it to actually detect anything and sometimes circuits can be backfed.
Torque driver is really important, especially for DIYers who do not have experience. 50 in-lb is really really really tight. Not secured connections could cause fire.
Considering diameter of your screw driver and face expression while you were tightening, you only applied 27.5 in-lb.
@CookiePepper - I would agree looking back on it now. Any brand of torque driver you'd recommend?
love the bloopers dude. great work coming from a journeyman electrician.
Good video, you're a natural. Good for you for using what looks like the THHN wiring which is required by code for the 60 amp circuit.
Thank you Tim! I appreciate the feedback. What Tesla are you deciding on getting or have bought?
@@BrianFischer I have a Model Y coming in 2 weeks but they keep pushing it back a day so if I use an integer function it may be 2 months 😆. It says 16-19th . LR white, black wheels, and hitch.
🤔 just found out they are deleting the passenger lumbar support. BMW and others are too because of part shortages.
THHN does not mean 60amp, it means it is not approved for wet locations and 90c ampacity rating can be used
@@carlosmesa5077 find another trade. painting maybe? or drywall?
Thank you so much for this video!!! Helped give me the confidence to finish taking out my old Gen 1 and put in a Gen 3. Took all the mystery out.
clear instruction, clear pictures. I understand more clearly how to do on my own. I would do it my self
I've seen so many of these install videos, I feel I could do it myself.... but I'm still having an electrician do it. lol. Good vid.
I have watched other videos about this. And the white wire is very confusing. Your videos about the ground wire are simple and to the point no fuss. Just make sure it does not go to the white bus bar but the ground bus bar.
Nice video, to save people money, you don't need to use 6awg Cooper ground wire. You can use 10awg copper
If you are using a 60 amp breaker or circuit, are you not required to use 4 guage wiring even if that is a short run? 6 guage wires are only rated to handle a max of 55 amps.
#6 line and #10 ground, but it’s wrong how he installed.
Nice video. When working with stranded wire, tighten, loosen, tighten.
Tks! You made it very easy for me to connect mine. Very CLEAR and understandable.
Ow by the way the Best installation video anyone has done on the Internet for The gen 3
Excellent video covering almost everything
I watched this again as I'm moving and reinstalling the charger at my new location. I wish I could give you another 'like'
If I get a 50a gfci for the house, do I install another one in the detached garage sub panel?
What are the benefits of the metal conduit vs the gray PVC pipe? I see most installations going for metal while PVC seems easier to work with. Thanks
Apart from the obvious differences - durability, ease of working with, cost, etc. I couldn't tell you. However, given the amps that will be running through this wire, I wouldn't be using PVC. There's a significant amount of power, hence why I used metal. Local codes may require/recommend it too.
@@BrianFischer if the high amps could damage the PVC pipe, I think it would melt the plastic coating on the wire first.
Thanks for the awesome video! How many wires required total 3 or 4? I plan to put on conduit can I use the ground wire smaller one and the rest 6 gauge?
The way you did the wiring you risk burning down the house. You can avoid such a risk by torquing down the wire connections on the wall charger and breaker. Both units provide their torquing requirements. Since you are using stranded wire you need to torque the wire , back off and torque again. Do this three times to get the wires to spread for the best connection.
Thanks for the commentary. I added an addition back in June in the pinned comment to advise people to use a torque screwdriver.
Just wondering... So you used 6AWG THHN two Reds and also 6AWG THHN for Green ground wires?
Correct, the grounds probably didn't need to be that thick.
As a future Tesla owner, thanks for making this video. I'm planning to tackle this project in the next few weeks and I'm kind of nervous as I've never done electrical work at high current/voltage.
How'd it go?
Excelent instructions video. Thanks Brian.
Nice work Brian!! Great info, very clear and informative!
Thank you for sharing.
Do I really need to do the loop that Tesla has in it's instruction when connecting the wires to the charger connector? My installation is going to be indoors in the garage. Wiring is not long enough to loop around, but it's more than sufficient to do a direct connection. Thanks.
i have 150 amp panel. will i need to upgrade or can i still use same panel? if not for wall installer can i go with standard nema 14-50 instead?
Very Nice Sir! Now I know I only need 6/2 and not 6/3 cable for wall charger.
You need to torque the connectors on the wall unit to 50 inlbs. Very important. Requires a torque screw driver. Never use two wires of the same color.
Why not use wires of the same color? Where in the code says you can’t? Unless if it’s a neutral
Nice job Brian. I might add that you leave the texted overlay comments on a bit longer. I did see about using the torque wrench (it flashed by) but more on this would be good. You torque both the breaker wires and the outlet wires
Great video, I feel a lot better about installing the charger myself now!
your video are very helpful, my tesla charger install by previous owner are wired exact the way in your video, but my ev is not a Tesla so i need to convert it into 14-50 plug, can it be done?
Yes, the wiring will likely be the same coming out of the box. Instead of going to a charger, they'll go to the plug. Search around for a 220v Nema 14-50 diagram and it'll show you.
14-50 requires a neutral wire; Tesla chargers do not require this.
Your situation depends on whether your new charger requires a neutral and if there's a neutral wire available in your current install.
One thing is definite - if you don't have a neutral wire, you should **not** install a 14-50 socket.
14-50 outlets require a neutral to be code compliant. Most likely the old Tesla wiring lacks a neutral because it's not needed for car charging. A code compliant method if you do not have a neutral wire would be to install a 6-50 outlet instead and replace the plug on your non Tesla charger with a 6-50 plug.
What size wire did you use to power you sub panel from your main box? What size amp is your sub panel? Thanks for any info.
Wow! You are a genius!!! Thank you for such an informative video!!!
Hey buddy. It's a great video. I installed a 40 amps breaker for my tesla. Everything connect correctly. But why when I plug to change work well but for a few minute the breaker jump shut. I have only 100 amps panel. Is that why. Please help
My Tesla can pull, at max, 48 amps. When you plug in, try adjusting the amps the car is pulling. You can see it on the screen in the car, likely labeled 48A, adjust it down to around 30 amps.
My guess is your car is pulling 40+ amps, easily tripping the 40A breaker.
Great video. Keep making more. It’ll be worth it. If not for the $$$ do it to have your kid be able to go see them. And they are helpful to the community.
Hello, thanks for the video very informative. Can you let me know what reference you used to get the requirement of 200amp service? I cant find it in the documentation. Thanks.
That's my rough estimate. Most newer-ish homes have 200 amp service. If this is pulling even 30-40 amps to charge the car on house's 100 amp breaker, that doesn't leave a lot of room for everything else. Especially if you consider it's the middle of summer, the AC is blasting, the clothes dryer is running, etc. etc. it'd be easy to trip the whole house's breaker.
Is 30 amps breaker ok for wall connector
30 amps will be fine as long as you don't try to pull more than ~24 amps
I liked your video, my question is, I need to run the wire length of 120 feet to reach my car garage from the main panel. what type of wire and circuit breaker and you recommend for this tesla wall charger project thank you
I recommend asking an electrician for that one.
Everywhere I look it says you need a 4 guage wire for a 60 amp breaker not a 6 guage. Any explanation on that?
my panel has a 150 amp service ist enough to run a 60 amp with the tesla wall connector? and my house has central ac washer & dryer & electric stove
Hello Brian! I just installed Tesla wall charger, gen3, and i was able to cjarge my model 3 with 48A, but then, like 15 mins later, my circuit breaker went down, and charging stopped. I turned it on, and it charged again with 48A, but then i lowered it 32A because i just looked at the circuit breaker, and it says 40A.
Now i have no idea what to do. Please give some advice to me to be able to charge mine with 48A.
1. Call an electrician.
You can't pull 48A from a 40A breaker. You need a 60A breaker to safely run 48A.
I can't tell you if it's okay to replace the 40A breaker with a 60A breaker without being at your home and looking at your panel. That's why I say to call an electrician.
I'm assuming you're in the USA.
@@BrianFischer yes that's correct!!
For some reason, my wall connector automatically reads and sends 48A juice into my car. But then my 40A circuit breaker can't handle it, obviously, and stop charging.
If my home panel don’t have 200amp main kill switch then I can’t do that exact install?
awesome video dude - looked at some real dross b4 I found this one - gr8 job - demonstrating that Tesla owners can actually be real hands on useful practical people.... although I think we might be in the minority based on the videos I have watched......I've subscribed - cheers
Fantastic explanation! Wow! Truly. great job.
This is exactly what I was looking for, thanks!
Hi Brian, I had issue my wall connector. All green lights are on (I use bare as the ground wire) when I turn on the breaker. ( I didn’t connect to wifi). Then, a couple of hours later, no lights are on. I tried turn off the breaker and hold the button for 5 seconds. Still not working. I also tried to plugging to my Tesla and the warning said check the supply (no power). I used 6AWG wire and 60amp standard circuit breaker.
Have you tried connecting it to Wifi to see if resolves the issue? My $0.02 would be to understand what changed within those couple of hours where it kicked off.
This charger only needs a bond wire? Not a neutral wire.? Mine are not tied together in my panel. Seems like best practice would call for a neutral over a bond for quick tripping in case faults.
False. The Tesla Wall Connector does not use a neutral. Two hots and a ground. Neutral is always connected to ground in the main breaker.
Awesome job man. Love your attention to detail. Installing this monday and feel way better about it
Glad I could help! That's the goal!
can you make a video on how to safely disconnect one (for people moving homes). thx!
Don't they sell the 90 degree corners at home depot, so no bender needed ?
Best video I’ve seen on this
Hey Brian,
I would like to know if I need the 6 gauge ground wire or if it can be any gauge ground? I know the other 2 got wires need to be 6 gauge. Thanks!
I used 6 GA. You may be able to use something thinner, but I don't know that for sure, nor know what would be acceptable.
Due to continuous load, don't use anything smaller. The smaller wires will heat up and degrade the insulation, which might cause a fire.
@@carlomiranda3799 For anyone coming along later to read this...the ground can be #10 per code.
Very useful video …you did cover covered everything imo.
A lot of people have a problem figuring out wire ampacity. At about time 9:28 you talked about number 6 wire and 60 amps.
Yes the wire, like thhn, might have a high temperature rating and high amp capacity.....90 degrees c and 75 amps (nec section 310) however the circuit smpacity is sized for the weakest part....
Nec 110.14 deals with terminal connections. 100 Amp is the break over point between 60 degrees c and 75 degrees c. Yes, I am saying that (unless other wise labeled) your wire connection point (terminal) on your breaker puts you in the 60 degree column and that number 6 thhn wire rating is dropped to 55 amps.
Hope that helps.
Keith - It sounds like you know what you are talking about here, but for others who might be reading can you explain this in layman's terms?
Great video. Did you have to pull a permit for this in your area?
I did not get any permit.
Hi can you tell how to find out how many amp we have in the sub panel ?
It's whatever you set it as. If it was there when you purchased your residence, look at breaker switch that leads to the sub panel.
This is prescribed electrical work. Here in NZ. If the home owner completed prescribed electrical work then they can be fined. What was your Earth loop Impedance test results and what are the RCD test tripping times ? Dont worry, I don't expect you to answer those questions... Just trying to get my point across. If you get a fire and there is no electrical certification then no insurance.
That is why I say check your local laws. Based on my location, a PFC test is not required, nor is a measurement of the trip time for a RCD.
@@BrianFischer I guess our electrical is strict as we are 230v single Phase. If an electrician here fills out a certificate and does not complete the necessary tests the Electrical workers registration board can fine and remove your practicing license, = go hungry. Quite a big deal.
Hi Why this connection doesn't require a neutral wire? thanks
I don't have the background or expertise to explain it properly, so look at the video below. This is what I watched prior to installing.
th-cam.com/video/fJeRabV5hNU/w-d-xo.html
He made it look way to easy !
Finally someone said what I need to get to install the charger….. petter than paying $650 for a technician
Until your house burns down and insurance denies the payout because it was installed without a permit.
nice job and video with instructions.
Excellent video; thanks for putting it up! Thumbs up!!
What size of conduit do you use?
3/4"
Hi, do you know if it's possible to replace a short cable with a long cable on the wall connector? I'm referring to the thick main cable that goes from the body of the unit and plugs into the car.
Possible? Likely. Safe? Probably Not. Do I know how? No.
Hello Brian we had an electrician Connect our Gen 3 charger up to the garage and when we switch it on it comes up with a solid Red light saying the Wi-Fi is not connected do you know the fix for this problem I can’t seem to get Tesla to help me thanks man if you have heard of this before and could get back to me with some idea of what The electrician has done wrong our box where the wires go is for three-phase as well but you can wire it as one phase I am wondering if he put the wires in the wrong spot which makes the Wi-Fi not work we definitely have Wi-Fi from the house to that point full bars
Hi Brian, I just bought a Tesla Charger to install. How do I get you the credit for the referral so you can get the bonus points? I may also buy a Model Y next week. Cheers, Paul
In the UK we have to use a PEN device between consumer unit and charger... Is that not necessary for you guys??
Thank you for an incredible job!
What’s with all the pieces of wood? Just mount it directly on the drywall or better yet flash mount it.
A well done video, very informative.
Question, i live in a condo and my girlfriend has a house, i stay at her place on the weekends and work weekends at a job that’s about 30 miles away so 60 miles or so round trip. I was thinking of charging in the outlet outside of the front part of the house. Is that possible? What if it rains will the outlet that’s on the wall be safe from the rain if my car and the chargers are out in the elements?
Check the owner's manual. Based on my experience, I haven't had an issue with charging in the rain.
@@BrianFischer I appreciate it, I’ll do that and double check. I also found a $10 waterproof plastic outdoor cover to put over the outlet just to be extra safe
Hi folks, if in the UK doing this is illegal if not a registered qualified electrician. For more info consult Part P of the UK Building Regulations. We are not allowed to DIY a new radial circuit from the Consumer Unit (aka fuse panel in the US). It's not just voltage and frequency that is different, how the electricity is brought into the property, how protective conductors are installed and how circuits are protected are all different from US practice. Even how connections are made can be different. When you come to sell your house you will need the relevant certificates issued by your electrician to confirm the installation has been correctly installed and tested.
Luckily in the US (most states) we have more freedom.
Hello, should I used 6 wire or 4 wire for a 60 Amp ????
You'll want to use 4. The 6 will limit what you can accomplish with the wall Connector as it can't take the contentious load and you'll need to charge at a lower speed.
Depends on the length (voltage drop) but 4AWG should be used.
Brian,
Nice work, just curious on your wire size. Why did you use #6 wire (ampacity rating is 55A), instead of #4 wire (ampacity rating 85A)?
Do you know if there is an adapter to make the wall charger we already have for our Leaf work with the Tesla? I don't want to pay for another EV charger if don't have to.
The Leaf uses the universal J1772 connector. I believe this adapter comes with a Tesla but they have made some changes recently with what's included. If not you can buy it separately in the Tesla online store.
I built a brand new house and had an electrician put this in before drywall was in. But I still watched this entire video lol
I bet he watched my video 😆
Hi, thank you for your video. I am looking into installing the Tesla Charger. I cut through a section of drywall in my garage near the main load center. The wall is filled with fiberglass insulation between the studs. I planned on using ROMEX 6/3 as you did. The insulation for the ROMEX is NM-B. Should I use another cable insulation type for Code/safety concerns?
Romex/NM-B is fine so long as it's inside the wall and you cover it back up with drywall and you use the rear cable entry method. The wire needs to be protected from physical damage end to end. If you are running long distances or your walls are exposed to extreme temperatures, you might need to upsize the wire to the next biggest size. Consult a voltage drop calculator online to figure out gauge size required for the length you plan to run the wire.
@@taylorlightfoot People, people, please, what is the amps of 6/3 romex? If you are trying to get 48 amps out of your wall charger, it will not work. TH-cam after youtube shows so called electricans with years of experience running 6/3 romex and in 90% never mention that this circuit is continuous, meaning that it will be running for more than 3 hours. If continous, the wire size has to sized 125% larger that the highest amp draw of the charger. 6/3 romex: 55 amps, 48 amps draw of charger, 48 amps times 125% is 60 amps. The reason for the 55 amps on the 6/3 romex is, the temperature rating is in the 60 degree column. You would have to use 6/3 with ground SER copper, which is durn hard to find, to be legal, and that is not taking into account for voltage drop of a long run. Telsa says you can run #6 copper 150 feet, they don't say what type, just #6, and they don't offer caution about voltage drop. Also, in passing, while looking at these youtube shows, I saw a open telsa charger and it had pigtailed, what, # 4 copper, now that will put the worry in everyones head about correct wire size.
@@ervincrafford3048 You’re correct. I fixated on whether or not nm-b is allowable and neglected to mention that he’ll need to upsize since we can only use the 60° column for that wire type.
Always calculate voltage drop, use the correct temperature column for the wiring type, and always torque your connections to spec. Heavy continuous duty loads are no joke.
With that said, this charger will monitor wire connection temperatures and drop the charge rate as a fail safe should someone make this mistake in an install. One can also go into the settings web page for the charger and tell it to use a lower charge rate to be within code for continuous duty loads.
Thank you for all your information
What is your cost please?
Great video. Thanks for posting!
Clean install. Good work